Bath ceiling insulation technology. Ceiling insulation in a bath - simple options available to everyone

The working conditions of baths (especially steam rooms) are not similar to the usual modes of operation of residential premises. The microclimate parameters of high-temperature spa zones are important not only for creating comfort, but also for extending the operation of the buildings themselves. In addition, the problem of energy saving is becoming more and more urgent every year. "What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bath?" - special attention is paid to this issue, since heat losses from upward streams of heated air and steam can be up to 30% - 35% of the heat exchange in the steam room.

In addition to the fact that it is necessary to significantly reduce energy losses, it is required to reach certain parameters for vapor barrier. At the same time, we must not forget about the special requirements for the safety and environmental friendliness of all materials used. Choosing the design of the ceiling lathing for the bath, the types of strength elements, membranes and insulation, one should proceed from the observance of three basic principles:

quick kindling;
slow cooling (comfort and heat saving);
a special microclimate characterized by the accumulation of steam (it is required to avoid its condensation).

The classical approach to the arrangement of the ceiling in the steam room provides for the sewing of the rough plane (adjacent to the load-bearing beams) with wide thick boards - "forty". A thickness of 50 mm is considered excessive. It is known from experience that such flooring begins to accumulate moisture, which does not have time to evaporate between pair sessions. As a result, the likelihood of getting a ceiling prone to condensation increases.

When equipping a room with a classic lathing made of "magpie", most often, the ceiling of the bath is insulated with mineral wool, expanded clay or other proven insulation from above - from the side of the roof.

The modern trend is associated with the use of two types of insulation, one of which is reflective, and the second plays the role of the main one. The better to insulate the ceiling of the bath in order to realize the functions of infrared reflection and thermal break will be discussed in the following sections of the article.

The role of foil-clad materials and vapor barrier films

There are no ideal heaters for baths. It is impossible to realize in equal measure the reflection of heat rays, resistance to heat transfer and vapor barrier with one material. Aluminum foil and foil-coated sandwiches such as foil-insol allow you to select the optimal combination of materials for the equipment of baths of any design.

For example, foil insulation makes it possible to install non-absorbent mineral wool, as it is an ideal vapor barrier.

The reflective layer is located just behind the decorative headliner. If the main heat-shielding layer is placed further, then between it and the reflector it is necessary to provide an air gap of at least 2 - 3 cm.

It is advisable to limit the use of polyethylene films to waterproofing in the under-roofing areas. Vapor barrier without condensation is much better provided by foil sandwiches and membrane materials with special microvilli.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral (aka basalt) wool is used more often than other materials as the main insulating layer. For many specialists involved in the construction of baths, the question "how to insulate the ceiling in the bath" has long been resolved in her favor. The main advantage of stone wool over all other insulating materials is high heat resistance and fire safety. Unlike glass wool, the structure of the fibers based on molten basalt is not harmful to the respiratory system. However, the insulation of the ceiling in the bathhouse with mineral wool also has serious limitations. This is the high hygroscopicity of the material and the presence of hydrophobic impregnations designed to resist moisture penetration. Impregnations are made on the basis of waxy fusible compounds, which are prone to unwanted gas emission when heated above 70 ° C - 80 ° C.

Insulated ceiling with mineral wool

Not all mineral wool is suitable for arranging baths. Use only grades without impregnation with a direct indication of the intended use in spa areas: for example, "ISOVER Sauna" or "ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts". The first material is of roll type, the second is made in the form of slabs. Both are lined on one side with a vapor barrier based on aluminum foil. The ceiling of the bath should be insulated with mineral wool while providing double-sided hydro and / or vapor barrier. When installing foil or other type of protective layers, it is necessary to leave an air heat-insulating gap between the wool and the membrane.

Use of expanded polystyrene

In a number of sources, one can find statements about the inadmissibility of using foams (PS) and extruded polystyrene foams (EPS) for equipping baths and saunas due to the release of harmful substances by these materials when heated. Others argue that the thermal destruction of this insulation begins at 160 ° C, and the under-ceiling space of a Russian bath can only warm up to 100 ° C - 110 ° C. And therefore, they say, restrictions on lining a steam room with foam or EPS do not make sense.

Let's dot the "i" s in this question. The point is that neither the first nor the second position is fully justified. Surface emission of styrene can begin even before thermal degradation (in the range 90 ° C - 130 ° C).

Therefore, the material cannot be used as an inner layer of insulation that is in direct contact with the decorative lining of the ceiling in the steam room. But provided that reflective two- and three-layer foil materials are used, it is quite possible to place a heat-shielding layer made of PSP or EPSP behind them, since the temperature on the back surface of the sandwich does not exceed 50 ° C.

Expanded polystyrene for the ceiling of the bath is possible only with a reflective multilayer screen

It is advisable to use expanded polystyrene to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands, working alone. It is especially convenient to use EPSP boards if it is necessary to mount a layer of insulation on the lower surface of the rough ceiling. It is extremely difficult to carry out such work with loose materials such as mineral wool without helpers.

Expanded clay

Insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay is used in baths with under-roof rooms (attics, attics). The properties of expanded clay are in many ways similar to those of mineral wool. The same pluses: environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures ... and the same minus: the material absorbs moisture too well. From below it must be protected from steam penetration, and from above from the effects of atmospheric and condensation moisture.

In addition, the fired pellets of this heat insulator have a much lower resistance to heat transfer than mineral wool. For this reason, the required thickness of the effective embankment is at least 30 cm.

The option is suitable for large steam rooms. Since the floor beams above the spacious rooms have a significant vertical section, deep natural niches are formed for filling the required amount of expanded clay.

Self-growing foam concrete and other DIY insulation

Ceiling insulation with clay with sawdust, homemade aerated concrete, moss and other exotic materials is advisable if you have access to these relatively cheap or free thermal insulators.

If during the construction process you have a surplus of basic rough materials (for example, cement), then some of them can be used to equip a heat-insulated ceiling in a steam room. The technology of self-growing aerated concrete is based on the interaction of three main components: cement, water and a special gas-forming powder. In addition to the listed materials, density-reducing components such as sawdust and straw can be added to the mixture.

The main advantages of the technology in comparison with expanded clay backfills are lower thermal conductivity and greater moisture resistance. It is enough to fill the resulting cellular material with a layer of 10 - 12 cm. Expansion under the influence of gas-forming additives, in addition to heat-saving properties, helps to obtain a continuous surface without cracks and gaps. In addition, waterproofing is not required with this option.

If you have your own carpentry production, and the roofing area of the bath allows you to fill in large layers, then you can implement insulation of the ceiling with sawdust, combining them with sand, clay and some other building and natural materials. Clay has good steam and waterproofing properties. Therefore, before backfilling the sawdust, a clay layer is first made about 2 cm thick. Then the sawdust is backfilled with a layer of about 10-15 cm in height. On top of the sawdust, sand, dry earth or moss is laid in a mixture with needles with a layer of about 15 cm. Mixtures of sawdust with clay are also used as masses that have both heat-saving and waterproofing properties.

October 1, 2016
Specialization: master for interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

If you need to insulate the ceiling in a bath, then there are at least two ways for this - internal and external. But the external method is possible only if there is an attic in the room, which is not often the case. I suggest that you understand both methods, learn about the materials for such isolation and watch the video in this article.

Outer: 1 way

What are the ceilings

So, if there is an attic above the bath, then you can insulate it from the outside, and for this there are many materials that transmit heat very weakly, but some of them are better, while others are worse:

be that as it may, but you cannot do without such isolation - according to the laws of physics, warm air rises, and it is quite natural that the ceiling is the most vulnerable zone for its leakage. In addition, the correct selection of material will ensure the safety of the overlap for many years;
there are two main types of such structures - these are buildings with and without an attic. The presence of an attic significantly expands your possibilities when deciding which insulation to choose;
an attic in a building assumes a reinforced structure, therefore, the instruction allows you to lay insulation in several layers, and it can be laid during the construction of a building;
in addition, the attic space is already an insulator in itself, since it is a reservoir of air;
no matter what material the walls will be built from, the ceiling structures of the steam rooms are the same - they are made of wood;
here, in addition to planking boards, wood, chipboard, OSB and moisture-resistant plywood are also used.

Than to fall asleep

Modern technologies have stepped far forward, and the construction market offers a variety of insulation for a bath on the ceiling, which is easy and simple to install. This could be:

mineral wool,
Styrofoam,
extruded polystyrene foam,
penoizol, etc.

They are simply laid on the ceiling in a dense layer so that there are no gaps anywhere. But if natural ingredients are used, you need to take into account the compatibility of the components, the thickness of the layer and their weight, that is, the ability of the structure to withstand it.

If you follow the old-fashioned methods, you can insulate the ceiling in the attic with earth and clay mixed with straw, sawdust or large chips, or you can even cover it with dry oak leaves.

This option is good because it is practically free. Therefore, based on the state of your budget, you can choose exactly this, besides, the insulation will turn out to be pretty good.

One of the cheapest materials is expanded clay, and if you are looking for how and how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, then you can use this particular material. It is covered with a thick layer.

However, there is one important condition here - it must be dry, since moisture is a good conductor.. Therefore, it is possible to fill in expanded clay only after installing the roof and laying the roofing material.... On the inside of the room there should be natural wood sheathing, which will not allow even a small fraction to wake up.

To protect the material from moisture that can penetrate the boards, before insulating the ceiling, you need to install a shut-off waterproofing. To do this, you can use:

dense polyethylene,
roofing material, kraft paper in several layers,
or even cardboard pre-impregnated with linseed oil.

The strips of this cutoff overlap with a margin of 10-15 cm for density, and then they are fixed with any staples.

On the cutoff, you fall asleep or lay the material you need, but if you ask yourself which insulation is better, then we can say that this is clay, which is applied in several layers. Clay is mixed with river sand, straw or sawdust, diluted with water and placed in two layers of 10-12 cm.

In this case, you need to wait until the bottom layer dries to such an extent that you can walk on it.... When dry, cracks are necessarily formed on the clay, which are sealed with a more rare solution, allowed to dry out and covered with expanded clay on top.

Note. If you do not use clay coating, then you will have to increase the expanded clay layer by 3-4 times.

Internal: 2 way

Now let's figure out how to properly insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside. To do this, you first need to mount a crate of wooden boards, the width of which will depend on the intended insulation. Most likely, you will sheathe the ceiling with wooden clapboard, so set the lathing step according to the length of the panels, but usually it is 50-60 cm.

In this case, it is difficult to say what is better to insulate the ceiling from the inside - with mineral wool or foam. But the thermal conductivity of the foam is definitely lower than that of any type of mineral wool.

When laying mineral wool, you need to cut pieces 3-4 cm longer than the width of the lathing step, and you can fix it with nails or self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to fix the polystyrene - it is simply cut exactly to the desired width and inserted between the profiles of the crate, and all the remaining slots are blown out with polyurethane foam.

Before hemming the ceiling with wooden clapboard, you need to provide waterproofing for the insulation, and this is usually done in two layers:

the first layer is dense construction polyethylene, which is very easy to nail down with a stapler. You need to work here carefully so as not to tear the material;
and the second layer is foil, which is also attached with a stapler.

If you have foil tape, then I recommend that you glue the boards on the crate with it so that moisture does not get on them through the lining.

Note. Foil serves not so much for waterproofing as for thermal reflection. The fact is that it has the property of reflecting infrared radiation, therefore, the power of the insulating layer will increase significantly. The foil can also be used for external insulation, simply by placing front paneling on the floor.

Conclusion

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath is of interest to lovers of steam, and how to keep the steam and temperature in the steam room so that the heat does not go through the walls and ceiling, we will find out below. In the meantime, let's speculate about the physics of heat.

There is such a thing as heat transfer... A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with the environment; Although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is achieved - the law of thermodynamics.

Coffee will not cool down below room temperature. How to do it quickly? Speed up heat transfer! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And in the very process of pouring, the liquid directly contacts the air and gives it heat energy.

Convection- heat transfer due to the movement of liquid or gas. When bathing in a bath, you pour water on hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the bath.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? A significant drop in temperature will not occur, a ladle of water will not be able to take heat away from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a higher density than dry steam, which will occupy the upper position (which is why it is hot on the upper shelf), the longer the air will cool down, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

Radiant warmth, emitted in the form of infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods, since no medium is needed to transfer heat between two separate objects.

Ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is thermos... In fact, it is a bottle in a bottle, between which the space is divided by vacuum and, reflecting the radiant waves, a silver screen - a mirror.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the plug. In the case of placing a bath, this is ceiling and walls... Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made, the ability to retain heat in the bath.

It is necessary to create a barrier against heat loss with the help of thermal insulation, as in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there is vapor barrier films... There are two known methods of ceiling insulation: from inside the bath and outside... The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or walls the bath is insulated from.

The best way to insulate the ceiling of a bath is external insulation from the attic side. Here are the pros:

There is no loss of space in the premises of the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
Large selection of insulating materials;
Environmental safety and moisture resistance requirements are not as strict as inside the bath;
Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay a vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath outside?

The options are countless. If the floor of the attic is made of OSP boards, then they are laid on vapor barrier film, and from above they insulate the ceiling of the bath basalt wool... They are laid in two layers to overlap the joints, then they are covered with a vapor barrier film on top, lumber scraps are put on it and that's it, if the attic is not used.

The old way is even simpler: insulation of the ceiling with sawdust and clay... Our ancestors added clay to prevent mice from settling in sawdust.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath expanded clay do this: put a reinforced plastic film on the substrate, then pour expanded clay on top. In general, they always tried to make do with local materials for insulation, slag was also poured in the attics, sifted through a coarse mesh and obtained an excellent insulating material. But now they often make floors and use the attic space for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

A special requirement for the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged as follows: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs from a 20 x 100 or 40 x 100 mm edged board are attached, insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate mineral wool "Eco", then they sew up chipboard, plywood, OSP from above - they make the floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. It is not easy to choose insulation for the ceiling in the bath, which is better suited to the internal, and which to the external installation. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also technical characteristics of the material... Not the least role is played by the flammability class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

Inside, the bath is insulated if it is made of a heat-conducting material: brick, concrete slabs, thin boards. Warming the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool with your own hands can be done by someone who knows how to use the building level and has the skills to work. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, and a crate is made of timber. First, the timber is screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. They make racks with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same structure is made along the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for arranging ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the insulating box of the chimney.

Below we will see how to do this. The transverse dimensions of the timber depend on the type of heat-insulating material laid between them. Minvata is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell with air, which fills the pores. Fasten between the slats as shown. Choose environmentally friendly materials.

Then additional insulation of the ceiling of the bath with foil, which has a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the specular part reflects radiant energy, trapping heat. They begin to fasten the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with paper clips to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with an adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose the right quality material. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for insulating a bath from the inside. Follow the rules for arranging chimneys. 90% of stove bath fires occur due to improper cutting of the chimney passage through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.

Isolation of the budget option is considered. There are other materials, more expensive, but effective in their thermal insulation qualities, since they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bath with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a bath with mineral wool, make exactly the same crate for the panels if the walls are curved.

Panel dimensions: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as a standard roll insulation. Wooden surfaces in the bath, before installing the panels, it is recommended to soak antiseptic solution.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have a tongue and groove connection. In the Scandinavian countries, these plates are used for warming saunas, including with the use of steam. A special sealing foam seals the joints, the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:

1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.

2. Before installing the first board, cut the spike along the entire length of the board.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and is applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied at the docking site.

4. The panel is tightly pressed against the gasket, holes are drilled and the umbrellas are hammered in the fastening points. Fasteners, tape, sealant - everything is included. Ask sellers.

5. The panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel edges prior to installation.

6. Then the panels are fixed to the ceiling beams, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all the joints are additionally glued with tape.

7. Below, if you intend to make a floor screed, remove from the panel the top layer 10-15 cm from the floor along the entire perimeter and make waterproofing in places of the plinth, where the wall joins the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, glue on the waterproofing tape and reapply the paste. Then they make a crate under the clapboard sheathing.

8. Finishing with clapboard.

Ceiling insulation provides for cutting under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. This is what the factory version of the box looks like.

The thermodynamic processes occurring in the bath during heating and the adoption of procedures should remain inside the system (steam room) as long as possible, and this is possible only with proper thermal insulation of the ceiling, walls, section of the ceiling in place of the pipe, doors.

Useful video

The benefits from the correct selection of materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - the speed of heating the bath, fuel economy, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience during the bath procedures. Be careful. Do not make a mistake in the choice of materials, contact those who perform these works in a comprehensive manner: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation of ventilation systems, and other works.

Any bathhouse needs high-quality insulation of the ceiling, since warm air easily leaves the room if there are no obstacles in front of it. Fortunately, today in stores you can find a variety of heaters at different prices - choosing the best option is not difficult.

Today we will take a closer look at the process of warming the ceiling in a bath.

Peculiarities

Not only residential buildings, but also baths need good insulation. If we neglect the installation of thermal insulation material, a comfortable temperature will not be maintained in such a structure. Warm air, so necessary in a bath, will simply leave the room. However, the problem of warm air escaping is not the main one. Also, without insulation on the ceiling, destructive condensation will accumulate in the bath. Because of it, unpleasant drops will drip onto people from above, which can be very annoying.

Moisture escaping along with the heat will negatively affect the ceiling. Under the influence of such external factors, structures are at risk of rotting and deforming. Further renovation of the bath will require free time and money.

Today, there are a large number of manufacturers on the market that produce high-quality thermal insulation materials. Thanks to this, every consumer will be able to choose the right insulation.

It is quite possible to carry out the insulation of the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. You do not need to be an experienced craftsman or have the appropriate education for this. The main thing in such a matter is to strictly adhere to the instructions and use only high-quality materials.

To insulate the ceiling in a bath, you need to use materials that have the following important characteristics:

they must be fire resistant and not support a flame;
the insulation must be environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health;
the material must be resistant to moisture and moisture, which are inevitable in a bath.

Fortunately, in modern retail outlets, it is quite easy to find materials that meet all of these requirements. The bath may have a ceiling with or without an attic space. In both cases, the building will need reliable insulation. The only difference is that in the absence of an attic space, you will not have many ways to install thermal insulation material.

It is also worth considering another important feature - if your bathhouse is built of wood, it will need literally perfect roof insulation. Making mistakes in this case is fatal. This can lead to decay and deformation of floor structures.

Of course, you can coat the tree with special moisture-proof and anti-fungal impregnations to extend the life of the material and to hedge against improper installation of the insulation. However, such remedies are not omnipotent. Even if you apply them to ceiling structures, under the constant action of steam they will fail and the bath will have to be repaired.

Experts say that if you follow all the technologies for installing heat-insulating materials, you can avoid serious mistakes. The main thing is not to neglect any of the necessary stages of work. In this case, the result will not disappoint you.

Material selection criteria

A suitable insulation for a Russian bath must be chosen according to the following important criteria:

Possibility of combining with other building materials. The thermal insulation coating must be combined with other materials without affecting their specific qualities in any way.
Unaffected by the accumulation of condensation. In no case should the insulating material accumulate excess moisture in its structure - this will certainly negatively affect the ceiling structure, especially if it is made of wood.
Minimal moisture absorption. When choosing a heater, pay attention to the fact that it has a minimum water absorption value
Quality and safety certificates. When buying insulation for a cold roof in a bath, it is necessary to demand from the seller all the necessary quality certificates. The material must meet sanitary and hygienic and fire safety requirements.

If the material you have chosen for the thermal insulation of the bath fits all of the above criteria, then inside the steam room and dressing room it will be not only warm and comfortable, but also safe.

Materials (edit)

Today the market is replete with thermal insulation materials. They are made from different raw materials and have their own distinctive qualities. Let's take a closer look at the most popular and demanded heaters that are in demand by most homeowners.

Mineral wool

Most often, people choose good old mineral wool as a heater for a bath. Despite the fact that there are many good alternatives to this material on the market, many users continue to buy it.

This insulation is sold in rolls, plates and cylinders. For insulation of the roof and ceiling, roll materials or slabs are most often chosen.... They fit quickly and easily. Mineral wool in cylinders is usually used to insulate pipeline bases.

Let's get acquainted with the main advantages of mineral wool that make it in demand:

This material is distinguished by high rates of thermal insulation, which is especially important for a bath. It can be installed in almost any environment. However, it should be borne in mind that other insulators will be required during its installation.
Mineral wool is a waterproof material. High-quality glass and basalt wool promotes steam transmission and does not absorb excess moisture. Thanks to this quality, mineral wool can be safely used to protect structures from the appearance of dampness.
Mineral wool is characterized by good air exchange. Such insulation will promote air circulation. The base will "breathe" and will last much longer.

Also, this heat-insulating material boasts good soundproofing qualities. Being in a bath, insulated with such a coating, you will not be distracted by extraneous sounds coming from the street.
Minvata is not afraid of aggressive chemicals. It is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.
Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material, which is very important for a bath. Moreover, when in contact with fire, this insulation does not emit corrosive smoke.
This material has a long service life. High-quality mineral wool can last from 25 to 50 years.
Many consumers choose mineral wool because it is safe from an environmental point of view.

However, this material also has some disadvantages:

The qualities of mineral wool are significantly affected if it absorbs too much water. Under the influence of such a factor, this material may not act as efficiently.
Another disadvantage of mineral wool is considered to be a rather high level of dusting. Such insulation contains very brittle fibers, and their fragments are sharp and thin. If they get on the skin, they cause severe itching and irritation. You can work with such insulation only in special protective clothing and glasses.

There are several types of mineral wool:

stone (or basalt);
slag;
glass wool.

Budget glass wool is more affordable. It has a special fibrous structure and a yellowish tint. Such material is made from cullet, borax, sand, soda, limestone and dolomite.

Glass wool has good thermal properties. In addition, it tolerates strong vibrations without problems. When compressed, glass wool reduces its volume by almost 6 times. Glass wool is the softest type of insulation of all types of mineral wool.

Not so long ago, glass wool in slabs appeared on sale, which is often used to insulate facade bases. Such material is more durable and reliable. but it should be borne in mind that glass wool is not only the softest, but also the most prickly insulation... You need to work with it very carefully. For this special protective clothing must be worn.

Basalt wool is very popular among craftsmen, as it is durable and keeps its shape.

A similar insulation can be made from:

diabase;
basalt;
gabbro.

These components are also added components such as dolomite and limestone.

Stone wool is good because it can withstand severe mechanical stress. In addition, this material does not burn and does not absorb moisture, which are decisive characteristics for a bath.

Basalt wool is often produced with a special backing made of foil or fiberglass. To make the material more durable and reliable, it is additionally stitched with special glass threads. Wire is sometimes used instead.

This material is used a little less often than others, as it absorbs moisture. For this reason, it is better not to use slag wool for insulating a bath ceiling - it will quickly fail and will require replacement. In addition, this material is not designed for any kind of stress.

Ecowool

And now let's consider what are the disadvantages of ecowool insulation:

Over time, the thermal insulation capacity of ecowool decreases, especially if it is located in a room with a high moisture content.
To install ecowool, you need to use special expensive equipment, which, as a rule, only professional teams have.
It will not be possible to install ecowool on your own, not only because of the requirements for the equipment, but also because of the complexity and specificity of the work. They should be entrusted to professionals.

A lot of dust remains from ecowool during the installation process. If you use the wet version of the installation, then it will dry out for a long time.
Ecowool cannot boast of a sufficient level of rigidity.

In no case should this insulation be installed in places close to open sources of combustion. Being near the flame, the ecowool begins to smolder gradually.

Penoplex

Its main advantages are:

high indicators of hydrophobicity;
light weight, which makes it cheap to transport and easy enough to install;
good strength characteristics;
composition with anti-corrosion components;
the ability to install penoplex in almost any conditions;
does not cause allergies;
does not attract insects and rodents.

Of course, the penplex, like the rest of the heaters, there are weaknesses, which include:

burning susceptibility;
fear of contact with solvents (when interacting with them, penoplex dissolves);
high price.

There is foam and air inside the structure of this insulation. Due to this feature, this material does not corrode, deteriorate from time to time and is not afraid of interaction with moisture.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a heat-resistant material. It is not afraid of fire and does not melt at high temperatures.
Such insulation is lightweight, therefore it does not exert stress on the base.
Not afraid of pests.
Versatile in application.

It should be borne in mind that working with such material is not too easy. When laying expanded clay for insulation of the ceiling in a bath, it is very important to provide the base with additional vapor and waterproofing.

Clay

The ceiling in the bath can be insulated with clay. But do not think that this process will be very simple and affordable. It is not recommended to lay this material in its pure form.

It has long been combined with:

sawdust;
ground straw;
tree bark;
sand;
expanded clay.

Most often, clay is combined with straw, sawdust and sand. It is advisable to use expanded clay only if you are laying the clay mixture in layers.

Sawdust

If you decide to insulate the ceiling in the bath with sawdust, then you should take into account that such a material is the most fire hazardous. In this case, a fire retardant will not help. In addition, sawdust is rather dirty, and in the event of a draft, they will gradually scatter throughout the bath.

However, this material is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It does not cause allergies or similar reactions. Most often, sawdust for insulation is combined with clay or cement. Sometimes sawdust is covered with earth from above.

Internal and external works

It is permissible to insulate a bath both inside and outside. The second installation option should be addressed if there is no attic in the building. In this case, it is best to use insulation in the form of flooring. Sewn structures make the ceiling more reliable and strong.

In this case, the boards are attached to the beams from the inside of the room, as well as from the attic side. In this case, multi-layer thermal insulation materials must be placed between the decks. If you have a solid two-story bathhouse (attic), then laying a multi-layer insulation starts from the side of the lower floor.

First, a vapor barrier is mounted, followed by a heater, a waterproofing material and a floor covering of the second floor.

Insulation scheme

To determine the tactics of carrying out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to find out what the ceiling base itself is - hemmed or flat. In the case of a hemmed base, a board is hemmed onto the installed support beams (at the bottom). In this case, the bars are closed from the inside and left only in the attic area.

If the overlapping method is flat, then the board is fixed on top of the bars. Thus, flooring is created in the attic. At the same time, the bars themselves remain on the territory of the steam room.

If thermal insulation is carried out from the inside of the false ceiling, then the scheme of work will be as follows:

first, on the floorboards, you need to fix a waterproofing film with perforation, which can pass steam;
then a frame / lathing is formed from wooden bars, taking into account the step under the insulation mats;
the next in the installation is the insulation (it must be laid out between the bars);
followed by a waterproofing material, but in the bath it is recommended to use it not with a film, but with a foil cloth;
further, according to the scheme, there is a rail that needs to be sewn over the beams.

If we are talking about insulating the floor ceiling inside, then the layout of the materials will be as follows:

first, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards located on the side of the attic;
then insulation is laid on it (if it is mineral wool, then the thickness of its layer should be about 200-250 mm;
followed by a layer of vapor barrier;
at the end, the floor in the attic is covered with boards.

How to insulate correctly?

When you have studied the insulation scheme and the type of ceiling construction, you can proceed directly to finishing it with mineral wool, foam, clay or other materials. So that the result does not disappoint you, and the bath becomes warm and comfortable, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions when installing the insulation. To begin with, it is worth considering in detail the guidance on insulating a floor ceiling.

The finishing of such a base is carried out from the outside.

Stages of work:

First, you need to lay a vapor barrier on the flooring. It can be secured with a construction stapler or nails.
On top of the vapor barrier film, you need to put the insulation itself. If you use bulk material, such as expanded clay or sawdust with clay, then a rim must be nailed around the perimeter of the base, which will prevent the insulation from spilling out.
The resulting "pie", consisting of several layers, must be covered with a waterproofing material.
As a rule, the insulation is pressed against the boards, which have been installed in increments of 40-50 cm.

Now you should consider how to insulate a false ceiling:

First, a vapor barrier material is nailed onto the beams on the ceiling. It is recommended to use canvases in which one of the sides is foil. The vapor barrier must be installed with a slight overlap of 10 cm (a similar approach must be made to the walls).
Next, you need to nail a lining or edged board to the beams. These materials should be pre-treated with antiseptic agents so that they do not rot.

To make the ceiling stronger and more reliable, it is recommended to use tongue-and-groove lumber, which has a groove and a ridge.

Further, from the side of the attic in the space between the beams, you need to put insulation. Please note that the material must be laid correctly in order to create a dense layer without crevices and gaps.
Make sure that the height of the thermal insulation material reaches the top of the beams by 3-5 cm. This will create the necessary space for ventilation.
Further, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film. It must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm or more.
Finally, the flooring should be made of boards.

If your ceiling in the bath is panel and consists of separate shields made of boards and bars, then you will have to act differently:

On 2 beams located in parallel, you need to nail boards with a length of 60 cm. Before that, it is very important to treat the tree with antiseptic compounds.
On all sides, the board should protrude 5 cm. During the joining, the resulting gaps will be closed with insulation.
Further, on the inside of the panel, you need to fix the vapor barrier material.
The resulting structures must be placed on a crate, fixed at the bottom of the floor beams.
Insulation resistant to moisture must be installed in the joints of the panels.
At the final stage, you need to lay a plastic wrap - it will protect the finish of the attic floor. Lining can be stuffed onto the lathing at the bottom of the ceiling.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling in the bath on your own, then you should take into account that you need to be especially careful about the steam room. If there are even the slightest flaws in the ceiling decoration, then the heat will surely leave the room.

When working with vapor barrier films or foil, you should be extremely careful. These materials can be accidentally torn apart, which will negatively affect their quality characteristics.

If you want to correctly lay the material, then it is better to do this a little below the walls so that you have free space for filling bulk materials or laying the same mineral wool. If it is not possible to do this, small sides should be stuffed around the perimeter of the ceiling under the roof.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling with a mixture of clay and sawdust, then you need to take into account that when using a bath in the warm season, the optimal layer thickness can be 50 mm. If you are going to bathe in it in winter, then it is better to put insulation with a layer of 150 mm.

If the floor is built of logs, then from the side of the bath you need to construct a crate. In this case, the logs must be covered with a vapor barrier, covered with a 20 cm layer of sand on top and then insulated according to the usual scheme.

If we are talking about cranial plates, then they can be fixed on the top of the logs.

If you do not want to spend money on the purchase and installation of vapor and waterproofing of the ceiling, then you should use a high-tech insulation, which is made on the basis of mineral wool and has a foil layer. With such a coating, laying of steam and waterproofing is not necessary.

Do not use material such as polystyrene to insulate the ceiling in the bath. despite its cheapness. When heated, it releases toxic substances that have a negative effect on human health.

Do not skimp on thermal insulation materials and do not look for too cheap items, unless, of course, the ceiling is insulated with clay or sawdust. A suspiciously low price may indicate that the quality of the insulation is not the best.

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then, most likely, you wondered: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room has often encountered such a phenomenon as condensation. It forms when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It does not matter whether the steam room is built into the room or it is a free-standing structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and how much. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

Wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a "perfect" microclimate in the steam room.

To make the wood last longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - fire retardants). They increase stamina. This safety measure is justified, as the temperature in the steam room reaches 100 ° C. However, chemical mold coatings at high temperatures will give off toxic fumes.

The main "ally" of wood flooring is insulation, which should keep hot steam inside the room and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and extends the service life.

Correct insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies the observance of the following points:

Steam must accumulate and be stored indoors.
The inside of the roof must be protected from high humidity.
It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensation both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the clapboard in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from the hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products will definitely not work. The best way is to finish with several layers:

The first thing to do is to use an insulating material that prevents water from entering.
Lay a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
The third level is aluminum foil.

Such "layering" keeps heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, therefore heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

fibers;
plates;
blocks;
wall slabs;
backfill.

And depending on the composition, they are distinguished:

Organic, such as ecowool.
Inorganic - mineral wool.
Expanded polystyrene.
Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath

A quality insulation material should be:

heat-resistant so that no fire occurs;
environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful vapors);
"Breathe" so that water does not collect and condensation does not accumulate;
resistant to moisture.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally, the options for buildings from logs and from panels are similar. They have:

isolation from steam;
insulation;
filing from boards;
beams
sheathing.

There is a vapor barrier on the wall and ceiling, then a timber, then a heater. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. Overruns of materials in this case are inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensation. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to warm up a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-processing oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

smear the entire lining with a layer of clay up to two centimeters to reduce heat loss;
sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensation).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a vapor pocket up to the level of the upper edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture from entering in the form of condensate along the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well-waterproofed ceiling and a volumetric brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, on top of aerated concrete walls, put foam glass insulation with plates 50 mm thick, and then plaster and make decorative wood sheathing.

Deck ceiling

He can not be seen as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method was previously considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop up everything they needed for construction themselves. This is the most expensive option now.

There are several installation options.

Along the crowns of a log house, if the area of the room is small (length is not more than 2.5 m). As an overlap, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, an even more economical method is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
There is an interesting option for overlapping with unedged sanded boards. They are placed in 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
On the floor beams. With this option, the area of the room can be larger. The accent on the beams will add flavor and look great.
On the supporting frame made of strips. Suitable for small rooms and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (the foil surface is down).
Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can cover the surface with expanded clay or cover with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
The work ends with the laying of a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing material or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have a bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or shields of grooved boards are evenly laid on them. Such a structure is insulated with a fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

The HIP is taken and placed on the beams from the side of the roof. This is done with an overlap.
Boards or plywood sheets are placed on the waterproofing.
Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the local climate). All joints must be closed with the next sheet.
We attach a vapor barrier from the bottom of the beams.
Then we attach wood slats.
At the last stage, the lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will receive additional storage space - an attic or attic.

Panel ceiling

It is difficult to do it yourself. To begin with, a special structure is made from panels. Then it must be fixed on top of the cross beams or on the top of the wall. How is the installation:

Planks are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
Then we attach narrow boards to the inner side of the PP, they will be bumpers.
The next step is to lay the PIP.
We put ecowool (or any other) in the resulting space of the panels.
Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
The final stage will be the installation of the boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people are using the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

basalt wool;
expanded clay;
penoizol;
ecowool and others.

You can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and can ignite. A good protective suit is shown for working with fiberglass.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this score, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

this is a Russian bath or sauna;
what material the bathhouse is built from,
which stove is worth.

How to insulate outside

To keep the steam inside and not escape outside, you need to achieve the "thermos" effect. Insulation should be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need insulation for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

waterproofing film;
expanded clay;
mineral wool or others.

Builders create a "multi-layer cake" out of these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. Put the PIP on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern types of insulation:

expanded clay;
mineral wool;
ecowool;
expanded polypropylene;
penoizol;
growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure resembling ordinary cotton wool in appearance. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

long service time;
good hygroscopicity (perfectly absorbs water);
overheat resistant (fireproof).

The thickness of the wool is from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if you put it on the PIP. To work with her you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in a bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. It is economical because it requires little fuel to heat the room. This insulation is presented:

mineral wool with aluminum foil (produced in rolls and plates);
polymeric cloth based on foil (has a small thickness, is produced in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

reflect IR rays;
protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation maintains high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the entire steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), as in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath, it is imperative to do proper ventilation.

Expanded clay

In appearance it resembles small clay stones with pores. Absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak point. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

environmentally friendly product, without foreign toxic impurities;
not flammable;
has a long service life;
bacteria and fungi do not form in it;
cheap product;
it's easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a liquid foam, it is referred to as heat-insulating materials. It fills in all areas (even hard-to-reach ones). It has many advantages:

cheapness;
excellent quality (does not expand when it dries up);
not flammable;
serves for a long time;
mold and mildew do not form on it.

Cement and sawdust

This method of warming is characterized as "old-fashioned". To make a ready-made mixture, you need 10 parts of sawdust, one part of lime, and one part of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

difficult to cook;
thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
no protection against mold;
when dry, cracks appear that need to be lubricated.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Quite an effective way to keep warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. It contains substances that improve its properties: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

resistant to fire;
resists the development of bacteria;
prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also lightweight and spreads over the entire area, filling the voids. Its main disadvantage is moisture absorption. This reduces thermal insulation.

Features of insulation products

Manufacturers offer a variety of membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that prevents heat from escaping. There are the following types with a foil layer:

polypropylene;
kraft paper;
roofing material;
membrane;
foil;
coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide variety of waterproofing products are available in specialized store areas - foil-coated kraft paper, construction membrane and other products. Although you can save money and purchase ordinary plastic wrap or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused in a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice of experienced builders. For example, it is recommended to use expanded clay with concrete floors.

No special preparation is required. For convenience, you can attach slats from a bar to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check if the expanded clay is evenly distributed. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay onto the entire surface (30 cm thick). A regular garden rake will help to distribute the granules evenly. If the attic space will be used in the future and a floor is provided, then expanded clay is laid at the level.

If the entire backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is fine. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are spread over the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-follow method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But due to its low cost, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - the accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and another 1 additional layer for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, the process will take place in several steps:

an unedged board (5 cm) is taken and attached to the bottom of the beams;
to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
grooved aspen slats are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
we lay a vapor barrier material outside the roof;
on top of the laid mixture, distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
then we lay the polypropylene film;
we put boards on top of the resulting structure, this is the future floor of the attic.

If done correctly, you should end up with a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

Dry method of insulation

Specialists Yu.P. Sosnin and Bukharkin E.N. in their book they suggest the following method:

we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we treat them with linseed oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
spread the film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, or better, a foil coating with reinforcement);
the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and following the technological process, then:

heat losses will significantly decrease (up to 35%);
there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
less firewood will be required;
the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive aspects, there are others:

you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
you will select all the materials that suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.