Errors lie in wait at every turn

Good afternoon, dear subscribers of the technoblog. Today I want to tell you how to properly install a cooler on a processor. It would seem that there is no need to think about it: you take a turntable, attach it to the corresponding slots on the motherboard, plug in a 4-pin connector, start it up - you are happy. But the hell was floating there, errors lie in wait for unlucky users at every step and now I will explain why.

The most common mistakes when buying and installing:

• banal ignorance of the processor socket (775, 1151, 1155, am3, am4, etc.);
• ignorance of the chip heat pack;
• saving money for good cooling;
• buying a dubious cooler from hands without checking the package contents;
• forgot to substitute the reinforcing plate on the back of the MP;
• applying too thin (thick) layer of thermal paste;
• too high tower height (the side wall does not close);
• too wide heatsink covering the slots for RAM;
• curvature (no comment).

What does the cooling system consist of?

If we talk simple language and do not go into details of varying degrees of specificity, then a processor cooler, whether it is an artifact for Intel or AMD, always consists of 2 elements:

• radiator;
• fan.

But further more interesting. Radiators can be either classic (an aluminum bar with fins, sometimes with a copper contact to the processor), or tower (impressively shaped) aluminum construction, often pierced with copper heat pipes, as well as having direct contact of these very pipes with a processor or an intermediary plate made of copper).
There are also radiators designed for the NWO, but they are attached to a completely different place.

The classic ones are designed for office builds, since they are not much different from boxed coolers (which come in a box with a processor). They are capable of dissipating up to 95 W of heat and are not designed to overclock the chip, even if you really want to. EVEN if the board has a good power supply subsystem.

Tower already allow dissipating from 130 to 250 watts of heat, depending on the model. Take for example the bestseller of yesteryear - the Zalman CNPS10X Performa (or Optima) and its 150W of performance thanks to its proprietary shark fin turntable and good design radiator.

Not sure which turntable you need? Google the characteristics of your stone and find out its thermal package.

Box cooling system installation process

I delayed a little with the preface, but for many this fact should become useful material for thought. Now let's get down to the installation process itself and start with the box turntables.

If you have a system based on an Intel chip, starting with socket 775 and higher, then the matter is nowhere easier. Firstly, the stock fans that are in the box with the chip are already greased with thermal grease, so you don't need to apply it additionally. But if you really want to, you can look here and read about that.

Then everything is simple: install the carlson according to 4 holes and insert 4 into them plastic latches... Everything is ready - you are amazing.
Now let's talk about AMD and their latches, which, by the way, look much more reliable and behave like Soviet spies. Around the processor socket there is a square plastic insert with two "tongues" for which the heatsink of the box turntable clings.

You just need to throw the eyelet behind one eyelet, and then do the same with the second, in parallel fixing the carlson in a certain position with a special limiter. You cannot tear off such a structure with your teeth.

Installing a custom cooler

Now let's deal with a more complex case - the tower. I must say right away that a layer of thermal paste is also applied to such models, but often its quality leaves much to be desired, and therefore we wipe the factory one and apply a new layer on the crystal surface with a thin layer. How to do it right -.

But before you start, you need to do something that everyone forgets with the lion's share of probability - read the instructions! It is in the box, if that. Tower models in the overwhelming majority of cases are universal in terms of attachment. They have a list of suitable sockets written on the package, which I I advise you to read BEFORE buying, so that it is not like last time.

Now we separate the AMD plates from the parts for Intel and put the unnecessary ones back into the box. A fan is removed from the radiator, which only interferes with installation, after which you try on a place for installation and attach the back plate - a backplate, to which the cooler is attached with screws (not in all models, but still).

The main thing is to clearly get into the bolt holes so that there is no distortion. It is necessary to fasten the radiator strictly crosswise (first the first bolt, then the next diagonally, and so on all 4).
The whole process is carried out on the table, while the motherboard also lies on the table outside the case on a complete dielectric film, or a box that does not pass static current. Otherwise it will be very inconvenient.

You check the mounting system, use the brackets to fix the turntable, connect the latter to the socket on the CPU and check the performance of your work. It works - it's already good.

It is worth changing the paste at least once a year, although more details about this are already in.

If you need a huge selection of cooling carlsons, then "welcome" to this internet shop.)

I hope the above tips will help you do everything smartly and without incident. Subscribe to everything for now.

In order for your computer to work quickly and stably, it needs high-quality cooling. Therefore, from time to time it is necessary to check your fan, and you will probably see that it is dirty, dust clumps have gathered between the radiator fins, which are an obstacle to normal heat transfer. Gently touching the radiator with your hand, you will feel that it is hot, so experts advise installing a cooler, powerful and new.

What is a cooler for?

We'll look at how to install a cooler a little later, first you need to figure out what a cooler is. A cooler is a kind of fan for a processor that does not allow it to overheat. When it comes to gaming computer, then you need to buy a really good cooler, because video games are considered the most resource-intensive programs today, which means that it is when working with them that your processor will be maximally loaded. Whatever computer you have, you need to remember that one cooler will not be enough for you. Ideally your system unit should contain three coolers, one for the processor itself, the second in order to take cold air from the space around the computer, and the third, on the contrary, for "blowing out" hot air.

Installing a cooler on the processor

The most affordable and popular are models of coolers on aluminum and copper bases, as well as on a combined base and using heat pipes.

Before purchasing a cooler, be sure to make sure that it is compatible with the processor installed on your computer. Before installation, check that the side from which the cooler will be "pressed" to the motherboard has required amount thermal paste. Thermal paste should be applied in a thin, even layer. If it is not there, then you need to buy it. Typically, thermal grease is supplied with a cooler. If you do not know how to properly install the cooler, then read this article or contact the wizard.

Each cooler is equipped with 4 feet that need to be installed in small holes located near the corners of the motherboard. All actions must be performed extremely carefully and carefully.

After that, attach the cooler to the motherboard. You need to push down on each of the switches in turn, but remember that you should not push too hard, because this can lead to damage to the cooler. You will understand that the leg is firmly and reliably fixed by hearing a characteristic click. The same action must be performed with all the other legs, otherwise the cooler will simply "fly out" from the motherboard. All that remains is to supply power, for this it is enough to find the CPU_FAN connector, the wire to it is included in the cooler package. Now you know how to install a cooler on a processor, and you can easily do it.

Installing the cooler on the case

If the existing cooling system does not cope with the task at hand, you can improve its properties. To do this, you need to install additional coolers on the case. Before installing the cooler on the case, decide on the installation site: inspect the case, its top and side covers, front panel, end part. If required holes no, you can make them yourself. The best option is the installation equal number coolers for blowing and blowing.

First, you need to bring in fresh air from the outside, and then remove hot air out. The best way Installations: on the front and side panels, it is necessary to install fans for blowing, and in the top and rear parts, install a cooler for blowing. Such a scheme will provide an influx fresh air to all areas, and then effectively brings it out.

In order for the cooler to work efficiently and quietly, it is worth choosing units with a diameter of 120 mm. The directions of the air flows are determined by conventional arrows - one of them shows the direction of rotation of the blades, and the second shows the direction of the air flow.

When connecting the connectors, you need to use the least amount of effort, otherwise you need to think about whether the connector is correct. After installation, do a test run. Sometimes even a new cooler can rumble, the reason is in resonance with the case. To eliminate rattle, you can install a spacer between the fan and the computer.

CPU. The most important element of a computer is the central processor, where all the necessary calculations are made and where the commands for controlling the computer come from.

The first processors were soldered into the motherboard. In the future, with the aim of a possible quick replacement of processors, special sockets were developed into which the necessary processor could be quickly installed. Slot - a socket (Soket), into which processor chips are inserted, which are located on the entire surface of the connector, and a slot (Slot), in which the contacts are located along the perimeter or on the same line.

Before replacing the processor, you should first find out the type of socket (connector) located on the motherboard, which can be found out from the instructions for it, or from the information on the Internet provided by the manufacturers.

To install the processor, it is necessary to disconnect the computer from the external power supply, disconnect the wires connected to the computer and unscrew the fastening screws, remove protective cover case of the system unit. Then you need to remove static electricity from yourself by touching an unpainted part of the ground, for example, a central heating battery.

On modern motherboards, there are four holes around the CPU socket for mounting a fan on top of the processor, as shown in the figure below. Modern connectors have a cover that protects the contacts, as shown in the same figure (it has the inscription Remove).

The figure above shows the CPU socket. In order to insert the processor, you must first move the locking lever to a vertical position. On modern computers, the covers must then be removed. In this case, in no case touch the contacts both on the processor and on the connector, as grease from your hands can get on them and the contact will not work.

The figure above shows the insertion of the CPU into the socket and the figure below secures the CPU with the clamp.

The processor fits into the socket at the base of the beveled corners (modern and slotted). If the processor has a ceramic PGA case, then the cut corner of the case should be opposite the locking lever, and if the case is plastic, this angle is marked with a triangle. In addition, a pin may be missing on one corner (or two corners) of the processor, so there will be no hole on the connector in this place.

When the processor is properly seated in the socket, lower the lever and secure it. Place the processor in the socket so that it is parallel to the socket and no corner protrudes from the others. Do not overdo it when doing this. If there is a voltage stabilizer on the motherboard(VRM), connect wires to it (for old ones).

Cooler is called a device for cooling those blocks that are susceptible to overheating - first of all, the central processor. Typically, a heatsink and a fan are installed on the processor. It is necessary to select these two devices so that they provide sufficient heat dissipation, otherwise the CPU may burn out. There are several options for installing the cooler:

A radiator, on top of which a fan is already installed;

A radiator and a fan on top of it;

Fan only (very rarely, only a heatsink).

Before installing the heatsink, it is necessary to apply a special heat-conducting paste to the top of the CPU (some models are installed without a conductive paste, so first you need to clarify whether you need it for your model). In addition, some models of modern processors are installed without a heatsink, that is, the fan is installed on top of the processor. If the radiator is reinstalled, then the previous conductive paste is removed and a new one is smeared, without using the old one. This paste is sold in many computer stores and in a tube it is enough to install several processors. The paste should cover the entire surface of the CPU cover.

Different processors are inserted into the sockets in approximately the same way, we will give another example of how to insert a Pentium IV processor, since it is slightly different from others.

Together with motherboard a frame for installing the processor can be supplied (see figure below).

To do this, first remove the white clips from the clips (see illustration below, clips (gray) and clips (black)).

Then, use the latches to install the bezel onto the motherboard and insert the latches into the latches. Then slightly pull the bezel up and to the sides in order to make sure that the bezel is firmly on the board.

Install the heat sink onto the processor as shown in the illustration above. Then press lightly on the four edges of the heatsink to fit into the slots in the cover.

After installing the heatsink, plug the fan wire into the corresponding connector on the motherboard.

The fan is also easy to install separately, either using clips, the principles of which are shown earlier, or using 4 screws that are fixed in the holes on the motherboard.

Installing the processorPentium IV (423 contacts) the same as above, except for the installation of the clamps. The frame for installing the radiator can consist of two fastening mechanisms, which will have to wrap around the radiator. Install them on the motherboard around the CPU retention mechanism using the screws. The fastening mechanisms themselves (2 pieces), clips (2 pieces) and screws (4 pieces) must be attached to the motherboard kit. Installing the heatsink on the CPU is the same as described earlier. After installing the radiator, secure it using two clamps, for which place the clamp to the outer protrusion of the fastening mechanism and while pressing one end of the clamp, push on the other to snap it into place.

Do not forget to apply heat-conducting paste to the processor (if needed) before installation, and after installation, connect the fan cable to the corresponding connector on the motherboard.

Installing the processorAMD is similar to the installation of the Pentium IV processor (see above). However, there are some differences. First of all, we note that the heat radiator can be covered with a special conductive compound. To ensure that this composition is not damaged, the lower part of the radiator can be covered with either a lid or adhesive tape, which must be removed immediately before installing the radiator. Then it is not necessary to additionally cover with heat-conducting paste. You need to read about this in the instructions for the radiator, or ask the seller. When reinstalling the heatsink, you must clean the surface of the heatsink and the surface of the CPU, and apply conductive paste to the top of the CPU.

When installing the heatsink, do not press on it with your hand, as the processor microcircuit may crack. Make sure the heatsink is on the chip and not on the connector and aligned. In order to secure the radiator, you need to put the clip on the plastic tongue. To do this, first place the clip on one side of the heatsink, then fasten the clip on the other side. A screwdriver may be required to secure the second clamp. Be careful when doing this, as the screwdriver can slip off and damage the conductive lines on the motherboard.

The picture above shows to Replacing the radiator (side view).

Removing the central processor held in reverse order... To loosen the grip of the heatsink with the processor chip, try turning the heatsink.

When reinstalling the CPU, be sure to clean the bottom of the heatsink and the top of the CPU from the paste, and then apply a new conductive paste to the CPU.

To remove the heatsink of a Pentium IV processor (478 pins), place a screwdriver between the heatsink and the clip and slide the clip leg as shown in the figure below.

A few notes... The Pentium IV processor for an ATX motherboard requires an ATX12V power supply, which has an additional 12-volt four-pin connector for connection to the motherboard. Also, the motherboard chipset may require an additional 6-pin 3.3V and 5V power connector. If there are no such connectors in the power supply, then the power supply is of the ATX type. MicroATX motherboards require an ATX12V or SFX12V power supply.

Before installation, make sure that the motherboard supports this type of processor from the instructions for the motherboard or from the manufacturer's website. The motherboard BIOS may not recognize the latest versions of the CPU. In this case, it must be updated by visiting the website of the BIOS manufacturer or the motherboard manufacturer.

The CPU package may include a heatsink with a fan. If you have to buy a heatsink and a fan separately, then you need to take into account that these devices must dissipate enough heat, otherwise the processor may burn out. Therefore, check if they correspond to the type of processor.

The Pentium IV processor is sold with a sticker attached separately. This is done because the heatsink obscures the upper part of the processor microcircuit and therefore it is recommended to attach the sticker to the wall of the system unit.

To achieve more efficient operation of the Pentium IV processor, it is advisable to install drivers. Moreover, it is advisable to install these drivers immediately after installing Windows, so that the drivers of other subsystems are optimized to work with this processor. In addition, it is desirable to have a DirectX library of version 8 or higher, and Open GL version not lower than 1.2. Note that in the presence of old libraries and the absence of drivers, the processor will work, but not at its full capacity.

Pentium IV has built-in Hyper-Threading technology, which allows parallel execution of instructions in parallel processors at the same time, which speeds up the computer. In order to effectively take advantage of this technology, you need to either work in Windows XP (SP 1 or higher), or in older versions of operating systems (for example, Windows 98, Windows 2000) you need to update the BIOS drivers so that they support the technology. Hyper -Threading. After updating the driver, you need to enable (Enable) the corresponding switch (Hyper-Threading Technology) in the BIOS. If the computer is running Hyper-Threading technology, in the window Start → Control Panel → System → Hardware → Device Manager → Processors (2) under the name Processor, two entries will appear about the presence of two central processors.

Do not turn on the computer when the fan is not connected or the heat sink is not secured with latches, as this may damage the central processor.

How to properly organize cooling in a gaming computer

The use of even the most efficient coolers may turn out to be useless if the air ventilation system is poorly thought out in the computer case. Hence, correct installation fans and accessories is mandatory requirement when assembling the system unit. Let's explore this question using the example of one productive gaming PC.

⇣ Contents

This article is a continuation of a series of introductory materials on assembling system units. If you remember, last year came out step-by-step instruction"", Which describes in detail all the main points for creating and testing a PC. However, as is often the case, when assembling the system unit important role nuances play. In particular, properly installing the fans in the chassis will increase the efficiency of all cooling systems, as well as reduce the heating of the main components of the computer. It is this question that is discussed in the article below.

I warn you right away that the experiment was carried out on the basis of one typical assembly using an ATX motherboard and a Midi-Tower case. The option presented in the article is considered the most common, although we all know perfectly well that computers are different, and therefore systems with the same level of performance can be assembled in dozens (if not hundreds) different ways... That is why the above results are relevant exclusively for the considered configuration. Judge for yourself: computer cases, even within the same form factor, have different volume and number of seats for installing fans, and video cards, even using the same GPU, are assembled on printed circuit boards of different lengths and equipped with coolers with a different number of heat pipes and fans. Nevertheless, our small experiment will allow us to draw certain conclusions.

An important "detail" of the system unit is the central processor Core i7-8700K. Detailed overview this six-core is located, so I will not repeat myself once again. Let me just note that cooling the flagship for the LGA1151-v2 platform is not an easy task even for the most efficient coolers and liquid cooling systems.

The system was installed 16 GB random access memory DDR4-2666 standard. Operating system Windows 10 was written to Western Digital WDS100T1B0A solid state drive. You can get acquainted with the review of this SSD.

MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X TRIO

The MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X TRIO graphics card, as the name suggests, features a TRI-FROZR cooler with three TORX 2.0 fans. According to the manufacturer, these impellers create 22% more airflow while remaining virtually silent. Low volume, as stated on the official MSI website, is ensured, among other things, through the use of double-row bearings. Note that the radiator of the cooling system, and its ribs are made in the form of waves. According to the manufacturer, this design increases the total dissipation area by 10%. The radiator also comes into contact with the elements of the power subsystem. MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X TRIO memory chips are additionally cooled with a special plate.

The accelerator fans start rotating only when the chip temperature reaches 60 degrees Celsius. On an open stand, the maximum GPU temperature was only 67 degrees Celsius. At the same time, the fans of the cooling system spun up by a maximum of 47% - this is about 1250 rpm. The real GPU frequency in the default mode was stable at 1962 MHz. As you can see, the MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X TRIO has a decent factory overclock.

The adapter is equipped with a massive backplate that increases the rigidity of the structure. The back side of the video card has an L-shaped strip with a built-in LED backlight Mystic Light. The user, using the application of the same name, can separately configure three zones of the glow. In addition, the fans are framed by two rows of symmetrical dragon claw lights.

According to technical specifications MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X TRIO has three operating modes: Silent Mode - 1480 (1582) MHz for the core and 11016 MHz for memory; Gaming Mode - 1544 (1657) for the core and 11016 MHz for memory; OC Mode - 1569 (1683) MHz core and 11124 MHz memory. By default, the video card has game mode enabled.

You can familiarize yourself with the performance level of the reference GeForce GTX 1080 Ti. Also, MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Lightning Z was released on our website. This graphics adapter is also equipped with a TRI-FROZR cooling system.

The assembly is based on the MSI Z370 GAMING M5 ATX form factor motherboard. This is a slightly modified version of the MSI Z270 GAMING M5 board, which was released on our website last spring. The device is perfect for overclocked Coffee Lake K-processors, as the digital power converter Digitall Power consists of five dual phases, implemented in a 4 + 1 scheme. Four channels are directly responsible for the operation of the CPU, another one for the integrated graphics.

All components of the power circuits comply with the Military Class 6 standard - this applies to both titanium core chokes and Dark CAP capacitors with at least ten years of service life, as well as energy efficient Dark Choke coils. And also DIMM slots for installing RAM and PEG ports for installing video cards are clad in a metallized Steel Armor case, and also have additional soldering points on back side boards. For the RAM, additional isolation of the tracks is applied, and each memory channel is wired in its own layer of PCB, which, according to the manufacturer, allows achieving a "cleaner" signal and increasing the stability of the overclocking of DDR4 modules.

Of the useful things, I note the presence of two M.2 connectors at once, which support the installation of PCI Express and SATA 6 Gb / s drives. The top port can accommodate SSDs up to 110mm in length, and the bottom port up to 80mm. The second port is additionally equipped with a metal heatsink M.2 Shield, which is in contact with the drive using a thermal pad.

The Killer E2500 gigabit controller is responsible for the wired connection in the MSI Z370 GAMING M5, and the Realtek 1220 chip is responsible for the sound. The Audio Boost 4 sound path received Chemi-Con capacitors, a dual headphone amplifier with an impedance of up to 600 ohms, a front dedicated audio output and gold-plated audio connectors. All components of the sound zone are isolated from the rest of the board with a non-conductive backlit strip.

Mystic Light motherboard backlight supports 16.8 million colors and works in 17 modes. An RGB strip can be connected to the motherboard, the corresponding 4-pin connector is soldered at the bottom of the board. By the way, the device comes with an 800 mm extension cord with a splitter for connecting an additional LED strip.

The board is equipped with six 4-pin connectors for connecting fans. The total number is selected optimally, the location is also. The PUMP_FAN port, soldered next to the DIMM, supports the connection of impellers or a pump with a current of up to 2 A. The location is again very good, since it is easy to connect a pump to this connector from both an unattended LSS and a custom system assembled by hand. The system cleverly manages including "Carlsons" with a 3-pin connector. The frequency is regulated both by the number of revolutions per minute and by the voltage. It is possible to completely stop the fans.

Finally, I would like to note two more very useful features of the MSI Z370 GAMING M5. The first is the presence of the POST indicator. The second is the EZ Debug LED block located next to the PUMP_FAN connector. It clearly demonstrates at what stage the system is booted: at the stage of initializing the processor, RAM, video card or drive.

The choice for Thermaltake Core X31 was not accidental. Here is a tower case that fits all modern trends... The power supply is installed from below and is isolated with a metal shutter. There is a basket for installing three drives of 2.5 '' and 3.5 '' form factors, but HDD and SSD can be mounted on the barrier wall. There is a basket for two 5.25 "devices. Without them, nine 120mm or 140mm fans can be installed in the case. As you can see, Thermaltake Core X31 allows you to fully customize your system. For example, on the basis of this case, it is quite possible to assemble a PC with two 360-mm LSS radiators.

The device turned out to be very spacious. There is plenty of room behind the chassis for cable routing. Even with careless assembly, the side cover will close easily. The space for the hardware allows you to use processor coolers up to 180 mm in height, video cards up to 420 mm in length, and power supplies up to 220 mm in length.

The bottom and front panel are equipped with dust filters. The top cover is equipped with a mesh mat, which also keeps dust out and makes it easier to install case fans and water cooling systems.

The most important details systems are usually the hottest. Therefore, so that the operation of the entire system is not compromised, it is necessary to take care of cooling. This article will discuss how to install a cooler on a processor.

Cooling options

The processor is one of the most hot parts of the system unit, and if it is not cooled, it will burn out in a matter of minutes. The cooler for the system unit is placed directly on it. Cooling varies depending on how powerful the processor is installed in the system.

There are two types of cooling - active and passive.

Passive cooling consists in the fact that it is presented in the form of a simple heatsink that removes heat from the processor. This type of cooling does not require a lot of energy and is cheap, and also does not make as much noise as the fans.

Active cooling means a fan near the radiator. Sometimes in such coolers there is a marking of the direction of air flow, which makes it possible to determine in which direction to put the cooler on the processor.

Cooling system composition

The cooling system consists of two components - a fan and a radiator. Copper or aluminum tubes conduct heat away from the processor towards the heatsinks, while the heatsinks are cooled by a fan or fans. Of course, there is noise from them, but within the limits of the permissible.

First, you need to make sure that the processor is securely attached to the socket. This is followed by cleaning the processor and heatsink at the point of contact, so that the contact between them is not broken by anything. For these purposes, a disposable alcohol wipe is ideal, as it does not contain lint and ensures complete cleanliness after itself.

The next step in how to put a cooler on an AMD processor is to apply thermal paste. This procedure is necessary because the thermal grease ensures full contact of the processor with the heatsink, which significantly improves heat dissipation. It is not necessary to apply the paste thickly, it is enough to smear it to such an extent that you can see the outline of the marking on the processor.

The manufacturers who make cooling for AMD processors try to adhere to one standard, which uses a simple latch to secure the cooler to the processor. After the cooler has been fixed, you need to connect its power to the motherboard.

Cooling options should be considered first before putting a cooler on an Intel processor. The cooler is mounted only on the motherboard, which is in a horizontal position. Also, do not forget about the reinforcing plate, which is included in the kit.

Some processors come with a boxed cooler. This type of cooler does not require any special installation knowledge. You need to find the holes on the motherboard, choose a suitable position and insert the pins into the connectors. After installation, a characteristic locking sound should appear in each pin. The last step is to connect the cooler to the motherboard.

In modern advanced systems, there are no less advanced processors. Such processors require a high-quality cooling system, and then there will be instructions on how to install a cooler on the processor. This time the installation option is presented

First, you should unpack and assemble the cooler according to the manual. Sometimes the cooling system is sold already assembled, then this step is omitted.

Apply a small amount of thermal paste to the installed processor. It is not necessary to smear it, as the paste will be evenly distributed when the cooler is installed.

To secure the base to the motherboard, it is best to look at the manual, as different models can be attached in different ways.

As with many cooler models, the fans should have an image indicating the direction of the blades. These markers will help you decide in which direction to place the cooler on the processor so that the air flow is directed to back wall housing.

After the options for how to properly install the cooler on the processor were presented different manufacturers, you can figure out how to remove it.

The first step is to turn off the power to the cooler, and then unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver. If the fan is secured with latches, then you can simply pull out the fan by moving the fastening part aside.

If the cooler is difficult to dismantle, this means that the thermal paste inside has dried. To get rid of this, you need to warm up a little problem place... In this case, a regular hair dryer does a good job.

Before figuring out that, you need to choose it. Many users who are inexperienced in the field of computer parts make many mistakes, which will be presented below.

The first thing to find out before buying new system cooling is the socket that the processor supports. The fact is that the heatsink must fit snugly and precisely to the processor, otherwise the cooling will not be as effective.

It is not worth saving when it comes to cooling, since the life of not only the processor, but also the entire system depends on this.

Nobody canceled commission shops and "hand-held" purchases, so before purchasing a used cooler, you should test it on the spot and check the package contents.

When installing a tower cooler, do not forget about the reinforcing plate, which is attached to the back of the motherboard. It is needed for stable operation of the cooler.

As mentioned earlier, thermal paste is a good thing, but you should not overdo it with it, as this will negatively affect the processor's performance. But a deficiency can also lead to overheating.

Before buying, you should also inspect the CPU cooler power connector. They are designed for three and four contacts. Coolers with 3 contacts constantly operate at maximum fan speed. Coolers with 4 contacts do not have such a problem, since the additional contact makes it possible to regulate the fan speed.