Astra: growing seedlings with multiple transplants. When and how to plant tulips

Do not forget about such an important technique for obtaining a high-quality cut, like pinching. In the initial period of growth, asters have one trunk. Then branching begins. Stepchildren appear in order. Depending on the varietal characteristics, there can be from 2-4 to several 10 s. The more pa-sons, the smaller the diameter of the inflorescences will be. Therefore, their parts are removed, leaving 2-5 pieces. Asters are especially large when all stepchildren are removed and only one bloom remains on the central stem. In this case, the diameter of plants of certain varieties and species can reach 18-20 cm (Toreador, Valkyrie, Corrida, etc.).

But there are varieties and variety series for which the removal of first-order stepchildren is contraindicated. These are low curbs (Camelot, Classic, etc.), bouquet, columnar, pompom (Serenade, Biedermeier, etc.). The diameter of their inflorescences does not increase, and the decorativeness disappears. So it takes a personal approach. If it is not the diameter of the inflorescences that matters, but their number, stepchildren of the first order do not standardize. Even more harm is done by second and third order stepchildren, if they are allowed to develop. They take away a lot of nutrients, as a result, the quality of the main inflorescences is significantly aggravated. Especially actively such stepchildren develop in autumn, when the main inflorescences begin to wither or part of them is cut off. Many cannot get seeds, specifically because the plants waste energy on the development of stepchildren, and the main inflorescences dry out, and the seeds do not ripen.

I have a prejudice about food colors that can be purchased in stores, especially before Easter.

Astra - beautiful flower... It is completely non-exotic, but not a single flower bed in our front gardens can do without it. Her beautiful flowers different shades delight us with a long warm autumn before the first snow. Perennial Astra is herbaceous plant with small leaves and flowers that bloom at the end of summer. Peonies and chrysanthemums look like her, and therefore they are often confused.

Flowers are:

White;
Burgundy;
Lilac;
Pink;
Purple.

Height, depending on the variety, varies from 20 cm to 150 cm.

This plant has many varieties that have different heights of the bush and color of flowers. As a result, by mixing and selecting varieties, you can create beautiful flower bed, which will delight us all autumn with its flowering.

The variety of colors allows the aster to occupy a leading position in popularity in landscape design.

Perennial undersized

Among the large variety of perennial asters, the group of dwarf dwarfs stands out well. They grow up to a height of 20 cm, and with their help, rock gardens and the edges of all kinds of flower beds and flower beds are formed.

When the flowers bloom, the small bush is completely covered with flowers, so that you hardly even see the greenery.

Gardeners appreciate the view for excellent frost resistance, it will be necessary to cover them with spruce branches only in the northern regions of Russia, where there are strong and prolonged frosts.

In contrast, there is the Callistephus Chinese variety. It is also known as an annual variety as it blooms from mid-summer to October.

Pink

Alpine, Novobelgiskaya and other types of perennial asters can also have pink shades of flowers. They all differ in flowering time and bush height.

Bush

Shrub - a perennial species that grows compact bush about 50 cm in height. The birthplace of the species is recognized North America... Flowering begins in September and lasts until the first frost.

Shades of inflorescences:

White
Lilac

White

White perennial is also not the name of the species, since many varieties of the Alpine and Italian perennial Asters bloom with white flowers.

Alpine

A common variety with an early flowering period. Astra is home to the Alps. The height of an adult bush is 30 cm.In sunny areas it can grow about 15 cm.It is often planted at the forefront of the flower bed or along the paths of the garden.

Flowers blooming on a bush have the following parameters:

Italian

This perennial aster grows to a height of 60 cm and is a representative of this species, which is planted in the middle plan of flower beds. Her inflorescences resemble chamomile flowers and have a diameter of up to 4 cm and a light purple color of the petals.

If it weren't for purple petals, Italian would be a copy of chamomile

New English: high view

Tall, grows up to 150 cm in height. Therefore, it is planted with a tapeworm in the center of the flower bed, planting it different varieties... Flower buds are collected in dense brushes of 25 pcs., The diameter of a single flower reaches 4 cm.

Shades of colors:

White;
Pink;
Purple.

Landing

For the flowerbed to look beautiful and pleasing to the eye, it is important choose the right varieties Asters and plant them correctly. All procedures are simple, but they should be adhered to in order for the perennial to please with its flowering.

How to choose a landing site

In order for the bushes to grow well and not get sick, and in the fall they are completely covered with flower buds, it is necessary to choose the right place in the flower bed. The soil in the area set aside for perennial Asters should be sufficiently loose and nutritious.

Check the quality of the soil BEFORE planting, otherwise the flower may hurt and grow poorly

If the soil is poor in microelements, then complex fertilizers should be applied before planting.

Before planting the rhizomes of the plant, humus should not be introduced, since not rotted humus will provoke the development of fusarium.

The place should be sunny, but the flowers easily tolerate partial shade or a lacy shade from the foliage of a tree.

If in the garden The groundwater lie very close to the surface of the soil, then when planting they make a 10 cm cushion of gravel in order to avoid decay of the root system of the plant.

How to sow seeds correctly

Perennial Astra reproduces well by sowing seeds. To do this, untreated seeds are treated with any growth stimulant and fungicide, after which they are planted in prepared boxes up to 10 cm deep, filled with nutritious soil.

To make the rows even, they can be made with a knife or a wooden ruler.

The depth of planting seeds in the ground should be no deeper than 2 cm.

After the seeds have been laid out in the prepared grooves, they are sprinkled with a small layer of disinfected (calcined) sand. After that, the earth should be shed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate - this will prevent the infection of the seedlings with the "black leg".

In order for the seedlings to sprout more amicably, the seedling box is covered with glass or placed in a transparent bag to form greenhouse conditions.

The air temperature in the room where the seedlings are grown should be +20 degrees... When most of the sprouted seedlings appear, the glass is removed and the first watering is performed.

What time to grow

The end of March is the most the right time to start sowing perennial Asters for seedlings. If it is necessary to propagate by seeds by sowing seeds immediately in open ground, then this period depends on the habitat of the gardener.

In the southern regions of Russia, they are planted in open ground, depending on weather conditions, in early April and covered with foil to create greenhouse conditions. In the Moscow region the beginning of sowing seeds falls on the first days of May, since return frosts can also be at the end of May.

Seeds can be sown in the fall before winter, but then you will need to cover them with peat, which will protect them from freezing.

How seedlings are grown

To prevent the seedlings from stretching out excessively, it is necessary to take them out to a cooler room, where the air temperature will be about 16 degrees Celsius. The room must be sunny.

Timely turning of the seedlings towards the light ensures their correct development

In order for the seedlings to develop evenly on all sides, it is necessary turn different sides in relation to the sun.

Do not forget to do timely watering, not letting the young seedlings dry out.

Basic rules of care

In order for the perennial bushes to please their owner, they must be cared for. Here are some wishes that must be fulfilled when cultivating a plant.

Watering

Any Asters and perennials are also fairly drought tolerant plants. But in order for the flowering to be lush during the summer, it is necessary to regularly water the plant. But it is not worth pouring them in, and therefore, during the period when there is no rain, the perennial is watered once every 10 days.

With a lack of moisture, the bush will turn yellow and shed the foliage.

Temperature

The temperature does not really matter, but at average temperature at 28 degrees Celsius, the plant develops well. If the air temperature drops to +5 degrees or rises above 35 degrees, Astra falls into a dormant state.

Naturally, in this case, the root system does not develop and flower buds are not laid.

Fertilizers

The plant requires three times feeding during the growing season. Of course, they can live without additional conditions, but fertilizing a flower will lead to more lush bloom and beautiful form bush.

All fertilizing should be done only after watering - this will save root system plants.

Diseases and pests

Fusarium is a disease that cannot be cured, all perennial Asters infected with this disease are destroyed outside the area. But disease can be prevented while doing prevention:

Do not fertilize the soil intended for planting Asters with manure.
The soil is limed, thereby lowering its acidity.

Fusarium is dangerous not only for asters - this disease is on the list of the most dangerous for a number of plants. For example, we already wrote about it in the section,.

Incurableness makes fusarium one of the most dangerous enemies of asters.

Rust on the plate is the convex parts that are on the underside of the plate. Sick Plants destroyed, and the rest are treated with Hom.

Sometimes you can see aphids and onion bugs on the bushes - these pests can be easily destroyed if you dilute one Iskra tablet in a bucket of water.

It is worth starting treatment for a diseased plant immediately after the detection of the disease.

Flower reproduction methods

except seed reproduction perennial Astra, there are simpler ways:

By dividing an adult bush.
By cuttings.

The division of the bush is The easiest way worth propagating perennial. The best time for this spring. Dividing an adult bush can be done once every 4 years, this time is enough for a divided bush to acquire big amount roots and twigs on the bush.

Therefore, in order to propagate a bush, you must:

Dig up an old bush.
With a shovel, divide it into parts, which will contain the roots and the vegetative mass of the plant.
They are planted in prepared holes and watered in order for them to take root better.

Remember to maintain the temperature - create a greenhouse environment with a simple glass jar

Cutting is carried out just as easy, as well as dividing the bush. To this end, in June, the apical cuttings are cut and planted in the ground where there is no sun. For greenhouse conditions, it is well worth covering with a three liter glass jar.

Watering is done as the soil dries out. They spend their first winter under a bank, and in the spring they take it off and young bushes are transplanted onto their permanent place growth.

Perennial Astra is unpretentious plant , which deserves its place in the garden in the flower beds. Since we cannot imagine without her autumn garden... Adhering to the simple rules of caring for it, you can observe all its beauty when it blooms against the background of yellowed foliage.

ASTRA CARE, EXPERT ADVICE Save the cheat sheet, share with your classmates! All plants love to be looked after. Aster is no exception. She is not picky, but if a place with a suitable soil composition is correctly selected for her, they do not forget to water and feed, then the flowering will be lush and long. In order for asters to please the eye with magnificent flowering, they must be grown in well-lit places, because these beauties are very photophilous. To avoid contamination through the soil with diseases, it is recommended to return to the previous planting site after 4-5 years. Like many plants, asters do not tolerate excessive moisture and stagnant water, so the soil must be permeable to water with a deep location of groundwater. Light sandy loam and loamy soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.5-8) are quite suitable for them, but they must first be cultivated. Preparing the soil Cultivation of the soil for asters begins in the fall. The earth must be dug to a depth of 22-30 cm and fertilizer must be added for digging: 2-4 kg of humus or compost (aster does not tolerate fresh manure, since it contributes to the defeat of plants by fusarium) and 6-9 g of superphosphate and potassium salt per 1 m2. If the soil is acidic, in late autumn, liming should be carried out, taking into account the fact that the introduction of 350-400 g of carbonic lime per 1 m2 increases the pH by 1. plants that overwintered in it. Before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the site should be carefully weeded, leveled and once again loosened to a depth of 4-6 cm. Growing seedlings Asters in the Non-Black Earth Region are usually grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown on the window in the second half of March, in the greenhouse - in April. For sowing, mix sod land with peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1. It is advisable to sift the resulting soil mixture through a sieve with holes of 1-1.5 cm. Good garden land is also suitable right from the site. Sprinkle the soil on top with a layer of clean sand 2-2.5 cm thick. Seedling boxes or pots are thoroughly spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 l of water) and filled with soil. 1-2 days before sowing, it is spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate, in extreme cases, just boiling water. During the sowing, the soil should not be wet, but only moist. Seeds are sown randomly, not sprinkled with soil, but covered with paper. It is removed after 3-5 days, when shoots appear. Then the box is placed on a light windowsill and the seedlings are carefully watered with water at room temperature. In the future, watering should be infrequent, but abundant. The temperature for growing seedlings is maintained at 16-18 ° C during the day and 12-15 ° C at night. This temperature can be ensured by ventilating the room or greenhouse. The time from emergence to picking (7-8 days after emergence) is a very crucial moment, as a "black leg" may appear. During this period, it is necessary to carefully monitor both soil moisture and air temperature. Seedlings dive when the first true leaf is formed. Plants are planted every 5-7 cm in a checkerboard pattern and watered. If the hypocotyledonous knee of the seedlings is strongly extended, then when picking, they can be deepened almost to the cotyledonous leaves. 7-10 days after picking, the rooted seedlings are fed with any complex mineral fertilizer(30 g per 10 l of water). When the 4th leaf appears, the seedlings begin to harden, lowering the temperature so that it is 10-12 ° C during the day and 8-10 ° C at night. The total hardening time should be 15-20 days. Hardened seedlings take root better and grow faster after transplanting. It can withstand temperatures down to minus 4 ° C. Reduce watering during hardening. Plants are planted in the 2-3rd decade of May. By the time of planting in the ground, asters should have a strong stem 6-10 cm high and 5-7 large bright green leaves. 2-3 days before transplanting and before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, especially if they were grown without pots. This will help to better preserve the roots and soil clod. Planting is preferable in the evening. For asters, the feeding area is very important - in no case should they be thickened. Seedlings of tall varieties are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm between plants, undersized asters planted after 10-15 cm.When a multi-row planting, 60-70 cm is left between rows.If planted on a raised flower garden (15-25 cm high), large asters are placed at a distance of 30-35 and 35-40 cm between rows, undersized, respectively 15-20 and 20-25 cm. Planting is carried out with double irrigation: in the holes and from above. The soil around the planted seedlings is sprinkled (mulched) with dry earth. In hot weather, it is advisable to cover the plants with a light non-woven fabric for several days for better survival. Tip: In order for asters to form strong bushes with lush inflorescences, on the eve of sowing, soak the seeds for 7 hours in a solution of zinc chloride or molybdenum (0.5-08 g per 1 liter of water). We sow in the ground Usually, asters are grown through seedlings for more early flowering(especially late varieties) or getting seeds. If all this is not so necessary, then asters can be grown by sowing in open ground. Such plants are less likely to get sick with fusarium, bloom longer, however, they almost do not form seeds. Asters can be sown in the spring as soon as the soil warms up. Usually sowing is carried out in early May, seedlings appear on May 19-24. Seeds are prepared in the same way as when sowing for seedlings, and sown in grooves with a depth of 0.5-0.8 cm. They are covered with a layer of soil, watered well, in dry weather they are slightly mulched or covered non-woven fabric before germination. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 10-15 cm (taking into account the fact that in the future, seedlings will fall out). Excess plants can not be pulled out, but carefully dug up and transplanted to another place. Asters sown directly into the ground will bloom 19-25 days later than home seedlings, but longer. You can sow asters late autumn... They are sown into prepared soil, placed in grooves, and sprinkled with prepared dry soil. When sowing, the ground must be frozen, otherwise the seeds may germinate and die. Possible for asters and winter sowing in December-January. If not severe frosts, snow is shoveled from the plots prepared for asters, dry seeds are sown in grooves and sprinkled with dry soil or mixed with peat, and a snow layer is poured on top. When we winter or winter sowing seedlings appear in late April - early May. Taking care of asters Caring for asters includes the obligatory loosening of the soil. It is advisable to do this after every watering or rain. The soil is loosened to a depth of 4-6 cm, given that the bulk of the roots is in the surface layer (20 cm). Before the plants start branching, light hilling can be carried out to a height of 5-7 cm. This will enhance root growth. When watering, it must be remembered that both a lack and an excess of water are harmful for asters. In hot weather, it is better to water less often, but abundantly (up to 3 buckets per 1 m2) and be sure to loosen after that. If, in dry weather, you are late with watering or it is not enough to give it, the inflorescences will be small and small. Tip: Asters sown before winter not only bloom earlier, but also form more lush inflorescences. If possible, after rooting the seedlings, it is better to feed the asters with a solution of a mullein diluted 1:10. In order for the aster to grow up to be a beauty, it needs to be fed. Usually give 3 dressings. The first time they are fed 10-15 days after planting in the ground or thinning, using 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2. When buds appear, a second feeding is given, this time using 50-60 g / m2 of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The same fertilizers are given during the third feeding, which is carried out at the beginning of the flowering of asters.

|| Sowing seeds in greenhouses || Sowing seeds in the open field || Seedling || Lawn care || Seed lawn || Paving || First steps in pruning || Pinching and pinching || Cuttings || Reproduction by layering || Root layers || Berry crops || Miniature fruit trees || Shrubs || Shaky perennials || Bulbs, rhizomes, corms, tubers || Curly and creeping

Pinching and pinching are simple, but necessary work in the garden. It is only important to know which plants need it and when.

Dahlias need regular grooming. 3-4 weeks after planting, they need to be carefully pinched, removing the main shoots. Over time, the wilting flowers should be cut off.

You may have done this work without knowing it. It consists in removing, often just pinching off with fingers, the buds of a new growth. This allows the plant to focus on producing fewer colors or fruits, but more beautiful or larger. New buds are laid in the leaf axil (the place of attachment of the leaf cutting to the stem). Leaves and flowers can develop from them, and later, probably, fruits.

Growth control. In many plants, the development of buds located below the stem is suppressed by the main point of growth of the stem. Therefore, gardeners pinch the top of the stem with the growing point to allow the lateral buds to grow; the plant in this case becomes more magnificent. This procedure does not stop the growth of the apex at all - after a while it resumes. Not all plants in the garden need to be pinched; it all depends on your goals. If you are preparing flowers for an exhibition, you will need to pinch or pinch the plants. Faded heads are often removed due to their scruffy appearance, but there may be other reasons.

Many early flowering herbaceous perennials can be made to bloom again by trimming them. Other plants manage to extend their flowering period by regularly removing old, dead flowers. Plants naturally bloom to attract pollinators and produce seeds for the survival and spread of the species. But the development of seeds takes a lot of energy. So that it does not affect flowering in the next season, it is better to prevent it in plants using bulbs, corms, rhizomes or tubers for vegetative propagation. Plants will bloom consistently every year unless they are allowed to form seeds. They will even try to produce more flowers as if hoping to eventually get the seeds. Some plants easily produce seeds that are self-sowing throughout the area. You don’t need to let this happen if you don’t want them to overwhelm everything.

How it's done. In some plants, for example, heathers, lavender, a number of herbs, flowers are formed on long elongated shoots. Cut them off so as not to weaken the plant and so that the elongated, bare at the base of the stems do not spoil the appearance of the plant. Garden shears and single-handle shears are useful for trimming heathers and related plants and for removing dead flowers from a number of large herbaceous perennials. In flowers like pansies, old flowers are most conveniently picked with a large and forefinger... Shears are good for sturdier stems, pruners are good for woody plants. When removing flowers from bushes, cut the branch back to the previous bud, usually in the leaf axil. If the side shoot is ready to grow, cut back to it.

Carnations. Have garden carnations cut flowers to prolong flowering; greenhouse, constantly flowering (for sale) varieties require more attention. Carnations with several flowering shoots are not pinched, but pinched. However, varieties with single flowers and early flowering do not pinch, they are stepson! Carnations with several shoots are formed by pinching the first small pair of leaves two to three weeks after planting. This stimulates the growth of lateral stems, but slows down flowering. Carnation stems are articulate. The buds in two or three nodes at the base of the stems are removed from carnations with single branches. Others, higher up the stem, are left with buds. Once you find the growing point (the main flower bud), you must remove the six ones below. Cut the main stem with the flower above the node with the bud. After such a pinch, the remaining kidneys will develop into healthy ones. side shoots and will bloom.

Chrysanthemums. For annuals, pinching the upper kidney is beneficial, they grow into lush bushes, serving as an ornament to any flower bed. They are often cut for bouquets; By removing the inflorescences, you will extend their flowering period. For winter-hardy perennials, it is enough to remove faded inflorescences. Delicate chrysanthemums are distinguished by flower type, size and season. Only large and medium-flowered varieties are pinned. However, the growth point of all chrysanthemums that have reached a height of 15 cm is pinched in order to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots. Then you remove one or two side shoots from each stem daily until you have the number of shoots you want - usually about six for flower beds and bouquets, but two or three for show specimens.

The growth point is then removed again, since this bud is larger and blooms earlier than the lateral ones. Even if this flower bud did not form in early summer, the growth point is still pinched, otherwise the growth of lateral buds will slow down. The remaining stems now produce their own side shoots with buds. They are removed as they grow, leaving one inflorescence on each stem. Other lateral shoots growing on the flowering stem are also pinched off. Remove them every one to two days. If in chrysanthemums with unremoved buds, which are going to form lateral shoots, the bud at the point of growth is ahead of the surrounding buds in growth, it should be pinched off.

Stepping

The lateral shoot of the chrysanthemum has a growing point and other buds below. Remove the bottom buds to make one nice flower.

Dahlias. Pinch the top bud a month after planting in the flower bed, when strong shoots appear. If you are preparing them for a show, limit the number of side shoots. Dahlias are distinguished by the shape and size of the flowers. Leave "giants" (over 25 cm) 2-3 stems, large (20-25 cm) - 3-4 stems, medium (15-20 cm) - up to 5-7 stems, small (10-15 cm) - up to 8-10 and "miniature" (less than 10 cm) - up to 10-12 stems. Also, when growing pompom dahlias, pinch the side shoots as soon as they produce two leaves. This will produce a mass of flowers 5 cm in size. When removing faded flowers, trim them to the emerging lateral shoot. This will prevent the plant from becoming long, slender, with a drooping top.

Roses. Some roses form two or three buds at the cut, you only need to leave one of them. If left alone, they will produce weak stems. Preparing for the exhibition hybrid tea roses, inspect the stems and remove any excess flowers that may have grown on a single stem. Cut off all but one of the flowers. When removing faded roses, trim to the first leaf with five leaves below the flower. When cutting off faded floribunda roses, make sure you remove the entire "bunch" of flowers down to the first five-leafed leaf on the main stem. Since the removal of the growth point is repeated blooming roses stimulates new growth, spend it in early autumn. Otherwise, tender young shoots will be killed by early frosts. The buds below the old flowers are best left dormant so that they can grow next spring.

Sweet pea. It must be pinched as soon as two or three true leaves appear, since the first shoot usually does not bear flowers, although it stretches up to 1 meter. After pinching, the plant will produce two shoots from the base, both of which will bloom.

Plants to pinch. Herbaceous perennials with a single flowering until late summer: gravilat (Geum), lungwort (Pulmonaria), delphinium and geranium (Geranium). Sweet pea. Garden carnations. Plants that form bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. Plants in flower beds: dahlias, African marigolds, nemesia, pelargonium (Pelargonia), pansies... Roses with re-flowering. Self-sowing plants: cuff (Achemilla), decorative bows (Allium), catchments (Aquilegia).

Plants that do not pinch. Plants with beautiful dry flower heads; seeds or fruits grown for decoration: lunar, hydrangea, poppy. Most of the flowers in the flower beds. Bushes that bloom once a year: lilac, viburnum, fragrant mock-orange. Cold-sensitive plants in cold gardens where old flower heads protect new buds: hydrangea. Fruits and fruits intended for food, decoration or planting: Pyracantha, quince (edible and decorative varieties), cotoneaster, rose hips with decorative fruits.

Ecology of cognition. How to care for asters so that they have compact view, bloomed for a long time and did not hurt? Aster seeds are best sown before winter in open ground in late autumn. Can be sown in spring as well. To do this, in the fall, a new place is allocated for a seedling bed. It is made at least 20 cm high so that the earth warms up faster in spring.

How to care for asters so that they have a compact appearance, bloom for a long time and do not get sick?

Aster seeds are best sown before winter in open ground in late autumn. Can be sown in spring as well. To do this, in the fall, a new place is allocated for a seedling bed. It is made at least 20 cm high so that the earth warms up faster in spring. Ripe humus is added in advance, scattered with "Kemira" and dug up. In early April, if the snow has not melted yet, sprinkle the ridge wood ash, and in two weeks it is ready for sowing. Loosen the surface with a dagger, level it and make edges around the edges so that water does not drain off when watering.

Seeds are a must! process against fungal diseases any fungicidal agent. And also carry out hardening with variable low temperatures.

Store seeds for sowing in the winter on the refrigerator door. Take it out a week before sowing to keep warm. Etch in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and soak in Epin, then rinse and dry on a newspaper. You can sow the next day; prepared seeds cannot be stored for a long time.

Asters prefer to grow in loamy soils. Asters cannot stand fresh humus in the soil and are often affected by fungal diseases.

The abundance and duration of flowering is achieved by dressing, which is carried out regularly. The first feeding is done as soon as the plants grow actively. Then two dressings are carried out in June, then in July.

Asters do not grow well on dry soils, so watering should be regular. The development of the plant depends on watering. With a sufficient amount of moisture, the bushes have a longer flowering.

Do not forget about loosening the soil, the rule applies here: watering today - loosening tomorrow.

To make the aster bushes look beautiful and have a compact shape, be sure to pinch the tops of the stems.

ASTER DISEASES:

Fusarium

How to define this disease? The first signs are wilting of inflorescences and leaves. Do not process a diseased specimen! It must be urgently removed from the flower garden and burned! A healthy plants treat with a fungicide.

Septoriasis

Septoria is manifested in the form brown spots on the leaves, the leaves begin to turn yellow. Plants are recommended to be treated with copper-containing preparations at the first sign.

Blackleg

Darkening and thickening of the stem base is a sign of black leg disease. Most often, asta seedlings are ill with this disease, therefore it is recommended to sow asters before winter. In greenhouse conditions, asters most often get sick. This usually happens when the cultivation technique is violated. For prophylaxis, treat the plantings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, ash and loosen the soil in a timely manner. You can also use drugs such as Fundazol and Tsineb.

How long can cut asters be kept in a vase?

Add to water - one teaspoon of sugar, per vase of water (two liters). Lower leaves cut off. Cut off wilted flower stalks. published

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