Wardrobe bed do it yourself mk. Instructions for creating a wardrobe bed with your own hands (drawings, diagrams and photos) Homemade wardrobe bed

If you value your small and cozy apartment, despite all the hardships and deprivations that it presents to you every day, this lesson is for you. You can significantly increase the free space in the bedroom with just one item - this is a folding bed with your own hands. The main and most expensive element in this assembly is spring mechanism, with which any regular wardrobe can turn into an unusual folding bed.

Step 1: Cabinet Frame

Before starting work on assembling the cabinet frame, you need to decide on the wood. As the main material, we chose the cheapest plywood sheets, which were immediately cut to size for us in the workshop. So when you go to choose material, you need to have a clear idea of ​​​​what you want to get in the end and have detailed plan or drawing of a folding bed. We connect three plywood sheets in the form of the letter P and twist them with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

Step 2: Back baffles

When the U-shaped structure is already formed, it remains to strengthen it with transverse plywood sheets. The first bar on top goes at an angle, it will serve as the head of the bed, which is why it is better to tilt it slightly away from the bed. Below, under the headboard, we have a plywood partition, and under it, on the other hand, a beam that gives rigidity to the entire structure.

Step 3: Bed base

As a base for the bed, we made a frame of boards 10 cm high and 2.5 cm thick, in size our frame should fit perfectly into the frame near the wall. From below, under the frame, we fasten two sheets of plywood, cover the joint of the two sheets again with a plywood sheet.

Step 4: We put it against the wall and fasten the folding mechanism

As soon as the base is ready, we substitute it to the wall and fix it with the help of corners, dowels and self-tapping screws. We will also definitely need a folding mechanism, which must be screwed on the sides of the base in accordance with the instructions (detailed and understandable) included in the kit. You will not find such a mechanism in an ordinary hardware store, so if you do not have a specialized store nearby, we advise you to look for it on the Internet.

Step 5: Putting the Body and Bed Together

At this stage, you just need an assistant, without which it will not be easy to screw and hold the mattress frame. It is noteworthy that already at this stage, after you have connected the folding mechanism with the frame for the mattress, you can safely use such a bed, but you still need to complete the finishing work.

Step 6: Finishing

To make the front of the folding bed look like a closet, we used this simple trick. Pre-cut plywood blanks will form the appearance of two doors and will be able to effectively, and most importantly, inexpensively diversify the boring facade of our bed. How and with what to fasten these boards can be seen in the photo below, you can use both nails and short self-tapping screws.

Well, it was the turn of the dirtiest of all processes - painting. We decided to lighten the whole project a little and used the traditional white paint, you have a large choice, so do not be afraid to experiment, create and develop your own individual style.

Step 7: Finished Foldaway Bed

We deliberately did not disclose the details of installing the legs, since they usually come with folding mechanism, or sold separately also with fairly clear instructions.

Voila! Not too bad for a budget project and a first attempt at something like this. Now it's time to bring in bedside tables, lamps, a mattress, a blanket, pillows, a large rug. Finally screw on the two handles on the front of the body to make it look more like a closet, and so that there is something to pull on the bed body.

An example of using and building a similar folding bed

Lack of space in modern apartments leads in topics for jokes along with Chapaev and mother-in-law. The fourth generation of storytellers cover up gaps in communal arrangements with laughter. A separate refrain is the cramped kitchens and spending the night on the floor during the visit of relatives from the village. One of the exits in the search for compact sleeping places is the sofa bed option, but in terms of comfort level up to comfortable orthopedic mattress he just doesn't fit. The best option both for the combined bedroom-living room and for the children's room there will be a wardrobe-bed. Finding a suitable one in a store is virtually unrealistic, so we will make a wardrobe bed with our own hands.

Make your own wardrobe bed

Necessary tool for making a wardrobe-bed

The list in this section is the same for almost all such enterprises. But there are nuances, so be careful.

• Perforator with a drill of at least 10 mm in diameter. Since the lever of effort in the lifting structure is very large, fastening to the wall must be as reliable as possible. No plastic or wood dowels. Only anchor fastenings, with a diameter of 10-12 and a length of at least 80 mm.
• Drill driver with a chuck up to 12 mm and a set of bits, including the obligatory hexagon for confirmations.
• Roulette.
• Construction right angle with measuring ruler up to 400 mm.
• Level, over 500 mm long.
• Drills for wood, diameter 5 and 8 mm. They are sold in sets and individually.
• Perovoye drill with a diameter of 18-20 mm.
• Iron, pencil, fine sandpaper, dry rag.
• Adjustable wrench or a set of ordinary car keys.

Note: If you do not understand the terms used here and below, look at their meaning before getting down to business. Encyclopedic knowledge in other areas will not help to explain to the seller of a specialty store.

Furniture fittings store

To make a transformer bed with your own hands, you need to contact a specialized store. You will not be able to buy the necessary spare parts in the usual household, as well as correctly, “cleanly” cut chipboard at home. Just look at the attached drawings to understand the seriousness of the mechanism. But you should not be afraid - each kit is accompanied by an installation diagram, which even an entomologist will figure out, not to mention an ordinary sane man. Subject to the dimensions of the parts, you do not have to worry about the reliability of the mechanism.

Lifting mechanism and legs for wardrobe-bed

Detail of the wardrobe-bed

The scheme and dimensions are indicated for a chipboard thickness of 18 mm, processed with a 0.5 mm thick melamine edge. The dimensions of the orthopedic mattress are provided as 2000x1600x220 mm. The design itself is designed for a mattress with a metal main frame - such are used for the manufacture of beds with a lifting bed of the "ottoman" type.

The floor and walls must be at least approximately even (with a delta of no more than 5 mm per meter of length), otherwise the entire structure will loosen, breaking the fasteners.

• 2282x420 - 2 pieces, cabinet sides.
• 1695x420 - 2 pieces, top and bottom of the cabinet.
• 1685x2235 - front panel. As a rule, it is made one and only after that it is decorated with overhead elements that visually “divide” the plane into several false doors.
• 2038x150 - 2 pcs., sidewalls of the strapping of the mattress frame.
• 1605x150 - 2 pieces, front and rear of the frame trim.
• 1690x350 - 2 pcs., stiffeners. Since the cabinet box is assembled without rear wall one of them will serve as a headboard.

When ordering parts, you must choose the edging option: either the sawmill company glues them for a fee, or you do it yourself.

In the latter case, the self-adhesive edge is applied to the end of the part with the adhesive side down and ironed with an iron heated to 3/4 power. After that, it is necessary to immediately hold it several times with a dry cloth in order to press it properly. Carefully cut off the excess edge and clean the chamfers with sandpaper.

Required fittings

It is better to print out the drawings of the lifting mechanism and take it with you to the hardware store - it will be more correct.

Lifting mechanism diagram

Leg scheme

The selection of the force of the gas springs is indicated in the table in the figure.

Calculation of the force of gas springs

In addition, you will need:

• Confirmations 5x70. In this case, it is better to buy them not in a package, but by the piece, 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 4x16.
• Self-tapping screws 4x30.
• Furniture corners 20x20 mm, 10 pcs.
• Metal corners, reinforced 60x60. Since the upper ones will be visible, we recommend choosing forged ones. They are more aesthetic.
• Anchor fixture. It was said about him above, 10x80 mm.
• Furniture handles, at least 160 mm long - for easy grip.
• Layout or other elements of facade decoration. Ready-made ones are sold in building markets, glued to the facade with superglue.

It remains to find out the main thing: how to make a wardrobe bed with your own hands.

Assembling the wardrobe bed

The top, bottom and stiffeners of the cabinet are drilled into the end with a 5 mm drill, the sidewalls are drilled into a plane with a diameter of 8 mm. That is, the sidewalls are overhead parts, and the rest are internal. The box is pulled together with confirmations and placed in the chosen place. Reinforced corners attached to the wall with anchor bolts.

Attention! Before installing to the wall, it is necessary to accurately measure the verticality of the sidewalls and the right angles between them and the horizontal parts. At the installation site of the box, the plinth will have to be removed.

We carefully mark and install the fixed parts of the opening mechanism on the sidewalls.

By the same principle, the mattress strapping is drilled and assembled. The planks of the orthopedic base are attached according to the scheme applied by the manufacturer to the strapping, the mating, moving part is also screwed to it lifting mechanism. With a spade drill x18 mm, holes for hidden legs are drilled in the upper (with the mechanism raised) part of the strapping.

The delicate part of the work is the fitting and fastening of the front panel. At the slightest deviation, it will stand up crooked, so it is recommended that you first fix it only on four out of ten furniture corners to the outer part of the strapping and carefully measure the gaps. If necessary, correct the position and screw already tightly.

Remember to insert the hidden legs into the prepared holes before final assembly facade.

Attention! Some may think that this is big square facade - perfect place for a mirror. However, the mirror is not designed for dynamic loads and, even if it is well fixed, is likely to crack without a rigid frame. In addition, do not overweight the structure.

As you can see, making a wardrobe bed yourself is not so much difficult as unusual for a person who has never been involved in furniture manufacturing. Decorate facade panel decorative overlays, choose a place for pens and - a pleasant stay.

How to make a large do-it-yourself double bed. In continuation of the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of ​​11m2. In addition to a small area, the room had another drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. The installed double bed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to balcony door when going around the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Trips to furniture stores and furniture-making showrooms offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lifting bed. But even here there were problems, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions double lifting bed with a mattress size of 160 cm by 200 cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed in the raised state and the height of the bed in the lowered state. All the considered bed designs basically contained chipboard, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, just went through the roof. This was determined by a simple calculation of the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, immediately there was a desire to make a bed yourself and with your own hands. The Internet has helped with this issue.

How to make a large do-it-yourself bed

The work began with the search for the most important part of the lifting bed - hinges. Were considered various options lifting mechanisms with spring loops, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with electric drive. The choice fell on the application of the most proven and realizable method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring loops. The question "how to do?" the bed with his own hands was already decided with the selected option of the loops. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen, the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later, the transport company delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.

Receipt of the cargo became the countdown for the start of work. The next day, the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown away and a new one was immediately bought with a size of 2000 × 1600 × 200 mm. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I did not have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Originally intended to go classic version- the manufacture of a wall structure, where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the whole bed out of wood instead of Chipboard boards, greatly increased the cost of materials. This is where the idea came to use two cabinets standing in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to the following design of the lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick glued boards with a section of 250 × 40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm glued boards, crossbars made of bars with a section of 45 × 45 mm. Do not be too lazy to choose cross-beams without knots and defects, the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I confess that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts - whether the design of the bottom would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed would break under me;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lifting built-in bed. Unfortunately, a photo chronicle of the manufacture of a makeshift bed was kept, but, as it happens, it was not preserved with a small exception. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.

Instructions for making a homemade lifting bed

1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed was a box of four boards and four crossbars to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.

2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes before cutting out, a stencil is cut out of cardboard. Carefully apply the contour for cutting out, incorrect marking after sawing out will ruin the board, there is no margin for length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the spike of one board must correspond to the groove between the spikes of the other board. The boards originally had a size larger by 30-50mm outer dimension box, this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.

3. The spikes were selected with an electric jigsaw and trimmed, if necessary, with a construction knife and a chisel.

4. After selecting the spikes on a flat surface (I had the floor of the room), the bed frame is assembled, it is necessary to check the internal dimensions and lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to equal diagonals.

5. We mark the installation sites of the crossbars. The slots are selected by hand milling machine, sampling depth 30mm. Nothing worse than doing it carefully with a chisel.

6. After selecting the grooves, the blanks were polished and coated with a colorless varnish on water based. A total of 3 layers were applied. After complete drying of the varnish, the work continued.

7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars, taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. Do not throw away the scraps, they will still be needed.

8. We connect the crossbars and spike joints of the frame with glue. Prepare for this operation. The best connection will work when connected with force. Effort is created using rope loops twisted wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! Be sure to make linings so that the ropes do not damage the boards. It is necessary to twist the loop until significant efforts occur during twisting.

It is very important to set all the corners and constantly control the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. It is necessary to dry the glue thoroughly and reliably. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.

9. After the frame was made, the room was rearranged, one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the outer width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.

10. It is natural to fasten hinges to simply standing closet did not. Cabinets need to be reinforced and fixed. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were rigidly screwed to the walls with furniture screws, and all existing threaded connections pulled up. Each cabinet is bolted to the wall at least three points with the help of corners. As a result, the cabinets were rooted to the spot :).

11. Since there was no clarity on how the bed was assembled, I decided to install hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the course of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, the board, when lowering the bed, passes 3 cm from the wall. The rotation axis coordinates are shown in the sketch.

12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame mounted on a support and the actual loop mounted on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.

13. The hinges were fastened with furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with corresponding threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes, the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you go my way, then at least four springs must be removed from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.

14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The construction of the box was still light and without much difficulty I inserted the hinges into the frames and fixed them with standard brackets. With fewer springs, the frame fell easily and remained at the bottom with a little weight, and when it was raised, it also had to be held. The room immediately became freer. Further, all work was carried out on a fixed bed.

15. The next step was to strengthen the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they could withstand the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. The bottom was decided to be made of 6mm plywood.

16. Bars with a section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame around the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. In order not to damage the boards, it is necessary to lay gaskets. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work were carried out 7 days after gluing the last bar.

17. For the legs in the upper end board of the bed frame, 2 square holes are selected. Initially, there were doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.

18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since standard width plywood sheet 1500mm, two sheets of plywood with dimensions 1500x1500mm were bought in the store.

19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. The plywood was supposed to be fastened with glue, and to create pressure in the places of gluing, drill through the plywood through holes with a diameter of 3 mm for pressing sheets with self-tapping screws. Plywood laid out on inner frame and future holes are outlined, to reduce notches in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling with reverse side plywood sheets. In the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in pieces of plywood for access to the leg fasteners.

20. Places for installing sheets are liberally lubricated with glue and plywood sheets are pressed with self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for a few days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several steps until the glue dries completely. Some of the screws left in place.

21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to facilitate lifting, it no longer spontaneously rose. In the process of drying, the looseness of gluing plywood with bars is additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks in the bed.

22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from the hinges and install three more springs. Further the bed will become heavier and the installation of springs will require more effort.

23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was solid. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and varnished with a water-based varnish in three layers.

24. After the varnish has dried, a mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress in the straightened state turned out to be slightly larger and therefore held tightly in the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional mount, as in the site, was not required.

25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, according to the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. For this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bedbugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket with pillows was pressed against the mattress by straps.

26. Finishing continued with the installation of lining from the side of the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom of the old bed were used. The sheets were fastened with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are exposed in one plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily raise the bed.
27. For strict fixation of the bed in a vertical position, bed movement limiters are mounted when lifting. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as a dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board, a shock absorber made of sponge rubber is installed at the place of contact with the bed. It is better to fix a piece of the board with glue and self-tapping screws. The adhesive mount failed and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.

Among the most common pieces of furniture that are called transformers, it is worth noting a retractable podium bed. This piece of furniture can help save space. And you can make it yourself, but before starting work, you have to choose the most suitable option designs.

A transforming bed is very convenient not only in small rooms, but also in large ones, because thanks to its transformation, it is able to turn a room into a living room or a rest room during the day, and into a bedroom at night.

One of its varieties is based on a podium with a mattress located on it, while inside there is a place for linen and bedding. Another option is a podium, folded and not at all reminiscent of a bed. In its lower part there is a retractable bed. The frame of such furniture can be made of timber. The middle cross bar and outer panels are cut from a 22 mm board. On fig. 1 you can see the drawing, which shows the installation diagram of the structure and its dimensions.

Detailing with decoding

Detailing of the bed, all dimensions are in millimeters (board 22 mm):

• A - outer part of the side block - 1910x330;
• B, C - headboard and outer backrest (2 pcs.) - 1650x330;
• D - side elements of the upper side (2 pcs.) - 1932x150;
• E- rear element upper side - 1710x150;
• F - external slats of drawers (2 pcs.) - 953x320;
• G - transverse middle bar - 1910x100;
• H - side elements of the back (2 pcs.) - 330x100.

Figure 1. Scheme of a double bed with drawers.

Detailing the walls of the boxes (board 16 mm):

• I - elements for the far walls (2 pcs.) - 778x240;
• J - elements for side walls (4 pcs.) - 760x240.

Detailing of the internal parts of the blocks (chipboard 19 mm):

• K - element for internal panels on the side of the located block (1 pc.) - 1910x330;
• L - element for the inner panels of the back - 1606x330;
• M - elements of the middle component (2 pcs.) - 1479x272;
• N - transverse parts of the middle block (4 pcs.) - 272x142;
• - transverse parts of the back and side component (2 pcs.) - 330x81.

As for detailing the bottom of the boxes, they will have to use 10 mm plywood to get 2 elements with dimensions 788x748 (P). The transverse side planks should be made of a beam with a cross section equal to 27x27 mm, while the beam 27x47 mm will go to the supports where the mattress will be located. A drawing drawn up on the basis of the presented detailing will allow you to properly cut and assemble the bed.

Back to index

Assembling a transforming bed

Necessary tools and materials:

• beam;
• board;
• wing nuts;
• bolts;
• drill;
• glue;
• clamp;
• screws.

This transformer furniture must be made of 3 components that form the basis of the bed. On fig. 2 you can see the assembly of the main components of the bed.

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening the guides.

The back and side component must be mated at a right angle. The third element divides the base into 2 parts, in which roll-out structures will be located.

The main components with the headboard are preferably fixed with wing nuts and bolts with nuts. This will allow you to get a collapsible design.

Blocks must be mounted with 8 mm pins. For them, it is worth drilling holes with a drill. The joints of the block elements should be treated with glue, and after that, until it sets, the structure should remain under pressure.

The middle block is the shortest, and 4 spacers hold it. In the upper part of its two panels, it is necessary to equip the recesses through which the transverse middle bar will pass. They need to give dimensions equal to 100x22 mm.

Collecting, with inside on the side of the located main component, back and headboard, horizontally fixed bars with a section of 47 × 27 mm must be installed. This work can be done with screws and glue. After you can proceed to the installation of support bars. They need to be installed so that there are 3 bars on the back and headboard: one of them should be located in the center, the other two on the sides. On the side of the located block, you will need to use two bars, which will be placed close to each other, where the central component is fixed.

The bars must be supplemented with grooves designed for the middle transverse bar. Holes of 4.5 mm should also be prepared for screws.

On the side of the withdrawable systems, insert and fix the T-shaped stops. Their use is due to the need to support parallel crossbars located in front.

The transformer structure on each wall of the withdrawable element must be supplemented with grooves, the depth of which is 5 mm, and a 10 mm cutter should be used. They will be needed to install the plywood bottom. It is necessary to arrange the grooves depending on the height of the roller wheels.

A gap of 10 mm should be left from the bottom of the withdrawable element to the floor surface. Their walls must be mated using flat spikes in the process, which must be placed in the grooves. The front surface of the drawers should protrude beyond their side walls by 40 mm and by 103 mm in its center.

On the walls of the boxes located on the side, you need to install a 13 × 13 mm bar. Rails must be installed on both sides of the middle block. And on the back and headboard it is necessary to strengthen along the backing bar with dimensions of 47x27 mm, only after that it is worth strengthening the guides on them. This will eliminate the possibility that the guide groove will overlap with bars.

Before starting work, drawings should be drawn up, which can be submitted to the workshop for cutting blanks.