Furniture edge sticker. Glue the edge on the tabletop with your own hands

Hello dear friends!

As a rule, a melamine (paper) edge is glued on its own, and 0.5 mm thick.

Although, I believe that everything that can be ordered cheaply on the side should be ordered, freeing yourself from unnecessary routine work.

But still there are times when this procedure has to be done by yourself.

I generally do not recommend processing the ends of parts with a melamine edge, since the savings are cheap, and the quality of such a product will be low.

But PVC can sometimes be glued (but not thick, so if its thickness is 2 mm, then special equipment will be needed for such an operation).

So, what is needed for gluing?

First, you need special stops into which the part is inserted.

They are usually made from chipboard waste on their own (they are clearly visible in the photographs).

At a minimum, there should be two of them, in case the part is large.

Secondly, you need an iron.

It should be heavy, and on a spiral (old versions). In this case, he will keep a high temperature for a long time (it is measured visually, with a finger on which saliva).

Such irons can be bought at flea markets.

Warm it up and try it.

It should not burn the edge, but it should also melt the glue that is applied to its reverse side well.

The measure of all this, of course, is experience. You need to try a couple of times, and everything will become clear.

Further, you need to have either a sharp knife, or a scalpel, or a razor, etc. They cut off the excess edge hanging from the edges of the part.

And the last thing you need is a bar on which a small “knife” is stuffed. She smoothes the machined ends.

This is done so that the glued edge cannot be accidentally torn off.

Yes, I forgot. You need another piece of felt, which is pressed against the newly glued edge.

And the process itself is quite simple.

The part is set on the stop.

According to its size, a piece of the edge is broken off (cut off) (with a small margin) and lies on the desired edge.

After that, it is carried out with a heated iron “under pressure”, at the same time, rubbing the glued part of the part with felt with force.

When the edge has "grabbed", it is cut off with a knife.

This operation must be done correctly.

The blade of the knife should go along the plane of the part, thus cutting off the protruding part of the edge evenly.

If it goes at an angle to the plane of the part, it will constantly “cut” into the corner face, and this will leave chips.

After the remnants are cut off from the part, all edges along the edges of the part are rubbed with a “knife”.

If the detail is, or with roundings, then the situation is more complicated.

First, you need to process such a part with a milling cutter so that it has the correct edges, and only after that proceed to gluing.

But in this case, the whole procedure, of course, will be more complicated.

Therefore, I repeat: order these things “on the side”.

That's all.

It often happens that the furniture in the house is exposed to various kinds of influences: mechanical damage when moving or moving, temperature differences (for example, in winter time), excess moisture.

Cabinet furniture deteriorates, and, as a rule, the ends of the chipboard “suffer”: chips, cracks form, and sometimes the poorly applied edge peels off.

The modern consumer is trying to save on everything, including the services of furniture studios. As a rule, this is caused by the idea that furniture makers "lift up" the price for their work, the fear of poor-quality repairs and, of course, the lack of free time.

Thus, the consumer is trying to solve the problem on his own, entrusting the repair of furniture entirely to himself or to familiar "craftsmen". Let's try to figure out what this can lead to.

First, it is worth noting that an ordinary person does not have any professional equipment at hand, as, say, on manufacturing enterprises. No machines, no suitable materials, which, by the way, are also not always available to the average consumer, and who does not understand them at all.

So, for example, not everyone knows that the pvc edge protecting the ends of the chipboard comes with and without an adhesive base. Not to mention the variety of edging material: from the simplest melamine edging to ABS edging.

What does the consumer do in this case? Trying to understand the intricacies spends a lot of time studying the issue. As a result, he decides to use improvised means.

It is also worth adding that not everywhere it will be possible to purchase an edge of the required color, which completely matches the color of the furniture. To do this, you need at least to know the nomenclature of decors of laminated chipboard of various brands.

Needless to say, not all sellers of fittings have an edge of the required color in stock and are ready to sell "by the meter". AT modern economy Most shops just don't like it.

Now about the gluing process itself. To begin with, you will need to disassemble the furniture yourself, and after taking out the restored part, prepare it for further processing, which is already difficult at home: disassembled furniture takes up enough space at home, interferes with you and your loved ones.

To glue the edges with an adhesive base, many use a building hair dryer or iron. With the help of these devices, a strong heating of the adhesive layer occurs, after which such an edge should be immediately glued to the end of the chipboard. This must be done quickly, as the glue cools quickly enough.

Which, by the way, does not happen on the machine, where the glue is fed from special bath that maintains the desired temperature.

But, if even a very large plate is processed on a machine in a matter of seconds, then at home it can take much longer. more time. After all, it is not only important to apply the edge very evenly on the end of the plate, it is also necessary to smooth it and press it in such a way that it does not move away before the glue hardens.

For gluing the edges without an adhesive base, some even use the popular Moment glue among the people. Which, although it grasps various surfaces quite well, is still not able to withstand heavy loads on the surface.

Thus, I would like to summarize the above, bringing together all the pros and cons of repairing furniture at home.

Minuses:

• intense search and purchase necessary materials for furniture repair
• energy consumption for work heating appliances high power
• lack of skills and knowledge, time and place for work
• a significant waste of time, effort and money.

Pros:

• no need to contact "doubtful" companies
• the opportunity to show off the result to friends. Of course, if such a result is achieved.

Otherwise, the consumer will simply lose a lot of time and nerves. You will have to get rid of damaged furniture and hastily acquire a new one. And this is already a lot of money.

So what's the best way to do it? Of course, we recommend always contacting professionals. Few people know, but now most of the ateliers provide such a service for edgebanding laminated chipboard.

What does it mean? And the fact that experts will pick up the edge required size and colors, competently stick it on the chipboard, carefully assemble and disassemble, deliver the furniture.

It is obvious that this best option save time and Money. If you still have doubts about the work of professional furniture makers, we recommend that you look at a professional machine.

In our company, you always have the opportunity to choose the desired color and decor of the edging material for almost any chipboard. Full as always available on our website.

Melamine edge, despite the fact that it was invented a long time ago, is still widely used in the manufacture of modern cabinet furniture. Also appeared today and purchased wide use its competitors (PVC and ABS edging), which, however, do not affect the popularity of melamine edging.

Among its main advantages, one can single out such qualities as low cost and ease of sticker and processing (no complicated equipment is required, everything you need is available in any modern home but we'll talk about that a bit later). The main disadvantage of such edging material is the low mechanical strength(Where the PVC is only a little washed out, the melamine will chip off).

In general, this type of edging materials has firmly established itself in small workshops and does not intend to leave them.

We will analyze the process of edging with a melamine edge in detail. The edge itself is sold with hot-melt adhesive applied to its inner edge (visible in the photo as a fine mesh).

For work, we need an iron, scissors, a metal ruler, a block with fine sandpaper and a glove. It is enough to pull the glove on left hand(in the right there will be a tool).

We put the part on the end (you can fix it in a vice or other clamp so that it does not fall). We put an edge on it, making a small overhang from the end.

We iron the edge heated to medium values ​​​​(when overheated, the glue boils and the edge bubbles, after which it can be torn off and thrown away) with an iron, the edge first towards the left hand.

Unfortunately, both hands do not get into the frame, since I still cannot work with them and the camera at the same time.

At the same time, it is advisable to hold the iron perpendicular to the part with the spout towards you (the fact is that Soviet models have a slight concavity on the sole, which prevents the edge from being pressed tightly against the surface, but back and forth so that the wire does not interfere with work). Maybe you will find a more comfortable position for the iron, but this is how I do it. The first movement of the iron goes to the left hand, while it aligns the position of the edge. In this case, the tape initially adheres to the surface. Then we lead the iron in the opposite direction, rolling it with the palm of the left after it.

We remove the iron and continue to press the edge until the glue cools (4-6 hand movements).

With scissors, cut the tape "to the edge" from the main tape.

Immediately turn the workpiece over and cut off the edge with reverse side.

Thus, overhangs are removed from the ends of the workpiece. And it turns out flush with its butt. For this, manufacturers offer special end cutters, but, as can be seen from the photo, it turns out no worse with scissors.

Now we move on to removing overhangs from long edges. To do this, we lay the workpiece on the face so that the edge hangs from the workbench (so we do not risk breaking the overhang).

A simple metal ruler or square is taken in hand (many people use knives, pieces of iron from planes and other exotic things, but I prefer the ruler, because sharply sharpened pieces of iron, at the slightest change in the angle of cut, strive to either move up or, worse, crash into the material of the part, damaging the laminate (a ruler cannot do this).

The square is placed on the face of the workpiece under acute angle to the edge (as in the photo) and with one movement the excess tape is cut off. At the same time, it should not be bent - the ruler should be tightly pressed to the surface of the workpiece. Together with the overhang of the edge, excess glue is also cut off, which often protrude from the junction.

In principle, the edge already turns out to be quite even. But to achieve the best effect, it should be polished.

To do this, we pick up a sanding block with a fine grain (P180, for example) and make one or two (no more) movements, at an angle of 45 degrees to the workpiece, smoothing the edge and removing possible burrs.

Sometimes there is such a thing as non-glue. It becomes clearly visible just after the removal of the overhang.

Again we pick up the iron and warm up the defective place, at the same time pressing the edge.

Then again with the palm of our hand we strongly press the edge tape to the workpiece. As a rule, this is enough.

Now the formation of the edge joint in the corners. The edge (it is advisable to immediately cut it off with a small allowance - it is more convenient to work with short segments) is applied to the workpiece.

It is pressed with an iron and also rolled with a palm. The result is such a joint that needs to be finalized.

With scissors, laying the upper branch on the edge of the workpiece strictly parallel to it, cut off the excess.

There remains a small (no more than 0.5 mm) residue.

We cut it by tilting the scissors at an angle of about 30 degrees.

The result is a joint like this. From the end, it also remains to cut off the excess tape with a ruler according to the method described above.

The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapor.

You will learn about what edges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue an edge with an iron and a hairdryer, from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

1. The most common type is melamine edge with glue on paper basis . It is applied to finishing of internal sites of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
2. T-shaped flexible profile- is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
3. PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant, resistant to moisture. Gluing PVC edging will require an edger, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly, chlorine-free option. Valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.

The average cost of a profile per linear meter:

• PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
• PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
• Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, products from Rehau are actively used, which offers a large selection color solutions, as well as different width tapes from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue in stages at home

For work you will need:

• iron or building hair dryer,
• and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
• hard roller,
• newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the adhesive sticky. Heating is carried out with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.

• The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
• Next, the iron again performs heating through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
• The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along the entire length.

1. Bonding with a building hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end desired area, pinch and gently smooth.
2. Gluing with glue "Moment". This the way is fine in the event that there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the butt is checked manually, sawdust, rubbish, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grabs faster.

VIDEO

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the area and the profile is clamped with a roller or manually.

Since usually the width of the PVC edges is taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge remains that matches the width of the site.

Shutdown

After everything is glued, it remains to process the bumps with sandpaper.

How to glue an edge on chipboard - a description

Melamine edging is the best option for home use when you need to refurbish old furniture With minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider, how to glue the edge on a chipboard tabletop at home.

GREAT VIDEO RELATED TO THE TOPIC

To work, you will need the following materials:

• skin,
• sharply sharpened knife-jamb,
• wallpaper roller,
• melamine edge,
• building hair dryer or iron.

Action algorithm:

1. select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
2. process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
3. measure the profile
4. heat it with an iron and press it firmly against the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
5. cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it remains to sand the edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, the stain will help correct the difference.

In case the item has complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, the first time it is not always possible to glue the material evenly. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.

What glue to choose for the edge

Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edging. They are convenient in the event that production will be put on stream, and it is required as high quality results, and fast speed.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means that when heated they become very elastic, and when cooled they quickly harden. The polymer of ethylene with vinyl acetate, which is part of the adhesive, is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

1. AT living conditions PVC glue is often used, which adheres paper materials well to various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps light color The mass adheres well to surfaces, but is afraid of moisture. Does not require application additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for operation by non-professional craftsmen.
2. fit universal adhesives"Moment" and "88-Lux", which will reliably stick the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
3. From professional furniture glue for the edge, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material using the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

In the manufacture or repair of furniture, craftsmen have to finish the edge of the product. For this, a special end edge made of PVC is most often used. Several popular ways to glue the specified frame on chipboard are described later in this article.

How to mount self-adhesive PVC edge

Polyvinyl chloride-based edging is sold in two versions. In the first version on her lower part a layer of glue is applied in the factory. In another version, the edge is sold without it, and the glue has to be applied independently.

If the material has an adhesive layer, it must first be heated. After heat treatment, the adhesive will become tacky and the edge will easily stick into place. This is done with the help of an iron, which must be switched to the "synthetic" mode.

The edge is attached to the end on which it must be glued. In this case, the edge completely covers the end face of the workpiece. Then gently, with the help of an iron, the edge is heated. But you shouldn't do it directly. It is better to iron the product through a layer of newspaper.

It is easy to stick such material. As it heats up, the glue dissolves and as soon as this happens, the iron moves on. The edge itself is well pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. So they act until the edge is glued to the part along the entire length.

Installing the edge with a building hair dryer

By the way, you can glue the edge without an iron. Sometimes it is more convenient to use a building hair dryer. To do this, the edge must be heated on the reverse side, where there is a layer of glue. When the glue becomes sticky, the edge is applied to its place, pressed and smoothed.

How to glue the PVC edge on the "Moment"

If the product does not have an adhesive layer, you need to take the "Moment" and apply it yourself. But before applying the glue, you should check the end of the workpiece for quality. There should be no debris, dust and sawdust. The butt must be clean and strong.

Glue is applied immediately to both surfaces. That is, on the edge of PVC and on the end face of the workpiece. At the same time, you should not rush. It is necessary to wait until the glue begins to set and only after that the edge can be glued in place with high quality.

While gluing the frame, it is strongly pressed against the workpiece and smoothed out. It does not hurt to roll the edge with a hard roller.

How to remove excess edge

If the edge sticks well the first time, you can proceed to the final stage. If not, the procedure is repeated. You need to apply more glue to the problem area and press it hard or roll it with a roller.

How to remove excess? The fact is that the frame is usually wider than the workpiece itself, so its extra width must be removed. This is done with a regular file by gently chipping.

The file is taken with both hands and the plane is pressed against the protruding edge. At the same time, it breaks off and becomes flush with the workpiece. The frame should be pricked towards the workpiece, and not away from it - so there is less risk that the edge will be damaged. However, if the PVC edge was glued with high quality, it pricks perfectly and this part of the work never causes any special complications.

Final grinding of the material

To finish the job of gluing the PVC edge, you need to take a small sandpaper and polish the flaws, if any. All! The frame is glued on and ready to use.