Table for carpentry with your own hands made of wood. Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench - drawings, assembly procedure, materials used

The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can handle various materials, carry out locksmith, electromechanical and assembly work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.

Screwdriver.

Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm

Guides for drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. Slides for drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.

The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is mandatory to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to the wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called the finishing of the workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from environmental influences. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

If the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal chips, oil drops and other materials.
If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Shield plywood

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

Most of the home craftsmen, who are the bulk of subscribers and visitors to our site, have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace to one degree or another by setting up comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who look closely at home needlework, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which becomes a very useful hobby for the family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of homemade and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently do the arrangement of a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.

Workshop Workbench Types

A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized work on the processing of different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. According to the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:

carpentry;
plumbing;
combined.

Based on the design features, the following types are added to them:

universal;
folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with a different list of functions, and a distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you convert your experience of a home craftsman into banknotes outside your apartment or courtyard of your house, you can either pick up a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable, and here three options are possible:

carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of locksmith operations;
locksmith workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
combined workbench.

We note right away that the latter option is not the best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and metalwork types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.

Making a simple DIY garage workbench

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.

Well, if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform metal or woodwork, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench, we will take wooden blocks 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.

It will also go for the top rail of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm on the bottom and 1600 mm on the top. And at the back we use a 40x150x1600 edged board, but we will need all the long blanks later.

If you have a tool for making spiked joints, use it, as we did.

If not, then make them manually or you can join the parts end-to-end using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side racks as shown in the photo below.

After that, you can begin to assemble the entire frame.

The central jumper inside the frame, made of the same 40x80 bar, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, acts as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from old desks that we decided to use in our workbench.

For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated surface made of fiberboard. We screwed a board on metal plates to the leading edge, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for fastening a small metalwork vice with a clamp.

We fixed the working surface to the frame on metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.

Making a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing locksmith work

If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a carpentry workbench and do some design modifications for locksmith operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes up to the present day. It is based on a massive bed on spiked joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often type-setting) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vise-clamps for fixing workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make wooden doors on your own, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and a width of at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he lacked 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.

The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different materials for the table top, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and different vise mechanisms. Now in order:

1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench is installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then its elements can be connected in any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The table top can be made from ready-made glued wooden panels sold in most building supermarkets, or glued from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping fixture. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends with wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.

3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the table top of the workbench is built up with bars of the appropriate sizes. The most popular clamps are:

- carpenter's lead screw with two Czech-made guides Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of approx. 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish carpenter's vice Piher, 150 mm, approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make some kind of their own by using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transmit such efforts as a vise, but it will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its cheapness;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same studs, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 such clamps on one vice.

4. Make holes for the stop pegs in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them parallel to each other over the entire surface of the countertop for confident fastening of overall products.

5. Fasten the workbench tabletop to the base on powerful metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to fasten it to the floor.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench option described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for fixtures for performing plumbing work on such a workbench.

The simplest of these is to make an overlay of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a steel angle frame, kept separate from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered to the table top if necessary.
The main attribute of a locksmith's workbench is a bench vise. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require passing through the workbench top.

Of course, you can fit the holes for the stops under the fasteners of the vice, but with a thick overlay, you can do without it. Also interesting is the option of attaching a bench vise directly to the tabletop of a carpentry workbench using a transition bar-stand and a powerful clamp.

And at the same time, the overlay should not be done on the entire area of the workbench. There are many options, the choice is yours.

Refinement of a locksmith's workbench for carpentry work

Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but we will tell about simple ways to adapt it for carpentry, especially since it is not at all difficult. To fully use your locksmith's workbench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vise and make some simple fixtures.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. From the first figure below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the pins (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device for attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden pad fixed with recessed clamps, with all the set of blank fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by a ladder at the workbench of the appropriate height.

There is nothing to say about the back stop, it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make an overlay planer board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the processed bar) and screwing the beam on the underside to stop on the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns the locksmith workbench into a carpentry workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for fixing the workpiece also allows us to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for a more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.

The way to install the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:

Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

If the blacksmith's main tools are the hammer and the anvil, then for the carpenter there is nothing "kinder" than his workbench. It is he who for people who work with wood can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, an emphasis and a stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you like, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells how to make carpentry tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawing presented in it will help to mount this design even for a beginner.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make a table for yourself. A table like a workbench, in fact. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.) I will call it an assembly table.

In fact, the second name of the workbench is "assembly". But, as you already understood, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see the drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be given as much time as it takes to design the carpentry shop itself.

General description of the carpentry workbench

At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with it, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex structure and surprise others with his skills.

A good massive table is the foundation. And everything else - a vice, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are the invariable attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.

Workbench project

To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters, which are optimal for you.

The first and most important thing to pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, he will have to work for a long time. And you can get tired, standing behind a workbench that is too high or too low, in a jiffy.

The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that it is possible to work standing upright and not slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70 ... 90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered hands. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will realize that working standing at such a table is a pleasure.

The optimal height of the carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.

The cover of the workbench, as well as the work surface, is best made from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use chip materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you take an example from them. This is a bad project - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and the particle board in such conditions will quickly fail.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

5 years ago, I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.

Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (nests) for wedges and combs. With the help of wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be fixed on the surface of the table. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.

The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the dimensions of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the cover are equal - 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.

The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from a wooden beam 120 * 120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not loosen under the influence of brute physical force.

Workbench installation

As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Mounting a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The work surface should also be fixed to the supports using self-tapping screws.

When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. Indeed, later this can lead to a rapid loosening of the workbench and even to a distortion of its supporting frame.

In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is attached to the wall. This type of installation assumes that carpentry work will be performed only when necessary.

CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member

In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench - a laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions of 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening a hand-held milling cutter and a circular saw, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers, and mustache nuts from below, located at the attachment points of a hand planer and a drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it rose vertically and was fixed on the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, there are two triangles from the same plate. She used to work on them.

Such a design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads, and it can be made independently only in exceptional cases.

After you mount the frame and the work surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and start carpentry, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by supplementing the design with specialized equipment.

Given the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter's desktop must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if the necessary tools are always at hand, then this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly position the fixtures, fasteners and power tools.

Rear and front clamps

Rear and side (front) screw clamps are the elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.

The rear clamp is designed to fix lumber during planing. As shown in the diagram, its vise pads move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to securely fix the workpiece with the help of lead screws.

The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of the carpentry table for its self-production. FORUMHOUSE member

The fact of the matter is that in the design of the workbench, the lower shelf is necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). The tool is used a lot, there is nowhere to put it on the street during work. Yes, and in the workshop it is also inconvenient - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...

The basement can be adapted to store power tools. To increase convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves for small parts, fixtures and hand tools here.

Having made a workbench that has all of the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In the process of further work, you may need additional devices. But about what options to apply and what elements to add, each master will be able to guess for himself.

About from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding, in the appropriate section of our forum. Any visitor to FORUMHOUSE can get acquainted with by visiting a special topic created for discussions.

A comfortable workplace, well-equipped, with a solid carpentry workbench, can greatly facilitate the processing of wooden products. This makes it possible to speed up the production process and improve the quality of the final product.

If there is no time for manufacturing, you can purchase a ready-made workbench in the distribution network. In comparison with this option, hand-made desktop production has several advantages:

the ability to get a carpentry workbench of the desired size and functionality;
rational placement of work units and additional equipment;
the purchase of a finished workbench will cost much more.

Design requirements

Depending on the intended work, the carpentry table must have the following characteristics:

The mass and rigidity of the structure must be sufficient to ensure the integrity and stability of the desktop.
The presence of devices for fixing and holding the workpieces (stops, screw clamps,).
Possibility of ergonomic placement of additional equipment.
The dimensions of the future carpentry workbench depend on the mass and dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed on it.
The free space in the workshop should be taken into account. There are projects of compact workbenches that allow you to organize a workplace even on the balcony.
The height of the table should be oriented to the physiological characteristics of the person who will work behind it.
Additional devices should be placed taking into account the main working hand of the owner.
Before starting the design of the workbench, you need to decide what it will be - portable or stationary.

The most suitable workbench dimensions for working with wood:

tabletop length - 2 m;
width - 70–100 cm;
table height from the floor - 80–90 cm.

Types of carpentry workbenches

If there are no serious functional requirements for the workbench, a desk converted to professional needs can be used for small jobs.

mobile workbench

This type of carpentry desktop is relevant in case of a lack of free space in the workshop. Its length is no more than a meter, and its width is 60–80 cm, and its weight usually does not exceed 30 kg. It is convenient to use a portable mobile workbench for processing small workpieces, minor repairs of joinery, woodcarving. Due to its compact dimensions, the mobile machine can be placed in any room: in the garage, in the country house or on the balcony. For even greater compactness, a folding design is often used.

Scheme for the manufacture of a mobile workbench

Stationary workbench

A full-fledged working facility with reference to a specific place, without the possibility of mobile movement during operation. Designed for processing workpieces of any weight and length (within reasonable limits). This is a powerful, reliable device, made taking into account the characteristics of the workspace and the personal preferences of the master. Stationary machines are necessarily equipped with special clamps for fixing workpieces. They provide a place for fixing the tool and installing additional stops.

Composite carpentry workbench

Thanks to the collapsible design on bolted connections, individual modules of the machine can be easily replaced during operation. The main drawback of this device is the complexity in manufacturing (compared to other models), which is largely offset by its variability in the process of use.

Selecting a project and drawing up a diagram

When drawing up a project, the main parameters that need to be taken into account are height, configuration and functional equipment.

Height. For comfortable long-term work, the height of the workbench should not be more than 90 cm. When determining this parameter, first of all, you should take into account your height (if the workbench is made for yourself). And also important is the type of carpentry work that is supposed to be performed most often, and those that require the most convenient conditions for their high-quality performance.

Configuration. If there are no restrictions on the working space, the optimal width is 80 cm, length is 2 m. When configuring the workbench, you need to take into account the presence of shelves, compartments, doors, drawers, their number and size.

Functional equipment. To hold workpieces, the carpenter's workbench must be equipped with two clamps. The front clamp is located on the left, the rear clamp is on the right end of the workbench. This clamp layout is right-handed. If the master has the main working hand on the left, the clamps are mirrored relative to the above option.

It is necessary to provide places for fixing electric and hand tools, technological holes for stops and limiters. Lighting devices and sockets are best placed on nearby walls and objects.

Necessary materials

When selecting material for each workbench node, it is necessary to take into account the functional features and loads to which it will be subjected.

In order for the workbench not to turn out to be too massive, light softwood is preferred as the material for making the frame:

Pine;
alder;
Linden.

Hardwood, as well as plywood of various thicknesses, is used to make countertops.

The frame for a workbench can be welded from a metal square tube or angle of a suitable section, but most joiners prefer wood structures.

Making a simple table

As an example, we took the manufacture of a carpentry workbench with a table top 2 m long, 80 cm wide and 80 cm high. To make better use of time, you first need to glue the table top. While it is glued, you can prepare the components of the frame and its subsequent assembly.

During the manufacturing process you will need:

miter circular saw;
drill;
electric jigsaw;
clamps.

Table top assembly

Type-setting (glued) shield made of hardwood (ash, oak, beech, hornbeam). The recommended table top thickness is 60 mm. It is most rational to use a planed beam with a section of 60x40 mm for its manufacture. After preparing the length of the timber, it must be glued together into a shield of the required width. To get a shield 80 cm wide, you need to prepare 20 bars 60x40 mm.

For high-quality gluing, the following factors must be taken into account:

The bar is strictly rectangular in cross section (not a rhombus or a parallelepiped).
The shield must be clamped with special clamps that are capable of providing sufficient clamping force.
Gluing is carried out on a flat plane, while deformation during compression must be excluded.

You can do without all of the above and glue the shield by successively compressing the bars together with self-tapping screws or even nails. But in this case, there can be no talk of any flat surface of the countertop.

Plywood tabletop. Several sheets of plywood are glued together along the plane. The number of sheets to be glued depends on their thickness and on the planned thickness of the countertop. For high-quality gluing of plywood, a flat plane is required. The quality of the finished countertop depends on how even this plane is.

There are two options for gluing plywood at home:

With boards and clamps. Glue is applied to the plywood and compressed with clamps. For uniform compression, boards are placed under the clamps.
With planks and weights. Plywood pre-lubricated with glue is placed on a flat plane, boards are placed on top and pressed with a load.

Support manufacturing

The supporting legs of the desktop are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They look quite massive, but this is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the structure. The transverse frame parts are made of the same wood as the legs. For this, a beam with a section of 60x60 mm is enough.

In order to avoid the deformations that large-section solid wood parts are subject to, it is better to use for the manufacture of supports. It can be glued together from two or three blanks of a smaller section. For example, to make a beam with a section of 100x100 mm, you need to glue together three boards with a section of 105x35 mm along the plane. After gluing, you will get a blank 105x105 mm, where 5 mm is a margin for finishing.

To assemble the frame, spiked joints or dowels are used. This assembly option requires the presence of special equipment. Otherwise, the process will be unreasonably long. A simpler option is to use metal fasteners and fittings (bolts, screws, corners, self-tapping screws).

Frame size:

length - 180 cm;
width - 70 cm;
height - 74 cm.

The height is given taking into account the thickness of the tabletop (60 mm). The length and width of the frame ensures the presence of overhangs of the table top (10 cm per side from the ends, 5 cm per side in front and behind).

When assembling, the following blanks should be obtained:

Racks (legs) - 100x100 mm, 74 cm long.
Cross bars - 60x60x1600 mm (4 pcs.) And 60x60x500 mm (4 pcs.).

If you use spiked joints, then the length of the workpiece must be added to the length of the spike (recommended 60 mm), multiplied by 2.

Frame and table assembly

Before assembling, to the bottom of the tabletop along the edges, you need to attach transverse boards with a section of 100x60x800 mm and longitudinal 50x60x1800 mm. Cross boards are needed to prevent deformation of the countertop during operation. Longitudinal - for the subsequent equipment of the carpentry workbench with clamps.

To securely fix the longitudinal and transverse boards, glue should be used. If there is no confidence in the quality of the adhesive, they can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws or other metal fasteners.

If all dimensions are taken into account correctly, then the frame of the workbench will become clearly between the transverse and longitudinal boards from the bottom of the tabletop. The entire structure should be fastened with bolts, through the transverse boards of the table top and support pillars (legs). To prevent the bolt heads from interfering, countersunk holes must be drilled under them.

Folding design

It is advisable to use a folding workbench when the amount of working space is limited and the mobility of moving the desktop during operation is necessary. In most cases, a carpentry portable workbench is equipped with a removable top and a folding frame.

The tabletop can be hinged against the wall, and the legs can be folded under it. When using this design, the length of the legs should be calculated in such a way that they do not interfere with each other when folded. That is, their length should be less than half the distance between them.

Similar carpentry workbenches are designed for processing small parts. Therefore, the structural elements of these tables are not made as massive as on stationary ones. For the manufacture of support posts, a beam of 100x40 mm, transverse 60x40 is sufficient.

Any board material (OSB, chipboard, plywood) can be used as a countertop material. If the thickness of the board material is not enough, the tabletop can be reinforced with a frame of 30x50 timber (the cross section of the timber is determined by the planned rigidity of the tabletop).

Assembly of a folding joiner's workbench is made on bolts. In order for the table to be quickly disassembled, it is advisable to use special wing nuts instead of ordinary nuts.

It's no secret that a well-equipped workplace is the key to successful plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main item in the garage or workshop, around which the entire work area is arranged, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Buying a finished product in a distribution network can result in a tidy sum, so it's better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in strict accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.

Workbench with your own hands. How to do?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, consider the number and location of drawers, etc.

Necessary tools and materials

To make your own workbench, you need to prepare the following tools:

electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
joiner's square;
roulette;
bubble level;
set of wrenches.
When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
washers and nuts;
self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.

DIY workbench drawings

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.

Workbench made of wood with your own hands. A photo

Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.

To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.

To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, parts are cut from OSB sheets or plywood for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made for the support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the table top.

To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench workbench, be sure to use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, check the horizontal position of its location with a bubble level. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective compound, varnished or painted.

Small workbench for home DIY

The design of the locksmith workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate locksmith and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in a corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.

table top small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that 18 mm plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.

Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
Circular Saw;
joiner's square;
notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. You can buy a ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
spanners;
good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
plywood 18mm thick;
wooden beam 40x60 mm;
self-tapping screws;
bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If it is not possible to purchase a quality tool, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.

The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that a lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use PVA furniture glue to connect wooden parts. It has no time limits and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay the bottom sheet on three boards, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.

Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.

When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to the next step in the manufacture of the workbench with their own hands.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the joints, since if the geometry of the structure deviates from the right angle, the geometry of the structure will be violated. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.

You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. By choosing a recess for the head of the hardware with a pen drill, they ensure the aesthetics of the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage

A workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability that are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:

angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
welding machine;
building level;
electric jigsaw;
drill with a set of drills;
screwdriver;
measuring tool.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings

Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be bought in the construction market. You will need:

steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
profile pipe 60x40x2;
steel strip 40x4 mm;
steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
boards 50 mm thick;
15mm plywood and drawer rails;
metal screws and bolts.

In addition, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

cutting material. A profile pipe is cut into the frame. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the tabletop. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.

Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To reinforce the frame, pieces of steel pipes are welded every 400 mm as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. A photo

Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.

On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.

Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.

From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a crate of a power vertical panel for a tool is equipped.

The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sidewalls of the frame.

All welds and sharp corners go through a grinder with a peeling wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush nozzle.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

The upper steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, it is attached to a wooden table top with self-tapping screws.

They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.

After the workbench is made, a vice and other necessary equipment are installed, hooks are attached to place the tool.

What is a workbench

The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.