How to paint a plastic model with acrylic paint. Painting and weathering of armored vehicles: Basic stages

In some models, the parts are already painted, but in most cases the parts in the set have a solid gray color, which you need to add picturesque to yourself.
It is worth noting that painting a prefabricated model is a rather painstaking business. But do difficulties frighten us? Then let's get started!

What is required to paint prefabricated models 1 Paint Choosing a paint for modeling is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Water-soluble acrylic paints are excellent and can be applied with a brush or sprayed with an airbrush. Modeling paints are conveniently sold in sets specially matched to the color of a particular type of equipment, for example, "Military equipment", "Ships", "Aviation", etc. There are also nitro paints, but this is an option for professional modelers, behind whose shoulders there is already more than one painted model. In addition, it is worth considering that such paints have a very pungent odor. Attention.

2 Brushes Any brushes will suit your taste, as long as the bristle is soft and does not leave marks. Although in some cases, such traces can give a realistic texture to the model. For example, to convey the texture of wood on the planks of a ship, you can use small diameter bristles. You can use an airbrush instead of a brush, but this is a tool more for professionals.

In practice, you can achieve excellent results with a brush. Choose brushes of several sizes, round and flat, so that you can easily paint large surfaces and small details. 3 Primer When painting models with acrylic paints, a primer is required, otherwise the paint will simply "roll" off the surface without painting it. In addition, with a primer it is easier to identify unexpected irregularities on the surface, so that later they can be putty, cleaned and primed again. It is not necessary to prime models for nitro paint, but nevertheless it will not be superfluous to identify and eliminate irregularities. Be sure to choose a primer that is suitable for polystyrene so as not to damage the model!

4 Varnish Varnish is an excellent protection of the finished model from all external factors. The model can not only be wiped from dust, but even completely "bathed" under the tap, without fear of rubbing off the paint or damaging something. For nitro paints, both nitro and acrylic varnish are suitable. But for acrylic paints, only acrylic varnish should be used! Otherwise, the paint layer may swell.

7 Thinner Whenever you work with acrylic, keep your acrylic thinner with you. It will help keep brushes in their original form and erase random drops of paint.

For the model itself, you will need a model knife or paper cutter, nippers, sandpaper of various grain sizes, and a file will not be superfluous. You may need a one-component, designed for modeling, putty, flat spatula for applying putty on irregularities, and for very small models, you can take a flat screwdriver instead of a spatula.

A large number of varnishes, paints and primers are sold in aerosol cans. The paints do not need to be thinned, in general, this option is well suited for large models.

Preparation for work

Having prepared and protected the work surface and furniture around, you can start assembling the model. Carefully detach the parts from the sprues and carefully sand the cuts to smooth them out.
Carefully study the instructions and see which places you can paint over after gluing and which not. Based on this, some parts of the model can be immediately connected to each other. Apply the glue pointwise with the very tip of a brush or a regular sewing needle, then press the glued parts tightly against each other and leave for a few minutes. The glue will dry completely in about a day.
If the model contains transparent parts, it is better to cover them with masking tape.

Do this in any convenient way, for example, dampen a cotton pad or lint-free cloth in a degreaser. Do not touch the part with your hands! Degreasers, such as alcohol and gasoline, evaporate on their own, and dishwashing detergents must be rinsed off under running water, after which the parts must dry thoroughly.

Let's start painting

First you need to decide on the base color of the model. See what color the finished product should be the most - and take this color as a basis. It may need to be applied in several coats.

It's important to know!
When painting models of military and other equipment, do not use solid colors. Even if the color seems saturated and uniform, try adding a little black, white, or sandy yellow to it. Feel free to experiment with the palette and the result will be very natural. For example, if a part looks black, try painting it dark brown and darkening some areas with black.

Having covered the details of the model with the main color and waiting for it to dry, you can start toning. To do this, you can use the same paints from the set, only diluting them strongly with water. You can apply darkening or imitate dried dirt in color. It is better to combine different toning colors, so the model will be "livelier". There are so-called "filters", which slightly change the shade of the main color, make it picturesque. To do this, you can use oil paints with any thinner for oil paints, for example, with white spirit. The paint is diluted very thinly and should be more like a watercolor, we cover the entire model with the obtained tinted liquid.

A brown, gray filter, ocher will do, or you can apply several filters one after the other. After applying the filter, leave the model to dry for at least a day.
You can make the model even more realistic. For example, the image of adhering dirt is good with a sponge, and splashes are easy to depict if you put paint on a toothbrush and run your finger over it, spraying the paint on the desired surface. You can achieve texture, for example, adhering lumps of earth, by mixing the paint with PVA glue and putty. Rubbing paint in with a dry brush will also give interesting effects. And if you slightly blur some areas on the model with thinner, you get an imitation of paint fading in the sun.

That's all. Now you can show your friends a real miniature model, not only assembled, but also painted with your own hands!

If this article was helpful to you, please rate it (at the top of the page). Thanks!

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Foreword
In general, I started writing this text even before I finally formed a more or less accurate opinion about the various paints and how they are applied to the model. Therefore, at first there will be a little verbiage, which is also advisable to read, since there is also a little instructive in it.

So, at the end of 2013, carried away by modeling, and realizing that I just don't want to buy an airbrush yet, but I wish (with a little bit of masochism) to try to learn how to paint without it, I just went to the World of Models store, bought what there was, namely the enamel "Tamiya". And then in "Stationery" I took a Chinese set of 10 brushes for 65 rubles, and got down to business. Of course, before that, for a start, I tried to read something ... But it seemed to me that everything is so simple that you shouldn't even bother collecting information on the issue of interest to me.
In short, I started to paint and it didn't work out for me. I mean, absolutely.
This discouraged me. But not that much.

Small digression
The fact is that in childhood, many told me that I can draw, and I must definitely go to study at an art school. But I didn't want to go to art. It was enough for me that I could draw a female figure with a simple pencil (simplified and without obvious naturalism), well, and something else ... in the mood ... The whole point is that I only drew with a pencil. Simple. Since I never did anything with paints. And here life again pushed me against the colors ...

Realizing that I was doing something wrong, I decided to read some more.
And if you think that the Internet is filled to capacity with information about the technique of painting with a brush, then you are deeply mistaken.
Basically, all the answers to the questions from the series "how to learn to paint with a brush?" True, some interlocutors recalled legends about some Masters of the brush who painted with brushes better than with an airbrush, but that was usually the end of it.

Nevertheless, I got myself a notebook, where I began to write down all the interesting things and subtleties of modeling, including about the methods and techniques of painting with a brush. The subtracted methods from different authors sometimes differed dramatically, and only then I realized that real painting with a brush is not just "painting with a brush"! This is a process with a bunch of subtleties and nuances, and even somewhere - art.

And then one day, in search of a video of painting with a brush (by the way - absolutely unsuccessful), I came across a video of painting using an ordinary kitchen sponge. This inspired me. And it didn't matter that the author of the video tutorial painted the tank! (by the way, I was building airplanes, and this, as you understand, is a little different) It was a chance to start dyeing without suffering from mastering these sticks with a bun of hair at the end (i.e. brushes)!

I want to say that another ambush awaited me on my way, which is better to say right away.
This ambush is impatience.
Without waiting for the applied layer of paint to dry, I began to lay the next layer, and immediately spoiled the previous one. And here it does not matter at all what to paint and how ... If for a certain paint and method of application you did not withstand the time required (for drying or polymerization), most likely you will have to start all over again.
Why do you think I am writing all this? Yes, in order to somehow occupy yourself while the next layer of paint on the model dries!

In general, after the first layer applied with a sponge, I liked it (the sponge). Most importantly, there were no creepy streaks and hair left from her, like from a brush. But she had other disadvantages. The most important drawback, which will interfere even when you get your hand in the paint with a sponge, is a great difficulty in painting over small bumps and other places where the sponge simply does not fit. Well, and some "roughness" of the applied layer, even with a well-diluted paint.
It was this "roughness" that prompted me to try using a softer and less "pimply" sponge (which women use to apply cosmetics) instead of a sponge. But it also had its disadvantages - it either immediately clogs up with paint and ceases to be a "sponge", or, under certain conditions, it begins to "stick" to the surface and drag the already dried paint along with it. In this case, the result is terrible, especially if it happened on the last layers or on surfaces that are important in terms of the exterior.

Having at the very beginning of my journey a very small assortment of types and manufacturers of paints, I tried to paint the first two models (LaGG-3 and R-39) "by hand" (with a brush and a sponge) with enamels from TAMIYA. And although I still like these models, I admit that they are painted badly.

Then I found and read a great article "ABC of acrylic"(Walt Fink Fine Scale Magazin 09 2001) after which he quite fruitfully trained to paint with acrylic in different ways and with different thinners (the article itself can be read or downloaded in PDF format at this link)... At the same time I used acrylic paints from the same "Tamia". Training took place on another "cat" that never became a model - on a 48th scale Hurricane from the notorious ARK company. All these experiments were described by me here in LJ in "Learning to paint without an airbrush. TAMIYA acrylic. First experience." (link to PDF file).

But in spite of the experience gained, I again failed to paint the next model (Yak-1) normally.
Although I painted it in the most successful way (judging by the experiments).

After that, I again sat down to textbooks ... I began to search the Web for information about painting with a brush.
And the search was crowned with success - a wonderful article was found "Ours for you with a brush" written by Maxim Bylkin and published in the magazine "M-Hobby" (PDF link)... And I was inspired again - this is it! Deciding to immediately try the recommendations received, I again went to buy paint (which I still had plenty of by that time). This time it was REVELL enamel. I started to paint the next "cat" (P-40 "Tomahawk") in the way I read in the article, and again I failed.
No, something came out better than the enamels from "Tamia", but it was still bad ... Now I understand that the enamels "Revell" dry for a very long time (even a day for one layer will not be enough), and the main problems are with me were because of this.

At the same time, I was building "Foku" (FW-190A), which I tried to paint in the same way as "Tomahawk", but with enamel from "Tamia".
After five coats of paint, I erased everything, and "after consulting with my comrades" began to repaint "Foku" with acrylic, trying to combine everything that I had read before in the painting style.
"And then I got flooded!" (with)
Although during painting I continued to mow, but this no longer related to the method of painting, but to my crooked hands.

Therefore, at this stage of my research, I was able to shout, like the Cat Matroskin - "It worked !!!" - and began to hone my skills ...

And now I will write what, in fact, all this was written for - my humble opinion on the methods of painting models without an airbrush. Moreover, this article deals exclusively with the technology of applying the base color. Everything else - motling, gadding, aging and other perversions - is a completely different story ...

So let's go!

Below I offer you a variant of the technology of painting the surface of a model using brushes, which I came to through a long trial and error described above, and which I am using now.

I want to clarify right away what to apply base color I use exclusively acrylic paints and varnishes of "Tamiya" firm. And as a diluent, I have chosen and still use ordinary vodka (the cheapest).

I would also like to say about brushes ...
I use mostly flat, synthetic brushes. Their size, depending on the surface, ranges from No. 2 to No. 8. And for applying varnish - up to No. 16. I also note that it is better to buy brushes in specialized stores, since a cheap brush will ruin all your work, no matter how you tried. I buy brushes from Leonardo from Gamma (Gallery series), Mr. Painter and Colonsky sable. Or other good manufacturers.

Well, actually a little bit of technology ...

1. I apply layers of acrylic on vodka at fairly short intervals - sometimes less than a minute.
This is possible due to the properties of the thinner - vodka evaporates quickly, and as soon as the paint stops shining, you can safely paint the next layer. Moreover, it is better to do this with a semi-dry brush and, as it were, shading the not yet dry areas. Note: In this case, the paint should be quite liquid - I mix at least (!) Three parts of vodka for one part of the paint. But more often I dilute it even thinner - 1: 5. I do not count the layers and their quantity is determined visually by the quality of the resulting coating. If the paint is diluted quite liquid and in itself it is transparent (for example, white), then there can be 10-15 layers ... 2-3.

2. If the varnish with which the paint will be coated is also acrylic, then it is better to apply it (also with a brush) minimum in a day. Otherwise, there is a high probability of smearing the paint that has not yet completely dried. I dilute varnish in the same way as paint, but after application I do not shade, but let it dry on my own.

3. It is possible to polish acrylic paint with felt (which I sometimes do to determine the quality of painting and correct some small defects in the coating) in about 15-20 minutes after applying the layer. I usually go over the surface with felt somewhere in the middle of the job and, if necessary, at the end of painting.

ATTENTION!
1. Acrylic paint from "Tamia" is washed off with soapy water ( !!! ) And very good! Therefore, before applying varnish (preferably enamel), no water procedures. Otherwise, you will have to paint everything anew.
2. All of the above is written based on my personal experience and skills. And if suddenly something did not work out for you, you should not assume that I have deceived you somewhere.

GOOD LUCK!!!

P.S. You can look at almost all my works (painted exclusively with brushes) on the Karopka.ru project by going to my page here at this

You will need

• - model
• - paint (preferably enamel)
• - containers for paint dilution (if required)
• - a set of brushes (spray paint cans or airbrush)
• - spacious, ventilated, well-lit room
• - thinner and a small piece of cloth
• - oilcloth for covering the working surface

Instructions

Choose a painting method. There are several of them: with a brush, or with an airbrush. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, and can be applied by both experienced modelers and beginners.

The main advantage of painting with a brush is that the modeler's attributes are quite cheap (although the proprietary brushes are usually worth it). Nevertheless, this method remains the most inexpensive in comparison with others. Another plus is simplicity. Having settled on this option, pick up a suitable brush. Artistic ones with numbers 00, 01, 02 may be suitable, less often thick ones (03, 04, 06) are used for coating volumetric parts with varnish, applying imitation of dirt, dust, etc. ("Aging" of the model by applying traces of operation, ie smudges of dirt, road dust, rust, scratches, weathering). Before the process, it is advisable to wash the surface with detergent or sandpaper. The fact is that paint practically does not lie on too smooth plastic. Therefore, you need to create a layer to which it will cling. Painting is usually done at least twice. It is necessary to hold the model or its parts in a previously prepared holder. It is better to dry the painted parts according to the instructions attached to the paint. Drying can take about a day. Well varnished model.

Painting with spray paint cans also has a number of advantages and disadvantages. The first is that this method takes little time and is quite convenient, and drying can take about 20 minutes. The main negative point is the high consumption of paint. Also, in the process, the balloon must be kept at a strictly defined distance from the model. Otherwise, the jet will not reach the surface (underpainting), or it will simply flood it, forming smudges.

Another way to get things done is to use an airbrush. This is a device that allows you to spray paint with a very fine jet under pressure. The size of the jet is adjustable. The range of its sizes is large enough. You can create either a cloud or almost a brush. And in any case, the paint will lie so evenly that the smallest errors on the surface will be visible, which, to some extent, refers to the disadvantages of this type of painting. This means that the modeler must prepare very carefully: deepen the cracks, putty and wipe the joints. The high price of the equipment itself is also not a pleasant moment. In this case, after each painting, it is necessary to disassemble and rinse the airbrush with a solvent, then dry it. Painting itself takes a minimum of time, and the preparatory and final (washing, cleaning equipment) stages are a significant part of it. Thus, this method is suitable for non-lazy modelers.

Having chosen the most optimal option for you, you can start directly to work. The venue should be well ventilated, sufficiently spacious and brightly lit. Keep solvent and a small piece of cloth handy to remove stains from hands, surrounding objects, and parts in case of failure if necessary. Cover the surface you will be painting on with oilcloth or newspaper. It is advisable to have containers for diluting the paint. After completing the process, leave the model to dry. And rinse brushes or airbrush parts thoroughly with solvent.

In the circle of novice modelers, it is not customary to paint the first model. Therefore, we will talk about the moment when you feel the need to fill the "mountains of plastic" with flowers and give them a varnished shine. Agree, decals alone are indispensable here, so we will consider the process of painting the models in detail.

What do you need first?

This is money, and a lot of money. It is necessary to consider the fact that the modeler spends a lot on his hobby, but the costs are fully paid off by the stunning aesthetics of the models and the pleasure of creating stunning models from a heap of plastic parts. Depending on the method of staining, you will need:

Paints or enamels

By the word "paints" we mean substances that are not so easy, and sometimes even impossible to wash off with water. They are applied once and for all, you should be especially careful with them. You either will not wash them off, or you will completely breathe in solvents. As for enamel, most of them can be easily washed off with solvents. On thematic forums, you will find a lot of advice from masters who are used to considering themselves "the ultimate truth." It is worth noting that you can find "your" paints and enamels by trial and error. Therefore, we do not recommend getting involved in disputes on the forums - they will only take away your energy and waste nerve cells.

What principles should be followed in the selection process?

Experimenting with all options is recommended. However, it is necessary to take into account the properties of paints and enamels. For example, nitro paints have a pungent odor and are not suitable for people with a particularly sensitive sense of smell; it is not recommended to use them in the presence of small children (up to 12 years old) in the room. In this case, pay attention to water-based and acrylic paints - they have a less pungent odor. We also note that the nitro paints mentioned above are easy to use, but they easily seep through transparent parts and are difficult to wash off hands after work.

When painting the lion's share of the models, you will need enamels or paints of the following colors:

• Silver
• Black
• White

These colors should be purchased first, the rest can be purchased depending on the models you are working on at the moment. The main thing is never to mix paints on different bases and enamels from different manufacturers - they may become unusable. As for the quantity, one can of enamel or paint, when painted with an airbrush, is enough for an average of 2 models. When working with a brush - for 1 model, when painting small parts and elements - for 9-11 pieces. It is better for a beginner to buy classic paints in cans - they are suitable for working with a brush and for painting models with a brush.

Priming

The mass applied to the surface of the model, which actually acts as a connecting material between the plastic and the paint (enamel). The material is selected individually, depending on the paints or enamels you use. It is important to take into account the peculiarity of nitro paints - when painting a model with a brush, it slightly eats into the plastic - in this case, you can do without soil. But when working with water-borne paints and enamels, the use of primer is mandatory. Otherwise, you will encounter adhesion - water will drip on the surface of the model, and you will not be able to achieve a uniform layer of staining. If you are working with an airbrush, the primer is always necessary - otherwise the paint will crack and will not adhere evenly to the surface of the model.

Varnish

The varnishing of the painted surface is essential to ensure the durability and usability of the model, as well as to give it a complete, maximum aesthetics. You will be able to wipe and wash products without fear of paint slipping and cracks. You are not ashamed to show such products to your friends, they look impressive and professional. Varnishes are usually subdivided into nitro- and water-soluble. So when using nitro paints, you should use nitro or acrylic varnish. When painting a surface with water-based paints, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of their structure and cover only with specialized varnishes recommended by manufacturers. Interestingly, paints, enamels, varnishes and primers are sold as aerosols that do not require a solvent and are easy to use. However, their cost is an order of magnitude higher than the price of classical materials.

Solvent

Needed for thinning and wiping off paints, enamels. Determining the choice is extremely simple: at the initial stages, it is recommended to use the products indicated on the packaging with coloring materials. As you gain experience, you will be able to experiment with solvents and find the most suitable ones yourself. However, all paint manufacturers produce specialized solvents (thinners) for them and it is unlikely that it will be possible to find something better (only if something is cheaper). If the paint is marked "diluted with water", then it is better to use boiled or distilled water - it does not contain minerals and other unnecessary impurities.

Washer

A power wash is a cleaner for brushes, tools, hands, work surfaces, and other items you get soiled. Do not confuse it with washes used in attempts to artificially “age” the model and add visual effects. Note also that it is better to wash off enamels with a solvent, but for paints (not water-soluble) it is worth using a technical remover. Cleaning should be done immediately after completion of work, without waiting for the paint to dry and harden.

Container

Usually the paints in the can are thick and must be thinned during use. The easiest way to do this is to use tin lids, in which you can mix paint and solvent. We do not recommend throwing the covers away after use - over time, they will not only come in handy again, but also make up a full-fledged palette with which you can select the desired shade for the executed models. Here you can re-mix paints with solvents. If cracks form on the surface of the models, you can also re-dilute the residue in the lid and use it as a "repair material". Glass vials from under all kinds of medicines and products are also suitable for containers.

How to choose a painting method?

In general, all modelers are divided according to their preferences in choosing one of two types of painting models - with a brush or with an airbrush. Agree, it is not so important for you how and with what to paint, the main thing is to get a perfectly painted model. Therefore, for the first models, options made of colored plastic are suitable. After successful assembly, the initially colored plastic can be slightly decorated with patterns to your liking. And after the experience of successful assembly, you will be able to purchase unpainted plastic and saturate its surface with color on your own.

If your household is not against further experiments, we acquire a model that will need to be painted entirely. Next, we decide what we will paint - with a brush or an airbrush? The first method is difficult and economical. The second is more expensive and aesthetic. In the case of brushes, no other tools are needed, but for an airbrush you will have to purchase a compressor. Test your ability to paint evenly with a brush. To do this, take ordinary glass and try to evenly paint it on it, avoiding bubbles, streaks and other things. If it works, work with a brush. If all attempts are unsuccessful, opt for an airbrush.

You can also use special aerosol cans for painting, but do not forget that this painting method is the most expensive. When choosing a method of painting with brushes, purchase tools. Do not skimp on buying brushes of different thicknesses, shapes, made from different materials. When choosing an airbrush - buy a compressor, do not forget to use a hood if necessary.

Assembling the model for painting

Remember the anecdote "All assembly instructions in Russian must begin with the phase" Well, broke it? " Break this myth, and carefully read the instructions and assemble the model in strict accordance with the recommendations. However, keep in mind an important nuance: after the final assembly, it is no longer possible to paint over the product completely. Therefore, see in advance which parts are worth painting before sticking on the next ones. So the figures should be painted completely, with the exception of weapons.

We also paint armored vehicles completely (body), separately before attaching we paint wheels, tracks, equipment, boxes and other elements, in particular, the interior decoration of the equipment. You can hardly reach the steering wheel with a brush after assembly - paint it separately. Consider the individual design of each model, because in its essence it is unique and inimitable, estimate the scope of work in advance and experiment. The first pancake may not be "lumpy" if you calculate everything in advance.

Finishing work

In the process of finishing the model, take into account the sequence of stages of work, which in the end will allow you to get a truly beautiful, fully-fledged model. So, we present to you the algorithm.

Preparation

We take into account an important nuance: paint is better on a rough surface than on a perfectly smooth product. At the same time, we note that roughness always spoils the appearance of the model. Therefore, uneven surfaces are usually smoothed and polished before painting. Usually, a "skin" of grain size M-40 and less is used for this. Ideal polishing materials can also be found in model shops, but the cost is slightly higher than in the same market. The "skin" is moistened with water and begins to polish the surface, removing, among other things, traces of glue. Ideally, start with a coarse grain, gradually working down to a finer grain. Continue polishing the surface until it is perfectly smooth. Note that a large number of elongated and protruding elements significantly increase the front of work, but you should not neglect their polishing.

Next, we prepare the parts directly for painting - we put them on a frame or other holders, where the elements will be in the process of painting and drying. The minimum number of models have a design that allows you to paint parts without cutting them off the sprues. Often, ordinary toothpicks, sticks and the same sprues are used as holders. The element is attached to the holder in such a way that it does not touch any surfaces. Mount to holder = Mount to model, so you can safely leave it unpainted. In the process of filling the first models with color, you can use the edge of the table as a support for the mandrel; in the future, we recommend equipping yourself with a special board with many holes, where you can attach several mandrels at the same time. Attention: after attaching the parts, do not touch it with our hands.

Degreasing the surface

For high-quality staining, it is necessary to degrease the surface in advance. In this case, you can use both special means for modelers, and simple dishwashing detergents and even gasoline. Alcohol is most often used - after degreasing, it is not required to dry the parts with it, whereas after using household chemicals, you need to rinse every part with water and dry thoroughly. During the degreasing process, never touch the part with your hands. If any parts (dust, hairs) get in, brush them off with a dry brush.

Primary primer

Let us remind you that a primer is necessary to securely attach the paint to the surface of the product. In the case of using nitro paints, it may not be necessary, however, when working with other paint materials, enamels, as well as when painting with a spray can or an airbrush, it is necessary to prime the model. In the process of priming, we apply protection to transparent parts (a simple masking tape is suitable), which we remove only after applying the last layer of paint or finishing varnishing. Next, we evenly apply the primer to the surface. In case of unevenness, DO NOT ERASE it, but leave it as it is and wait for the primed parts to dry completely.

Intermediate sanding

Performed in case of an uneven surface as a result of the primer. We take the finest-grained "skin" and carefully grind the soil, removing all smudges, drops and bumps. Be careful and careful: if you get too carried away with sanding, then it is likely that some places will be erased "to plastic". In this case, the priming of the surface will have to be repeated.

Finishing primer

Intermediate sanding is always followed by a final primer. It allows you to cover overly "cleaned" areas with the composition, as well as create a perfectly flat surface. Be extremely careful: in the process of repeated, final priming, beginners and experienced modelers often again admit the formation of smudges and drops. It is possible that you did not make any mistakes, but the surface still seems ribbed. If this happens, try sanding the primer again using a finer grit sandpaper.

Main tone

The main tone is understood as the color of the largest area of ​​the painted surface. It is determined according to the scheme, planning the color scheme in advance. At the same time, in the process of working with light colors (red, yellow, beige, blue and others), it is recommended to apply white paint to match the tone - this way the model will look much brighter. The surface of the entire model can be painted with a basic tone (provided that you are not working with red). Usually several thin layers are applied - they look much better than one oily layer. When working with water-borne paints, it is recommended to cover each layer with a colorless varnish.

Camouflage

The process of applying camouflage is the most crucial moment in painting any model. In the course of it, you can either create the perfect aesthetics of the product, or completely ruin it. Note that the technique of drawing a pattern is different for all modelers and is developed in the process of painting many models. However, you should still adhere to a number of rules. So first, light tones are applied and only then - dark ones. Elements that do not need to be painted must be protected with simple masking tape or specialized fluids.

Finishing

At this stage, all protective tapes are peeled off (only after the paint is completely dry), the model is covered with a thin layer of varnish (if necessary) and it is also allowed to dry. Be careful: it is necessary to apply varnish at a time when all the protective coatings have not yet been removed. Further, again if necessary, various decals (decals) can be applied to the surface. Your model is finally ready. From now on, it will lay the foundation for your collection, or will become its worthy continuation. It remains to find a place where the model is located and proudly demonstrate it.

Conclusion

Summing up, we note that you should be patient and try to take into account all the recommendations given in this article. Believe me, the first model is not always perfect. A modeler is an extremely patient, diligent and really diligent person. Each model takes a lot of time and effort, for which it will fully reward you with its stunning aesthetics and believability. Be patient and go for it!

Generally, the first model is usually not painted, so we go straight to the second step in the development of the modeler - to the moment when he first thought that the heap of "naked" plastic, decorated with "decals" is somehow not very beautiful ...

Part 1. Essentials

The very first thing a modeler needs to start trimming models is money. Much money. So much money. Regardless of what and in what ways you will paint, you need the following things:

1. Actually, the paints themselves (or enamels)

Paint is something that cannot then be dissolved or washed off with something just like that. The ceilings in the apartment, for example, are painted with water-based paints, diluted with water, and after drying you will wipe them off. Enamels - they can be washed off, and easily, with their own solvent. Example - watercolors, dissolve with water, and then wash off with water. Models are painted with both, you can not get hung up on this for now; later on in the article they will be, both, simply "paints", but if necessary, they will be highlighted.

On various forums you can come across fierce disputes "which colors are better", strong arguments are given, sometimes it will come to a fight ... Do not get involved in such discussions - firstly, if you have not worked with this, then your subjective opinion is only " will add fuel to the fire ", and secondly," every cricket praises his pole ", and every modeler works with those paints and varnishes that he could get and to which he had time to get used to.

So which paint should you choose?

If you have a small child in your family, then nitro paints will not work for you - they have a very pungent smell. In this case, you should pay attention to a number of water-based or acrylic paints. If you see the words "Diluted with water" or "Diluted with alcohol" on a bottle with paint - you should know that these are your paints. If you have an extractor hood and everyone is calm about the smell of the solvent, then you can choose nitro paints - they are easier to use, but they are worse washed off the hands. It is also easy to "burn through" transparent parts with nitro paints and spoil the plastic. Both are worth about the same.

Almost all models require the following paints:

• White
• Black
• Silver

The rest of the paints required for a particular model can be purchased gradually, as needed. Remember, under no circumstances mix paints from different manufacturers or paints on a different basis (nitro and water, for example) to obtain the desired color, the paints may deteriorate!

As a rule, one jar is enough for 2-3 models (if painted with an airbrush) and 1 model for painting with a brush, or 8-10 sets of soldiers. The model is average, such as an aircraft at a scale of 1:72, or a tank or soldiers at a scale of 1:35. There are also special paints for an airbrush, very liquid, but it is better not to buy them for now - they are not suitable for a brush; in cans, the paint is universal. Hence the difference in paint consumption - when using an airbrush, the paint is diluted, it "becomes more" and is enough for more models.

2. Ground

This is a liquid applied to the model that prevents the paint from falling off the model after drying. For nitro and water-based paints, the primers are different and cannot be changed.

There is one more nuance. If, when painting with a brush, you put nitro paint on plastic, then it slightly dissolves this plastic, "gnaws", and the primer is not really needed; then when painting with water-soluble paints, the primer is always necessary - the water does not dissolve the plastic, and the paint will collect in droplets on the surface. This phenomenon is called "adhesion", i.e. simplified "wettability", or the ability of something to spread evenly over any surface. If you don’t believe, then try to “paint the plastic” evenly with plain water. When painting with an airbrush, primer is always necessary, regardless of the type of paint - the paint lays down on the surface already "at the end" in small portions, and it simply does not have the strength to normally "eat" the plastic and "stick" to it.

3. Varnish

Varnish is necessary so that your model will delight your eyes for a long time, and you could calmly, for example, after a holiday and a prelude display of your achievements, go and wash the model under the tap, without fear of ruining the decals (decals) and paint. Varnishes are also nitro- and water-soluble. If you painted with nitro paints, then the varnish can be nitro or acrylic (water or alcohol soluble); if you painted with water-soluble paints, then nitro varnish can ruin everything, the surface will "swell" and "rise". In addition, when using water-soluble acrylic paints, almost every layer should be varnished - these paints are extremely delicate. Usually firms that produce water-based paints also produce varnishes for these paints, so be sure to buy.

Primer, varnish and paint are also sold in aerosol cans. You can buy for both models and cars - if only the color fits. They do not need a solvent, they are already diluted. But this is for extreme lovers with a big wallet - the consumption of paints and varnishes is large, and in the apartment, in addition to the model, you will paint everything that is "in the line of fire" of the spray can.

4. Solvent

Everything is simple here - take what is written on the paint. At the initial stage, this will save you unnecessary hassle. Then, when you have experience and a bunch of unnecessary paint cans, you can start experimenting, buy "third-party" solvents, etc. As well as for varnishes, manufacturing firms must also produce a solvent (sometimes called a thinner) for their paints. If it says "Diluted with water", then you can safely dilute it with boiled, or better distilled, if you get it. It is not recommended to dilute raw from a tap or a spring, after all, there is a lot of all kinds of salts, minerals, etc.

5. Flushing

Unlike the wash used by the modellers in the sense of "aging the model", the technical wash is a liquid used to wash brushes, tools, hands, furniture, etc. etc. after painting. As a remover, you can use the same solvent with which you diluted the paint, or you can buy a special one. If you painted with enamels, then you can wash it off with a solvent, and if with paints, then it is better to use a special remover. It is better to wash the tool immediately after the end of the work, otherwise then you will be tortured to clean the dried paint.

6. Container

As a rule, the colors in the jar are thick, and these jars are sold filled to capacity. To work with a brush, paint can be dripped into caps from beer or vodka, solvent can also be dripped there, mixed and painted with this. After painting, you do not need to throw away the cap - firstly, over time you will accumulate a palette, according to which you can select the desired shade for a particular model.

Secondly, in this cap, you can dilute the same paint again (if you try to dilute another, they may mix and get a different shade), and thirdly, if you painted with enamel and you have an accidental scratch on the old model and paints no, you can try to dilute what is left in the lid and "cover up" it. I also recommend going to the pharmacy or walking around your house and ask old women for glass medicine bottles. Rest assured, they will be immensely happy if you offer them a cash reward for each bubble. You, who buys paint (and one jar costs at least two loaves of bread), it will not be expensive at all, and they, in the modern world, will really need it. If you are shy, then go to the pharmacy and buy the cheapest medicines in the required container. At the moment, for the price of one can of paint, you can buy a dozen bottles of "Naphtizin".

Part 2. Choosing a painting method

The overwhelming number of modelers can be divided into two opposing camps - those who paint with a brush, and those who paint with an airbrush. We will not go into such heated discussions about who is stronger - an elephant or a whale, but let's try to figure out how they differ and what we need.

Now it is not important for us how we will paint - the main thing for us is to get a beautiful model, so that next time we will not be told “You are doing daubs again”. For the first time, buy a model that practically does not need to be painted - the set includes multi-colored plastic. Manufacturers who produce models of cars and ships especially like to indulge in this. If you see a large, beautiful, non-Russian box with a typewriter or sailing boat, then most likely there is multi-colored plastic, although it is better to consult with the seller. You just have to glue it together and tint it a little with a brush to heighten the effect. But you can say "I painted!" and continue their hard way in further improving the finishing of models.

Made? Got the consent of your family (moms, dads, wives, children, etc.) to continue the experiments? Moving on - we buy a model that needs to be painted ALL. FROM and TO.

When painting large surfaces, you should already think about - paint with a brush or airbrush? The first method is cheaper and more affordable; but the second is prettier, faster and more expensive. When painting with brushes, you only need the brushes, and when painting with an airbrush, you need an airbrush and also a compressor. Take a sheet of glass and try to paint it with a brush so that it is even, without bumps and streaks. Happened? Then you don't need an airbrush, keep up the good work. If it doesn't work, try again. Doesn't it work even after the tenth time? You are hopeless, you will have to buy an airbrush ... Or aerosol cans, for the first time.

Have you chosen what to paint with? If with a brush, then buy brushes, all sorts of different, tasty and sweet, squirrel and kolinsky, large and small, round and flat ... If with a spray, buy the colors you need. If an airbrush, then an airbrush and a compressor. In the last two cases, you will also need an extractor hood. Although the prices of both the latter methods will become equal by the end of the first year, and in the future the airbrush will begin to fall in price.

Part 3. Assembling the model for painting

First, we carefully review the assembly instructions. As a rule, it is designed in such a way that the model remains unfinished after assembly. How? Very simple - after gluing the last part, you can no longer paint in most places.

Therefore, we CAREFULLY study every detail and evaluate where we can climb after gluing, and where we cannot. If we can, then we glue, if not, then we paint first, and then we glue it.
For figures, you can glue everything except weapons, for armored vehicles - everything except wheels, tracks, boxes, shovels, crowbars, etc.; also first we glue and paint the cabin. As a rule, after gluing the body, it is no longer possible to reach the steering wheel, seats and pedals with a brush. For aircraft models, you do not need to glue weapons, landing gear, antennas - they are painted separately from the fuselage, wings, etc. Choose the time for painting the cab as far as you can: you can paint it separately and carefully insert it - paint it separately.

Each model is individual, so be guided by your experience, ingenuity and luck - you can always tear it off and remake it, there can be no unequivocal recommendations. But if you are afraid to ruin everything, it is better to buy two identical models, train at the first, and do the second, focusing on the mistakes of the first.

Part 4. Finishing the model.

There is a certain sequence to follow if you want to get a beautiful model.

1. Surface preparation

It is generally known that paint adheres better to a rough surface than a polished one. However, a rough surface on a small model will significantly impair its appearance. Therefore, before applying the first layer of paint and varnish material, the model should be made as slick as possible, and we will achieve the reliability of the coating in another tricky way, which we will talk about below.

Most modelers use sandpaper to smooth the model. If you will not buy skin in model stores, then take the M40 and smaller. If in model stores, then they will offer you a ready-made set of skins, it is more expensive, but also less headache. Take the skin, soak it in water and third model until you have rubbed off the glue seams and glue-stained parts to such an extent that they are not noticeable to the touch.

The skin should be changed from time to time to a finer one until you sand the model with the smallest one you have. If the model has a lot of protruding small parts, such as rivets, imitation of the joints of the sheathing sheets, etc., then you will suffer for a long time. This is not scary - do not hesitate to admit that you smoked one model for six months. Firstly, it will emphasize your patience, and secondly, it will emphasize the fact that you are thinking about modeling thoughtfully, and not a blooper. In the future, you will find a lot of good things in yourself, and your household will be immensely happy that you don’t waste your salary, don’t hang around at night, don’t cheat on your wife or just your girlfriend (once it’s simple), and your golden hands are growing. Well, or at least pretend ...

After you have sanded everything, the parts of the model must be planted somewhere (usually called a mandrel) so as not to paint your hands, and after painting, do not keep the parts until dry. Very rarely, model sprues are designed in such a way that parts can be painted without cutting them off the sprues, so everything that the eye fell on can be used - toothpicks, the same model sprues, ice cream sticks, etc. It is necessary to glue the part to these mandrels in the place with which it will then be glued to the model. After that, the mandrel must be stuck somewhere so that the part does not touch anything. For the first time, the mandrel can be put on the edge of the table and pressed with a book, and in the future you can come up with a board with a bunch of holes into which you will insert the mandrels, like pencils in a glass of a desktop writing instrument.

Planted? That's it, you can't touch the details with your hands anymore.

2. Degreasing

In order for the paints and varnishes to hold better, the model must be degreased. You can use everything that comes to hand - soap, fairies, gasoline ... Anything that dissolves fat. It is best, of course, to degrease with a thin layer of alcohol, but where can you get so much of it? Not sure how to degrease with alcohol? Take a sip, breathe on the cotton wool, and wipe the model with this cotton wool, in a thin layer. Yes, it's a pity that the alcohol ran out quickly, and the model is not even half fat-free ...

Well, after degreasing, you need to remove all traces of the degreaser - if alcohol or gasoline, it will dry itself, and if soap, fairies or some other kitchen chemicals, then you need to rinse the model under running water and put it to dry. The main thing is not to touch the model with your hands. If you see a speck or hair, brush it off with a degreased brush.

3. Primary priming

Actually, it has already been said about the need for priming, but it is better to repeat: "A primer is such a liquid applied to a model, which prevents the paint from falling off this model after drying." If you don’t want to primer, please don’t. Just carry out an experiment - apply primer on a piece of the sprue from this model, let it dry, and then paint the sprue and uncoated sprue at the same time. Let the paint dry, then try scratching it off with your fingernail. If there is a difference, then do what is best. If there is no difference, then it may be true that the primer on this model, for this paint, with this method of applying paint and varnish material, is superfluous.

Apply a protective coat to the transparent parts. As a rule, masking tape is suitable for this. The protective coating will be removed after the final varnishing (or the last coat of paint if you do not want to varnish it). Then apply the primer evenly to the model. If you planted a drop with soil, do not wash it, but wait until it dries and go to the next step.

4. Intermediate grinding

If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the surface after priming, intermediate sanding is your chance to fix it. Take the finest skin you have and sand the soil. At this stage, the shortcomings made in the preparation of the surface for the application of the primer are already becoming noticeable. If you are dripping from the ground- we also grind it off. If you get carried away, and sanded the soil to plastic, then the priming operation in this place will have to be repeated.

5. Final priming

If you used intermediate grinding, then you just need to perform this operation. Firstly, with its help, you finally cover the entire surface, and secondly, you finally make sure that the evenness of the surface satisfies you (at this stage, you seem to imitate the application of paint). If the surface does not suit you (you can see the risks from the sandpaper), then either you sanded with a very coarse sandpaper, or you missed something during intermediate sanding. Troubleshooting solutions - Repeat steps 4 and 5 again, decreasing the grain size of the skin and increasing the duration of the sanding treatment.

6. Applying the main tone

Look carefully at the color scheme and figure out which color zones are larger (by area). This will be the main tone. The exception is light colors - yellow, silver, red, blue, light gray, etc. If the main tone is light, then the whole model is best painted with white paint (on it, light colors look brighter), and only then apply the main tone. The basic tone can be used to paint the entire model, provided that it is not red. It is not worth blowing out the model with one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish.

At this stage, the risks from the skin become even more noticeable. If you don’t want to see them, repeat steps 4 and 6. If, at the same time, you again sand the paint and primer to the plastic, then you must complete steps 4, 5, 6; at the same time, point 5 is not performed on the entire model, but only in those places where you have reached the plastic.

7. Application of camouflage

Careless movement of a brush or airbrush can ruin the entire appearance of the model, so be careful about this operation. In fact, every modeler applies camouflage in his own favorite way, but there are a few rules that everyone adheres to. Here they are: first, light tones are applied, then dark ones; non-working (not painted) areas are covered with masks (anything you like - from a piece of paper and scotch tape to any special liquids). Also, as with applying the main tone, it is not worth painting the model at one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish. If the camouflage is multi-colored, then varnish should be applied after each color application.

8. Final finishing

Here you can do whatever you want - assemble the model, apply decals, age, wash off ... There are no strict recommendations at this stage - everyone for himself, everyone builds what he wants and how he can. Sometimes it is more convenient to apply decals and then glue, and sometimes glue and then apply decals. But it's best to age afterwards - to age both the model and the decal at the same time.

The main thing is that if you apply varnish after all this, then do not remove the masks (protective coating) from the transparent parts. Otherwise, transparency may be lost from varnish, especially if it is nitro varnish. Although matte lacquer on glass is also not good enough ...

Part 5. Conclusion

If you have read the entire article carefully - you can do modeling! The most important thing is patience, and the rest will follow. Modeling - it is so, it takes a lot of time ...

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