Chain-link fence scheme. How to make a chain-link fence - expert advice

Today, there are many ways to enclose a site using a variety of materials. All of them have their own characteristics, indicators of strength and durability. Building a fence with your own hands in our time is not a problem. There is a wide choice of tools for the available materials and any kinds of works with them. However, all this costs a lot of money and labor costs. It is easier and much more economical to build a fence to mark the boundaries of a summer cottage, a place for building from a chain-link mesh - it is easier and much more economical than other types of fences.

Chain-link mesh - what kind of fruit

Chain-link - a mesh structural fabric obtained by mutual screwing of wire spirals. It is a budget material that helps to easily and cheaply solve the issue of limiting the site. It attracts consumers with its numerous advantages and ease of installation.

Characteristic features and its advantages

Mesh netting is a material that is indispensable in the country. It has a huge number of advantages, which include:

• affordable cost. Not every land owner can afford the construction of a fence made of expensive materials. The construction of such fences entails the expenditure of quite tangible funds. The chain-link mesh is inexpensive, does not require additional funds for construction, is easy to use;
• The right fabric will last a long time. For several years it will retain its strength, its original attractive appearance, it will not rust or bend;
• installation of the fence, where the chain-link mesh acts as a key element, is carried out quickly and simply;
• installation of a mesh netting is carried out without the participation of complex tools and fasteners;
• installing a chain-link fence is elementary done by hand, because it can be assembled without welding equipment, which not everyone knows how to handle;
• Mesh design allows air to pass easily and does not cast a shadow, allowing plants to grow undisturbed;
• the material encloses the territory, playground or place for animals;
• requires only minor repairs;
• metal mesh fences do not need a capital frame and foundation;
• dampness and temperature fluctuations do not act on the canvas. Resists fire and power loads;
• chain-link fence is immune to ultraviolet radiation;
• the material is not scarce, it is available in all building materials stores that offer chain-link for any purpose.

Except positive qualities material has a number of disadvantages. This is his transparency and discreet appearance, as well as the need for constant renewal of the paint layer. If the product is chosen correctly, some of the shortcomings simply lose their relevance.

Which chain-link is better for a fence and its types

To choose the right blank for the fence, you need to study the parameters of the feedstock. These are the material, the type of spraying and the size of the cells. The chain-link is made of stainless steel and other metals. The stainless steel gives the web its rigidity, and when the mesh material is made from alternative metals, it bends well.

non-galvanized

The non-galvanized chain-link has a wire cross section of 1.2-5.0 mm, the size of the cells is from 50 to 100 mm. The mesh is cheap, but the metal is not coated protective film, quickly loses its appearance and rusts, so it must be tinted, creating protection from moisture.

galvanized

This mesh is made of rods with a cross section of 1.6-5.0 mm, with cells from 50 to 100 mm. The material does not require protection, including anti-corrosion. Galvanizing is carried out by hot or electrolytic methods, giving the material additional strength.

plasticized

The plasticized mesh is based on a metal wire coated with polymers. Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size - from 25 to 50 mm. Such a canvas looks presentable, stylish and serves its owners for a very long time. Spraying can be of different shades, which gives scope for the implementation of the color design of your site.

When buying a material, it is imperative to check the product certificate, because if you make a mistake, you can get a product that is unable to withstand loads and weather conditions. When choosing a grid, one must take into account that the best mesh size for a fence is considered to be 50 × 50 mm. For the purpose of fencing walking areas, pens and enclosures for animals and birds, you should not choose a small comb, as the fence will be too heavy and warp.

The device of fences from a chain-link mesh according to the type of frame

When preparing to put up a frame fence, you need to decide on the elements of the frame and how to attach the chain-link mesh to metal, brick or other pillars.

Tension fence

The tension fence is very easy to make. The technology for installing such a fence involves the following steps: installing poles and preparing a chain-link that is attached to them. The mesh can be pulled manually, but as a result, it will then begin to sag. Installation of a tension mesh fence can be structurally simplified, avoiding subsidence. Broach significantly strengthens the fence. For this, high strength wire is used, it is threaded through the edge of the chain-link, and the mesh does not sag.

A fence made of chain-link mesh in sections is more expensive than a stretch one. A lot of money will be spent on the purchase of additional components, such as a corner for the skeleton. First you need to make sections. The section of the future chain-link fence is an integral unit of the entire fence. True, its formation will take additional time and money. But such a design will be much more reliable than a tension one, it is practical and durable. A hedge of the described type will work well on uneven terrain, besides the construction solid fences from a chain-link mesh possible without pre-training soil.

What poles can be used to build a chain-link fence

It is important which posts will be chosen for the fence. The mesh has a relatively low weight, which makes it possible to use any support.

Metal racks are a versatile option, but such supports will sometimes need to be tinted. A hollow profile goes to the supporting pillars. Chain-link fences are made using round posts (diameter 60 mm) or rectangular ones (section 40 × 60 mm).

Another easy way is to make fences on wooden supports from chain-link mesh, but this option has a minus. The tree reacts very poorly to temperature changes, rain and snow. A tree of dense species (oak, elm), which could be suitable for a fence, is very expensive. But a more democratic pine, treated accordingly, can last a long time.

You can put a fence on a brick. Although it will be too expensive for a mesh material. Such supports are usually not used because they need a foundation.

It is quite affordable to make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in the country with the use of concrete. Concrete poles are cheaper than brick ones. In the construction hypermarket, you can take ready-made blanks and deliver them. To anchor the grid to concrete pillar, special hooks or welding are applied. It is these fasteners that hold the entire fence. During installation, the mesh must be fixed in a stressed state.

Asbestos-cement pipes can also serve as excellent fence supports. The material has an affordable price and does not rot. However, the installation of the grid will require additional clamps and clamps. Pipes require plugs that cover their tops from moisture. Otherwise, the pipes will break at low temperatures. The number of supports is commensurate with the size of the territory and the specifics of the area. The optimal distance between the posts is approximately 2.5 m.

How to make a chain link fence. Blueprints

The construction of a chain-link fence does not require any special knowledge and skills. To get started, you will need to assemble a set of necessary tools, armed with reference books. Construction is carried out in two ways:

• using welding;
• without welding.

Not every owner of private land knows how to work with welding equipment, so it is better to prefer construction technology without welding. The structure erected in this way will not be inferior to welded in strength. Tools and materials for work:

• chain-link mesh of any variety, depending on the desire of the owner and the available funds;
• poles for supports (metal, wooden, concrete);
• special hooks for fastening;
• crushed stone, cement, sand;
• building level, shovel, tape measure, drill, hammer;
• screws, nails, bolts.

Before starting construction, you should prepare a drawing or sketch of the finished fence, taking into account important points.

1. The main features of the terrain of the site with nearby roads, the location of vegetation, existing buildings.
2. Specific features: the presence of slopes and hills. The information will help you decide what to do next - level the landscape or build a special fence (cascade).
3. Fence length. Its width is determined by the grid parameters.
4. The breakdown of the length into segments separated by supports. Drawing their location.

The design includes an important point about choosing the type of fence and the basis for the mesh, as well as whether fence sections will be made and used from the selected chain-link mesh.

Calculation of the required amount

The footage of the purchased product (grid) is calculated based on the length of the perimeter. The chain-link is on sale rolls (10 linear meters). Average prices:

• galvanized chain-link (50 × 50 × 2 mm) - 54 rubles per square meter;
• non-galvanized chain-link (50 × 50 × 2 mm) - 48 rubles per square meter;
• with the application of polymers (50 × 50 × 2.2 mm) - from 220 rubles per square meter.

The length of the wire for stretching is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two. In the case when an additional chord in the middle is conceived, - by three. The number of supports is calculated based on the length and width of the site. The standard distance between supports is approximately 2.5 meters. If you set a larger distance, the mesh may sag. Sectional fences from any chain-link mesh involve the use of a profile corner, the amount of which is calculated as the perimeter of the core, multiplied by the number of sections. The number of fasteners (clamps for attaching the mesh, hooks) is determined by the selected connection method.

How to stretch a chain-link mesh on a fence: installation of different types of mesh

The main tasks of the builder are to provide tension and prevent sagging. After fixing the canvas along the entire length of the hedge, it is necessary to check the corners at which the presence of distortions will be noticeable. To build a section fence, you need to learn how to make them, which can be difficult for a beginner. The following steps should be taken:

• metal corners are connected to the frame. The length is equal to the size of the support, and the width is equal to the distance between them;
• the corner is cut into blanks;
• the frame is welded from the corner;
• a piece of the desired size is taken from the roll;
• the sides of this segment are fixed with reinforcement. This makes it possible to pull the chain-link to the corners of the frame;
• the bar is connected to the frame by welding.

The second option involves welding hooks (3 mm) inside the corner, on which the chain-link will be pulled. The disadvantage of this method is the possible slippage of the material. To mount the finished frame, it is necessary to weld metal strips to the support, to which it will be attached. It is quite difficult to make a frame fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands. During the preparation process, it may be difficult to:

• make the sections the same;
• install a piece of material without sagging;
• perform welding without experience;
• install sections.

Stretch

One of the easy options country fence is stretch. The method is good for beginners, although it is inferior to the rest in terms of aesthetics. The mesh is stretched and attached directly to the supports. Fastening the chain-link to the posts can be simplified by making corners. The cost of the material for the corners is low, the option will turn out to be quite budgetary.

with wire

This type of fence is built very quickly. To prevent sagging of the upper edge, a wire (steel or sheathed) is pulled along the first row of the fence. The process itself does not take much time. A loop is made at the end of the wire and put on a support. The material is pushed into the cells of the grid and so on until the next support, on which it is necessary to make a new loop or wrap the wire around it. The tension can be provided with twists and a bar.

With welded wire

A bar (6-8 mm), cut to the size of the span, is threaded along the edge of the chain-link. The ends are welded to the supports. Possessing rigidity, the rod does not allow the grid to sag and keeps the horizontal. To ensure strength, you should buy a chain-link with a curved edge. She holds the edge well even without the addition.

With guide rails

To give the fence strength and solidity, it is sometimes reinforced with two guides located longitudinally. You can choose any material for them: wooden beam, pipe and others. When the soil freezes, a tree, being more elastic, can withstand the load on the poles, but metal pipes can simply burst. But in general, such a fence has a large margin of safety.

Fixing the canvas from sagging

To keep the web in a fixed position, it is necessary to lay two reinforcing belts at the top and bottom. Reinforcement elements are threaded into the canvas at a distance of 20 cm from the edges and welded to the supports. This design will securely hold the canvas, preventing it from sagging during operation.

Fence Installation

Installation of the fence must begin from the corner. The mesh roll is unwound and placed at the first support. The edge of the chain-link or its contour is fixed to the welded hooks on the support. Unwinding a roll of material to the size of the span, a piece of reinforcement is threaded in the place of support, which makes it possible to stretch the chain-link well. The stretched material is fixed on the next support with hooks. Actions are repeated until the very end of the perimeter.

How to install a mesh fence on problematic surfaces

If the relief of the site has features (slopes, hills), then when buying materials and choosing the type of fence, you need to stop at the sectional version. A fence with a framed corner will allow you to build a fence and not carry out preliminary work on leveling the ground. A fence of sections can be easily installed with a solid elevation difference and the presence of slopes in the territory.

How to decorate a chain link fence

The chain-link fence in itself does not differ in special beauty and grace. If you wish, you can apply creative methods for transforming your hedge. The easiest way is its decorative landscaping. Climbing plants can be planted along the fence, which will eventually braid the fence and make it beautiful and impervious to prying eyes. You can use hanging pots with plants, hanging them along the perimeter. While the plants have not ennobled the fence, you can place products with decorative weaving on the spans of the fence. Openwork weaving is made from fine wire on the surface of the canvas with large cells.

How to make a chain link fence opaque

In order to somehow reduce the visibility of the territory through a chain-link fence, it is enough to show a little imagination. The fence can be camouflaged with a camouflage net, which will make the fence original and cover the view. This option will appeal to the military, including the former. Using simple ropes of different quality, you can weave in separate sections flower arrangements, designing them in accordance with the overall design. In a grid with large cells, you can insert fragments of colored plastic bottles, which will reduce visibility and not disturb air circulation.

A fence is an essential element of any private property. If country houses experts recommend fencing with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages - their practical and inexpensive options. Most suitable material for a country fence - a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make a durable fence, but also increase the yield of beds, since the design does not interfere natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the access of the sun to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of the chain-link mesh, its advantages

Chain-link mesh is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. He possesses big amount advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

• affordable cost. Chain-link mesh is a budget option for building a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

A high-quality mesh will serve you for decades.

• long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is able to maintain its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust, with proper use it does not deform.
• the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence with or without welding. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

• ease of care for the material;
• mesh does not interfere natural circulation air, does not obscure the territory.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, pet enclosures, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh is of three types:

1. Not galvanized.
2. Galvanized.
3. Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the action of moisture the surface rusts very quickly.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, it does not rust, which is really very valuable.

galvanized wire mesh

Plasticized material - modern version but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized mesh has different color scheme. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally fit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable chain-link fence is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

1. With the use of a welding machine.
2. Without welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without the use of welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all necessary tools and materials. In the process of work you will need:

• chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
• support poles (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
• special fastening hooks;
• sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
• shovel;
• building level;
• mounting tape;
• hammer or drill;
• bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a tension one. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For correct execution work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Scheme: installing a chain-link fence

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, you will appreciate its merits not only from personal experience, but you will also see it by the increased amount of crop received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo

How to protect your summer cottage? Fence from steel mesh- This is an economical option that is considered effective, fairly simple to install. It does not cast shadows, is well ventilated, forms a transparent wall that does not interfere with plant growth. But the most attractive thing is that the simple technology of work allows you to install a chain-link fence with your own hands.

1. What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?
2. An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence
3. Tips from "experienced"

What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?

However, there are options here too: just stretch the cellular fabric between the pillars or fix it according to the design made from the corner? The first method is simpler, although it does not look so impressive from an aesthetic point of view. Alternatively, such a fence can be equipped on the boundary with a neighboring site.

What to use for the device supports?

The cost of the fence, its durability is affected by the material from which the pillars are made. It can be a light, inexpensive tree. If these are bars, then they need to be cleaned of bark, cut into equal lengths (3m), be sure to open them with a waterproofing solution. You can use poles left over from construction in the country as supports. The upper part of the supports, located above the ground, is exposed to atmospheric precipitation, so it will have to be oiled, then painted with oil paint. Wood is a material that is easy to process, but, nevertheless, short-lived.

Important! On unstable soils, in wetlands, all underground part pillars must be concreted. The cement mortar is prepared in proportion: two parts of cement, two parts of crushed stone are taken for one part of sand. When adding each component, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed. Water is poured so much that after thorough mixing the solution is not very liquid. With the tip of a shovel, it is rammed, leveled, shaken. When concreting hole foundations for pillars, the main work is resumed only after 7 days, when the concrete "ripens".

Asbestos-cement or concrete structures. They are strong, stable and durable. Fastening to the supports of rolled cellular material is carried out with a cable or wire through equipped clamps. The weaving option is that the pole is surrounded by a cable threaded into the cells. One thing is bad: in the event of a vandal capture of the net, it is enough to “bite” the cable, and it can be easily removed.

Metal poles-supports in this regard are more reliable. Plus, they last for decades. Pipes 60 - 120 mm in diameter with a metal thickness of at least 2 mm are used. Grid holders are welded on them in the upper part - metal hooks. Then the whole structure is painted with waterproof paint.

Carefully evaluate the roll

When choosing a chain-link mesh, you need to pay attention to the general appearance of the roll. It should not be crumpled, deformed. Wire braided material - smooth, whole. It is very important that the edge part does not look like a curve: all the outer corners of the cells must be of the same height, elongated “along the string”. From this envy aesthetic appearance, lack of sagging.

The grid is used for fences steel, galvanized. Sold in rolls of 10-20 m long. The size of the cells, their thickness, as well as the width of the mesh fabric also varies. Most in demand roll material with a width of one and a half meters. If you want to make the fence higher, the mesh fabric rises by the upper edge, the gap formed at the bottom is laid with the available materials at hand.

Exclusivity, a special flavor to a chain-link fence with your own hands in the decor can be given by a colored polyester coating that is resistant to damage and fading, as well as the shape and size of the cells. Usually, these are rhombic or square honeycombs sized 30x30, 45x45, 50x50mm. Although canvases can be made to order with a different geometry.

An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence

The most easy installation do-it-yourself fence from a chain-link mesh without welding comes down to the following.

• Installation begins with driving corner posts along the border of the site, because. they will be subjected to the greatest uneven load. Since the entire construction of the fence is quite light, the foundation is not needed for it. The pillars are planted in the ground to a depth of about 1 m. If it is a metal pipe or profile, then the lower part, which will be in the ground, is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
• Half of the volume of land is selected with a drill. At the final depth, the pillars are driven in with a sledgehammer. Before starting the installation, the vertical is checked with a water level. In case of deviation from it, the fence can “lead”. The resulting void between the pillar and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble, after which it is carefully compacted. This is done to make the structure stronger.
• So that the mesh web does not deviate from the vertical plane, a cord is stretched between the corner supports. This will be a line, a kind of landmark on which you need to drill the rest of the holes. The total length of the fence is measured with a tape measure. The resulting value is divided into equal sections. Every 2.5 m, holes are dug or drilled for supports. The selected stride length must be respected as at a greater distance, the windage of the mesh becomes unacceptable: under the force of the wind, the mesh material will stretch, and over time it will simply sag.
• By the way, in some cases, in addition to concreting, for reliable fixation, the supports in the drilled holes are covered from all sides with rubble stone or savage. This layer is carefully compacted, after which a small layer of soil is laid on top. The resulting "pillow" must be well compacted again. Finally, top, fit finishing layer from rubble stone.
• The design feature of the poles are the hooks at the top. Welded to the profile, they bend well. Before installing the grid, they need to be straightened. The rolled canvas itself must be hung correctly. For this, the upper edge of the roll is determined: the wire on it is longer. In addition, the extreme spiral is marked. "Nippers" bite off the central and extreme screeds. A roll of chain-link mesh (galvanized, steel, etc.) is rolled out from the extreme edge “on itself”. It should turn out to be a solid canvas when unfolded.
• Grasping the edge, holding the material, gradually stretch it. In this form, the grid will not get tangled, and the edges will cling to the cells. Better if it is galvanized. In the case of a metal fence, its surface will rust from moisture in a couple of days after installation. Galvanization is durable. In any case, it will last a quarter of a century on the fence.

• For the cells of the upper row, the mesh is suspended on pre-bent hooks. At the same time, at the joints of two panels, it is left unstretched. Between themselves, the edges of the two rolls are intertwined with a zigzag wire. It is considered extreme in the roll web, therefore it is unscrewed from it. Then, using the weaving method, attaching both pieces to the ends, they are intertwined with this piece. It turns out a seamless solid fence.
• Now the finally solid fence is pulled tight so that it does not sag over time. Hooks are bent with a hammer, fixing the specified mesh tension. Do not forget about the top of the canvas. Unformed tendrils of the wire from which the cells are made stick out on it. The ends sticking out in different directions are twisted together, wrapped downwards, in order to avoid injuries during the work.
• A chain-link fence with a cable can be considered as an option in which a thin (ᴓ 6mm) cable or wire is passed into the even upper row of cells. Tension fasteners are fixed in the corner posts. It is tensioned with bolts and does not allow the structural material to sag. To do this, holes are pre-drilled on the pillars closer to the outer edge, as well as in the middle. They should be located at a height equal to the location of the penultimate row of cells, be slightly larger in diameter than the cross section of the wire (cable) or rod used for tension. In supports for installed mesh sections, such wire holes are not needed.
• Protruding "whiskers" are twisted around the wire. It is also needed to eliminate the hanging of the top of the mesh, its sagging. To do this, you need to apply a certain tension force. To create it, use a special device for a chain-link fence from a mesh with a cable. A thick bar is pulled through the cells of the extreme row. A part of the mesh is wound on it with a roll until it stops. All wound material is fixed with wire. A cable is attached to the rod. I use a long bar as a lever, tighten the mesh to full tension. This position is fixed on the supports with bolts or other hardware.

Important! The fence made of galvanized stainless material does not need further finishing. It can be used immediately after installation. If the wire in the mesh is metal, its subsequent coloring is required. The work is done only with a brush: from a spray gun a lot of paint is uneconomically spent in space, and when working with a roller, it is impossible to completely paint over the weaves.

• When erecting a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you do not need to mount the structural material with an overlap on the ground, leaving air space between it and the ground. This, on the one hand, will remove the additional load on the grid; on the other hand, by eliminating contact with the ground, the metal sheet will not be subjected to corrosive destruction in this way.
• The hooks on the poles are nailed to a flattened appearance with a hammer. The rolled wire passing through the upper, lower row of cells is fixed to the posts by welding. On the corner supports, where you need to make a bypass of the canvas, you get a loose tension, no matter how carefully you try to do it. Therefore, in this place a connecting seam is made from two pieces of mesh.
• Do-it-yourself chain-link fence without welding looks less preferable than a fence made of welded frame sections with an area of ​​1.5x2.5 m from a steel corner. The mesh design is welded to them by electric welding. It will provide such a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands decor to any exterior. Climbing plants planted next to it, flowers, located on the fence and clinging to it with shoots, will create a natural, colorful, fragrant, living carpet.

The mesh construction is not only a beautiful, simple even in its own design, an original "living" hedge. A chain-link fence is an example of how, having shown ingenuity and making an effort, it is possible to economically build an original fence that is in no way inferior in its purpose to more fundamental and expensive structures.

German construction worker Karl Rabitz, patenting his plaster mesh, and I didn’t guess how many applications she would find later. One of the most common is a fence. Chain-link mesh, or just a chain-link, is inexpensive, building a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands is easy, and it performance are quite high. By the way, "chain-link" has become a household word, and this word must be handled according to all the rules of the Russian language. Chain-link lovers fence fences and curious, from improvised material, but quite reliable, and / or not devoid of artistic merit:

Curious mesh fences

You can make a fence from a chain-link without experience with 1-2 unskilled assistants around a plot of 20 acres over the weekend, not counting the gate with a gate, if you know the features of this material and how to work with it. Their description is one of the purposes of this article. The second is to talk about some little-known useful qualities of chain-link fences, which we will finish quickly in order to come to grips with the technique.

Note: further, when describing the types of chain-link fences, we will, as far as possible, suggest how to make one or another without welding, if in this case this is even possible. Country electrical wiring most often simply cannot withstand the operating current of the welding machine, and it is difficult and expensive to rent and transport a motor-generator.

What is a chain link fence good for?

Frost on the grid Rabitsa

First of all - excellent visibility, high light transmission and breathability. It is impossible to fence off small areas with blind fences, they shade plants and disrupt the circulation of surface air layers, which aggravates the effect of frosts, dry winds, etc. A fence made of welded mesh also transmits both light and air, but its canvas is not voluminous. Flattened spirals, from which the Rabitz mesh is wound, break the dense air flow into small whirlwinds, which causes the wind energy to drop and its effect on buildings and plantings is reduced. The difference in aerodynamics is clearly visible in ice (see the figure on the right): the stronger the ice storm rushes, the less the netting passes it. In general, over long periods of time (from 10 years), plots fenced with chain-links suffer less from the vagaries of the elements than those surrounded by some other fence.

The three-dimensional structure of the chain-link also gives it high elasticity when stretched. This is important, first of all, for playgrounds: even if a small troublemaker hits the fence instead of the ball, there will be no serious injuries. A properly built chain-link fence will withstand a frontal collision passenger car at speeds up to 40-50 km / h without fatal consequences for the driver, passengers, car and himself.

Finally, the high elasticity of the stretched chain-link, combined with its three-dimensional structure, determines the poor surmountability of a correctly made fence from it: the stretched chain-link bends and springs as a single surface. This is essential not so much against intruders as when keeping livestock and other domestic animals. It is equally difficult for a cat and a bull to jump over a chain-link fence, break through it or get entangled in it. Unwanted wild newcomers to the household yard - too.

Types of chain-link fences

Installation of a chain-link fence is possible at least 5 different ways, giving significantly different operational qualities of the fence:

• Stretch along the string;
• Hinged along the veins;
• Mounted on the slopes;
• Sectional teams;
• Sectional whole.

Tension along a string (cable or wire, item 1 in the figure) a chain-link fence is the most permeable, resilient and windproof. Material consumption is minimal. Disadvantages - laboriousness, tk. pillars must certainly be completely concreted (see below), as well as obligatory braces for corner, gate and, possibly, intermediate pillars. For installation, special equipment is required, some of which, however, can be replaced with devices from improvised means.

Types of chain-link fences

In a fence hinged along the veins, a chain-link fabric is hung instead of an elastic string on rigid rods (pos. 2) or a small professional pipe, which is a vein. It is easiest to build a chain-link fence on veins, which is why they most often make them for themselves. The permeability and, so to speak, "wind-softening" properties of the chain-link fence on the veins are almost the same as those of the tension along the string. However, if a truck that brought something accidentally catches it, it will most likely have to be changed at least 2 spans completely. On dense, well-bearing soils, pillars under a fence hinged along the veins can be installed in simplified ways.

A fence made of a chain-link hung on a slug (boards, a steel profile or a round plastic pipe, a corner), pos. 3, is more material and labor intensive than the hinged one along the veins, but you can put it on any more or less bearing soil (more than 0.5 kg / sq. cm, if the soil is not flooded) by simply hammering or digging the pillars, because . supports with slegs form a single sufficiently strong and rigid structure. A chain-link fence on wooden poles is no less durable than on steel ones. In addition, it can be built on a slope without any tricks, see fig.:

Sloped mesh fence

The fact is that the chain-link keeps its shape when skewed up to 6 degrees, which gives a slope of 1:10, i.e. 1 m by 10 m. However mechanical properties at the same time, the chain-links fall catastrophically, but in the fence along the slopes this is not essential, because. almost all operational loads are assumed by supports with rigid strapping.

A prefabricated sectional fence made of chain-link (pos. 4) is expensive, labor-intensive and, by the way, less durable (it is easier to demolish or cut the frame as a whole than to break through a solid mesh panel), and it is easier to overcome. Its only advantage is a more or less decent appearance and lower dynamic loads on the mesh, which is especially important for colored plasticized netting, see below. Solid sectional chain-link fences (pos. 5) are durable, difficult to overcome, visually visible, but expensive, labor-intensive and of little repair. Children's, sports and industrial sites are most often fenced with such, therefore, solid sectional fences are not considered further.

Note: if you are going to make a sectional mesh fence, then the first thing to consider is the welded flat mesh option. The chain-link in this design has no advantages over it, but the welded mesh is cheaper and easier to install.

Grid

Installation of a chain-link fence is not possible from any of its types, of which there are dozens, if not hundreds, in the production and sale. The “black” chain-link made of uncoated structural steel (item 1 in the figure) is a plaster and reinforcing mesh, not intended for outdoor use: it quickly rusts, does not hold paint well, is rather fragile and begins to tear from the winds even sooner than it rusts.

Types of mesh Rabitsa

For fences, most often there is a galvanized chain-link made of wire of increased plasticity (pos. 2), the so-called. gray. It costs approx. 7-12% more expensive than black. A cheerful fence can be made from a plasticized chain-link (coated with colored PVC, item 3), but only sectional. The solid panel of their colored netting sags in the wind, the plastic at the joints is rubbed over the winter, and the mesh rusts. Very fast, because in this case, the metal is eaten by capillary moisture. There is a plasticized chain-link somewhere 1.5 times more expensive than gray.

Note: in wide sale there is also a stainless steel chain-link steel wire, pos. 4. A marvelous fence dream, but, like all marvelous dreams, it is very expensive in real life.

Mesh and wire

Fences are usually made from a vertical chain-link with a mesh of 50-60 mm, from wire with a diameter of 1.6-2.2 mm, pos. 5. To fence a household yard with a bird, you need a more expensive mesh with a mesh no larger than 30 mm, otherwise the ducklings will scatter, and it will not be difficult for ferrets and weasels to get into the house. The lower gap of the fence (see below) in this case is covered with boards or slate.

A mesh of increased strength made of wire up to 4-5 mm thick (pos. 6) is needed for the fence of a corral or pasture for cattle. It is difficult to work with it, especially splicing panels (see below), because. reinforced chain-link is heavy and tough.

A very strong and elastic variety of chain-link with a small, up to 20 mm, strongly flattened mesh, the so-called. shell mesh (pos. 7, remember the old beds?). But it is much more expensive than an ordinary fence netting, and working with it is even more difficult. And finally, a chain-link of a horizontal layer, pos. 8: it is impossible to make the junction of her canvases in the fence invisible.

Splicing and tension

The chain-link mesh is produced with a width of 1.1 m in rolls of 10 m. For fences, 10-meter rolls with a width of 1.5-3 m are usually purchased. It is impossible to turn large rolls without lifting mechanisms. That is, the fence will need several rolls, the panels of which (if the fence is not sectional) must be spliced ​​into one sheet.

It is not necessary to splice the netting panels into a web with wire (pos. 1 in the figure) - it is ugly and fragile. To splice the netting sheets, one spiral (one twist) is carefully unscrewed from the edge of one of them and, screwing it into 2 extreme layers of the sheets, they are spliced, pos. 2.

Splicing and tensioning the chain-link mesh

Also, when installing a chain-link fence, the mesh must be stretched. Especially - if the fence is stretched along the string, then the mesh should be pulled tight. In the methods for this, it is recommended to use a screw lanyard (pos. 3) or hoists, but with improvised means and with 2 assistants you can do it easier, pos. 4:

• Sections of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm or more are tucked into the extreme layers, and bridles from a textile or synthetic cable with a thickness of 12 mm or more are knitted to their ends.
• On the one hand, the bridle is carried along the hollow on the support 4a, thrown onto a firmly driven stake-"boy" with an emphasis-lying between it and the extreme post, and a cable gate 4b is made until it is tightly tightened.
• On the other hand, a stake (vaga) 4v with another bridle thrown over it is placed in the hole with an emphasis.
• One worker holds the wag vertically, holding the bridle on it so that it does not slip, and the other wraps the collar as tight as possible.
• The worker on the collar holds it, and the worker on the vaga pulls it towards him. The mesh will be taut with a force of approx. equal to the force of hoists from 4 blocks.
• Workers keep the mesh taut, and the master fastens it.

Mesh attachment

The mesh is attached to the extreme pillars by introducing the same armatures into the layers closest to the pillars from the inside. Then the rods in 4-5 places are attracted to the poles with clamps and, if necessary, the rods (not the mesh!) Are additionally attached to the poles by welding. The mesh is attached to the intermediate posts in the same way and, thus, it turns out to be tightly stretched. Depending on the type of fence, the method of fixing the mesh may be different, see below.

pillars

Chain-link fence posts can be wooden, steel from a round or shaped pipe, or round from an asbestos-cement pipe; in the latter case, reinforcement and concreting are required, as for piles. Ready-made poles for mesh fences with hooks (for tension and hinged fences) or mounting paws (for sectional ones) are produced. It is necessary to deepen the pillars into the ground by at least 80 cm, and preferably by 120 cm and deeper. Here the role is no longer played by the depth of freezing and frost heaving of the soil, but by the lateral operational loads on the pole. Minimum dimensions the cross section of the posts for the fence from the chain-link are as follows:

• Pine or spruce for a fence with a panel on a string - 100x100 mm.
• The same, oak or larch - 80x80 mm.
• Steel from a professional pipe with a wall of 3 mm - 60x60 mm for a fence with a panel along a string or sectional and 40x40 mm for others.
• Steel from a round pipe with a wall of 2.5 mm - dia. 80 and 60 mm resp.
• Asbestos-cement - with a diameter of 120 mm for a fence with a panel along the string and from 100 mm for a hinged panel.

Note: sectional chain-link fences on wooden and asbestos-cement poles cannot be made. It is undesirable to make fences with a hinged panel on wooden poles, because. pillars in such structures are not prestressed. Asbestos-cement fence posts are not repairable.

Strengthening the pillars in the ground is possible in the following ways (see Fig.):

Strengthening the fence posts from the chain-link in the ground

1. Driving or digging in - on dense, not very heaving, not flooded soils: dry loams and clays, gravelly and cartilaginous soils;
2. With partial concreting - in areas with a small depth of freezing on soils with bearing capacity from 1.7 kg/sq. see Practically - on any stable soil;
3. Butovanie - recommended for wooden poles on soils as in the previous. n. A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 20-30 cm is poured under the pillar, the rubble is poured in layers, 15-20 cm each, tamped and poured with sand. Properly prepared wooden poles (see below) in such nests stand for 50-70 years or more;
4. Full concreting - in all other cases. Under the post - anti-flood pillow, as in the previous. P; the solution from M150 is poured in layers, 10-15 cm each. The next layer is poured as soon as before. will start to catch on. The column is fixed with temporary braces for the time of concrete gain of 50% strength (3-7 days).

How to prepare wooden poles?

A chain-link fence on wooden poles can be just as durable and reliable as a steel one, if properly prepared. The maintainability of the fence on wooden poles is higher, because. repairing or replacing a broken wooden pole is easier than a bent steel pole. Preparation of wooden poles for the fence is as follows:

• Bars-blanks are impregnated with engine oil waste or any oil-based biocide-water repellent (water-repellent composition).
• Underground + approx. 50 cm above ground are impregnated twice with bituminous mastic.
• Underground + approx. 30 cm above ground are wrapped with roofing material, pulling the wrapper with a thin soft wire. Do not fasten with nails or screws!
• The upper end of the installed column is painted over with thick oil paint (red lead, ocher, whitewash), regardless of whether the column will be finished somehow else.

How to put up fences?

The gap between the lower edge of the mesh and the ground in any chain-link fence is needed from 15-20 cm. Otherwise, an inconvenience will form there, where pests and weeds will breed and breed. So that the cattle, trying to reach the fresh meat, do not injure their muzzles on the net, and the bird does not run away, the lower gap is covered with boards or slate so that they can be removed if necessary.

By the strings

Step-by-step instructions on how to install the most common chain-link fence on 3 strings are given in fig. A 3-string fence is very elastic as a whole, therefore, in this case, the pits for the poles are small - frost heaving can only spoil such a fence on strongly and excessively. heaving soils. In this case, they keep each other from skewing the pillars with the help of tightly stretched strings. The minimum allowable diameters of steel wire and cable strings are 4 and 3 mm respectively, but usually 4 mm cable is taken for the strings, and most often 6 mm wire rod. You can still pull it by hand and, of course, it is stronger. This fence can be installed without welding. Wire holders of the 1st type are hooks on poles driven with a hammer; Type 2 - self-tapping screws for metal with hooks.

Installation of a fence from a grid Chain-link with a cloth on strings

Features of installing chain-link fences with linen along the strings

If the fence is with corners, then on the corner posts you need 2 struts at 90 degrees. And if the length of the fence from corner to corner exceeds 10-12 m, then on weak soils (sandy loam, sand, black soil, gray and peaty soils), struts of intermediate pillars, pos. 1 next. rice. Gate posts can in any case be without braces if the gate opening is arched or with a crossbar. Also, without struts of intermediate poles, a chain-link fence on strings with wooden poles can be made, pos. 2.

The mesh is applied to the strings after they are stretched. It is enough to grab the net to the string with a “mustache” (pos. 3), because the string plays along with the grid. If the pillars are round, then the chain-link panel can be circled without breaks (except for gates and gates) around the entire perimeter, pos 4. Also, due to the greater bending strength of round pipes, in this case, you can not concrete the jibs, but spread them between the pillars.

Note: all chain-link fences along the strings can be made without welding.

On the veins

A chain-link fence on wire rod strings is already a transitional option for a fence with a hinged panel. In "real" chain-link fences, the upper and lower strings are replaced with rigid reinforcing bars - veins inserted into the mesh cells. The veins are introduced into the rows of cells in advance as the roll unfolds. The upper and lower veins are attached to the poles in the same way as vertical ones: by throwing them into hooks, clamps, welding. 2 options for installing chain-link fences with a hinged panel are shown in the video:

Installation of chain-link fences (video)

And here we will limit ourselves to what should not be done when building such a fence.

Errors when making fences from a chain-link mesh on veins

Firstly, a hard rod does not play with the mesh in the wind, so it is impossible to introduce veins into the outer rows of cells (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), the cells will soon disperse. However, inserting veins into rows of cells 2-3 from the edge (pos. 2) is also impossible, now for safety reasons. When trying to climb over the fence, the chain-link does not bend much on the veins and it seems to an inexperienced thief or just a half-wit that it is possible to “take” such a fence. But then he finds himself hanging on a wire stuck in his stomach, and the owner has to answer for other people's stupidity and evil up to prison. Therefore, the veins of the hinged fence must be entered into 4-6 horizontal rows of chain-link cells from the edge. Then it simply cannot be climbed over; in extreme cases, an absolutely unreasonable stubborn man will strip his hands, but will not tear his own guts.

Note: strong, safer and rather elegant chain-link fences are obtained if you take a thin professional pipe on a vein; drawings of the span of such a fence, see fig. below. This is a transitional type to a fence with a canvas on the sleds.

Drawings of a chain-link fence on veins from a professional pipe

On the slopes

The device of a chain-link fence on wooden slings is shown in the next fig; this fence can also be assembled without welding. Poles do not have to be taken with paws; they can be attached to them with self-tapping screws for wood, if the poles are wooden, or for metal, if the poles are steel. For a fence on a slope, this option is even preferable.

The device of the fence from the chain-link on wooden sleds

But what should not be simplified in the fence from the chain-link fence is the method of attaching the net. Here we need the same reinforcing bars, nailed to the rails with U-shaped brackets or bent nails. If, however, the mesh is fixed as shown on the right in the figure, or simply with nails / self-tapping screws, then within a year it will sag, no matter how it was initially stretched.

Sectional

A sectional fence made of a chain-link can look quite attractive if the section frames are welded from a professional pipe, and the mesh is grabbed directly to them by spot welding; a drawing of a section of such a fence, see the left in fig. below. Collect sections recumbent:

1. Frames of height less than the grid stretched in width are brewed.
2. Lay the frame flat.
3. A piece of mesh of length greater than the span is placed on the frame and stretched with plug-in veins, as described above.
4. They seize each cell falling on the frame by spot welding.
5. Cut off excess mesh.

Schemes of sectional fences from the chain-link

As you can see, it requires either special equipment, or at least 4 strong assistants, and another apparatus spot welding, and even part of the grid goes to waste. Therefore, do-it-yourself sectional fences from a chain-link are most often made in frames from a corner of 30x30x4 or 40x40x5 (on the right in the figure):

• Roll out the mesh to the length of the span and stretch it up and down as far as possible with your hands. It is better to do this on the ground, fixing the veins with pegs. Insert veins into the extreme rows of cells.
• Measure the distance between the outer edges of the veins. The distances between the shelves of the corners H facing each other must be equal to them.
• Mounting hooks made of 6 mm wire rod are welded into the corners, not reaching the shelves of the corners facing each other by 1-1.5 cm.
• When installing the fence, the upper vein is first thrown onto the hooks (the mustache of the mesh must be bent).
• Then, with 4 mounts (for which an assistant is needed), the lower vein is brought onto the hooks.
• The side veins are put in place in the same way.

Relief and swamp

Instead of a conclusion, we suggest watching another video on how to install chain-link fences on slopes, bumps and marshy ground:

Installing a chain-link fence on problem surfaces (video)

Today, with all the variety of fences, few types of construction could replace a hand-made chain-link fence.

Benefits of a chain link fence

1. Very quick and easy to install with your own hands;
2. Low cost;
3. Ease of construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
4. Lets light through, will not create conflict situations with neighbors due to the shadow created;
5. Strict and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence can be installed in two ways:

1. Normal, as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is much cheaper and easier. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to pursue an impeccable appearance, but you just need to quickly and cheaply install a fence.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when finished sections of the fence are produced, in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will cost much more, because you will have to acquire metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but at the same time the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on top of the fence, something to dry, etc.)

materials

For the installation of such a fence, we need the following materials:

1. Metal poles 50x50x2x3000 mm;
2. Chain-link mesh (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
3. Fasteners (nails, galvanized bolts);
4. Concrete M200.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Territory marking.

We begin work by driving in pegs in the corners of the site and pulling the laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length of the required chain-link mesh, you also need to take into account + 5-7% of the additional length "in reserve". Next, we mark the places of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Pillar installation.

In the event that after the construction of the house there is a sufficient amount of wooden beams or other material left that you can use as future supporting fence posts; when the price of a "wood" in your region is several times cheaper than a metal profile, or you just need a temporary fence - then you should use wooden supports. The surface of the wooden beam must be cleaned of bark, and it is also desirable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic that will protect the material from decay and pests. The poles should be cut based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the base to be dug in (the pit should be 100-150 mm larger than the depth of freezing of the soil, therefore, if you are counting on a two-meter fence, and the depth of freezing of the soil is 800 mm, then you should prepare poles with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not last long, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence - take care of buying metal poles. The installation of such supports requires concreting the base. The depth of the concreted pit should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you planned to put up a fence 2 m high, the depth of the pit should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the freezing depth and heaving of the soil).

III. Chain-link mesh stretch.

It is most convenient to nail the mesh to the wooden base of the fence.

Do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fence

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

For mounting sectional fence from the chain-link mesh we need the following materials:

1. Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
2. Grid chain-link galvanized or plasticized;
3. Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
4. Metal rod and strip for welding
5. Concrete M200

The marking and installation of the posts of the sectional fencing from the chain-link is no different from its simpler counterpart, but you will have to sweat with the welding of the frames. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to contact a professional.

When planning sections, do not forget that they need to be made 100-200 mm shorter than the distance between the fence supports and 100-150 mm above ground level.

Having marked and cut the mesh according to the dimensions of the welded rectangle, we evenly stretch it along the frame and, having applied metal rods on top, we weld everything into an integral structure.

Finished sections are attached to the poles in strips by welding.

At the final stage, all metal elements and welded sections of the sectional fencing are recommended to be painted with a primer.

Photo of chain-link fences

See photos of chain-link fences made by hand

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence installation video

Watch the video on how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands:

Installation of a chain-link fence.

For many years, owners of private houses, summer residents, builders and manufacturers have been using woven mesh as a material for installing fences. This is easily explained by its availability, low cost and ease of installation. With a minimum set of tools, any owner of the site can install a chain-link fence with their own hands.

As a minimum possible set, you must purchase:

• grid;
• material for bearing supports;
• metal bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
• knitting wire;
• cement, gravel, sand.

Depending on the type of fence construction chosen, other materials may be required. So, for the manufacture of a sectional fence, you will need a corner of 15x15 or 20x20 mm and a metal strip of 20-40 mm. Welding work involves the presence of electrodes.

Mesh selection

A chain-link mesh is a transparent cellular fabric woven from wire spirals of a special shape. The size of the cells can be in the range from 20 to 100 mm. Web width - from 1000 to 2000 mm. The material is delivered rolled up in rolls of 8-16 meters.

Depending on wire material and availability protective coating, on the building materials market you can buy 4 types of chain-link mesh:

• from a simple steel wire without a sheeting, "black";
• galvanized;
• stainless steel;
• with a protective polymer coating.

"Black" designed for reinforcement during plastering and concrete work. It is not recommended to use it for fencing due to fragility as a result of strong susceptibility to corrosion.

Galvanized sheet is an the most common material for mounting a chain-link fence due to affordable cost and durability. Such a network, even in the most adverse conditions operation will last at least 15 years.

Fence stainless wire will be practically eternal. However, the main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. In addition, it must be taken into account that when using a stainless mesh, it will be necessary to install poles from appropriate materials and, most likely, to abandon welding joints. This will increase the final cost of the fence and complicate installation.

chain link with polymer protective coating Produced in a wide range of colors, looks beautiful, durable. The main problem is that at the intersections of individual wires, the polymer coating wears down to the metal over time and an active corrosion process begins.

To install fences around the site, weaving with a wire thickness of 3-4 mm, a mesh size of 30-50 mm and a web width of 1200-1500 mm is most often used.

Such sizes of the chain-link mesh for the fence will ensure the achievement of the most optimal price option. Cells less than 30 mm are used in the construction of fences for birds and small domestic animals, more than 50 mm are used mainly in industrial facilities, airports, agricultural lands and other vast areas.

The choice of material for the pillars

There are several options from various materials. Among the most common are supports from:

• wood;
• metal;
• concrete.

wooden poles- the cheapest, simplest, but very short-lived solution. In order to increase the service life of wooden poles, their lower part must be treated with a special impregnation and covered with a layer of bituminous mastic. The rest of the surface must be impregnated with drying oil and painted.

metal racks can be made of steel pipes of square, rectangular or round cross-section, as well as from an equal-shelf angle. Other types of shaped metal products are more expensive, their use will no longer be economically justified.

Concrete supports they are durable and reliable, but they make it difficult to fix the grid, and it’s quite difficult to put such poles.

The best and most common option today is the installation of metal poles from a rectangular profile pipe with a section of 25x40 mm with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. They perfectly hold a light, wind-permeable fence and, with a protective coating against corrosion, can last for decades.

Calculation of the amount of materials

Determining the amount of materials needed for the construction of a chain-link fence should begin with drawing a future fence scheme on the plan of the fenced area. The recommended distance between the posts is 2.5-3.5 meters.

Reducing the pitch will increase the number of poles and increase costs. Large distances between the supports will not allow for high-quality mesh tension and will greatly complicate the installation process.

On the diagram drawn, mark all the installation sites of the pillars and, based on this, determine their total number. Multiplying the number of supports by their height, taking into account the underground part, you get overall length pipes for use as poles.

The length of the chain-link mesh will be equal to the length of the fence on the plan. The connection of individual sheets during installation is not carried out with an overlap, but by inserting connecting twisted wires, which will be discussed below.

An exception is the option of installing a sectional fence. In this case, the total mesh length can be reduced by 5-7%.

The calculation of the amount of cement, sand and crushed stone should be performed depending on the total number of pillars and the consumption of concrete mix for concreting one pillar. The usual depth of the pits is 400-500 mm, the average diameter is 300-350 mm. Accordingly, it turns out that the installation of one pillar will require 0.05 m 3 of concrete. The ratio of cement, sand and gravel is defined as 1:3:4. Therefore, it is possible to determine the amount of building materials for concreting pillars.

When installing a chain-link fence on heaving and weakly stable soils, the posts should be deepened by at least 800 mm. This will double the consumption of building materials and add 400 mm to the height of all pillars.

Fence Installation Procedure

Like most construction works, the installation of a fence is carried out in several successive stages:

Territory preparation and marking

Before you pull the chain-link mesh on the fence, you should deal with clearing the strip along which it will be mounted. In addition, at the preparatory stage, the necessary materials and tools are assembled.

To mark the places for the installation of poles on each straight segment of the fence, drive in pegs at the mounting points of the two extreme supports. After that, stretch the cord between them and, measuring the required distance, mark with pegs the installation sites of the remaining pillars.

Digging holes, installing and concreting pillars

Digging holes for the installation of poles can be done using a conventional bayonet shovel, but it is much more convenient to use a special hole drill. It can be manual or mechanically driven. This will be especially true with a large number of installed pillars.

The diameter of the hole must be at least the size of the pipe section with the addition of 100-150 mm in each direction. The depth of the dug pits is 400-500 mm for ordinary stable soils or 800-1000 mm for heaving, highly moistened and other unstable soils.

The order of installation of the pillars is similar to the markup. On each straight section of the fence, two extreme supports are first installed. After the concrete has hardened, you need to stretch the cord between them and install all the other pillars along it, be sure to check the vertical with the building level. Concrete mixture for pouring pits with installed supports is prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4.

General procedure for installing a fence.

Mesh installation

As mentioned above, the design of the chain-link fence can be different. Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, usually associated with the level of reliability of the fence and ease of installation.

Tension method

The easiest way involves fixing the mesh on the installed supports without using additional elements and fasteners. To do this, roll the mesh on the ground to a distance of about one and a half spans between the posts. Bend the ends of the wire spirals with pliers if this has not been done by the fabric manufacturer. This will prevent possible injuries during work and improve the appearance of the fence.

The grid laid out on the ground must be lifted and fixed on poles with wire or clamps. You will need an assistant or two to complete the job. It is almost impossible to ensure mesh tension by working alone.

Strengthening the structure with lags

For more reliable fastening of the mesh and prevention of possible sagging over time, horizontal logs can be welded to the installed racks from a thin profile pipe or even a metal bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

In the case of using a bar, it can be passed through the cells of the grid before welding, which then does not need to be tied. If a profile pipe is used, then the fence is fixed using plastic self-clamping clamps.

The presence of a log will allow not only to strengthen the structure, but also to place various decorations on the surface of the grid for the final design of the fence. In addition, the lags will pull the entire system into a single whole, i.e. you do not need to install special slopes for the stability of the corner posts.

Fence from sections

This design is a fence in which between installed poles rectangular sections are fixed, welded from a corner, inside of which a chain-link mesh is stretched.

Making it is somewhat more difficult, but it has whole line advantages over simple tension systems. To perform the installation of a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh:

1. on a flat hard surface, draw a rectangle corresponding to the configuration of the section;
2. put a corner on the line and weld the frame;
3. inside the shelves of the corner with a pitch of 150-200 mm, weld small pins of wire or rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
4. lay out the mesh inside the section, and pass its edges through the pins;
5. bend the pins with a hammer, fixing the position of the grid;
6. sections are fixed on supports by welding pieces of steel strip to the pole and frame.

After installation, all unpainted surfaces must be covered with a layer of paint.

Fence decoration options

A mesh fence can serve not only as a fence of the site, but also as its decoration. To do this, use a variety of methods and materials. One of the easiest options is to plant climbing plants along the entire fence line. The growing bindweed will fill the entire area, creating a beautiful hedge.

As special materials for decoration, you can use colored twine or polymer ribbons, using them to create a variety of color patterns. A simple, although not very effective option is to use a camouflage net. But here it should be taken into account that its elements burn out in the sun over time and become covered with a persistent coating of dust.

Related videos

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To put up a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman, you just need to familiarize yourself with and choose the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depends on the quality of the mesh. Metal mesh is available in three versions:

• non-galvanized;
• galvanized;
• plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing, as it begins to rust after the first rain. Usually untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend the service life, the non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. Periodically, such processing must be repeated, which as a result is more expensive than the purchase of a galvanized mesh.

Moisture is not afraid and does not require protective treatment. Her appearance is much more attractive, such a grid looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

plasticized mesh It has a special polymer coating that is resistant to corrosion. The coating is not only durable, but also a variety of colors, so you can choose a grid to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular is the netting of blue and green, less often you can see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Special attention should be paid to the supporting pillars of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are square metal pipes. Manufacturers offer pipes with hooks already welded on, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, used pipes are also used, and the hooks are welded on their own. In addition, hooking is not the only option, it is possible to fix the mesh with steel wire.

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for the manufacture of fences is considered to be a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and mesh sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh has a length of 10 m. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should exceed the width of the grid by 10 cm, and the posts should be dug into the ground by 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, you will need 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long. 3 hooks should be attached to each post - top, bottom and middle . Multiplying the number of supports by 3, they find out how many hooks will be needed. If the fence is sectional, the number of metal corners for the frame is additionally calculated. The height of each section is equal to the width of the grid, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.

Netting prices

Rabitz

Tension fence manufacturing

Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh is faster than sectional fencing, and is cheaper. The installation process includes marking, preparation of pits for poles, installation of poles and fence canvas.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Marking the site

They take wooden pegs and a long string and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the extreme pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in, a twine is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is fixed. Further along the marking line, it is necessary to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for poles

In places marked with pegs, with garden drill make holes with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. At the bottom of each pit they arrange sand cushion 10 cm thick.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing poles

Prepare pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind, weld hooks. The welding points are cleaned, the scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After that, the columns are lowered into the pits, leveled, strengthened with spacers. If all supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the mortar is pierced several times with a steel bar to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

To fix the net on the poles, the roll does not need to be unwound. It is lifted vertically, put on the first support and hooked on hooks. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the earth and the lower edge of the grid. It can also be attached close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled with grass, debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Having fixed the chain-link on the first pillar, they move on to the second. The roll is unwound for 2-2.5 m, put on a support and the mesh is pulled. In order for the tension to be uniform, a steel bar 1.5 m long is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. It is best to perform this process with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other fastens it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched netting sags over time, especially at the top. Reinforcing wire or long steel bars threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the lower edge, stepping back from the ground 20 cm. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, plugs are put on all the support posts.

Production of a sectional fence

The marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out according to the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not be with hooks, but with welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; they are welded from above and below to the racks, stepping back from the edges by 20 cm.

To assemble the sections you will need:

• Rabitz;
• steel corners 40x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• rebar bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the bearing columns and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the grid or the height of the column minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Step 2 Preparing the Mesh

A chain-link roll is laid on the ground, unwound 2-2.5 m and carefully cut with a grinder in width. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the extreme rows of cells on each side. The rods do not need to be connected to each other.

Step 3 Mounting the section

The mesh is laid on the frame and the top reinforcement is welded to inside corner. Next, the mesh is well pulled down and the lower rod is welded, after which the sides are fixed. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to the metal plates. You can also fix the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When mounting the next section, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are in line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. Thus, you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

From a grid are widely used at a protection of seasonal dachas. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools at hand. Subject to the installation technology and the choice of high-quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the grid, as well as study the instructions in detail in order to avoid mistakes.

The mesh is made of black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the life of a non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before it is installed, and then periodically update the protective layer.

Galvanized wire mesh is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but it does not need protective treatment at all. from a galvanized chain-link look neat and attractive.

The plasticized chain-link is becoming more and more popular. This metal mesh is covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has an increased resistance to weathering. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such a chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.

In addition to quality, the chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have dimensions from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The height of the roll is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. The standard length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases material consumption .

Type of chain-link mesh	Wire diameter, mm	Mesh width, mm	Living section of the mesh, %	Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg
	1,20	1000	55,0	4,52
woven mesh with rhombic mesh	1,20	1000	61,0	33,73
woven mesh with rhombic mesh	1,20	1000	69,8	2,78
woven mesh with rhombic mesh	1,40	1000	65,5	3,8
	1,20	1000,1500	75,3 (78,9)	2,20 (1,94)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh	1,40	1000,1500	71,5 (76,2)	3,00 (2,57)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh	1,40	1000,1500	76,3 (77,0)	3,24 (2,74)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh	1,60	1000,1500	73,3 (77,0)	3,24 (2,74)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh	1,80	1000,1500	76,0 (78,9)	3,25 (2,75)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh	1,60	1000,1500	77,5 (80,9)	2,57 (2,17)
	1,4	1000-2000	83,6	1,77
woven mesh for fencing	1,4	1000-2000	87,0	1,33
woven mesh for fencing	1,6	1000-2000	85,7	1,74
woven mesh for fencing	1,6	1000-2000	88,0	1,39
woven mesh for fencing	1,8	1000-2000	87,0	1,76
woven mesh for fencing	1,8	1000-2000	89	1,46
woven mesh for fencing	2,0	1000-2000	87,9	1,81
woven mesh for fencing	1,8	1000-2000	91	1,1
woven mesh for fencing	2,0	1000-2000	90,7	1,36
woven mesh for fencing	2,0	1000-2000	91,7	1,23
woven mesh for fencing	2,5	1000-2000	90,7	1,70
woven mesh for fencing	3,0	1000-2000	89	2,44
woven mesh for fencing	2,5	1000-2000	92	1,41
woven mesh for fencing	3,0	1000-2000	92	1,74
woven mesh for fencing	2,5	1000-2000	94	1,10
woven mesh for fencing	3,0	1000-2000	93	1,53

Netting prices

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences

The protection from a chain-link grid happens sectional and tension. The first option involves the manufacture of rectangular metal sections, inside which the mesh is fixed. For sections use metal corners, profile and round pipes small diameter. Connect them by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal carcass does not allow the mesh to sag.

The tension fence is faster and easier to install; its structure consists of support pillars and the grid itself. The mesh is fastened with steel wire, clamps or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete columns, wooden beams are suitable for pillars.

Installation of fence posts

For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of poles is carried out according to the same technology, only in the first case the poles should be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.

For work you will need:

• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• a skein of thin rope;
• building level;
• manual drill;
• crushed stone and sand;
• solution;
• profile pipes 60x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• primer.

Step 1. Installing the corner posts

The area allotted for the site is cleared of vegetation, if necessary, leveled, the location of the extreme pillars is determined. Experienced builders recommend making corner posts from pipes of a larger cross section than intermediate ones, and digging them deeper. For example, if a 40x40 mm profile pipe is taken for intermediate supports, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Proceed to the installation of pillars:

When the solution hardens a little, you can remove the spacers and start marking under the intermediate racks.

Step 2. Markup

A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the grid will definitely sag. They retreat from the extreme pillar to the desired distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on to the opposite corner. All pegs should be in contact with the stretched rope and be at an equal distance from each other.

Video - A new way to install support poles

Step 3. Installing intermediate supports

In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is covered with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertical, sprinkled with crushed stone and soil and tightly tamped with crowbar. Concrete is poured from above and the surface is leveled.

If it is planned to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be hammered into the ground and not concreted. To do this, holes are drilled to half the required depth, pipes are inserted there and hammered with a sledgehammer. To protect the upper edge of the posts from deformation, take a larger piece of pipe, weld a steel plate on one side and put it on top of the post. After driving the supports, the pits are covered with gravel and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and well rammed.

Step 4. Welding hooks

After about a week, when the concrete has hardened sufficiently, installation can continue. You can fix the grid on the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hook it on hooks. Profile pipes with hooks already welded are on sale, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this, pieces of a steel bar, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - everything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

Step 1 Attaching the Mesh

A chain-link roll is placed near the corner post, unwound a little and the cells are put on hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag. Having fixed the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Stepping back from the junction of the chain-link with a pipe of 10-15 cm, a steel bar is again threaded into the cells. This time you do not need to weld it, it will just help to evenly stretch the mesh. When the mesh is put on hooks, the rod is taken out, the roll is unwound for another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two canvases, use a wire from the extreme vertical row of one of the rolls.

Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage, you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need a wire with a cross section of 6 mm and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. In places where the grid fits to the posts, the wire is welded. Then, in the same way, the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened, and at the end, the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not bend or sag.

Step 3. The final stage

When the fence is installed, you need to complete the finishing touches:

• put plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
• paint the posts
• twist the upper antennae of the chain-link in pairs by 2 turns and bend down.

At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.

Video - Connecting the chain-link in one roll

Installation of a sectional fence

Section manufacturing

Step 2: Preparing the Racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. They take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, stepping back from the edge of 15-20 cm. In the same way, the plates are attached to the remaining supports.

Step 3 Mounting sections

The first section is placed between the pillars, lifted and leveled. Then the sides are welded to the plates and proceed to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top rails of the frame form a single line. After installing all the sections, they clean the welding spots, prime and paint the fence frame.

Read step-by-step instructions on how to do it in our new article.

Video - How to make a chain-link fence