After I got a self-made agricultural winch, which is used for plowing the garden, the question became: should I buy a plow or make it myself? Walking through the shops and bazaar of Smolensk, you get a strange feeling that the plows produced by the industry for walk-behind tractors are a sad sight.

And these industrial creations are suitable only for “picking” and not for plowing the land, and even with the rotation of the layer, and regarding the depth and width of plowing, we can conclude that for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm, not one of the proposed ones is suitable in the plow trade. Either our manufacturers are saving money, or the power of the most popular walk-behind tractors is not enough to work with a normal plow with a working width of 30 cm. When planting potatoes, you shouldn’t plow one furrow three times. And the price wants to leave the best - under 2 thousand. rubles (for a couple of pieces of iron from a scrap metal collection point).

The next step to find something useful is to search the Internet. To my surprise, there are 3-4 original descriptions with drawings floating in the vastness of the Russian-language network (this fact surprises me very much). The next step is to look at what those around you are using. It was not possible to buy a suitable plow; the decision was made to make a plow with our own hands. Based on the fact that the plow was supposed to be used for planting potatoes with a winch for plowing, the following requirements are imposed on it:

1. Plowing width – up to 30 cm.

2. Plowing depth -10-20cm.

3. The plow must hold the furrow itself, without digging in or jumping out of the furrow. The geometry of the plow must ensure movement with the specified parameters without the help of a plowman.

4. Possibility of adjusting the depth and width of plowing.

5. Minimum weight and sufficient strength.

My uncle has been using his homemade motorized winch for plowing for more than 10 years and has tried several options. For the last few years, he has settled on an option optimized for a homemade motorized winch for the garden, namely for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm. There is also a homemade hiller for a motorized winch and a homemade potato digger, all this can be viewed on the corresponding pages of the site.

Plow drawing

Field board drawing.

The blade is bent according to this template until the two profiles coincide and then welded at an angle.

Using a drawing of a homemade plow you need to thick paper draw a template for the plow pattern, and then transfer the picture to the metal and cut out the blank with a grinder. Personally, I used stainless steel material with a thickness of 1.8 mm. Many often use a sheet of 2-3 mm. The cutting part of the plow is reinforced with a strip of thicker metal. Someone suggests using a disk from a circular machine for these purposes, or a spring from a “Muscovite”. From personal experience, if you plow a summer cottage plot for a family of 4 people in the spring and autumn, cultivating six acres, there is no point in chasing super-strength. It is more profitable to make a plow that is light but strong enough for its tasks. It’s better to repair or replace something after 10 years, and only if necessary, than to carry around the heavy structure of a homemade plow for 10 years. Excess weight to nothing.

This is what the plowing width adjustment system looks like. By rearranging the large wheel, you can change the plowing width within significant limits. When I plant potatoes, I set the grip to 30 cm, in two passes the distance between the rows is 60 cm. For autumn plowing of the garden or when plowing virgin soil, I use a smaller grip. The small wheel is made so wide that the plow does not press into the ground.

Having looked at the pictures below, you can imagine the basic principles of operation of a homemade plow, or rather a guide system that allows the plow, without the participation of a plowman, to move strictly in a straight line at the established plowing depth and width. The plowing width is regulated by moving the large wheel, which, when the point of application of the traction force is shifted as shown in the figure, is pressed against the furrow, which allows the plow to repeat the direction of the previous furrow. The plow turns slightly, which increases the plowing width. In fact, the width of the nose in the direction perpendicular to the axis of movement of the plow is less than 300 mm, however, the specified width is available for plowing.

The plow wheel runs along the bottom of the plowed furrow and this situation is observed from the previous furrow to the next. As a result of the application of traction force, a force is exerted to deepen the plow until the plow is aligned with the axis of the wheel, as shown in the figure, as a result, all forces are balanced, and the system operates very stably. Rough adjustment of the plowing depth is carried out by selecting the appropriate difference in wheel diameters, and smooth adjustment is carried out by adjusting the tilt of the plow. At this stage, there was no longer any need to use handles to control the plow, except for some special plowing conditions.

Plows not only loose soil as in the video, but also virgin soil

Plow for agricultural winch - video

The plow is used in conjunction with such a winch for plowing

You can find industrial motorized and electric winches for plows on sale.

A plow is a labor tool designed for plowing hard soil and has been used by man since ancient times. The intended use of a plow determines its technical and quality characteristics: the design of the frame and cutting element, fastening mechanisms and stops, material of manufacture and its thickness.

General characteristics

There are several types of plows according to their purpose:

• manual– for plowing soft land of a small area;
• equestrian– used in situations where it is necessary to cultivate land, access to which is limited for special equipment;
• with rope traction– helps to cultivate the soil in hard to reach places, for example, in the mountains or in a swamp;
• mounted– works in conjunction with special equipment, allowing you to reduce the turning radius during sequential plowing;
• trailed– general purpose plow.

The mentioned types of plows, in turn, are divided into the following subspecies:

• single-hull;
• double-hull or more;
• disk - reversible;
• rotary.

The generally accepted configuration of a plowing tool, which you can construct with your own hands, is shown in Figure 1.

The main parts of the hull structure have the following parts:

• chisel – pad on the cutting part;
• ploughshare – removable “knife”;
• wing, chest and blade feather;
• uglosnim – cuts corners from layers of soil;
• stand – fastening element.

Modern technologies make it possible to make a plow with your own hands. You can design it according to your drawings or modify a ready-made one to suit your needs. A tool made independently has a number of advantages and characteristic design features.

Features of a homemade model

A plow assembled with your own hands is a tool that meets target needs and has a low cost. To assemble it, you can use materials available, as well as parts of the structures of other agricultural units. The latter can be taken from old agricultural workshops, ferrous metal collection points, and other similar places.

Homemade plow easy to customize to suit your needs. It is possible to adapt it to different types of soil, draft mechanisms, and even to the functions of processing agricultural crops. Your own plow can be made taking into account the power and productivity of tractor equipment, which will allow you to achieve the highest efficiency useful action and reduce destructive loads on the plowing tool.

The cutting element of this plow can be replaceable and manufactured/sharpened independently, which significantly reduces the cost of servicing the mechanism. At self-production it becomes possible to vary the intended use - introducing the function of replaceable elements: attachments, fasteners, parts of the body and frame. This allows for combined work, such as plowing and mowing bushes.

When making your plow you can spend Special attention selection of materials and their quality. This is one of the key advantages homemade assembly, since when buying a plow in a store, it is difficult to be sure of the quality of the metal used to manufacture the factory unit. After purchasing a store model, you may need to further refine it or replace some low-quality structural components.

Materials and tools

Making a homemade plow for a mini-tractor Requires a basic tool:

• welding inverter;
• Bulgarians;
• drills;
• vice.

AND additional tool, the list of which is determined by the design of a particular mechanism and the conditions of its production.

The materials making up the main structure must be solid steel blanks. Violations of their integrity - cracks, deformation, severe rust - are unacceptable.

List of materials that may be needed:

• thick profile sheet metal high strength;
• metal corners and plates of sufficient thickness;
• bolts of various calibers;
• additional items (washers, bearings, springs) determined by the characteristics of a particular design.

How to do it?

In order to facilitate the process of assembling a plow for a mini-tractor, you can go by reconstructing another tool of the same name, used in conjunction with draft objects: a horse-drawn plow or a skimmer from the plowing mechanism of a large tractor.

Assembling the required unit requires drawing up the correct drawings. Their presence will ensure optimization of the design, reduction in the number of components, simplicity and quality of assembly.

The drawings should indicate the dimensions of the elements, which are closely related to the dimensions of the mini-tractor and the properties of the cultivated soil. During the manufacturing process, it is important to adhere to these parameters.

At the design stage, it is worth drawing separately each detail that has irregular shape, in compliance with natural size. In the future, from such drawings it will be possible to create a pattern for transferring the image of the part onto a metal workpiece. Some variations of the plow drawing are shown in Figures 2 and 3.

Let's consider two options for making a plow for a mini-tractor.

From a horse plow

This plow configuration, mounted with a mini-tractor, is considered the easiest to manufacture. All work on reconstructing a horse-drawn plow comes down to adapting to it a frame that has a special fastening mechanism, equipping it with a wheel (if necessary) and a weighting agent.

A horse-drawn plow consists of a body and a double-sided frame, which serves as a mechanism for attaching to the animal's harness and as a means of controlling the plowing process. Its simplest configuration is shown in photo 4.

In this case, it is necessary to reconstruct the mounting part of the horse-drawn plow into one that will be installed on a mini-tractor with the least effort. This process can be simplified by making a tow bar for a tractor mount. A copy of it is shown in photograph 5.

The towing device is easy to manufacture. A wide plate with two horizontal holes at the edges internal thread, is complemented by a protrusion in the middle into which a fork ball with a leg is screwed/welded. An L-shaped part is attached to the center of the plate, serving as a locking mechanism for the plow frame mounted on the towbar. The plate is placed between the two “ears” of the tractor mount and secured with four bolts.

The modification of the horse-drawn plow shown in photograph 4 is equipped with a special wheel. It serves as a support for the structure frame; it can be used to adjust the depth of penetration of the plow into the soil.

Adjustment is carried out using a simple mechanism - a threaded bracket into which a clamping bolt is screwed. The wheel stand can move vertically inside the bracket. The bolt fixes it in the desired position. This design allows, if necessary, to move the bracket along the plow frame.

The wheel itself is made of a metal rim, spokes and an axle drum. To make it, you can use a 300x50 mm metal strip, reinforcing bars, or a piece of pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the wheel axle.

The metal strip is bent in the form of a hoop, its edges are welded together, the weld seam is polished with a grinder or cutting wheel of an angle grinder. A piece of pipe equal to the width of the tape is placed in the center of the circle. The distance from the rim to the outer surface of the pipe - drum is measured. The reinforcement spokes will be equal to this distance. The resulting blanks are welded together. To improve the torsion characteristics of the wheel, a bearing of the appropriate diameter can be welded into the drum. This will reduce friction and reduce the load on the wheel axle.

The described plow design can be operated in two ways. In the first case, a second person will be needed to control the plow from behind, adjusting the furrow line. In this case, the “manager” applies pressure on the frame necessary for sufficient immersion of the ploughshare into the ground.

In the second case, the presence of an assistant is not necessary. The plow becomes heavier and moves on its own. The load can be a piece of heavy metal or a stone enclosed in a frame. The weighting agent is placed on the edge away from the tractor. In this case, the pressure on the share will be maximum with the available weight. To prevent the load from overturning the plow, it should be secured on the underside of the frame.

When operating a plow without a second person, it is worth considering the factor of furrow curvature. The simplicity of the described design assumes that the plow “swims” from side to side. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to equip it with a “hard” clutch with the tractor. In this case, the draft mechanism will straighten the furrow strip.

From skimmers

A skimmer is an element of a tractor plow that serves to cut off the top layer of soil during plowing. Photo 6.

Its shape is similar to the working body of a plow share, and its size is half the size. This fact allows you to effectively use the skimmer as a plow for a mini-tractor.

During the design process, you will need to weld a frame that will hold the skimmer and attach it to the tractor towbar, and also equip it with a stop wheel.

When creating drawings of this design, it is worth taking into account the power of the tractor, the condition of the cultivated soil, and the volume of future work. If plowing is expected large area ground, it is possible to use two skimmers on one frame. In this case, the plow will have a double body. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on one plowshare body and reduce its wear.

A motorized winch is usually used for plowing land. self-propelled plow. While moving, the plow itself stays in the furrow; little support is required during the first furrow and when plowing heavy and virgin soils.

The design of the plow allows you to adjust the working width and plowing depth. Using the extension of the furrow (large) wheel, the working width is adjusted, and the plowing depth is adjusted by adjusting the height of the wheels. A normally adjusted self-propelled plow holds itself well and firmly in the furrow and produces an even turn of the formation along the entire length of the furrow.

When plowing light sandy soils, the working width can be set to 20cm, when plowing loam it is 5-15cm. Plowing depth is usually about 20cm.

When plowing a plot with a motorized winch using a self-propelled plow, the earth over the entire area of ​​the plot is transferred to one side, so the next time you plow, the winch must be placed on the other side of the plot. This can be difficult, so plows with a left moldboard are used. With each subsequent plowing, a plow with an opposite mold is used, then the earth remains in place. Usually in practice they plow with one plow in the spring and another in the fall.

Transported winch plow to the beginning of the furrow by the handle, while the ploughshare is raised above the ground and the plow rolls on wheels.
The length of the handle should be such that the plowshare does not hit your legs; it is better when the handle is long. But when plowing from the fence (and before lunch), the handle does not allow you to get close and also interferes with transportation, so often the handle is also made adjustable. Previously, there were specimens of titanium plows; their weight made it possible to simply carry them in your hands.
Most of the plows available on farms for motorized winches are homemade plows.
Successful homemade plow It’s difficult to do, but those who do this all the time have their own drawings and patterns, and the plows turn out to be quite functional.
The photographs (photo 1 - photo 4) show four right-hand plows. They differ slightly in the design of the blades, the attachment of the plowshare to the blade and the adjustment of the wheels. The layout of the units themselves is approximately the same. On the first plow (photo 1) there is an adjustment for the length of the handle; it can be seen that there used to be an adjustment for the height of the ploughshare stand, but it was welded in as unnecessary.

The photographs (photo 5 - photo 6) show the left plows. Their design is similar, only mirrored to the right.
Used for hilling potatoes and cutting rows hillers for motorized winches(photo 7, photo 8). On light soils, hand hillers are practiced, where the strength of one person is enough to move it. On heavier soils, the hiller is pulled through using a motorized winch, and for hilling, two people are required, one stands on the winch, the other works with the hiller.
Photo 9 shows potato digger for motorized winch. When moving along a row of potatoes, she digs them out, letting the soil pass through her.
Some gardeners adapt to digging up potatoes using a hand plow, tipping them a little when passing through the row. Basically, in their gardens, potatoes are dug by hand with a shovel or special pitchfork.
Very interesting land cultivation devices are presented in photographs 10-12. The hiller for the motorized winch (photo 10) can be replaced with disc hiller(left) or flat cutter ripper (right). On vertical racks Flat cutters at the bottom are flat triangular knives.
For harrowing, use a heavy harrow (photo 11) with wheels for ease of transportation, or a light harrow original design with chains for breaking lumps (photo 12). When the harrow is turned over, it is used as a grab to level the ground. This complex is used in one of the private households together with an electric winch (photo 7a, b) from the previous article. It is possible for one person to work as a hiller with an electric winch only if there is remote control winch, and most of the work, as a rule, has to be done alone.

After I got a self-made agricultural winch, which is used for plowing the garden, the question became: should I buy a plow or make it myself? Walking through the shops and bazaar of Smolensk, you get a strange feeling that the plows produced by the industry for walk-behind tractors are a sad sight. And these industrial creations are suitable only for “picking” and not for plowing the land, and even with the rotation of the layer, and regarding the depth and width of plowing, we can conclude that for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm, not one of the proposed ones is suitable in the plow trade. Either our manufacturers are saving money, or the power of the most popular walk-behind tractors is not enough to work with a normal plow with a working width of 30 cm. When planting potatoes, you shouldn’t plow one furrow three times. And the price wants to leave the best - under 2 thousand. rubles (for a couple of pieces of iron from a scrap metal collection point). The next step to find something useful is to search the Internet. To my surprise, there are 3-4 original descriptions with drawings floating in the vastness of the Russian-language network (this fact surprises me very much). The next step is to look at what those around you are using. It was not possible to buy a suitable plow; the decision was made to make a plow with our own hands. Based on the fact that the plow was supposed to be used for planting potatoes with a winch for plowing, the following requirements are imposed on it:

1. Plowing width – up to 30 cm.

2. Plowing depth -10-20cm.

3. The plow must hold the furrow itself, without digging in or jumping out of the furrow. The geometry of the plow must ensure movement with the specified parameters without the help of a plowman.

4. Possibility of adjusting the depth and width of plowing.

5. Minimum weight and sufficient strength.

My uncle has been using his homemade motorized winch for plowing for more than 10 years and has tried several options. For the last few years, he has settled on an option optimized for a homemade motorized winch for the garden, namely for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm. There is also a homemade hiller for motorized winch and potato digger. made with your own hands, all this can be viewed on the corresponding pages of the site .

Field board drawing.

The blade is bent according to this template until the two profiles coincide and then welded at an angle.

Using a drawing of a homemade plow, you need to draw a template for the plow pattern on thick paper, and then transfer the picture to metal and cut out the blank with a grinder. Personally, I used stainless steel material with a thickness of 1.8 mm. Many often use a sheet of 2-3 mm. The cutting part of the plow is reinforced with a strip of thicker metal. Someone suggests using a disk from a circular machine for these purposes, or a spring from a “Muscovite”. From personal experience, if you plow a summer cottage plot for a family of 4 people in the spring and fall, cultivating six acres, you shouldn’t strive for super-strength. It is more profitable to make a plow that is light but strong enough for its tasks. It’s better to repair or replace something after 10 years, and only if necessary, than to carry around the heavy structure of a homemade plow for 10 years. There is no need for excess weight.

This is what the plowing width adjustment system looks like. By rearranging the large wheel, you can change the plowing width within significant limits. When I plant potatoes, I set the grip to 30 cm, in two passes the distance between the rows is 60 cm. For autumn plowing of the garden or when plowing virgin soil, I use a smaller grip. The small wheel is made so wide that the plow does not press into the ground.

Questions, comments, discussions are available on the website Pahalka.ru

Do-it-yourself winch plow: drawings. How to make a plow for a winch with your own hands?

If you need to make a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of this tool must first be considered.

Features of the plow for the winch

It is worth understanding before starting work that the working element of the plow is a ploughshare, which cuts the layer of the lower part of the soil. Among other elements, there is also a blade, which is designed for crumbling and wrapping the earth. A field board is also used in the design, which acts as a support for the tool. It rests on the bottom of the furrow. The field board, blade, fur, as well as the stand with which the plow element is fixed, make up the body of the structure. In the ground, the body moves towards the horizon, cutting off the soil, and then deforming it and turning it over.

Features of plow manufacturing

A plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of which must be drawn up yourself, can only be completed after you have studied the principle of operation of the tool. Before this, you need to make sure that you are capable of working with metal; you will have to bend the blade using sheet bending rollers. You can choose for yourself one of the proposed options for manufacturing a body blade.

Features of case manufacturing

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of which will allow you to complete the work without errors, it will be necessary to form the body, taking into account that the layer of earth should rise 25 centimeters upward. This indicates that the tool will be subject to significant stress. In addition, the surfaces of the housing will be subject to abrasive wear, which entails the need to use steel with a thickness of 5 millimeters for the manufacture of working elements of the structure.

Features of the share

The ploughshare must be removable so that it can be sharpened. The manufacture of this element must be carried out using alloy steel, it can be a disk circular saw. You can use steel that has not been hardened. If only regular grade carbon steel is available that has not been heat treated, that can also be used, but the cutting surface of the share will need to be cold hammered with an anvil before use. Afterwards the element should be sharpened.

Blade manufacturing technology

When you make a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of which will allow you to complete the work more easily, you need to prepare sheet bending rollers. They will allow you to give the workpiece the required shape. To do this, the blade blank, the thickness of which is 4 millimeters, must be brought to the rollers at an angle of 23 degrees. The element must be bent and then brought to the desired shape using a hammer.

Second manufacturing option

Initially, you need to prepare drawings of the plow for the winch with your own hands. Only then can you begin to manufacture the blade, which can be made from steel pipe, its diameter should be 600 millimeters, while the wall thickness should vary within 45 millimeters. In this case, initially, you need to make an element template from fairly thick cardboard, and then apply it to the pipe, so that an angle of 23 degrees should be obtained between the lower part of the blade and the pipe cylinder. The outline of the element needs to be marked with chalk, and then an oval is cut out using gas welding, then the workpiece is processed using sandpaper. If necessary, the shape can be modified using a hammer.

Third manufacturing option

First you need to make drawings of the plow for the winch with your own hands. The third manufacturing option will be the most labor-intensive. The blank for the dump will need to be heated using a forge. Afterwards, the part must be bent along the matrix; as the latter, you can use a blade borrowed from a tractor plow. The plow body must be made of sheet steel, the thickness of which is 3 millimeters.

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings, photos of which you should study in advance, you can first complete the structural elements using thick cardboard, after which the templates are glued together. If the design layout satisfies you, you can use it as a basis for making the tool. When the main plow blanks are prepared, a steel sheet should be used to mount the body, the thickness of which should be 3 millimeters, while the dimensions of this blank are 500 x 500 millimeters. Using a steel sheet, you need to retreat 40 millimeters from its edges. You need to install a plowshare on the metal sheet and secure it by welding on both sides. Next, you need to place the shield under the ploughshare, taking into account that its location should be vertical, in addition, it should extend beyond the edges of the ploughshare by 8 millimeters. In this case, the rack shield should be located 10 millimeters above the ploughshare blade; this is the only way to prevent it from interfering with the blade. The shield also needs to be welded to the steel sheet and ploughshare.

Connecting elements

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, you should learn in advance how to make a tool. At the next stage, you need to try on the blade to the ploughshare, which should be connected to this element quite tightly, there should be no gaps. The angle between the plowshare blade and the blade edge should be approximately 8 degrees. If an angle discrepancy is found, the blade must be modified using a hammer. After the blade is adjusted to the ploughshare, it must be secured by welding. At the next stage, a spacer bar and a base plate are attached to this shield. The latter needs to be strengthened to the supporting corners. The tool must be inspected and all elements finally welded. The support corners of the share must be welded to the base plate.

Final works

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, at the next stage you need to thoroughly clean the seams, and treat the ploughshare and blade with sanding paper. In order to ensure self-propelledness of the plow, it is necessary to attach a block that has two wheels.

Features of wheel manufacturing

The furrow wheel should be selected so that it has a diameter equal to 320 millimeters, while its width should be equivalent to 50 millimeters. It can be made from a metal sheet whose thickness is 4 millimeters. After you have succeeded in making a plow with your own hands for a winch, you will need to make a field wheel, the diameter of which is 200 millimeters, while its width should be equivalent to the width of the base wheel. It must be made from the same material. The wheel axle is formed from 3/4-inch pipe. After completing this work, you can safely start using the tool. One of its positive features is that if it breaks, you can easily fix it, since you will know its structure well.

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Homemade plow

Some home-made people try to make a plow with their own hands, copying it from a tractor or horse-drawn plow. Often such an attempt ended in failure, not because the craftsmen lacked patience and will, but because of the lack of necessary knowledge about the geometry of the plow body.

A little theory

In order to more clearly imagine the process of plowing and the purpose individual elements plow, first consider the interaction with the soil of a simple wedge. Under the influence of the wedge, soil deformation occurs, the nature of which depends on the technological properties of the soil and the angle alpha (α) of setting the working edge of the wedge to the horizon.

Interaction of a wedge with an alpha angle with the soil

A dihedral wedge with an alpha angle separates the layer from the bottom of the furrow, lifts it, compresses it in a vertical plane and splits it into separate parts. The greater the alpha angle, the more the wedge bends and crumbles the separated layer. However, when the alpha angle increases to 45°, the soil stops sliding along the upper edge of the wedge and begins to “unload” in front of the wedge. A dihedral wedge with a gamma angle (γ), oriented vertically, separates the formation from the wall of the furrow, moves the soil to the side and compresses it in the horizontal plane.

Interaction of the gamma angle wedge with the soil

A dihedral wedge with an angle beta (β) is designed to deflect the formation to the side, turning it over.

Interaction of a wedge with an angle beta with the soil

However, in order to transfer the formation from a horizontal position to an inclined one and turn it over, the beta angle of the wedge must vary from 25° to 130°, that is, the surface of the wedge must be curved. The complex impact on the formation of three dihedral wedges will replace one trihedral wedge, which is an AMBO tetrahedron with three mutually perpendicular faces VOM, AOM and AOB.

Interaction of a triangular wedge with the soil

When moving the triangular wedge in the direction of the X axis, edge AB cuts off the layer from the bottom of the furrow, edge VM from the wall of the furrow, and edge ABM takes the layer to the side, crumbles and wraps it.

To ensure plowing of the soil, the triangular wedge is converted into a curved plowshare-mouldboard surface of the plow body, which is characterized by continuously changing angles alpha, gamma, and beta.

Working surface of the plow body

Let us recall that the working parts of the plow are: a ploughshare, cutting the layer from below; a blade for wrapping and crumbling the formation, a field board - a plow support that rests on the bottom of the furrow. The moldboard, ploughshare, field board, as well as the stand, with the help of which the previously listed plow organs are attached, make up the body of the plow. Moving in the soil in the direction of the X axis, the plow body with curved surface cuts off the layer, lifts it, deforms it, crumbles it, wraps it and throws it into an open furrow. Of the many technological operations performed by a plow, the main one, from the point of view of agricultural technology, is the turnover and crumbling of the formation, the intensity of which is determined by the values ​​and intensity of changes in the angles alpha, gamma, and beta, that is, the actual shape of the working surface of the moldboard of the plow body.

The process of turnover of a layer of earth:
a - plowing depth; b - width of the formation of the plow body

The surfaces of the dumps can be cylindrical, cylindrical (resembling cylindrical) and helical. A plow with a cylindrical surface crumbles and mixes soil layers well, but does not turn the layer well, which does not meet the requirements of agricultural technology. Therefore, plows with cylindrical body surfaces are not used for plowing the land. Of greatest interest is the plow with a cylindrical moldboard surface. This surface is characterized by an intensive increase in both the crumbling angle alpha (from α 0 = 25° to α max = 130°) and the formation wrapping angle beta (from β 0 = 25°. 35° to β max = 100°. 130° ). The gamma shift angle varies within small limits from (from γ 0 =35°. 42° to γ ​​max =45°. 50°).

Making a plow

Now that we have become a little familiar with the theory of the plow, we move on to making a homemade plow. So that anyone can make a plow (who is familiar with metalworking), even those who do not have the ability to bend the blade sheet bending rollers, below are three options for manufacturing a plow body moldboard. When forming the body of the plow, it is necessary to take into account the fact that when lifting a layer of earth 20-25 cm high, the plow experiences very significant loads, and the surfaces of its body are subject to abrasive wear, therefore, for the working parts of the plow it is necessary to select steel 3-5 mm thick.

ploughshare. The plow share must be removable (for sharpening before plowing); it is better to make it from alloy steel 9ХС (circular saw blade). 45 steel, hardened to a hardness of HRC 50-55, is also suitable. If only carbon steel of ordinary quality is available, for example, St. 5, which is not “heat-treated,” it can also be made to satisfactorily cut a layer of earth if, before plowing, the cutting part of the ploughshare is beaten on an anvil in a cold state, like a scythe, and sharpened.

The first version of the blade manufacturing. As mentioned above, the working surface of the blade must have a cylindrical surface. If there are sheet bending rollers, give the workpiece the required form will not be difficult. To do this, a blade blank 3-4 mm thick, cut from steel (gas-electric welding, scissors), is fed to the rollers at an angle of 20°-23°, bent, and then refined with a hammer according to the template.

Drawing of a plow blade made of 3 mm sheet steel

Second option. The blade can be made from a steel pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm, the wall thickness of which is 4-5 mm. In this case, first a dump template is made from thick cardboard, then the template is placed on the pipe, making sure that there is an angle of 20-23° between the lower generatrix of the blade and the generatrix of the pipe cylinder. The contour of the blade is outlined with chalk, then the blade is cut out using gas welding and processed using emery. If necessary, the shape of the blade is modified with a hammer, focusing on the template.

Blade shape from a pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm (wall thickness 4-5 mm)

Third option. The most labor-intensive way to produce a moldboard is when its workpiece has to be heated in a forge (or in another way), and then bent along a matrix (a moldboard from a tractor plow is suitable for the latter).

The plow body is made of sheet steel St.3-St.10 with a thickness of 3 mm.

Plow parts drawing:
a — ploughshare, alloy steel; b — side shield of the rack, St3; c — spacer plate, St3; g — plow base plate, St3; d - field board, corner 30x30 mm; e - stand, pipe with a diameter of 42 mm

It is recommended to first make the plow elements from thick cardboard and glue them together, maintaining the appropriate angles. Thus, the value of the alpha and beta angles in different parts of the body will be from 25° to 130°, the gamma angle - from 42° to 50°. If a homemade plow made of cardboard satisfies you in all respects, feel free to tackle metal.

When metal elements the plows will be ready, to assemble the body you will need a metal (steel) sheet 2-3 mm thick and 500x500 mm in size, and you will also need a welding machine. On the metal sheet, stepping back 40 mm from the edges, we set the angle γ 0.

Plow assembly: 1 - ploughshare; 2 — side shield of the rack; 3 - metal sheet 2-3 mm

Using wedges with an angle α 0 =25°, we install a plowshare on a metal sheet and attach it to the sheet by welding on both sides. We bring the side shield of the rack under the ploughshare, making sure that it is positioned vertically and extends beyond the edge of the ploughshare by 5-8 mm, while the rack shield should be located above the blade of the ploughshare (that is, above the sheet) by 6-10 mm, so that do not interfere with the blade of the ploughshare cutting the layer of earth. The shield is also lightly welded to both the ploughshare and the metal sheet.

Then we try on the blade to the ploughshare, which should fit tightly with the ploughshare, without gaps, so that the surfaces of the blade and the ploughshare form one whole. The angle between the ploughshare blade and the upper edge of the blade is equal to the difference between the angles γ max and γ 0 and should be 6-8°.

Plowshare attachment:
1 - ploughshare; 2 — countersunk head screw M8; 3 - dump; 4 — base plate; 5 - corner 30x30x90 mm; 6 - M8 nut

If a discrepancy between the corners and/or surfaces is detected, the blade is modified with a hammer. Having adjusted the blade to the ploughshare, it is welded to the ploughshare (from the back), as well as to the side shield. Next, a spacer bar and a base plate are welded to the side shield, and the thrust corners for the ploughshare are again attached to the latter. The plow is inspected again and finally welded, while the metal sheet on which the plow was assembled is detached from the body using a chisel or “grinder” with a cutting disc. The thrust corners for attaching the plowshare are thoroughly welded to the base plate. Then the welds are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are treated with sandpaper.

In order for the plow to be “self-propelled” and “hold the furrow” itself, it is necessary to adapt a 2-wheeled block to it.

Plow with wheel block:
1 — field wheel; 2 - beam; 3 — furrow wheel; 4 — plow body; 5 - handle; 6 — wheel axle; 7 — channel plow adjustment plate

A furrow wheel with a diameter of 320 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is made from steel sheet 3-4 mm thick. A field wheel with a diameter of 200 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is cut from the same material. The wheel axle is made of 3/4-inch tubing. On one side, the pipe is bent at an angle of 90° and a sleeve is welded to the bent end to install the furrow wheel. A field wheel is attached to the other end of the pipe. The wheel axle is also made composite (the figure above shows a composite axle). The pipe itself is welded to the plow beam (a pipe with a diameter of 42 mm).

The depth of plowing with the plow will be 200-240 mm, that is, it will be approximately equal to the vertical distance from the toe of the ploughshare to the field wheel (see figure above). The plowing width, equal to 220-250 mm, depends on the distance (horizontally) from the tip of the ploughshare to the furrow wheel. Those who want to make the plow adjustable in terms of plowing depth and the working width of the soil layer (towards a decrease), it is necessary to ensure that the field wheel can be moved vertically, and the furrow wheel can be moved horizontally, and also fix the wheels in the desired position. To ensure stability of the plow during plowing, it is necessary to adjust the point at which the plow is attached to the cable (if the plow is moved using an electric winch) or to the hook (if the draft force is a horse). To make it easier to find the optimal attachment point for the plow, the easiest way is to take a steel plate 6-8 mm thick (or better yet, a channel) measuring 120x160 mm, drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10 mm in it and weld the plate to the plow beam. The picture below shows an adjustment plate that is attached to a wheel block with a composite axle for the wheels.

Adjustment plate:
a - plate; b - fastening the plate (channel) to the beam; c - loop

The plow works best with an electric winch, because the cable pulls the plow strictly horizontally. When a plow is pulled by a horse, there is a vertical component of the pulling force that lifts the wheel unit upward. Moreover, the taller the horse and the closer the plow is attached to it, the greater this vertical component of the force. When initially connecting the plow to the pulling unit, tie the cable to the adjustment plate, stepping back from the row by 60-90 mm towards the furrow wheel. The first furrow in the arable land is made at half the plowing depth to reduce bending forces. When passing the second furrow, having traveled 5 m, you must stop and look at the cut of the furrow; the field board should leave a clear mark on it, which will indicate that the plow is interacting correctly with the soil. If the mark is not noticeable, move the attachment point to the left wheel by 30-60 mm, if the mark is excessive, move the point to the furrow wheel. If the plow does not want to go deep, move the attachment point above the beam by 30-60 mm, and if it is too deep, lower the plow attachment point.

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How to build a plow with your own hands

A homemade plow is not only economically profitable, but also not difficult to produce. You will always be confident in the reliability of such equipment, but let's figure out how to build it.

The plow is used in agriculture for plowing the land.

If you have ever read newspapers and magazines intended for rural residents, you have probably noticed an abundance of advertising for the sale of mini tractors and walk-behind tractors. Not surprisingly, the land has to be cultivated. But attachments for such equipment are not always available for sale. high quality. The most popular unit is the plow. And when purchasing it, the future plowman faces a lot of problems: one cannot always expect high-quality plowing from such a device, although the cost of an industrially produced plow is quite impressive. A homemade plow can be an excellent alternative to a low-quality product.

Plow design

Before we start making the plow, let's look at its design features. Its main parts are: a ploughshare, a blade and a field board.

Types of plow moldboards: 1 – cylindrical; 2 and 3 – cultural; 4 – half-screw; 5 – screw.

The ploughshare is the main cutting part of the plow. It is located under the dump. The angle of inclination of the cutting edge of the ploughshare should be about 40 degrees. At a smaller angle, the product will rush upward. When working on a walk-behind tractor, you will constantly have to lift the handles, which will lead to rapid fatigue of the worker. A homemade plow for a mini tractor with the mentioned ploughshare must be kept in the soil at all times using hydraulics. The ploughshare is made from high-strength steel grades. It can be difficult to find such material at home, so it is recommended to use an industrial-made plowshare from old equipment. A part from a skimmer may be ideal. In the old days, agricultural machinery was not very powerful, so for heavy soils, equipment was used, in front of which skimmers were installed - small plows for preliminary soil cultivation, due to which the turf was loosened.

The plow moldboard plays an important role. His work is based on the shape of the leaf. The better the sheet is bent outward, the easier it is for the product to turn over the plowed land. The blade is made from low-carbon steel with a thickness of 3 mm (this is the critical thickness that is suitable for a walk-behind tractor). The tractor will require a blade with larger area sheet and greater material thickness.

The plow board is needed to ensure its stability in the soil. If your walk-behind tractor has wheel locking, then if you have a properly installed field board, you will not have to experience great physical activity. It is enough for the block to “show” the direction and set the recess, and then it will work itself until the end of the plowing strip.

Required tools and materials

Drawing of plow parts.

Now let's move on to the actual production of the plow. We will start with mathematical calculations taking into account technical characteristics your walk-behind tractor. If your equipment has a good coefficient of adhesion to the soil, then you can use any drawings as a basis attachments for mini equipment. Otherwise, take your time to make a plow with a wide grip and a large recess. For a conventional walk-behind tractor, you must comply following proportions: 8 kg of equipment weight per 1 cm of recess and per 0.5 cm of plowing width.

To assemble the plow you will need:

• a finished ploughshare or a piece of durable steel;
• electric drill;
• steel for making a blade and field board;
• electric welding;
• Bulgarian;
• bolts and nuts;
• metal stand for making the base.

Work order

Method for determining the center of gravity of a plow: 1 - plow body; 2 – beam; 3 – plow handles; 4, 5 and 6 – ropes; 7 – hook; 8 – plumb line.

We install a vertical stand on a flat horizontal surface, place a field board on the left side in the direction of the intended movement, and a ploughshare on the right side. Sometimes you can come across advice that all parts must be welded to the rack. If you are also planning to do this, then give up this idea: the plow must be collapsible. Then, if any element is damaged, it can be easily replaced, which will reduce forced downtime.

In order for the plow to be easily disassembled and assembled, weld a base for it; the product will include triangular shapes designed to ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. We screw the ploughshare and the field board onto this base in the previously marked directions. The blade must be secured above the plowshare. It needs to be given a certain roundness, which can be done on a special machine or by forging. Cold forging It won't work here for two reasons:

1. Cold metal is very difficult to deform.
2. It will not be possible to give the product a certain shape: you will create irregularities that will prevent the soil from sliding along the dump sheet.

It will be better if the metal is heated, forged and immediately hardened. The holes in the blade (3 of them are needed) can be made directly in the forge, but do not make mistakes with the accuracy of the markings.

Now let’s fix the blade on the body. For fastening, it is necessary to use bolts with a head that fits tightly into the hole. All protrusions will interfere with the operation of the plow, so they must be cut off to fit the base and the areas sanded.

If you work for personal plot on a tractor, then you need to have twin plows that are attached to an axis that runs at an angle to the equipment.

Here, fastening is carried out using strong metal clamps (do not use welded fastening elements - they will break under load!). The position of the bearing axis should not be stationary. Here it is necessary to provide at least a small angle of rotation so that you can adjust the position of the plows.

If desired, the master can also make a reversible plow, placing it in the gap between the axle and the tractor hydraulic drive to turn. But such a design is popularly recognized as irrational: it breaks down too quickly. It’s better to use factory-made plow turning elements. If they are available, then there is no problem; there is no need to make such a complex device yourself. It will cost a waste of time and nerves, and the result of the efforts will be short-lived.

This is my third homemade plow model with an electric winch. Taking into account previous experience, I made it according to the principle “the simpler, the more reliable” - from available materials at the lowest cost.

The plow design (photo 1, fig.) consists of 5 main components.

Dump. I cut it out with a grinder from 2 mm thick tin (photo 2). I welded a plowshare from a spring from a Moskvich. I bent the blade radially so that its front part came close to the front part of the field board (PD), cut from a steel sheet 3 mm thick. I welded the blade to the PD with an overlap so that its cutting part would be 2-3 cm below it. From a 50x50 cm corner I cut out a 50 cm long skid. I attached it with an MB bolt with a countersunk head to the PD.

Rack. I used a 20x40 mm profile. At the bottom I attached one M8 bolt to both the skid and the PD at the same time, and at the top with a similar bolt to the PD, taking into account the fact that in this place the angle of inclination of the plow can be adjusted. At the end of the skid I welded a piece of tube d 20 mm - a spacer for the blade (photo 3). Using a stand attached to the drawbar, the plow can be lowered and raised, thereby adjusting the plowing depth.

Drawbar. Together with the transverse axis made from water pipe x 42 mm. I welded the drawbar coupling box with the stand using corners from a 30×60 mm profile. When moving up and down, it is fixed on the stand with a pin (nail) in holes drilled at intervals of 50 mm (photo 4).

Hitch unit. Designed to move the drawbar along the transverse axis (photo 5) when adjusting the width of the furrow. Nearby I attached a bracket through which the cable from the electric winch passes (photo 6). Using a bracket, I adjust the force required to hold the plow along the width of the furrow (partially and in depth).

Wheels made of 2 mm sheet metal are attached to the ends of the transverse axis. One is flat, the second is in the form of a plate. To make bending more convenient, I made slits around the perimeter of the circle. Hubs made from pieces of pipe 20 mm in diameter were reinforced with spacers made from strips of metal 20 mm wide (photo 7). I covered the wheel rims with the same strips to prevent them from sinking into the ground.

Just above the blade I tied a piece of 4 mm wire to the stand. He pulled it through the hole in the bracket on the transverse axis and bent the loop at the other end. This S-shaped hook is used to connect the plow to the winch cable (photo 8).

Typically, when working with a winch, the most labor-intensive operation is transporting the plow to the new furrow. With my design weighing less than 15 kg and with wheels, this turns into a walk: lift it by the spacer and roll it with one hand to the desired place.

I pass 1-2 initial furrows, pressing the plow from above to obtain the desired depth. After that, I just control the process - the plow itself maintains the required width (pressing the convex wheel against the edge of the furrow) and depth.
On a note

Ideally, the S-hook should unbend when the winch force is significantly greater than the working force - for example, when a large stone is encountered in the path of the plow. This will prevent the motor from burning out.

A horse-drawn, tractor-mounted or walk-behind plow is an indispensable thing in a homestead. The plow plows the earth, turning it over upper layer soil, which reduces the number of weeds and makes the soil softer and more pliable. You can not only buy a plow, but also make it yourself. To do this, in addition to tools and materials, you need to have an understanding of the structure of the plow and its geometry.

It is possible to make a plow correctly only when you have an idea of ​​the plowing process, as well as the purpose of each of the plow parts.

When plowing, the plow wedge cuts into the ground at a certain angle, depending on the softness and moisture of the soil. The wedge separates the layer, lifts and compresses it, while simultaneously dividing the layer into several parts. The angle of entry determines how many parts the earth layer will be split into: the larger the angle, the larger the split. But if the angle of entry is more than forty-five degrees, then the soil stops sliding along the working surface of the arable device and begins to accumulate in front of it, making it difficult further work. A vertical plow, that is, with a sharper leading angle, separates the soil from the edge of the plow furrow and compresses it horizontally. A plow with a horizontal leading angle works differently: it deflects and turns over the soil layer.

A typical working plow consists of:

• The ploughshare that cuts the soil,
• dump,
• Knife,
• Field boards,
• Racks,
• Skimmer.

Additionally, the plow can be equipped with:

• More durable metal frame,
• With wheels,
• A mechanism that corrects the operation of the plow relative to the tractor,
• hydraulic mechanisms,
• Pneumatic hydraulic system.

The blade can have several types of working surface:

• Screw,
• Cylindrical,
• Cylindrical.

The cylindrical grinds the soil perfectly, but does not form a layer well. This is not always convenient. Cylindrical work surface Typically used for soft soil. The most convenient and practical to use is a cylindrical surface, which crumbles and turns the soil well, and also copes with both dry and wet soil.

Homemade plow

To make a plow with your own hands at home, you need to have:

• Rollers,
• Bulgarian,
• Gas cutter,
• Fasteners,
• Measuring tool,
• Hammer,
• Welding machine,
• Scissors for cutting metal.

Single-sided plow

The easiest option to manufacture. A one-sided device can be made either integral, in the form of a single body, or collapsible. The collapsible version is convenient because it allows you to remove the plowshare for sharpening. The ploughshare can be replaced with a disk from a circular plate. The dump is usually done in two ways. The first of them requires the use of a pipe cut about five millimeters thick and fifty centimeters in diameter.

A workpiece is cut from the cut, and using an angle grinder it is brought to required sizes. The second method of manufacturing a dump involves the presence of a steel sheet four millimeters thick, or a cylinder with the same wall thickness, but with a cross-section of about 50 cm. Using welding machine or metal scissors, a shape is cut out and bent into a cylinder. If there are deviations from the required dimensions, you can use a hammer for finishing.

Any drawings provide six constituent elements:

• Metal disk or ploughshare,
• The basis,
• Spacer plate
• Side shield,
• Pipe section for the shield,
• Field work board.

The ploughshare is usually installed using a sheet of metal and several wedges beveled at an angle of twenty-five degrees. They are fastened by two-point welding, and it is also used to connect the rack and the side shield. It is advisable to make the shield one centimeter higher than the lower edge of the plowshare, and the edges of the shield should overlap the edge of the blade by five or six millimeters.

The plowshare and blade are fastened by welding so that they are a single whole, without gaps or irregularities. The angle formed between them should not exceed seven degrees. A welded plowshare and blade are attached to the side stand, and the stand itself is welded first to the base and then to the spacer plate. Finally, the corners of the ploughshare are welded to the base. All weld marks and seams are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are ground.

This type is more effective for plowing large areas of land. Manufacturing requires a strong steel frame made of a round or rectangular profile with a thickness of at least two millimeters. The size of the frame depends on the number of working parts and control element required. In the working body, the ploughshare must be placed at the bottom, since its role is to move the layer of earth towards the dump. The blade turns the soil, cuts and moves it, forming a furrow.

The stand is necessary for attaching working tools to the frame and holding the knife. Several adjustable holes are made in it, which will allow you to change the depth of plowing. Usually the rack is welded from a metal plate, at least a centimeter thick, and attached to the frame with bolts.

The frame with all the working tools is attached to a mini-tractor or walk-behind tractor with a homemade drawbar or hitch. The drawbar must have a handle and be straight or V-shaped. The second form option is more effective because it makes the plow much more stable. Also, for greater stability and straightness of movement, you can install field wheels. They are attached to the frame using an adjustable bracket.

Assembly and installation of the plow

To assemble a plow with your own hands, you need to adhere to one very important rule: all parts of the device are welded first spot welding, and only when all the details are in place and fastened correctly is it final. It is easy to check the quality of workmanship - to do this, you need to remove the blade with the ploughshare, and place the plow itself on the table. Pressing the plow tightly, check the coincidence of the table surface with horizontal surface runner If there are no deviations, everything was done correctly.

Also define good assembly possible based on the following criteria:

• The sharp edge of the share is located two centimeters below the skid,
• The plowshare and blade do not protrude beyond the vertical edge of the skid by more than a centimeter,
• There is no gap between the skid and the blade.

Mount the homemade device on a walk-behind tractor next to the plowing area. They start by installing steel wheels - they prevent the walk-behind tractor from slipping in the soil. Next step: secure the plow, but do not tighten all the fastening nuts completely. With their help, the device will be adjusted, which begins on a special stand. The height of the stand should be equal to the plowing depth. After installation and checking the fastening of all components, the plow is placed on the ground.

Testing the quality of work is carried out on three-furrow plowing.

This is sufficient for measuring depth and checking overturned formations. If the furrows overlap one another, or the distance between them is more than ten centimeters, it is necessary to adjust all the components again.