Sealing seams in a log house with sealant. How to seal the seams between the logs Sealing the seams between the timber inside the house

Great happiness to have your own Vacation home. When a house is built of wood, it's just a fairy tale. Unique atmosphere, warm and cozy. Everything is in primordially Russian traditions and customs. In order for such beauty to please more than one generation, the house needs careful care. And since wood is a special material, the problems associated with its long-term operation are also of a special nature.

Under the influence of precipitation, sun, temperature changes, cracks appear on the logs. Sealing cracks in the logs of the log house is an important and mandatory stage. There are three main types of wood problems.

Longitudinal cracks

• a deep split along the length of the log occurs when the load is unbearable or the log rots, such an element cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced as soon as possible in order to maintain the integrity of the structure as a whole.
• straight slots - pass along the axis of the log or cylinder;
• spiral splits - do not coincide with the axis of the base;
• segmental cracks - partial cracking of a log, with different depths and split lengths.

Such shortcomings are corrected using insulation and sealant. This method provides thermal insulation. And the use of insulation reduces the consumption of expensive sealant. With a minimum depth of defect, only sealant is used. Sealant is a universal product, suitable for both internal works, and external. The physical properties remain unchanged.

How to prevent cracking logs

Cracks can grow in size over time and then it will be much more difficult to get rid of them or close up holes. Prevention of cracking is:

Ways to seal cracks

Despite the quality of the pre-treatment of the wood, there is always the possibility of cracks. It is important and carefully close up the space at the junction of logs. There are various options for sealing cracks:

Perfectly even and identical logs simply do not exist. The need to touch the joints between logs or cylinders always arises. When sealing joints, it is recommended to combine tow and sealant. The beginning of the seam is filled with a sealant, it can be a jute tow or other similar sealant. When assembling a house, such material will play the role of a heater and a docking material, and a sealant will ensure complete tightness of the joints and protect the sealing elements from falling out.

Stages of proper sealing of joints with sealant and tow

Two types of these finishing materials are more practical to use together, and not separately, replacing one with another.

• In the process of assembling the log house, tightly driving in, jute, cord or tow is laid, thereby ensuring that the crowns fit tightly to each other.
• The assembled structure is prepared, the joints are carefully cleaned from any kind of dirt, dust, debris, mold or decay.
• Large cracks are additionally filled with insulation.
• A thin layer of sealant is applied to the prepared surface and leveled.

Benefits of using a sealant

1. Wood is a material that changes its dimensions during operation. From this it follows that cracks and gaps expand and narrow. The sealant material is ductile, its physical properties allow a small margin of stretching, without separation from the base material.
2. Jute, tow or moss attract birds, and they in turn pull out the clogged material. The covering layer of sealant protects a heater from falling out.
3. Insects also do not encroach on the insulation elements, since the sealant is not edible for them.
4. No matter how tightly the tow is laid in the seams, it will not provide a complete seal. A properly applied covering layer will prevent cold air from entering the house and let warm air out.

All of these components are easy to use and, if desired, can be used to restore the integrity of the logs with your own hands.

Any buildings made of wood (for example, a cottage or a bathhouse) necessarily need a reliable sealing of seams, cracks and intervents cracks between the timber and the logs. Some old-fashioned seal them with caulking, but many choose a sealant for the log house, which is used during the construction period, as well as after the structure has completely shrunk.

1. The material must be plastic - this is the most important requirement for it. When the sealant dries, it becomes elastic, durable (it can elongate up to 300% when broken). If the frame shrinks, the seam repeats all its movements.

2. Seam sealer is harmless to health. Manufacturers guarantee its safety, non-toxicity.

3. Durability. Its service life reaches 20-25 years. But there are brands that last much longer. For example, "Terma Chink" from Russian manufacturer"Oliva" reliably protects for 30 years.

4. Sealants protect the log house, its joints from mold, rot, harmful effects environment for a long time.

5. This material is fully UV resistant.

6. The sealant has excellent thermal insulation and vapor permeability properties. That is, keeping the house warm, it gives free access fresh air, moisture vapor, log house "breathes".

7. Does not change its parameters at temperatures from -50 to +70 degrees Celsius. This means that it can be used in different climatic zones. It will also serve perfectly if the bath requires repair, in the steam room of which high temperatures almost constantly “live”.

8. Working with it does not require special skills, being performed much faster than caulking.

9. Old seams will not need to be removed if any damage is found. It will be enough to apply a new layer on the surface with flaws.

10. Seams sealed with modern sealants are aesthetic. You can buy material of any color (or paint it after drying acrylic paint), accurately choosing the tone of the wood from which the frame is made.

How to work with sealant?

First, the surface must be carefully prepared by removing dust and sanding wood fibers. Then the seams are insulated with a special tape laid between the joints. It is able to increase its size by almost 5 times. In contact with air, the tape swells, expands, filling the gaps, all the cracks in the log house. The sealant does not stick to it, but it has high adhesion to the wood, fixing on it at 2 points. And, thanks to its elasticity, it will then shrink - stretch, simultaneously with the seasonal movement of the tree, without losing its integrity.

The sealing of the seams of the log cabin of the bath with a sealant is carried out with a construction gun or a spray nozzle. If the bath requires perfect work, construction tape or masking tape is glued to the logs. This is done to protect surfaces from excess sealant. The result is beautiful even seams and clean lumber.

The advantage of this method is the speed of work. Processing a log house takes only a few hours. Numerous reviews of builders speak of the excellent properties of sealants, their durability, and ease of use.

Sealants are produced in buckets, briquettes, tapes, tubes of different weights. For long seams, it is more convenient to buy tape. The price of foreign-made materials is several times more expensive than that of domestic counterparts. You can compare their cost (for convenience, taken for 1 kilogram) according to the table:

The birthplace of these "assistants" for sealing the seams is the United States. Later, their release was established by the countries of Europe and Russia. Each company uses identical raw materials - acrylic base. It is produced by several large chemical plants. Russian sealants are famous for their decent quality, so it is not necessary to choose the material that has the highest cost. It is only important not to buy a fake, the production technology of which has been violated.

Sealant for a log house: properties, application technology, prices

Features of working with sealants for wood. The cost of products of different brands per 1 kg: Perma-Chink, Weatherall, Remmers, Neomid, VGT, etc.

Sealants for sealing seams in a wooden house

In houses made of logs and timber natural humidity cracks appear very often, it is distinguishing feature material. During shrinkage, the outer layers lose moisture much faster than the inner ones, which is why they also shrink much more, and cracks are the result of excessive tension on the outer layers. In an article about how to repair cracks in log cabins, we talked about various ways sealing cracks in logs or timber, including using sealants. In this article, we will talk about the most popular wood sealants, their price and the reviews of those who used them to seal cracks in a log house.

Popular sealants for timber and logs

Here is a list of sealants that are most popular among log cabin owners:

1. Perma Chink.
2. Remmers ACRYL100.
3. Sazilast STIZ-A, V.
4. Mapei Silwood.
5. PENOSIL.
6. A mixture of PVA with sawdust.

Differences between sealants for wood

The main two parameters that distinguish all the sealants described above are elasticity and price. American sealant Perma Chink- the absolute leader in elasticity, but also the most expensive. Even the cheapest Penosil and Silwood have sufficient elasticity to last 3-7 years without problems. After all, elasticity is necessary so that the sealant can increase and shrink along with the crack, which becomes smaller during summer shrinkage, and expands in autumn and winter, because wood absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.

Insufficient elasticity, less than that of the sealants described above, leads to the fact that the material cracks in winter. Often, cheap Russian and European sealants for wood, as well as materials intended for interior work, behave this way. Such sealants are not designed for large temperature fluctuations, therefore they do not tolerate frost well.

Which sealant is better to choose

When starting to seal cracks, you need to choose the sealant that best suits your conditions. If you have to seal cracks over a large area, then it makes sense to choose inexpensive Silwood sealants from Mapei or Penosil. If you are going to repair a utility room, garage, barn or any other structure made of timber or logs that does not require careful color matching, then the best choice is a mixture of sawdust and PVA. You can take sawdust for free or very cheaply at the nearest carpentry shop or sawmill. If you heat the stove with wood, you can file the sawdust yourself.

Having decided on the brand of sealant, choose between buying a large capacity (15-19 liters), a medium capacity (1-5 liters) or a low capacity (up to 1 liter). The purchase of sealant in containers of large volumes will save up to 20%, compared with the material in small containers. However, the purchase of even one large capacity is justified only if you can work out at least 95% of the sealant. It is known from experience that a 15-20 liter container of sealant is enough to seal 50-150 meters of cracks 2 cm wide, if a sealant made of tow, foamed cellophane, isolon or polyethylene is placed under the sealant.

Equally important is the choice of the correct color of the sealant. After all, what less color the sealant is different from the color of the log house, the more beautiful the repaired cracks will look. Moreover, all manufacturers provide at least 6 different colors sealant, corresponding to different types of wood. If, after repairing cracks, you will cover the log house with paint, then you can use a sealant of any color.

Prices for sealants for seams

Below we have provided approximate cost materials from various manufacturers in tubes and containers of 19–20 liters. This will help you estimate the cost of the material needed to seal the cracks. However, due to inflation and the unpredictable exchange rate of the ruble, we cannot guarantee that prices in your area will not differ greatly from those indicated here.

the cost of the tube is 300 grams

the cost of a can of 19-20 liters

Neomid Warm House Mineral Professional.

Sazilast STIZ-A, V.

A mixture of PVA with sawdust.

At various construction forums, there are directly opposite assessments of the same material. The main dissatisfaction is the very high cost of sealants, especially if they fill a deep crack, neglecting caulking or the use of various polymer seals. A large number of negative reviews associated with the use of counterfeit or counterfeit sealants. Often such a sealant cracks and spills out in the first winter.

An objective comparison of sealants by those who used different materials comes down to the fact that the expensive American Perma-Chink has no advantages even compared to even inexpensive Penosil. Both sealants effectively seal cracks, if the technology is followed, then the patch lasts at least 5 years. A mixture of PVA with sawdust does not inspire confidence among those who have never worked with these materials before. If a person happened to glue wood with the help of PVA, then he often prefers the use of this tool to others. Moreover, the use of sawdust, the color of which corresponds to the timber, allows you to create a patch that is not noticeable at all from afar.

Sealant for seams and cracks in a wooden house - which is better?

How to choose a sealant for seams and cracks in a wooden house? Overview of manufacturers and prices for sealants for wooden house

Choosing a sealant for a log: current varieties and features of their application

An important stage in the construction of wooden houses is the thermal insulation and sealing of the interventional gap. And if tow was traditionally used for these purposes, today a fundamentally new tool has appeared on the market - sealant for logs.

In this article, we will consider what is preferable to use - the usual tow or special formulations. In addition, we will talk about the composition of sealants and how to use them.

Applying and smoothing acrylic composition

But, before proceeding to the story of the reasonable characteristics of these tools, let's find out whether it is necessary to seal the interventional gaps and what are the reasons for using special seals.

Reasons to use interventional seals

Scheme for sealing cracks and cracks

Technological gaps between the log crowns are a normal phenomenon that cannot be avoided when carrying out construction works. The presence of cracks, on the one hand, is explained by the imperfectly flat surface of the logs, and on the other hand, by the deformation of the lumber in the process of shrinkage and shrinkage.

Comparison of energy efficiency of conventional log walls and thermally insulated walls

What are the reasons for doing this work?

• Firstly, the presence of uninsulated gaps provokes significant heat losses, which is especially noticeable in heating season when it bleeds from the walls.
• Secondly, mezhventsovye gaps are the optimal habitat for various microorganisms, including fungus and insects. The situation is aggravated by the fact that in the event of temperature changes, moisture condenses in the gaps, which provokes an intensive spread of mold infections and decay.
• Thirdly, the presence of unsealed gaps makes the wall of the house less stable, which can lead to its subsequent deformations during subsequent operation.

So, we are convinced that there are reasons for the timely sealing of technological gaps. It remains to decide on the current sealing methods and materials that can be used for these purposes.

Seals and sealants

Jute tape in the interventional gap

The range of tools that can be used to seal interventional gaps are divided into two main categories:

• Sealants, which include tow jute tape and similar materials of vegetable and synthetic origin, are laid between logs during construction work and / or plugged into cracks during caulking of finished walls.

In the photo, synthetic sealants for sealing seams

The use of sealants is a traditional practice that allows you to achieve good heat and sound insulation properties for walls treated in this way. However, the use of such means has a number of disadvantages.

For example, jute tape becomes caked over time and loses its original thermal insulation properties. In addition, caulking cracks with tow is a labor-intensive and long-term process.

• Sealant for sealing joints between logs is a wide range of compounds that are distinguished by a set of components used in production, consistency, degree of elasticity after drying, resistance to environmental factors, resistance to biological factors and of course the price.

Regardless of which sealant you choose to use, this product will have many advantages over traditional caulking sealants. Among the advantages, we note the simplicity and short deadlines for applying with your own hands, the elasticity of the composition and, as a result, greater durability, an attractive appearance of the wall due to the low visibility of a properly selected sealant.

So, we got acquainted with the main characteristics of the means that can be used to seal interventional seams. Let us consider in more detail what modifications the assortment of sealants is presented on the market.

Types of sealants and their distinctive properties

Standard packing of acrylic interventional sealants

Currently, a wide range of sealants prepared on various bases and, as a result, possessing a number of distinctive qualities, is on sale.

Only the correct choice of a suitable composition will achieve desired result when sealing technological gaps. If the product is chosen incorrectly, the seal may have a short service life and soon the sealing of the gaps will have to be repeated.

So, what products are on sale and which of them can be used to finish wooden building objects?

First of all, all sealants are divided into two main categories:

• One-component products - are sold in the form of ready-to-use gel-like materials, sealed in tubes. The use of a ready-made tool is characterized by additional convenience and ease of use.
• Two-component products go on sale in the form of the main component and hardener. These compositions are prepared immediately before application, that is, the components are mixed in the required proportions, and then used for their intended purpose.

Important: Belonging to one of the previously listed categories does not indicate a high or, conversely, low quality of the purchased product. It simply indicates a different composition and different methods of pre-operational preparation.

On the this moment single-component compositions are most widely used. However, this is not surprising, because it is much easier to insert a tube into a mounting gun and get to work than to mix the base and hardener and only after that proceed with the task.

Sealants can be selected by color

According to the type of base used, the products on sale are divided into the following categories:

• Acrylic sealant for sealing rounded logs has been used for several years and has earned the recognition of many experts.

Among the advantages of acrylic compositions, we note the low cost and a high degree adhesion to porous materials. The applied and dried product can be processed with sandpaper, and then coated with various paints and varnishes.

However, the compositions acrylic base have many disadvantages, including a low degree of hydrophobicity and, as a result, poor resistance to precipitation. Moreover, acrylic sealant, as a result of long-term operation, begins to crumble. Therefore, the use of such compounds is allowed only in the interior.

• Polyurethane sealant is a universal product that is equally suitable for both external and interior decoration log buildings. Means differs in the increased hydrophobicity and resistance to an atmospheric precipitation. The agent is distinguished by adhesion sufficient for application both on wood and on jute tape.

Polyurethane after drying long time retains elasticity and does not crack. Like the acrylic counterpart, this sealant paints well with most types of paints and varnishes.

• Bituminous mastic is a liquid solution that is applied to the surface of lumber in order to ensure their waterproofing.

Unfortunately, the tool, due to the presence of bitumen, is painted black, and therefore it cannot be used for grouting joints. On the other side, bituminous mastic used in the construction of wooden houses. The strip foundation is covered with mastic to prevent direct contact between wood and concrete.

• Silicone sealant is perhaps the most popular and sought-after solution for sealing gaps up to 3 mm wide. The tool is highly elastic even after complete drying, so this gel can be used to treat the walls of the house during the shrinkage process.

Important: Silicone gel is difficult to paint with traditional paints and varnishes. Therefore, when choosing means for applying the bottom to the wood surface, we prefer transparent modifications.

Silicone-based sealants, in turn, are divided into two categories: neutral and acetic (acidic).

It is not difficult to distinguish one product from another, the neutral type of sealant does not have a pronounced odor, while the acetic analogue smells strongly of vinegar. The neutral modification is mainly used for working with metal, while it is better to apply acetic compounds on wood, which are characterized by better adhesion to the porous structure.

Application features

Application of a warm seam Eurotex

Instructions for the use of sealants are not particularly difficult.

• We grind the surface to be treated. Doing it with Angular grinder Angle grinder with a petal disk. We pass with a disk along the logs, removing up to 3 mm of the surface in one pass.
• Using a wire nozzle in the form of a brush, we finally level the surface making it smooth.
• We remove all dust from the recesses with a vacuum cleaner.
• With a non-fluffy rag soaked in thinner, we wipe the joints between the logs in order to remove the remnants of sawdust and dirt.

Tube with sealant in mounting gun

• We install the tube with sealant in a special mounting gun and press it with a piston.
• By pressing the trigger, we press the piston, squeezing out an even strip of gel.
• After going along the entire length of the log, we pull the piston of the gun 1 cm back so that the sealant does not flow out of the tube.
• We return to the starting position and coat the applied gel so that it lies in the recess in an even layer.

Now you know what a sealant is for log house and how to apply it.

Sealant for a log: a video instruction for sealing seams in a house with your own hands, a photo and a price

Sealant for a log: a video instruction for sealing seams in a house with your own hands, a photo and a price

Sealant for sealing joints in a log house

Over time, a caulk of natural materials falls into disrepair. Moss and tow have long been abandoned in favor of jute. It is not hygroscopic and is of no interest to rodents and birds. However, it also needs to be updated from time to time.

Recently, more effective materials have appeared on the market - sealants for rounded logs. They are not only a reliable obstacle to drafts and cold, but also perform decorative functions.

Pros and cons of sealing a log house

Modern industry has created a lot of options for plastic raw materials for reliable closing of interventional seams. Acrylic, silicone, containing all kinds of additives and colors, they make the caulk flawless. Their advantages are as follows:

1. Process speed. If you caulk the seams with jute or tow, you can get bogged down in the process for several weeks, this directly depends on the design of the log house: you need to act carefully so as not to move the crowns themselves with your own efforts. Often, venerable carpenters straighten lopsided logs in this way.

When dealing with sealant, the job can be completed in a day, of course, subject to the right weather. Should be dry and cool. It is not difficult to use a pistol, and an amateur will cope with the job.

• The plasticity of the composition. This is an excellent quality for a building subject to constant shrinkage. You can not be afraid of the seam falling out of the joint or temperature changes at which it will crack. Important condition: Exterior wood sealer must be carefully selected, because each type has its own purpose and, if applied incorrectly, you can get the worst result.
• Durability. The service life of the seam in some cases reaches 20 years, but even if the limit is reached after 10 years, this is much longer than caulking. Jute fiber will have to be replaced after five years of use, and tow even earlier. Slots and seams should be plugged as defects appear in the log house, and you can’t pull it. Therefore, regular preventive maintenance and partial repairs, even a sealed seam, will help to leave the log house in its original state for a long time.
• Wood protection. The use of silicone or acrylic sealants will make the interventional grooves practically inaccessible to moisture, and dampness is the main enemy of wood. As a result, mold and fungus will not appear on the seams, the logs will not begin to rot, and the life of the house itself will increase.

In addition, the sealant wooden seams made in compliance with all sanitary norms and rules and is safe for humans. Some of them, for example, silicone ones, have a sharp acetic smell during operation, which is eliminated over time.

There is no remedy without flaws. Sealants have them too. For example:

• Some species do not tolerate temperature extremes. For example, acrylic wood sealant is used only for internal caulking, in rooms where the temperature is more or less stable. In the cold, it cracks and crumbles.
• Silicone sealants are difficult to remove from the surface because the material has good adhesion. This means that you should act carefully and immediately remove sloppy blunders when working.
• Speaking about the absolute safety of the sealant, it is important to remember that only branded options have this quality. An unknown manufacturer, as a rule, sins by making compositions that are not according to the standard.

For each type of work, outdoor or indoor, you should select the appropriate type of paste, otherwise there will be no benefit from plastic caulking at home. Their cost varies. Having found out the approximate price of one cylinder, you can solve the question: caulk or sealant for a house made of logs? What will be more profitable?

Types of compositions and their application

Several types are popular in the caulking process:

Acrylic. Differs in the plastic balanced consistence, uniform color, ease of drawing. With it, the log house also receives aesthetic appeal.

They operate with a tuba with a special pistol. The tip of the vial is cut off at the desired angle, it will close the desired width of the seam, and the composition is applied under pressure into the interventional space. Without waiting for complete drying, with a spatula at a right angle to the log, smooth the mass, immediately wiping the drips.

Silicone. This sealant is suitable for interventional seams of a wooden house on the outer walls of a log house, with the condition that the crowns above the second row will be sealed.

This is due to the fact that mold may appear on the seams due to the constant presence of dampness, and the wood will begin to rot around the sealant. They apply it in the manner described above, using gloves and even a respirator for their own protection, because it has a strong smell.

bituminous sealants. They do an excellent job with moisture, but at the same time they clog the natural capillaries of wood, which makes it stop breathing. Bitumen-based sealant can only be used in really damp places and in no case on the ends of logs.

If, nevertheless, sealing is carried out, then in the future the log will be covered with longitudinal cracks. Natural moisture needs an outlet, and wood will solve this problem in its own way.

Polyurethane. Not to be confused with mounting foam! It cannot be used for sealing wood at all, since the porous surface will provoke stagnation of water inside, which will inevitably lead first to the destruction of the foam, and then to the house made of logs with this type of sealant.

The polyurethane composition is absolutely moisture resistant, not letting in frost or drafts. It has no competitors in efficiency, which is why it has such a cost.

Sealants for interventional seams of a wooden house: what better sealant or caulk

Sealant for sealing joints in a log house

What to do if there are cracks in the logs, timber or block house? What are the materials for their termination and how to use them correctly? Is it possible to do it yourself? You will find answers to these and many other questions, as well as professional advice, in this article.

A hundred years ago, a log house was the most popular option for housing construction. In our forest-rich area, towers and huts have been built from time immemorial with the help of an ax and a saw, shifting hand-hewn logs with moss. The craftsmen reached perfection in working with wood, but rapid progress gave people new materials, made it possible to calibrate timber and cylinder logs. Today, houses made of timber or logs are “environmentally friendly antiquity”, accessible to the majority. However, the tree remained a tree, and the problems that the owners faced hundreds of years ago are still relevant today. Only the ways to solve them have changed. This will be discussed.

Interesting fact. What is the difference between a tower and a hut? The hut has only one floor. Everything that had more than one floor was called a tower.

Longitudinal cracks in wood

What you should know in advance when choosing a wooden house:

1. For all natural benefits the tree retains natural flaws - hygroscopicity, susceptibility to decomposition, oxidation of the outer layer, torsion, drying out, shrinkage, etc.
2. For all the cases listed above, there are modern "antidotes".
3. The log house requires constant care during operation. Miscellaneous works held at different intervals (1/3/5/10 seasons).
4. A house made of logs or timber will retain enough heat only in mild winters (up to -15 at normal humidity). For living in more cold period insulation or enhanced heating will be required.
5. The tree is afraid of wind, moisture and sun. So perfect place for a wooden house - natural environment (woodland).
6. Wood has the highest fire hazard of all building materials (for walls).

Read more about the construction of log houses in the articles: “Choosing a log house for a wooden house”, “Do you want a good house? Choose: timber or log "," How to build the house of your dreams - glued laminated timber, material features ".

So, all the nuances are taken into account, the house is built or bought, and we are ready to deal with all the problems, bringing the appearance and performance to perfection.

Due to the fibrous structure, a log or timber has defects that propagate longitudinally. A transverse crack or dent occurs extremely rarely in the event of overload or rotting of the material. The log in such cases is not subject to repair, but to full or partial replacement.

Longitudinal cracks by location in the structure (direction) are divided into:

1. Direct. Approximately coincide with the axis of the log (beam).
2. Spiral (uneven). Does not match axis.
3. Segment. Irregular cracks with fiber transition.

In all cases, one selected method is used. As a rule, this is warming and subsequent sealing of the sinus. This combined method is the simplest and most affordable to date. It is suitable for cracks with an opening width of 5 mm. Smaller defects are sealed with a special sealant. The described method is perfect for a block house.

Question. Why not seal all the cracks with only sealant?

Answer. It will be very expensive due to the high consumption of sealant. At the same time, its thermal insulation properties are an order of magnitude lower than the insulation.

What you need:

1. Heat-insulating filler. It can be a special thermal harness or just a strip of foam rubber.
2. Sealant, professional gun.
3. Knives, metal scrapers.
4. Hand sprayer with water.
5. Pieces of foam rubber, rags.

Attention! Before starting work, make sure that the wall material is dry (normal humidity). Treat the internal cavities with an antiseptic.

Operating procedure:

1. We clean the edges of the crack from sawdust, loose wood, wood chips.

2. We fill the cavity with a thermal harness (foam rubber). Outside, ½-¼ cracks remain for laying the sealant.

Attention! If you are using foam rubber, do not tamp it hard. Any insulation in a compressed state loses its properties. The thermal harness is not subject to crushing.

3. We put the sealant in the bosom.

4. Smooth the sealant along the edges with a foam brush so that a continuous smooth surface is obtained. For the best effect, you can soak the sealant with water from a spray bottle.

Attention! Don't do it with your finger. The quality will be low, but the risk of getting a splinter will be high.

5. We remove the remnants of the sealant from the surface with a rag.

6. The exposure time for further processing is indicated in the instructions.

The choice of sealant is the most critical part of this work, if you do it yourself or "problem good master» resolved. An experienced specialist will advise suitable option. Most of these products are universal - suitable for any type of work. "Internal" sealants, as a rule, differ slightly in price from "external". The companies producing them have an assortment of related products - thermal harness, felt.

Sealants for cracks and joints of logs and timber:

Name, manufacturer	Release form	Unit price, rub.	Consumption, g / rm. m*	The cost of processing 1 running. m, rub.
NEOMID Teply Dom Wood Professional, Russia	Cartridge 310 ml (420 g)	200	70	25
	File package 600 ml (815 g)	360
	Bucket 15 kg	5400
EUROTEX joint sealant for wood NPP Rogneda, Russia	Bucket 3 kg	1100	170	54
	Bucket 6 kg	2000
	Bucket 25 kg	8000
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	File package 600 ml (815 g)	240	75	52
	Bucket 15 kg	3500
Therma-Chink Accent, Russia	Cartridge 400 g	280	70	28
	Tube 900 g	360
	Bucket 3 kg	1200
	Bucket 6 kg	2350
	Bucket 7 kg	2700
	Bucket 15 kg	5800
PermaChink, USA	Cartridge (probe) 325 ml	800	63	110
	Bucket 19 l	19000

* - consumption is indicated per 1 meter of a running joint 10 mm wide and 5 mm deep (0.5 cm 2)

Question. And yet, what is the difference between a thermal harness and a simple foam rubber?

Answer. Condensation can accumulate in the pores of the foam rubber and eventually destroy the material.

Thermal harnesses are made of polyethylene, are universal and can be used with any sealant. Energoflex sealing cords are the most convenient and popular type of this material. It is produced by different companies, but the name "Energoflex" is used by almost everyone.

Sealing cords (bundles):

Name	Manufacturer	Diameter, mm	Price 1 line m	Release form
Cord Energoflex	Russia	6	5	Bay 800 m
		20	20	Bay 150 m
	Belgium	6	6	Bay 1500 m
		8	6,5	Bay 900 m
wood security	Russia	6	5	Box 150-450 m
		10	9	Box 150-450 m
		20	21	Box 150-450 m
Vilaterm "Tilit"	Russia	6	2,9	Packing 800 m
		8	3.7	Packing 800 m
		20	7,5	Packing 150 m

In houses made of long timber or logs, in addition to natural cracks in solid wood, horizontal gaps appear at the junctions of elements. Even if the initial laying is done with high quality, it still happens due to natural reasons - the shrinkage of the tree. Measures to prevent problems associated with this phenomenon are taken depending on the material itself.

Slots at the junction of the calibrated timber

Here it is reasonable to mention the main advantage of a calibrated beam over a log. The presence of a tongue-and-groove system on the longitudinal edges of the beam reduces to zero the possibility of through passage of air. However, opening the joint even to a shallow depth allows winter period cold air to pass into the wall, which contributes to the formation of condensate (cold bridge). Humidified air penetrates there in spring and autumn. The tree takes in moisture, and the processes of oxidation and decay can begin.

The modern method of blocking the joints of wooden log cabins looks the same as for slots. In this case, the same materials are used - sealant and Energoflex cord. Sealing materials for log cabins from different companies are usually labeled with the name "Warm Seam".

Cracks at the junction of logs

With a log, the situation is somewhat more complicated than with a bar. Here, in the case of severe shrinkage, through passages of air can occur. Typically, this problem occurs in homes that have not received prophylaxis at the right time. The log dries out, a cold one enters through the expanded joint. wet air, cushioning material (felt, moss, tow, jute) is destroyed and weathered. In this case, the load from the crowns in this place is unevenly distributed, which can lead to distortions.

In order to correct the situation, you need to caulk the joint.

Caulking is a dry method of filling joints between wood elements. This procedure came to us unchanged after thousands of years: a rope or tow hammered into a gap became a stronghold of navigation and wooden housing construction. Previously, for sealing, the material was impregnated with a hydrophobic composition - tar, resin and oils.

When insulating the seams, the caulked material is sealed on top with a sealed layer that does not conduct moisture. Therefore, there is no need for its additional hydrophobization.

What you need:

1. Spatula with hammer protection.
2. Hammer 500-800 g.
3. Jute, felt, tow.
4. Masking tape (optional).
5. Further - points from the description of crack sealing (except for the first one).

Operating procedure:

1. Using a spatula, the material is driven into the joint to a state of elasticity.
2. If desired, the edges of the joint are pasted over with masking tape.

Attention! In no case should not caulk cracks. This will lead to an increase in stress and crack propagation. Only light compaction is allowed.

The described sealing materials have a coefficient of (gradual) stretching up to 4. This allows the tree to "live" and at the same time does not depressurize joints and cracks. They are made on the basis of acrylic, non-toxic and subject to all types of processing - tinting, grinding, painting. The service life of sealants is usually from 20 years.

Opinions were divided. Who is right, what materials to use and how? Let's figure it out.

We use acrylic sealants from three manufacturers for sealing joints Ramsauer Austria, "Perma-Chink" America and "Neomid" Russia.

Sealing and sealing of seams in log cabins implies additional works: grinding, impregnation, caulking, sealing.

The cost of work includes:

1. wall sanding – 250/300 r/m2 sanding is optional, we recommend sanded walls look more aesthetically pleasing.

2. Impregnation logs 50r 1m2, it is not necessary to impregnate, we recommend, it will be difficult to impregnate after sealing.

3. Caulker improved 100 r/m, before sealing is performed in without fail.

4. Sealing seams 230r/m“Neomid” Russia (tube weight 700g), 250r/m“Ramsauer” Austria (tube weight 900g) , 320r/m“Perma-Chink” America (tube weight 430g) work + material: sealant, foam band, paper tape, spatulas, brushes, syringe gun.

5. Sealing seams just work 120r/m consumables are paid by the customer.

Important: in p. 1.4 the cost of the work is indicated together with consumables, in p. 2,3,5 The cost of work is indicated without consumables.

Advice: when concluding a contract for sealing or caulking of seams, write down the item without fail - “The sealing or caulking is considered completed if as a result of a thermal imaging survey no heat leaks were detected at the work sites”, negotiate with the contractor for sealing, caulking "under the thermal imager", this will help to weed out scammers and specialists who do not have the appropriate skills at the initial stage.

Seam sealing

Make sure to seal the seams with each method so you don't waste your money and be disappointed with the results.

Stages of sealing seams in a log house

The treatment of seams with sealant does not exclude caulking, but complements it. These are different methods of insulation in terms of efficiency and purpose. The right caulk serves as a heater. The disadvantage is the need, once every two or three years, to repeat it. The purpose of the sealant is to get rid of the labor-intensive process, to eliminate the interventional “cold bridges”, that is, to isolate from the wind.

Using sealant without insulation between the seams is a mistake. It will not blow through the walls, but it will not protect from the cold. Put on a raincoat in winter - you will not get wet, but you will freeze without a warm jacket. Therefore, under the sealant, the seams must be caulked - get a warm house, reduce heating costs. To please the result, follow the steps for sealing the seams in the log house without making mistakes:

If the log house is new and interventional insulation hangs between the logs, do not cut it, but hammer it into the seams.

With a lack of experience, it seems that he will not enter. This is not true. There is a lot of space in the grooves, so complete the caulking.

Clean the insulated seams from dust and debris. If the wood has been varnished or waxed, sand the surface. Use iron brushes (scratches will help the sealant grip better) or sandpaper. Impregnation must pass moisture. Check with the seller if the coating is compatible with the purchased product.

To get a warm seam, fasten an isolone tourniquet between the crowns. This will make the seam smooth and aesthetic in appearance. Save material consumption. Will increase the elasticity of the sealant as it requires two connection points instead of three.

For large cracks in the trunk, use tow soaked in drying oil, then seal. After one coat has dried, apply sealer again if necessary to level the surface of the log.

Observe the thickness and width of the applied substance, which is recommended by the manufacturer. Then the material will withstand the load when the logs are displaced, and will not collapse ahead of time.

Apply the sealant to a wet surface. Use acrylic with the addition of silicone or rubber. It is suitable for wood, as it has adhesion.

Level the seam with a wet spatula or brush. Depending on the consistency, the sealant is covered with a dried film in 10-15 minutes. To remove excess, use water (you can use mild soap).

To receive even seam use masking tape. Take it off immediately, don't wait for it to dry. Otherwise, do not peel off the sealant. This will keep the rest of the paste from rinsing off. Not every product will fit, please check first small area, how it works.

Purchase or rent an air gun - shorten the process by 5 times, save your nerves, time and expensive sealant. It doesn't say that hand tool unacceptable. It is more affordable, but harder to work with.

Observe the temperature regime. Make sure the sealed areas are not exposed to rain for the first 5 to 7 hours. Do not work under the scorching sun - the seams will crack. If it is + 15/19°С outside, morning and evening are preferable.

Note: Sealant application technique may vary by brand or gap size. But the principle is the same everywhere. Understand it - handle any product. Do not use your finger instead of a spatula: you will press the paste hard, reducing the breaking strength of the material. The result is peeling and cracking. Make the volume of the seam in accordance with the parameters specified by the manufacturer.

Choosing materials for sealing

The choice of sealant causes difficulties - you have to pay attention to prices. It is impossible to check the condition of a sealant that has served for 10 years. Assurances that for a year or two he is holding up perfectly is not an indicator. There is no guarantee that in 5 - 8 years it will not let you down. There are no examples. As an option: take samples from the company, test for quality.

For you need an acrylic-based sealant, with the addition of rubber or silicone. The moisture included in the composition is evenly absorbed into the surface, connecting with the wood. Dry wood is moistened. Raw is optional.

Pay attention to consistency. Liquid pastes are easier to work with, but smudges occur. Drying, the seam decreases in volume. With this in mind, keep the recommended seam parameters.

Due to the high price of imported materials, purchase Russian products that have been tested in research institutes. These are Neomid, Atacamast, Accent ... We do not recommend Abris, consumer reviews are negative.

Make sure the sealant is designed for wood surfaces. Use the printed product quickly, protect from contact with air - the mixture loses its physical properties.

Purchase materials in specialized stores so as not to buy a fake product. Ask for certification documents, check compliance with GOST, demand warranty cards, keep receipts.

Check the expiration date. For acrylic sealants, it is 12 - 15 months. For silicone - 2 years. If a release date is not specified, the quality of expired materials is recognized as follows:
acrylic begins to dry in the package, loses elasticity;
silicone, on the contrary, ceases to dry at all.

When working with sealants, read the manufacturer's instructions. Drying time is indicated. It reaches up to 3 weeks, so do not be surprised when after 5 - 7 days you will find a fresh consistency under the hardened film. This is fine.

By purchasing Neomid brand sealant ( Warm house) Wood, please note that after drying it becomes hard, has a low elongation coefficient. Therefore, for a log house that has not fully shrunk, do not use. In this case, give preference to Wepost Wood or Weatherall.

To prevent the sealant from peeling off after drying, the surface of the logs is polished. Follow the instructions, adhesion to the wood is important. When choosing a product, pay attention to the characteristics.

Please note that when indicating the percentage extensibility of the material, the numbers are voiced, but they do not specify how the tests were carried out. The gap indicators on the shoulder blades and seams are different, so they should be trusted with caution.

Often, manufacturers do not say that an update is required to extend the life of the seal ... This is nonsense, but such is the technique of operating some materials. Treat the areas again: in three, five years.

Using the table, compare the performance of sealants. The expensive ones are considered the best. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, you need to consult with a specialist. Based on the parameters of the log house (shrinkage, wood, coating, diameter, purpose of sealing, etc.), a recommendation is given. You can't give everyone the same advice.

Popular projects on our website

Comparative table of sealants

Note: When hiring professionals to process the seams of a log house, do not rush to buy sealant. They work with their materials. The main thing is to make sure that it is suitable for the home.

The ratio of heat loss to the cost of grouting work (saving options)

Through the thermal imager it is clear that interventional seams, even with the correct caulking, especially in the corners of the log house, draw heat. By eliminating "cold bridges" with the help of insulation and sealing, they achieve a reduction in heating costs. The house becomes warm - the need to heat in the previous mode disappears.

Types of sealants for inter-log joints

Only when caulking the seams, the wall still remains cold to the touch. Using a sealant from the outside, access to cold air is blocked. The wall heated inside the room does not cool down, the temperature regime increases sharply. The difference before sealing and after is palpable. You stop heating the street.

It makes no sense to talk about numbers, indicating the cost of sealing seams - they are different. But we confirm that the consumption of energy resources will be halved. With a caveat - the insulation and sealing of the seams are done correctly. If matched quality materials they will last 15-30 years. Calculate for yourself how much you save on heating during this time.

What you can save on:

Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so you first need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study the methods of caulking, and correctly select interventional insulation.

The caulking of the log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after the erection and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with the laying of insulation during the assembly of walls or a one-time performance of work on completion of construction.

1 way

Perform the laying of the lower row of logs on the base.

Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, a second crown is laid, and again a layer of insulation. So repeat to the very top of the log house. After all the work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the sealant are hammered into the gaps between the bars with the help of caulks.

2 way

Caulking begins after the installation of the roofing system on the frame. Insulation (best of all, tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is stuffed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are tucked in, a roller is formed from them and hammered into the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on to the top of the structure.

The second stage of caulking is performed after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and tightly hammered inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it around the perimeter of the log house.

You cannot first caulk one wall, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the inside to avoid distortions of the structure. The insulation raises the log house by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after the construction. During this time, the wood shrinks completely, and new gaps form.

There are two ways of caulking - "in a set" and "in a stretch". The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used for primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.

To work, you need tools - a set of caulks, a road builder and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make their own from hardwood.

Name	Description	What is it used for
	Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm	The main tool for sealing gaps between crowns
	Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm	It is used for sealing joints in corners and rounded sections of the log house
	Caulking triangular shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm	Tool for forming even rolls from twisted strands of sealant
	Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide	Expands narrow gaps, which provides more convenient filling with insulation
	wooden hammer	Used for stuffing the sealant with wooden caulks

Caulker blades should not be sharp, otherwise, when clogging the material, they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and pull back out of the seams.

Materials for caulking

As interventional heaters use the following materials:

• red and white moss;
• tow;
• felt;
• jute;
• lnovatin.

Material type	Description
	Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. At self-harvesting raw materials, the cost of warming the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected late autumn when there are no snails and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted out, clods of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. It is not necessary to dry strongly, otherwise the stems become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to facilitate styling. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: Difficult to find commercially, requires bird protection, requires pre-treatment before laying
	The tow is suitable for the primary caulking of the log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality is divided into bale and roll (tape). Roll consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to drive between the rims. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Cons: the complexity of laying, not aesthetic appearance seams after caulking.
	Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log cabins. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and vegetable fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not let in odors, provides good sound insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and environmentally friendly. Cons: prone to rotting, easily damaged by moths
	Traditional heaters are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is produced in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, as well as in the form of a tape. Ribbon jute is soft and pliable, evenly compacted, used for both primary and re-caulking. Jute fibers and ropes are more convenient to use after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, it is not damaged by moths and other insects, it does not rot, it provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material quickly caking, short service life.

Tow prices

Primary caulking "in stretch"

The whole process is divided into two stages - the laying of insulation between the logs during the construction of the log house and the caulk itself. The insulation is laid after the installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.

They take a large bunch of moss and lay it with fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close next to each other.

The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of the same thickness. Wood should not shine through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put in excess than not to report, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.

If tape insulation is used, the installation is much easier and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and fixed with staples of a construction stapler. When the tape ends, the new segment is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row along the perimeter is covered with insulation, the installation of the second crown is performed.

So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, the walls can be caulked.

The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of the log house

It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then it is much faster to form a roller out of it. When twisting the material, it should be slightly stretched along the seam, which contributes to greater compaction and uniform distribution insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not enough to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After that, the thickened roller is hammered into the gap.

If during the construction process the insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It must be applied to the seams with fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the desired density, the material will not be able to firmly fix itself and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Too short edges are difficult to tuck, respectively, the quality of caulking will be low.

1. The edge of the tape is laid on the ground near the corner of the log house and retreat along the wall, unwinding the roll. You can’t stretch the material, it should just lie in an even strip on the ground. It is very important that the tape does not twist during the unwinding process. Having reached the second corner, the roll is also left to lie, nothing is cut off yet.

   

2. They return to the beginning of the tape, take it by the edge and put it over the seam. With a caulking blade, the tape is pressed in the middle, leaving the edges to protrude by 5-7 cm. In this way, the entire interventional seam passes.

   

   We insert the insulation into the seam

3. Measure another 25-30 cm of the tape and only then cut it off the roll. This margin will allow you to more tightly clog the grooves without adding insulation.
4. Now little by little, straightening and tucking the edges of the material, they begin to caulk the seam. The tape should completely hide in the gap between the logs along with the stock.

   

5. As a rule, one layer of tape is not enough for high-quality filling, so everything will have to be repeated two or even three more times.
6. The finished seam should protrude from the grooves by no more than 3-4 mm and be of uniform thickness.

   

Caulking prices

caulk

If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking "in a set" is used. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow, which are wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.

Start from the edge of the lower crown:

• clear the gap, removing chipped chips and debris;
• unwind a small amount of cord, fold it in the form of loops and push it into the gap with a caulk;
• seal the loops first at the top of the gap, then at the bottom;
• impose another strand on top, now without loops, and level with a road builder.

Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The denser the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, birds can pull the sealant apart. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in the same way.

For a decorative log house, a jute cord can be hammered along the entire length of the seams.

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked separately after the walls are completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.

Since the seams between the logs have a semicircular shape at the corners, you will need a crooked caulk.

Step 1. The tape is placed vertically. They take it by the edge, apply it to the fillet seam and press it inward with a caulk. They step back a little and again drive the material into the gap.

Step 2 As soon as the insulation is a little fixed, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and hammer them deeper into the cracks.

Step 3 After filling and leveling the upper seam, they move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened, and slightly stretched so that it lies more evenly.

This is how the entire corner is consistently compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the look will be sloppy.

Video - How to caulk the corner of a log house

Caulking a log house with sealants

The caulking of the log house with special sealants is gaining popularity, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing. If the log house is made of rounded logs or glued beams, and jute is laid as a heater between the crowns, only sealant and foam polyethylene tow can be used. The sealing of the seams is carried out not earlier than the shrinkage of the log house.

Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris, wiped dry with a rag.

Step 2 A primer-primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams with a brush or sprayer. If the work is carried out in winter, the primer must be chosen on a rubber basis, in the summer - on a water basis.

Step 3. After the primer has dried, a tourniquet of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.

Step 4 Apply sealant. Use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The latter option is very easy to use: on one side of the tape is removed protective film, applied to the seam, pressed by hand and rolled with a roller.

Step 5 After sealing all interventional joints, remove outer layer film for the sealant to cure. At the end, the joints are covered with a colorless varnish or a tinting composition is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.

When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed out and the excess removed with a damp cloth.

If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed in the traditional way, after which the seams are closed with a sealant. After such processing, the need for subsequent caulking disappears.

Video - How to caulk a log house