Caring for park roses in the fall preparation for winter. Preparing roses for winter in the middle lane

Park roses love landing in a good lighting area, but partial shade is also possible. In partial shade, their flowering will not be so plentiful. The best for park roses is the south side. There, the plant is darkened for part of the day, which is important in the heat, because it protects it from drying out and burns.

However, if you have such an area occupied, do not worry, a park rose bush can be planted everywhere except in the north (the stems stretch out there, because they see little of the sun (shade prevails), they hardly bloom, more likely to be affected by diseases and insects). The soil should be slightly or moderately acidic (acidity from pH 5.5 -6.5). If you have sandy or heavy soil, you need to compact it with peat, compost, humus, soil in the first case, in the second - loosen it up with sand, peat, humus, compost. It is undesirable to place a bush near trees (their roots pick out a lot of moisture from the soil and nutrients), as well as under the crowns of trees (this way you will artificially create a shadow), and there should be no drafts on the site, i.e. the territory has good ventilation, but not too much, because the bush will develop poorly.

Bushes of park varieties have a closed root system, so the planting time of roses can be different, from May to September. 1-2-year-old (young) bushes take root well in conditions. It should be noted that, planted in the fall, before the arrival of the first frosts (until mid-October), the bushes of park roses will have time to take root, and therefore they will develop better and outpace those plants of this class that were planted in the spring. Pruning is done in the spring, so don't rush to prune your seedlings in the fall. Prepare the ground in advance in order to be in time before frost. The distance between the seedlings should be 1 x 1.5 m or 1 - 1.5 m.The pit should be large enough so that the roots easily lay down (do not bend up), and the grafting site (root collar) was 5-10 cm under the soil ... It is recommended to add humus and peat inside. After that, we fill up the hole and compact it, making a tubercle, which unfolds in April.

Park roses care

Park roses form a root system, strong branches for three years, so care consists in loosening the earth, fertilizing, pruning, watering. A rose requires a lot of water during development (spring) and during the growing season, that is, ripening and flowering (summer). In drought, the plant is watered more often (2-3 times a week). Better watering liquid, but abundant, than frequent, but small. In the sunny season, they do not saturate with water, and also do not do sprinkling (spraying), so that there are no burns and the spread of powdery mildew and other diseases. This process is carried out in the morning or in the evening, water is poured in a stream to the base. Watering the flowers should be stopped at the end of summer (August) so that the shoots are numb and they are not afraid of frost. However, when the fall is dry and there is not enough rainfall, do not forget to water the bushes moderately so that the roots receive moisture. Due to a lack of water, the plant may die.

Fertilization is carried out 4-5 times, after which it is advisable to water the plant. The first - in the spring (nitrogen), the second - during leaf blooming (ammonium nitrate), the third - budding (phosphorus), the fourth - flowering (calcium, phosphorus), the fifth - in the fall (potassium). For the first two years, you can not apply fertilizer if you put manure or humus in the hole during planting, because it takes so much time for its decomposition.

The most important thing in shrub formation is pruning. It regulates the shape and number of shoots. It is absent for the first two years, but then it should be carried out. The bush of park roses has the shape of a bowl, with 5-9 strong shoots, is slightly shortened to a strong superficial bud, keeping the shoots along the entire length (in single doses - dried tips or 2-3 underdeveloped buds), but their number differs from the strength of the bush. It is enough to leave 2-3 - year old skeletal branches. Broken off, small, thin, diseased and frozen, as well as those that grow inward, the branches are cut to live wood. The vegetation of park roses (the appearance of buds, growth) occurs very early, the flowers must be cut in mid-April, to do this, remove the last year's fruits and shoots, did not overwinter. Use well-pointed scissors, pruning shears, and dry, lignified stems with a saw because they are very thick and hard. Coat the cut point oil paint or garden pitch. Remember, the arched branches are completely covered in thorns, which are extremely prickly and wear thick, leather gloves to avoid injury. On once-blooming park roses, the shoots end in flowers that wither and bear fruit in the fall, while the wood ripens to frost. Therefore, the more shoots, the richer the flowering, because the flowers are formed on last year's stems. In repairing park roses, flowers grow back in the process of growth, therefore, flowers and fruits appear at the same time. The bush grows old over time (in 4-5 years), grows strongly and does not have such attractiveness. To restore the previous decorative beauty it is necessary to carry out circumcision rejuvenation. To do this, in the fall, the stems of park roses are cut to the base, non-flowering branches are removed to cause lush growth. Correct pruning you can achieve the formation of good shoots, abundant flowering and a magical crown shape.

Park rose quite winter hardy, only some species need to be easily covered for the winter. We huddle the earth on the base, and wrap the branches with craft paper in 2 layers, which protects from the sun during the thaw and from sudden changes in temperature. The bush possesses unique property restoration, even if the aboveground part did not survive the frost, it will grow back from the base. But it will not bloom in the first year, because flower buds are formed on 2-3 annual shoots, and only in some of them they are formed on the stems of the current year.

The park rose propagates by dividing the bush, layering and green cuttings.

About, how properly cover roses for the winter let's talk in our article. After all, a capricious and majestic rose is an adornment of any garden. At the same time, it requires special care. There are species that tolerate any winter well, and there are those sissies that need certain conditions. Let's get acquainted with the features of the shelter and the best designs for tea - hybrid, climbing, standard, spray and park roses.

Wonderful flowers come from Ancient Rome, where there is no temperature below 3 degrees. And since it is much colder in most of Russia, experts have come up with a way to shelter roses for the winter.

Do I need to cover roses for the winter?

The answer to this question depends on the variety of roses and the weather conditions of a particular region. Age, plant condition, and shelter options do not greatly affect how plants tolerate cold temperatures. When purchasing a particular type of flowers, you can clarify whether they should be covered. If the climate is warm and winters are mild, then some do not even winter hardy varieties can carry it without shelter.

The most winter-hardy species are:

park varieties (Ritausma, Pink Grothendorst, Konrad Ferdinand Meyer, Hansa, Lavinia, Adelaide Hutles);
species or rose hips (Nitida, Glauka, Wrinkled);
winter-hardy varieties (Scabroza, John Davis, Snow Pavel, Jens Munch, Hansa);
some hybrid species (Alba, Spinozissima, Rugosa).

All other types are advised by experts to cover.

When to harbor?

Bush roses can be covered at the end of October. If done earlier, when it is still warm, the temperature in the shelter may rise, causing roots and shoots to develop. Considering that the moisture content of the soil rises, moisture accumulates, the roots can rot. Therefore, when the temperature drops to -5 degrees for more than 7 days, you can cover the roses for the winter.

Flowers tolerate the first frosts up to - 7 degrees. It is recommended that it is in this weather that you begin to cover the bushes. Roses enter a dormant state, stems and roots are hardened.

But it all depends on weather conditions, the onset of cold weather and the climate of the region.

In outskirts of Moscow roses cover approximately at the end of October. The term may vary, the main thing is that during the week the temperature varies between + 5-7.
In the Urals, in Siberia roses are covered in September, because the temperature drops earlier. It is recommended to cover it in several layers, because winters in the Urals are harsh and the plant needs additional protection.

Advice from experienced florists! The main condition for a good wintering of roses can be safely called a dry shelter. Do not cover wet bushes or use wet foliage, drip in wet soil or covering material. Due to humidity, rot may appear, pests will start and the roses will get sick.

Step by step guide

Stage one: preparation

Before winter, it is necessary to carry out protective measures for roses.

During flowering, the plant is depleted, nutrient reserves from the soil are consumed. Therefore, fertilizers should be special in the fall so that the plant does not gain green mass, but prepares for frost.

For 10 liters of water, you need to take 16 g of potassium monophosphate, 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate and 2.5 g of boric acid. Apply 4-5 liters of the resulting fertilizer to each bush.
The folk method of feeding is a banana peel or wood ash(for 1 sq. m. you need 3 liters of a bank). In this composition, there is a sufficient amount of potassium and calcium.
Complex fertilizer "Autumn", which is specially created in order to prepare the roots of roses for winter.
Bushes are treated with fungicides, Fitosporin-M or 5% copper sulfate solution.

Roses must be fully ripe before they can be covered. Approximately 3-4 weeks before covering, you need to stop cutting flowers for bouquets. This rule applies to young roses that were cut for the first time this year. They must bloom, thereby naturally stop the growing season.

Advice! After pruning, roses must be treated with a disinfectant. The bushes are piled up to a height of 30 cm. After that, the roses are ready for shelter for the winter.

Different varieties of roses have different term falling foliage. But all the leaves must be plucked or cut off. This will put the plant in a dormant state and reduce the risk of infection.
In order to disinfect the above-ground parts of the bushes, it is necessary to treat them with a solution of ferrous sulfate or a fungicide before sheltering. The land under the bushes should be cleared of debris and weeds.

Watch the video! How to properly cover roses for the winter

Stage two: trimming or folding

Park and climbing rose varieties do not need to be cut. Some bush varieties and climbing species that are sensitive to cold weather, it is necessary to gradually, 3-4 weeks before the shelter, put on supports, which fall lower and lower, so as not to damage or break the stiff stems. This should be done gradually and carefully.

Park roses- bend or trim?

Opinions are divided here. Someone leaves roses for the winter without pruning, so that they can transfer it better. Such a plant will wake up earlier in the spring and it is unlikely that new shoots will be released. But there is a downside to this coin: the smaller the aerial part of the bush, the better it will withstand frosts. In addition, leaving the tops of the stems increases the risk of developing bacteria. Therefore, it is still recommended to do pruning.

The presented Photo four stages of insulation of stamped roses are visible. The roots are dug in if the trunks are not bent well. The leafy part is covered with spruce branches or dry foliage, and covered with lutrasil on top.

How to bend bushes correctly roses?

The dense and not flexible stems are bent down in several stages, as mentioned above. You can use old construction rods or rods. Such material bends easily, fits well into the ground and can last for more than one year.
So that the bush becomes mobile and bent over without damage to the plant, you should carefully dig it with a pitchfork two or three times. At the same time, do not dig it out strongly.
If the bush has been grafted, it should bend towards the side of the graft. This is done so as not to break the stem from a heavy load.

Stamping and climbing roses they are removed from the supports and laid on the ground.

Watch the video! Pruning and covering roses for the winter

Stage Three: Covering

How and what to properly cover roses for the winter? There are two types of shelter: air dry or wrap.

It is necessary to dig in like this: the prepared bushes are covered with earth by 20-40 cm of the height of the stems. The upper shoots are completely covered with dry foliage. Or roses are completely buried in the ground;
The air type of shelter is the insulation of the roots with foliage or spruce branches, and the above-ground part - with a structure made of any materials: plywood or plastic;
There is an option for wrapping roses, for this it is used thermal insulation material eg geotextile fabric.

Features of the shelter of different types

Experienced gardeners give hiding tips different types roses for the winter.

Climbing rose... The stems of this species are not pruned for the winter. Healthy shoots are pinched, and only sick ones cut out. You should be careful with long rose loops, which are covered with earth. For them, you should carefully prepare the place, pour a layer of sand, and a layer of spruce branches on top. The lashes removed from the support are carefully laid on this pillow. On top of them lay another layer of spruce branches, and on top of the film.

There is another option for warming climbing roses. A plait is made of lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective frame made of wood or lutrasil is made above them, and covered with a film on top.

Park roses... Most of the varieties of this species are frost-resistant. But young bushes should be covered for the winter. If the winter is predicted to be cold and severe frosts are expected, then you can cover the park rose with a dry method or a ditch.
Tea-hybrid the Rose... For this species, a standard hilling or frame will be a good protection against low temperatures. And the use of spruce branches as an addition will make the winter more comfortable for the tea rose.

Watch the video! Bending and pruning climbing roses

The three most popular constructions for sheltering roses

Wireframe method

You can build a frame using a base of metal rods. They are folded into an arc, with the edges deepened into the ground.
It is better to cover it with insulating material after the onset of the first frost. When the temperature drops below 0 degrees for 7 days, the frame can be insulated.
The frame is covered with huddled bushes. For it, you can take the above-mentioned metal rods, old wicker baskets, large plastic flowerpots, boards, and more. The frame is constructed in this way:
the place around the bush is marked;
a shelter or dome is formed;
covered with covering material, and the plant is sprinkled with foliage or needles, especially if a cold winter is expected;
from all sides the insulation is pressed with bricks along the edges so that the roses can be ventilated.

This method is convenient for large rose gardens and flower beds. Insulation is pulled onto the frame, if necessary in two layers, it is pressed from below with boards or bricks.

Frame shelters can be of several types:

from the rods, you can make a small conical frame for undersized species, or a large spherical, or cone-shaped for bush varieties.
Can be made from wooden beams... The base of the frame is in the center of the flower bed, and metal rods are stuck in arcs from both sides. Covering material is pulled from above.
You can take three iron rods, stick them around the bush and wire them together. Insulation is stretched from above. For bushes that grow sparsely, this method is very convenient.
For Moscow region and central Russia use air dry shelter... A frame is installed on the prepared, hilled bush, and insulation is wrapped on top, which is fixed with a rope.

Fence with embankment

The essence of this method is that a fence is made around the bush, insulation is poured inside: foliage, needles, hay, etc. You can use mesh, plywood, cardboard. A fence is made according to the height and width of the bush. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap it in polyethylene so that the insulation does not spill out.

Lutrasil cocoon

Tall varieties, especially standard ones, are often insulated, leaving the stem on the support, and the crown is wrapped with a covering material.

In this case, the root must be earthed. You can wrap the cocoon with lutrasil or other insulation.

You should tie up the bottom so that cold air did not enter.

Advice! In rainy weather, it is better to protect the bush from excess moisture. For this, water is diverted from the rose garden, and the bushes are additionally covered with plastic wrap.

Conclusion

It is worth noting that even if roses grow in warm winters, where the weather is about -5 -10 degrees, they should still be insulated for the winter. Not only is it protection from cold, it is also a method of preventing the development of rot, late blight and other diseases. The main thing in this is to pick up suitable for the type roses and the type of climate, a shelter method, then the rose gardens will be healthy and beautiful.

Watch the video! How to cover roses for the winter: the surest way

The main thing in caring for park roses- annual small formative pruning. Young bushes are practically not cut for the first two years after planting. Pruning park roses involves removing old, weak and damaged branches. Withered flowers can be removed, but some varieties of park roses produce large, beautiful fruits that adorn the garden even in winter.

Cut off park roses with well-honed pruning shears, old stems are cut out. Slices must be covered with garden varnish or oil paint. Park roses are very prickly; pruning should be done in thick, preferably leather gloves and a canvas apron.

The shoots left are shortened only slightly. Shoots of roses of grandiflora and remontant roses are shortened by half their length, leaving 5-7 buds. Climbing roses have 5–6 strong annual shoots. If there are few of them, then part of the two-year-olds are preserved, while shortening the lateral shoots.

In the fall, for greater convenience of shelter, climbing roses are cut off. For example, “Guna”, “Parsla” are recommended to be shortened by 1/3 in spring, and such species as “Fruhlingsgold” are recommended to be bent to the ground.

Rejuvenate park roses by vigorously pruning to the base of the bush to stimulate growth. If the young stems have been severely damaged by frost, they are cut to the surface of the soil, and the bush is created from several old branches.

Old branches are cut in late July - early August. This process is carried out with the simultaneous strengthening of organic and mineral nutrition. By pruning and shortening individual shoots of park roses, you can achieve abundant flowering next year, as well as the necessary direction of crown development and the formation of strong shoots.

Planting park roses
In autumn, the soil for planting roses is dug to a depth of 40-50 cm and large doses of organic fertilizers are applied, as well as full set mineral fertilizers and oven ash.

The best time to plant park roses is early spring, before bud break.

When planting in autumn, they make high, up to 25 cm, mounds, they are left for the whole winter to protect from frost. Before planting, the shoots are short, and the roots are significantly cut off. Pruning vigorously will help rejuvenate the plants.

For better survival rate the roots should be moistened in a solution of mullein and clay (at a ratio of 3: 1), adding 1 tablet of heteroauxin, previously dissolved in water, to 1 bucket of solution.

Park roses must be planted in pits, the depth and width of which will allow their root system to be freely placed. The planted bushes are watered and sprinkled abundantly. Park roses are good for single plantings.

Pick-up location
Park roses are the most decorative frost-resistant rose hips, their decorative forms and varieties hibernate without or with light cover. Primarily for good development park roses need a free, bright, sunny, well-ventilated place.

The presence of full shade is directly contraindicated for park roses - their infection with various diseases is possible, as well as partial freezing in winter. However, park roses can grow in partial shade, but then they do not bloom so profusely. Experts note that it is undesirable to plant park roses close to large trees.

Shelter of park roses for the winter
Preparations for preserving roses begin well in advance. As early as August, you should stop cutting flowers, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots and, accordingly, better wintering. At the same time, it is recommended to stop loosening and watering, but weeding must be done. Before the onset of the first frost, the bushes should be covered with loose earth or peat by 15–20 cm.

The best insulating material for park roses is spruce branches, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20–30 cm, and put a film on top and sprinkle a small layer of peat or earth on it. A dry method of sheltering roses is considered more reliable, which consists in the fact that wooden supports or boxes with a height of 30-40 cm are installed along the ridges, shields or boards are placed on top of them close to each other. Until heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing tar to keep the soil dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or tar paper.

Rose care
During the summer, park roses need to be systematically fed, watered, loosened and hilled. Watering abundantly every 7-10 days (depending on the weather) promotes good continuous growth and flowering of roses. Proper watering park roses are needed around a bush or a special furrow, which are then leveled.

For the correct growth of park roses, the constant maintenance of the soil in a loose state is necessary. This is done to prevent the formation of a crust that interferes with the access of air to the roots. The lower part of the stems is spud 7–10 cm, which helps to retain moisture at the roots and, therefore, prevents the young shoots from drying out.

Feeding roses during the season ranges from 3 to 4 times. The first feeding is observed in early spring at the very beginning of plant growth (20-30 g of nitrogen, 40-50 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers), the second - during the budding period - infusion of mullein (for 1 bucket of mullein 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers). The third - before the beginning of the second flowering - infusion of mullein with the addition of 10-15 g of nitrogen, 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers, 50-60 g of phosphorus. For young plants, the average feeding parameter is 1 bucket per 2-3 plants, for adult plants - 1 bucket per bush.

Roses need enough moisture. She needs it most of all during the period of intensive development in spring, as well as in June and early July. Excessive watering will do more harm than good. It is forbidden to water park roses in extreme heat, and it is also not recommended to wet the leaves when watering, as this can cause the appearance of diseases.

Excess water at the end of summer provokes a strong growth of park roses, as a result of which the shoots do not have time to completely lignify, and frost can easily damage them. Therefore, experts do not recommend watering roses in rainy autumn weather. If there is a dry autumn, watering the roses is permissible. In the absence of rain, plants should be watered 2-3 times a week, while saturating the soil (to a depth of 50 cm).

Each rose, but especially a park rose, can perfectly decorate any garden. Due to their unpretentiousness, frost resistance and long flowering, these rose bushes can be used in any setting. It is also convenient for them to decode arched openings, gazebos, facades. Rose will look good at background flower beds.

It is customary to refer to the varieties of park roses as decorative rose hips. They begin to bloom very actively and earlier than other species, while emitting a light sweetish smell.

In Russia, it is customary to use the following pink varieties:

The rose is wrinkled. A large plant, reaching a height of two meters. It got its name from the wrinkled foliage. Flowers, 10 cm in size, strong smell... The rose bloom continues for a long time, with the greatest activity occurring at the beginning of summer.

Rose is white. It has spreading bushes that grow no less than two meters in height. The fragrant six-centimeter flowers begin to bloom in the middle of summer.

The rose is prickly. It can be grown from seeds even in a difficult climate for plant development. This variety got its name thanks to the thorns covering the shoots. Already in the first days of May, wide rose bushes, reaching a height of two meters, begin to be covered with small flowers with a pleasant aroma.

French rose. Cultivation has been going on for over a century. This variety tolerates cold weather. The bush usually grows up to one and a half meters in height. Abundant flowering starts in the first month of summer. The flowers, as a rule, are large in size and have a pleasant light aroma, color palette varied.

Also in the gardens you can now find English and Canadian rose varieties. These plants are beautiful, have large flowers. They firmly endure adverse environmental conditions and do not succumb to the harmful effects of most pathogens, which are harmful to roses.

Canadian park roses

Canadian varieties park roses were bred specifically for cool climates. They take root well in the regions of Central Russia, while in the southern regions they get hot and may lack water. These roses can withstand temperatures as low as -35 degrees.

John Davis. Has a pinkish tint flowers classic form with a sweetish aroma. In size, the bush usually reaches a height of two and a half meters, but no more than two in width. Roses bloom all summer before the onset of cold weather.

John Franklin. A neatly shaped rose bush, reaching about 100 cm wide, about 120 cm high. Terry reddish flowers have fringed petals and outwardly they look more like a carnation. A light pleasant aroma is felt. Flowering of this variety with medium-sized inflorescences or individual flowers occurs throughout the summer.

Morden Sunrise. Frost-resistant variety characterized by orange with pink... Their flowers are about 8 cm in diameter. The bush can grow up to 1 meter in height and 70 cm in width, and it is also highly resistant to many diseases.

English park roses

English park varieties of roses have flowers of a special shape, which in size reach 12 cm, they also have beautiful formation bush and minimum maintenance requirements. Usually it is a spreading plant that is covered with heavy double flowers with a pleasant smell.

Abraham Derby. It was bred by breeders in 1985. The flowers are large in size, with a classic cup-shaped shape, and have a light fruity smell. The color is apricot, the edging is pink. The color peculiarity is more pronounced in cold weather. At the end of the shoots there are usually 1 to 3 peduncles. This variety is characterized by fast growth, high disease resistance and two flowering waves.

Benjamin Britten. A variety of roses, bred only in 2001. The rose bushes are strong, but small in size (they reach no more than one meter in height), bloom profusely. The flowers are large in size and have a deep bowl-like shape, with a fruity aroma with characteristic wine notes. The color is intensely bright, reddish with orange tint... The variety has a high resistance to diseases, undemanding to environmental conditions, except that it just does not like rain.

William Shakespeare 2000. It was specially bred as a replacement for rose bushes of the William Shakespeare variety. It has gained even greater resistance to the harmful effects of the environment, many diseases and insect pests. The bright red double flowers give off a pleasant aroma. On each shoot, several flowers bloom at once, lasting for about 14 days. At the beginning of flowering, they have a deep bowl shape, but later become flatter.

Choosing a site for planting

Before you start planting a plant, you should decide on a place. For this culture, a well-lit area with the sun is more suitable, which will be well ventilated from each side. However, it is possible to place the future bush in partial shade - this is not critical. When planting a rose, you need to take into account the composition of the soil.

For park varieties, soil is suitable:

contains many nutrients;
loose in structure;
light;
characterized by a high presence of humus in the composition with a total acidity of pH 6-7.

Loam most of all corresponds to such characteristics. If the planting is carried out in sandy soil, then it will be necessary to add fertilizers corresponding to the composition.

Planting park roses

After choosing a suitable soil, you should proceed to planting a rose. In this case, it will be necessary to decide on the landing scheme and prepare the holes for disembarkation.

Hole preparation

The hole dug for the future bush should be deep, 5-10 cm larger than the root system, in order to enable all roots to straighten freely there. After all, it is categorically not recommended to allow the curvature or bending of the root system, since this will primarily affect the condition and health of the plant.

Landing patterns

It will not be difficult to create a beautifully decorated flower bed with roses yourself if you know the basic rules for composing a composition and the principles of combining different pink varieties.

As an element of such a composition, a rose is an extremely versatile plant - it can act as a key element, or it can become a harmonious addition to other floral plants.

First you need to decide on the type of flower garden:

A flowering border is considered an elemental form. To create such a flower bed, you need to plant park roses along the paths, while combining them with tea or other varieties of flowers. Most often, the placement of plants occurs in a checkerboard pattern.
Bright border Mixborder is a mixed type of flower garden, in which there are different types of flowers. Before you start planting roses in a flower bed, you will need to pick up neighboring plants so that they bloom at different times. Large bushes are placed in the background of the composition, medium, spectacularly blooming - in the center, small - in front.

Caring for park roses

When growing park roses, you should understand that they need to provide special care... Only in this case they will grow beautiful and resistant to various diseases.

Watering, loosening and mulching

Starting in spring, planted plants need watering every two days if the weather is dry or the soil does not hold water well, otherwise weekly watering will suffice.

Water is especially needed by rose bushes during growth, bud formation and flowering. If there is a lack of it, the shoots stop growing, starting to fade, the flowers become smaller, the foliage falls off.

For one bush, ten liters will be enough. Special attention should be given to watering in the summer. In autumn, it should be reduced, and then completely stopped. Watering should be done carefully and only at the root, because otherwise the rose may be damaged by various diseases.

The day after the watering of the plant is carried out, one should proceed to loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm to improve its water permeability and provide the root system with air, as well as remove weeds. To prevent possible root damage in this situation, this procedure must be carried out with caution.

Then you should go on to mulching, for which you need to cover the soil around the rose with a five-centimeter layer of loose organic material... This will prevent moisture evaporation and keep it more in the ground during drought, reduce the number of growing weeds near growing, protect the bushes from overheating and drying out in heat and windy weather.

Usually the mulch is chopped straw and bark, humus from leaves, compost, which can not only improve the structure of the soil, but also provide the bush with additional nutrients.

As a rule, mulching begins in the last days of April - May, but it is possible to carry it out in the fall, while the soil has not cooled down at all. Before starting this procedure, you need to weed the soil. After the mulch turns into humus, it mixes with the soil in the process of loosening, and soon mulching must be carried out again.

Fertilizers for growing park roses

Roses react extremely positively to fertilization. You can feed them both liquid and dry, and foliar. The latter type of feeding is very effective, because in a short time after the composition is applied to the foliage, its components will end up in the cell sap of the plant. This helps to increase the number and size of flowers, improve the condition of the rose bush.

At the first time after planting in the soil, if it has been sufficiently fertilized in advance, additional fertilizing is not required. After the buds are removed, it is better to feed the plant with liquid organic fertilizers.

In subsequent years, it is necessary to regularly feed the roses. During the season, it is required to perform about seven dressings with fertilizers of organic and mineral type complementary to each other. The bush feeds on minerals, but organic fertilizer, succumbing to slow decomposition, helps to assimilate them.

Nitrogen has a beneficial effect on the growth of foliage and stems, the green mass of the plant, phosphorus promotes the growth of the root system and shoots, reduces the time before flowering, potassium helps to form high-quality flowers, and also increases the resistance to drought and diseases. For this reason, rose bushes need complex feeding.

The approximate rate of fertilizers per 1 square meter: ammonium nitrate - 20 g, superphosphate - 30 g, potassium salt - 10 g.

Pruning and shaping a park rose bush

Pruning is considered a basic requirement for vigorous growth and flowering of rose bushes. It is required to be carried out every year. This leads to the disposal of the plant from old branches, new stems are formed faster, leaves appear, providing excellent growth and flowering.

Pruning can be spring, summer and autumn, that is, they differ in time, and strong, medium, weak - in intensity. At the same time, in the first case, the stem is removed at the level of three, in the second - five and in the third - ten buds.

Also, young seedlings, in order to get developed rose bushes, need to be formed, for which you need to pinch the stems when the fourth leaf appears. At the first time after planting, they need to remove all the buds when they reach the size of a pea.

Pinching allows new stems to appear and develop, which contributes to the formation of a bush with several symmetrical shoots.

At the end of summer, the forming process can be completed, giving the rose the opportunity to bloom. If the branches and buds do not pinch, then at the end of flowering, the plant will stop growing until autumn, it will be poorly formed and developed, and this will lead to a decrease in frost resistance.

How park roses reproduce

Reproduction of park roses is carried out by the following methods:

layering - in the spring, the stems bend to the ground and are fixed there, after which they are sprinkled with soil. The next year they are separated from mother plant;
undergrowth - offspring, whose age is about a year, must be separated from the bush in the spring, after which the stem is shortened by a third and transplanted;
dividing the bushes - carried out using garden shears in the first spring or autumn month years (each separated part of the bush must have roots and at least one stem);
lignified or green cuttings - the first must be prepared in the fall, buried in the sand, and planted in the spring, the second - during the flowering period.

Shelter of park roses for the winter

Before covering park roses, you need to bend their stems.

Roses bend down gradually so that the trunks do not break. For the success of the operation, you need to dig in the roots a little from either side, and then tilt the rose. Only fixing the stem with staples or tying the branches, pressing them with any materials, will prevent it from returning again to the vertical state.

If, in the process of bending park roses, the root comes off a little from the soil, this will not harm the plant - it will recover in spring.

Prevention of diseases and pests

This plant is often affected by diseases such as spheroteca and powdery mildew. They are dangerous in that they can cause the death of rose bushes.

In the form of preventive measures, before the beginning of the growing season, park roses should be sprayed with a solution based on ferrous sulfate. During flowering, modern preparations are used.

The most dangerous insect pests that have a detrimental effect on roses are garden beetles and raspberry weevils, leaf rollers and spider mites. The pests, or rather, their larvae, mostly damage the buds. Adult insects attack mainly buds, leaves and flowers.

To avoid the appearance of pests, you will have to resort to the following measures:

water only the trunk, being careful not to moisten the soil and root system;
you need to feed the bushes on time;
loosening of the earth should be carried out regularly;
remove weeds.

If insect pests appear, then the rose is sprayed with products belonging to the category of avermectin preparations. They are Aktofit, Fitoverm and Vermitek. These funds get rid of adults and larvae.

The following diseases are most often found in park rose bushes:

Powdery mildew- manifests itself on a plant both in open ground and in a greenhouse. It affects rose bushes in July-August, quickly moves to plants growing nearby (the rate of spread of the disease increases in cool rainy weather). A whitish bloom appears on the leaves, stem and buds, which later turns brown. Leaves begin to curl up and fall, the buds dry, the rose withers. Powdery mildew affects the species and varieties of rose bushes in different ways. The defeat of plants, which are distinguished by thick and leathery leaves, occurs less often than those whose leaves are thinner and more tender.
Black leaf spot - damages the leaves usually in August.
Rust - This disease is caused by a fungus that infects foliage and bark. The disease affects especially park roses.
Star rust - appears on almost all types and varieties of roses. The plant often affects the plant already in June - August. Blackish, round spots appear along the edge of the foliage, sometimes on the stems. If the disease progresses, then the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. The bushes are weakening and next year the rose hardly sprouts.
Pink rust - Infected plants develop small orange pads on foliage and shoots. The spread of the disease occurs due to the spores of the fungus. Defeat different types and varieties is not the same: red-leaved and remontant rose bushes are characterized by low resistance, and tea, polyanthus roses have the greatest resistance.

Among the pests, there are:

The brushfish resembles a fly; the back of the insect is yellowish in color. In summer, the insect damages the tops of young shoots and produces eggs, from which greenish larvae that feed on foliage hatch.
In late spring, the rose borer lays eggs on the tips of young rose stems.
Aphids - colonies of insects settle on all parts of the plant. Pests feed on sap sucked from tissues, which makes the plants weaken, foliage and shoots twist. Aphids reproduce quickly, several generations grow in open soil.
Leaf rollers are small butterflies. In early summer, eggs are laid on the tips of young stems. Caterpillars damage foliage and young buds, entangle them with cobwebs and roll up a tube. Insects unite the edges of the leaves.
Rose cicada is a small flying pest. In autumn, eggs are laid at the ends of the stems. In the spring, larvae appear from them.
Spider mite damages rose bushes in hot and dry weather. It settles on the leaves from below, feeding on the juice, the pulp of the leaves, entangling them with a cobweb. Yellowing, drying and shedding of foliage occurs.
Click beetle - larvae overeat roots, stems of rose bushes. This insect loves moisture. In the spring, they begin to collect in the upper layer of the soil, and when the soil dries up, they sink deeper.

Finally, it should be noted that for proper care for the plant and timely implementation of preventive measures, it will be possible to avoid the appearance of pests and diseases. Follow the recommendations and the rose bushes will grow strong and beautiful.