Pulsating jet engine. How to make a mini jet engine with your own hands at home - homemade device diagram Do-it-yourself ramjet engine

The most difficult thing to manufacture and the most important for the operation of the turbine is the compressor stage. It usually requires precision CNC or hand-powered machining tools to assemble it. Luckily, the compressor operates at low temperatures and can be 3D printed.

Another thing that is usually very difficult to replicate at home is what is called a "nozzle vane" or simply NGV. Through trial and error, the author found a way to do this without using a welding machine or other exotic tools.

What you will need:
1) 3D printer capable of working with PLA filament. If you have an expensive one like an Ultimaker that's great, but a cheaper one like a Prusa Anet will work too;
2) You must have enough PLA to print all the parts. ABS is not suitable for this project as it is too soft. You can probably use PETG, but this has not been tested, so do so at your own risk;
3) Tin can of appropriate size (diameter 100 mm, length 145 mm). Preferably the jar should have a removable lid. You can use a regular jar (say, pineapple chunks), but then you'll need to make a metal lid for it;
4) Galvanized iron sheet. A thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal. You can choose a different thickness, but you may have difficulty bending or sanding, so be prepared. In any case, you will need at least a short strip of galvanized iron 0.5 mm thick to make a spacer for the turbine casing. 2 pieces will do. Size 200 x 30 mm;
5) Stainless steel sheet for making turbine wheel, NGV wheel and turbine casing. Again, a thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal.
6) Solid steel rod for making turbine shaft. Beware: mild steel just doesn't work here. You will need at least some carbon steel. Hard alloys will be even better. The shaft diameter is 6 mm. You can choose a different diameter, but then you will need to find suitable materials for making a hub;
7) 2 pcs. 6x22 bearings 626zz;
8) 1/2" pipes 150 mm long and two end fittings;
9) drilling machine;
10) Sharpener
11) Dremel (or something similar)
12) Metal hacksaw, pliers, screwdriver, M6 die, scissors, vice, etc.;
13) a piece of copper or stainless steel pipe for spraying fuel;
14) A set of bolts, nuts, clamps, vinyl tubes and other things;
15) propane or butane torch

If you want to start the engine, you will also need:

16) Propane tank. There are gasoline or kerosene engines, but getting them to run on these fuels is a bit difficult. It's best to start with propane and then decide if you want to switch to liquid fuel or if you're already happy with gas fuel;
17) A pressure gauge capable of measuring pressure of several mm of water.
18) Digital tachometer for measuring turbine speed
19) Starter. To start a jet engine you can use:
Fan (100 W or more). Better centrifugal)
electric motor (100W or more, 15000rpm; you can use your Dremel here).

Making a hub

The hub will be made from:
1/2" pipe 150 mm long;
two 1/2" hose fittings;
and two bearings 626zz;
Using a hacksaw, cut off the herringbones from the fittings, and use a drill bit to enlarge the remaining holes. Insert the bearings into the nuts and screw the nuts onto the pipe. The hub is ready.

Making a shaft

Theory (and experience to some extent) says that it makes no difference whether you make a shaft from mild steel, hard steel or stainless steel. So choose the one that is more accessible to you.

If you expect to get decent thrust from the turbine, it is better to use a steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm (or larger). However, at the time of writing, the shaft was only 6 mm.

Cut an M6 thread on one side to a length of 35 mm. Next, you need to cut the thread from the other end of the rod so that when the rod is inserted into the hub (the bearings rest against the end of the pipe are tightened using the nuts that you made from hose fittings) and when the lock nuts are screwed to the end of the thread on both sides, between the nuts and bearings leave a small gap. This is a very complicated procedure. If the thread is too short and the longitudinal play is too large, you can cut the thread a little further. But if the thread seems too long (and there is no longitudinal play at all), it will be impossible to fix it.

As an option - shafts from laser printer, they are exactly 6mm in diameter. Their disadvantage is that their limit is 20-25000 rpm. If you want higher speeds, use thicker rods.

3D printing of turbine wheel and NGV dies

For the manufacture of a turbine wheel, or rather its blades, press dies are used.
The shape of the blade becomes smoother if you press the blade not to the final shape in one step (pass), but to some intermediate shape (1st pass) and only then to the final shape (2nd pass). Therefore, there is an STL for both types of press dies. For the 1st pass and for the second.

Here are the STL matrix files for the NGV wheel and the STL files for the turbine wheel matrices:

Manufacturing of impellers

This design uses 2 types of steel wheels. Namely: turbine wheel and NGV wheel. Stainless steel is used for their manufacture. If they were made of lightweight or galvanized material, they would barely be enough to show how the engine works.

You can cut the discs out of sheet metal and then drill a hole in the center, but most likely you won't hit the center. Therefore, drill a hole in a sheet of metal, and then glue the paper template so that the hole in the metal and the hole in the paper template coincide. Cut the metal according to the template.

Drill auxiliary holes. (Note that the center holes should already be drilled. Also note that the turbine wheel only has a center hole.)

It's also a good idea to leave a little allowance when cutting the metal and then sharpen the edge of the discs using a drill press and a sharpener.
At this point it may be better to make several backup drives. It will become clear why later.

Blade formation

Sliced discs are difficult to fit into the molding die. Use pliers to turn the blades slightly. Discs with pre-twisted blades are much easier to form with dies. Place the disk between the halves of the press and squeeze it in a vice. If the dies were pre-lubricated with machine oil, everything will go much easier.

The vice is a fairly weak press, so you'll likely need to hit the assembly with a hammer to compress it further. Use several wooden pads to avoid breaking the plastic dies.

Two-step shaping (using 1st pass matrices and 2nd pass matrices to finalize the shape) gives definitely better results.

Making a support

The document file with the template for the support is here:

Cut a piece from a stainless steel sheet, drill required holes and bend the piece as shown in the photos.

Making a set of metal spacers

If you had a lathe, you could make all the spacers on it. Another way to do this is to cut several flat disks from a sheet of metal, stack them on top of each other, and bolt them tightly together to create a three-dimensional piece.

Use a 1mm thick mild (or galvanized) steel sheet here.

Documents with templates for spacers are here:

You will need 2 small disks and 12 large ones. The quantity is given for a sheet of metal 1 mm thick. If you use a thinner or thicker one, you will need to adjust the number of discs to get the correct overall thickness.
Cut the discs and drill holes. Grind discs of the same diameter as described above.

Support washer

Since the backing washer holds the entire NGV assembly, you must use thicker material here. You can use a suitable steel washer or sheet (black) of at least 2mm thickness.

Template for support washer:

Assembling the NGV Interior

You now have all the parts to assemble the NGV. Install them onto the hub as shown in the photos.

The turbine needs some pressure to normal operation. And in order to prevent the free spread of hot gases, we need a so-called “turbine casing”. Otherwise, the gases will lose pressure immediately after passing through the NGV. For proper functioning, the casing must match the turbine + a small gap. Since our turbine wheel and NGV wheel are the same diameter, we need something to provide the necessary clearance. This something is a turbine casing spacer. It's simply a strip of metal that wraps around the NGV wheel. The thickness of this sheet determines the size of the gap. Use 0.5mm here.

Simply cut a strip 10 mm wide and 214 mm long from a sheet of any steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

The turbine casing itself will be a piece of metal, the diameter of the NGV wheel. Or better yet, a couple of pieces. Here you have more freedom in choosing the thickness. The casing is not just a strip because it has attachment tabs.

The documentation file with the template for the turbine casing is here:

Place the shroud spacer onto the NGV blades. Secure with steel wire. Find a way to secure the spacer so it doesn't move when the wire is removed. You can use soldering.

Then remove the wire and screw the turbine casing onto the spacer. Use the wire again to wrap tightly.

Do as shown in the photos. The only connection between the NGV and the hub is three M3 screws. This limits the heat flow from the hot NGV to the cold hub and prevents the bearings from overheating.

Check if the turbine can rotate freely. If not, align the NGV housing by changing the position of the adjusting nuts on the three M3 screws. Adjust the tilt of the NGV until the turbine can rotate freely.

Making a combustion chamber

Paste this template over the metal sheet. Drill holes and cut the shape. There is no need to use stainless steel here. Roll into a cone. To prevent it from unfolding, bend it.
The front of the camera is here:

Use this template again to make a cone. Use a chisel to make wedge slits and then roll into a cone. Secure the cone with a bend. Both parts are held together only by friction from the engine. Therefore, you don’t need to think about how to secure them at this stage.

Working wheel

The impeller consists of two parts:
disk with blades and casing

This is a Kurt Schreckling impeller that has been heavily modified by me to be more tolerant of longitudinal movement. Note the labyrinth that prevents air from returning due to back pressure. Print both parts and glue the cover onto the disc with the blades. Good results can be obtained using acrylic epoxy resin.

Compressor stator (diffuser)

This item is very complex shape. And when other parts can (at least in theory) be made without the use of precision equipment, this is impossible. To make matters worse, this part has the greatest impact on the compressor's efficiency. This means that whether the entire engine will work or not is highly dependent on the quality and precision of the diffuser. That's why don't even try to do it manually. Do this on the printer.

For ease of 3D printing, the compressor stator is divided into several parts. Here are the STL files:

3D print and assemble as shown in the photos. Please note that the nut is pipe thread The 1/2" should be attached to the central compressor stator housing. This is used to hold the bushing in place. The nut is secured with 3 M3 screws.
Template for where to drill holes in the nut:

Also note the aluminum foil heat protection cone. It is used to prevent PLA parts from softening due to thermal radiation from the combustion liner. You can use any beer can as a source of aluminum foil here.

You will need a tin can that is 145mm long and 100mm in diameter. It's better if you can use a jar with a lid. Otherwise you will need to install the NGV with the hub on the bottom tin can, and you will have additional problems assembling the engine for maintenance.

Cut off one bottom of the tin can. In the other bottom (or better yet, in the lid), cut a 52 mm round hole. Then cut its edge into sectors as shown in the photographs.

Insert the NGV assembly into the hole. Wrap the sectors steel wire tight.

Make a ring out of copper tube (outside diameter 6 mm, inner diameter 3.7 mm). Or better you can use stainless steel tubes. The fuel ring should fit snugly against the internal components of your canner. Solder it.
Drill the fuel injectors. These are just 16 pieces of 0.5 mm holes, evenly distributed around the ring. The direction of the holes should be perpendicular to the air flow. Those. need to drill holes in inside rings.

Please note that the presence of so-called "hot spots" in the engine exhaust depends almost exclusively on the quality of the fuel ring. Dirty or uneven bores and you'll end up with an engine that simply destroys itself when you try to start it. The presence of hot spots depends much less on the quality of the liner than others try to say. But the fuel ring is very important.

Check the quality of fuel spray by igniting it. The flames should be equal to each other.

Once completed, install the fuel injector into the can body.

All you have to do at this stage is put all the pieces together. If things go well, this won't be a problem.

Seal the lid of the can with a heat-resistant sealant; you can use silicate glue with a heat-resistant filler. You can use graphite dust, steel powder and so on.

After the engine is assembled, check that the rotor rotates freely. If so, do a preliminary fire test. Use some one enough powerful fan to blow out the air intake or simply rotate the shaft with a dremel. Lightly turn on the fuel and ignite the flow at the rear of the engine. Adjust the rotation to allow the flame to enter the combustion chamber.

NOTE: At this stage you are not trying to start the engine! The only purpose of a fire test is to heat it up and see if it behaves well or not. At this point, you can use a butane cylinder, which is usually used for hand torches. If everything is fine you can move on to the next step. However, it is better to seal the engine with oven sealant (or silicate glue filled with a small amount of heat-resistant powder).

You can start the engine either by blowing air into it or by rotating its shaft with some kind of starter.
Be prepared to burn a few NGV drives (and possibly turbines) when attempting to start. (This is why it was recommended in step 4 to make some backups.) Once you get comfortable with the engine, you should be able to start it at any time without any problems.

Please note that the engine may currently serve primarily educational and entertainment purposes. But it's a fully functional turbo jet engine, capable of rotating to any desired speed (including self-destructive speed). Feel free to improve and modify the design to suit your purposes. First of all, you will need a thicker shaft to achieve higher RPM and therefore traction. The second thing to try is to wrap a metal pipe - a fuel line - around the outside of the engine and use it as an evaporator for liquid fuel. This is where the hot wall motor design comes in handy. Another thing to think about is the lubrication system. In the simplest case, this might take the form of a small bottle with a small amount of oil and two pipes - one pipe to relieve the pressure from the compressor and direct it to the cylinder, and the other pipe to direct the oil from the pressurized cylinder and direct it to the rear beam. Without lubrication, the engine can only run for 1 to 5 minutes depending on the NGV temperature (the higher the temperature, the shorter the running time). After this, you need to lubricate the bearings yourself. And with the added lubrication system, the engine can run for a long time.

How make a jet engine on one's own

Simplest reactive engine. This is a silent pulsating unit. After its invention, it became obvious that it could move a rocket even in vacuum. Due to the widespread use of turbojet engines, the development of the propulsion system in question was suspended. But many amateurs continue to be interested, study and even assemble the block themselves. Let's try to make it reactive own engine hands.

Lokveda stock motor

The device can be made of any size if the required proportions are strictly observed. A handcrafted jet engine will have no moving parts. It can operate on any type of fuel if adaptation is provided for its evaporation before entering the combustion chamber. However, the launch is carried out on gas, since this type of fuel is much more convenient than others. Building the structure is simple and won't cost you much money. But we must prepare for the fact that the jet engine will operate with a lot of noise.

The evaporative atomizer for liquid fuel is also installed by hand. It fits on the end metal pipe, through which propane enters the combustion chamber. However, if you plan to use only gas, this device is not necessary. You can simply run propane through a 4mm pipe. It is attached to the combustion chamber in ten millimeter increments. Sometimes there are also different tubes for propane, kerosene and diesel fuel.

First, gas enters the combustion chamber, and when the first spark begins, engine starts. Cylinders cannot be purchased today. It is convenient, for example, to have eleven kilograms of fuel. If a large flow is expected, the reducer will not provide the required flow. Therefore, in such cases, a simple needle valve is installed. Balloon cannot be completely emptied. Then the tube does not cause a fire.

HOW TO MAKE A JET ENGINE PuVRD?!

I welcome you to the VadimCraftShow channel, and in today's episode I will show you HOW DO .

Homemade turbojet engine. it was IMPOSSIBLE but it worked. Homemade jet engine launched

I know exactly. the impossible is possible. Previous launch. .

From the Russian idea to the German rocket

Assembling a pulsating jet engine is especially pleasant, knowing that the principle of operation of the PuVRD was first patented by the Russian inventor Nikolai Teleshov back in 1864. The authorship of the first operating engine is also attributed to a Russian, Vladimir Karavodin. The famous V-1 cruise missile, which was in service with the German army during World War II, is rightfully considered the highest point in the development of the PuVRD.

To make work pleasant and safe, we first clean the sheet metal from dust and rust using grinder. The edges of sheets and parts are usually very sharp and full of burrs, so you should only work with metal while wearing gloves.

Of course, we're talking about about valve pulsating engines, the principle of operation of which is clear from the figure. The valve at the entrance to the combustion chamber allows air to flow freely into it. Fuel is supplied to the chamber and a combustible mixture is formed. When the spark plug ignites the mixture, excess pressure in the combustion chamber closes the valve. The expanding gases are directed into the nozzle, creating jet thrust. The movement of combustion products creates a technical vacuum in the chamber, due to which the valve opens and air is sucked into the chamber.

Unlike a turbojet engine, in a PURD the mixture does not burn continuously, but in a pulsed mode. This is what explains the characteristic low-frequency noise of pulsating motors, which makes them inapplicable in civil aviation. From the point of view of efficiency, PuVRDs are also inferior to turbojet engines: despite the impressive thrust-to-weight ratio (after all, PuVRDs have a minimum number of parts), the compression ratio in them reaches 1.2:1 at most, so the fuel burns inefficiently.

Before heading to the workshop, we drew and cut out life-size templates for the parts on paper. All that remains is to trace them with a permanent marker to get markings for cutting.

But PuVRDs are invaluable as a hobby: after all, they can do without valves at all. Fundamentally, the design of such an engine consists of a combustion chamber with inlet and outlet pipes connected to it. The inlet pipe is much shorter than the outlet pipe. The valve in such an engine is nothing more than the front of chemical transformations.

The combustible mixture in the PURD burns at subsonic speed. Such combustion is called deflagration (in contrast to supersonic combustion - detonation). When the mixture ignites, flammable gases escape from both pipes. That is why both the inlet and outlet pipes are directed in the same direction and together participate in the creation of jet thrust. But due to the difference in lengths, at the moment when the pressure in the inlet pipe drops, exhaust gases are still moving along the outlet pipe. They create a vacuum in the combustion chamber, and air is drawn into it through the inlet pipe. Some of the gases from the outlet pipe are also directed into the combustion chamber under the influence of vacuum. They compress a new portion of the flammable mixture and set it on fire.

When working with electric scissors, the main enemy is vibration. Therefore, the workpiece must be securely fixed using a clamp. If necessary, you can very carefully dampen the vibrations with your hand.

The valveless pulsating engine is unpretentious and stable. It does not require an ignition system to maintain operation. Due to the vacuum, it sucks in atmospheric air without requiring additional boost. If you build a motor using liquid fuel (for simplicity, we preferred propane gas), then the inlet pipe regularly performs the functions of a carburetor, spraying a mixture of gasoline and air into the combustion chamber. The only time the ignition system and forced induction are needed is starting.

Chinese design, Russian assembly

There are several common pulsejet engine designs. In addition to the classic “U-shaped pipe”, which is very difficult to manufacture, there is often a “Chinese engine” with a conical combustion chamber, to which a small inlet pipe is welded at an angle, and a “Russian engine”, whose design resembles a car muffler.

Fixed diameter pipes are easily formed around the pipe. This is mainly done by hand due to the lever effect, and the edges of the workpiece are rounded using a mallet. It is better to shape the edges so that when joined they form a plane - this makes it easier to place a weld.

Before experimenting with own designs PuVRD, it is strongly recommended to build an engine according to ready-made drawings: after all, the cross-sections and volumes of the combustion chamber, inlet and outlet pipes entirely determine the frequency of resonant pulsations. If the proportions are not followed, the engine may not start. A variety of drawings of the PURD are available on the Internet. We chose a model called the "Giant Chinese Engine", the dimensions of which are given in the sidebar.

Amateur PuVRDs are made from sheet metal. It is permissible to use ready-made pipes in construction, but it is not recommended for several reasons. Firstly, it is almost impossible to select pipes of exactly the required diameter. It is even more difficult to find the necessary conical sections.

Bending conical sections is entirely manual labor. The key to success is to squeeze the narrow end of the cone around a small diameter pipe, putting more load on it than on the wide part.

Secondly, pipes, as a rule, have thick walls and corresponding weight. For an engine that must have good value craving for the masses, this is unacceptable. Finally, during operation the engine becomes red hot. If you use pipes and fittings made of different metals with different expansion coefficients in the design, the motor will not last long.

So, we chose the path that most PURD enthusiasts take - making the body out of sheet metal. And then we were faced with a dilemma: turn to professionals with special equipment (CNC water-abrasive cutting machines, rollers for rolling pipes, special welding) or, armed with the simplest tools and the most common welding machine, go through the difficult path of a beginning engine builder from start to finish. We preferred the second option.

Back to school

The first thing to do is to draw the developments of the future parts. To do this, you need to remember school geometry and quite a bit of university drawing. Making developments for cylindrical pipes is as easy as shelling pears - these are rectangles, one side of which is equal to the length of the pipe, and the other to the diameter multiplied by “pi”. Calculate the development of a truncated cone or truncated cylinder - a little more difficult task, for the solution of which we had to look into the drawing textbook.

Welding thin sheet metal is a delicate job, especially if you use a hand welder. arc welding, like us. Perhaps for this task would be better suited welding with a non-consumable tungsten electrode in an argon environment, but the equipment for it is rare and requires specific skills.

The choice of metal is a very delicate issue. From the point of view of heat resistance, stainless steel is best suited for our purposes, but for the first time it is better to use black low-carbon steel: it is easier to form and weld. The minimum thickness of a sheet that can withstand the temperature of fuel combustion is 0.6 mm. The thinner the steel, the easier it is to form and the more difficult it is to weld. We chose a sheet with a thickness of 1 mm and, it seems, we were right.

Even if your welding machine can operate in plasma cutting mode, do not use it to cut reamers: the edges of parts processed in this way will not weld well. Hand scissors for metal are also not the best choice, since they bend the edges of the workpieces. The perfect tool- electric scissors that cut millimeter sheets like clockwork.

For bending a sheet into a pipe there is special tool- rollers, or sheet bending. It belongs to professional production equipment and therefore is unlikely to be found in your garage. A vice will help you bend a decent pipe.

The process of welding millimeter-sized metal with a full-size welding machine requires some experience. By slightly holding the electrode in one place, it is easy to burn a hole in the workpiece. When welding, air bubbles may get into the seam, which will then leak. Therefore, it makes sense to grind the seam with a grinder until minimum thickness so that the bubbles do not remain inside the seam, but become visible.

In the next episodes

Unfortunately, it is impossible to describe all the nuances of the work in one article. It is generally accepted that these works require professional qualifications, but with due diligence, all of them are accessible to the amateur. We, journalists, were interested in mastering new working specialties, and for this we read textbooks, consulted with professionals and made mistakes.

We liked the body we welded. It's nice to look at, it's nice to hold in your hands. So we sincerely advise you to take up such a task. In the next issue of the magazine we will tell you how to make an ignition system and start a valveless pulse jet engine.

The valveless pulsating engine is the world's simplest jet engine. Its development was unfortunately suspended with the widespread use of turbojet engines, but it continues to be of interest to hobbyists, as it can be built in a home workshop. I built my engine by studying Lockwood's patent, according to which the device can be of any size, as long as certain proportions are observed. The engine has no moving parts, it can also run on any fuel if it is evaporated before entering the combustion chamber (I used a mixture of gasoline and diesel fuel in equal parts), but the start occurs on gas (this is much easier). The design is simple and relatively inexpensive to replicate. I don’t know with what frequency explosions occur in the combustion chamber of my engine, but I guess that this happens about 30-50 times per second, the operation of the device is accompanied by very loud noise. I hope to measure this frequency someday.

The engine runs on propane, which enters the combustion chamber through a long metal tube, at the end of which there is a sprayer that helps evaporate the liquid fuel. When propane is used a nebulizer is not necessary, in my case the gas comes directly through a 4mm ID tube. The tube is connected to the combustion chamber with a 10mm fitting. I have three of these tubes made - one for propane, the other two for diesel fuel and kerosene.

During the starting process, propane is supplied to the combustion chamber, and then just one spark at the plug is enough for the engine to start.

According to the patent, such an engine of any size can be built. My drawing shows my version of the device, which differs slightly from the design of the exhaust pipe proposed in the patent, which simplifies manufacturing, however, since I did not measure the thrust, this may have affected the efficiency. Flow straighteners usually double the thrust and I'm going to try making one.

Abbreviations in the drawing:

NL - nozzle length
NM - nozzle diameter
CL - Combustion chamber length
CM - combustion chamber diameter
TL - Tail tube length
TM - Tail pipe diameter

Gas cylinders can be bought anywhere, I chose an 11-kilogram one with an industrial connector. I did not use any reducers, I simply installed a needle valve, since the gas flow is quite large and a regular reducer will not give the required flow. The chance that the propane in the tube and tank will catch fire is very small if the tank is not completely emptied. In the pictures below you can see what it looks like.

The spark plug is screwed into a specially made lathe part welded into the combustion chamber. You can use any spark plug, I installed an NGK BP6E S without additional resistance, and used a bobbin from an old car. I also made an electronic circuit to produce a spark, which needs to be obtained only once, at the moment the engine starts.

The pipe body is welded from three-millimeter 316L stainless steel. I didn’t know how to calculate the thickness, and just took a thicker sheet, with a margin. The engine was started many times and no problems were found.

I'm building a model that simulates a real mini jet engine, even if my version is electric. In fact, everything is simple and anyone can build a jet engine with their own hands at home.

The way I designed and built a homemade jet engine is not... The best way do it. I can imagine a million ways and schemes how to create best model, more realistic, more reliable and easier to manufacture. But now I've put together one.

Main parts of model jet engine:

Engine direct current strong enough and at least 12 volts
A DC source of at least 12 volts (depending on what kind of DC motor you have).
A rheostat, the same one sold for adjusting the brightness of light bulbs.
A gearbox with a flywheel is found in many car toys. It's best if the gear housing is made of metal because plastic can melt at such high speeds.
A sheet of metal that can be cut to make fan blades.
Ammeter or voltmeter.
Potentiometer at approximately 50K.
Electromagnet coil from a solenoid or any other source.
4 diodes.
2 or 4 permanent magnet.
Cardboard to assemble a body similar to a jet engine body.
Filler for car bodies, to create an exterior.
Rigid wire to support everything. I usually use wires from cheap hangers. They are strong enough and flexible enough to be molded into the desired shape.
Glue. I prefer hot glue for most parts, but pretty much any glue will do for now.
White, silver and black paint.

Step 1: Attach the DC Motor to the Transmission Flywheel

The basis of my jet engine model is very simple. Connect the DC motor to the gearbox. The idea is that the motor drives the part of the gearbox that was attached to the wheels toy car. Place the plastic lever so it hits the small flywheel gear and it makes noise. Some transmissions are already equipped with this device, and some are not.

Step 2: Connect the magnets and the sensor coil

Place 2 or 4 permanent magnets on the main shaft so that the coil can be near them when they rotate. Place them so that the polarity pattern is - + - +. The idea is that the magnets will pass close to the coil and generate a small amount of current, which we will use to move the sensor. But for this to work you need to put 4 diodes in a bridge configuration to convert alternating current, which we generate, into a constant.

Google "diode bridge" to find more information about it. Also, to calibrate the sensor to the desired sensitivity, you need to place a potentiometer between the coil and the sensor.

Step 3: Rheostat for speed control

We need to control the engine speed. To do this, place a rheostat between the outlet and the power source. If you don't know how to do this, Google how to connect a rheostat to light bulbs. But instead of a light bulb we will put a power supply.

Don't try this unless you are 100% sure. We are dealing with a large current and using an inappropriate power source can damage it. How simpler block nutrition, the better. The alternative is to find a DC rheostat so that we can control the voltage after power is applied. I couldn't find one in any store, so I use a rheostat for light bulbs. But if you can find one that will work with a DC motor, then go for it. The idea is to simply control how much current is supplied to the motor, so this will be our inductor.

Step 4: Fan

You can make the fan the way you want. I cut each blade out of a thin sheet of metal and glued them together. You can make them from cardboard and then paint them. Or, if you have access to a 3D printer, you can 3D print a fan. www.thingiverse.com has some great 3D models of fans.

Step 5: Body

You can make the body out of cardboard and then add external filler to give it shape. You'll have to do a lot of sanding, so it's hard and messy work. Once everything is smooth, paint the body with gloss white paint.

The inside of the engine should be painted black. The front of the engine usually has a silver edge that you can paint on if you wish.

Step 6: Starter Mechanism

The starter and fuel handles are mechanically connected. The starter has a switch that connects the engine to the power source. This switch can also be activated by the fuel control lever when it is in the operating position.

The starter spring must be loaded such that it wants to return to its normal position and will only lock the starting position if the fuel control lever is in the disengaged position.

The idea is that the starter will remain in the original position until you move the fuel lever to the run position, and the fuel control lever will now hold the switch engaged. Also the fuel lever is part of the rheostat base. The rheostat must be installed in such a way that it is possible to rotate not only the part of the handle that is supposed to rotate, but also the entire base of the rheostat. This base is what the fuel control moves to increase speed when it is in the running position. This is difficult to explain and therefore to better understand the concept you should watch the third part of the video.