How to make an excellent sliding table to save space. Sliding table with your own hands How to make a sliding table with your own hands

Collecting cabinet furniture is a pleasure. All costs pale in front of the ease of use of items made "for themselves." We invite you to study the common designs of folding dining tables, as well as the technique of assembling them, and you will be able to make a folding dining table with your own hands.

What are we going to make

The main advantage of folding tables is their mobility, and for this they must be light. Exactly to the extent that the housewife will cope with their transformation and movement. It is unlikely that a table made of solid wood will be easy to lift, and with small dimensions such material is completely inappropriate.

It is supposed to use light and thin chipboard strips of factory or self-cut to create the base of the table.

For countertops, the choice is almost unlimited. You may prefer conventional particle boards, but also consider MDF panels, furniture boards or 40 mm chipboard kitchen worktops with acrylic or vinyl coating. However, keep in mind that for most of these materials, the wrong side is different from the front, it simply does not withstand normal operating loads. This moment can be decisive in some table designs.

Swivel, sliding or classic "book"

There are truly many ways to transform the countertop. The simplest and most familiar of them is used in a table-cabinet, which has two lifting tabletops on piano hinges and swivel legs as a support for them. The table is not always convenient: the person sitting at the central section simply has nowhere to put his knees, moreover, when unfolding it, he often has to move and turn. The aesthetic value of such furniture is almost zero, but the "book" is the most budgetary version of the table.

Sliding tables have a rigid frame with fixed legs. Only the tabletop undergoes transformation: it moves to the side to the middle of the frame, while the open part is covered by the second half, stored separately. Such tables are good in spacious dining rooms, the transformation is carried out in a few simple movements.

By the way, there are several layout options, for example, the edges of the tabletop can be moved with the insertion of the central segment. Or, for example, the tabletop can be folded in half on hidden mortise hinges and lean back onto the open part of the frame after shifting. Do not bypass the rotary structures, in which the tabletop does not move to the side, but rotates perpendicularly, after which it is complemented by the second half.

Making table legs

The legs for the "book" are assembled from three strips of chipboard. Two of them are fastened with the letter G on 60 mm confirmations. At the end of a 100 mm rail, for this, it is necessary to drill a through hole of 4 mm, expand it with a 6 mm drill to a depth of 70 mm, and then with a 10 mm drill to a depth of 60 mm. In other words, manually and gradually perform milling for a recessed confirmation.

To prevent the tabletop from swinging around, the leg is covered from the end with a bar 100 mm wide and fastened with 45 mm confirmations in three arbitrary places, hiding the traces of the previous fastening. This method of fastening is the least noticeable and most durable, but you can also use overlay corners, dowels or ties.

For a sliding table, legs from two chipboard strips folded perpendicularly are suitable. A rectangular frame is assembled between the legs of the same material, which fastens the base of the table. Another, more complicated option is to assemble square boxes from planks 84 mm wide and tighten them with confirmations. Such strict and discreet legs will suit most interior solutions, while providing good stability and allowing you to comfortably stretch your legs.

You can also use chrome pipes or turned products as legs for all types of tables.

The main frame is very simple

For sliding and rotary tables, the main frame is made of chipboard strips 120-200 mm wide. In general, the frame encircles the legs in a circle and hides the traces of the table top. Square legs can also be fastened not with an external belt, but with intermediate inserts. The upper ends of the parts must be flush; to give diagonal strength, it is possible to add jumpers inside the frame. The elements are fastened with furniture corners on the inside.

The total length of the base should be 40-50% less than the length of the tabletop when unfolded. The width is chosen so that the overhang of the tabletop along the edges is at least 100-150 mm.

When assembling the base under the "book", the main dimensions have a stricter relationship. The central segment of the table top determines the overall width of the table, which should be 20-25 cm less than the length of the side wings. That, in turn, should be less than the height of the table by about 50 mm. Since the legs are hidden inside the base when the table is assembled, its minimum width when folded is at least 300 mm.

The base itself is assembled in the shape of the letter P and reinforced with one crossbar 400 mm wide in the center on the edge. It is possible to fasten from the inside with furniture corners, but in this case it is better to prefer confirmations. The leg loops are attached no closer than 50 mm to the edge of the side walls.

Hidden storage sections

Often the inner space of the base of the table is used to store dishes or household chemicals. The easiest way to organize a storage space is inside a folding "book". The width of the central segment must be increased by 200-250 mm and several horizontal shelves should be used instead of one vertical crossbar. It is also possible with a blind lining of the inner box and the installation of doors on the ends of the base.

Due to the complex shape of the legs, the door will be 100 mm wider than the box on both sides, so it is important to remember one thing: the handle on the door is installed on the side where the table leg is in the folded state. Accordingly, under different wings, the direction of opening the doors and the location of the legs should be opposite.

In sliding tables for arranging a niche, it is enough to knock out the frame from below with a solid sheet of MDF and add a few cross bars to secure the bottom more firmly. Another option is to use frame strips up to 400 mm wide and fasten the base along the center. Drawers can be installed in the formed niches on full extension rails.

Countertop options

The tabletop for the “book” must be assembled upside down, laying out the sheets of chipboard on the floor and carefully aligning them. The wings are connected to the central section with piano hinges, then drilling is performed for dowels for fixing to the ends of the base. Additionally, it is necessary to provide limiters in the center of each wing so that the leg does not develop from accidental movement of the foot.

The most versatile option for mounting the table top of sliding tables is on drawer rails. To do this, the table top or its halves are complemented by a pair of longitudinal ribs, the distance between which is 20 mm greater than the width of the base body. The guides can be used as regular or full extension, their length must be comparable to the overhang of the tabletop in the unfolded state. This installation allows you to maximize the size of the unfolded table, at the same time, strength and stability do not deteriorate.

If the tabletop is assembled from two halves, they can be folded with their front surfaces to each other and embedded hidden loops into the ends. With this option, the front surface of the unfolded tabletop always remains intact, that is, its individual parts will not have varying degrees of wear.

Metal dowels at the ends of different segments of the tabletops are also very useful, which ensures greater solidity and eliminates the formation of bumpers and drops.

• Device type
• Materials and fixings
• The size of the parts of the sliding table
• Frame and leg design
• Preparation of countertop components
• Assembling a sliding dining item

The dining table is considered one of the most necessary attributes in a kitchen or dining room. The size of the table is calculated based on the number of people using it and the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which it will be placed.

To date, the modern furniture industry offers many different options for dining tables, but the most common model is the type of table with a sliding top. This is primarily due to the fact that such a table fits almost any small room. Its versatility allows you to save a significant amount of usable space in the kitchen or dining room. The sliding table is quite convenient in operation, it can be installed in any part of the room.

Despite the technological features, the sliding table type has a simple design. Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to purchase ready-made dining furniture, you can make a sliding type of table with your own hands. To do this, it is not necessary to have professional skills, it is enough to understand a little carpentry.

Device type

At the moment, the furniture market offers tables with special devices that require only the rotation of the desired handle for instant and independent transformation. Such designs are considered advanced, most often they have a high cost. Therefore, the average consumer cannot always afford high-tech furniture.

It is not possible to assemble an attribute of furniture with such a mechanism at home, but on the other hand, you can independently design a sliding-type dining table of a simpler type. The main factor in the discomfort during the operation of such tables is the absence of any mechanism that is responsible for shifting parts of the table top. In Soviet times, they did not pay much attention to this, therefore, almost all elements of the furniture of the last century were put forward and retracted by human effort.

To simplify the design, while adding convenience to it when using it, you will need to equip the sliding table with a special mechanism.

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Materials and fixings

The production of the dining table will be carried out on the basis of a classic design, which involves its combination with some modern elements.

For manufacturing, you will need the following materials, accessories and tools:

1. A small bar for table legs with a section of 4 × 4 cm (the height of the dining table is about 73 cm, so you will need to make 4 legs 71 cm long).
2. For the base, high-quality plywood with a layer thickness of 2 cm is used.
3. The tabletop and frame are made of laminated boards of the chipboard type, the thickness of which must be at least 1.8 cm.
4. Self-tapping wood screws 4×50 mm.
5. Self-tapping screws 4×16 mm.
6. Carpentry dowels 8 × 40 mm in size.
7. Joiner's corners made of iron for self-tapping screws measuring 3 × 3 cm.
8. Adhesive type edge in the color of the laminated worktop.
9. Sandpaper or grinder.
10. Construction adhesive for gluing dowels.
11. Electric drill with drills with a diameter of 8-10 mm.
12. Household iron.
13. Extended set of carpentry tools.
14. Scissors or construction knife.
15. Roulette for measuring constituent elements.
16. High-quality wood paint and varnish to cover the outer parts of the table.

The main innovative idea in the Soviet-style sliding table is the presence of a roll-out mechanism, which is most often used in the manufacture of drawers.

Synchronous mechanism with stopper for frameless tables with fastening to the tabletop.

For a particular table, two guides will be enough, the length of which should be about 30 cm. In any case, the mount is hidden under the tabletop, so the color and condition of the hardware do not matter.

Sawing components from laminated chipboard and plywood must be uniform, accurate and highly accurate. Therefore, it is best to entrust this work to a skilled worker with a special saw used in furniture production.

The total size of the dining table, excluding height, is 90×70 cm in the assembled position and 130×70 cm in the extended position. This size will be enough to seat 8-12 people at the table in free seating.

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The size of the parts of the sliding table

The components of the table in question will have the following dimensions:

• the tabletop consists of two parts, the size of each is 45 × 70 cm;
• the dismantled tabletop element has a size of 40 × 70 cm;
• side parts for boxes under the table should be 42 × 12 cm each (4 pieces in total);
• the end elements of the boxes under the table have a size of 60 × 12 cm (2 pieces in total).

The value of the components on a plywood base:

• the end elements of the frame and the crossbar, on which the dismantled part of the table is placed in the assembled form, have a size of 50 × 12 cm each (4 pieces in total);
• the side parts of the frame have a size of 83 × 12 cm each (2 pieces in total).

It is necessary to pay special attention to the finish of each element, as they will always be in sight. If the table will be placed indoors, then it will not require a special moisture-resistant coating. But splinters still need to be removed, so the best solution is to do a good sanding before varnishing the parts. After identifying roughness, you need to process the surface with emery and varnish it again.

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Frame and leg design

The end elements and the crossbar are placed in the middle of the side parts of the frame. The first 2 parts should be fixed parallel to the edges of the side parts, the second 2 parts are located almost in the very center of the formed frame parallel to the bottom edge. The interval between the parts should be approximately 10-12 cm. The dismantled part of the countertop will be conveniently located on the formed structure, but to pull it out, you will need to slightly tilt one of the sides. For this reason, it is necessary to make the interval between the crossbars as small as possible.

The legs are inserted into the corner of the frame and twist right through it from the outside. This is done using self-tapping screws measuring 4x50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to place iron corners on the surface of the frame and legs. At this stage, it is important to check the reliability of the design and the uniformity of the location of each of the legs, otherwise the table will swing. If you find any deviations, you can immediately correct their height.

The appearance of sliding furniture used to be associated with a small area of ​​​​apartments. And today, more and more often, a rational approach is used in the arrangement of premises: it is not necessary to have a large table in the house or office, you can get by with a smaller product. But capacious tables become necessary during the reception of delegations and guests. What to do? The answer to such a request are tables of different styles made of wood, plastic, metal, glass, equipped with various transformation mechanisms. Such furniture is able to double or even triple the usable area of ​​the countertop.

Despite the large number of proposals, there is a desire to make a round, oval or rectangular sliding table with your own hands. This is due to objective advantages:

• You can choose the dimensions of the product yourself.
• The layout mechanism depends on the desire of the owner.
• Independent choice of material, color, design.
• Saving money.

Drawings, photographs and a description of the work from the masters will simplify the process.

Technical solutions refute stereotypes. The coffee table in the living room, thanks to the installation of a special mechanism, will provide a comfortable place for gatherings with friends. The useful area of ​​the countertop will increase by 2 times.

In our version, the folded table has the following dimensions:

• width - 75 cm,
• length - 90 cm,
• height - 46 cm;

unfolded:

• width - 150 cm,
• length - 90 cm,
• height - 78 cm.

Individual production allows you to change the size of the product, and, accordingly, its parts at the request of the master. A sliding table can be made of wood, but making it yourself will be time-consuming. The use of chipboard will greatly simplify the task.

The sliding mechanism is available in two versions:

• two single for symmetrical installation;

• double.

Keep in mind that a round table cannot be made foldable with this type of fixture.

If you like to create such structures with your own hands, purchase parts from which you can make two layout mechanisms.

• tube 20x20 cm - 4 linear meters;
• tube 50x25 cm - 1.2 p. m;
• metal strip. - 1 p. m;
• 6 bolts M8x120;
• 2 bolts M8x60;
• 2 bolts M8x50;
• 8 bolts M4x20;
• 26 nuts M8;
• 24 washers 30x8;
• 12 intersection screeds;
• 4 gas shock absorbers 120-140N.

The device and the connection points of the mechanisms can be understood by considering the diagram below.

Stock up on furniture fittings:

• eccentric coupler in the amount of 16 pieces;
• 32 confirmations;
• 32 self-tapping screws 30x4;
• 4 plastic double corners;
• 8 self-tapping screws 4x16;
• futorki D8 М6х13, 12 pieces in total;
• 2 bolts M6x30;
• 8 bolts M6x20;
• 4 bolts M6x15;
• 3 hinges;
• 4 furniture corners;
• edge tape.

You will also need tools: a jigsaw, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a key for confirmations.

From chipboard (25 mm) it is necessary to cut:

• 2 worktop panel blanks, 750x900 mm each;
• 2 panels 730x460 mm - the ends of the base of the table;
• 2 panels 730x150 mm - sidewalls of the box hiding the mechanism;
• 2 panels 680x730 mm - the bottom of the box;
• detail 730x730 mm - internal shelf (optional).

Cutting parts with your own hands must be done as accurately as possible, this will help to assemble the product easier, faster and better. If you have never made tables or cut wood-based materials before, contact a specialist who works with professional carpentry equipment.

Work description

1. Paste the ends of the blanks with melamine edging. This will give them a neat look and protect them from damage. The edge must be selected in the color of the base material.
2. We proceed to the connection of the sides and the bottom of the box with confirmations to accommodate the transformation mechanism.
3. Make symmetrical marks on opposite sides of the base cabinet to install an additional shelf. We fasten the shelf with confirmations: 2-3 pieces on each side. Try to ensure that the confirmations enter slowly into the middle of the chipboard, in this case the risk of damage to the integrity of the material is reduced.
4. Attach the drawer to the end legs using furniture corners. Reinforce with 1-2 confirmations by screwing them into the junction of the end of the table and the bottom of the box.
5. Connect the parts of the countertop with card loops.
6. Install the transformation mechanism in the prepared drawer.
7. Fasten the platforms of the mechanism with confirmations to the tabletop.

If you decide to make a table with your own hands with a single mechanism, then connect the first pair to the bottom of the tabletop, and fasten the other with a connecting panel (from the bottom side).

A large table is the dream of every hospitable hostess. After all, all his friends will fit behind him without any problems. The most popular is the traditional rectangular design, although round and oval tables have always been considered symbols of comfort and well-being.

Today, there are many transformation mechanisms for both rectangular and round tables. We offer to make a full-fledged dining table with your own hands with a tabletop size of 116x92 cm. After moving apart and installing an additional tab 42 cm wide, it will be transformed into a large place for a feast 158 ​​cm long.

What you need to create an oval table

• Pine boards of good quality (for countertops) meter length.
• 4 bars with a section of 75 × 75 mm, length 770 mm for legs. Their color should be similar to the boards.
• Joiner's glue.
• Lathe.
• Grinding machine with nozzles of different grain sizes.
• Electric drill.
• Clamps.
• Dowels.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Joiner's glue.
• Stain, varnish for wood.
• Roulette, level, pencil.

We collect the countertop with our own hands. Please refer to the detail drawings. If you want to make a rectangular or round table instead of an oval table, make your own changes.

• To correctly mark the shape of the legs, make markings using a template.
• The bars should be turned at low machine speeds (1500 rpm). Be extra careful when making balls. To avoid breakage, it is better to give the legs an oval shape in this place. You can also order this work from an experienced craftsman or buy finished products of the required parameters.

An oval-shaped folding kitchen table is perfect for those who like to dine with the whole family and receive guests from time to time. It's pretty easy to do it yourself. Self-made furniture is distinguished by original design and the ability to take into account individual needs, due to the characteristics of the room and the taste of the owners of the house.

Why an oval table

An oval-shaped folding dining table is good because it has rounded corners. This avoids "unpleasant collisions" and is especially appreciated by those who have small children at home. The oval shape suggests the location of the table in the center of the room. However, if necessary, you can put such a table at the kitchen corner.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you must:

1. Determine the dimensions of the future table.
2. Make sketches and drawings of the design of the product and its individual parts.
3. The choice of material for countertops and supports.
4. Calculate the required amount of materials.
5. Purchase materials, fasteners and accessories.

Determining the size and shape of the table

The size of the product depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen and the number of people that need to be placed at the table. The optimal solution for a medium-sized kitchen would be a folding dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm (folded), consisting of two parts with dimensions of 60 × 80 cm each.

It will be correct to draw a sketch of the future product on a scale, in order to understand what ratio of the width and length of the table will allow you to maintain a beautiful rounded shape even when unfolded, as well as a size suitable for a particular kitchen.

For a kitchen of this size, a folding oval dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm is suitable if you put it with a kitchenette. If you place the table in the center of the room, access to kitchen cabinets and household appliances will be difficult. When receiving guests, you can put it in the middle of the kitchen.

The optimal length of the dining table top section, for the convenient location of one person, is 60 cm. The sketch shows that a 120 × 80 cm sliding table is perfect for four to six people (six will fit behind it if you push the table to the center of the kitchen). In the unfolded form at such a table it will be possible to seat up to 8 people. If you need a folding dining table for more guests, you can increase the size of the insert or make two of the same.

Execution of drawings

It is necessary to complete the following drawings and sketches (option with a two-piece table top 60 × 80 cm and one insert 40 × 80 cm):

• drawing of the details of the main table top, to determine the desired shape of the table and the corresponding rounding radius;

Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 20 cm

Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 30 cm

Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 40 cm

• insert drawing 80x40 cm;
• sketch of the tabletop in extended form;
• for tables with a tsarga (underframe) a drawing of the details of the tsarga.

The specified dimensions of the drawer parts are suitable for a folding dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm in a shifted position. It is necessary to make two parts with dimensions of 80 × 12 cm and 40 × 12 cm.

Material selection

Folding kitchen table details:

• countertop and inserts to it;
• supports (legs);
• tsarga;
• edge (for tables made of chipboard and MDF);
• extension mechanism;
• countertop clamps;
• fasteners.

For the manufacture of a folding table top, you can use wood, chipboard, MDF, natural stone and glass. Chipboard and MDF can be either laminated or plastic coated. The thickness of the tabletop can be from 18 to 48 mm (sometimes more).

Natural stone is the most durable, moisture and heat resistant material. But this material has a significant disadvantage, this is a rather high cost. Alternatively, you can use a chipboard or MDF countertop, decorated with ceramic tiles.

When choosing the color and thickness of the countertop, it is imperative to take into account the design of the rest of the furnishings in the kitchen, especially the thickness and texture of the countertop of the kitchen set.

The legs can be made from the same material as the tabletop, or you can purchase ready-made metal supports. They are of two types: for tables with a frame and for frameless designs.

The drawer side can also be made from the same material as the countertop, or from any other material that is suitable in thickness and texture.

For processing slices of chipboard and MDF, edges are used:

The most budgetary and least practical option is the melamine edge, it is the thinnest and is a paper tape with a density of 120-130 g per square meter. m. Its thickness is 0.1 mm.

The PVC edge differs from it in greater thickness and wear resistance.

The ABS edge is made of plastic and is characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to external influences.

Acrylic edging is often referred to as 3D edging due to its "bulky" effect. This is the most advantageous, in terms of appearance, option.

PVC, ABS and acrylic edges have a thickness of 0.4 to 2 mm. Depending on the thickness of the countertop and other details of the product, a suitable edge width is selected, which ranges from 18 to 55 mm. On sale there are types of edges with an already applied adhesive layer.

There are three types of sliding mechanisms for folding tables according to the method of fastening:

• for barless tables;
• for internal fastening to the side;
• for external fastening to the king.

According to the method of expansion, there are two types of mechanisms: synchronous and non-synchronous. In the first case, the details of the tabletop are moved apart at the same time, in the second case, separately.

When buying, you need to take into account the length of the mechanism not extended and the maximum size of the inserts (these parameters should be indicated in the characteristics of the mechanism).

For a folding table without a frame measuring 120 × 80 cm in a shifted state with two inserts of 40 or 50 cm, a mechanism 98 cm long with a maximum insert size of 50 cm (48/980 / T2S) is suitable.

To fix the countertop, you will additionally need special locks-clamps. Their number depends on how many inserts the table will have.

Calculation of the necessary materials

Based on the completed drawings, you need to calculate:

• the total area of ​​all table parts made of wood, chipboard or MDF;
• edge footage, for tables made of chipboard and MDF.

For a table without a frame with a tabletop made of two pieces of chipboard measuring 60 × 80 cm and one insert 40 cm wide, you will need: 1.3 sq. m. Chipboard, 9 m edges (with a margin), 4 metal supports, sliding mechanism, 4 tabletop clamps, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Table making process

1. Cut out the details of the table according to the drawings and cut them out.
2. Glue the cut edges.
3. Assemble the table.
4. Finish finishing.

Tools:

• large ruler or tape measure;
• pencil;
• electric jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• belt grinder;
• drill;
• iron or building hair dryer.

cutting

Chipboard and MDF can be purchased in the form of sheets (boards) of a certain size. The minimum dimensions of a chipboard or MDF sheet are 244 x 120 cm. From the above calculation, it can be seen that for the manufacture of an oval sliding kitchen table measuring 120 x 80 cm (160 x 80 when extended), one such sheet will be needed.

Examples of cutting a chipboard sheet for an oval sliding kitchen table

The main tabletop will consist of two pieces 60x80 cm in size. In addition to it, there will be one piece 40x80 cm in size. The rest of the material can be used to make stools and as a result you will get a wonderful kitchen set.

You can cut out parts using a jigsaw, rounding is done with a milling machine.

edge banding

First you need to carefully treat all the sections with a sealant (silicone), let it dry, and then you can start gluing the edge. For this, an iron or a building hair dryer is used.

It is necessary to pre-clean the sections from wood dust. Then attach the edge so that it completely covers the cut (the width of the edge must be greater than the thickness of the countertop). Turn on the iron and set the "synthetics" mode. Lay newspaper between the iron and the cut and start heating the edge. After it starts to stick, smooth the finished area with a cloth and continue to iron with the iron. You need to smooth it until the edge cools down.

If the edge does not have its own adhesive layer, then any universal adhesive can be used. The cut surface must be smooth and dust-free. Glue must be applied to both the edge and the end and glued together, while smoothing with a roller or cloth. Instead of a cloth and a roller, you can use a wooden block covered with felt.

After completion of work, it is required to carefully check for fragments with a loose fit. Then you need to chip off the edge protruding beyond the edges, remove the remaining glue and sand the edges with sandpaper.

Better bonding can be achieved with a building hair dryer. A jet of air with a temperature of 200 degrees should be directed only to the adhesive layer. Well-heated glue should protrude from under the edge. Remove excess glue only after complete drying.

Table assembly

Assembly is performed in the following sequence:

• Fold the halves of the main countertop together.
• Attach a sliding mechanism to them.

• Install table brackets.

• Move the halves of the main tabletop and insert the removable part.
• Fasten the latches on the insert so that, when extended, their parts coincide with the corresponding parts of the main tabletop.

• Screw the legs to the table top.

To do this, on the reverse side of the countertop we apply markings with a pencil to determine the place of attachment of the legs. The optimal distance from the edge of the tabletop to the leg is 10 cm. On the beam connecting the center of the circle along which the tabletop was rounded with its edge, we retreat from the edge of the tabletop 13 cm (10 cm + 3 cm radius of the leg) and put a point. This point will coincide with the center of the support.

The sliding table is convenient and compact. But not everyone has the opportunity to buy it, since the price of a sliding table is quite high. But all craftsmen who are ready to create household items with their own hands have the opportunity to make it on their own. Tabletops can be made with your own hands, using a glass coating or wood. Glass tables or from natural wood species look very nice. But since natural materials are not cheap, it is better to entrust the legs and tabletop to be cut by specialists so as not to spoil the tree. Very beautiful sliding tables - on one leg.

The sliding table is very convenient and compact, it can also be made by hand using a glass or wooden cover.

The design can be chosen at will, for example, to make the legs chiseled or figured. The sliding table will have the following dimensions (in millimeters):

• table height - 775;
• countertop width - 885;
• countertop length - 1245;
• insert - 375.

Materials and tools that will be needed for modeling

In order to make such a sliding table, not so many materials are required, so the piece of furniture will turn out to be inexpensive, but practical and beautiful. The most important thing is that all parts have the right size and are symmetrical. From the materials you will need:

• wooden bars (legs) - section 85 \ 85 mm, length 745 mm;
• frames connecting the legs (width - 105 mm, thickness 30 mm): 2 pcs. 925 mm long (+ 2 spikes - their length is 40-55 mm), 2 pieces 485 mm each (+ 2 spikes, 40-55 mm long);
• 2 wooden worktop surfaces of the same size - 805 mm wide, 625 mm long;
• worktop insert - width 375 mm;
• for countertops, it is better to choose a carpentry shield (thickness 35-45 mm);
• sliding mechanism;
• wooden spikes for connecting frames (diameter 9-11 mm);
• a drill to create nests into which spikes will then be inserted;
• self-tapping screws for installing a sliding mechanism;
• glue for wooden surfaces (you can use PVA);
• machine for grinding wooden surfaces;
• sandpaper is loose;
• varnish for coating wooden surfaces;
• brush;
• ruler.

DIY sliding table - assembly

When the parts are assembled, the modeling process can begin. First of all, it is necessary to mark the nests on the wooden blanks for the legs. In the future, the spikes of the frames will be inserted into these sockets to connect the legs. In accordance with the diameter of the spike, you need to make holes. It is better to “plant” the spikes on the glue, in which case the structure will be much stronger.

First you need to assemble the underframe and only then proceed with the assembly of the main parts. A prerequisite is that the docking at the ends should be as accurate as possible. After placing the spikes in the nests, assemble the structure. It is not recommended to glue the parts right away, it is better to assemble the entire table first, see with your own eyes whether the sizes and joints match, and only then glue the parts.

After all the above steps, you need to start installing the insert. Some differences in the level of one or more parts may occur, which can be easily eliminated with a grinder. The sliding table mechanism is mainly made of aluminum. Installation is carried out either with self-tapping screws or by gluing.

The next step is the installation of the sliding mechanism. It is not difficult to attach it, it is enough to fasten the guides to the long frames, and each of the sliders to its own part of the tabletop. It is better to mount the sliding mechanism by turning the table on the countertop. It is imperative that after installing the mechanism, you need to check how the center insert will be installed.

Under the tabletop, you need to install two slats the same length as the wooden center insert. This should be done for ease of use - when the insert board is not needed, it will be under the table top and held by slats. After the assembly process, the finished product can be stained.

A round table is considered a real chic and luxury. To date, they are the most expensive on the market, especially those made from natural wood. It is also possible to make a sliding table with your own hands in a round shape, the main thing is to have a desire.

Sliding table do it yourself round shape

In principle, the technique for assembling a round table does not differ from the technique described above. The only thing is that the edges of the countertop will have a rounded shape. For its manufacture you will need:

• whatman;
• scissors;
• any glue for a wooden surface;
• bar for legs;
• simple pencil;
• ruler;
• boards;
• plywood 8 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw.

Using a large compass, you need to cut out the shape of the future tabletop from whatman paper. Only after that cut it out of wood. What kind of tabletop will be - glass or wood, depends on the desire of the owner of the future sliding table.

Glass and wooden sliding tables look much more beautiful if they have one curly leg.

What you need to know about assembling a sliding table with your own hands

All about countertop

First of all, it is necessary to decide what material and what shape the table will be made of. Pine or chipboard is perfect. Naturally, a pine board is preferable, as it is much stronger, in addition, pine boards are environmentally friendly. Boards are cut and processed according to the size of the future countertop. In the event that the table is nevertheless made of chipboard, the sheets must be drawn into 3 parts, 2 of which will be the same size, and the 3rd part will serve as an insert in the center of the tabletop. Before assembling this piece of furniture, it is better to draw a drawing or use ready-made drawings. In order for it to be strong and last for a long time, it is necessary to observe accuracy in the calculations. Only in this case it will not “float” and will be durable.

The legs are mainly made from bars, which can be purchased at the store. The color scheme of the tabletop and legs should be either the same or differ in color by 1-2 tones. And the countertop should be darker. A prerequisite for the manufacture of a sliding table is the proportionality of the dimensions of the table top and legs. Too thin legs will not be able to hold a large tabletop. The length of the legs should match the overall look - a small coffee table will not look good with long legs. But if the idea is an unusual sliding table, then special attention is paid to marking the center of the bar. Legs can be curly. It is also possible to make a figured leg on your own. To do this, it is enough to study the technique of carving figures from wood.

Tsarga - these are strips that connect two parts with ends. To mark the drawers, you need to put the table top on a comfortable surface “face down”, but before that it is better to lay a soft cloth so as not to damage the surface. It is better to make each of the blanks of the tsargi a little larger than the intended size. The excess can always be removed, but the shortcomings of the length - no. The drawer is processed by a lathe and a milling cutter.

All about Assembly

The most important step is assembly. Particular attention must be paid to the connection of the side frames to the leg or legs. To do this, each spike must correspond to a pre-prepared groove. Do not forget about the grooves - they provide a strong connection. When applying glue for structural strength, after drying, all its excess must be removed with sandpaper. In any work, inconsistencies can occur, for example, mismatched edges of the tabletop. This is easy to fix with a grinder. Then clean with sandpaper and varnish the surface.

Advantages of sliding tables

The main and clear advantage of a do-it-yourself sliding table is its versatility. A special mechanism helps to make a large dining table out of a small compact table. That is why it is convenient for small apartment rooms. It does not take up much space, but allows you to seat about 9-10 people.

Due to the fact that there is a huge amount of material on the trade market for creating a sliding table at home, it can be made not only multifunctional and convenient, but also beautiful and stylish.

You can classify tables that are moved apart as follows:

Transformers.

Sliding tables got this name due to their unique ability to transform. From a seemingly small table, you can get a quite roomy dining room. The tables are round or oval in shape. The main distinguishing feature of these tables is the increase not only in their size, but also in height. You can make such a table with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to have a drawing. In addition, transformers have recently become very popular not only because of their convenience, but also because of their design excellence. Basically, transforming tables are made of wood or glass. Mirrored ones look very nice and save a lot of space in an apartment or house.

Standard sliding tables.

Tables of this type are no less popular. They are made of natural wood, fiberboard or chipboard. The advantage lies in their compactness. In addition, making a sliding table with your own hands will not be difficult. It is enough to follow the instructions for their construction.

Any sliding table is comfort and versatility. All of them are practical and economical. You can make a table not only for eating, but also for drawing, games. A do-it-yourself extendable table is a great way to make a child's room comfortable and stylish. In addition to all the advantages, transporting sliding tables is much easier than conventional ones.

A do-it-yourself extendable table for a children's room is an ideal solution, especially if there are several children in the family. In addition, it can be combined with a bed. Well, the most important positive side of the do-it-yourself sliding table is its economical cost.

A key element of the kitchen is deservedly considered a dining table. The mood of a family dinner and the impression that the kitchen makes as a whole will depend on how beautiful and comfortable it is.

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Features and Benefits

When we think about which model of a dining table to choose, we definitely think about the free kitchen space. You should not buy a large and beautiful table in the kitchen of medium or small sizes. It will become a source of inconvenience: not only hurried children, but also adults will be injured on its edges. It will interfere with moving other furniture around the kitchen, its size will become an obstacle when cleaning the room. Fixed tables are undoubtedly attractive and look prestigious, but the most modest of them requires a kitchen measuring at least 10 square meters.

The best option for a not very large kitchen would be a sliding table.

Such models have certain advantages: they look compact and neat, while being very functional - if necessary, they can be suitable for both family members and guests.

How the compactness and large size of the tabletop are combined can be understood if we consider the device of the sliding table. It differs significantly from how a regular table is arranged, which has a tabletop and legs connected by fasteners. A sliding (or folding) table must have removable or retractable parts of the tabletop. A mechanism is necessarily built into its design, with the help of which the extension and increase in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe table top occur.

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Kinds

Folding tables for modern kitchens are presented in a huge variety of models. Some of them will decorate not only the kitchen, certain options fit perfectly into the interior of the living room.

The most advanced designs are equipped with devices that provide instant and independent transformation with just the turn of a special handle.

However, such models are usually considered luxury items and are quite expensive.

Types of folding tables that can be installed in the kitchen:

1. Extendable countertop.
2. Table, which can be turned into a coffee table.
3. Glass sliding table.
4. Table- "butterfly".
5. Table, with folding mechanism.

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With extendable tabletop, drawer

Most often, the mechanism of this table includes guides along which the main panels of the table top roll out to the sides. For free and easy sliding, these panels are equipped with rollers, they are limited at the edges by locking elements to prevent them from completely falling out of the guides. When the parts of the tabletop are moved apart, an additional panel or several parts of the tabletop are installed in the resulting opening. So there is an increase in the surface.

The tsarga, which gave the name to this design, is the frame on which the countertop is attached. Such designs have been used for more than one century, they can be safely called the most durable. The popular table - “book” also belongs to the tsar constructions. It allows you to increase the size of the tabletop by 50%. Usually, "books" are additionally equipped with a drawer - a tray for storing kitchen utensils or napkins.

Retractable parts are usually stored under the main cover, but they can be located separately. The shape of such tables can be rectangular, oval or round.

An interesting sliding-type table-transformer with a round table top, standing on one leg, which during the transformation is divided into two legs - props. Of course, gaps are noticeable at the joints of the parts of the tabletops, but usually they are small and do not interfere with the installation of cutlery. If the owners use a tablecloth or large napkins for decoration, then the gaps cannot be noticed at all. Usually wooden sliding tables (or those whose top is made of MDF) are equipped with such a mechanism.

Recently, with the advent of high-strength glass production technologies (stalinite, triplex), classic sliding tables have also been produced from it.

glass sliding

In the folded version, the tabletop is lowered, and a small glass table is at the disposal of the owners.

Special legs help raise the countertop - like those that are equipped with ironing boards. Thanks to the possibility of adjusting the height, you can adjust the desired size and settle down in complete comfort - both on an upholstered sofa and on classic chairs.

At these tables, the docking seams are also visible. They do not "cut the eye" at all, harmoniously fitting into the design of the structure.

"Butterfly"

The "butterfly" table has been known since the times of the Soviet past. This design is time-tested and can be considered a classic.

In the unfolded version, such a table can fit in the smallest corner of the kitchen, as it occupies about half a meter of usable area. When you want to use it for a feast, you can push the table to the center of the kitchen or living room, raise the countertops hanging on the sides and fix them with retractable legs - spacers. If necessary, only one of the sides can be decomposed. At the spread out table-"butterfly" you can easily seat a lot of people. For the convenience of storing various kitchen trifles, this design is equipped with special drawers.

Multifunctionality can be called a big advantage of the "butterfly" design. This table combines four pieces of furniture:

1. bedside table with drawers;
2. a small table measuring 26 × 90 cm;
3. extendable table for 8 people;
4. extendable table for 12 people.

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Flip mechanism

Such designs look like narrow shelves attached to the wall in any convenient place in the kitchen, which, if necessary, easily turn into a dining surface. Usually they are used in the interior of a small kitchen (6 square meters in size).

If you want to use such a table, you need to raise the hanging part of the tabletop and pull out a spacer (most often metal) from under it, on top of which the tabletop panel is superimposed.

The size of folding structures can be quite diverse, from small surfaces designed for a family of two to a decent kitchen table that can seat four or five.

The latest design solution in this direction includes the possibility of double transformation of the folding table. In this case, two panels hang on the wall at once, which are folded up and securely fastened. One of them is designed to install a small table suitable for one person. The second, more extensive, can accommodate two people. Such a model is commonly called a table-picture.

In the event that the panels of such a table are made the height of the entire wall and fixed in the ceiling area, then you can get a giant folding table that can serve to receive large companies.

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Coffee table

The basis for such a model is a massive cabinet, often equipped with wheels for ease of movement. Outwardly, this is a classic coffee table that goes well with a soft sofa in the kitchen. The tabletop in this design can rise above the base and unfold like a "book", after which chairs or stools can be attached to such a table for a lunch or a small dinner party.

The disadvantage of this design is some unaesthetic. The side view is especially strange, so this model is best covered with a long tablecloth.

Such a table is convenient for those who do not arrange feasts too often, but spend most of their time sitting on a low sofa-sofa.

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Dimensions

When the owners of the kitchen are faced with the question of which version of the sliding table to choose, its dimensions become the main point. It is important to correctly calculate how widely the acquisition will be laid out so that it is convenient to use it.

The height of kitchen folding tables usually ranges from 70 cm to 78 cm. This is due to the physiological characteristics of the average human figure. Significantly different is only the height of those structures, the mechanism of which has the possibility of turning into a coffee table. For them, the height of 44–45 cm is recognized as optimal. The width may vary (depending on the design features).

Usually, when buying such a model, the seller necessarily tells about all the design features, reports what inserts this table is equipped with, and shows on the sample how exactly it moves apart.

In the event that furniture is selected in an online store, it is worth giving preference to those trading platforms that provide the most detailed information about the product and indicate in the description what the countertop is made of, as well as the underframe, legs, what dimensions the structure has and where it is stored .

The sizes of folding kitchen tables offered to the buyer in the domestic market start from 26 cm wide (butterfly table) and 80 cm long. The maximum can reach 183 cm in length (transforming table on a pedestal), 215 cm (butterfly table with additional sections and reinforced legs) and 227 cm (classic collet table with an insert in the middle).

The most popular among buyers are the models:

1. From solid wood, chipboard or MDF, 60 × 90 cm in size, equipped with an additional tabletop, having a “book” transformation mechanism, which allows, when unfolded, to increase the surface up to 120 × 90 cm; production in Russia.
2. Table on chrome-plated metal legs, with glass sliding top with photo printing. Folded dimensions - 70 × 90 cm, unfolded - 70 × 135 cm; Russian production.
3. Folding table made of solid wood (beech) made in China, folded with dimensions of 1200 × 800 × 760 mm. When unfolded, the length of the table increases to 1640 mm.
4. Sliding model, made of solid wood and MDF, finished with veneer, and measuring 120 × 80 cm, made in Malaysia. It has a central insert of 30 cm, allowing you to increase the size up to 150 cm in length.

materials

There is a large selection of materials from which a folding kitchen table can be made. Budget models with legs and a collet (frame) made of solid wood, equipped with a chipboard or MDF top covered with wood veneer, have long become familiar. More interesting models have tabletops made of solid wood, decorated with carved inserts, but their price tag can no longer be called budget.

Recently, tables with stone countertops made of light and durable artificial stone or ceramic tiles have become in demand.

They look very attractive in stylish modern kitchens with a lot of household appliances. Such products are very practical, because they are resistant to high temperatures and are not afraid of cuts.

Folding products made of impact-resistant glass are becoming more and more popular. The hardened materials from which their countertops are made can have various names: triplex, satin, optivaite or stemalite.

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Color solutions and decor

The classic color for the kitchen table is the shade of natural wood, usually dark beech, oak or wenge, but recently colors such as “bleached” or “white” oak have become relevant. Thanks to the light color scheme, the traditional wooden table becomes visually lighter and does not clutter up the space in a small kitchen.

For kitchens, the size of which allows you to operate with massive and dark furniture, natural wood tones are still the most preferred.

Models with a glass top, which have become a hit in recent years, can be made in various colors. Beautiful and mysterious black glass tables can have either a completely mirrored surface, or only partially - thanks to the insert.

There are countertops with photo printing, brightly colored glass or transparent, creating the effect of additional space in the kitchen. Both wooden and metal legs can serve as the basis for such tables, and in some designer models, a glass top can be mounted on an elegant and stylish white wood cabinet.

The surface of the countertop can be decorated with ceramic tiles or mosaics. This decor looks great, it is practical and convenient for housewives in terms of cleaning.

How to choose?

As with the purchase of any other piece of furniture, when purchasing a sliding table, you need to start from the size of the room in which it is planned to be installed.

A folding table for the kitchen does not take up much space, but if necessary, its surface almost doubles. This point must be taken into account when choosing a particular model. Taking care of the comfort of guests, you should calculate the amount of free space.

There are pros and cons inherent in tables with different tabletop shapes. The shape of the tabletops can be round, while in the extended state they turn into ovals. Another popular option is square countertops, which become rectangular when transformed.

Tables with a round top have some advantages (compared to square or rectangular ones):

1. At this table more people can be accommodated, since there are no corners in its design that “eat up” the usable area.
2. This model will be a good find for caring parents, as the child does not risk injury by stumbling into an acute angle from a run.

A noticeable drawback inherent in a sliding round table is that it cannot be placed against the wall itself.

It is also worth noting that due to the diameter of the tabletop, it will be difficult for guests to get dishes located in the center of the table. This must be taken into account when serving dishes for large lunches and dinners.

A square table can be placed close to the wall to save space in the kitchen. It can be made in the form of a folding table and does not take up any free space when folded. It can also be made in the shape of a "butterfly", it will look like a small nightstand.

Regardless of the size of the kitchen, whether it is a spacious kitchen in a new building, a country house or a small one in a small family, the most important piece of furniture is the kitchen table. Various building materials are used today for the production of tables, for example, glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But of all these materials, wood is still used more often. If you want to save money, then the kitchen table can be made independently. In this scenario, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But first you should work hard and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider together with you in this article.

Making important measurements and calculations

Before starting work on the manufacture of the kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Usually such tables are calculated for a specific number of people. As a rule, this number ranges from three to nine. But it is best to take into account a couple of extra places in the calculations, in case guests arrive. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a large table that can accommodate up to fifteen people.

Important calculations:

• The working length for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of people. The resulting figure will be the perimeter of the future table.
• How exactly the table will be installed: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first version, the table will be able to accommodate more guests.
• Will the table have drawers or other accessories.

Decide on the size and location. The optimal table width is 80-110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, then you will have difficulty serving. In the case of choosing an oval table shape, it is necessary to calculate the circumference. To do this, multiply the square of the radius by the number Pi (3.14).

Round or oval kitchen tables are necessarily located only in the center of the kitchen.

• Do not place the table near the stove.
• You can not put a table under the air conditioner.

It is equally important to decide on the shape of the table. Surface geometry can drastically change the look of an entire space. It directly depends on the shape whether it will be convenient to eat or not. Most of all, a rectangular shape with right angles is in demand. These countertops are great for square or rectangular kitchens. At the same time, it can be placed near the wall or in the center of the room.

Oval-shaped tables are also very popular. There are several valid reasons:

1. The oval table has an attractive appearance.
2. There is no need to go around corners. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
3. An oval table is best suited for a formal meal.

There are a lot of advantages in favor of an oval shaped kitchen table. But in the presence of a large family, it is inferior to a rectangular shape. There are also round shapes, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take certain dishes. As for the oval table top, the ideal diameter is 140 cm.

So, when choosing the shape of the table, start mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen of 8 m 2 or less, an oval table will be impractical, as it will require a lot of free space.

We prepare drawings and tools

If you have decided on the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can proceed to the next step - drawing up a drawing. It should display the required dimensions of the surface, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening certain nodes. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120x60x75.

Although such a table will be small, you can easily understand the principle of making such furniture using its example. In your drawing, you can resize the table according to your needs.

You will need:

1. Tabletop 1.2 × 0.6 m - 1 piece.
2. Cross jumpers 40 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
3. Longitudinal jumpers 100 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
4. Table legs 70 cm high - 4 pieces.

To build a countertop, you need to prepare boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to consider the method of attaching important nodes.

First of all, you will need to collect all the necessary tools and materials:

• plane,
• hacksaw,
• electric jigsaw,
• screwdriver,
• sandpaper,
• ruler or tape measure
• square,
• pencil,
• circular saw,
• milling machine,
• file,
• clamps,
• paint brush,
• wood glue,
• polyurethane varnish: matt or glossy,
• solvent.

When everything is ready, you can get to work.

Assembly Guide: Countertop Requirements

As for the countertop, it is important to decide whether it will be sliding or not. For example, when assembled, the table can be used for cooking, and in a sliding state as a means for eating.

The countertop should not absorb odors and grease. Also consider practicality.

A good countertop should not absorb moisture, withstand strong impacts. The surface of the table should not be afraid of steam, condensate and high temperature. All these requirements are met by a countertop made of natural and artificial stone or covered with ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in the interior of modern style.

One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated with film or covered with plastic. At the price of chipboard plates are available to many. Moreover, such material is the easiest to work with. Some may deny that chipboard countertops are practical. This is partly true, but with proper processing, it will last more than one year. Here are some recommendations and tips for working with chipboard countertops:

• The film or plastic should be rounded at the ends of the chipboard.
• Each 90° rounded end is treated with silicone.
• However, in this position, the end is vulnerable to moisture ingress, so it is better to wrap the end 180 °.

You should be objective and mention the disadvantages of such a countertop. If the chipboard swells, then there is no way to fix this problem. As a result, you will have to make a new table or at least a countertop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and mechanical stress.

Of course, if we talk about the most ideal and environmentally friendly option, then here the tree rightfully comes first. But in the care of such a surface is more capricious. Do not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood, allow scratches and other damage. Microbes can settle and multiply inside them, which adversely affect the mechanical strength of wood. Therefore, from time to time, wood countertops must be varnished, cleaned, and opened with a layer of wax.

leg requirements

The number of legs will vary depending on the shape and size of the table. For example, if you are making a table from chipboard, then 4 legs will be enough, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop. If you make strong wooden legs, then this design will be durable and strong.

Legs can be made by hand. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will depend entirely on the shape of the legs. If you think that this is beyond your power, then purchase ready-made metal legs or choose carved wooden ones. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities.

The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, this will depend directly on the weight, shape and configuration of the countertop and the table as a whole.

The table, which has one massive leg, looks impressive and beautiful from the side. For its installation, a high-quality cruciform strapping is performed.

Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table with two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that the legs will not interfere with any of the sitting people. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport. Between themselves, they are connected by a jumper board.

But ordinary tables with four legs are simple in design and do not need precise and complex calculations. This table is stable and durable. The most important thing here is to choose the right size of the legs and mount them at the right distance. At the same time, tables on four legs can be very different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.

So, regardless of the number of legs chosen in your design, their aesthetics always remain the most important. The aesthetic appeal of the table legs is even more important than the beauty of the countertop. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth, and the legs are always visible.

We build a folding table

One of the simple shapes of the kitchen table is rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls of the box. The table top and sidewalls can be made from 18 mm chipboard, and the legs from a 40 × 40 mm bar. First you need to make plywood drawers, 2 cm thick (table legs will be attached to them), as well as two horizontal strips. It is on them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for the manufacture you will need to purchase the following material:

• Self-tapping screws 4×16.
• Self-tapping screws 4×50.
• Furniture corners 30×30.
• Laminated edges in the color of chipboard.
• Wooden dowels 8×40.

To make the table move apart, you can use standard guides. They provide smooth movement of the countertop. So, all the necessary parts of the following sizes are pre-made:

• Leg 710 mm.
• Two fixed parts 450×700 mm.
• Removable part 400×700 mm.
• For the box of the fixed part, there are four sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
• For the box for fixed parts, two end 600 × 120 mm.
• From plywood, two side drawers 830 × 120 mm.
• From plywood, two end sides 498 × 120 mm.
• To accommodate a removable tabletop, two strips 498 × 120 mm.

With such blanks, you get a sliding table in size:

1. Extended 1300×700 mm.
2. Assembled 900×700 mm.

It is best to cut all the blanks on special equipment. This is important in order to accurately withstand all dimensions. All blanks made of plywood and wood should be carefully cleaned and varnished in two layers.

So, step by step instructions:

1. First of all, the side and longitudinal drawers are fixed on the outside of the legs flush with the ends. After that, with the help of self-tapping screws 4 × 50 mm, corners are attached from the outside and from the inside 4 × 16 mm. The corners are attached to the longitudinal tsargs through horizontal slats.
2. Further, a wide guide is fixed on the inside of the side tsarga.
3. Under the dowels, you will need to drill two holes on the inner ends of the countertop. They are attached for a collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second will be attached to the glue. From the dowel to the edge of the countertop, the distance should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
4. Two dowels are mounted on a removable table top. To do this, two holes are drilled on the reverse side.
5. At the next stage, it's time to assemble the U-shaped parts of the box from chipboard. In this case, the end elements 600 × 120 should be located between the sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
6. Now screw on the narrow guides. This is necessary so that the chipboard box moves on average 2 mm higher than the plywood collet.
7. After that, the guides snap into place and are checked for movement along the drawer.
8. Attach the non-removable part of the tabletop using corners and 4x16mm self-tapping screws. Both parts must match perfectly. Therefore, just before attaching them, slide both parts and check their alignment. Then carefully push the drawers apart and secure the countertops.
9. On the shelf inside the table, place the removable part of the tabletop.

Folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen!

If your kitchen has a miniature size, then choosing the right shape for the kitchen table can be difficult. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. When folded, it will serve as a decorative frame, and when unfolded, it will serve as a full-fledged dining table. Although in each case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visualize what exactly your drawing will look like.

For work you need:

• MDF board 180 mm thick - 5 pieces,
• 150×90 cm,
• 130 × 10 cm - 2 pieces,
• 90×20 cm,
• 70×20 cm,
• holdfast,
• wood glue,
• acrylic putty,
• electric drill,
• drill for wood 3 mm and for metal 8-10 mm,
• sandpaper,
• acrylic paint for wood
• roller,
• masking tape,
• screws 3.5×30 and 3.5×16 mm,
• loops,
• screwdriver,
• two furniture bolts.

The whole process of work will not take you much time if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions below.

1. Based on the set of material, the table will be made of MDF. Make drawings first.
2. The frame is built first. To do this, four smaller elements are attached to the largest board from below, using a carpentry vise. Every 250 mm, holes are drilled in the frame with a Ø3 mm drill, up to 3 cm deep.
3. After that, a hole is drilled with a metal drill Ø8-10 mm to a depth of 3 mm. In this way, it will be possible to deepen the heads of the twisted screws.
4. Further, carpentry glue is applied to the lower surface of the four frame elements, and after that, each element is applied in its place. Each of them must be well pressed with a carpenter's vice.
5. Mounting the frame on glue is not enough, so you should additionally fix it on screws.
6. At the same time, disguise the screw heads so that they do not spoil the overall look. To do this, you will need acrylic putty.
7. When the putty has dried, you can sand the surface of the decorative frame with sandpaper.
8. The ends of the countertops should be glued with masking tape.
9. Paint the surface of the frame with acrylic paint using a roller, and paint over the corners and edges with a brush.
10. Then screw the hinges along the short edge of the table top. From the edge must be at least 150 mm. Mark holes on the wall and drill for the dowel. Thus, the hinges will be screwed to the wall.
11. When the table is in an upright position, it will be held on top with latches. They should be fixed in such a way that they are not conspicuous, for example, at the edges of wall shelves.

Table from postforming table top in 5 stages

Such a table can be completed in the shortest possible time. To do this, you will need to first collect all the necessary material and tools. You will need:

• pencil,
• postforming tabletop,
• jigsaw,
• jigsaw file,
• Sander,
• edging,
• cutter,
• silicone sealant,
• rubber mallet,
• sharp knife,
• clamps,
• metal legs with holder
• hex key.

All work can be done in 5 successive stages.

Stage 1

Mark the front side of the table top with a pencil. The markup will match your drawing. Each rounding is performed with a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the edge from discoloring at sharp bends.

Stage 2

Now you need to give the appropriate shape to the countertop. To do this, use a jigsaw. When cutting, it is recommended to leave a small backlog of 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the jigsaw blade. It must have a reverse direction of the teeth. This will avoid chips on the plastic coating. Although partially they can be hidden by piping. To accurately bring the dimensions and shape of the countertop, it is necessary to work on the ends with a belt-type grinder.

Stage 3

In the third step, it's time to mill the groove. Milling is always performed strictly in the center of the end face. And this is even regardless of whether the edging will exactly match the thickness of the table top or will be large. If you do not have a cutter with the exact dimensions of the edge groove, then you can go several times with a cutter that has a lower tooth height.

Stage 4

When the groove is ready, you can start stuffing the edging. To do this, the end face is pre-coated with silicone sealant. This will prevent water intrusion. Sealant is applied to the top edge of the edge. The edge itself is stuffed with a rubber mallet. The joint should be formed in the most inconspicuous place. When the stuffing is completed, it is important to make an exact docking of the piping. There is no way to do without a sharp knife. After that, you will need to remove the excess sealant around the entire perimeter of the countertop, which was formed when the edging was driven in.

When fixing countertops using clamps, it is important to use special gaskets. They are installed on the protruding edges of the edge and prevent their damage.

Stage 5

At the final stage, the legs are fixed. To do this, you should attach the molded holders to the underside of the tabletop. So that they are at the same distance, mark up with a pencil. From the edge of the leg should be at a distance of up to 10 cm. This holder is fixed with self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long with a countersunk head. Now it remains to make the final touch: fix the legs in the holder with a hex wrench. The dining table for the kitchen is ready!

As you can see, the table from the postforming tabletop is very simple and, most importantly, available for home-made manufacturing at home. To do this, you need to have basic carpentry tools. But there are also dangers to be aware of here. If handled carelessly, there is a risk of breaking the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you carefully operate such a table, it will last for many years.

The choice is yours

We have considered with you several options for how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its manufacture. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and ingenuity.

Video

This video shows an example of making a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balusters are skillfully used as legs:

Hospitality and a room of 12 square meters are as badly combined as a spectacular woman and a stingy man. However, miracles happen: Isabella marries the Wandering Jew, and the wife's relatives manage to step over each other for three weeks, sleeping ten of them on your carpet. But you can’t organize a good feast on the carpet, no matter how much you want to feed these freeloaders from a dog bowl - you have to make a sliding table with your own hands.

The basic model of the sliding table, from which we will build

Extendable table design

Now quite complex mechanisms for sliding tables are being sold, where it is enough to twist one handle in order to see the miracle of reincarnation. But these are all bourgeois manners, designed not for a home master, but for a child with a fat wallet. We'll take the old, time-tested design shown in the first photo and modernize it a bit.

What was the main inconvenience of the Soviet sliding table? There was no opening mechanism at all, as in chests of drawers of that time. Proletarians and scientists equally performed physical exercises, trying to push a box filled with linen or spread out a table. By rubbing wood against wood, you can make fire, but in this case, the goal is slightly different.

By adding just one element, we will understand how to make a sliding table easy to use. Take a look at the next picture and you will see this little trick.

Slightly modernized extension table model

Materials and fasteners

We will make the table in a classic configuration, so the materials will have to be combined. We use:

• For legs - a bar with a section of 40x40 millimeters. The height of the dining table is approximately 730mm, so we need four 710mm long legs.
• For the base of the table - plywood, 20 mm thick.
• For the tabletop and frame - laminated chipboard 18 mm thick.

Legs and plywood parts will have to be processed and tinted to match the color of the tabletop. At least approximately.

The main innovation of the table is the full roll-out guides, which are usually used for drawers. We will need two sets of 300 mm each. The usual fasteners will be hidden, so we can do without frills:

• Self-tapping screws 4x50 mm for wood.
• Self-tapping screws 4x16 mm.
• Dowels 8x40 mm.
• Furniture corners, metal, 30x30 mm, for self-tapping screws.
• Adhesive-backed edge, in chipboard color, melamine.

Sawing parts from plywood and laminated chipboard needs to be clean, accurate and geometrically verified, so we will order it to someone who has a cutting machine for laminated chipboard of the Robland type or a class higher. General dimensions of the table (without height): folded 900x700 mm, unfolded - 1300x700 mm. On such an area, you can feed ten people or 25 students - if you put a table in the hostel.

Extendable table detail

We have already announced the height of the legs, proceed to other details.

We indicate the dimensions of parts from chipboard:

• 450x700 mm - 2 pcs. Tabletop parts.
• 400x700 mm - removable part of the tabletop.
• 420x120 mm - 4 pcs. Sidewalls of boxes under a table-top.
• 600x120 mm - 2 pcs. End parts of boxes under a table-top.

Dimensions of plywood parts:

• 498x120 mm - 4 pcs. The end parts of the frame and slats, on which the removable fragment of the tabletop will lie in the “folded table” position.
• 830x120 mm - 2 pcs. Frame sides.

The quality of processing of parts made of plywood and wooden legs is completely on your conscience. The table is roomy and special moisture protection is not needed here, but splinters will not please anyone either. Therefore, we recommend double sanding - before and after the first varnishing. We remove the wood fibers that have risen under the first varnish with fine-grained sandpaper and smear the second layer.

Assembling the frame with legs

End parts and strips are attached between the sidewalls of the frame. End - it is clear that flush with the edges of the sidewalls. We fasten the planks almost in the center of the resulting frame, flush with the bottom edge, at a distance of 100-120 mm from each other. The removable fragment of the tabletop on the platform formed by them will hold normally, but in order to pull it out, you will have to tilt one side, so we make the distance between the planks minimal.

We attach the legs to the frame from the inside and fasten through the frame from the outside with 4x50 mm self-tapping screws. Additionally, we put the corners on the frame-leg plane. Be sure to check the stability of the table at this stage and, if necessary, adjust the length of the legs.

Preparing the details of the countertop

First of all, we glue the fragments of the tabletop and the details of the boxes with an edge - everything that we made from chipboard.

To do this, we apply the edge to the ends of the parts with the adhesive side down and press it with an iron heated to 3/4 of the maximum. We iron the edge that has not had time to cool down with a dry cloth - so that the edges “grab” properly. The protruding edges of the edge can be cut off with a knife, trying not to damage the laminate, and the roughness can be carefully processed with sandpaper.

On the inner ends of the sliding tabletops and on both sides of the inner fragment, we drill matching holes for dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 25-30 mm. Let's designate the countertops as left, right and middle - for simplicity. We glue the dowels into the left tabletop and into the middle one - on the right side. Thus, the tabletops are joined together both with and without the middle part.

Extendable table assembly

We start with the assembly of U-shaped boxes from chipboard. The end parts are again between the sidewalls. Decorative plugs are sold in any color, so it's easy to disguise the caps of self-tapping screws. The full rollout guides shown in the photo are divided into two parts, but their fastener axes coincide. We attach the wide parts to the base of the sliding table, flush with the ends and the bottom of the frame. The axis of the fastener is located at a distance of 20 mm from the bottom of the base.

Full Rollout Guides

We fasten the mating, narrow parts of the guides onto the U-shaped chipboard boxes, and mark the axis of the fastener, stepping back 18 mm from the bottom. That is, the chipboard box will protrude 2 mm up relative to the frame - to give room for the corners and the tabletop does not “crawl” along the frame.

We snap the guides and check the docking of the boxes. There are free, adjustable holes along the fastener axes on the rails and you can slightly loosen the self-tapping screws (4x16), adjusting the docking.

We fasten the tabletops to the sliding boxes on the corners - respectively from the inside. Luckily, we left room for them. The easiest way to carry out this operation is to move the boxes and lay the countertops on top. Then, by gently pushing each side along with the tabletop element, we will achieve a perfect match - better than with any markup.

We have already actually explained how to make a sliding table with your own hands. But this is just the simplest, one might say, elementary option - with certain additional amenities.

In fact, you can add fantasy moments to it: Round off the corners of the tabletops and snap them with a piping, play with colors, making them contrasting, put the entire table on wheel supports, changing the dimensions.

The main thing is to decide on the "stove", from which you can already dance "as God puts on your soul."

A folding table is a convenient and practical thing that is popular among owners of small apartments, summer residents, outdoor enthusiasts.

Functionality of folding furniture

There is a wide variety of folding tables - the photo shows typical options. Often the finished product is purchased in specialized stores, it is not difficult to make a table on your own.

In small rooms, furniture is often used that allows you to rationalize free space - it unfolds if a large work surface is required, and is removed in other cases: student desks, tables in the kitchen, in the hall, garage, workshop, etc.

It is convenient to use portable models of tables: they are light, compact, moderately durable. They are made from different materials, each of which has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Wood must be protected from water, mold, but it is affordable and well processed, steel is heavy but strong, aluminum is easily damaged, but light.

It must be borne in mind that for outdoor use, protection from moisture is required. Metal structures should not rust, the materials used must be moisture resistant - an aluminum frame and a plastic worktop are often found as the best combination. Plywood, wood, fiberboard suitable for indoor use.

You need to choose a suitable table according to weight, dimensions. If the transportation of things involves the use of a car, then the total weight and shape of the tabletop is not of great importance, the main thing is that everything fits in the trunk of the car.

If you want to fit a folding table in a tourist backpack, the requirements are increased: minimum weight with maximum functionality.

During operation, it is important not to overload the tables - they are usually not designed for the weight of an adult, therefore it is unacceptable to use them as a stand for large items.

Which table to take for going out into nature

Inexpensive folding picnic tables are a sought-after product in stores. They are presented in a wide range. Sold separately or in combination with chairs. The height-adjustable rectangular countertop is the most popular option. Manufacturers stipulate the maximum load on the table, the average range is 20 - 40 kg, for metal structures 2-4 times more.

Home craftsmen, having minimal carpentry skills and appropriate tools, are able to make an analogue in the shortest possible time that is not inferior to the purchased table.

Homemade portable table No. 1

Materials:

• For the countertop: boards, chipboard or thick plywood, size 55cm x 30cm - 2 pcs.
• For legs: wooden beam 69 cm x 4.5 cm x 2 cm - 4 pcs., additional supports 50 cm x 4.5 cm x 2 cm - 4 pcs., crossbar 45 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm - 2 pcs.

The model of this folding table is convenient for transportation when folded, it is not difficult to do it yourself. A special feature is the folding mechanism, in which the tabletop splits into two parts.

The bar for the legs is rounded on one side and is connected to the foot supports not fixedly, but movably. To do this, a hole for fastening is drilled in the upper part of each future leg, bolted to the support. The tabletop is attached to the support with self-tapping screws.

The crossbars are fixed so that at the finished table in the unfolded state they are located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ground, parallel to it. To increase overall stability, the lower part of the leg is sawn off at 45 degrees.

Before doing the work, it is necessary to prepare a drawing of the details.

Homemade portable table number 2

A one-piece table top is less compact, but it is easier and faster to make such a table than the previous version.

The fastening mechanism is simplified - two supports are connected to the table top and one pair of legs. The second pair moves freely, when unfolding, it rests against the limiter at the bottom of the working surface.

Most folding table models have cruciform legs - this is how the maximum strength and stability of the product is achieved.

For this, you have to endure some discomfort - sitting behind such a design is not very convenient.

You can also try another option, when four supports are arranged in parallel. The margin of safety then decreases.

Roll table

A compact product is obtained if lining, parquet boards or analogues are used for the countertop. The size and shape is selected independently in accordance with personal preferences, it is even possible to make a round table.

The workpieces do not need to be rigidly connected to each other at the same distance. For this, a strong nylon tape is used. Fixation is carried out using a construction stapler or small nails.

It is permissible to temporarily insert small boards into the gaps for the duration of work, which will help ensure the correct distance between the details of the countertop.

In order for the final structure to keep its shape and be durable, a pair of removable bars are placed along the edges, to which the legs are attached.

It is good to use parts of an old collapsible Soviet stool as a support, or prepare a similar one yourself. Ideally suited pads with a round cross section.

In order to be able to use this table, it remains only to make a through hole in the tabletop, removable bars and fix everything with bolts.

Outwardly, such a table is similar to a stationary one, but is not designed for heavy loads. When disassembled, it is easily rolled up, the legs and planks for fixing do not take up much space - it is convenient to transport and store.

It is easy to find a portable aluminum table on sale, which also folds into a roll and is placed in a protective case during storage.

With a dead weight of 5-7 kg, such models are designed for an average load of 80 kg. They are quite durable, easy to use and have a reliable locking mechanism. For a large company going on vacation in nature, this is a good option.

Compact tables for apartments and cottages

Collapsible furniture is often used in stationary conditions with a shortage of space. If the arrival of guests is expected, then the usual seats at the dining table are not enough, the presence of a folding one is an excellent solution to the problem.

Changing the number of permanent residents in the family with the same square meters also makes you think about the implementation of interesting design solutions in your personal space.

A full-fledged study is a luxury available to everyone in a standard apartment, but it is quite possible to design a compact work area. Multifunctional furniture, such as transforming tables, is often used by schoolchildren and students.

Manufacturers of modern furniture offer different models of folding tables, the most picky buyer is able to choose the best option for himself.

Before buying, you need to think in advance for what purpose the table is intended, whether it will have a minimally useful constantly used area, or be stored in a secluded corner when folded.

The most sought-after square tables, which extend to a rectangular shape for a great deal. For many years, book tables have shown reliability and practicality. A sliding system on the principle of a slider also finds its application.

Convenient models with "wings" save space in the room. A bistro-type kitchen folding table is rational to use for a tiny room. They are laid out like an ironing board, hiding when not in use, freeing up usable space.

Many of these ideas can really be implemented independently if you have the desire and suitable materials. For the family budget, the benefit is obvious - a manufactured product will cost less than a new purchase.

You can implement the most daring ideas, optimally combined with the interior and the size of the room. A wooden table is a classic option, but you can choose any source material, depending on personal preferences and the amount of planned expenses.

Home craftsmen are more likely to remake suitable parts of old furniture than to buy new building materials.

Rationally select folding tables and do not experience domestic inconveniences at home and in field conditions.

Photo of a folding table