How to seal the seams between the logs inside the house. How is the sealing of the seams of a wooden house performed? What difficulties can you face when working independently?

Remove the protective tape.
Warm soap and water is sufficient for proper cleaning.
Keep from freezing.
The shelf life under this condition is 1 year.

Bunk and slot for your home. The rule of thumb is that if the gap between logarithmic courses is ¾ inch or less, you should use a caulk. If it is larger than ¾ inch, you must use a slot.

Are cracks and their consequences dangerous?

These products are designed to resist moving your home in these applications. To fill large holes, use the gripper rod. This makes the surface flat and allows the slit to stretch like a rubber band when applied correctly.

But first, I would like to go through the many advantages of such buildings, which made them so popular among our compatriots, and on a global scale as a whole. So, let's focus on the main ones:

Environmental friendliness. Houses made of natural materials, completely safe for the health of the people living in them. Moreover, a person in wooden houses gets sick less, has a higher body tone and vigor;
Wooden walls, with similar durability and strength, will be much thinner than their brick counterparts. So there is more space in such houses;
Wood is a very mediocre conductor of temperature. Thanks to this, in summer it is cool in such a dwelling, and in winter heat loss to the outside is minimal. Consequently, such a structure warms up faster, and less resources are spent on maintaining comfortable temperature conditions;
Wooden houses are lighter than concrete or brick ones, so the construction of a massive foundation is not required;
Wooden walls are very pleasing to the eye, so you can save a lot on finishing activities.

And this is only a small part of the advantages that such buildings have. Listing all or even most of them would be a very lengthy process. But already what is said above is enough to understand the reasons for the newly increased popularity of the tree. However, it is important that much of the above may not be available if the joints between the logs are not properly insulated.

A properly plastered or cut log house will be much more efficient to heat and cool. Gaps around windows, doors, between den paths, and in corners can rob your log home of comfort. An incorrectly installed or faulty caulk and gap is also one of the main causes of log rot.

Over time, with the movement of the magazine, the cone will fall through these checks and leave a crack in the hair between the wood and the plug, allowing water to seep into the checks. Because most of the hole is filled, the water cannot dry, causing broken rot.

How did our ancestors

Previously, when there were simply no technologically advanced insulating materials on the market, our ancestors in their old chopped houses used moss, hemp or tow. However, even now many people decide to use such authentic methods. Moreover, many masters are still talking about their exceptional effectiveness. Finally, the advantage is that in this case we are talking about natural materials that are safe for health.

How to close the gaps between the logs - natural materials

There are times when you must complete these checks, but they should be kept to a minimum. If there is a check that hits a window, door, or corner that allows wind, water, or bugs to get inside your home; you will need to fill them out. You must plan for inspection, spring and fall, and correct if necessary.

This keeps the check open to "breathe" according to nature and will stop any trap one might want to form. False houses can be built on site or pre-cut at the factory for delivery to the site. Some magazine makers can also customize their designs. Before designing or purchasing a harvested log house you need to consider the following energy efficiency factors.

Moss can be placed in the gaps between the logs without any additives. However, finding sphagnum in sufficient quantities today is not easy. As for tow or hemp, in this case the ideal solution is to add a solution of gypsum or cement to them. Moreover, some experienced craftsmen in this matter can tamp these materials into the slots so firmly that it will be no less difficult to stick an awl into them than into the wood itself.

In a log home, wood helps provide some insulation. Compared to a conventional timber wall, the log wall appears to be a significantly lower insulation system. Based on this alone, log walls do not satisfy most building codes"energy standards". However, how much a log building interacts with its surroundings depends largely on the climate. Because of its ability to store logarithms, its large mass can cause walls to perform significantly better in some climates than others.

Modern means of sealing cracks in wooden structures

There are no special means for sealing the seams between the logs, since sealants known to everyone are used for this. But not everyone is suitable for such work, and here's why.

Magazines act like "thermal batteries" and can, under the right circumstances, store heat during the day and release it gradually at night. Such climates usually exist in the temperate zones of the Earth between the 15th and 40th parallels. Minimization of air leakage in log houses.

How to make a caulk - competent laying between logs

False houses are prone to developing air leaks. Air-dried logs are still 15% to 20% water when a house is assembled or built. As the logs dry over the next few years, the logs shrink. The contraction and expansion of the logs opens up the gaps between the logs, creating air leaks that cause drafts and high heat requirements. To minimize air leakage, the logs must be seasoned for at least six months prior to construction.

Ordinary polyurethane foam is not suitable due to the constant, albeit small, mobility of the logs. Thus, the foam will only crack and flake over time. Silicone sealant is not suitable due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture well. And since the tree, as usual, does it very well, and also rots well, rot will necessarily form in those places of the log where there are problems with sufficient evaporation.

These are the best scaffolds that can be used to avoid this problem, in order of effectiveness. Cedar; spruce; pine; spruce; and larches. . Humidity control in log houses. Because trees absorb large amounts of water as they grow, tree cells can also easily absorb water once the wood has dried. For this reason, a log house is very hygroscopic - it can absorb water quickly. This contributes to the destruction of wood rot and insects. It is highly recommended to protect the magazines from any contact with water or moisture.

All of the above makes such sealants unsuitable for sealing joints between logs in wooden houses or barns. And ideal solution actually is the use of polyurethane sealants. The latter can be actively used, both inside and outside the building, as they perfectly tolerate temperature changes and retain their properties even in the most very coldy. Such sealants are excellent, unless we are talking about those that are sold in cylinders, they also tolerate the effects of solar radiation, without reducing their insulating properties even from the most serious doses of ultraviolet radiation.

One method of controlling moisture is to use only waterproofed and insecticide-treated logs. Reapply these treatments every few years for home life. Generous roof overhangs, properly sized gutters and downspouts, and drainage plains around the home are also critical to moisture control.

Compliance with energy code requirements for log houses. However, several states, including Pennsylvania, Maine, and South Carolina, have phased out log homes from energy regulatory requirements. Other states, such as Washington, have approved "mandatory packages" for various log sizes, but these may or may not make sense in terms of energy efficiency. The American Society for Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers 2 contains a thermal mass that may facilitate approval in those states that base their codes on this standard.

What needs to be placed under the sealant

First of all, it should be noted that there can be very, very many seams in a wooden frame - several tens and hundreds. However, there can be quite a lot of space between them. If you start to clog all this with sealant, you will get too much consumption, which will result in huge costs. Well, in the case of using natural ingredients, it is unlikely that you will be able to find so much moss at all.

To find out the building code standards for your state, contact your city or county building officials. Your state energy office can provide information on the energy codes recommended or applicable in your state. Construction and restoration of log cottages.

The base of the log cabin is made of stone pillars. The stones provide a solid base to support the cabin and act as a barrier between the cabin and the ground. Stones can settle over time and the foundation is carefully checked for damage and wear and then repaired during restoration.

All this speaks of the need to find something to put under the sealant. Experts say that the best material in this case is a cord made of polyethylene foam. Such a cord in itself is an excellent sealant, so it will not violate the thermal conductivity.

The number of logs used per wall depends on the size of the cabin. The spaces between magazines are usually filled with a combination of materials in a process known as "hammering" and "cheating". This process seals the exterior walls, protecting them from weather and animal damage.

Roofs with wood cabins are often piping and consist of hand-cut wood shingles. Roofs often develop damage and leaks over the years and are usually included in restorations. Many log cabins have front and rear doors. Due to doors being opened and closed over the years, the doors are often not in good working order and require repair during restoration. Both cab doors can be composed of hand boards, which open inwards and are attached to the log structure with pegs.

How to seal cracks in a wooden frame

Consider the sealing process modern methods, since near few houses there is a forest and a swamp in order to bring moss. While the same polyurethane sealant and polyethylene foam cord can be purchased at any outlet.

First of all, we place a cord in the hole between the logs, trying to hammer it there as tightly as possible;
We glue the edges of the logs with masking tape, so as not to stain them during the application of the sealant;
It is best to apply the coating with your fingers. However, if there is not enough experience in this matter, then it is better to use rubber spatula, which will help make the insulation more beautiful.

Conclusion

Log houses can provide the highest quality of life. But only if the technology of their construction is strictly observed. Particular attention must be paid to sealing all seams, as well as proper processing of wood in order to increase its fire resistance, moisture resistance and protection from pests. We will cover the latter points in more detail in future articles.

Most cabins have two windows located on either side of the chimney. The windows are glass panels, which will most likely need to be replaced during cabin refurbishment. The cabin usually has a chimney. A common problem is that over the years it will sink and deteriorate into many different parts.

Seal joints between logs - traditional sealing options

The inspector should inspect the exterior surfaces of the log walls when such surfaces are visible, looking for. Presence of mold, mildew or fungus; cracks located on the tops of the logs and facing upwards; discoloration, graying, bleaching or staining of logs; loss or lack of seal; separation of joints; blockage condition, including cracking, tears, holes, or split logarithms; and the logarithm state ends. Extensions; sorting and outflow of water from log walls; and vertical support posts under and on all porches. The surveyor should inspect the interior surfaces of log walls when such surfaces are visible, looking for.

This question should be asked at the stage of purchasing the material, because cracks in a wooden house can manifest themselves not only in the interventional space, but also on the surface of the raw material. How to choose the right material with the least loss and conduct a quality caulking and gap filling process, details below. It is worth noting that neglecting this action entails not only the impossibility of a comfortable stay, but also damage to the material.

Separation between logs, including penetration of light or air from the street; separation between the outer wall and internal partitions; and separation between log walls and interior ceilings. Joints, adjustable couplings, water supply loops, flexible hose sections and flexible ducts that are visible as part of routine heating and plumbing inspections. An inspector is not required.

Check or predict the condition of the interiors of magazines. predict the lifespan of logs. climb the log walls. However, the inspector may inspect the log walls using a ladder if this procedure can be performed safely and without damaging the walls. check components of the porch support system or plumbing or heating systems that are not easily visible and accessible. At proper preparation and the notched logs were stacked so that they did not rest on each other except on the cutout.

The purity of wood is the key to quality

It is possible to buy absolutely smooth raw materials. But the absence of cracks and crevices is rather a sign of the freshness of the timber or log. This means that wood carries a large percentage of moisture, which is not good, since shrinkage can deform the elements and cracks will inevitably appear when placed in a log house.

A crack or gap of an inch or more was visible between the timbers of the wall. Chinks were allowed to warp and expand when out-of-season timber was used. They also allowed builders to work on irregular surfaces and the natural tapers of the logs. As with notches, chicks have been influenced by different cultures.

It is best to purchase dry raw materials with a minimum web of defects, then there is a chance that the aging and drying technology is followed. How to correct these shortcomings and how to cover up the cracks of a log house or other material? With the help of many means known since the time of our ancestors. Namely:

Joiner's glue + wood waste. This is the most affordable tool for independent quality work.
Synthetic derivatives - sealants, mastics, resins, polyurethane foams.
Caulking with jute, flax, tow and moss.
Decorative patch.

More about the processes available to non-professionals:

Sealing cracks in logs: what materials to choose?

The materials used for the hard fill varied and were simply the product of local materials. All clay, stones, pillars, pieces of wood and split wooden tiles. Soft filler served to fill small cracks and crevices around hard fillers and provided a surface for spreading. Typical soft fillers were okum, moss, clay, straw, paper, cloth, and even dried dung.

Daubing was the last print of the three-part process. Mortar was perhaps the most popular ointment. It consisted solely of clay, mud, or dung; or consisted of a mixture of lime and water. The bonds included sand, hair, straw, ash, flour, sawdust, and shredded newspaper. The bark remaining on the logs served as an excellent binder. Modern materials include cement, and even a piece of wire or a metal bar is smear, although all are unacceptable materials, non-historical and incompatible.

Using wood glue to seal gaps in wooden house, it is possible both at the finishing stage and subsequent regular inspections of the object for damage. The tool is affordable, cheap, brings a lot of benefits. But the disadvantage is only the use in small areas, with extensive lesions, it is worth using something else.

So: cracks should be cleaned with fine emery so that sawdust and wood dust are collected. Next, a paste is prepared from them - glue is poured into the mass.

Then the substance is laid in the cracks and left for easy setting. After the grinding machine, the places are processed.

Using sealant to seal the cracks of a wooden house, you need to learn one rule - acrylic options are not suitable for outdoor use. Silicone should also be treated with caution - they can delaminate in the cold, so the bottle must be labeled strictly as frost-resistant. It is worth choosing the right color for the general background of the wood.

Before applying the product, the cracks must be treated for biological deterioration. It would not be bad to walk, in general, with all kinds of defenses. Next, the sealant is put into the gaps as deep as possible and compared with the surface.

Sealing cracks in a wooden house with foam for mounting purposes is recommended only if further cladding is required. It has an unpresentable appearance, and even after cutting off the protruding parts, attractiveness is not added. In addition, foam is a kind of foam rubber that has cells.

Consequently, the moisture that gets there is able to be retained and act detrimental to the wood. Resins and mastics can play the role of putty, but at sub-zero temperatures they are destroyed.

Caulker - the best way to seal interventional gaps finished log house after shrinkage. It is periodic in nature and takes place in three stages. The first - immediately after the assembly of the object, the second after shrinkage and the third after 3-5 years of operation.

This process - sealing cracks in a wooden house - is subject to buildings from all types of raw materials - timber, logs. Sellers of expensive materials - glued or profiled kit have no right to say that their wood does not need it. There is practically no such type that did without the occurrence of gaps and cracks.

The caulking process is as follows:

Previously, the surface of the walls is cleaned of wood chips, protruding fasteners and other things. You can use grinder or a vacuum cleaner.
Then the surface, especially those places where gaps need to be sealed, in a wooden house is impregnated with chemical or natural protection against fire, fungus, moisture and mold. Each layer must dry completely before applying the next.
Further, it will not be difficult to close up the cracks in the wooden house with the selected caulk. There are two ways to do this - in a set and stretched. The first for filamentous materials - tow, rope.

The second - for tape materials: jute, lnovatin. Special tools should be used in the process - a dobor, a flat caulk and a mallet for accurate driving.

Sufficiency is checked with an awl - if it enters the closed gap with difficulty, the material is laid with high quality. But you can’t overdo it either - you can violate the position of the crowns.

Work is carried out strictly in a circle, from two sides. Regular preventive maintenance and freeing the house of old material is the key to a windproof house.

The decorative caulk is as follows:

A decorative cord is used as a material and such raw materials are used in order to seal cracks in log house looked beautiful with expensive and elite material - glued laminated timber, logs.
Before laying the twisted cord, the usual manipulations for caulking are performed - cleaning, impregnation. Further, the gaps in the wood are sealed with sealant, mastic or resin. This is done just in case the cord suddenly falls out.
It remains to lay the rope. With the help of tools, it is carefully driven between the logs, without waiting for the complete drying of the substance laid before caulking.

Crevice sealant wooden house will grab together with the cord, and strength will be ensured. When caulking with a rope, you should start with corner mates and then work on other areas.

To give your own housing a comfortable climate, the sealing of cracks and gaps resulting from shrinkage, due to the drying of the material, is called upon. For a wooden house, cracks are a common problem that can and should be dealt with. The described processes are available to owners who had no idea about such work before.

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Ecologically clean wood has long been considered an excellent material for building a house. Huts or log cabins built of wood are good because they breathe easily. In summer, such buildings do not get very hot, like brick or stone houses, and it is comfortable to stay in them even in the heat, and in frosty winters, wooden walls keep heat well, not letting cold into the room. For these reasons, many people prefer to build their summer cottages and country houses just from wood.

However, along with the above advantages, the tree also has many disadvantages. So, under the influence of natural factors, it undergoes deformation and damage. Moisture contributes to the swelling of wood logs, in dry weather they dry out. All this leads to the fact that gaps begin to appear between the log crowns, through which winds and cold can enter the house, and rain and dampness are the causes of wood decay and its gradual destruction. But these processes can be prevented if the log house is insulated and the log joints are sealed in time. The salvation of the dwelling is the high-quality sealing of the seams between the crowns. What materials are better to use for sealing walls and how is seaming done in a wooden house correctly?

Is it worth caulking a wooden house?

The most famous interventional heaters moss, hemp and tow are considered. The advantages of these natural materials are resistance to temperature fluctuations, bactericidal and mold fungi, low thermal conductivity, good moisture absorption. But fewer and fewer people building log cabins use these materials to seal the seams in a wooden house. Why did the demand for moss, tow and hemp decrease so much?

The process of caulking the cracks and gaps between the crowns is quite laborious and time consuming, because it is required to carefully and evenly plug them with natural materials using a chisel. The walls cannot be caulked immediately after the construction of the log house, since its shrinkage will not require less than a year, and during this time moisture can already begin its destructive work. The disadvantage of caulking tow and moss is the fact that this process will need to be repeated more than once. The thing is that birds love to “steal” materials from people to build nests. Pulling moss and tow out of cracks and joints, they violate the integrity of the seal and give wooden frame messy messy look. The winds also worsen appearance walls. As for material such as hemp, it is subject to attacks by moths, which, through their activities, harm the seal.

Knowing these shortcomings of natural heaters, manufacturers of building materials produce more advanced sealants to improve the quality of insulation of all cracks and seams of a wooden house. What are good modern heaters walls?

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How to insulate walls with tape tow and linen rope?

One of the improved sealants is natural tow in rolls. It is made from flax, which is first well combed on carding machines, then the fibers are polarized and turned into a tape 15 cm wide. Next, the fibers are cleaned of various impurities. The result is excellent noise and thermal insulation material with good waterproof properties.

Unlike ordinary tow, tape is easier and denser to fit between the joints, it is not so brittle due to its softness.

Due to the naturalness of the material, the walls of the log house breathe well and do not rot. Tape tow seams are more durable, and it is not easy for birds to pull it out of the slots. Stacked roll material, as well as usual, along the crowns and along their edges with the help of a chisel or a special caulking spatula, carefully tucking the edges of the tape into each seam and slit. The result is a reliable seal between the logs, and the appearance of the log house is quite attractive.
A house insulated with linen rope looks even more beautiful. Such sealing of seams is called rope. As a heater, a three-strand linen rope is used, which is fixed to the seam with staples or nails. Needed to work the following materials and tools:

tape measure or ruler;

scissors;

linen rope;

a hammer;

short nails;

metal staples;

tassel;

wood impregnation.

The acquired linen rope is placed along the line of the inter-beam seam and every 15 cm, pulling it well, a bracket or a nail with a small hat is hammered into the beam. At the corners of a wooden house, the distance between the fasteners may be smaller. In order for the rope sealing to look aesthetically pleasing, when driving in nails or staples, the following action is performed: first, a strand of rope is slightly opened, then fasteners are hammered in, the rope itself is tucked against the wall of the log house and pulled. The strand is closed, and the staple or nail head is hidden under it from prying eyes.

When the sealing of the seams with a natural linen cord is completed, care should be taken to preserve it for long time. To do this, you need to take a protective impregnation for wood and carefully process all the rope edges with it. You can perform this procedure, impregnating at the same time the log walls themselves. Despite the fact that the process of sealing all the seams of a wooden house is quite long, it is not difficult, and you can do it without resorting to the help of other people. Rope insulation of seams in a wooden house has high reliability, perfectly protects the log house from moisture and gives the structure an unusual, but attractive look.

What to do if there are cracks in the logs, timber or block house? What are the materials for their termination and how to use them correctly? Is it possible to do it yourself? You will find answers to these and many other questions, as well as professional advice, in this article.

A hundred years ago, a log house was the most popular option for housing construction. In our forest-rich area, towers and huts have been built from time immemorial with the help of an ax and a saw, shifting hand-hewn logs with moss. The craftsmen reached perfection in working with wood, but rapid progress gave people new materials, made it possible to calibrate timber and cylinder logs. Today, houses made of timber or logs are “environmentally friendly antiquity”, accessible to the majority. However, the tree remained a tree, and the problems that the owners faced hundreds of years ago are still relevant today. Only the ways to solve them have changed. This will be discussed.

Interesting fact. What is the difference between a tower and a hut? The hut has only one floor. Everything that had more than one floor was called a tower.

Longitudinal cracks in wood

What you should know in advance when choosing a wooden house:

For all natural benefits the tree retains natural flaws - hygroscopicity, susceptibility to decomposition, oxidation of the outer layer, torsion, drying out, shrinkage, etc.
For all the cases listed above, there are modern "antidotes".
The log house requires constant care during operation. Miscellaneous works held at different intervals (1/3/5/10 seasons).
A house made of logs or timber will retain enough heat only in mild winter(up to -15 at normal humidity). For living in more cold period insulation or enhanced heating will be required.
The tree is afraid of wind, moisture and sun. So perfect place for a wooden house - natural environment (woodland).
The tree has the most a high degree fire hazard from all building materials (for walls).

Read more about the construction of log houses in the articles: “Choosing a log house for a wooden house”, “Do you want a good house? Choose: timber or log "," How to build the house of your dreams - glued laminated timber, material features ".

So, all the nuances are taken into account, the house is built or bought, and we are ready to deal with all the problems, bringing the appearance and performance to perfection.

Due to the fibrous structure, a log or timber has defects that propagate longitudinally. A transverse crack or dent occurs extremely rarely in the event of overload or rotting of the material. The log in such cases is not subject to repair, but to full or partial replacement.

Longitudinal cracks by location in the structure (direction) are divided into:

Direct. Approximately coincide with the axis of the log (beam).
Spiral (uneven). Does not match axis.
Segment. Irregular cracks with fiber transition.

In all cases, one selected method is used. As a rule, this is warming and subsequent sealing of the sinus. This combined method is the simplest and most affordable to date. It is suitable for cracks with an opening width of 5 mm. Smaller defects are sealed with a special sealant. The described method is perfect for a block house.

Question. Why not seal all the cracks with only sealant?

Answer. It will be very expensive due to the high consumption of sealant. At the same time, his thermal insulation properties an order of magnitude lower than the heater.

What you need:

Heat-insulating filler. It can be a special thermal harness or just a strip of foam rubber.
Sealant, professional gun.
Knives, metal scrapers.
Hand sprayer with water.
Pieces of foam rubber, rags.

Attention! Before starting work, make sure that the wall material is dry (normal humidity). Treat the internal cavities with an antiseptic.

Operating procedure:

1. We clean the edges of the crack from sawdust, loose wood, wood chips.

2. We fill the cavity with a thermal harness (foam rubber). Outside, ½-¼ cracks remain for laying the sealant.

Attention! If you are using foam rubber, do not tamp it hard. Any insulation in a compressed state loses its properties. The thermal harness is not subject to crushing.

3. We put the sealant in the bosom.

4. Smooth the sealant along the edges with a foam brush so that a continuous smooth surface is obtained. For the best effect, you can soak the sealant with water from a spray bottle.

Attention! Don't do it with your finger. The quality will be low, but the risk of getting a splinter will be high.

5. We remove the remnants of the sealant from the surface with a rag.

6. The exposure time for further processing is indicated in the instructions.

The choice of sealant is the most critical part of this work, if you do it yourself or the “good craftsman problem” is solved. An experienced specialist will advise the appropriate option. Most of these products are universal - suitable for any type of work. "Internal" sealants, as a rule, differ slightly in price from "external". The companies producing them have an assortment of related products - thermal harness, felt.

Sealants for cracks and joints of logs and timber:

Name, manufacturer	Release form	Unit price, rub.	Consumption, g / rm. m*	The cost of processing 1 running. m, rub.
NEOMID Warm house Wood Professional, Russia	Cartridge 310 ml (420 g)	200	70	25
	File package 600 ml (815 g)	360
	Bucket 15 kg	5400
EUROTEX joint sealant for wood NPP Rogneda, Russia	Bucket 3 kg	1100	170	54
	Bucket 6 kg	2000
	Bucket 25 kg	8000
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	File package 600 ml (815 g)	240	75	52
TENAX Tenaplasts, Latvia	Bucket 15 kg	3500	75	52
Therma-Chink Accent, Russia	Cartridge 400 g	280	70	28
	Tube 900 g	360
	Bucket 3 kg	1200
	Bucket 6 kg	2350
	Bucket 7 kg	2700
	Bucket 15 kg	5800
PermaChink, USA	Cartridge (probe) 325 ml	800	63	110
PermaChink, USA	Bucket 19 l	19000	63	110

* - consumption is indicated per 1 meter of a running joint 10 mm wide and 5 mm deep (0.5 cm 2)

Question. And yet, what is the difference between a thermal harness and a simple foam rubber?

Answer. Condensation can accumulate in the pores of the foam rubber and eventually destroy the material.

Thermal harnesses are made of polyethylene, are universal and can be used with any sealant. Energoflex sealing cords are the most convenient and popular type of this material. It is produced by different companies, but the name "Energoflex" is used by almost everyone.

Sealing cords (bundles):

Name	Manufacturer	Diameter, mm	Price 1 line m	Release form
Cord Energoflex	Russia	6	5	Bay 800 m
	Russia	20	20	Bay 150 m
	Belgium	6	6	Bay 1500 m
	Belgium	8	6,5	Bay 900 m
wood security	Russia	6	5	Box 150-450 m
		10	9	Box 150-450 m
		20	21	Box 150-450 m
Vilaterm "Tilit"	Russia	6	2,9	Packing 800 m
		8	3.7	Packing 800 m
		20	7,5	Packing 150 m

In houses made of long timber or logs, in addition to natural cracks in solid wood, horizontal gaps appear at the junctions of elements. Even if the initial laying is done with high quality, it still happens due to natural reasons - the shrinkage of the tree. Measures to prevent problems associated with this phenomenon are taken depending on the material itself.

Slots at the junction of the calibrated timber

Here it is reasonable to mention the main advantage of a calibrated beam over a log. The presence of a tongue-and-groove system on the longitudinal edges of the beam reduces to zero the possibility of through passage of air. However, opening the joint even to a shallow depth allows winter period cold air to pass into the wall, which contributes to the formation of condensate (cold bridge). Humidified air penetrates there in spring and autumn. The tree takes in moisture, and the processes of oxidation and decay can begin.

The modern method of blocking the joints of wooden log cabins looks the same as for slots. In this case, the same materials are used - sealant and Energoflex cord. Sealing materials for log cabins from different companies are usually labeled with the name "Warm Seam".

Cracks at the junction of logs

With a log, the situation is somewhat more complicated than with a bar. Here, in the case of severe shrinkage, through passages of air can occur. Typically, this problem occurs in homes that have not received prophylaxis at the right time. The log dries out, a cold one enters through the expanded joint. wet air, cushioning material (felt, moss, tow, jute) is destroyed and weathered. In this case, the load from the crowns in this place is unevenly distributed, which can lead to distortions.

In order to correct the situation, you need to caulk the joint.

Caulking is a dry method of filling joints between wood elements. This procedure came to us unchanged after thousands of years: a rope or tow, hammered into a gap, became a stronghold of navigation and wooden housing construction. Previously, for sealing, the material was impregnated with a hydrophobic composition - tar, resin and oils.

When insulating the seams, the caulked material is sealed on top with a sealed layer that does not conduct moisture. Therefore, there is no need for its additional hydrophobization.

What you need:

Spatula with hammer protection.
Hammer 500-800 g.
Jute, felt, tow.
Masking tape (optional).
Further - points from the description of crack sealing (except for the first one).

Operating procedure:

Using a spatula, the material is driven into the joint to a state of elasticity.
If desired, the edges of the joint are pasted over with masking tape.

Attention! In no case should not caulk cracks. This will lead to an increase in stress and crack propagation. Only light compaction is allowed.

The described sealing materials have a coefficient of (gradual) stretching up to 4. This allows the tree to "live" and at the same time does not depressurize joints and cracks. They are made on the basis of acrylic, non-toxic and subject to all types of processing - tinting, grinding, painting. The service life of sealants is usually from 20 years.

All photos from the article

The attractiveness of rounded logs is still relevant. An important criterion which, like a magnet, attracts more and more new buyers, is the price of the product and even walls made of natural raw materials. But for some reason, no attention is paid to the problems that arise after the construction of buildings from this material.

Or they are mentioned in passing, as insignificant, but they are very important, and these are gaps. Talk about them.

Caution - danger!

Practice confidently declares and proves that the problem is terrible because of the consequences that result either from excessive savings or hope for a chance. Don't expect it won't pass.

Over time, two problems appear in log structures that deserve comprehensive coverage:

Slits directly in the material. The reason for this is often under-dried beams, which, given the different speed of moisture movement in the longitudinal and radial directions, splits into fibers to speed up the process. The result is cracks of various lengths and depths. Another reason is age-related changes in the material.

Danger condition!
These gaps provide one hundred percent moisture stagnation, followed by decay and destruction of the entire log.

gaps between cylinders. This problem is much more serious, cracks are direct gates for the exit of heat, the entry of cold air, this condition occurs when the cracks are sealed incorrectly, often deliberately incorrectly.

Danger!
In this regard, it becomes impossible to live in the building, especially in winter time when the heat simply flies through the cracks in transit, without lingering.

Technology for sealing defects in logs

By the exterior of the log, you will not be able to determine the degree of its drying, and we are powerless before the age of the tree, nothing can be done. The resulting cracks just need to be caulked.

The technology of this process is very simple:

You buy a sealant, albeit the cheapest, the instructions for use of which say - on wood. Then, using a mounting gun, evenly fill all the gaps in the material.

Advice!
In some sources, you will find rather not wise, but sophisticated advice - use tow, and even soaked in oil, usually linen or drying oil, to seal deep cracks.
From above, it is recommended to apply a layer of sealant with a thickness of no more than one cm.
You don't have to do that!
Wood is a unique material, different from others.
Moisture movement processes take place in the tree, for which natural plant fiber will be an excellent retaining material.
As a result, you provide moisture stagnation and accelerated damage to the tree.

The sealing of seams in a log house, formed in the body of a log, is carried out with a sealant and only with it.

Information for thought! Do not blow out internal cracks mounting foam! You have a problem area that "opened" under the influence of moisture movement. By blowing foam there, which tends to expand by 4.5-5 times, you actually make an effort to further expand the defect.

General definitions

This small subsection is introduced for the correct vision of the whole problem, since everything is interconnected: acquaintance with one section gives an understanding of another. The purpose of this material is not just to answer the question of how and with what to close the seams between the logs of the log house, but also how to perform the work without subsequent emergency alteration.

Materials for caulking;
Styling technology;

Carrying out emergency work.

Materials from ancient history to our everyday life

Every material that has been used or is being used today has features that attract their customers. Let's try to compare them, and choose something consonant and optimal from the available materials.

Material	Advantages	Peculiarities
Moss or sphagnum moss	A huge amount of material especially in swampy areas; The material is laid down immediately;	Loved by birds for building nests, also used as a heater;
Tow and band derivative	The tape made of this material is more durable than conventional tow;	Natural materials, however, require constant impregnation, are very loved by moths;
Felt	Relatively cheap	The material must be dried before laying.
Flax and ropes from it	Not expensive, the seams look spectacular	Linen ropes require constant impregnation from pests and decay.
Jute	durable; Does not crumble; Does not require additional processing.	Pricing policy is, of course, less acceptable than other materials
Lnovatin	According to the declared characteristics, it approaches jute.	The price of the material is close to the price of jute; The quality does not correspond to the declared, short linen fibers begin to crumble over time.

Note!
The best material for the caulking process today is jute.
Therefore, when deciding how to close the gaps between the logs of the log house, you will not find the best.
For a bath, garage, barn, shed, you can choose cheaper material.

Choice made, let's get started

The process of laying the material is not complicated, driving it into the cracks is done methodically with your own hands with knowledge of all the nuances.

Let's start with general questions.
According to all the canons of filling gaps, this process occurs at least three times:

The tapping technique is simple. The primary material that goes beyond the boundaries of the joint is tucked up, a roller is formed, and is driven into the slot with the help of a chisel and an ordinary hammer. When re-forming, the fabric is folded in half, the central part is first driven in, then the lower and upper parts are tamped, according to the described technology with rollers.

Styling nuances. The whole process goes along the perimeter from the bottom up, while each log is laid first from the outside, then from the inside.

Advice!
When driving in insulation, one log is displaced relative to another, sometimes up to 5 cm or more (depending on the diameter of the logs).
Gaining insulation only with outer side building, you risk moving the entire wall inward.
Changing the technology from the perimeter to sequential actions - from the outside, from the inside, the walls will warp relative to each other.

In this section, I would like to separately highlight the question of how to close the gaps between the log and brickwork. They cannot be caulked, as this is an interventional space.

Perhaps, and then the process of decay will not take long.

There are two options here:

Blow out the space with assembly foam. Naturally, the excess material is then removed and covered with a putty that protects from ultraviolet rays.

Reminder!
Mounting foam does not like the direct rays of the sun, it quickly turns yellow and can collapse.
I think the consequences are clear.

Close the connection with foam sheets with umbrella fasteners. In this way, you will not only remove the cold bridge, but also insulate the protruding foundation.

Emergency work

Sometimes there is a need to cover up the cracks in the truest sense of the word, it’s still cold ...

In case of urgent need:

Slots are blown out with mounting foam;
After drying, the excess material is remarkably removed with a mounting knife;
And now, to the question of how to cover up the seams between the logs, we answer with putty from ultraviolet radiation.

Finally

If you are purchasing inexpensive building from cylindering, do not rush to rejoice at the purchase, invite the master, let him look at the existing defects and evaluate the volume and cost of work. And the video in this article prepared an overview of the work to which this material is devoted.

The purity of wood is the key to quality

It is best to purchase dry raw materials with a minimum web of defects, then there is a chance that the aging and drying technology is followed. How to fix these shortcomings and how to cover up the cracks of a log house or cracks in a profiled beam? With the help of many means known since the time of our ancestors. Namely:

Joiner's glue + wood waste. Exactly this available remedy for quality work.
Synthetic derivatives - sealants, mastics, resins, polyurethane foams.
Caulking with jute, flax, tow and moss.
Decorative patch.

More about the processes available to non-professionals:

Using wood glue to close cracks in a wooden house, it is possible both at the finishing stage and subsequent regular inspections of the object for damage. The tool is affordable, cheap, brings a lot of benefits. But the disadvantage is only the use in small areas, with extensive lesions, it is worth using something else.

So: cracks should be cleaned with fine emery so that sawdust and wood dust are collected. Next, a paste is prepared from them - glue is poured into the mass.

Then the substance is laid in the cracks and left for easy setting. After the grinding machine, the places are processed.

Using a sealant to seal the cracks of a wooden house, you need to learn one rule - acrylic options are not suitable for outdoor use. Silicone should also be treated with caution - they can delaminate in the cold, so the bottle must be labeled strictly as frost-resistant. It is worth choosing the right color for the general background of the wood.

Consequently, the moisture that gets there is able to be retained and act detrimental to the wood. Resins and mastics can play the role of putty, but at sub-zero temperatures they are destroyed.

Caulker - the most The best way sealing interventional gaps of the finished log house after shrinkage. It is periodic in nature and takes place in three stages. The first - immediately after the assembly of the object, the second after shrinkage and the third after 3-5 years of operation.

This process - sealing cracks in a wooden house - is subject to buildings from all types of raw materials - timber, logs. Sellers expensive materials– a glued or profiled set have no right to say that their wood does not need it. There is practically no such type that did without the occurrence of gaps and cracks.

The caulking process is as follows:

Previously, the surface of the walls is cleaned of wood chips, protruding fasteners and other things. You can use a grinder or a vacuum cleaner.
Then the surface, especially those places where gaps need to be sealed, in a wooden house is impregnated with chemical or natural protection against fire, fungus, moisture and mold. Each layer must dry completely before applying the next.
Further, it will not be difficult to close up the cracks in the wooden house with the selected caulk. There are two ways to do this - in a set and stretched. The first for filamentous materials - tow, rope.

The second - for tape materials: jute, lnovatin. Use in the process special tools- dobor, flat caulk and mallet for accurate driving.

Sufficiency is checked with an awl - if it enters the closed gap with difficulty, the material is laid with high quality. But you can’t overdo it either - you can violate the position of the crowns.

Work is carried out strictly in a circle, from two sides. Regular preventive maintenance and freeing the house of old material is the key to a windproof house.

The decorative caulk is as follows:

A decorative cord is used as a material and such raw materials are used so that the sealing of cracks in a log house looks beautiful with expensive and elite material - glued laminated timber, logs.
Before laying the twisted cord, the usual manipulations for caulking are performed - cleaning, impregnation. Further, the gaps in the wood are sealed with sealant, mastic or resin. This is done just in case the cord suddenly falls out.
It remains to lay the rope. With the help of tools, it is carefully driven between the logs, without waiting for the complete drying of the substance laid before caulking.

The wood house crevice sealant will grab together with the cord, and strength will be ensured. When caulking with a rope, you should start with corner mates and then work on other areas.