Decorative shrubs and their pruning. How to update plants

1. Why decorative plants need trimming.
2 . Types of trimming trees and shrubs.
3. Trimming times.
4. Trimming the main shrubs.

• Barberry.
  
• Lilac.
  
• Hydrangea.
  

5. Pruning decorative trees.

1. Why decorative plants need trimming

Pruning decorative trees and shrubs is very important: one plants it makes it possible to get more large flowers, another - a chance to increase the duration of flowering or even blooming again. Also, with the help of trimming, beautiful crowns of trees and shrubs are formed and support their form in the future. In addition, it is necessary to prevent excessive expansion, as well as to maintain plants in a healthy state.

Pruning is needed to all trees and shrubs

2. Types of trimming

Forming trimming Used to form crowns, deterrence plant growth, flowering stimulation.

Most often, crowns of decorative plants give outwardly rounded outlines, without going into the formation of the skeleton. Such trimming is more correct to call a haircut. From the crowns of plants, you can cut geometric shapes, give them the outline of various items or animals. For crowns of complex form, special frames are usually used, repeating the specified silhouette. Frames are left in Crown for several years while there is a formation, and sometimes on the whole life of the plant. Trees and shrubs with similar crowns are called to topiars.

The formation of a well-pronounced skeleton for decorative trees is rarely used - mainly to remove the choler, palmet or cordons.

The formation of shrubs often includes shortening of increments (removal of part of the branch) and thinning (removal of the extra branches completely).

Sanitary trim - both on ornamental trees and shrubs - is used to remove patients and damaged branches.

Rejuvenating trimming We need aging plants that have lost decorativeness due to age-related changes. The purpose of this procedure is to achieve intensive growth of young shoots, of which a new crown will be formed in the future. Shrubs for rejuvenation are cut off "on the stump", that is, they leave heights with a height of 5-15 cm depending on the type of plant. The trees strongly cut off all branches, and in some cases the trunks themselves are lying.

3. Trimming times

In order not to lose part of the blooming branches during the pruning of beautiful shrubs, it is important to take into account their flowering time. Cultures that bloom in the spring or early summer are cut immediately after the end of flowering, and blooming in the second half of summer and in the fall - early in the spring, to the dissolution of the kidneys. The rejuvenating trimming is best carried out in the early level period. And sanitary - at any time, when it has arisen.

Topiars are cut and in spring, and in the summer - so that they maintain their shape as shoots are growing

4. Trimming the main shrubs

The pruning of the Spirit is reduced to the giving shrubs of a neat shape, removing fine dry twigs and fruits. Spring-listening spirits (s. Argut, s. Gray, s. Alpine, s. Wangutta, s. Hunterobeliste, s. Nipponskaya, s. The average, p. Tunberg and others) are cut after flowering. Summer-melting (p. Berezolistic, s. Paper, s. Douglas, s. Ivolovaya, s. Japanese and others) - in early spring. Bushes age for more than 3 years it is necessary to remove old trunks. Once a few years spend a rejuvenating trimming "on the stump".

In the next video you will be able to see the process of spring trimming of the summertime spirits on the example with. Japanese Anthoni Waterer, Little Princess, Magic Carpet, Macrophylla.

Barberry

Barberrys are well holding a form, but quite quickly accumulate many dry branches, so every spring the bushes need to be cleaned. Depending on what is more important (crown or flowering shape) Strigut barberries in spring or summer, and not rarely even several times per season. For old spill-up bushes use a rejuvenating trimming. Tall types of barbaris look beautifully in the formation of a raised crown on several trunks. To do this, cut down the lower branches, as well as all thin and chaotic growing trunks. Leave only 3-7 most well-positioned trunks.

Young bushes of the Chubuschik usually do not require the formation, if you still want to trim them, it is better to do after flowering. The plant needs to remove bare dry tips of the branches, which spoil the decorativeness of the shrub. Cropped up to live wood in summer or autumn, as it is not particularly noticeable that they are dry.

With the age of the plant, old branches appear, often deviating to the Earth. Early in the early spring to wake up the kidneys (optimal time) or in the fall, cutting out at the base or over a strong branch. Such a trim will make it possible to grow new shoots. Old launched chubushnik bushes require radical rejuvenating trimming spring.

Lilac

Lilac can be formed by a bush or in the form of a single-barre or a multi-rolled tree. So krona looked attractive round year, It is necessary to choose somewhat uniformly located stems and use them as a basis for the formation of a skeleton. Other remove. In the future, each year maintain the crown shape, cutting out unnecessary shoots. Lilac should not be highly thickened (it adversely affects flowering), so all small, weak and unsuccessfully growing branches regularly remove. This shrub is extremely durable, so it will not be needed to rejuvenate.

In the formation of strambed forms and growing grafted sirens, it is important to cut the pigs in a timely manner, it will also help to restrain the growth of the bush sirens. Stroke shoots need to be cut in the spring.

After flowering, dry blooms are cut off so that the plants do not waste their forces on the formation of seeds. It is necessary to do it carefully, cutting off the inflorescence of the first leaves, located oppositely. If you wish, at this time, you can adjust the forms of the crown, cutting a little excessive protruding branches.

Lilac do not forget to trim dry flowers

Hydrangea

Hydrangea Miscellaneous and the city is cut off in spring, prior to the deployment of the leaves. So that blooming is abundant, and inflorescences as large as possible, the bush should consist of a small number of strong solid branches. They need to be strongly shortened, leaving only 3-5 kidneys. All weak gains cut out.

Also in our gardens there is a large-scale, the truth is much less likely. It differs from her sisters, what blooms on last year's shoots. Hence the feature in trimming: branches need to cut after flowering. And do not cut completely, but only shortening to cause the formation of new shoots. In the spring, the G. largest is carried out only sanitary trimming - and then with extreme necessity.

To see with your own eyes, as you need to trim the hortensia, you can, you can in the next video.

5. Trimming decorative trees

Crimping ornamental trees is necessary for the formation of the crown, removing the stammer of the desired height and further maintain the specified form. But even if the trees grow loose, every year it is worth performing sanitary trimming, removing crossed and directed the branches, as well as slightly cut forward the crown so that it is well blown away. Remember: the thicance contributes to the development of diseases and pests.

The trees with decorative leaves sometimes appear shoots that do not correspond to this variety (chimerity). They should be cut immediately from the very reason to stop the spread of this phenomenon.

Also, trees are often cut to consolidate growth, so that they are comfortable to care for them.

Crop the trees should be too spring when the risk of returning frosts. All work on trimming is desirable to complete before the start of the renal dissipation.

Owners of sites, especially beginners, usually pay a lot of attention of nutrition and the composition of the soil, feeding and watering. And about the trimming of shrubs is often, alas, forget. Some even believe that it is not needed at all. However, over time, when the bushes are gaining strength and build up a lot of additional branches, it comes to understand that the cropping is simply necessary.

Often there is not enough knowledge on the features of the trimming of decorative shrubs. How to cut when and how much? Plants have a huge amount, and they are all so different ... at some point it may seem that it is never to mask this wisdom. Do not worry, our release will help both novice gardeners and experienced household owners to take a fresh look at the need to form crowns, learn the technique of trimming and learn about its subtleties for various types of plants.

Do you need to cut shrubs?

The answer is unambiguous: not only need, even necessary. Pruning strongly affects all the life processes of shrub. However, the main principle in this matter is not harmful. And starting work, you should clearly imagine what you will be cut and for what. First of all, this procedure will help to improve plants - such a trimming is called sanitary. Cutting and to regulate growth, as well as for the formation of fruits.

And there are a lot of receptions to achieve desired result. Interference in crown growth is simply necessary to rejuvenate shrubs. No matter how supported the bush in good condition, all plants are aging, their beauty and shape are lost, development slows down.

And if you do everything right, it will help to return the former appearance to the beloved variety of Lilac, the Chubuschik, Spirey ... It is also important and aesthetic side in this matter. Crane haircut will allow the plant necessary size And the crown shape, sometimes completely distant from natural. Such trimming is called treary art. And the most simple techniques can master each gardener. To such trimming, it is often necessary to start the plant in the garden from the first days of life to "teach" it to a constant haircut, and not shock, because it can destroy the bush. In the future, the form is maintained so that the plant keeps "hairstyle". Otherwise, it will strive to return a natural look. However, after intervention, this plant will not be fully determined.

Trimming: Terms

Cutting, or thinning.

This is a complete removal of a branch or escape. The shrubs branches are removed as close as possible to the surface of the soil or even below its level. Small branches are cut off by a secateur, large - cut down.

Trimming "For Translation".

This technique is used on long-term wood. On the shoot, the right branching is chosen - younger and directed in the right direction. Make cut without hemp.

Condition, or shorting.

In trimming, reduce the length of the branch or escape. It is needed to stimulate branching. The stronger shorting, the more new shoots are formed. Annual increase is cut into the kidney pointing in the desired side.

How to trim and form a crown - some subtleties

Pruning any shrub helps to emphasize the merits, individuality, make it more expressive and tidy. Remember the highlights.

Shoots from which the bush will consist of young Plant Appear from the kidneys located on the roast part of the stem. Therefore, when planting a seedling (no matter - one-, two- or three years), the root neck should be shuffled at about 5-8 cm.

Most shrubs have a strong increase. The height of adult plants is more than 2 m (Kalina), and sometimes - and 5 m (IRGA). And so that they started to close, when landing their shoots are shortened. The longest and well-developed branches are suitably equalized with the rest. Broken cut to the first normal kidney, and patients and weak cut completely.

If you see that by the end of the season, the escape does not rush, it is better to cut it in the fall to the ridden part of the wood. Otherwise, in winter, he will most likely froznet. If you doubt, you can escape to leave the winter and already in the spring, cut the part on which the kidneys did not dismiss (the deceased top).

Saplings of low shrubs (the height of adult copies - up to 1.5 m) immediately after planting it is cut off so that only hemps with two-three kidneys remain from each escape. In the spring, the sprouted of these severe shoots will develop well and help the plant to increase the root system faster. If you do not cut, only small inland and the thickness of the escape will grow out of each woken kidney, since the root seedling system is not yet well developed.

Act about the situation is also important

Trim shrubs are needed annually. If you do this from the case of the case, unsystematic, the crown will be very thickened. In such a way, pests like to settle, and the diseases will easily hit shrubs.

If the bush is already running, and I do not want to throw it away, you can try to improve it. Of course, in such a situation you will have to remove a lot of shoots.

It is important to do it not in one year - say the plant and stretch the work for two, and better for three seasons. And you should not wait for excellent results at once, and such a trimming never completely compensates for the shortcomings of care.

In the practice of many gardeners there is a common mistake - wait until the plant becomes an adult. And only then begin to think about the need for its trimming. But, missing the time, to form a beautiful crown becomes very difficult - the change in the form takes years, and sometimes it is already impossible to do it.

Important!

The distance between the kidneys on the branches and the cut is very important. If you cut too close, the kidneys can dwell and dry out. If, on the contrary, far from the kidney, it will turn out to be a foam, which is dangerous for the plant. The optimal is the distance of 0.5 cm.

Types of trimming shrubs

Early forming trimming

Basic rules when working

1. During trimming, it is important to comply with some rules.
2. Do not leave the split hemps and sections.
3. Remove dry, patients and broken shoots.
4. When shuffling escapes, make a cut at an angle over the kidney or side branch, not leaving hemp.
5. Remember: it is better to make a timely shooting than then crop it.
6. To stimulate the growth of weak plants, they can be trimmed shorter, but it is no need to crush well and healthy branches.
7. It is important to always use only a high-quality cutting tool, necessarily sharp and clean.
8. Try when trimming as little as possible to injure the plant. For example, branches thinner 2 cm in diameter it is better to cut off with a sharp secateur, and thicker cut with hacksaw.
9. Use the secateur so that he does not touch other shoots.
10. If you need to cut horizontal thick branches, the first propyl makes the bottom of about a quarter of the diameter of the covered escape. From the main branch, retreat 1 -2 cm. The second propyl make the first to meet the first. You need to cut until the twig will not break the fiber. Only with this method trimming the falling branch will not die part of the remaining hemp. After that, it should be neatly cutting the pasteen.
11. In the right cut (sleepers) smooth surface and smooth edges, on which the crust scraps should not stick. It is possible to make a cut in such a way that water is not delayed. Square to clean the garden knife.
12. After trimming and stripping irregularities, the cuts need to be smeared with garden ward.
13. If the cutting surface is more than 3 cm in diameter, it is better to use oil paint (construction) - it will protect more reliable.

Form from "childhood"

Such trimming is needed for the formation of a beautiful and well-developed crown with a large number of healthy shoots. More often it is done in nurseries in the first two or three years of the life of a seedling. You will have to do it if they grow up planting material Orn and bought annual seedlings.

When buying, you need to choose healthy plants with well developed and better closed root system.

If you want to plant a few identical shrubs and form them in a similar way (for example, to create a boss, bleeding), take the seedlings of one height. It is important that root cakes they have about the same in thickness and without signs of disease.

In the first year, shrubs lined with a permanent place are allowed to develop freely without interfering with the growth of their shoots.

How to make the formative trimming

Early forming trimming is carried out in March or April. It is important to have time to do it before starting active in plants.

Cropped bushes usually at a height of 6-9 cm from the root neck (the so-called trimming "on the stump"). And by the fall, due to the awakening of sleeping kidneys located on the left hemp, new shoots will develop. In the early spring of next year they also need to cut, leaving so much kidneys so that the autumn could grow to a dozen new branches. Usually, each shoot is left from two to five "eyes" (depends on the number of growths formed after planting the bush on the stump). Standard view of shrubs, as a rule, are acquired by the fall of the third year.

Some exceptions

• Kisser, Karagan and Lilac, it is possible to trim only times, at the same time are formed from four to seven skeletal branches.
• The shoots of Henomelles, Arony, Phackle and Magonia for the second year should not be too shortcut, as they are able to form a crown on their own.
• Kalina Gordovina, Maple Tatar, Hydrangea Miscelred - on the contrary, and on the third year you need to plant on the stump, as they are badly touched.

Formation of bushes with a free-growing crown

In well-branching decorative and diverse shrubs, all shoots that have completed growth (at the top of the kidney formed), in early spring should be shortened by a quarter of length, aligning it with the cutting of the crown (if it is thickened). It should also be remembered that shoots should be placed in the crown as evenly as possible.

In decorative and diverse shrubs with weak brute, it is necessary to severely cropping the whole annual increase, leaving about four kidneys at this.

On the shoots of plants with short interstices (Irga, Chubuschnik, Spirea, honeysuckle) the number of kidney left to zoom to 8-10.

Formation of the crown in the form of a bowl, trapezoids, pyramids

Annual growths in the spring is cut strong, leaving the base with a height of 4-5 cm. In this case, the circuit must be as close as possible to the planned outlines.

After such trimming in the first year, plants give to form new growths. In the next three or four seasons, shrubs subject to early formation are cut through the existing template twice per year. The first time - in the spring, before the dissolution of the kidneys, and then - as shoots are growing. When the length is obtained, 8-10 cm is cut half.

There are plants that make a certain form easier. For example, the hawthorn is one-stop well to form in the form of a cone. But from the Kizilnik's crown shiny and twisted more convenient to cut out the outlines of the ball, cylinder or cube.

Important!

Remember, evergreen, as well as coniferous shrubs are not worth cutting up to four years of age. Then they are usually cut twice a year - before the start of flowering (approximately in mid-June) and before the end of the growth of shoots (in the first decade of August).

Forming trimming

What is the forming trimming

After the initial trimming make the formative, with which the usual bush turns into decorative.

For this, several more, more often than the existing branches, are added to the number of existing branches, but you can leave three strongest escapes. A little more attention will be paid to shrubs forming a lot of root row. Such can be attributed to the Rubbinnik of a rippallistic, snowy year white, dend off, Irga Olgoliste. It is necessary to ensure that the bushes are not too smasted into the width, and to remove most of the root row around the perimeter. While the plant is young and distinguished by strong growth, it is important to prevent over-thickening crown.

However, too much to cut shoots either do not need, otherwise it can lead to the formation of a very loose bush. The weak branches coming from the roots are removed primarily. Cut and strong, if they grow very close to other or directed deep into the bush. You only need to leave those shoots that can continue to replace any old or sick branch.

In weak-resistant plants, for example, some types of Weigel, Rhododendron, dry shoots may appear over time. They must be removed, without tightening, and do not cut over the first healthy kidney, but above the second - so more reliable. Periodically remove the running branches - they spoil general form. Only in some cases, for example, when the upper shoots were frozen, and the steleering were not injured (which often happens at the henome forests), they can be left, lift and fasten the rope on the support or make a small frame under the bush. When shoots get used to grow in this position, the supports can be removed. This technique will return the shrub decorative appearance.

First group trimming

This group includes plants that do not form powerful replacing shoots from the base or the bottom of the crown. The annual gains appear on the perimeter of the crown. Cutting such shrubs in early spring.

These include:

❖ Kalina (Viburnum),

❖ Lilac (Syringa),

❖ Buzin (Sambucus),

❖ Barberis (Berberis),

❖ Kisser (Cotoneaster),

❖ Potentilla Fruticosa,

❖ Irga (Amelanchier), -

❖ Skumpius (Cotinus),

❖ Magnolia (Magnolia),

❖ leaf falling beackers (EUONYMUS),

❖ Magic year (Daphne),

❖ Leschina (Corylus),

❖ Silver Loch (Elaeag-Nus Commutata),

❖ Hawthorn (Crataegus).

These plants, as a rule, need minimal trimming. In the early years after landing, you need to form a skeleton consisting of the strongest shoots. For this early spring, when shrubs are in a state of forced peace, remove all intersecting, incorrectly located, as well as weak shoots that will spoil the decorative look and thicken the crown.

Pruning adult bushes of this group can be limited to removing safe, patients and damaged shoots. If there is an urgent need, you can cut or shorten live shoots.

It is usually necessary to maintain the overall symmetry of the crown or the decorative view of the bush. However, most gardeners believe that the need to pruning even this group of plants is always. They do not give replacement shoots, but over time, overly thickening the crown, in addition, its form is lost.

Second group trimming

Plants are cut into the summer immediately after flowering. Shrubs of this group form replacing shoots. Flower on last year's increase.

These include: Hydrangea Macrophyll (Hydrangea Macrophylla), Weigela (Weigela), except the view with Varry Leaves, Kerria (Kerria), Tamarix (Tamarix), Stephanandra (Kolkwitzia), Chubuschik (Philadelphus), Forzition (Forsyth Ia), Japanese Quince (Chae-Noomeles Japonica), Three-bladed almonds (Prunus Triloba), Spiraea Warving, Tunberg, Ostrody, Nipponskaya, Golden, ash, Dolisnaya.

Shrubs of this group bloom, as a rule, in spring or at the very beginning of summer.

They shorten the shoots on which there were flowers. You can cut%, leaving only the most highly developing increase. At the same time, weak and thin twigs are also removed. Regularly and to the base, it is necessary to cut and about a third of old shoots - they are usually unproductive.

On a note:

Old shoots on the color is darker than others. In addition, they are usually thicker.

Third group trimming

Crop the plants in early spring. Shrubs of this group are blooming on shoots of this year.

These include: Summer-winding spirits (paper, Japanese, Douglas, Irovel, White Color, Biyara), Budduda David, Miscellaneous and tree hydrangea.

Adult shrubs of this group are quite cut into early in the early spring. They begin to increase strong shoots, in which there will already have a large number of flowers, or abundant flowering will come closer to autumn.

If such a trimming does not do, the plants will begin to thicken and partially lose decorativeness, and many will look neglected. A denial procedure may suffer the quality of the flowering of adult bushes.

When pruning usually try to delete all last year's shoots to the most well developed kidneys located above the old part of the stem (at a height of about 5-7 cm from the ground). After a couple of years, the main weed branches can be very thickened. And if it happened, you need to swallow them to maintain the decorativeness of the bush.

Fourth group trimming

Crop the plants in early spring and after flowering. This group includes evergreen shrubs that need little pruning.

For example: Rhododendrons, Magonia, Samshat.

After winter, they have dried and broken shoots. It happens, after unsuccessful wintering, the shoots of Magonia are taken off - do not hurry to cut them down (especially since they will soon bloom), wait for the kidney. In the summer, the bloody flowers and inflorescences are removed in Rhododendron, and you are cut off, only if the shapes or borders are forming of them.

I need a haircut in the fall

Shrubs forming floral kidneys on the growth of this year, bloom from mid-summer to autumn. It is possible to cut them in the fall, while removing the entire top of last year's gains at a distance of 10-40 cm from the ground. After the bushes grow strong young shoots, which will bloom. Such trimming can be done annually, and it is possible from time to time, as the crown is thickened, the mines of shoots and losses of decorative plant. If faded inflorescences look ugly, after flowering it is better to cut.

It is important to remember that strongly circumcised plants should receive enough food and moisture so that they can painlessly restore their overhead part. It is useful to mulch the soil around them with a compost. So you can cut the summersteer spirires, Hydrangea Sarzhen, Buddha David, Lestessa Dva Color, Rubannik is a rippallist, etc.

Support form

It is very important to keep the shrub crown parameters defined earlier, a typical form, typical of this species, or created artificially, as well as maintain the reference of all sections of the crown.

Due to the local action of trimming, they are trying to do either on the side branch, the growth of which must be strengthened, or on the kidney, if in this place you need to get an increase.

Such trimming is needed annually: both in spring and autumn. To maintain the form, we usually cut the plants that have already formed earlier, because the bush grows and loses decorativeness.

Usually, it is possible to remove parts of the growth (cutting off part of the escape) of the previous year (spring trimming) or the current (when cropping in the fall). It is easy to distinguish: the growth of last year is usually brighter than a long-term escape.

Fast-growing shrubs often require both spring and autumn trimming. For example, a raquin (and other representatives of the jock) is quite growing in width, as a result of which the bush literally falls apart, exposing the basis. And if several years do not carry out the supporting trimming, young shoots will grow, dropping from the old, who have managed to cut the branches for this time. This sharply reduce the decorativeness of the shrub. With such a trim, do not leave the old coarse wood, try to cut dead branches as low as possible. It is more correct to cut so that the continuation of the old escape was a younger increase. Procurement of the shoots of the current year will also stimulate the formation of new growths.

If you need to remove the branch, cut it close to the foundation of the current year's growth (next to the new escape).

Rejuvenating trimming

Strong blossoming trimming!

So that blooming is more abundant, and on shrubs that are not only decorative, but also useful (Irga, Kalina, Barbaris, Aria), ripen more fruits, trimming stimulates the growth of new branches at pretty old copies.

More often use this type of trimming in the event that the growth in the plant becomes too small and does not exceed 7 cm.

Such a trim is in shortening the branches, which activates the growth of sleeping or apparent kidney. We usually hold it from February to April and from August to September.

It is important to know about the small distinguishing features of shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year (Spiray Japanese, Hydrangea Tree and Miscellaneous) and the Past (Hydrangea Large, Lilac, Forzing, Louiseania Three-blade, Spring Spereray, Kalina, Hawthorn, honest hurt).

There are plants that spring bloom on the shoots last year, and in the summer on the shoots of the current: for example, Wayegela, Kerry. Old bushes of this type of trimming will stimulate the growing of a fairly large number of side twigs, which will make and flowering next season more lush.

Soothes need to shorten on 1/3 of the top, cutting into well-developed kidneys (above them) immediately after the end of flowering. In addition, branches that annually increase a lot of lateral growth, will bloom abundant and give more fruits if cut one of the three oldest in the bush. Do it in spring for about once every two years. This technique also allows you to avoid excessive buildup of plants.

Some features of rejuvenating trimming

Cutting can be adjusted and the size of the flowers - strong leads to their small quantity, but they will be large. A lot of small flowers will appear after weak trimming. Some shrubs, such as the Chubuschik or Detament, with annual trimming significantly lose the decorative of the crown. Therefore, shortening them is better not all shoots, but selectively.

Cropped to about three to four kidneys, of which the strong young young replacement shoots for flowering in the next year are formed. The remaining branches are left intact. Only when the flowering messenger becomes noticeable (it usually happens in a few years), you need to trim all shoots on the bush.

Plants can be rejected

Shrubs with time are aging. However, different species occurs at different speeds. For example, in the spirea of \u200b\u200bthe solar, lilac colored, the rowannik of the abnormal, richness of Dauri and wrinkled stems live for six years. The durability of bubble shoots is measured by seven-eight years. The laptic shrubs and spirits of the middle and the Golden stems have a different life expectancy that fluctuates from six to fourteen years.

At the rejuvenating trimming annually, the spring is removed half the old branches. The hard trimming is allowed when the bush is completely cut. So you can deal with Kalina. It should be borne in mind that the species that give root pigs can be cut to the base (for example, Kalina or IRGU). But species that give shoots from the bottom of the branches, it is not necessary to cut down to the bottom, but leaving the parts of the stems of 15-20 cm above the ground.

The problem can be with shrub maples - it is impossible to rejuvenate them, because they do not allow them at all, but it is necessary to give the form of Crown.

When to make a rejuvenating trimming

Conduct the rejuvenating trimming of most shrubs is better in early spring. The signal to it becomes a mumble of shoots or they are formed weak.

Crop needed above the branches located closer to the base of escape, or in a place where the growth of the rejuvenated branch was the most powerful.

Sometimes weak and weak rejuvenation. In this case, the value of the removable part of the escape is not much different from the seas and the effect of such trimming is usually low.

Radical rejuvenation

It is necessary when not only strong increments can be formed on the bush, but also weak short twigs.

All shoots of early spring are cut at the soil level. And if the shrub is soft on the breakdown (grafted plants), cut off at an altitude of 10-15 cm from the place of vaccination. As a result, the renewal kidney will give a new increase. And since the volume of the root system remained the same, there will be quite a lot of shoots.

Then you need to choose from them the strongest and well-spaced, and the remaining remove.

By the way, it is not worth a hurry with this: it is better to divide the work on two or even three stages, cutting about a third of the shoots in one year.

In this case, in one instance will be branches of two or three of different ages.

How to cut it right

It is important not to hurry to "demolish the heads", and at first carefully inspect the bush. When working, try every Escape to shorten up to a strong kidney. The cut must be done at a low angle and the "peephole". It is necessary that the pencils not formed. It is important to strive for the cutting surface to be perfectly smooth. Corget sizes testify to negligent work and an unsuitable tool. If they gathered to remove side shoots, which are departed from skeletal branches, for example, growing the bush (thickening), cutting strictly by ring influx, located at the foundation of escape, and also not leaving hemp. The fact is that these hemps in best case Drink, and at worst - can start garn. And this is the "open door" for different infections.

Once again, we recall: sections of all branches with a diameter of 2 cm must be treated with a garden boiler.

Trimming shrubs with beautiful leaves

This group includes the types and shapes of decorative shrubs with original foliage: for example, a white-camed shape of Svidin white, golden fur forms of black and spiraea paper, red-hearted forms of flavory, barberry, skumpies, bubble-nickname, nickname. It is necessary to crop them every year in early spring, and quite strongly. It is still done in order to cause the active growth of young shoots and their leaves reached the maximum decorative effect.

Snowy year (Symphoricarpos), Kizylniki (Cotoneaster) and Barberries (Berberis) do not require special trimming, although they are well tolerated haircuts and they are often used in alive hedges.

With the free landing, these shrubs (all shoots) are usually shortened to 15-20 cm. In the future, the bushes are thinned as needed, cutting out thickening and the oldest branches completely or only their tops to strong lateral branch. Only those who will replace the old trunks will be left out of the piglery shoots. Sanitary and rejuvenating trimming is made in the same way as most of other shrubs. Semi-staples, for example, decorative raspberry - hawn-hearted (Rubus Crataegifolius), beautiful (R. Deliciosus), fragrant (R. odoratus) - cut into the same way as its fruit rhodations, - annually remove the talked branch branches each year.

Plants on a strain or strambed bushes

In decorative gardening, depending on the size of the trunk (the distance from the root neck to the first branching) is distinguished by the stambic (height - up to 0.25 m), semi-strap (0.25-0.75 m), Stack (0.75-1 , 2 m), low strab (I, 2-I, 5M) and high (more than 1.5 m).

Stack is inherent in trees, to a lesser extent - shrubs. But it is precisely the cultivation of shrubs on a stamper emphasizes all their beauty and originality. Usually such artificial forms are planted on a lawn single (soliters).

By the way!

You can strengthen the growth of shrubs on low straps. To do this, choose a powerful escape in the crown, growing up the kidney directed up, lift and fix it on the support. Then the september is beginning to form the second "umbrella". And the first chip is made in spring at the right height, emerging side shoots are cut off as needed.

Pretty widespread growing at the stammer of cribs of plants. This can be found in leaf falling shrubs: amorph, bearer, turquoise, hawthorn, elderberry, dend, Iva, Karagan (Yellow Acacia), Loschina, Holly, Rutchny, Robinity, Samshat, Skumpiya, Forzing, Henome-Forest. Sometimes there are plants, giving a piggy, or low-spirited. Perfectly look in such a form of arony (black rowan), grafted on ripper ordinary; Creeping bearing - on B. European; Almonds (three-bladed, Louiseania) - on Alycha, plum, almond or cherry; ivy - on Aralia; Lilac - on turquish or ash; Henomelles - on pear, rowan or ciononia.

Often put on a stack to show the beauty and elegance of individual plant flowers, for example, strambered roses. But for their good blooming is important pruning.

Supporting trimming of a pink "tree"

In the first year after vaccination in the spring, removing the shelter, cutting cut into 1 cm above the kidney. The cut is cleaned and smeared. When the breakdown of a varietal rose will grow to the fifth sheet, the top need to be discredited.

After that, side sprigs will begin to grow. They are also pinched after the third-fifth sheet, until a beautiful crown is formed.

By the way!

Getting a grafted stramb rose can be somewhat accelerated. To do this, at the highest young shoots of rosehip (not digging it) in the spring it is necessary to make vaccinations. And in the fall, the plant digs and plant separately on growing.

It is necessary to bind the straak rose to the support, but it does not do it near vaccination, but somewhat lower so that it is not damaged. By the way, two supports are often installed - one against the other.

It is important throughout the season to remove the pigstream both on the stem and extending from the ground (from the roots), as well as pluck the appearing buds. Then all the food will be consumed to form beautiful crown With strong shoots.

On the second and in subsequent years, the plant can fully bloom. And buds are removed only on sick and weak copies.

And after the first flowering, the plant can be trimmed. At the same time, the shoots are shortened to the first strong, tried in the growth of the kidneys. At the same time, out-of-timing shoots and growing twigs are cut out of the middle of the crown.

By the autumn on the rose, the sworded flowers are no longer removed, since after that the seeds starts, which hoses the awakening of new kidneys.

At this time, the rose is important to prepare for winter, and not to build up new shoots, as it happens if you trim the faded flowers.

Trimming tea roses and roses Floribunda

Crop immediately after removing the shelter (approximately in March), when the kidneys are still sleeping or they have already launched slightly.

In the first year, all the strong shoots need to shorten on 5-6 kidneys - in length they will be 15-20 cm. At the end of the season (approximately in November), all the blooming shoots are shortening and cutting off the unconcerns, and also did not have time to wait to winter. For the second year in April, all dry, patients, weak and thickening shoots are removed. The young increase is shortened by five to six kidneys, and the remaining side twigs are cut up to 10-15 cm (about three or four kidneys remain on the hemp). Tea-hybrid roses usually give the shape of a bouquet, and the fluoribunda groups are more often cut off by a hemisphere.

Good with plenty roses!

To get a rose rose ball or molding shape on a strain, for vaccinations use plenty species or soils, giving many young branches per season.

They form them like shrubs from the first group of trimming. They bloom in June-July on lateral shoots that appear on last year's stems. If the crown is quite thick, in September, all last year's shoots cut off, leaving the increase in this year. If there are few branches, leave two or three biennium stems, cutting them into two or three kidneys.

Stambling roses can be trimmed and more compact so that the krona looks with an oval or a ball. So often come with large-flowered varieties. If you plant such a plant, the beauty of your garden or its zone is guaranteed!

Types and rules Trimming Stumbus Roses

Cropped in spring on three or six kidneys (leave a 10-15 cm length). Trim shorter is dangerous, as very powerful shoots distorting the crown are formed. It is usually so circumcised by chain-liberal, polyanth, miniature and roses Floribun-yes. These are roses that bloom on the shoots of the current year.

Only 10-15 cm shocked the ends of the shoots. So come with park and plenty groups of roses, since they bloom on the shoots of last year. On the eve, all broken and damaged shoots are removed, as well as dried and thickening. In Krone, leave three or six strongest and young, preferably challenging and divergers in different directions.

If after winter, the rose stack comes out strongly frozen, cut off quite short. At the same time, if the vaccination place was not injured - it's not scary: the plant will soon restrict, giving new shoots.

On a note

• Faster waking up the kidneys will help moist wrapping with moss-sfagnum. They lack the places where the kidneys should be worse (usually at the base of shoots), and fixed with Loutrasil.
• Remember: in Krone, especially the old, the dead hemps should not accumulate. Each spring you need to neatly cut and smear the garden warrior.
• For the formation of the rose crown, it is very important, in which direction the kidney is directed to which the cut is made. It is usually more actively growing up - it is more often preferred from cutting. But if a grade varieties with a very spreaded crown and rare shoots are brought off on the stack, cut into the kidney directed inside the crown.

Hand-made "clouds" Over flower beds

A strambered form, which give plants for several years with a haircut, can be considered one of the most vivid garde decoration techniques.

And every year, plant admirers on the stamper becomes more and more - the owners of the garden are nice to create something perfect. And this is understandable, because the slender crowns of various outlines over flower beds fascinate.

Elegance and solemnity introduced into the garden by strambered plants make it ordered and cozy.

These plants do not occupy a lot of space, and they can easily "fit" in the landscape of the smallest garden. And to grow and form such plants is easy, it is important only to master some knowledge.

Very beautiful plants in ceramic ads. And in this case, the spectrum of the grown plants is expanding due to thermo-loving.

For winter garden species On the strain you need to warm up the crown, and the root system or store them in the unheated room. And the thermal-loving contribute to the house.

Fruit shrubs on a strain

Stambling plants literally broke into our gardens. Many gardeners give them preference, trying to create a kind of miracle on their plot. And more and more often among decorative shrubs or right on the lawn, fruit shrubs are grown, which are beautiful in bloom and, besides, please delicious berries. They fit very well in the garden landscape, harmonize with flower beds, as they grow them on the strain.

Create a strambered plant, despite the seeming complexity of its external-type, quite simple. And most affordable option - grow a kinseum stack. To this end, in July, from the middle part of the shoots of golden or red currant, cuttings with five-six "eyes" are cut out and planted it into open ground. And they do it so that only the top kidney remains at the level of the soil. It should be covered with dry leaves for winter so that the cuttings are not injured from frosts that can happen when the soil is not yet covered with snow. In the spring of the next year, the top kidney is touched into growth. Your task is to grow one escape, so in the process of its growth it will be necessary to delete all side processes.

Usually by the end of the summer, the height of escape reaches 80-100 cm. And so that it is strong and healthy, it is important to water the plant and be sure to feed. For feeding at the beginning of summer use nitrogen fertilizersAnd at the end - a mixture of phosphate and potash (according to the instructions).

In the spring of next year, the growing escape is cut on an altitude of about 75-80 cm from the ground, leaving for further growth only three or four top kidneys. All other needs to be removed to the very foundation of escape. Over the summer, three or four escapes are formed from the kidney left, which will have time to grow up to 35-45 cm, sometimes a little more.

Next year, all shoots must be shortened, leaving three or four kidneys on each of them at the base. Thus, for three seasons, it is possible to form a full-fledged strabstone plant, which will begin to be fruitful for the third year.

Gooseberry "Tar"

A little more time will be required to form a gooseberry stack. When choosing varieties for this, it is better to give preference to large-scale forms resistant to mildew: for example, a chicken or warsaw - with durable, growing shoots.

If such a grade is already growing in the garden, in the spring you need to peel the branch of the uterine bush, and in the fall, it turned out from it to separate and transplant from it and permanently.

Then you need to repeat all those steps that did with golden or red currant.

The height of the strain is usually 60-100 centimeters.

The crown of such bushes is usually shaped with a ball or hemisphere.

By the way!

If the strain of the currant or gooseberry is completely low, up to 15 cm, it will turn out the so-called superior bush. He has all the trunks come out from almost one "point".

Such a plant is more elegant than a natural bush with a wide base, whose trunks grow straight from the ground at some distance from each other. Caring for a bush on the "leg", as for the strabamy form, the modification of which it, in essence, is.

Other methods of receiving a strap

You can get a strambette plant not only from an annual seedling grown from a one-bedroom cutting. Use the usual seedlove. Choose the strongest and even escape. It removes all the kidneys in the root zone and the side shoots at an altitude of about 40-50 cm.

The rest of the kidneys make it possible to develop, and they subsequently form a krona of the bush.

A good stack can be raised if the seedling is on the seedling to wear an opaque tube (not too dense). Its size should be equal to the height of the future Stam. At the same time it is important to bulk its lower part into the soil. But such a tube should not replace support. Installing supports needed for any formation method.

Rules Trimming Stumbic Fruit Shrubs

Do not allow the crown of the crown of a strambered plant: excessively big will look beatenly, and it can break the strap. The crown does not need to be afraid to cut.

Do not be afraid to remove flowers - trimming in any case will stimulate branching, and over time, new color pains will be laid.

Unable to remove the side shoots that appear just below (on the strain). Otherwise, increasing in size, they will take a lot nutrients To the detriment of the development of the main beautiful part of the plant, and decorative will suffer.

Periodically cut off the young shoots that appear on the strain in the summer at its foundation. Sometimes a piglet, and in fairly large quantities, it may appear from the ground.

If the plant is still a weak straw, you need to give it the opportunity to finally form - to tie to the support. The main thing at the same time, the loop to do free, otherwise it can damage the trunk, which is still very gentle in the young age.

You can update such a plant with a cardinal trimming (for two or three kidneys) of all shoots of early spring before the awakening of the bush.

Haircut topium plants

Pink "balls" Willow Hakuro Nishiki

IVA is a solisted Hakuro Nishiki (Salix Integra Hakuro Nishiki) - a very plastic plant. And if you correctly form, it can grow not only a bush, but also a tree, and in this case you can do without vaccination .. such plants look especially interesting if you put on them with a soliter.

I advise you to do this at the end of the present spring, since this formation will take more than one year.

First, it is necessary to roam the stalk of the willow. Fortunately, her shoots are easily rooted. They are planted into wet soil, topped with coarse-grained sand layer 2-3 cm (the place should be shaded), covered with a can.

In the first year, the top cutlery is allowed to grow freely, if he is taken from the middle, leave the strongest and even shoots on it (in the future it will be a troller) and he also gives him free to grow. In the next year or two, you need to delete all the side shoots to form a stack. And only then at the selected height pinch their top. From this point on, the crown formation begins. Appearing at the top of the side shoots two or three times during the season, it is necessary to pise the "hat" to become thicker.

In an adult plant in spring in the middle of the crown, old shoots cut out, shortening last year, do not forget

get rid of thickening small twigs. In the summer (no later than July), a young increase is shortened.

With such a haircut, the plant will always look neat and twice a year to condone in the pink "outfit".

Iva Hakuro Nisiki, formed in three svolics, it looks even more attractive, especially if you look at different points of the garden.

Figured trimming of shrubs

Shrub's curly haircut is not just a way to diversify and decorate the garden landscape. It turns out that the skill of creating topiaries and ordinary, and complex - one of the most ancient arts.

In fact, from any bushes by special techniques, you can create a figurine of an animal, a fabulous character, a sphere or a different geometric shape, a cup or a plate, to embody in the greenery an architectural masterpiece or cut even a whole picture.

It is generally accepted that figure-cut plants are an attribute of regular and architectural gardens with strict lines, despicable geometrically and restrained paints, more often than shades of green. However, not only for English gardens is suitable for topics. Such figures successfully fit into any garden with how much design, the main thing is to choose the style, form, as well as the way they are execution.

Simple shape of the haircut

For the formation of Topiaria, it is necessary to choose only the strongest, healthy, with a dense crown and uniform branchiness of the shrub.

At the first stage of such a haircut, the plant gives only approximate outlines of the future form. To do this, larger garden scissors are squeezed by the main contours, stating only the main lines and removes everything too much. Only then passes to a more thorough crossing of the crown, remove all the small twigs, which were removed from the main lines.

At the second stage, you need to arm a smaller gardens scissors that are more often used for figure haircuts. After the shapes are achieved, similar to the end result, the plant makes it possible to gain a vegetative mass, which will go about the year. During this time, young shoots will slowly fill out the formed emptiness and create the necessary foundation for the final formation of the figure.

Then in the middle of the summer, the haircut repeat, using small garden scissors.

After in August, it will only have to make the final adjustment to get perfectly smooth faces and walls of the figure.

This pruning resembles polishing practically finished product.

More complex figures

It is harder to form them. In such work, a wire frame will be needed. It will help to set the growth contours and facilitates the pruning process itself, because it will be a guide and with it you can outline the lines. Mount the wire frame on young plants, the dimensions of which are more accurately suitable for the parameters of the workpiece.

At the first stage, the main lines are formed, for which all the abishes of the bush on the contours of the wire frame are formed. For these purposes, they are far from always use, sometimes separate twigs simply guide them, taking them into the formation of the formation. Typically, only those tops that are very embarrassed from the forms you need will be agreed. A more specific trimming is carried out as the plant growing up - then all its abishes are regulated again using small garden scissors.

Complex figures usually have to adjust several times per season as new twigs grow up and get out of the contours of green sculpture.

Tis, Samshat, Holly ...

Most often, green sculptures are created on the basis of mellular, as well as gustantwist plants, without any problems carrying a haircut: Samshat, Tisa, Holly Holly, Tui bush, turquish, Barbarisa.

Forming - a phased process of creating the desired figure. And it will require not only special skills, but also patience, excerpts and attentiveness.

Shrub plants can be actually given any desired form, but it is better to begin with newcomers in this business from the most simple geometric figures - pyramids, cylinders, cube or spheres. Only traveled by the main techniques of haircuts and bringing skills to perfection, you can start creating more complex forms.

During the haircut, use exceptionally clean and sharp tools.

Before working around the plant, it is advisable to decompose the film or burlap, which can then be easily concluded and dried.

Hedges

Constructing live hugs

A haircut of a living hedge is needed not only to obtain the required form, but also to enhance the growth of lateral shoots, which makes the hedge thick.

You need to start the string in the first year after landing. Autumn landing shrubs cut off in the spring, and if they planted in the spring, to shorten their shoots should be early in spring the next year.

If weighted seedlings with an open root system are planted on the site, their shoots should be trimmed by half. And those that were formed in the nursery (with a closed root system), shorten about a third.

Flowering fence

Quite often in the garden create a real masterpiece - a flowering alive hedge. For it, almost all shrubs that can be combined to their taste are suitable. But more often use fast-growing and competitive plants - the Acacia yellow, Weigel, Hydrangea, Dale, Kalina Bulderezh and Gordovina, Lilac, Shrub, Curry, Blood-Red and Golden Currant, as well as Forzing, Chubuschnik, Spirahu and Becraft Conditioner.

Fence from the blooming summer shrubs, for example, Buddudrey David, must be cut strongly, and every spring, - and she gives abundant blossom, And the flowers will be larger than usual.

Flowering spring shrubs should be cut down approximately once every 3-4 years immediately after flowering so that the intensity of the formation of flowers does not decrease.

If the blooming alive hedge is very painful, in the spring or in the fall it is cut off radically (to old wood) - then such shrubs will answer the formation of new shoots. At the same time, the strongest of young shoots leave and shorten the next spring, which will strengthen their branching. Correction and srench "Walls" are allowed. To this end, all branches that strongly act beyond the perimeter of the previously formed form must be cut at the base.

When to cut?

The hedge from leaf fall plants is for the second time for the second year after landing, and then annually. Young bushes need to trim once a year. In the next 3-4 years in June-July, the annual increase is shortened by a third or even half. Since it stimulates the formation of new shoots, Krone is formed without holes and spheres.

Adult shrubs are cut two or three times a year, usually in spring, then in the middle of summer and in the fall. It is important to remember that every year the height of the haircut should be increased by 5-6 cm until the alive fence reaches the necessary sizes.

Fast growing plants need multiple haircuts during the season (from May to October inclusive).

Less often, about twice a year (in the middle of summer and autumn), they cut slow-growing species: for example, Barbaris, Cyclist ordinary, Snow-year-old.

· Hebmod hedge in 2-3 m and even more sea buckthorn, dend white and bloody-red, sucker, barbaris ordinary and amur, bubbler, IRGA, Vyshchina, Lilac Hungarian and ordinary, Chubuschnik, Kalina Gordin.

· For the formation of a hedge of a height of 1.2-2 m, a rose of a dog, a rocket, Russian, Kiznicker brilliant, spirea, Karagan shrub. Barbaris, Snowy Year, etc. *

· To divide the garden to zones using bosets (smooth "walls" that form in the "Cabinet" garden) with a height of 1 -1.2 m. For their formation, almonds, palm, low-spirited barberries, spiries and canbushniks should be used.

Features of haircuts of living hedges and "walls"

The cutting depth should not be immediately large, it increases as the growth and age of plants increases in the hedge.

In June-July, young plants are usually cut into a third-year increase, and with age, when the natural growth of shoots slowly fades and it needs to be stimulated, you can shorten them by half. Such trimming will not only improve branching, but also the formation of larger leaves, which is very relevant for old plants.

As the hedge achieves the necessary height, the haircut can be carried out more deeply, up to leaving the annual growths of only small hemp height 2-3 cm.

All vertically directed shoots must be trimmed while the lateral sprigs are generated after their shortening, they do not reach the desired height. In the future, it remains only to periodically adjust the general appearance.

As soon as the hedge reaches a given height, it is necessary to carry out a constant top haircut - to maintain the form. This is a mandatory reception, since even a small rust of shoots can strongly spoil the form of both rectangular and trapezoid hedges. It is less likely to cut in the event that the hedge of the triangular shape and unevenly growing shoots are not so noticeable.

Important!

In the medium strip climate, the best shape of the living hedge is a conical or trapezoidal (if you look into the profile). If a wider bottom and a narrow top, the hedge is better illuminated by the Sun, and therefore the bottom of the hedge is not taken off, and the plants are actively touched.

Possible problems of the elevation

The haircut of the "walls" from deciduous plants does not end only on pruning the tops of the shoots. If you do only, after a few years, the shrubs will break down, the shoots will be saved, the hedge will lose their former decorativeness.

"Wall" must be more deeply cut from the sides, so that, if you look into the profile, the height has long exceeded the width, and did not approach the year from year to the banal square.

Remember: The wrong haircut will lead to a deterioration in the lighting conditions, the bottom of the hedge is screamed, many dry branches will appear, the density of each plant will be reduced separately.

The shoots of the launched living hedge strongly recommend to shorten up to half the height and width. In some cases, it is even allowed to cut "on the stump" (in the photo), after which it will have to form everything first.

How to update plants

The rejuvenating haircut is usually needed not only to launched hedges, but also lost their decorative and barrier (this applies to plants with spines, for example, hawthorn or rosehip) properties. Such a haircut should be made in spring and better in two stages: in the first year, cut one side, shorter branches at a distance of 10-12 cm from the trunks, and the second cut, as usual. The next year, the same operation is repeated on the other side.

If it is necessary to rejuvenate the fence as soon as possible, in one season they make a trimming of two sides at once.

Some rules of haze

Try to make a slice oblique and over the most well developed healthy kidney directed towards the periphery of the bush. This is especially important in the formation of a young hedge.

The hedge haircut from evergreen (not coniferous) plants are largely similar to the formation of the "walls" of beautiful shrubs. The first time they are cut in spring and no earlier than one year after landing or transplant. For one reception, cut no more than a third of the green mass. If you want a crown to make a walk, at the end of the season, shorten shoots that have grown in the current year, repeating a pre-formed crown shape. After the haircut, never leave bare segments of branches, at which there is no kidneys or leaves, they are most likely dried.

After trimming all plants (blooming, deciduous, evergreen), it is necessary to create conditions for rapid recovery: plentifully pouring, make fertilizers, and climb the soil.

For a haircut of green hedgers, it is better to use a manual secateur or scissors. They apply less injury to plants and allow you to more beautifully form a living fence. The only minus is more time to work. It is much faster to perform its electrical instrument. However, immediately after the haircut, it can be seen how the leaves are messed up and cuts are made in not quite the right places. However, all the edges are smooth.

Newcomers can be advised to cut along stretched cords or wire frames. Landmarks are desirable to paint into some bright, noticeable color. Then it will be easier to work.

When regularly supporting the form of regular trimming, each subsequent slice should always be done at least a bit, but above the previous one. If you cut shoots every time at the same level, the hedge may be too barbed. It will not have a "green frame" from repeatedly branched young branches covered with foliage.

Stephanandra Gentle shoots

Stephanandra has average crown sizes. Flowers in summer, but the flowers are not obvious, so the plant is appreciated for the decorative autumn color of the leaves, as well as for bright shoots, spectacularly decorating the garden in winter. Suitable for both living hedges, as the pigstream is actively increasing. IN middle lane It is advisable to form a low curb, which can winter under the snow. In general, Stefananra is good in winter hardiness, and in the cooler regions can extort from the level of snow. But you do not need to be afraid: the plant usually quickly restores the above-ground mass (40-50 days). However, accelerate the regeneration process and it is possible. After waiting for some time to make sure that the kidneys would not dissolve, it is necessary to cut all the shoots to green, live kidneys, and to process sections. If you plant Stefa Nandora among shrubs, in the first few years you can not think about trimming.

Starting from about the fourth year of life in the garden, the krona of the bush must be reversed, for which every fourth adult stem is removed in the spring.

In the summer, it is desirable to trim all the sworded shoots, cutting them off to the strongest side branches, trying to preserve as natural as possible, that is, an empty shape of the bush crown.

More adult plants with which eight years or more, form a mass of subtle renjaceous and short shoots that strongly thickening the crown. Output one - to cut all the shoots to the base, rejuvenates the bush. It is possible to carry out such trimming in winter, and early in the spring for a week or two to the dissolution of the kidneys. And the next year in about the middle of summer, when young shoots will grow up, they pinch them.

Dietervila

This plant is desirable to let go more space, as it forms many root offspring. And as a result - lush curtains, which, by the way, become red in the fall.

In a limited environment, you will have to restrain the growth of the deervilles with a hurious, in the spring cutting a bush around the perimeter, and at the same time making sanitary trimming. If the soil is nutritious, the growth of new shoots will be too active, so it is necessary to cut extra and in summer.

Pruning semi-starnikov

Haircut needed semi-departments

Most semi-staples also need to regularly trim in order to avoid their crown and loss of decorativeness.

A few days before the plants are completely blend, it should be removed all the blooms and shorten the fruitful parts of the bushes about 5-6 cm. Such a procedure sometimes extends blossoms or stimulates repeated. If the semi-stares are not growing with a group, but separately, when cropping, it is better to give them a semicircular shape with a crown - so they will look more attractive, especially before and after flowering.

If we decided to pruning in the spring, it is better to do it more drastically and preferably before the start of the rustling of young shoots. At the same time, last year's stems at an altitude of 15-17 cm are shortened.

Significant trimming, as a rule, is subjected to lavender, Santolin, Medicinal Sage, Issop, Loffant, etc. Their trimming is aimed at preserving the compact form of bushes. By the way, in the appropriate conditions (the composition of the soil, moisture), these semi-stares are not bad in the middle strip.

If you tighten the lavender and sage with the trimming of the lavender and sage, the abstract shoots will not have time to grow to the first autumn frosts and can be partially suffered, otherwise to freeze completely.

More radical pruning is also necessary for the semi-stakeholders of the late period of flowering, for example, Alpine Astra. It is cut pretty low above the ground, after which the soil is mulched with a compost, which will be warm and will be a feeding next season.

Pruning hydrangea

Before trigging, you need to know exactly what you have hydrangea (Hydrangea) is a scattering, tree or largest. Each has its own features.

By the way!

Pruning is possible because the plants have the ability to restore lost parts. Even if it is made there, where there is no side branch, nor visible kidney, shooting kidney appear shoots. However, remember that as the branch approaches the base, the effect of pruning gradually fades.

Miscellaneous Hydrangea (N. Panicuiata)

The pruning of the buggy hydrangea will not be difficult, if you remember that it blooms on the shoots of the current season.

Crop can be cut in autumn, in winter or spring. No need to do it annually.

It is impossible to cut in the summer: flower kidneys have already been formed at the ends of new shoots, and hydrangea is preparing for flowering. I like to do it early in spring. I remove small, weak, rubbing and intersecting twigs. Strongly shorter, following the same principle as in the case of a tree: if annual shoots are a lot, each complicated inflorescence will be smaller.

Miscellaneous hydrangea on the strain

Misseling hydrangea can be formulated stabble form. To do this, the young bush in the spring cut out all the shoots, leaving the most powerful one. It is expelled to 70-100 cm, regularly by removing all the side shoots and the piglets. The crown is usually shag-like. Such a "church" is very impressive, but you need to remember: the shoots of the blurred hydrangea are very brittle, and inflorescences form a huge "cap" and without additional supports can break down.

In general, the fragileness of shoots threatens not only the stramb "trees", but also the bushes, especially the resulting and uncircumciated. For the winter, the inflorescences of all Hydrangees cut off, and I bind the shoots. Strengthening the strength of shoots will help a weak solution of manganese. Several times over the summer, I water the hydrangea to them.

Need to trim very carefully garden hydrangeas. Strong trimming often leads to weak plant flowering. And Hydrangea Miscelled, on the contrary, cut up to two-six kidneys. If it does not cut so much, minor inflorescences will be formed.

Trimming tree hydrangea

The tree hydrangea (N. Arborescens), for example, the most common antnabelle variety, blooms on the shoots of the current year. This means that in the fall you can lock all shoots at an altitude of 20-25 cm from the ground. And the early spring to cut at the soil level about the third part of old shoots.

First, it is necessary that the bush is not thickened, and secondly, the inflorescences will be somewhat smaller, but each of them will be formed much larger. And thirdly, so that the bush was a beautiful spherical shape, and the inflorescences rose on strong stems and "watched" up. Otherwise, heavy "caps" will grow, hanging at the ends of the long, arcuctural curved "fishing rods". The only period when it is impossible to trim the tree of hydrangea - late spring. At this time, the plant is preparing to bloom.

We form a macrophyll. Calendar of work

In trimming large hydrangea (N. Macrophylla) There are subtleties. Many specialists do not consider it at all necessary to cut it, only remove old, damaged and weakened branches, and at any time.

First year

After the landing in the fall or early spring, the main growths for strong kidney (or two) are shortened, weak are cut off and the root system is well mounted.

October November.

At the bottom of the crown during the growing season, several strong increments were formed and a large number of lateral branches on the main shoots - only the weakest or violating symmetry are cut off.

Second year

June. Flowers are formed on last year's gains. After flowering from the base, new strong shoots are formed. July. After flowering, it is necessary to crop all the generative shoots to the newest powerful increments that have grown below (shorten up to them).

Third and subsequent years

July. Immediately at the end of flowering, all the sworded shoots are removed to the healthy increments located below, and all weak branches are completely cut out. If the bush becomes strongly thickened, the quarter of all old shoots also cut to the base. Elena Potapova, Mytishchi Moscow region.

Hydrangea, which blooms on last year's shoots, inflorescences with three-four closest leaves are cut into late July.

The fact is that in August she begins to lay the flower buds of the next year, which voluntarily ripen during August - October. If you trim such a hydrangea late in autumn Or do it too radical, there will be no flowering next year.

A new method of trimming MacroFill: Blossom - Better!

Removable large-scale hydrangeas are blooming not only from the top of the kidney of shoots (the first wave of flowering), but also on lateral perennial shoots, as well as annuals that appear below the ground level. They are blooming later. It is the property to be repeated or repeatedly blossoming and called repairing.

A new method of trimming large-scale removable hydrangeas is aimed at getting well blooming in a cold climate. Already in July, the branch of the bush without the top flower kidney is cut very briefly, leaving one side kidney on each branch (as closer to Earth). Such kidneys can easily cover the winter and save. This trimming stimulates the laying of flower kidney, which will have time to mature to the next spring and bloom. In addition, it stimulates the formation and flower kidney on the roots, of which annual shoots occur in the spring. They will catch up in the growth of perennial and, most likely, they will also bloom.

The next spring this bush must be imperative every week before August fertilizers with microelements and high content of nitrogen (well in this case has proven the ratio N: P: K - 3: 1: 1). For the winter, the plant falls asleep slightly above the trimbed branches.

By the way, in the regions with a cold climate, this method of trimming will allow good to bloom and less frost-resistant non-repairing varieties of hydrangea.

Igor Arkatov, Collector, Kazan

Pruning spiria

Spring formative

Spring Spring Length of Flowering: Dubberless; argut, or naked; gray, or ash and ash; Tunberg; Wangutta; nipponskaya; Cryoliste.

In the first year after landing, it is only necessary to shortly shorten skeletal shoots, remove all weak, damaged branches and those that grow inside the bush.

For the second year, immediately after flowering, it is necessary to crop all the sworded shoots to the most severe and young side escape. All weak branches should also be removed, cutting them in such a way that the symmetry of the bush crown is preserved.

On the third and subsequent years (also after flowering), it is necessary to crop outward branches to the most severe and young side escape, cutting old (3 or more). This begins the rejuvenation procedure of the bush.

Summer forming

Spiray summer period Blossoms (S. Japanese, Paper, Berezoliste, Willard, Douglas) are cut into late June or early July after flowering.

With the trimming of young plants, you can cope with the help of a secaterator, in adult spirits there may be thick shoots, and may need a garden saw.

Starting a short of the spires of any time of flowering you need from the first year of life. Usually immediately after planting in the spring, all shoots are shortened to about half to a strong external kidney directed outward. All weak shoots are completely cut.

Next is cut in the summer immediately after flowering. And first of all, they remove all the blurred inflorescences, which stimulates the growth of side shoots, and this will allow flowering to continue as long as possible (especially Japanese Sparies).

For the second year in the spring (approximately in March or early April), they again cut off all the shoots on half of the length. In the summer, it is also possible to limit ourselves to the trimming of only the blurred inflorescences. On the third season, you should repeat the spring and summer trimming, deleting all the old shoots, whose age for more than three years, cutting them to the base.

Cut the lilac

Do not break down

Trim lilac is preferably annually or at least across the season. In the middle lane, this is done in spring before the start of the deploration. Since flower kidneys are located on the tops of the shoots of last year's growth (usually - the strongest, located at the top of the crown), they are not shortened, like fruit trees. This is the basis of future flowering. We remove all weak, thin, curved and growing the crowns of shoots that have no full-fledged flower kidney. Broken and dried cut throughout the year. The next season of young sprouts choose the best, and unnecessary removed.

Immediately after flowering, the shockless bullets are cut out. This not only improves the view of the bush, but also relieves it from the need to spend the forces on the formation of seeds.

At the graft plants, it is possible to form a "wild" stroke: it is removed throughout the season immediately as they appear, without leaving hemp.

Rejuvenate old lilac bushes

The rejuvenating trimming improves the type of lilac and the quality of flowering, increases the resistance of plants with diseases and pests, increases life. In addition, the replacement of old trunks can slightly reduce the height of the bushes to bring the blossom zone to the human eye level. For these purposes, early spring old trunks with peeling bark and finely spill, leaving low hemp, or translate them to a good strong lateral branch. During the season they grow strong shoots that form a new bush. A completely old specimens with a weak future formation is better to rejuvenate in stages, alternately removing the trunks for several years in a row. Curnestic bushes can be trimmed below; The grafts are rejuvenated more carefully, watching not accidentally cut off the whole lead.

Why did the honeysuckle died?

Last year cut out all the old branches to the Earth. The plant died. Why?

Irina Chuhrakova

If the honest is a bush to cut almost to the ground, only a small number of sleeping kidney in the root cervion zone may awaken, and that if there is no drought. At the rejuvenating trimming of old honeyscraft bushes, there are heights of 30-40 cm height from the soil level. After such a procedure, young shoots grow. At the same time it is necessary to take into account that they can grow too much, so the renewed bush should be reappeted on the third year. Depending on the variety, you can leave 10-15 of the strongest and evenly located branches, and the rest of the remove.

Pruning forsia

This shrub is a bright representative of the Maslin family, and even before the appearance of the first leaflets pleases with a magnificent fountain of gold flowers. Quite often, the form is used to form a blooming hedge. After flowering a bush - a great background for other plants.

Unfortunately, forsia is quickly thickened, losing its decorativeness, so it is necessary to periodic trimming. Only a very shortening bush can not, otherwise there will be weakly blossom. Strong trimming is necessary only if the plant is poorly branched.

In the first two or three years after landing, a seedlings need only slightly shortening. After the first winter and every spring make sanitary trimming. It is not necessary to fear: she will not harm the plant, on the contrary, it stimulates the growth of shoots and give the Crown of her denotoms. Because the forsy is growing rapidly, some shoots are ugly knocked out of the crown outlines. They can be cut or better - in time to quote throughout the season. Starting from 3-4 years of the life of the bush (when he grows up and strengthened), you need to start a more serious trimming, without forgetting every year to carry out sanitary.

Crop the forsia is better after it is completely completely (in the middle lane it is approximately in June). Slop shoots should be over a strong kidney or strong side escape. All dry and old spool shoots up to 4-6 cm from the ground, which will stimulate the revelation of new ones. Such trimming will help regulate the thickening, as well as the height of the bush. Optionally, you can give forsius any form. Single bushes are usually allowed to grow well. Once every three years, you will definitely adjust the crown. If this is not done, the bush can be very stretched, and there will be weakly and not so bright as well-kept specimens.

If the forsy is growing in a living hedge, too, about three seasons you need to trim. And the pruning will, rather, not adjusting, but rejuvenating. At the same time, the shoots shorten on 2/3 of length or completely cut them off, that is, "on the stump." And it will give an impetus to active growth from the foundation of the new "chapelurs" bush.

Details Updated: 03/05/2015 19:09 Views: 92187

With the arrival of spring, the time of trimming of the green inhabitants of our gardens occurs: you need to break their crowns and shorten the branches. However, gardeners often fall into extremes and cut during this period even those plants, with trimming, which is better to wait until summer or autumn, for example, early shrubs. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the pruning with knowledge of the case.

The basic rules of trimming you can learn from the section of trimming trees and shrubs, but decorative trees and shrubs have a certain specificity of care.

Cutting decorative trees, we are primarily we strive to give them to crowns the appropriate shape and to keep it . Plants in live rods Strigess so that the foliage is thick and in crowns did not scream holes. Thanks to the regular use of the secateurs, we achieve fruit trees and berry shrubs especially rich harvest. Decorative shrubs. As well as curly and container plants cut in the first place for lush flowering. If the plant has decorative bark, then with the help of trim, it is possible to emphasize the beauty of young shoots once again, because with the time of coloring the bark of old branches becomes bell.

In addition, pruning is designed maintain the natural shape of the crown of green inhabitants of the garden and adjust their dimensions . But in any cases it is necessary to clearly understand that too big shrub or an adult tree even after a very strong trimming does not turn into an attractive dwarf plant! And, of course, do not forget that regular - especially spring pruning of plants contributes to a more intensive appearance of new shoots.

The use of saws and secateurs contributes to the rejuvenation of plants, due to the pruning they can return lost forces. In rare cases, crop trees and shrubs need radically, cutting out all the stems at the very base. Such a method is applicable, but with a good future formation of the bushes of flavory or forssee. In most plants, the rejuvenating trimming is carried out in stages.

Should be clarified! One-year increase - this is the increase in last year with numerous vegetative and generative kidneys. The bark can be lighter than other shoots or radically differ in color. (for example, U. Derene white).

The cut should be done at an angle so that water causing the rotting of wood is not stood on its plane. In addition, the essential value, has a distance between the cut and below the kidney, there is a danger that it dries down or freezes. If, on the contrary, it is very strongly retreated by Prenok, where the infection can quickly penetrate.

Trimming ornamental trees.

Some representatives of the Green Kingdom of the years are becoming more painfully, so do not need crown correction (for example, Magnolia and Maple Dlanidoid). But many decorative trees And shrubs, whatever they bloom or their crowns did not lose form, a periodic trimming is necessary.

Decorative apple tree, for example every 2-3 years needs only in regulatory trimming . At the same time remove old, damaged and thickening branches. Regular strong trimming is necessary only by those trees and shrubs that should retain a certain form of crowns. The same to relate to plants, the flowers in which appear on the young, just formed shoots, for example, to the Three-bladed almond. Very severe trimming after flowering contributes to the fact that they have numerous shoots with floral kidney in the current year. Many deciduous trees are kept like a radical haircut: White Acacia Umbraculifera. and Iva goat Pendula. After trimming, they quickly turn new shoots that appear from the kidneys on the remainder of the circumcision branch.

For small gardens, the trees with a spherical crown, such as Catalpa Bignonyevoid, are suitable for small gardens. Nana. . Regular trimming helps to restrain the growth of the tree. Such trees endure even severe trimming, almost to the base of skeletal branches.

Trees with a spherical crown.

Thanks to the dense crown of the harmonious spherical shape and bright green foliage of a pseudo-survey or white acacia Robinia Pseudoacacia) Umbraculifera. ideal for planting in a small garden: This tree is extremely well withstanding even a very strong trimming, it can be reduced to any sizes, while it will not lose its presentability.

Without trimming the diameter of the ball pseudo-suritation crown Umbraculifera. Over time, it can be 4-5 m. It can be warned if every 2-3 years fully trim all branches almost to the base, leaving only short hemps . Best time For such a trimming, smoking day in early March. Slow-growing species, for example Ginkgo biloba MARIKEN. Pruning is necessary only after many years after landing, while it can be limited to only a weak correction of the crown. Liquidambar Smolenosny Gum Ball Also distinguished by a beautiful spherical crown, which as the rules do not need pruning.

Light Pruning White Acacia can be done at any time of the year . But it is better in early spring. Then young shoots will quickly hide the ugly places in the crown arising after trimming.

Also cut off:

• clean ordinary Fráxinus Excélsior.,
• white acacia Umbraculifera.,
• katalpa Bignonyevoid Nana..

Stambling shrubs are cut into the same principle. Three-blade almonds with gentle pink, as if air flowers, it looks incredibly elegant. For this plant annual severe trimming is desirable . If immediately after flowering branches almond Three-bladed to shorten up to 10 cm, next year long lush-flowering branches are guaranteed.

Early in the spring cut off strab syrian hibiscus: Depending on whether you want to see the crown, the stems can be shortened, leaving only 2-3 kidneys. Top kidney should be directed outward.

WWI soliste Hakuro Nishiki. The first time is cut in late March. Additionally, the branches can also be shortened in May and at the end of June. After each trimming, the tree gives new shoots with beautiful foliage.

WWI with a bush crown is usually trimmed early in spring. If you want to admire the flowers, it is possible to wait until the plant is wondering.

Ball-shaped maple Ostrolistic cut is not as much as white acacia Umbraculifera. Or do not cut off at all. Important: The branches are shortened only from August to December, no later, otherwise the tree will cry.

In the grafted stramblast plants, a wild greed can appear on the break. Its just like root pigs cut off at the base , not leaving hemp.

Plants with a disrupting crown.

Stumbling plants with romantic hanging branches invariably attract a look. A similar molding form of the crown is found in many trees and shrubs, for example, willow Goats (Salix Caprea) Pendula..

This tree grows quickly, so branches shorten every year , leaving the hemp with a length of about 10 cm. The tree, which did not cut a long time, can also be rejected using severe trimming.

If we are talking about grafted trees and shrubs, you need to completely remove dicks Formed at the scene below the vaccination location.

Do not cut:

• beech Lesnaya (Fagus Sylvatica) RURPURREA PENDULA.,
• elm Rashavy (úlmus Glábra) Camperdownii.,
• birch Bearded (Betula Pendula) YOUNGII.,
• white Mulberry (Mórus Álba) Penaula. .

These flooded crown plants grow slower than their rectifying relatives. The crowns of the listed trees are formed by themselves and do not need to be adjusted. Is that damaged branches you can cut off at the very reason or shorten the branches which seem too big or long. The latest procedure must be carried out in stages so that the plant does not lose a beautiful view.

Decorative apple trees.

While fruit trees Must be happy primarily with an abundant harvest, decorative species are appreciated primarily for a beautiful appearance. Decorative Apple Tree (Malus) Especially popular due to the crown of compact, bright color of autumn foliage and even in winter remaining fruit on branches. This church is cut only if necessary and always in order to preserve the harmonious type of plant. For this early spring remove the crowns growing inside and crossed, as well as dry and damaged branches.

To transform a corrupt village in strabetic, in addition to the above branches, every year it is necessary to remove the lower side branches , leaving one, the longest, as the central conductor, until the desired height is reached. If it is necessary to slow down the growth of the apple tree on the strip-level stock, spend the summer trimming, although the structure of the plant is visible worse.

A real beauty can be called a decorative cherry - sakurachieving anti-aircraft bloom in April - May. At old trees It is enough to limit ourselves to only weak cutting of the crown . And if decorative apple trees are trimmed in early spring, it is better to cut the sakura in the summer, when these plants slow down the sludge and slices are healing faster.

For vertically growing ornamental cherries, for example cherry Small Pipe (Prunus Serralata) Amanogawa. , there is a place even in small gardens and barisades. Their crown is good and without trimming.

Tees colonum form, for example tIS Berry (Táxus Baccáta) varieties Fastigiata aurea. , well tolerate haircut. but cruculate only old plants Or in the case when a slim form is preferable, and the colon-shaped krone is grouped.

Beautiful without trimming

While some trees and large shrubs have a natural beautiful crown form or acquire it thanks to the adjustment, there are a group of plants that pruning does not benefit : Many slow-growing trees, such as magnolia, Maple Dlanoid (Acer Palmatum) Better look with a crown of natural shape. Is that them can be slightly to proper.

Since slow-growing trees and shrubs, on old wood, new shoots no longer appear, each step should be carefully thought out, because because of the wrong trimming, a beautiful tree can be on for a long time Disfigure. If there are no skills in trimming, delete branches are best in early spring When even the newcomer can well see the structure of the crown of the plant.

Also cut off:

• maple Dlanoid (Acer Palmatum),
• bassist (laburnum)
• cercis (Cercis), Magnolia (Magnolia),
• corylopsis,
• gamamelis (Hamamelis),
• common wolper year
• borovik.

Trimming springwenty shrubs.

Many shrubs, which, like forzing, bloom in spring, floral kidneys appear, first of all, on last year's gains. If shrubs do not cut, they are aging, and the number of new shoots decreases. To stimulate the education of new shoots, these plants after flowering follows every year to cut forward . For this, individual old branches are cut from the soil surface. In addition to the right, you need to delete or shorten the shields. You can additionally cut and separate lateral branches directed in the middle of the bush.

Also cut off:

• bubbler (PhysoCarpus),
• blood-Red Currant (Ribes Sanguineum),
• deutzia, Chubuschik (Philadélphus),
• forzia (Forsythia),
• kalina Ordinary (Vibúrnum óPulus),
• collection (Kolkwitzia),
• spirae Wanguttei (Spiraea X Vanhouttei)
• kerryia (Kerria),
• weigela (Weigela).

Trimming the summer shrubs.

Pruning is held first in order to be abundantly blooming . In addition, plants due to regular trim acquire a beautiful compact form.

Many shrubs blooming in summer, flower kidneys are laid on young shoots that appear in spring. Typical example of buddha. So that the plant in the spring gave as much young shoots as possible with floral kidney, buddhell \u200b\u200bis cut into autumn or early spring.

But for the majority of early plants, for example, forzia, floral kidneys are laid on last year's growths. If the shrub is cut, as the buddha in the spring, the flowers will be very small. therefore Rannetic shrubs cut off immediately after flowering . Then plants will re-give new shoots, lay a good basis for flowering next year. The exception is only shrubs with beautiful fruits, such as beautiful (Callicarpa) and European bearing. Although they bloom in the spring, but rooting the branches immediately after flowering, you will cut and fruit. Such shrubs should only be rejuvenated 1 time in 5 years, completely removing late autumn old branches.

Some shrubs flowers appear on perennial branches. These shrubs include irga and lilac. They do not need to cut regularly, enough to cut the bushes every few years . And cross-cutting is contraindicated.

Cutting off the plant, many gardeners allow one and the same error:they cut the scrubbed scissors for living hedges only from above, equal to the bushes at one height. This, in turn, can lead to the fact that plants will not bloom at all or lose their attractiveness. As a result, a new root piglery appears and the plant is rejuvenated. The function of the old branch can be reproduced and a younger lateral process.

To do this, cut the branch over the escape selected lateral branch. The branch continues to grow, but the role of the top now performs a young escape. Removing only individual branches, you will help the shrub to keep the natural shape, and in winter even without leaves it will look beautiful. In general, than radical pruning, the more young shoots appear on the shrub. In the summer they also need to proper well, otherwise, in a short time, the bush grows up to the same size.

At all Not allowed strong thickening on grafted shrubs . Otherwise, the wild stroke from the stock will quickly displace the cultural lead.

There are shrubs, such as white and silky, which do not differ in the special splendor of flowers or coloring leaves, but they are the owners of bright branches.

This advantage is particularly much noticeable in winter. However, only young shoots differ in color, after 3-4 years, the color of the crust becomes flexible. Therefore, the purpose of trimming such shrubs, the formation of new shoots. Plant it is necessary to cut forward every year in early spring shortly before the appearance of escapes. , Sut off at the surface of the soil all the branches over three years. Launched bushes of the dend can be cut throughout the entire season.

Also cut off:

• derente silky (Cornus Sericea),
• iva Volchnikova (Salix Daphnoides),
• rubus Cockbur-Nianus),
• derenny white (withnus alba)

Beautiful after trimming or without it:

• derene blooming (Cornus Florida)
• deren Cone (Cornus Kousa),
• folded Kalina (Viburnum Plaicatum) Mariesii,
• photoGill (Fothergilla),
• derented controversial (Cornus Controversa),
• corylopsis Spicata.

In order for the lavender in the summer of fragrant in full force, and her bush had a harmonious appearance, the plant must be cut 2 times a year, using scissors for living hedges.

The first time in the spring, when the temperature begins to gradually rise, the tops of the shoots are shortened by a third, giving a semicircular shape.

The second time in the fall, when inflorescences are already dried. This time the flowerons are removed together with 2-3 top pairs of leaves.

Similarly, young plants are cut and young plants are already in the first year after landing. Then the lavender grows up, creating a dense carpet. If the lavender does not cut, then the shoots are shirled to the most tips. At the same time, the plant will lose compact shape and poorly transfers stronger spring cropping.

Some gardeners cut the lavender by the secateur, but it is better to use the scissors for living hedges, they easier to give a uniform pillow-shaped cush. See that the bush acquires the outline of the hemisphere. Dry branches can be used to aromatize the room.

Pruning hydrangea

Depending on the species, hortensia Flower kidneys are laying at different times of the year, from this and depends on the care of each specific species. For example, the hydrangea of \u200b\u200blarge-scale flowers appear on last year's growths. This means that the floral kidneys are laid on them in the summer last year, so it is impossible to cut the spring plant.

But at the hydrangea, the blurred flowering runs on young shoots of the current year, so its bushes can be trimmed enough. At the shadowless tree hydrangea, spherical inflorescences also appear on annual growths. However, in any case, the hydrangea of \u200b\u200ball kinds, every 3-4 years they need a solid rejuvenating trim, then the bushes will always have a beautiful compact form.

As in each rule there are their own exceptions And here: almost every type of hydrangeas are at least one grade, which has flowers to be laid differently than the rest of the conid. Therefore, the peculiarities of each type and variety are best to learn from specialized reference books, even before buying a new green pet.

G. hortinzia large-scale aboutclinely negative . The hydrangea hydrangea, dust and hydrangea hydrangea and hydrangea hydrangea appear on bilateral branches. So that the bushes evenly grow up and acquired a beautiful form, in the first year after landing they do not cut them at all . At the end of winter or early spring you should remove only dry inflorescences , neatly cutting them over the first pair of kidneys, but not lower. Otherwise, you remove the already laid floral kidneys, and the plant will not bloom. And so that young shoots are constantly formed on hydrangea, the bush needs to cut forward every 3-4 years. . To do this, flush with the surface of the soil cut the old branches that have become weakly blossom.

Hydrangea Mistelstea Middle trimming is required. Miscellaneous Hydrangea (Hydrangea Paniculata) Significantly different from other types of hydrangeas, the inflorescences of the conical form. Since her flower kidneys are formed in annual branches and shoots of the current year, this plant blooms plentifully, even if it suffered from strong frosts. In the spring for the first three years after landing, all strong skeletal branches should be shorted for a third, weaker half. In an adult plant Remove old branches growing in the middle of the bush, and also cut apart annual, with dried inflorescences , up to four kidneys. Of these, young shoots with floral kidneys appear. Without trimming, the bush greatly grows, in this case it will be necessary to proper as soon as possible. Exceptions, in varieties Rgaesokh and Dharuma. buds appear on last year's branches (growths), so they are not cut. Only at the end of the summer you can remove the fiction of the infloresception.

Hydrangea Differs in frost resistance and abundant bloom. Thanks to the bright white, similar to pumps of inflorescences - the balls, it perfectly will fit into both the village and in the modern style of the garden. The most hardy variety tree hydrangea AnnaBelle , the flowers of which painted at first in gentle-green color, increasing, gradually become white. This, and less known varieties Grandiflora. and White Dome. Flowers appear on shoots of this year. So it can be in early spring without a remorse of conscience root , leaving 15-20 cm above the surface of the soil. Thanks to such a radical trimming on the bush, more inflorescences will appear, while they will be larger. With young plants should be coordinated, they are cut more moderately. In May, After the appearance of the leaves, the plant is usually no longer cut. . Since these hortensia Very heavy and large inflorescences, they need a support. Tip: re-rooting some of the stems in mid-June, then later the shrub will start blossoming again and will last it up to the fall.

In time distinguished autumn, Spring and Summer Trimming , of which the spring is considered the main one. At the same time, for each group of roses, from small flower and up to high plenty, there are their rules for trimming.

The most suitable time for the spring trimming of roses, comes in April , namely, when the Forsic flowers bloom. As a rule, this means that the threat of severe frosts has already passed and soon new shoots will appear at the queen of flowers. However, if the rose needs to be very easy to switch or remove individual old branches, then it can be done in the fall.

Cropped branches can not be left in the garden or put in compost. Then it will be possible to prevent the spread to other plants, pathogenic microbes, mushrooms causing black spot and real mildewing dew.

Shrub roses (removable) single and re-blooming are cut in different ways. The latter includes all modern varieties, park roses, as well as many English roses, perfectly blooming all summer. Early In the spring they need to cut forward Removing primarily dry and damaged branches. Shorten side shoots with an external bush approximately 5 kidneys. This contributes to a more abundant flowering.

If you wish, you can shorten a shrub in a height per and two thirds of length. It is blooming once, many old varieties include. They bloom abundantly on the growth of last year. In order for the next year on plants, shoots with floral kidneys were formed, immediately after flowering, such roses should be trimmed.

Floribund, tea-hybrid and miniature roses.

First remove the frozen, dry and damaged branches , then growing inside the bush stalky, and cut to a healthy fabric. Then 3-5 of the youngest and strong stems are shortened taking into account the growth strength and varietal features of each plant. In roses from groups of floribund and tea-hybrid on each stem, there are 3-4 lower well developed kidneys, and heavy varieties are larger. Miniature I. soil roses In the spring, do not cut down at all And in the summer they remove the bleached inflorescences, with 1-2 leaves.

Pleet roses.

At removable plenty roses in spring cut all old stems , leaving 5-6 strong annual increases, and if there are few of them, then a few two-year-old, and shorten the side sprigs up to 3-5 kidneys. After trimming, the stems are neatly tied up to the support, if possible, directing the stems at the top of the horizontally or at an angle, which stimulates flowering. In the summer, the faded flowers are removed along with 2-3 leaves, after which the roses are quickly blooming again.

Single-winding rampers, such as varieties Veilchenblau. , do not deliver a lot of trouble. The flowering of them passes along the entire length of the overwhelming stalks of last year's growth, so trimming is reduced to removing all old stems and shortening side shoots up to 20-25 cm.

Stumbling roses.

When trimming strabetic roses, it is important to know which group includes graft graft . If it belongs to tea-hybrid, floribunda or shrub rosesCompact form forms predominantly straightforward branches. To give the crown of a strambered rose rounded shape, the branches of such plants in early spring are shortened to 20-30 cm.

If Kronu. stumbus Rose. present large miniature roses, they are cut as hard. In a different way, things are dealing with roses with disintegrating stems, so-called wasting or cascade straak roses. They will bring with plenty roses, including rabblers, as well as miniature roses with drooping stems. Cascade roses are shortened only too long branches. Nevertheless, that Rose from year to year remains beautiful and abundantly bloom, still it is necessary to remove too old branches from time to time, thereby freeing the place to form young growths.

Important: Before rummageing the queen of colors, carefully urinate the secret. Then the slice will turn out even, and besides, you will spend less time on the haircut.

It's time to engage in cropping ornamental shrubs. The work is not so simple, as it seems at first glance, and requires an understanding of the biology of plants, their peculiarities of their growth.

Jasmine (Chubuschnik)

Do not care for the secret without a clear understanding of the pruning goal. And goals are different ...

1. Sanitary trim, or clean. We remove all dry, broken, sick and damaged branches.
2. Formative or structural pruning. Let's look at the bush from the side and present the image of the plant to which we will strive for several years. Having determined the optimal shape of the bush, we remove all unnecessary, cut out the intersecting, shadowing each other or growing to the center of the branch.
3. Rejuvenating, or deep trimming. Once every three years cut out to the bottom of the old branches.
4. Radical cropping, or "landing on a stump." Every year in early April, we cut the entire bush on a short paste.

Trimming times depend on the type of trimming and features of the growth of shrubs.

• Early spring. Pruning, which is carried out from the end of the frost to the dissolution of the kidneys, coincides with the natural rhythms of the life of plants and therefore stimulates the powerful growth of shoots.
• Early summer. After the completion of active in the beginning of growth, springwenty shrubs and lianas are cut at the beginning of the growth of shoots.
• Summer trim. Until August, the branches are selectively removed to keep vegetative growth.

Technique trimming

The location of the cut must be smooth, without damage to the bark and Cambia, which will "delay" the wound. Thin twigs (up to a centimeter in diameter) are removed by a secator, thicker - a garden saw or suchkore. Shortening branches, make a "cut in the kidney."

The sections immediately smear the garden harness or stick to the leukoplasty. Cuts with a diameter of less than 0.5 cm can not be processed.

The need for cropping various shrubs

Features of the trimming of shrubs depend on the peculiarities of its growth. Conditionally shrubs can be divided into several groups.

First group trimming

These are blooming in the spring and early summer deciduous shrubs. New shoots are always formed in the lower part of the bush or in the middle of last year's branches, and flower kidneys - on last year's gains.

Shrubs of this group are cut immediately after flowering. It uses sanitary trimming in the spring and supporting trimming (every three years) in the spring after flowering, while completely removes approximately half of all old branches. If the bush did not cut off for a long time, try to rejuvenate it, cutting almost to the base.

This group includes tall spring-breathing Spiray (witty, Tunberg, Wangutta, Golden, Dubrazolic, Nipponskaya, Gray, or ash), forzing, Chubuschnik (garden jasmine), date, Weigla, Kerry Japanese, decorative currant, tree peony And other wounded shrubs.

Most of them are rapidly aging: on old branches is formed noticeably fewer flowers, the branches are broken and the bush loses his decorativeness.

Kerry Japanese.

Kerry Japanese, often frosting in winter, you can cut the whole briefly, it time for the season to grow up to a meter and even blooming. The formed bushes have a more neat form than old collapses. Various forms of Kerria planted on the stump are especially interesting.

Weigla Red Prince.

Wegel Theoretically, it is impossible to cut very much (it does not bloom). But Wegel have a fairly high future formation ability, so the frozen plants can be boldly to cut "under zero": they even bloom to the autumn of the lattern flowers.

European forsiya.

Forzion, In which the most flowers are formed on three-year-old branches, without acute needs do not touch, only sanitary trimming is carried out.

Second group trimming

This group includes deciduous shrubs blooming in the middle of summer and in the fall, in which the flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year: buddedia, summerturing spirits (Japanese, Douglas, White Color, Ivolet), hydrangea Miscellaneous, Hydrangea Tree, Papelty Shrub.

In order to maintain the compact beautiful form of these shrubs, early spring radically cuts off last year's annual shoots - on a short funeral with a height of 10-15 cm. Thin weak branches are cut to base. Cuts and faded inflorescences, but at the Hydrangees of Inflorescences, which retain their decorativeness until the end of the season do not touch.

Hydrangea

Annually cropped Japanese spiries form dense, abundant blooming, bright plants.

The leaf falling semi-stares can be attributed to this group: cariopteris, Lavaiter, Lavender, Ruta Fascinous. The shoots of these plants are decorated only at the bottom, and the upper part is usually frozen in winter.

They cut them off early in the spring, but a little later, when the kidneys will be waged in the lower part of the bush and can be seen how much to shorten the stems.

Third group trimming

This group includes decorative decorative shrubs (turpes white, different types Bezins).

Deren. It differs not only to beautiful leaves, but also very bright red or cherry crust. But such it only happens on young shoots, with the age of the bark gray, the leaves are minor.

Always to achieve bright branches, it is possible only annual or once every two years "landing on a stump", that is, by the wicking distance of a short trimming (usually hemps are 10-15 cm). Do not be afraid to do this: the dend will grow for the season.

In severe pruning, almost all types need bezins. In addition, the grade of elderberry in black winter is greatly frozen. Bezin after trimming quickly grow and appears in all its glory its large carved leaves.
Tamarix and Mirikariaalso frozen. But they are strongly cut into them every year even in countries with a mild climate (so as not to be pulled out). After pruning, the shoots of plants grow to 1-1.5 m and look wonderful, surprising in the openwork.

Fourth group trimming

It includes all shrubs that do not form regularly replacing shoots at the base of the bush. Shrubs that give new shoots only from the top and upper side kidneys along the periphery of the crown, bloom and retain the viability and without supporting trimming. Older branches here are not superfluous - they form a crown.

All kinds of hawthorn, IRGA, lilac, leaf falling beacklets, kizylniki, viburnum, skumpia leather, decorative varieties Cherries, plums and apple trees, bush maples need only in sanitary trimming and thinning of the crown.

More others need special pruning lilac. Without trimming flowering becomes scarce, increments and inflorescences are minor

Flower buds in lilac are located on the tops of last year's growths located at the top of the crown, so they can not be shortened. A well-developed bush can be removed part of the shoots of floral kidney escapes, leaving the strongest and well-spaced, then the remaining inflorescences will be larger. With the same purpose, it is cut into the ring all weak and growing in the crowns, rebuilding, competing shoots.

Crop the lilac in the spring, before the start of the sludge. Before tying, seeds remove the stunned blizzes, trying not to damage the shoots located nearby with the leaves on which new floral kidneys are laid.

Fifth group trimming

This group includes evergreen shrubs and sharpening forms (Rhododendrons, evergreen species of Kalina and Kizylnik, Lavirovnya, Dwarf Forms of Willow and Droka). Due to uniform growth around the perimeter of the crown, a durable beautiful bush without trimming is formed. Only patients or frozen shoots are removed on them.

Subtlety trimming

• Long intercourse branches shorten a few millimeters above the kidney directed outward. This applies to bush maples, hydrangeas, Weig-Lam, as well as to shrubs with hollow shoots (forsilation, elderly, some honeysuckle).
• The vitality and pomp flowering of very many decorative shrubs stimulates the cutting of the care, or supporting when, removing old branches, free the place of younger and strong shoots. Launched or years incorrectly trimmed shrubs can be put in order by rejuvenating trimming.
• Pay attention to the natural shape of shrubs. It is hardly possible to keep the bush for a long time small or make it grow in an unnatural way, without hurting flowering. When supporting trim, try to preserve the natural appearance of the plant, and not cut all the branches "under one comb." Start trimming from the bottom of the bush, moving up. It will save from dual work, since thinner twigs are cleaned with a whole branch.
• In most cases, the fracturing of old shoots in shrubs is a natural process and should not cause a special alarm.

To understand which interval cut the old shoots to rejuvenate the bush, you need to know the life expectancy of one escape: in spring-breathing spirits and laptic shrub -3-5; In Chubudnikov, Rosehipovnikov, Weigel, Barbaris - 5-10 years.

The shoots of tall shrubs (lilac, hawthorn) live much longer. Old branches are determined by weak side twigs with many short increases.

Decorative lianas are cut after the dissolution of the leaves late in spring or summer. Early trimming is dangerous due to strong socket. More often cut only dry and unsuccessful shoots.

Whenever, buying seedlings of new varieties of decorative shrubs, we rejoice as children, representing what a miracle will grow in our garden through some 2-3 years - almost the same as on a luxurious photo from the colorful catalog. But it takes time, and it turns out an interesting thing - it turns out that in order to see the desired miracle in his garden, it is necessary to work out to work on the creation of the "living" of the Novoselka and on the formation of its appearance. The most important point of care for trees and shrubs is pruning. It's time to tell more about what time and how the shrubs of decorative shrubs are pristed.

Crop or No Decorative Shrubs

Information on the rules of trimming decorative shrubs is a bit, unlike the segment of the fruit. To remove, sick and dead shoots, restrain the overly rapid growth of the crown, ensure the magnificent and long bloom is required painstaking and serious work on pruning. For each variety, they develop their techniques that take into account the peculiarities of the plant. Conditionally plants are divided into beautiful shrubs and decorative-deciduous bushes.

Tools for trimming decorative shrubs

For any kind of trimming, you may need a garden, suchkorez, a secator with two blades, a garden knife for trimming a one-year increase, a brush cutter for performing forming trimming and trimming of live elevations, a staircase, a garden or pasta. All tools must be sharpened and sterile. After a day after trimming, we treat sections, the diameter of which is more than 7 mm, garden wrair or wound-healing paste.

Types of trimming of decorative shrubs

All decorative shrubs require timely and proper trimming aimed at removing dead and damaged shoots, to determine the rapid growth and the formation of a beautiful crown (by haircuting and thinning), to stimulate flowering, as well as to rejuvenate old bushes.

In relation to decorative trimming shrubs, there are 3 species:

1. sanitary
2. forming
3. rejuvenating.

Sanitary trimming of decorative shrubs in spring

In sanitary trim, almost all shrubs need. Most forming needed. There are only a small row of shrubs that do not need forming trimming. They have enough annual sanitary trim every spring, at which all weak, extinct, intersecting shoots are removed.

• removal of patients, drying, branched branches, branches;
• removal of piglery and wolf shoots (raising the crown);
• cutting "Pins";
• the formation of a uniformly transmitted and ventilated crown.

Forming trimming of decorative shrubs in spring

This technique is used for shrubs that are grown in molded hedges and require constant trimming. So: if you form a fence in the spring, - delete only the growth of the previous year. If you prefer a haircut in the second half of summer, delete, respectively, the increase in this year. You may have to make spring and summer trimming - if you are dealing with fast-growing plants. (We draw your attention: we are talking about trimming shrubs already formed for hedges that have achieved the desired height and dimensions).

The forming trimming of decorative shrubs will help you maintain a plant neat and compact - in the specified sizes and forms. And remember: if one day you applied this type of trimming, it is advisable to do all the same annually.

Note: small plants can be cut with scissors or electric trimmer. For large - it is necessary to use the secret, as damaged leaves and hemps remaining from shoots will be brown and die.

Rejuvenating trimming of decorative shrubs in spring

Rejuvenating trimming for decorative crops This procedure is also very useful. The rejuvenating trimming of decorative shrubs is carried out in spring, cutting off from plants at least half of old shoots. In some cases, the branches are completely removed, but it can only be done with those cultures that are actively increasing young root shoots. Plants whose pigs are not from the root, but from the branches, cut off not at the root, but leave small hemps with a height of 15 cm.

We can learn about the need for a rejuvenating haircut appearance shoots. When they are becoming less, they grow thinner and weak - this is a signal to the fact that the tree needs rejuvenation. The gardeners also have the practice of "radical rejuvenation". Such a procedure is resorted to when the culture does not just stop giving a strong piglet, but it is generally poorly increasing even short slim shoots. In this case, the bunches are cut to the root cervix. A powerful and developed root system next season will increase a sufficiently large amount of green mass. The new branches choose the strongest specimens, and others are cut as unnecessary for several years.

Figured trimming of decorative shrubs in spring

The best samples of curious shrubs are the so-called live sculptures. To create various shapes from shrubs, it is very important to achieve that they are evenly bottom covered with leaves or cheese.

In order to perform the curly trimming of shrubs with their own hands, it is necessary to choose the right plants and to form them accordingly.

The simplest way to have a lively sculpture in the garden is to buy shrubs in the form of the sculptural form you desired. The best sculptures are obtained from such evergreen plants, like Samshet, Biryuchi, Holly, Lavirovna, Lavr Noble. However, in the middle lane of Russia, most types of evergreen plants in open soil In winter it is frozen or dying. Therefore, to create in the garden of living sculptures, only coniferous and leaf falling shrubs are suitable. For small figures, it is very good to use spirire, honeysuckle, elm squat, caticker, Barbaris, Magonia, Japanese quince, etc.

To create larger figures are quite suitable for linden mellite, hawthorn, spruce, flask, elm mellite, apple tree berry and some others. Figures, formed from evergreen plants, look very nicely, and above all the Samsit.

Decorative shrubs do not require spring trimming

Some decorative shrubs do not like trimming, as they have a low ability to regenerate. With great difficulty hesitate wounds, or their Habitus remains distorted for a long time. Such shrubs include magnolia, Gamamemis, Dogwood Blooming, Kalina, Hibiscus, Lavirovnya, Rosil Ordinary, Irga. In such plants, it is enough just to remove old branches and in no case do a strong rejuvenating trimming.

Features Trimming Decorative Shrubs