Conditions for growing zonal pelargonium at home. Pelargoniums "Angels" - Angel pelargoniums

Pelargonium zonal, well known to every flower lover, is often not quite correctly called geranium. This decorative culture has occupied one of the first places in the world industrial floriculture for many years.

Today the genus Pelargonium has about 280 species. Most of these species grow in various parts of South Africa. The most famous of them is considered to be zonal or garden pelargonium. This complex hybrid was the result of numerous crosses involving nearly 200 species.

Pelargonium zonal - perennial culture, in the open field in our latitudes is used as annual, in rooms it can grow and develop over the years.

In the garden Pelargoniums are planted not only in flower beds, but also in hanging containers along with fuchsias, lobelias and other crops. They grow and thrive in portable containers outdoors.

From the very beginning of its cultivation, zonal pelargonium attracted attention with its abundant and spectacular flowering. As a result of the work of breeders, a huge number of various forms and colors were obtained (tall and dwarf species, monochromatic and variegated, simple and double flowers).

Now this culture still retains its leading positions in the world industrial floriculture. Recently, new varieties and hybrids of pelargonium have appeared, which stand out for their special endurance.

About new varieties of pelargonium

The modern assortment of this culture amazes with a huge number of varieties and hybrids.

To obtain healthy plants that retain all varietal characteristics, special companies use invitro propagation (from a piece of tissue).

A big spike in attention to pelargonium occurred after the creation hybrids that multiply with seeds... Such specimens are distinguished by excellent uniformity (that is, they have the same size, develop in the same way and bloom at the same time).

Various varieties and hybrids of pelargonium differ from each other in the size of the flower and the entire inflorescence, the height of the plant, as well as the number of simultaneously flowering inflorescences.

Tall pelargonium have large inflorescences and flowers that bloom late enough. The number of inflorescences in such plants is not very large. Low-growing varieties and hybrids This culture with small inflorescences attracts attention with its early and lush flowering.

It is worth remembering the Goldsmith pelargoniums. Many fans of this plant are already familiar with her series "Maverick", "Elite", "Orbit". These series of plants can be perfectly grown from seed.

Reproduction of pelargonium zonal

Pelargonium zonal propagates with seeds and cuttings. Both methods have their advantages.

Pelargoniums grown from seed, are more compact and better resist various adverse factors and diseases. These hybrids in flower arrangements are planted in well-lit areas. They retain their evenness and beautiful appearance until autumn, and also tolerate light frosts well.

In large flower beds for plants obtained from cuttings, more careful and painstaking care is required, since they react more sharply to changes in temperature and humidity. In addition, in such pelargoniums, flowering decreases with the onset of cold nights.

Plants obtained from seed, are more resistant to heat, and specimens from cuttings grow and develop better in the shade.

Growing pelargonium zonal from seeds

Seeds of zonal pelargonium have a dense leathery shell, therefore, before sowing, scarification must be carried out:
- rub between two sheets of fine sandpaper,
- soak seeds for 3 hours in warm water;
- another way of scarification: alternately pour boiling water over the seeds and cold water(can be repeated several times), then put in boiling water and leave for 24 hours.

Seeds can be sown without scarification, but this reduces germination and increases germination time to 1-3 months.

If you purchased seeds in the form of pills from a store, scarification is not needed for such seeds, go straight to planting.

Sowing of zonal pelargonium seeds is carried out in December - March. The deadline is April.

Sowing seeds is carried out in a substrate consisting of a mixture of peat with coarse sand or vermiculite or from sod land with the addition of peat, sand or vermiculite. Convenient to use for sowing peat tablets.

Before sowing, the substrate (peat tablets) is moistened. At the same time, it is useful to treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide to prevent black leg.

When sowing in boxes, the ground is lightly tamped, the seeds are laid out on the surface, lightly sprinkled with a substrate on top and additionally moistened with a spray bottle with lukewarm water.

The plantings are placed under plastic bags, which are removed once a day for ventilation. The substrate is kept moist, but without the "swamp".

Containers with sown seeds are kept at a temperature of 20 to 24 degrees.

Pelleted and scarified seeds usually sprout in 7-12 days, but they can germinate up to 3 weeks.

Seedlings are sprayed daily with water room temperature, monitor sufficient soil moisture, carry out preventive maintenance once a week fungal diseases(watering with potassium permanganate or fungicide).

In the phase of 3 true leaves, you can pick the seedlings. When diving, soil cultivation is also carried out against the black leg. Subsequently, you need to spend another 1-2 watering with potassium permanganate (fungicide).

To form lush bushes over 6 leaves, the plants are pinched.

Before planting in the garden (at least 2-3, preferably 10-14 days), you need to harden the seedlings. To do this, it is transferred to the street for a while (first to a covered loggia, if available). In this case, the air temperature should be at least 10-12 degrees. The first "walk" takes 2 hours (in partial shade), then the time is increased and the plants are gradually accustomed to the sun.

Video about picking seedlings of pelargonium:

Propagation by cuttings

Pelargonium cuttings can be planted from January to April. It is convenient to combine this procedure with spring pruning.

Cuttings are cut from existing plants, each cutting should have 2-3 internodes (pairs of leaves).
Apical cuttings are preferred. They take root better.
The lower cut is made oblique, the upper cut is straight (for stem cuttings).
The resulting cuttings are kept in the air for 2-3 hours in the shade to dry the slices.
Placed for rooting in water or light substrate (coarse sand, peat, vermiculite).
When planting, the substrate must be spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide (prevention of black leg).
Landings are placed in a bright place at a temperature of 20 to 24 degrees.
Rooting takes place within 3 weeks. After that, the cuttings are planted in separate containers and placed in a well-lit place so that the plants do not stretch out.

In mid-May, plants can be planted in a permanent place in the garden.

Video about the reproduction of pelargonium by zonal cuttings:

Planting pelargonium zonal

Pelargonium can be used for planting in flower beds, mixborders and curbs. It is perfect for hanging containers, portable containers, balcony boxes and a variety of large pots, stone and concrete flower boxes.

V open ground Pelargonium is planted in seedlings. The seedlings are grown as described in the propagation section.

Seat selection

Like all geranium crops, pelargonium loves an abundance of light and grows well in areas of the garden exposed to sunlight. When cultivating pelargonium in places slightly shaded, the splendor of the flowering decreases, but the size of the flower becomes larger.

Soil preparation

Best of all, this culture develops on loose, air-permeable, nutrient soils with neutral acidity (pH 5.8-6.2). In addition, fertilizer with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus must be added to the ground. You need to dissolve it little by little over a long time.

Before planting, the soil on flower beds and ridges must be dug to a depth of 25 to 30 cm, then carefully leveled with a rake.

Landing dates

In flower beds or on a garden bed, zonal pelargonium is planted only after May 15, and it can be taken out on a closed balcony or loggia a few weeks earlier, but at the same time it is imperative to take care of frost protection.

Landing technology

The finished seedlings are planted in flower beds so that the distance between plants in a row and between rows is 20 or 25 cm, depending on the height and width of the bush. In portable containers and hanging pots, plants are planted close enough, but make sure that they do not touch each other with leaves.

When planting, pelargonium is placed 2-3 cm deeper than it grew in seedling pots. This aids in the formation of new additional roots in young plants.

It is advisable to pinch the elongated specimens when planting. Such an agrotechnical technique will slightly postpone the appearance of flowers, but the bushes will get stronger rather quickly and their summer flowering will be more magnificent.

Agricultural rules

Watering

Since zonal pelargonium belongs to drought-resistant crops, only young specimens need regular watering when planting outside (until they begin to grow intensively). Watering is also required for adult pelargoniums if the weather is hot and dry for a long time and if the leaves of the bushes begin to fade.

In portable containers and hanging pots, plants are also watered regularly throughout the growing season, but the top layer of soil (3-5 cm) must dry out during the time between waterings.

Top dressing

In order for pelargonium to develop well and bloom magnificently, it needs additional feeding mineral fertilizers with nitrogen and potassium. Moreover, nitrogen should be less than potassium. This proportion of macronutrients in top dressing keeps the plant in top shape.

Pelargoniums, which are grown in containers, are fed by the root and by leaves (foliar feeding).

It is worth knowing that when feeding under the root with fertilizers, the acidity of the soil increases, and a decrease in pH below 5.7 provokes diseases in adult plants and seedlings.

Pelargoniums, planted in flower beds and rabatki, are fed every 10-12 days from the time of planting to mid-August. And the plants, located in hanging containers and boxes on balconies or loggias, are fed at weekly intervals. At the same time, foliar and root dressings are alternated.

Pruning inflorescences

To maintain the beautiful appearance of plants growing in portable containers and concrete flower beds, dried inflorescences and yellowed leaves must be cut off.

Also, inflorescences (including those that have not bloomed) should also be removed from pelargoniums growing in flower beds if the weather is cool for a long time with precipitation, since in such humid conditions the inflorescences can get sick with gray rot. From inflorescences, the disease quickly passes to shoots and leaves, especially if the bushes were fed with large doses of nitrogen.

Pelargonium zoned in autumn and winter

The flowering of this culture continues in the fall, as pelargonium can easily tolerate small frosts (-3 degrees Celsius). To prolong flowering, plants can be planted from a flower bed into a container and brought into the room. If, when transplanting a bush, a large clod of earth with roots is preserved, then flowering will not be interrupted for a single day. On a well-lit window, pelargonium will continue to bloom for another two to three months.

After its completion, containers with plants are moved to a bright room with a temperature of 10-12 degrees. If this is not possible, then the shoots are pruned and watering is limited. With the beginning of spring, pelargonium is transplanted into fresh and nutritious soil, the stems are greatly shortened, placed on a light window and watering is increased. As soon as the shoots move from their place, they begin to fertilize with fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

This flower is called differently: some derogatoryly and disparagingly call it geranium, others respectfully call it pelargonium. Although the latter are right. The fact is that the taxonomy of plants is a rather complicated matter, and there were disagreements regarding pelargonium for a long time.

This houseplant belongs to the extensive geranium family, which includes many plants, among which representatives of the genus "geranium" - "geranium" are very common, only these flowers are not grown in rooms. Another name for real geranium is the crane, and this flower grows in our meadows and fields, some species in flower beds. Distinctive feature representatives of this genus - the symmetrical structure of the flower. But representatives of another genus of the geranium family - pelargonium (pelargonium) grow exclusively in southern countries and in our strip are mostly grown as a houseplant. Pelargoniums are distinguished by an asymmetrical flower structure: their two upper and three lower petals have different sizes and shapes. So, according to the scientific classification, the grandmother's flower growing on the windowsill is pelargonium. Although until now, even in very authoritative sources, they sometimes continue to be called geraniums. The most important thing, however, is that we understand what is at stake.

Interestingly, some growers consider geraniums to be old, long-known species of pelargonium (for example, zonal), while only the most spectacular representatives of the genus are referred to as pelargoniums. Don't laugh though: even some very famous foreign websites use this classification.

So, we agreed: the thermophilic plants growing on our windowsills are pelargoniums, and the winter-hardy cranes are geraniums. But this is not the only difficulty. It turns out that there are a huge number of species and varieties in the genus Pelargonium. Probably, it will take a whole book to list and describe them all.

First of all, it is well-known and beloved, the most widespread and popular pelargonium zonal... It is so named for a special strip on the leaves - a dark zone that is present in most varieties. The zonal pelargonium has almost round notched leaves. Probably everyone is well aware of the characteristic smell of this plant, which is even used to repel insects. Someone likes this smell, but still the majority treats it without much enthusiasm. Perhaps the smell is one of the few disadvantages of the plant.

The correct name for this houseplant is pelargonium. Geranium is a plant related to pelargonium, cold-resistant and widely growing in middle lane, both in meadows and in flower beds.

Zonal pelargoniums have settled on our windows since time immemorial. I still remember one amazingly beautiful balcony, on which a huge variety of multi-colored pelargoniums grew. When they bloomed, they looked like lush roses from afar. Yes, zonal pelargonium is now often grown in boxes, planting several cuttings next to it, although this method cannot be called ideal. Pelargonium does not like crowded content, especially because with such a growth, plants are easily infected from each other with various diseases. Nevertheless, even in the distant times of our childhood, when we did not know anything about new varieties and could not exchange plants over the Internet, the color of the flowers of the zonal pelargonium was very diverse: from bright red to pink, salmon and white. If someone thinks that this is an uninteresting, out of fashion grandmother's flower, he will be very surprised when he finds out how many different varieties of this plant have been bred recently. They differ not only in color, but also in the shape of the inflorescences, as well as in the color of the leaves.

The variety of pelargonium zonal stellars has a special leaf shape. It is characterized by a star-shaped leaf with a variety of colors; there are, among others, two-, three-color varieties. There are many other varieties with a variety of leaf colors. These are fancy leaf varieties that tolerate direct sunlight very well, silver leaf, the leaves of which have a white edging. The tri-colored variety is surprisingly beautiful, with more than three colors of leaves in color, and a butterfly leaf in the center of the leaves has a spot that resembles a butterfly.

You can find even more varieties of pelargonium with different unusual shape and color of flowers. Some of them resemble roses and tulips. These are the well-known rosebuds. Their flowers have an amazing structure: a large number of petals that do not have time to open and therefore resemble roses. Other pelargoniums are called tulip flowered because their flowers actually look like small, unopened tulips. Speckled flowered - they are distinguished by multi-colored spots on the petals. Even more surprising are the flowers of the cactus-flowering pelargoniums. They have long and narrow petals that make them akin to cactus flowers. However, this is only a small part of the varieties of zonal pelargonium known today.

In addition, among all the varieties described above, differing in the type of flowers and leaves, dwarf and miniature plants are distinguished. Dwarfs have a height of no more than 20 cm, they are grown in pots with a diameter of 11 cm. Miniature varieties are even smaller, their height does not exceed 12.5 cm, and the pot that suits them should not be more than 8 cm in diameter.

The second, also very common type of pelargonium - royal pelargonium... By its name, one can judge the appearance of the plant: it has amazingly beautiful large flowers of different colors. In royal pelargonium, moreover, the leaves have a different shape and a jagged edge. If zonal pelargonium is grown in flower beds in the summer, a houseplant for the warm season can be planted in open ground, then royal pelargonium grows exclusively in indoor conditions.

Very common and unpretentious aromatic pelargonium... They really have a pleasant smell, which can be quite varied. This group includes a large number of species. Their main feature is that when touched, they can emit the smell of rose, lemon, peppermint. Most often, amateurs grow interspecific hybrids of these plants, for example, Pelargonium odorous and Pelargonium radens. They have beautifully carved leaves and flowers of various colors of medium size.

Another group of pelargoniums that is gaining popularity are pelargonium ivy... These are very common ampelous plants in Europe, which are grown in hanging baskets. Their leaves, indeed, resemble ivy leaves, and the flower petals are narrower.

Worth mentioning succulent pelargoniums with powerful shoots. These plants can also be grown as bonsai trees.

Finally, there are angels and unique people known among connoisseurs of pelargoniums. Have angels flowers are similar to pansies: the top two, as a rule, are darker and larger than the bottom three. The flowers seem to be voluminous, turned outward. The leaves are almost the same as those of royal pelargoniums, only smaller. At the same time, there are variegated varieties. Care for angels is almost the same as for zonal pelargonium, although these plants were obtained as hybrids of royal pelargonium and curly. Unique oddly enough, it is a very old group of pelargoniums, known since the 19th century; these are hybrids bred on the basis of royal pelargoniums. At first, they tried to grow them as a flower bed plant, and it was not possible to achieve flowering of a new variety. Only later, during the dry summer, the unique ones finally bloomed. The flowers of the unique pelargoniums generally resemble royal pelargoniums, only of a smaller size. These pelargoniums require a bright sun.

Origin

Pelargoniums (unlike geraniums) are of southern origin, they are native to Africa. This is truly a plant for all times, in Europe they began to be cultivated in the 17th century. However, Pelargonium was especially widespread in the Victorian era.

In the taxonomy of pelargonium, a certain confusion was introduced by Karl Linnaeus, known to any botanist, who united all geraniums into one genus. And only the Frenchman Sh.-L. Laritier singled out a separate genus "pelargonium". The plant got its name from the Latin word pelagros - "stork". It is interesting that already in the 19th century there were quite a few cultivars of this plant. However, in the last century, their number began to grow at an amazing rate. V last years there are more and more cultivars, which are gladly and impatiently acquired by numerous collectors. Interestingly, in the US homemade pelargonium is called "Lady Washington", and in the UK - all indoor plant varieties are called royal pelargonium.

My history of pelargonium

I have been growing this flower for many years: both successfully and not very well. Wonderfully beautiful plants of zonal pelargonium grew on my south window. The only thing I didn't like was the constant pruning of the plant. I always regret throwing away the cuttings, so soon the amount of my pelargoniums exceeded all permissible limits. These were the most common varieties with reds, whites and pink flowers... I planted many cuttings in a long box on the balcony, and they thrived and bloomed with amazing intensity. I had to distribute cuttings to whoever they could. There were absolutely no problems with the plant, except for its incredible desire to grow and spread.

My passion for pelargonium ended as soon as I changed my apartment. On the dark eastern windows of the new house, the plant's appearance was, to put it mildly, depressing. Pelargonium grew pretty well and even bloomed, but the number of inflorescences was 5 times less than that to which I was used to. And the most unpleasant thing is that by the middle of summer all the plants sported an ugly bare stem and a small bunch of leaves at the top. It was not possible to force the plant to take a compact form. Constant pruning led to the fact that flower buds did not have time to form, flowering practically stopped. In general, pelargonium is not a plant for dark rooms. And if you have a lot of light, it will give you unforgettable joy with its incessant flowering and magnificent appearance.

At work, I was given a shoot of fragrant pelargonium. To be honest, I do not know exactly its specific name. My window there faced north, so the plant was also strongly stretched, I cut it off, it stretched again. True, it bloomed a couple of times, but you can hardly call it beautiful.

Bloom

Although there are a large number of pelargoniums valued for their beautiful leaves, flowering is still the main asset of this plant. Pelargonium blooms a lot and for a long time, practically from spring to late autumn. The color and shape of flowers is different and depends on the species and variety.

Lighting

Bright lighting is very important for all varieties and types of pelargonium. Although many books on indoor floriculture, especially old ones, talk about shade tolerance of pelargonium, this is fundamentally wrong. On the northern windows, the plant will not die, but its appearance will be more than deplorable. It is unlikely that you will be satisfied with the lack of flowering, thin weak, bare in the lower part of the stems, small pale leaves. On the east and west windows, pelargonium will grow and bloom, but the most beautiful, compact form and regular flowering can be obtained only on the south window. Pelargonium requires at least 4-8 hours of direct sun per day. Keeping in the south window or in the garden in the sun is essential for the flowering of royal pelargoniums. True, on the hottest days it will not be superfluous to shade the plant. Too bright sun is especially dangerous for ivy-leaved pelargoniums. It can cause yellow spots to appear on their leaves.

To form a compact form in winter, you can use additional supplementary lighting of plants, placing lamps at a height of 8-10 cm above them.

Proper watering can also be called one of the fundamental factors in caring for pelargoniums. On the one hand, plants do not like overdrying very much, in this case their leaves quickly droop and turn yellow. However, excessive moisture is also unfavorable for pelargoniums, especially in the cold in winter. It is best to water infrequently, when the topsoil dries up, but abundantly. In winter, pelargoniums are rarely watered and little by little, about once every 2 weeks, and it is better to water in the morning so that the soil has time to dry out a little by the evening. Excessive watering most often leads to rotting of the root system and the death of the plant.

Waterlogging is extremely dangerous for miniature varieties of pelargonium, the root system of which rots very quickly when waterlogged.

Fertilizer

As for most flowering plants, complex fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus are needed for pelargonium. The relative proportion of nitrogen should be small, because otherwise, the plant will start growing and stop blooming. At the same time, dwarf and miniature pelargoniums will begin to release huge leaves. On the contrary, a lack of nutrients will slow down growth and lead to leaf chlorosis. The optimal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 9:18:11. It is better to apply fertilizers in a chelated form. Either special feeding for pelargonium or tomatoes, or Kemira-lux fertilizer will do. Of course, fertilization should be applied no earlier than 1.5 months after plant transplantation. It is also best to use a very diluted fertilizer, but apply it more frequently.

In winter, fertilize about once a month, diluting the mineral complex 4 times. Miniature and dwarf varieties do not fertilize at all. For pelargoniums, spraying with zircon is useful along with feeding (4 drops per glass of water).

When caring for pelargonium, it is very important to timely remove wilted flowers and dried leaves in order to avoid the appearance and spread of various fungal infections.

Humidity

Pelargonium is one of the few plants that does not need high humidity and regular spraying. However, in winter, pelargoniums are extremely poorly tolerated by dry air from radiators. Therefore, it is better to place the pots in trays with damp expanded clay.

Temperature

Different types of pelargonium have slightly different requirements for temperature regime, however, all indoor representatives of geraniums are thermophilic, they are unlikely to be able to withstand temperatures below +8 0 C. Pelargonium zonal in summer it prefers a daytime temperature of + 20-23 0 С, and at night - a lower one - + 13-15 0 С.

In winter, the temperature of the content of pelargonium can be + 18-20 0 С during the day and + 12-13 0 С at night. It is very important to protect plants from drafts and dry air from batteries. Leaves should not touch cold glass.

Of fundamental importance for flowering and normal growth is the temperature of winter maintenance for royal pelargonium... Some floriculture guides even say that these plants bloom only once in an apartment, after which the plant can be thrown away. The fact is that for flowering and the formation of a compact form of royal pelargonium, along with bright light, a cool winter content is required at a temperature of + 8-10 0 C. It is best if these plants remain in the winter on an insulated loggia, where they can withstand temperatures even +4 0 C (of course, watering the plant at such temperatures should be extremely careful). In the event that it is not possible to provide a cool wintering for royal pelargonium, the way out will gradually take the plant out to the balcony in spring, when the temperature there reaches about + 8-10 0 C. Of course, the plant must be slowly accustomed to low temperatures, leaving it on the balcony at first 2-3 hours, gradually increasing the time spent in the cold (otherwise, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow massively). In this case, pelargonium will probably bloom, but a little later: not in February, but in the middle of summer. One way or another, some growers claim that they manage to achieve flowering of the plant, even without a cold dormant period, but there is no complete guarantee of flowering with a warm year-round keeping of the plant. However, there is good news: some varieties of royal pelargoniums, for example, "Sally Monroe ( Sally munro) "Do not require a dormant period for flowering.

Because in winter, with insufficient lighting, pelargoniums tend to stretch, sometimes they are forced into a state of dormancy. For example, plants can be removed from pots, shaken off the ground and suspended in bunches at a temperature of + 3-8 0 C. Sometimes it is still necessary to lower the roots into water to avoid complete drying out of the plants. In the spring, the plants are shortened by a third and planted.

Before the onset of winter dormancy, you can shorten the plants in half (and zonal pelargoniums even by 2/3), cut the roots, plant the plants in pots and keep them all winter cool place(during the winter, remove yellowed leaves and check that the plant does not rot and the soil does not dry out).

Substrate

The soil for pelargonium should not be too humus, because in this case, the vegetative mass will begin to develop vigorously: shoots and leaves, and the flowering will be weak. It is preferable to choose a substrate that is loose, breathable, consisting, for example, of equal parts of humus, leafy, turfy soil and sand. You can use a mixture of peat, perlite, sand and loamy soil (pH 6.5). You can use a sand-rich cactus soil to which vermiculite is added (half a glass per liter). It is advisable to add one part of the peat mixture to two parts of this mixture. Charcoal can be added to the potting mix to prevent rotting, especially if there is a tendency to constantly flood the plants.

Transfer

Pelargoniums are transplanted when their overgrown roots appear through the drainage hole. Transplanting can be carried out throughout the growing season, i.e. from spring to autumn, sometimes you have to replant plants even 2 times a year. When transplanting young pelargoniums, the diameter of the pot is increased by no more than 1.5 cm; when transplanting adult plants, it is not necessary to increase the size of the pot, you just need to change the soil substrate. It is very important not to use large pots for dwarf and miniature varieties, as in too large a flowerpot, the likelihood of rotting of their root systems is very high. It is better to choose clay pots for pelargonium, because in them root systems breathe better, but it is worth considering that the soil will dry out faster in them.

Formation

Correct formation pelargonium is one of the main difficulties in caring for them. It is worth remembering right away that if you do not form a plant, then soon they will either turn into ugly elongated sticks with rare flowers, or, even worse, various diseases can develop in the absence of sufficient air exchange and light. On the other hand, pruning and pinching will delay flowering as flower bud laying takes about 3 months.

Zonal pelargoniums should be cut off most radically, especially in autumn, because they are distinguished by the most intensive growth. Angels tend to form more or less compact bushes.

Royal pelargoniums are usually pruned at the end of the season. The last pinching must be done no later than August-September, so that young shoots can form. First of all, too elongated shoots are cut off, as well as branches that grow inside the crown. Royal Pelargoniums should not be pruned too much; in general, this species does not need radical pruning.

For trimming, a sharp blade should be used, which must first be disinfected.

Difficulties

Among the pests of pelargonium, the most insidious is the whitefly, which most often affects the plant. If the lesion is not very strong, wash the plant well enough, treat it with soap and cover with a bag for several days. If the number of pests is very large, it is necessary to water the plant at least three times with Aktara with an interval of 6-7 days.

Pelargoniums can also suffer from spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids.

Another formidable disease that cannot be fought is black leg. Most often, it affects cuttings and young plants. It can be caused by a heavy waterlogged substrate, low temperature, too large a pot. It is almost impossible to save the plant.

Fungal infections and mold are another problem. The symptom is yellowing of the leaves and a grayish coating on them, brown spots. The plant must be immediately treated with a fungicide.

If white circles appear on the leaves, and a brown powdery coating appears underneath, this is a symptom of rust.

The stretching of the plant, weak flowering and rapid exposure of the lower part of the trunk are a sign of a lack of light. The lack of flowering and the large number of large leaves are the result of excess fertilization. Yellowing of the lower leaves can be a symptom of insufficient watering. Leaves can dry out if the temperature is too high.

Reproduction

The most common and easiest way to propagate is by cuttings. It is this method that allows you to preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant. If the plant is strongly stretched, its constant renewal from cuttings may be the only way to keep it. Cuttings are harvested in March-April or August-September (for plant renewal), although rooting of pelargonium goes well throughout the year.

For ordinary pelargoniums, the length of the cutting should be 7-15 cm, while in dwarf and miniature varieties, the cuttings can be only 2 cm (it is rather difficult to cut them). Cut the cuttings across the stem with a sharp blade under the leaf node, 0.5 cm lower. Peduncles are removed (although sometimes it happens that even the stalk of pelargonium blooms, but it is better not to allow this, otherwise the cut will spend a lot of energy on flowering, and they will not be left to form roots and green mass. Cuttings of royal pelargonium after flowering will not take root at all). Too much large leaves can be cut in half to reduce evaporation. The cut can be dried and treated with a root in the event that the cuttings are weak or taken from weakened plants (but this is not necessary). It is better to break off the bottom sheet.

In most cases, cuttings of zoned pelargonium root perfectly in water. However, it is better to plant them in a peat and perlite substrate. It should be wet, but not wet under any circumstances. the most important reason for the death of the cutting is that a black leg appears in a substrate that is too wet and heavy, in the cold. It is best to use a clear glass to keep track of root development. Next time you need to water the cutting in about 1-2 days. Rooting is desirable under diffused light conditions. For zonal pelargoniums, it is better to maintain a temperature of about + 20-25 0 С, rooting lasts about 2 weeks. For rooting angels, ivy and royal pelargoniums, the optimum temperature is +18 0 С, it is better not to root them in water. Royal pelargoniums can take up to three months to take root. After root formation, young plants are placed in brighter light conditions. If the cutting was rooted in August-September, it will bloom in spring, and with normal maintenance, even in winter.

Pelargonium can be propagated by seed. Prepare them first by placing them in a wet paper towel. If the seed has a thick skin, it can be rubbed gently with fine sandpaper. However, commercially available seeds usually do not have a thick shell.

The seeds are sown in a wet mixture of peat and perlite (1:10). Seeds should be lightly sprinkled with soil mixture (about 3 mm), cover the seed pots with glass or plastic wrap... Seeds are germinated at a temperature of + 21-23 0 C. As a rule, germination lasts up to two weeks. After the emergence of seedlings, the glass is removed, and the dish is placed in diffused lighting conditions. Reduce watering a little. After the appearance of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive. Illumination is desirable for the normal development of plants. If very valuable varieties are germinating, in order to avoid their possible mass contamination, it is better to germinate each seed in a separate pot.

Toxicity

Pelargoniums are not toxic, on the contrary, they purify the air from pathogens.

If on vacation

If you are leaving for 2-3 weeks, pelargonium will wait for your return. Do not overfill the plant before leaving. It is better to remove it away from the southern window, cover the top layer of soil with wet expanded clay, and place the pot in wet peat.

(The article uses materials from the magazine "Home Flowers" and "My Favorite Flowers" for 2010-2013.)

These flowers have lived on our windowsills for centuries. We call them geraniums out of habit, although in reality they are pelargonium. A relative of field geraniums, together with her she belongs to the same family - Geraniums. Caring for pelargonium at home is simple, and a huge variety of varieties will allow everyone to choose a plant to their liking.

The genus Pelargonium is numerous and includes about 250 species. But not all of them have been introduced into the culture. Through the efforts of flower growers, many magnificent varieties of this flower have been created. Similar features make it possible to distinguish the following groups.

Pelargonium is zonal.

This most numerous group includes about 1000 varieties. The plant is unpretentious. When grown outdoors in warm climates, it resembles a tree, reaching a height of several meters. In indoor culture, the size is much more modest, but some specimens reach a height of 1 meter. There are absolutely crumbs no higher than 12.5 cm - such zonal pelargonium called miniature. All varieties of this group are united by one common feature: rings on leaves, which can be bright and contrasting or barely noticeable. The color palette of inflorescences is very diverse - all shades of red and pink, white, cream and yellow. There are varieties whose petals are painted in several shades of one or different colors... The varieties of this group are so diverse that within it there is its own division according to the strength of growth, the number of petals and the shape of the inflorescence. Variegated varieties are distinguished separately.

Rosebuds or Pelargoniums rosebud. Sometimes they are also called rosaceous - the numerous petals of double flowers twisted to the center really resemble miniature roses. Varieties of rosebud pelargonium: Scarlet Rambler, Australian Pink Rambler.
In star-shaped pelargoniums, the flowers resemble stars, and the leaves are strongly dissected and look like an open human palm with spread fingers. Popular varieties are Faye Brawner and Robyn Hannah.
In carnation pelargoniums, the edges of the petals have teeth like those of carnation flowers. The most interesting varieties: Pat Hannam Graffity, Violet.
Cactus pelargoniums resemble cactus dahlias with their disheveled flowers. Noteworthy are the varieties Ardwick Cinnamon and Bevis.
In Pelargonium tulip-shaped, represented by three dozen hybrid varieties, the flowers are like small tulip buds that do not fully open. The most unusual and original varieties among them are Happy Birthday and Lovely, Popcorn.
Terry Salmon Komtess, Appleblossom, Edwards Embers, Langelands, Brixworth-Rosebud and miniature so-called "Deacons": Moonlight, Birthday, Finale are very attractive.

Pelargonium royal.

They named it for their exactingness to the conditions of detention, and not for large flowers, sometimes called large-flowered. It has several hundred varieties with a variety of colors. In some of them, the flower size reaches 8 cm in diameter. They are never monochromatic and contrasting spots or stripes are always present on the petals. The leaves of the royal pelargonium are slightly corrugated, have pointed edges. Beautiful Mandarin, Strawberry cream, Candy Flowers Peach Cloud.

Among the royal pelargoniums, a species called "Angel" stands out. Some growers distinguish them into a separate group. Its peculiarity is large flowers, similar to pansies, with small bushes - only about 30 cm.This species is less capricious than royal pelargonium - plants bloom well even in the shade and do not require formation, keeping neat bushes on their own. The most interesting varieties: Spanish Angel, Darmsderm, Sardunya, Henry Weller.

Pelargonium ivy.

Its leaves are similar to ivy leaves and do not have pubescence, and long flexible shoots hang down in cascades, for which it is often called ampelous pelargonium. Indeed, this flower looks most advantageous when planted in pots. Among ampel pelargonium there are varieties with variegated leaves, and the color of flowers varies from purple to red. Interesting varieties: Tomcat, Jester Red / Wite, Aristo Black Beauty.

Fragrant pelargonium.

This species is not bred for the sake of flowers, which, in general, are small in size and rather inconspicuous. The main advantage of this group is fragrant leaves with the smell of various fruits, flowers and spices: nutmeg, verbena, apple, pineapple, peach, lemon. If you touch the leaf, it releases essential oils, for which this plant is so rich, and they cause a strong smell. The following varieties can be found in the room: Chocolate Mint smells like mint, Attar of Roses smells like a rose, and Cy's Sunburst smells like lemon. The leaves of the latter variety are strongly corrugated and have a golden border, which makes it very decorative.

Pelargonium: cultivation features

Each type of this plant has its own characteristics of care. But there are also patterns common to all colors of this genus. Geranium vegetation is subject to the change of seasons and the care of the flower in each season will be different.

Home care

Most pelargoniums are native to the savannahs of South Africa. Hence the love for the sun, and the ability to tolerate a lack of moisture. Prolonged indoor cultivation did little to change the habits of the plant.

Ground requirement

Correctly selected soil will ensure good development of the plant and its abundant flowering.

What should it be?

loose, it is good to allow air and water to pass through, and also to hold it;
light in texture with the inclusion of sand, moss or perlite;
the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic;
For pelargonium, a nutritious soil is suitable, but without excess nitrogen, which will cause the growth of leaves, not flowers.

For a novice grower, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made soil mixture specifically for pelargoniums. Experts compose the soil on their own. There are several options for the planting mixture.

ready-made soil - 10 parts;
chopped sphagnum moss - 1 part;
sand - 1 part;
humus 0.5 part.

Or this: a mixture of humus, leaf and sod land, peat and sand, taken in equal parts.

Temperature, humidity and lighting

During the period of active vegetation and flowering (from March to September), a comfortable temperature for pelargonium is from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. During the period of forced dormancy, it is lower - from 12 to 15 degrees. The plant loves fresh air, but it does not like the draft and the royal pelargonium is especially sensitive to it.

The flower does not need increased air humidity. It is enough if it is within 50%. These plants do not need spraying - pubescent leaves do not tolerate water droplets well.

All types of pelargonium love light. But they need different lighting. If even the midday sun is suitable for ivy, then it is better to shade the royal and zonal ones at these hours. But for this plant, an excess of the sun is less destructive than a lack, therefore, with poor lighting, the flowering weakens, the intensity of the color of the leaves decreases.

In any light, the pelargonium pot needs to be rotated slightly clockwise every few days so that the plant is symmetrical.

Watering the plant

It is better to underfill this plant than to overflow. It will easily endure a slight drought, and overflow is fraught with rotting of the root, root collar and the appearance of gray mold. It's time to water the pelargonium if the topsoil in the pot is dry. In summer, this is done more often, depending on the air temperature, in winter, watering should be rare, and their number depends on the lighting. With a long daylight hours and intense lighting, the plant is watered more often. Water for it needs soft, room temperature.

Top dressing and fertilization

Intense bloom requires good nutrition. But this flower does not tolerate organic fertilizers. Fertilizer mixtures for flowering plants or special fertilizer for geraniums "Pelargovit" are suitable. Before flowering or at the beginning, additional feeding with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers is required. During the period of forced dormancy, additional nutrition is not required for the plants.

Pruning and replanting

If from drain hole roots appeared in the pot - it's time to transplant the geraniums. This usually happens every 2 years.

How to transplant a plant?

Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. A container that is too spacious will cause vigorous growth of leaves, and flowering may not occur until it is completely filled with roots.
At the bottom of a pot with a large hole for water drainage, a drainage from expanded clay, fragments of brick and pieces of old pots is placed.
A plant in an old pot is watered, removed, carefully separating it from the walls and without destroying the earthen lump.
Pour a little damp earth into a new container, place a flower and fill the voids along the walls of the pot with also damp earth.
Next watering in 3 days.

Pelargonium pruning is an essential part of grooming. During the winter, the flower is strongly stretched, the stems are bare. In the spring, to give it a beautiful shape and stimulate the regrowth of new flowering shoots, the stems are cut, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each. All sections are treated with fungicide, colloidal sulfur or crushed coal. During the summer, dry leaves and faded flowers are removed and, if necessary, the shoots are pinched for better tillering.

Care for geraniums in the fall, preparation for winter

In order for the plant to rest, conditions are created for it for a state of forced dormancy: the temperature is lowered to 15 degrees, fertilizing is canceled or made rare. Watering at this time is best done through the pan, leaving the top of the potted soil dry. But the lighting for the plant cannot be reduced. If there is no way to significantly lower the temperature, the geranium needs to be illuminated.

Reproduction of pelargonium

It is very easy to propagate this flower. Cuttings taken from plants root well. For non-hybrid varieties, seed propagation is also used.

Cuttings

The easiest way to get a new plant. Pelargonium is short-lived, after 4-5 years the plant degenerates and it has to be replaced with a new one grown from a cuttings. They can be taken during the entire period of active growth and flowering, but it is easier to combine this procedure with spring pruning - there will be enough material for choosing good cuttings. For ordinary varieties, the length of the cutting is from 5 to 7 cm, for dwarf and miniature varieties - only 2-3 cm.

How to root them?

We make a lower oblique cut.
Remove the 2 bottom stipules.
Let the cuttings dry out a little.
We immerse the cut in a powder root stimulator.
We sterilize the soil for planting and pour it into a small container.
We plant the cutting in moist soil.

The rooting process lasts 2 to 4 weeks. The rooted plant is planted in a permanent place.

Seeding Algorithm:

we sow in loose moist soil, spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, to a depth of about 2 cm;
cover the container with glass or put a plastic bag on it, put it in a warm place;
do not forget to air the crops and moisten them from a spray bottle;
as soon as the shoots have appeared, we remove the shelter;
water as needed;
We plant in pots after the formation of 2 true leaves.

By dividing the bush

This method is used if the bush has grown a lot. Usually it is combined with a plant transplant. Pelargonium taken out of the pot is carefully divided into parts, keeping at each growth point and part of the roots. All damage is sprinkled with crushed coal or colloidal sulfur. The separated plants are planted in separate pots.

Disease and pest control

When the soil is waterlogged, gray mold may appear - a gray bloom on the leaves. All diseased leaves are removed, the plant is dried and treated with a fungicide.

When root rot or rot of the root collar appears, no measures will help - the plant will die.

Sometimes there are others in pelargonium. fungal diseases: verticillary wilting and rust. For all fungal diseases, preventive treatments with fungicides before wintering are effective.

When geraniums are affected by whiteflies, mealybugs, aphids and thrips, it must be treated with approved for use in closed room insecticides.

Why does geranium turn yellow, dry, not bloom?

If the condition of the plant is good, but it does not want to bloom, the possible reasons are as follows:

too spacious a pot;
excessively high temperature;
excessive watering;
insufficient lighting.

The leaves begin to dry out and turn yellow when there is a lack of moisture. And if the stem is very bare, the plant does not have enough light.

Pelargonium is a plant of the geranium family, often called geranium in everyday life. This is not entirely true, but it so happened that if it comes about an indoor flower, then it is still rarely called pelargonium. Meanwhile, geranium is a plant of a different genus, which does not even cross with pelargonium, but belongs to the same family. Real geranium is an outdoor, perennial, cold-resistant plant. In indoor conditions, various types and varieties of pelargonium have been growing for a long time. It is a very decorative houseplant that has undergone significant changes thanks to the efforts of breeders, and has become even more beautiful.

Pelargonium is an easy-to-grow flower. Modern hybrids have adaptive properties, and rare of them have special requirements for growing conditions. These plants are often on sale, and amateur growers also distribute surplus of their collections. The cost of the flower is affordable.

Landing

Optimal time

On sale, pelargoniums appear in large quantities in the spring in the form of adult plants, covered with buds and flowers. It is at this time that they appear in the house.

Planting method

In this form, it is not advisable to change the land in them, transport soil, a little tucked into the farm nutrients, need to be left on the roots. Therefore, planting implies at this time transshipment into another pot, with the addition of soil, if necessary, along the edges of the container. And one more thing: very often Dutch pets are planted in the ground without drainage; when buying from the bottom holes, overgrown roots are already visible. This encourages new plant owners to choose a much larger pot. But this is wrong.

The pot is chosen 1 - 3 cm larger in diameter and the same depth. Drainage is added to the bottom, it is covered with soil, the plant is removed from the shipping pot and placed in a new one. The gaps are filled with earth, the plant is watered. That's it, the plant has been planted. It is better to put it in a cool and not brightly lit place for some time to adapt to new conditions.

Substrate

For growing pelargonium, ready-made universal soil, not particularly rich in organic matter, is quite suitable. Otherwise, too nutritious soil will contribute to the rapid development of foliage to the detriment of flowering.

Care

Place and light

Pelargoniums like bright enough lighting, but they prefer east or west to the south window in summer. In winter they grow beautifully on the south side. Many respond well to light shading during flowering - the corollas of flowers in this case are more saturated in color, and the flowering itself lasts longer.

In winter, in the absence of a dormant period, very good lighting must be provided.

Air humidity

The plant does not require high humidity and spraying. Pelargonium leaves are designed in such a way that moisture evaporation is very economical, and they do not suffer from the dryness of the surrounding air. After hygienic water procedures, the flower should not be exposed wet in the sun, you must wait until the leaves are completely dry in the shade.

Temperature

Pelargoniums are able to grow and develop well in summer in conditions of high temperatures, however, at a moderate temperature, the inflorescences on the plant remain longer. That is why autumn bloom it is usually more lush and longer than summer.

A cool habitat is also beneficial in winter, but this is not an absolute requirement: most modern hybrids grow and bloom well. all year round without lowering the temperature.

Watering

Pelargoniums do not like excessive watering. They need abundant, but not frequent soil moisture. In between irrigations, the soil should dry out sufficiently. In winter, at low temperatures, this is especially important - excess moisture can destroy the plant.

Top dressing

Fertilizers are rarely used. After the spring transplant and summer flowering, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is possible, but in no case with nitrogen fertilizers. In winter, pelargoniums are not fed, no matter how they are kept at this time.

Pruning

By the spring, especially during warm wintering, the plant is strongly elongated, becomes "ankle", because lower leaves fall off, internodes increase. To increase the decorative effect of the bush, the branches are shortened.

Cut method

No matter how the pelargonium grows over the winter, it should be cut into a stump no more than 15 cm high. This will help awaken dormant buds, which will give rise to new branches. The plant will be thick and strong.

The cut parts are divided into cuttings and used for propagation.

Transfer

In the spring, a plant is also transplanted. It is convenient to combine these procedures.

Transplant method

After pruning, the stump is removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned from the old soil, straightened and pruned. After dipping the cuts in charcoal, the plant is planted in a fresh earthen mixture. The pot can be used as before - the number of roots and branches has decreased, there is no need to increase the volume. The soil is well compacted, but it is not watered abundantly - there are still few leaves on the hemp or they are absent altogether, evaporation will be minimal. The first week after transplantation, pelargonium is kept in a shaded place.

Reproduction

Another spring event held in the spring is breeding.

Reproduction methods

seminal: there are often mix seeds on sale. They are quite suitable for organizing a collection, since sown in early spring or late winter, young plants bloom in the same summer, and then it becomes clear what color the plants appeared in the house. Usually propagated by seeds unpretentious plants, but no less beautiful from this. Often, as a result of partial cleavage of the characteristics of hybrid varieties, plants are peculiar, unusual in color, even unique.
cuttings : after spring pruning, a large number of cut branches remain. They are cut into cuttings of 10 cm, the lower leaves are cut off, the slices are slightly dried (about 1 hour) and planted in the ground or placed in an opaque dish for rooting in water.

Important: A little water is poured into the container, the stalk should be immersed in it by 1 - 2 cm with the lower end, no more. And it is better if it does not touch the bottom of the container.

Bloom

Pelargonium blooms profusely and continuously every year.

Dates and flowers

From early spring to late autumn, pelargonium is in bloom. During this time, several waves of flowering pass, between which new branches grow. For some owners, these plants bloom all year round, not focusing on the season, which means that the conditions are right. But it is more correct to give Pelargonium 3 months of rest so that it can gain strength.

Flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence. The colors are the most varied, of all shades, up to almost black, and mixed, as well as speckled.

After flowering

When each inflorescence begins to wilt, it is removed, because unnecessary fruits are formed very quickly, which deplete the plant. At the end of the flowering period, in the fall, you can feed pelargonium once with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. To stimulate new flowering in winter, you need to prune without waiting for spring. In this case, the lighting should be very good. It should be remembered, however, that any continuously flowering plant is exhausted early, becomes weak and at the slightest trouble gets sick.

There are not so many types of pelargoniums grown at home. But within each species there is a sufficient number of varieties, which makes the range of pelargoniums truly immense.

Pelargonium zonal(garden) – the most widespread and most varied species. Characteristic feature- rounded leaves, with areas highlighted in color. This zoning is especially noticeable when growing a plant in good lighting.

This species gave rise to the classification of pelargonium by flower shape:

simple: in the inflorescence there are simple five-petal flowers, often quite large (chandeliers), numerous, creating an umbrella of impressive size, one-two-ton color, sometimes speckled, for example, Carmel;
semi-double : the flower is no longer flat, but not yet terry, the color is varied, for example, Gerda;
terry : double row of petals of different colors, for example, miniature Brookside, standard Lara;
stellate: the petals are not rounded, but sharp, narrow, simple and semi-double, the color is varied, for example, miniature Vectis;
rosebuton (rosebud, rosebud) - flowers in the form of roses, collected in a characteristic umbrella - a very popular trend in breeding. Simple rosettes of small size, usually red in color and its shades. More complex hybrids - large, varied color combinations... Apple Blossom varieties are very decorative ( Appleblossom), Denise, April Snow (April Snow), dwarf Odense ( Odensjo).
tulip : flowers in an umbrella inflorescence in the form of unopened tulips, in white-pink-red tones, for example, a series Pandora Red and Pink (Pandora Red and Pink).

Pelargonium grandiflora (royal, large-flowered) - the leaves are serrated, hard, the flowers are not collected in an inflorescence, single, large, non-colored, for example, Bravo, David... Blooms profusely, requires a dormant period in winter.

Pelargonium ivy - leaves without pubescence, similar to ivy leaves. Often ampelous or creeping. In hybrid varieties, there are double and rosebud flowers, for example, Viva.

Pelargonium fragrant - Strongly cut leaves with a pronounced aroma. The flowers are inconspicuous, small, simple, white, pink or lilac, rarely yellow. The smell of vanilla, pine needles, mint, rose, lemon, for example, Citrosis.

Zonal and ivy-leaved pelargoniums can have an additional decorative element - variegation on the leaves (various colors)

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium, thanks to its essential oils, deter most pests. Moreover, insects in general, including mosquitoes and flies, penetrate less into the room where these plants are.

In case of high humidity, fungal infection can occur. If the trunk is affected, the black leg is at the base, then the specimen can no longer be saved. In this case, healthy parts are cut as early as possible with the aim of further rooting. If the flower is affected by gray rot, then the diseased leaves are removed, the plant is treated with foundation.

The viral disease of pelargonium is rare. Its symptom is the appearance of concentric spots on the leaves with a yellow center, which later necrotic. The virus infects the plant as a whole, cuttings cannot be taken for reproduction, the flower must be destroyed.

Note to the flower grower

For abundant flowering, pelargonium must grow in a cramped pot. A small volume stimulates the development of flower buds and prevents the occurrence of rot - the soil dries out quickly.
Pelargoniums clean the indoor air not only from dust, but also from pathogenic microbes and viruses.

Frequently asked Questions

Pelargonium lives for a long time, but after 5 years it significantly loses its decorative effect. You can grow it in the future as a bonsai, using the thickening of the trunk as a decorative element, this is now a very popular trend. But for typical development, a stalk is rooted and a new plant is grown.

Is pelargonium poisonous?

The plant is not poisonous. Several types of related geraniums are used for food.

Why doesn't it bloom? Some species, such as royal pelargonium, do not bloom unless there is a drop in temperature during the dormant period in winter.

Pelargonium often does not bloom in winter, even in warm conditions.

Why do the leaves turn yellow, dry, curl?

This happens most often in winter. The plant does not have enough light, it stretches and sheds some leaves, especially in the lower part. After spring pruning, buds will begin to wake up on the trunk, and the plant will be covered with greenery.

If the leaves turn yellow in spots, and not at the edges, and at the same time curl, then a viral infection is possible. It is incurable, it is necessary to destroy the plant in order to prevent spread to other flowers.

Why is pelargonium not growing?

The plant may be dormant. Or it is a dwarf or miniature variety that remains very compact at any age.

Why does pelargonium fade quickly?

Individual inflorescences do not live very long - 2 - 3 weeks. But the flowering of the bush as a whole lasts more than six months, because new flowers appear. The increased air temperature and too bright light, which occurs in the summer on the southern windowsill, shorten the life of flowers.

How to keep pelargonium in winter?

It is best to keep it cool with minimal watering. If this is not possible, then you need to keep it as close to the window as possible, preferably with additional lighting in the darkest months. Water in moderation, do not feed. Pruning and replanting at the end of winter.

Pelargonium is not in vain loved by many generations of flower growers. She brings comfort and tranquility to the house, protects and decorates the home.

The modern variety of varieties allows you to assemble a collection for every taste.

What, no matter how bright the colors, will decorate the windowsill, balcony or mini-flower bed? For those who are not yet an experienced gardener, it is worth choosing a plant that is easy to care for. These include pelargonium zone care at home which requires compliance with several important nuances, but in general it is very simple.

Pelargonium, or more commonly geranium, is popular among lovers of blooming flora in the house. It does not require special conditions, it blooms a lot and brightly, pleases with flowering for more than one year, is rarely exposed to diseases and pests, wonderful decoration room or balcony. Pelargonium zonal has this name due to the special color of the leaves - with a characteristic rim along the edges, dividing the entire surface into two differently colored areas. Flowers can be different shapes, terry or non-terry. Coloring - white, red, purple, coral, pale pink, orange, and others. The plant grows rapidly and reaches a height of 60 cm.

Home care basics

Zonal pelargonium, as already mentioned, is unpretentious. The main thing that you have to do is to create the necessary conditions for her. First of all, to bloom profusely pelargonium zone care behind it requires the location of the pot in the fresh air, in the warmth, in the light. Sunlight should be diffused. Placement of pelargonium on the east window will be successful. It is possible in the south, but be sure to shade the flower at noon, otherwise it may get burned. It is good to take pelargonium out into the garden for the whole summer.

Soil, watering, fertilizers

Pelargonium zoned is a nutrient-dense mixture. For example, this: peat, garden soil, sand (2: 2: 1). You can take another: humus, sod land, peat, sand, mixed in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1. Pelargonium seeds can also be planted in such mixtures. Don't forget about good drainage. You need to be careful with peat - if you take too much of it, the soil will be waterlogged, and this will harm our plant. For pelargonium, it will be helpful to loosen the soil from time to time so that more air can flow to the roots.

Zonal pelargonium is watered abundantly enough during the flowering period - in spring and summer, several times a week, but watering is reduced by winter. The flower does not need to be sprayed on the leaves, since it is able to accumulate moisture itself.

Pelargonium needs to be fed in spring and summer, during periods of growth and flowering. Phosphoric or potash fertilizers posted every two weeks. It is useful for a flower to alternate mineral and organic dressings. Chicken manure is often used as an organic fertilizer.

Transplant, pruning and important points of care at home

The plant is transplanted every two years or once a year. Choose a small pot. When zonal pelargonium reaches 25-30 cm in height, it no longer needs a transplant. Repotting often can disrupt flowering. If you are planting pelargonium bushes in a flower bed, the distance between them should be at least 20-25 cm.

In the spring, the pelargonium bush must be cut off - by about a third, this stimulates future flowering. Weak shoots can be cut in autumn. At the beginning of March, pelargonium can be pinched at the points of growth, this will give more branching. If you purchased a cutting, you need to pinch the top of its head so that the bush grows beautiful.

The conditions for zonal pelargonium bloom are light and temperatures above 12 degrees. In such conditions, it can bloom even in winter. However, it will be more useful to give it a rest by placing it in a cool (but not shaded!) Place. Limit watering.

In spring and summer, the flower should be protected from direct sunlight only if it is behind the glass. In the fresh air, they do not harm pelargonium. The plant is afraid of drafts.

Follow these simple tips - and you will enjoy a blooming and healthy pelargonium zonal, care beyond which will not cause difficulties.

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