How to make a hand plow. Homemade plows for motorized winches

A horse-drawn, tractor-mounted or walk-behind plow is an indispensable thing in a homestead. The plow plows the earth, turning it over upper layer soil, which reduces the number of weeds and makes the soil softer and more pliable. You can not only buy a plow, but also make it yourself. To do this, in addition to tools and materials, you need to have an understanding of the structure of the plow and its geometry.

It is possible to make a plow correctly only when you have an idea of ​​the plowing process, as well as the purpose of each of the plow parts.

When plowing, the plow wedge cuts into the ground at a certain angle, depending on the softness and moisture of the soil. The wedge separates the layer, lifts and compresses it, while simultaneously dividing the layer into several parts. The angle of entry determines how many parts the earth layer will be split into: the larger the angle, the larger the split. But if the angle of entry is more than forty-five degrees, then the soil stops sliding along the working surface of the arable device and begins to accumulate in front of it, making further work difficult. A vertical plow, that is, with a sharper leading angle, separates the soil from the edge of the plow furrow and compresses it horizontally. A plow with a horizontal leading angle works differently: it deflects and turns over the soil layer.

A typical working plow consists of:

• The ploughshare that cuts the soil,
• dump,
• Knife,
• Field boards,
• Racks,
• Skimmer.

Additionally, the plow can be equipped with:

• More durable metal frame,
• With wheels,
• A mechanism that corrects the operation of the plow relative to the tractor,
• hydraulic mechanisms,
• Pneumatic hydraulic system.

The blade can have several types of working surface:

• Screw,
• Cylindrical,
• Cylindrical.

The cylindrical grinds the soil perfectly, but does not form a layer well. This is not always convenient. A cylindrical work surface is usually used for working with soft soil. The most convenient and practical to use is a cylindrical surface, which crumbles and turns the soil well, and also copes with both dry and wet soil.

Homemade plow

To make a plow with your own hands at home, you need to have:

• Rollers,
• Bulgarian,
• Gas cutter,
• Fasteners,
• Measuring tool,
• Hammer,
• Welding machine,
• Scissors for cutting metal.

Single-sided plow

The easiest option to manufacture. A one-sided device can be made either integral, in the form of a single body, or collapsible. The collapsible version is convenient because it allows you to remove the plowshare for sharpening. The ploughshare can be replaced with a disk from a circular plate. The dump is usually done in two ways. The first of them requires the use of a pipe cut about five millimeters thick and fifty centimeters in diameter.

A workpiece is cut from the cut and, using an angle grinder, brought to the required size. The second method of manufacturing a dump involves the presence steel sheet, four millimeters thick, or a cylinder with the same wall thickness, but a cross-section of about 50 cm. Using a welding machine or metal scissors, a shape is cut out and bent into the shape of a cylinder. If there are deviations from the required dimensions, you can use a hammer for finishing.

Any drawings provide six constituent elements:

• Metal disk or ploughshare,
• The basis,
• Spacer plate
• Side shield,
• Pipe section for the shield,
• Field work board.

The ploughshare is usually installed using a sheet of metal and several wedges beveled at an angle of twenty-five degrees. They are fastened by two-point welding, and it is also used to connect the rack and the side shield. It is advisable to make the shield one centimeter higher than the lower edge of the plowshare, and the edges of the shield should overlap the edge of the blade by five or six millimeters.

The plowshare and blade are fastened by welding so that they are a single whole, without gaps or irregularities. The angle formed between them should not exceed seven degrees. A welded plowshare and blade are attached to the side stand, and the stand itself is welded first to the base and then to the spacer plate. Finally, the corners of the ploughshare are welded to the base. All weld marks and seams are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are ground.

This type is more effective for plowing large areas of land. Manufacturing requires a strong steel frame made of a round or rectangular profile with a thickness of at least two millimeters. The size of the frame depends on the number of working parts and control element required. In the working body, the ploughshare must be placed at the bottom, since its role is to move the layer of earth towards the dump. The blade turns the soil, cuts and moves it, forming a furrow.

The stand is necessary for attaching working tools to the frame and holding the knife. Several adjustable holes are made in it, which will allow you to change the depth of plowing. Usually the rack is welded from a metal plate, at least a centimeter thick, and attached to the frame with bolts.

The frame with all the working tools is attached to a mini-tractor or walk-behind tractor with a homemade drawbar or hitch. The drawbar must have a handle and be straight or V-shaped. The second form option is more effective because it makes the plow much more stable. Also, for greater stability and straightness of movement, you can install field wheels. They are attached to the frame using an adjustable bracket.

Assembly and installation of the plow

To assemble a plow with your own hands, you need to adhere to one very important rule: all parts of the device are welded first spot welding, and only when all the details are in place and fastened correctly is it final. It is easy to check the quality of workmanship - to do this, you need to remove the blade with the ploughshare, and place the plow itself on the table. Pressing the plow tightly, check the coincidence of the table surface with the horizontal surface of the skid. If there are no deviations, everything was done correctly.

Also define good assembly possible based on the following criteria:

• The sharp edge of the share is located two centimeters below the skid,
• The plowshare and blade do not protrude beyond the vertical edge of the skid by more than a centimeter,
• There is no gap between the skid and the blade.

Mount homemade device on a walk-behind tractor next to the plowing area. They start by installing steel wheels - they prevent the walk-behind tractor from slipping in the soil. Next step: secure the plow, but do not tighten all the fastening nuts completely. With their help, the device will be adjusted, which begins on a special stand. The height of the stand should be equal to the plowing depth. After installation and checking the fastening of all components, the plow is placed on the ground.

Testing the quality of work is carried out on three-furrow plowing.

This is sufficient for measuring depth and checking overturned formations. If the furrows overlap one another, or the distance between them is more than ten centimeters, it is necessary to adjust all the components again.

Do-it-yourself manual plow "Vyatka plowman" (father Gennady's shovel) (drawings and diagrams)

The “Vyatka Plowman” hand plow (Gennady’s father’s shovel) is a tool for quickly digging up the earth. Increases plowing productivity by 4 times compared to a conventional shovel. Due to the rotating method of operation, it does not put any strain on the lower back. Efforts are applied only to the “steering wheel”.

Monk Gennady’s shovel is adjustable in height, which allows it to be ideally adjusted to the height of the tiller. The width of the bucket is 30 cm - 1.5 times wider than a regular shovel. Plowing the land is quick and easy! Suitable for virgin soil, dense soil, turfy soil.

Father Gennady's shovel "Vyatka Plowman":
Increases the speed of digging up soil by approximately 4 times;
Unlike a regular shovel, it does not require you to bend over and squat;
In one go, it pulls out a volume of soil twice as large as a shovel;
Makes planting potatoes convenient and quick by dumping the soil to the side.

A few years ago they showed on television how a priest in the Russian outback was deftly digging a plot of land with a strange shovel, at the top of which there was... a bicycle handlebar. I was very interested in this (I myself had not seen that program), and according to the words of my wife, who saw that program, I designed a miracle shovel with which you can easily dig up the ground twice as fast and without bending over at all, thereby not loading your back.

Materials for making the shovel were used at hand:
1. The handlebar is from an old bicycle, I put pieces of hose on the handles, it’s more convenient to work.

2. Stainless steel pipe with a diameter of 22 mm.

3. Shovel made of cold-rolled stainless steel 2 mm thick

4 Pin with a spring or steel movable (adjust to the ground).

Abroad, as well as in our country, every year they come up with something new in loosening the soil so that the microflora is not disturbed, and the microorganisms remain at their level: the lower ones are at the bottom, and the upper ones are at the top, which is very important for future harvests in gardens and country houses. areas.

When digging with such a shovel, you get pure pleasure: you want to work and work, but you don’t get tired at all. It is very good for older people suffering from radiculitis and other spinal diseases.

It is not suitable for digging up grass or cereals, because the soil needs to be turned upside down, but it turns the soil only 180 degrees, and with a sudden movement 100-120 degrees is enough

You can also use material from a miner's shovel. From the height of a person (namely the arm lever), I derived the formula:

Thus, I determined the height of the miracle shovel - from the steering wheel (top part) to the cutting part (I sharpened the shovel at the bottom).
The steering wheel is aligned in a straight line. The pin enters the pipe and is secured with a 2.11 M8 bolt and is used to rotate the miracle shovel.
You need to start digging from right to left or right to back
I am adding drawings for making a miracle shovel. Such a tool satisfies me; I work willingly and without particularly straining. I advise everyone to make such a miracle shovel in order to make their difficult work easier.

Homemade plow- it is not only economically profitable, but also not difficult in terms of production. You will always be confident in the reliability of such equipment, but let's figure out how to build it.

The plow is used in agriculture for plowing the land.

If you have ever read newspapers and magazines intended for rural residents, you have probably noticed an abundance of advertising for the sale of mini tractors and walk-behind tractors. Not surprisingly, the land has to be cultivated. But the attachments for such equipment on sale are not always of high quality. The most popular unit is the plow. And when purchasing it, the future plowman faces a lot of problems: one cannot always expect high-quality plowing from such a device, although the cost of an industrially produced plow is quite impressive. Great alternative a low-quality product may be a homemade plow.

Plow design

Before we start making the plow, let's look at its design features. Its main parts are: a ploughshare, a blade and a field board.

Types of plow moldboards: 1 – cylindrical; 2 and 3 – cultural; 4 – half-screw; 5 – screw.

The ploughshare is the main cutting part of the plow. It is located under the dump. The angle of inclination of the cutting edge of the ploughshare should be about 40 degrees. At a smaller angle, the product will rush upward. When working on a walk-behind tractor, you will constantly have to lift the handles, which will lead to rapid fatigue of the worker. A homemade plow for a mini tractor with the mentioned ploughshare must be kept in the soil at all times using hydraulics. The ploughshare is made from high-strength steel grades. It can be difficult to find such material at home, so it is recommended to use an industrially produced plowshare from old technology. A part from a skimmer may be ideal. In the old days, agricultural machinery was not very powerful, so for heavy soils, equipment was used, in front of which skimmers were installed - small plows for preliminary soil cultivation, due to which the turf was loosened.

The plow moldboard plays an important role. His work is based on the shape of the leaf. The better the sheet is bent outward, the easier it is for the product to turn over the plowed land. The blade is made from low-carbon steel with a thickness of 3 mm (this is the critical thickness that is suitable for a walk-behind tractor). The tractor will require a blade with a larger sheet area and thicker material.

The plow board is needed to ensure its stability in the soil. If your walk-behind tractor has wheel locking, then if you have a properly installed field board, you will not have to experience great physical activity. It is enough for the block to “show” the direction and set the recess, and then it will work itself until the end of the plowing strip.

Required tools and materials

Now let's move on to the actual production of the plow. We will start with mathematical calculations taking into account the technical characteristics of your walk-behind tractor. If your equipment has a good coefficient of adhesion to the soil, then you can use any drawings as a basis attachments for mini equipment. Otherwise, take your time to make a plow with a wide grip and a large recess. For a conventional walk-behind tractor, you must comply following proportions: 8 kg of equipment weight per 1 cm of recess and per 0.5 cm of plowing width.

To assemble the plow you will need:

• a finished ploughshare or a piece of durable steel;
• electric drill;
• steel for making a blade and field board;
• electric welding;
• Bulgarian;
• bolts and nuts;
• metal stand for making the base.

Work order

Method for determining the center of gravity of a plow: 1 - plow body; 2 – beam; 3 – plow handles; 4, 5 and 6 – ropes; 7 – hook; 8 – plumb line.

On level ground horizontal surface We install the stand vertically, place the field board on the left side in the direction of the intended movement, and the ploughshare is located on the right side. Sometimes you can come across advice that all parts must be welded to the rack. If you are also planning to do this, then give up this idea: the plow must be collapsible. Then, if any element is damaged, it can be easily replaced, which will reduce forced downtime.

In order for the plow to be easily disassembled and assembled, weld a base for it; the product will include triangular shapes designed to ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. We screw the ploughshare and the field board onto this base in the previously marked directions. The blade must be secured above the plowshare. It needs to be given a certain roundness, which can be done on a special machine or by forging. Cold forging It won't work here for two reasons:

1. Cold metal is very difficult to deform.
2. It will not be possible to give the product a certain shape: you will create irregularities that will prevent the soil from sliding along the dump sheet.

It will be better if the metal is heated, forged and immediately hardened. The holes in the blade (3 of them are needed) can be made directly in the forge, but do not make mistakes with the accuracy of the markings.

Now let’s fix the blade on the body. For fastening, it is necessary to use bolts with a head that fits tightly into the hole. All protrusions will interfere with the operation of the plow, so they must be cut off to fit the base and the areas sanded.

If you work in your garden with a tractor, then you need to have twin plows that are mounted on an axle that runs at an angle to the equipment.

Here, fastening is carried out using strong metal clamps (do not use welded fastening elements - they will break under load!). The position of the bearing axis should not be stationary. Here it is necessary to provide at least a small angle of rotation so that you can adjust the position of the plows.

If desired, the master can also make a reversible plow by placing a hydraulic drive for turning in the gap between the axle and the tractor. But such a design is popularly recognized as irrational: it breaks down too quickly. It’s better to use factory-made plow turning elements. If they are available, then there is no problem; there is no need to make such a complex device yourself. It will cost a waste of time and nerves, and the result of the efforts will be short-lived.

When cultivating land, one of the most tedious operations is plowing it and preparing it for sowing. If you have equipment - a walk-behind tractor or a mini tractor - everything can be transferred to them, but for plowing you need a plow. Buying a ready-made one is too expensive. Prices finished goods considerable. To save money, you can make a plow yourself. And there are two ways. First: do everything yourself completely. This is a difficult path - the shape of the plow parts is nonlinear, with bends of a certain radius, and bending thick metal at home is very difficult. The second way is to buy ready-made cases, and assemble the frame and all other auxiliary parts yourself. This is a simpler option that is relatively easy to handle.

Types and classification of plows

• ploughshares;
• disk;
• rotary;
• combined;
• chisel.

The most common are plowshare plows. They were used by our ancestors and to this day they work in most fields. For plowing heavy soils and areas with high or low humidity, disc plows are used. Combined and rotary - more complex in design, suitable for cultivating virgin soil. Chisels are special devices that do not involve formation turnover. They are classified as plows conditionally and are rarely used, especially in private farming.

Based on the type of traction, plows are divided into several categories:

And that is not all. There is also a classification according to purpose: general and special. General purpose plows operate on most developed land. Among the plows special purpose There is:

These are not all varieties, but the most popular and used. They differ constructively, and sometimes seriously.

Structure and types of plows

To make a plow with your own hands, you need to have information about its structure and the purpose of its parts. General purpose arable implements are most often used. It consists of several parts, which can be divided into working and auxiliary:

How does this plow work? The skimmer removes the top layer of soil with plants growing on it, turns it over and places it at the bottom of the furrow, which is the result of the work of the body. The body with the equipment cuts off part of the soil from the side of the furrow, loosens it, turns it around a certain angle (depending on the design), and lays it on top of an inverted layer of turf (laid with a skimmer). To level the furrow wall, a knife is placed in front of the last plow body.

General purpose plows can provide a plowing depth of 20 cm to 30 cm, plowshares - from 16 cm (they also do not have a knife and skimmer).

Housings

According to the number of bodies, plows are single-body, double-body and multi-body. The body consists of several parts:

The ploughshare and blade are the working surface - this part is responsible for the quality and type of plowing. The soil layer is cut with a ploughshare, along which it rises to the dump. Here the soil crumbles and turns over. The degree of formation rotation depends on the shape of the dump. A field board is attached to the bottom of the body. Its task is to prevent the plow from moving towards the already plowed area.

If you are going to make your own plow, you need to choose a design based on the type of soil you are going to cultivate. Plow bodies are:

When planning to make a plow with your own hands, the design of the plow body is chosen based on the type of soil and the goals set. Sometimes the choice depends on the type of plantings being grown. For example, root crops require enhanced loosening, which none of the above plow bodies provides. Then a special one is used - combined. It has a shortened blade and share, as well as a rotor. When plowing, the rotor additionally crushes the soil that comes from the ploughshare.

Blade

The plow blade is one of the working parts of the plow (a component of the body). His job is to cut off a layer of soil from the wall, crumble it and turn it over (turn it around). That is, how well the soil will be prepared largely depends on the quality of the dump. When making your own plow, this is worth remembering.

The blade is made from sheet carbon steel or special three-layer steel. It has a complex curved shape, on which the degree of soil grinding and its turnover depend. Structurally, a plow moldboard is distinguished between a chest and a wing (spout).

The blade breast cuts off a layer of soil from the wall of the furrow, crushes it, and begins to wrap the cut layer. The blade wing finishes its revolution. As you can see, the chest does most of the work, and therefore wears out, on average, twice as fast. Therefore, the blade is made of two parts. In this case, if there is severe wear, the blade breast can be replaced. Another nuance: at the factory, to reduce friction between the formation and the surface, it is polished.

There are four main moldboard shapes, each of which imparts specific plowing characteristics:

• Cultural dump. It crumbles the layer well and wraps it quite completely. It is used for plowing large areas of long-developed land.
• Cylindrical. It crushes the soil well, but does not wrap well. As a result plant remains in this case, they are evenly mixed with the soil. A similar blade is used on light soils.
• Half-screw and screw. They wrap the layer completely (plant residues are laid upside down), but crumble very poorly. After plowing with a plow with such a moldboard, the field has pronounced “waves”. Before sowing, it must be further processed - leveled (harrows, cutters, etc.).

When choosing materials, keep in mind that both the blade and the plowshare must have almost the same thickness: the permissible “step” size is 1 mm. Also, the gap at the junction of the plowshare and the blade can be very small - no more than 0.5 mm.

ploughshare

To make a plow with your own hands, you need to decide on the shape of the ploughshare. A ploughshare is a part that cuts a layer of soil; along it, the cut layer of soil also rises and ends up on the dump. High-strength hardened steel is used for its manufacture.

Position the ploughshare as follows:

• to the bottom of the furrow at an angle of 22-30°;
• The choice of inclination angle relative to the furrow plane depends on the type of blade:
  • for a cultural dump - 40°;
  • cylindrical - 45°;
  • screw and half-screw - 35°.

This arrangement provides the least resistance when moving, while the blade cuts roots well and breaks up lumps of earth that slide along its surface.

Ploughshares come in different shapes (pictured above). When making a plow with your own hands, they are chosen depending on the type of soil and the complexity of production:

• Trapezoidal. The easiest to make, the good thing is that when used, the bottom of the furrow is smooth. The disadvantage is rapid wear and difficulty in deepening. Therefore, trapezoidal shares are most often used on long-cultivated lands. To compensate for rapid wear, a certain supply of material is made on the reverse side - a magazine. The next time it is pulled back, part of the reserve goes away.
• Toothed and with retractable chisel. These types of plowshares are used on heavy soils (clay, loams) and where there are a lot of stones.
• Chisel-shaped. It is distinguished by the presence of a sharp, forward protrusion-nose. This protrusion protrudes towards the field by 5 mm and downwards by 10 mm. Such a bend ensures that a plow with such a plowshare penetrates deeper better and faster and goes smoother. To compensate for wear, they also make a “magazine” - a reserve of length. Plows with chisel-shaped shares are used on heavy soils.

Of all these types, chisel-shaped shares are the most common. They are more stable in operation, there are no problems with them when going deep: the plow easily lowers to the desired depth.

As they wear, the plowshares pull back and sharpen the cutting edge. This is done regularly, since with a dull blade (width more than 3 mm), the resistance of the plow increases by 50%. Therefore, it is more profitable to inspect and maintain equipment on time.

Blueprints

When planning to make a plow with your own hands, you need to have some kind of role model. If you have an old plow, you can make new ones in its likeness. And if this is not the case, drawings will come in handy. Just take into account the parameters of your equipment on which you will hang it.

Detailing of some sizes.

Video tutorials on making plows

Plowing the soil is the main operation in agricultural land use. Plowing the land is hard, and the mechanization of small agricultural farms can only be welcomed: it makes the work of the owners easier and gives them the opportunity to handle the land more carefully. But, unfortunately, the plows included with walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors are not of high quality and durability, and purchased ones are either the same, if not worse, or are disproportionately expensive. Meanwhile, in the conditions of private household plots, it is quite possible to make a plow with your own hands: private owners successfully master self-production plows (see figure) for mini tractors, heavy and light walk-behind tractors and agricultural winches; Manual plowing, for example, for planting potatoes, is still far out of use. This already gives 2-5 times savings in money compared to buying a plow with a “reputation”.

And for plowing the smallest areas (dacha, personal plot), a simple plow can be made even from scrap metal, see for example. video below:

Video: a simple plow made from scrap metal

The article further aims to:

• To provide the reader with information that allows him to determine which plow is best for him to plow his land - there are dozens of types of agricultural plows alone that have been tested in practice;
• Give him information that will enable him to move on to independent study of more detailed sources, and, based on the knowledge gained, to construct a plow for himself;
• Also, without diving deep into the technical jungle, choose a prototype for making a plow yourself; possibly from the following drawings and descriptions.

Let's get our bearings first. to make a plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. The walk-behind tractor is the optimal traction unit for small private household plots. Motoblocks are produced for a wide variety of power and traction force - from comparable to the T-40 to approx. 0.5 kW, which is close to the combined hourly power of a pair of strong men. We will consider plows for cultural plowing (for sowing/planting agricultural crops) and raising soil in a newly allocated and developed area. Plowing furrows, for example, for planting potatoes, is carried out with agricultural implements of a different class - plowers (furrowers).

Note: horse-drawn plows are not considered further, because useless without a strong trained and experienced workhorse.

Guys, learn the materiel (theory)

This is a phrase from an old joke. War, Soviet ace. Flies intuitively: handle, pedals, gas, sight, trigger, flap valves and landing gear; the rest is up to the mechanics. Suddenly a check - he puts on his entire iconostasis with the Star of the Hero, and they don’t bother him. They shot him down somehow and was captured. He managed to escape and returned to his own people. The young lieutenants surrounded: “Well, well, comrade major! How is it, being in captivity? He scratched the back of his head and shook his head: “Guys, learn the materiel! Oh, and they ask!” The land from an illiterate, careless owner can be asked not as painfully as the Gestapo, but no less strictly and sensitively.

Earth and plow

Historians and archaeologists currently know at least 6 proto-civilizations only in the Old World; with American ones there will be up to a dozen or more. Of these, only China has survived to this day, largely thanks to the unique soils of the Yellow River Valley, see below. Ancient Egypt and Sumer had a decisive influence on the course of history; the rest were either destroyed or disappeared into oblivion. The reason in most cases is irrational land use. The consequences are actually of geological proportions. The once grain-producing and prosperous Sogdo-Bactrian culture left behind vast expanses of badlands - lands eaten away by erosion, unsuitable for any use.

In historical times there were also plenty of losers of the same kind. Researchers call one of the main reasons for the death of Ancient Rome, along with the depletion of gold deposits and chronic lead poisoning from water pipes, land degradation. The Romans were generally very attentive to agricultural technology. But at that time there were no draft horses. Saving on feed for oxen, which pull worse and eat more than a workhorse, the Romans plowed fully cultivated lands with a heavy Celtic plow, designed for raising soil in slash-and-shift agriculture. The initial productivity of Italian lands is well known to historical sources; It was restored only at the end of the 19th century.

The story continues to this day. In the post-Soviet space, areas that once consistently yielded 30-40 centners of wheat grain per hectare are now harvested at 14-15 centners, and this is considered good harvest. According to official US statistics, up to 80% of the arable land there has either lost productivity or is irreversibly degraded; terrible doses of agrochemicals only slow down this process.

It is now recognized that the main cause of degradation of productive lands is improper plowing and/or the use of plows unsuitable for the given soil. The plow must, simply put, disturb the soil so that it itself, or with the help of additional cultivation, is completely restored during the growing season. The main factors of “earth anxiety” are voids, cracks and depressions that do not heal or do not close during the agricultural year, and zones of anaerobic rotting in plowed soil. The residual effects of improper basic treatment accumulate over time - fertility decreases, surface and deep erosion begins, weeds with pests and plant diseases increasingly attack, despite any pesticides. Proper plowing of a given land with a plow suitable for it can stop this process or push its consequences into the distant future; the wrong one can ruin the earth in just a few years. Modern agricultural technology offers farmers a wide selection of plows for various types of plowing of a wide variety of soils; We will deal with those that you can do yourself in a home workshop.

Types of plowing

Depending on local conditions and soil properties, they are used different kinds cultural and autumn plowing, incl. vintage traditional. In Russian private household plots the land is plowed mainly in 5 ways, i.e. 5 main plowing schemes are used.

Traditional herringbone plowing with a single-share (single-furrow) plow with incomplete rotation of the layer, pos. 1 in the figure, faithfully served the peasants for many millennia. But the reduction in productive areas per eater required intensive use of agrochemicals; Currently, the productive areas, including the needs of livestock and fish farming, remain on Earth about. 20 acres per person; in the Russian Federation - less than half a hectare. At the same time, the land plowed “in the traditional way” turned out to be susceptible to erosion, and the voids under the layers became refuges for pests, pathogens and weeds. Erosion in this case can be avoided if there is a reserve of traction of the power unit, and the ground is not too wet - harrowing is carried out simultaneously with plowing, see fig. below. But with reserves the situation is worse - pressing down on plowing causes anaerobic processes, and the soil suffocates.

Plowing the soil simultaneously with harrowing

Note: The picture above is both a deliberate optical illusion. The tractor driver pulled his T-shirt over the back of his seat and got out of the car. It turned out that there was a headless horseman on a steel horse.

The first way out of the situation was found with the beginning of agricultural mechanization: plowing with multi-furrow plows, pos. 3 in Fig. higher. This optimized the voids under the strata for aeration, but not for nesting of harmful organisms. However, the layers of adjacent rows piled on top of each other like a house or formed a hollow; the first created a reserve of unwanted animals; the second is a source of erosion. Using special plowing techniques, both were avoided, but the energy and labor intensity of tillage became unsatisfactory over time, despite the increase in the number of plow bodies to 20 (!), and soil degradation was still observed.

Currently, a progressive method of plowing productive lands is considered to be plowing with a rotary plow, (not to be confused with a reversible plow, see below), pos. 3 in Fig. above and below rice.

The rotary plow has 2 rows of plowing bodies, with a right and left moldboard. When the traction unit turns to pass the next strip, the bodies (or their rows) are turned over 180 degrees along the axis of the grade (the plow's spinal power beam). Thus, the dump of soil layers in all strips/rows of plowing goes in one direction, and the crests of the layers and the voids under them turn out to be the same. To plow with a multi-body rotary plow, you need a tractor with a special hydraulic system - in addition to conventional hydraulic cylinders, there is also a stepper hydraulic motor for a rotation step of 180 degrees. A rotary plow for a walk-behind tractor or mini-tractor with 1-2 bodies (which in this case is a pair of identical ordinary bodies in a mirror image) can be rotated manually.

Note: using the methods described above, they plow with cultural plows - ordinary, pos. And in Fig. on the right, or high-speed, pos. B. A specialist should give a recommendation for high-speed plowing, but in small private plots it is better not to get carried away with it at all, see below.

When the earth is upside down

Plowing with full rotation of the formation, pos. 4 in Fig. above, the prem. on the recommendation of specialists in 2 cases: in regions subject to wind erosion, and/or as measures for the reclamation of compacted lands, depleted by intensive use. Indications for plowing with full rotation of the formation are:

• The location of the site is in an arid zone, i.e. the average annual evaporation must exceed the average annual precipitation.
• Dry soil - if sand drilling in your area finds high water closer than 7 m to the surface, you cannot plow with a full rotation of the formation.
• The area must be free from pests, phytopathogens and quarantine weeds.
• Annual insolation is no lower than in the black earth zone of the Russian Federation.
• The thickness of the fertile layer (if any) is no more than the maximum plowing depth; usually up to 25 cm.
• The turf is either absent or weak, sparse, and not vegetative by the time of plowing.
• The underlying parent rock (materka) is dense, low permeable, well and deeply structured, i.e. not subject to deep erosion.

However, only a specialist should give a recommendation for plowing with full rotation of the formation. It is under no circumstances recommended to plow in this way at your own discretion, “from scratch” - degradation of soil unsuitable for such cultivation can begin literally in the current season. The worst thing here is the likelihood of deep water soil erosion (suffusion). Sudden deep sinkholes over large areas in places that are in no way susceptible to karst phenomena (for example, in the Novgorod region) are almost always observed where several years ago they plowed with a full rotation of the layer.

To revive the soil

For reclamation, they plow with a full rotation of the formation using a plow with a semi-screw (see figure on the right and below) or screw blade. The first is used on more or less cohesive soils (not very crumbly); the second on loose soils. Plowing for reclamation is necessarily accompanied by other measures of the same purpose:

1. By adding humus mixed with sand, compost, humates.
2. Sowing green manure (live fertilizer) nitrogen-fixing crops (eg legumes).
3. Proper soil cultivation during the growing season.
4. Irrigation or sprinkling over an area (not drip irrigation!) compensating for the difference between evaporation and moisture entering the soil; an alternative is the addition of hydrogel or zeolites.
5. Population of soil-forming organisms: earthworms, etc.

Anti-weathering

Anti-erosion plowing with a full rotation of the layer (the so-called smooth) is carried out with the same plows, depending on the structure of the soil and in compliance with the same initial conditions, plus careful harrowing. Of the following, sufficient soil moisture and cultivation must certainly be observed, but measures for its reclamation will not harm. Anti-erosion plowing is effective only against surface erosion, mainly. wind, but does not save from deep water - the slightest crack in the material exposed to it can become a source of suffusion!

Are we plowing or cultivating?

Smooth plowing, but without soil rotation (non-mouldboard, position 5 in the figure above) is actually soil cultivation as its main tillage. It is carried out on fertile soils that have a great potential for self-healing, but are dense, low permeable and uniform, but too finely structured to a great depth, for example. alluvial. Recommendations for moldless plowing are also given only by a specialist, because in this case, improper plowing will almost certainly cause surface water erosion and soil leaching. The latter is also fraught with the fact that it can cause salinization of adjacent areas, for which the owner of the unfavorable area will have to answer. Loose soils suitable for this are plowed using the no-moldboard method, for example. mountain alluvium, with a moldless plow (pos. A in the figure below), and denser ones (river alluvium) with a cutting plow, pos. B right there.

A special case

There are known types of exceptionally fertile soils that have 100% self-healing ability. As a rule, when dry they are light in color and highly cohesive (hard as stone). When wetted without treatment, they lose cohesion but become impenetrable (turn into sticky mud). Classic example– loess soils of China. Pour them even with ammonal, but they don’t care. Winter winds, which are deadly for unaccustomed people, will still bring from the surrounding mountains the finest mineral dust, saturated nutrients for plants, and compact it into a dry mass (the climate is monsoon) with a strength of approx. like concrete M150, in which nothing harmful can start. In order for this solid to become a fertile substrate for plants, it must be broken into pieces and crushed at the very beginning of the rainy season. This is what a chisel plow does, see fig.

It differs from a chisel cultivator in the spear-shaped (not arrow-shaped) knife, which is the chisel itself, and in the horizontal arrangement of stiffer elastic feathers that shake the incised layer.

Note: Chisel hilling of potatoes is widely used because with minimal soil selection from the row spacing, it pours a high, loose ridge onto the rows, which is what the potatoes need. But chisel plowing is very disturbing for soil that is unsuitable for it due to all factors (see above). There are no large areas of loess-like soils within the Russian Federation, and those available are not allocated for private plots - they are too valuable for non-professional use. Therefore, if you think that your land can be plowed with chisel, be sure to call a specialist for an inspection. It will cost a pretty penny, but there will be more losses from the destroyed land.

How else can you plow, but you don’t have to

In professional agricultural technology, disc and rotary plowing are often used. The body of a disc plow is the same disc of the same cultivator (possibly with wide teeth along the edge). Geometry rotary plow It is technologically simple (see fig.), and there is a great temptation to make it yourself.

But - both plowing is carried out to improve the cultivation or reclamation of initially dead or dying lands (swampy, compacted from erosion, waste). An ordinary fertile layer is a structured and stratified (layered) living formation. Disc and rotary plowing mix it into a homogeneous mass, and the soil can do nothing but die. Maybe not this year, but there’s still no need to plow private household plots with disks and a rotor.

Equipment at work

General diagrams of the design of plowshare plows for small agricultural farms are given in Fig. below. The main parts of a single-body plow for a walk-behind tractor (pos. A), in addition to the plowing body, can be made from corrugated pipe from 60x60x3 and sheet steel from S(3...4). The lateral tilt regulator compensates for the heeling moment from the plow; Using the longitudinal tilt regulator, the optimal dump for a given soil is set. The coupling is rigid (see below), i.e. This plow is trailed. Trailed plows are the least maneuverable, but for a light walk-behind tractor with a single-body plow this is not significant.

Mini tractors and heavy walk-behind tractors are pulled, with a plowing depth of up to 25 cm, plows with 3-4 bodies (pos. B), many of them are equipped with a hydraulic plow lift to the transport position - this means that the plow for a mini tractor or heavy walk-behind tractor is semi-mounted, and the coupling is with one degree of freedom (lifting and lowering). The most maneuverable mounted plows on a free ball hitch are equipped with large traction units with advanced hydraulics.

On the other hand, several hulls create large heeling and lateral turning moments, and it takes a lot of force to pull them through. Therefore, firstly, the beam of a multi-body plow is only part of the supporting frame, usually welded from a channel - the thin walls of the metal profile will not withstand bending and torsional loads. Secondly, the plow is equipped with a field wheel - it rolls, resting on the still untouched soil, otherwise the plow can tilt the tractor on its side, or push it sideways until the plowing error occurs. For more information on how a 2-body homemade plow for a mini tractor works, see the video below:

Video: double-furrow plow for a mini-tractor

Another wheel?

It is difficult to plow a furrow using a plow drawn from an agricultural winch or a manual one - the coupling in both cases is flexible, and the traction unit is weak and/or far away. To properly plow at least half a hectare with a plow with only one field wheel is backbreaking work for an ordinary person. It can be made easier by also equipping the plow with a furrow wheel of a larger diameter than the field wheel (pos. A in Fig. The difference in the radii of the furrow and field wheels is equal to the plowing depth, taking into account the inclination of the furrow wheel bracket, see below. With such a plow it is difficult to make only the first furrow , and then the furrow wheel prevents it from turning sideways. On light walk-behind tractors, craftsmen also often replace one of the wheels with a field wheel, this significantly reduces fuel consumption for plowing and speeds it up. In this case, the field wheel must be made with lugs (pos. B), since the main traction force in this case will fall on it; the remaining “original” wheel will be a furrow wheel.

Additional equipment

A plow equipped only with a plowing body(s) cannot do all the types of plowing described above. Depending on the actual need for cultivating the land, the plow is equipped with additional working parts.

Types of additional equipment for a plowshare plow and its installation dimensions in mm are shown in Fig:

The last point needs clarification. First, the criteria for the suitability of the soil for building up a humus layer are the same as for plowing with a full rotation of the layer for reclamation (see above), and in the same way it is carried out only on the recommendation of a specialist; the plow body(s) is also needed. Secondly, a walk-behind tractor and a mini-tractor most likely will not pull a fully equipped plow with a subsoiler. Therefore, subsoilers for mini agricultural machinery are sold separately (see the figure on the right), they are hung on a row instead of a plowing body, and plowing to build up humus is carried out in 2 steps. Third, under normal conditions for private household plots there is no need to buy expensive additional plow equipment. It makes perfect sense to rent skimmers and subsoilers or ask for a loan from some large agricultural enterprise: they are the same for large and mini agricultural machinery - the land is the same.

Note: The installation dimensions of the plow equipment must be maintained as accurately as possible, and they must be secured securely. This process is called setting up the plow. The procedures for setting up plowshare plows are essentially the same. You can watch the video below about setting up an MTZ type plow (see below).

Video: setting up the MTZ plow

and what to do if the plow for a walk-behind tractor does not maintain the plowing depth:

With or without skimmer?

It is much easier to plow ordinary garden soil with a skimmer. But you need to take into account that plowing with a skimmer leaves large voids under the turned away layers, see fig.

During the rise of new crops, they are useful - they accelerate the cultivation of the soil. But in well-established private household plots, the land is always not entirely favorable both in terms of erosion and harmful organisms. Plowing with a skimmer will greatly disturb it, and an outbreak of both is possible. Therefore, it is not advisable to plow cultivated land with skimmers.

Plowing Corps

The body of a plowshare plow is its main working body, which determines the quality of plowing. Therefore, your choice for your plow on your land must be taken with full responsibility. Construction of the plow body complete set shown in the figure; to plow a certain type of land in a suitable way, the structure of the body can be simplified.

The ploughshare, chisel and the front part of the blade (sometimes called the bib) are most susceptible to wear and therefore are made of steel, with properties similar to tool steel. Uglosnim is usually made replaceable, because with its help you can adjust the final value of one of the working angles that is optimal for a given soil, see below. The blade feather completes the laying of the layer by a full turn, if necessary; the purpose of the remaining parts, we assume, is clear without explanation. There is most often no need to use a ploughshare with a chisel in private household plots, and instead of it a chisel-shaped ploughshare (in the inset) with a knife protrusion is installed that cuts the soil. This makes all the more sense if the owner has difficulty accessing blacksmith work, see below. For non-intensive use in a dacha or personal plot, the body of a plowshare plow can also be made from scrap materials, see video:

Video: plow body made from scrap metal

Note: the knife and bracket of the plow body are often colloquially called paws. According to standard technical terminology both are still a knife and a paw, but in everyday conversation “paw” and “paw” may be more convenient. The author once heard how a collective farm blacksmith said to a helper - a seasoned thief who had just gone into trouble with many years of prison experience - “Well, let’s go, let’s pull back the knives (see below).” He, of course, quickly realized that this was not his zone; slow-witted prisoners do not survive. But the first moment he heard it, his face was worth looking at.

How the plow plows

Behind the plow body there are installed (not visible in the figure above) a field board - a horizontal bar that keeps the plow from burying - and a stop that supports the blade under the pressure of the soil being turned over. These are simple, not particularly critical details; Let's see what they are further. The remaining parts together are a complex device, all components of which must work in harmony. The possibilities for fine-tuning the plow body in its manufacture and operational adjustment are negligible, so again we will have to delve a little deeper into the theory.

Due to the high operational wear and resistance of the material being processed, a simple wedge is taken as the basis for the cutting parts of the plow: the cutting surfaces of a concave profile will instantly crumble, and a convex profile will require an inordinate amount of traction. Plowing the land with a plow can be represented as the action of 3 wedges with angles at the vertices α, β and γ (alpha, beta and gamma wedges); their action is clear from the poses. 1-3 fig.

All three wedges can be combined into an unequal pyramid, pos. 4, but such a plow will greatly disturb the soil, because for different phases of undercutting and formation turnover, the optimal angle values ​​vary greatly. In a plow that turns away the layer smoothly, without disturbing the ground, the values ​​of the angles along its working surface also change smoothly according to certain laws, pos. 5. The equations that describe these laws, as mathematicians say, do not have an analytical solution, i.e. it is impossible to derive any general formula(s) for constructing the working surface of the plow; when designing a specific plow for a specific soil, the equations are solved using numerical methods or. Previously, when there were no computers with sufficient power for this, the same equations were approximated (replaced) by analytical functions that gave satisfactory initial accuracy, and then prototype plows were tested.

Note: When developing a plow, the following are also taken into account: external characteristics traction unit. Their influence has a stronger effect on low powers and high plowing speeds, so branded plows for different walk-behind tractors and mini tractors may not be interchangeable. However, this is more of a marketing move, because... It is still possible to come up with a plow that works well with any walk-behind tractor, see below.

Blade

Within the ploughshare, due to the technological difficulty of its profiling and small width, the angle values ​​are set constant. In this regard, the most critical part of the plow is its moldboard. Working surface the blade should be smooth and also smoothly interface with the ploughshare. The fractures along their length greatly disturb the soil, both by the breaks in the layers of the earth and by the “dance” of the plow itself - earth is not butter.

Technologically available for manufacturing at home, the so-called. radius blades of single curvature, which are part of a cylindrical surface. The dumps of, without exaggeration, the legendary, MTZ type plows were built according to this principle; they are widely used all over the world and in large quantities go for export. The mechanical characteristics of MTZ plows are optimal for ordinary soils of private household plots and low-power traction units.

MTZ designers managed to achieve the desired results by rotating the blade 20 degrees clockwise relative to the generatrix of a cylinder with a diameter of 600 mm, i.e. the radius of curvature of such a blade is 300 mm; its change within small limits practically does not affect the properties of the plow. When forming a blade on a sheet bending machine, the workpiece is placed on rollers under the appropriate conditions. angle (item 1 in the figure), and when cutting out a pipe, its pattern is turned in the same way. A drawing of the development of the MTZ type plow blade for walking plowing speed is given in pos. 3; there is only one curved cut, the rest can be cut out with a grinder.

Blade from a cylinder?

The thickness of the metal on the plow moldboard blank should be from 3 mm. Household gas cylinders have a suitable diameter and almost the same wall thickness, see fig. on right. However, the steel of the cylinder must hold pressure without the possibility of sudden destruction, but its resistance to the abrasive action of the earth is not standardized. At a dacha or personal plot, a plow from a cylinder will probably last long enough, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to plow more or less significant areas with it twice every year for a long period of time.

Note: how to make a simple plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, see the video below:

Video: a simple plow for a walk-behind tractor

Couldn't it be faster?

I want to plow up an area of ​​more than 0.5-1 hectares as quickly as possible and save fuel on this. In this case, you will have to make a plow with a double-curvature blade, which is much more labor-intensive.

For drawings of a plow with a double-curvature blade for accelerated plowing with a walk-behind tractor, see the figure:

Field board 5 – a piece of steel angle from 40x40x2. One way to make the moldboard of this plow, without having a sufficiently powerful sheet bending machine, is to weld strips of wooden template. To prevent the wood from burning during welding, it is first welded with minimal current using short clamps, and the workpiece is completely boiled after removing it from the template. You need to boil it gradually, also using clamps, continuously monitoring the curvature with the same template - it is clear that otherwise the workpiece will move greatly.

ploughshare

The ploughshare is the second most important part of the plow. The main requirements for it are durability and the ability to maintain a given configuration as it wears out, because Restoring a ploughshare is a rather labor-intensive task and requires forging equipment. An additional important thing is that the ploughshare must work normally as part of a plow with any moldboard.

Types of plowshares are shown in Fig; they all work like an αβ wedge. In plows for private household plots, predominant ones are used. trapezoidal and chisel-shaped shares: the first is only for cultural plowing; the second is also for raising the new one. A toothed ploughshare is used to plow soil clogged with roots of trees and bushes; ploughshare with retractable chisel – rocky. The ploughshare magazine is a stock of metal that is pulled onto the worn blade using blacksmithing methods when the ploughshare is restored.

Drawings of trapezoidal and chisel-shaped plowshares for the plow are given in Fig. below:

At home, it will be easier to make a composite ploughshare (drawings on the right in the figure) with a blade from a strip of tool steel. It works on the principle of a rodent cutter: while grinding down, it maintains the sharpening angle. At first, such a plowshare resembles a chisel-shaped one, which is useful when plowing a newly allocated area. As the composite plowshare wears out, it becomes more and more trapezoidal and lasts for several years on ordinary garden soil until the convexity of the front end turns into a fairing. Then the solid steel insert is replaced, and the base can be pulled to the desired configuration using a homemade forge or muffle furnace. An option for attaching a ploughshare to a plow moldboard is shown in the following. rice.:

For more information about restoring a plow share at home, you can watch the video:

Video: restoration of a plow share

About “super-speed” plows

Theoretically maximum speed machining land, which does not immediately deteriorate its quality is 20-24 km/h. But in large-scale agricultural technology, the passion for high-speed and ultra-high-speed plows has long passed: a high-speed plow that disturbs the soil in a 100% reversible manner has never been created. However, amateurs do not stop trying to make a high-speed plow: increasing the plowing speed dramatically reduces wear on the traction unit and fuel consumption. IN Lately In this area, there is an increased interest in Zykov’s plow.

There is no experience of its long-term operation or the results of full field tests. It is likely that the author developed his design independently, but it still resembles something. A filled chest and a developed moldboard wing indicate that this is a high-speed plow, and a low moldboard indicates that it is an ultra-high-speed plow, pos. 1 in Fig. That is, the rejection of the raised layer is partially dynamic, due to the inertia of the moving mass of the earth. The situation becomes even clearer upon careful examination of the plow, pos. 2-4. The axe-shaped ploughshare lies almost flat. Its far extended toe is actually the same chisel of wedges αβ, turning into a pure wedge β, connected to the wedge γ of the blade with a noticeable break (item 4); This is where a shock occurs, throwing the layer away from the plow. All this greatly reduces the required traction force, but this plow actually plows in 3 phases like a simple αβγ pyramid, see above.

Plows of a similar operating principle were designed in the USSR in the late 50s on the initiative of the well-known Trofim Lysenko. There is a semi-legendary story connected with them, which veterans of the agricultural machinery industry told something like this.

Having lost his patron Stalin, Trofim intensively intrigued, trying to ingratiate himself into complete trust in the new ruler. Khrushchev's motto was “Catch up and overtake!”; America, of course. A plow that plows faster than American ones - this should certainly work. The resourceful and nosy idiot with the soul of an executioner-sycophant did not think about his fiasco with the branchy wheat and others, not so loud, and he was not capable of it.

Note: excerpts from Khrushchev's press conference during a visit to the United States: “When will there be communism in the Soviet Union?” - “When will we overtake America in all respects” - “Do you hope for success?” - “We have already overtaken you in steel and cement” - “How many suits will a Soviet worker have under communism?” - "Three".

Whether Nikita the Wonderworker was a notorious fool, a genius in the guise of a pea jester, or the most ordinary mediocrity, a wave of chance elevated to the pinnacle of power, is the fifth issue here. But as a former collective farmer, he knew a lot about farming. Having seen during the tests how the “super plows” were turning the earth, he yelled at everyone and ordered to immediately curtail all work on this “...” Trofim was sent into disgrace, but he avoided the fate of his victims - they even left him the institute in which he, contemplating how employees were leaving and laboratories were emptying, he served out the remainder of his life.

Zykov’s plow was patented and is produced in Ukraine; it is not exported. As for the Russian Federation, there is probably some kind of politics involved here. But even in the West, specialists are familiar with Trofimov’s “razletayki”: they are studied there in universities, respectively. profile. As examples of how not to build plows.

Hitch

The next most important component of a trailed plow is the coupling device with the traction unit. Already a semi-mounted plow is much less sensitive in this regard, because The hydraulic lift allows you to quickly set the plowing depth. But the trailed plow must adhere to the tractor like a glove, because if the plowing body moves in a wave, the earth will be greatly disturbed due to all the factors indicated at the beginning.

The diagram of a rigid coupling of a plowshare plow with a walk-behind tractor/mini tractor is shown on the left in Fig. On the right there are design options for the device for setting the plowing depth; it must be no less rigid and reliable than the hitch.

The design of the coupling assembly is shown on the left in the following. rice; in detail - there on the right. All flat parts are made of steel with a thickness of 6 mm (case stand - from 12 mm). Round – from a rod with a diameter of 12 mm; tilt adjuster screw and handle – from 16 mm.

Winch problems

Winch and hand plow should be as simple as possible in design and light, so that as little effort as possible is spent on moving the plow itself. The most important tasks of their design are setting the plowing depth and compensating for the tendency of the plow to go sideways or fall to one side, because the low weight of the structure itself does not help here. It is also important that if the plow gets stuck and stops (which is by no means impossible, since the draft is weak), then it is impossible to pull it out of place or pull it out and continue the passage without ruining the furrow.

Reliably, but not entirely conveniently, these problems are solved in the design of the well-known winch plow “Feather”, see figure: the plowing depth is set by changing the plowing body or installing wheels of other diameters. The attachment point of the traction cable is located asymmetrically relative to the longitudinal axis of the beam; its position was selected for cultivated soils in the central zone of the Russian Federation. Additionally, the tendency of the plow to go sideways compensates for the separation of the wheel axles along the course of the plow.

The soils are still different everywhere, but keeping a set of wheels for different plowing depths is not so bad. What’s worse is that within the same area, the density and cohesion of the soil can vary markedly; on such a “Feather” driven by a winch with less than 2-3 kW will stand up. For a weak electric winch with single-phase power from a household outlet, or a manual one, the plow is designed for pos. 1 pic. In it, the required traction asymmetry is roughly set by wheel axles of different lengths, and is precisely established by moving and fixing the traction cable clamp. But if its clamp weakens and the clamp slips, this plow will stand with its body in the ground.

The author of the design for pos. 2 was at the disposal of rowers from “real big” agricultural machinery, which solved the problem. The plowing depth is set by turning the bracket (stand in the drawing) of the furrow wheel, and the axles of both wheels are retractable, which makes it possible to quickly and accurately set the traction asymmetry. In previous designs, such a solution is impossible: the deformation of rows made of water supply or corrugated pipe during a jerk of the draft can be reversible and invisible to the eye, but sufficient for the plow to get stuck.

Hand-drawn

Cultural, and even more so autumn plowing and raising of new soil by a pair of workers with a hand plow is hardly possible, even if both are direct descendants of Evpatiy Kolovrat. A manual plow is used primarily in private household plots. like plowing (furrow) on land that has already undergone basic cultivation.

A positive property of manual plowing is the prompt, very sensitive adjustment of the working depth and precise compensation of traction asymmetry without delay; It may take several seconds for the winch cable to respond to the jerk of the plow, which will get stuck during this time. Therefore, almost any hand-pulled cultivator is suitable as a manual paired plow, for example. one, the drawings of which are given in Fig. Its modification is not required, it is enough to replace the cultivating body with a plowing one to a depth of 150-160 mm.

Instead of a conclusion

Well, let’s complete this opus instead of abstract maxims and generally useless wishes in a businesslike manner: in Fig. – a drawing of handles for a hand plow, repeating the handles of a peasant plow. The ergonomics of which have been tested by centuries of experience.