Adhesive for tent fabric. Repair of tourist tents at home and in field conditions

If the tent is torn, it is not necessary to throw it away. At home, with the help of a sealant, you can repair a parted seam, and with the help of two patches and glue, a broken tent fabric can be repaired. The main thing is to notice the damage in time, and after the repair the tent will become like new

An experienced traveler, before setting off on another trip, must carefully check all his equipment and inventory. It is better to identify any breakdown at home, which, in other matters, does not make such a discovery any pleasant.

If you find that your tent is torn, there is no desire to spend money on a new one, and the old one could still serve for several years, then you should not be upset. Almost any damage to a tent can be repaired at home, as long as it's not a giant tear, and unless the entire tent is holed up.

Tent damage can be divided into two types - divergence of the seam and rupture of the awning fabric.

If you find that the tent is torn along the seam, you will need to repair good sealant, which can be easily found in a camping equipment store. It is quite possible that you already have it at home, because many tourists recommend buying such repair tools in advance and taking them with you if you are going on a long trip.

Before applying the sealant, the bonding area must be properly cleaned. At the same time, be careful with the tent so that the gap does not go further. When the surface is cleaned, it is necessary to apply a sealant not too thick on the glued elements of the seam and the bends that cover them. Let it dry a little, then tightly connect the matter. For reliability and durability, the seams can be ironed with an iron or a stone (if the repair takes place far from civilization). A couple of hours after that, it is better not to touch the tent at all, and to guarantee reliability, leave it to dry in a dry, warm place for about a day.

If the fabric is torn directly, then first the gap should be tightly sewn up with a strong thread. After that, carefully coat the new seam with glue for raincoat fabrics. While it dries, cut out 2 patches, which should be about 2 cm larger than the gap on all sides.

As a material for patches, you can take a piece of jacket fabric. However, with some tents, manufacturers supply additional material for patches. We impregnate the resulting piece of fabric with a water-repellent agent. First, we apply waterproof glue to one side of each patch, coat the seam on both sides. When the glue has dried, repeat the procedure, give it time to dry slightly, after which we apply patches to the place of the gap from the inside and outside.

Using a stream of hot air from a hair dryer, we warm up the glues. We leave the tent for 4-5 hours, after which it will again be ready for full-functional use.

If the gap occurred already during the trip, then the hole can at least be sewn up, and the main repair work can be postponed until the return.

The composition of the repair kit

As a rule, a repair kit with everything you need is already included with a new tent. At least, this is the rule of good taste, which most manufacturers adhere to. It includes repair tube in case of frame breakage and a few self-adhesive patch for sealing cuts or just a couple of pieces of cloth and a tube of glue. The latter is preferable (why - more on that below).

If something is still not in the kit, it is wise to buy it right away. A cut repair kit, although not often, is still found in tourist shops. It costs from 100 to 300 rubles. Or you can assemble it yourself from any piece of waterproof fabric, plus buy a small tube of glue in the household for gluing all kinds of plastic materials: fabrics, PVC, polyester. But if there was no repair tube, then finding it separately, and even the desired diameter, is much more difficult. At least, I almost never met them in stores. In this case, it is easier to immediately buy a spare frame section. It costs from 50 to 200 rubles. and weighs relatively little, 40-100 g. But if something happens, repairs will be easier than ever.


Repair of cuts on the awning / bottom tents

Everything is quite simple:

I must say, the usual fabric patches plus a tube of glue, although there is more fuss with them, show themselves more reliably. They work better in nasty weather conditions when everything is wet, dirty and cold. Where their self-adhesive counterparts sometimes begin to fail.

big cuts. If the length of the cut is such that the existing patches are no longer enough, then they are either overlapped, or you have to sacrifice a packing bag from tents(pegs / arcs). Thankfully, most of these bags made by manufacturers from the same material as awning or bottom tents. There is a lot of fabric, the main thing would be glue.


Frame repair

If one of the frame sections is broken, the easiest and most reliable way to repair is to replace it with a spare one. We take out the elastic band passing inside the arc, replace the broken knee with a new one, after which we collect everything back. Total, we have a full-fledged arc in our hands again.

If in the repair kit we only have a repair tube, in this case:

Basically, on hastily you can not wind anything on the sides, but simply put a repair tube over the “fracture” and fix it in place with a piece of adhesive tape or wedge it with some kind of toothpick. But in this case, the places where the arc presses on the edge of the repair tube will be heavily loaded, and secondary breakdowns are possible.

If there is no repair tube, you can try to build it by folding several layers of tin from a can or even an aluminum beer can (alas, it is not uncommon that they are lying underfoot). If not, then you will have to invent a tire from some sticks placed in a circle or pegs with a V-shaped profile. Quite a cumbersome design, but, as they say, "there is no fish and cancer."

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Camping tents are the heaviest, since such models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. The weight of some models reaches 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for details, see "Number of seats"). Windproof/snowproof skirt The presence of a protective skirt along the bottom edge of the tent. The skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent, which is adjacent directly to the ground. It can be either sewn or removable. The presence of a skirt is essential when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will not allow snow or rain to penetrate into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and irregularities in the established place. Internal pockets The presence of internal pockets will allow you to organize the space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be installed separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single-layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensate accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the awning (from 300 to 20000 mm w.st.) Max Height water column, which can withstand the awning of the tent. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance rating of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning water resistance of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance, one can note a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight Availability of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, such hooks are fixed in the upper central part of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere resists the wind well, but has less living space compared to the semi-barrel. Typically, in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half-barrel has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is reserved for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometry are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models - those in which the frame design can combine several types. For example, half-barrel and hemisphere are used to produce large two-room camping tents. Seam sealing Method for sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams protect the tent from water leakage. Welded seams are very reliable and durable, as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that do not have seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents that don't need to be sealed simply because they will stand above the rain level (above the clouds). Pole diameter (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the poles of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame may have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arcs, the more rigid they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs are used with different diameter. In such tents, the arcs that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to hold the shape or give greater stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of ventilation windows (from 1 to 12) The presence of several such windows in a camping tent will be highly desirable, since the size of the tents often allows you to cook food inside, boil water. Usually tents with several rooms (see "Number of rooms") have a separate ventilation system in each of them. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can simultaneously accommodate in a tent. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) A tambour is a space separating a room from an exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used to store things, equipment. Inner tent material The name of the material from which the inner tent is made (see "Inner tent"). Nylon, produced in accordance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used for inner tents. It has greater strength and wear resistance than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the manufacture of inner tents. This tent can be recommended to those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages can also be noted low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom material The name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and deformation, which allows it to be widely used in the production of tent bottoms. Nylon is also often used in tent bottoms. Often used in the production of materials various technologies material processing. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU has a polyurethane treatment that allows it to withstand a water column pressure of 6000 mm (see "Water resistance of the bottom"). Reinforced polyethylene mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific gravity and is therefore used in the main production of camping tents (see "Intended Use"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents. has a high margin of safety. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good refractory, moisture and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the manufacture of tents. Tarpaulin material The material used to make the tarpaulin of the tent. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made of this material have a longer service life compared to tents made of nylon. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its strength when wet, is more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material has less resistance to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: it "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are imparted to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or by the thinnest film that is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. Such tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant plus when used in the highlands. In addition, silicone-coated fabric is 2-3 times more durable than non-silicone coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. Regular tarpaulin this moment used quite rarely. The tarpaulin is heavy, but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the design of the tent. In many camping tents, the rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus arranging an awning. Appointment Tourist tents according to their purpose can be classified into models for high mountains, middle mountains and plains. Tents for the highlands are considered extreme, and tents for the middle mountains and plains are divided into camping and trekking. Separately, you can select tents for fishing. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible in order to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style involves the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, campsites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation holes, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling, where weight plays a significant role. Such tents must have high reliability and rigidity, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents, as a rule, are not intended for overnight stays. In it you can hide from bad weather, relax. Typically, fishing tents are compact and light in weight. Fire-resistant impregnation The presence of a special impregnation that delays the spread of fire. To improve safety when using tents, some manufacturers impregnate the fabric with a composition that counteracts the spread of fire in case of accidental ignition. The slow spread of the fire will provide additional time to take action to fight it or get things out of the tent. Frame Type The type of frame provided by the tent design. A tent with an outer frame is more convenient to put up, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is put up first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows you to set up an inner tent without an awning (outer tent). Tents in which there is no frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Reinforced corners Reinforced tent corners. The fabric from which the tent is made can tear at the points of greatest stress. To reinforce the corners, inserts made of durable fabric are used, tailoring double layer or additional firmware with slings.

Seasonality: 2 Number of places: 3 Dimensions and weight: External tent dimensions (L×W×H): 210×160×130 cm Packed dimensions (L×W×H): 50×15×15 cm Gross weight: 2 ,9 kg Minimum weight (without pegs, stands and packaging): 1.79 kg Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D/190T PU 3000 mm Bottom: Polyester 75D/190T PU 5000 mm Stands: Steel Ø16 mm Hardware: YKK Classic one-layer house . For outdoor activities and light hiking Easy to install All seams are taped Zippered entrance Additional eyelets on the ridge allow you to set up the tent without poles using external supports. For example, between two trees Most of the entrance and the opposite end wall are made of mosquito netting. Due to this, the tent is well ventilated. Thanks to this, you can achieve optimal ventilation. Large overhangs from the sides of the tent and additional peaks from the ends of the tent will protect against "oblique" rain. Detachable tightening straps on the bag will allow you to easily fasten it under a backpack without additional fastening elements. At the same time, the tent can be taken out of the bag without unfastening the bag itself from the backpack (a necessary condition: the backpack must have at least two molle-type slings at the bottom) forum) To improve protection against slanting rain, the moisture-proof curtain at the entrance has been moved to the outside. The curtain closes with a separate zipper equipped with a large Velcro strap. Thus, ventilation will be maintained even when the moisture-proof curtains are completely closed. On the front end of the tent, the lower corners of the moisture-proof curtain are additionally glued to improve protection against oblique rain

Seasonality: 2 Number of places: 2 Dimensions and weight: Tent dimensions (L×W×H): 200×120×110 cm Packed dimensions (L×W×H): 45×15×15 cm Gross weight: 2, 13 kg Minimum weight (without pegs, stands and packaging): 1.16 kg Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D/190T PU 3000 mm Bottom: Polyester 75D/190T PU 5000 mm Stands: Steel Ø16 mm Hardware: YKK Classic one-layer house. For outdoor activities and easy hikes Easy to install All seams are taped Zipped entrance Additional eyelets on the ridge allow you to set up the tent without poles using external supports, for example, between two trees Most of the entrance and the opposite end wall are made of mosquito net. Due to this, the tent is well ventilated. Thanks to this, you can achieve optimal ventilation. Large overhangs from the sides of the tent and additional peaks from the ends of the tent will protect against "oblique" rain. Detachable tightening straps on the bag will allow you to easily fasten it under a backpack without additional fastening elements. At the same time, the tent can be taken out of the bag without unfastening the bag itself from the backpack (a necessary condition: the backpack must have at least two molle-type slings at the bottom) forum) To improve protection against slanting rain, the moisture-proof curtain at the entrance has been moved to the outside. The curtain closes with a separate zipper equipped with a large Velcro strap. Thus, ventilation will be maintained even when the moisture-proof curtains are completely closed. On the front end of the tent, the lower corners of the moisture-proof curtain are additionally glued to improve protection against oblique rain

A versatile dome shaped hiking tent. Manual for the BONZER 2 tent Features good aerodynamics easy to install awning and inner tent are installed simultaneously the ability to install an awning without an inner tent two vestibules entrances are duplicated with a mosquito net pockets made of mesh for small items hanging shelf two ventilation windows adjustable from the inside Application: mountain tourism, hiking , outdoor activities. General characteristics Purpose: extreme Inner tent: yes Number of seats: 2 Frame type: outer Geometry: hemisphere Design Number of entrances / rooms: 2 / 1 Number of vestibules: 2 Number of ventilation windows: 2 Windows: no Inner pockets: yes : no Hanging shelves: yes Possibility of attaching a flashlight: yes Seam sealing: taped Wind/snow skirt: no Mosquito net: yes UV protection: yes ) Pole material: aluminum Pole diameter: 11 mm / 9.5 mm Dimensions and weight Outer tent dimensions (LxWxH): 236x225x110 cm Inner tent dimensions (LxWxH): 210x126x105 cm Weight: 3.7 kg Additional information: color: blue light,green light,green dark Terminology: Weight (from 0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh from 0.8 to 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. Camping tents are the heaviest, since such models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. The weight of some models reaches 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for details, see "Number of seats"). Windproof/snowproof skirt The presence of a protective skirt along the bottom edge of the tent. The skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent, which is adjacent directly to the ground. It can be either sewn or removable. The presence of a skirt is essential when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will not allow snow or rain to penetrate into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and irregularities in the established place. Internal pockets The presence of internal pockets will allow you to organize the space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be installed separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single-layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensate accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the tent (from 300 to 20000 mm w.st.) The maximum height of the water column that the tent awning can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance rating of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning water resistance of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance, one can note a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight Availability of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, such hooks are fixed in the upper central part of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere resists the wind well, but has less living space compared to the semi-barrel. Typically, in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half-barrel has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is reserved for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometry are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models - those in which the frame design can combine several types. For example, half-barrel and hemisphere are used to produce large two-room camping tents. Seam sealing Method for sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams protect the tent from water leakage. Welded seams are very reliable and durable, as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that do not have seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents that don't need to be sealed simply because they will stand above the rain level (above the clouds). Pole diameter (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the poles of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame may have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arcs, the more rigid they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arcs that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to hold the shape or give greater stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of ventilation windows (from 1 to 12) The presence of several such windows in a camping tent will be highly desirable, since the size of the tents often allows you to cook food inside, boil water. Usually tents with several rooms (see "Number of rooms") have a separate ventilation system in each of them. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can simultaneously accommodate in a tent. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) A tambour is a space separating a room from an exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used to store things, equipment. Inner tent material The name of the material from which the inner tent is made (see "Inner tent"). Nylon, produced in accordance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used for inner tents. It has greater strength and wear resistance than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the manufacture of inner tents. This tent can be recommended to those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages can also be noted low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom material The name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and deformation, which allows it to be widely used in the production of tent bottoms. Nylon is also often used in tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various materials processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU has a polyurethane treatment that allows it to withstand a water column pressure of 6000 mm (see "Water resistance of the bottom"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific gravity and is therefore used in the main production of camping tents (see "Intended Use"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents. has a high margin of safety. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good refractory, moisture and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the manufacture of tents. Tarpaulin material The material used to make the tarpaulin of the tent. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made of this material have a longer service life compared to tents made of nylon. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its strength when wet, is more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material has less resistance to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: it "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are imparted to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or by the thinnest film that is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. Such tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant plus when used in the highlands. In addition, silicone-coated fabric is 2-3 times more durable than non-silicone coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. Conventional tarpaulin is currently used quite rarely. The tarpaulin is heavy, but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the design of the tent. In many camping tents, the rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus arranging an awning. Appointment Tourist tents according to their purpose can be classified into models for high mountains, middle mountains and plains. Tents for the highlands are considered extreme, and tents for the middle mountains and plains are divided into camping and trekking. Separately, you can select tents for fishing. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible in order to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style involves the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, campsites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation holes, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling, where weight plays a significant role. Such tents must have high reliability and rigidity, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents, as a rule, are not intended for overnight stays. In it you can hide from bad weather, relax. Typically, fishing tents are compact and light in weight. Hanging shelves Availability of hanging shelves. In some tents, you can find special hooks or loops designed for hanging shelves (they can be either bundled with the tent or purchased separately). Frame Type The type of frame provided by the tent design. A tent with an outer frame is more convenient to put up, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is put up first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows you to set up an inner tent without an awning (outer tent). Tents in which there is no frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Storm braces Availability of special braces. Due to the larger number (compared to conventional tents) and a certain fastening scheme, such guys provide a high level of frame rigidity, which is necessary during stormy winds.

Seasonality: 3 Number of seats: 2 Number of poles: 2 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L×W×H): 350×135×100 cm Dimensions of the bed (L×W×H): 200×120×90 cm Packed dimensions (L×W×H): 48×19×19 cm Gross weight: 2.99 kg Minimum weight (without bag and pegs): 2.73 kg Materials: Outer sheet: Polyester 75D/190T PU 5000 mm Inner tent: Polyester 210T R/S W/R Bottom: Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W/R Poles: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø8.5 mm Fittings: Duraflex corner elements. Due to this, the internal volume is obtained as comfortable as possible Two entrances, two vestibules The entrance of the inner tent is duplicated with a mosquito net quickly set up the tent even in adverse weather conditions

Seasonality: 3 Number of places: 1-2 Number of poles: 2 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L×W×H): 220×180×88 cm Dimensions of the bed (L×W×H): 210×100 ×83 cm Packed dimensions (L×W×H): 45×15×15 cm Vestibule depth: 70 cm Gross weight: 2.44 kg Minimum weight: 2.2 kg (marked on the bag) Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D/190T PU 5000 mm Inner tent: Polyester 210T R/S W/R Bottom: Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W/R Poles: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø 9.5 mm Accessories: Duraflex Universal tent for 1-2 people on the outside arches Easy to install Thanks to the asymmetric design and arches with curved elements, the tent has not only a comfortable sleeping compartment, but also a fairly spacious vestibule Awning and a tent can be installed simultaneously It is possible to install a separate awning without an inner tent The entrance of the inner tent is duplicated with a mosquito net Good rain protection Storm guy lines Pockets for small things in the inner tent The seams of the awning and the bottom are taped The color marking of the arches The guy ropes have an interwoven reflective thread

Dimensions and weight: Tarpaulin dimensions (L×W×H): 305×305×210 cm Packed dimensions (L×W×H): 56×26×20 cm Gross weight: 7.81 kg Minimum weight: 7, 17 kg Materials: Tent material: Polyester 75D/190T PU 3000 mm Poles: F/G POLE Ø11 mm Fittings: YKK Camping tent with one entrance for comfortable outdoor recreation When it rains, the tent is closed with folding walls on the sides and internal curtains on the entrance side Fine-mesh mesh and perimeter skirt keeps insects out Double storm lines along the ribs of the awning significantly increase wind resistance

Seasonality: 3 Number of places: 2 Number of poles: 1 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L×W×H): 315x160x105 cm Dimensions of the bed (L×W×H): 240x110x95 cm Dimensions in packed form (L× W×H): 50x17x13 cm Gross weight: 2.2 kg Minimum weight (excluding bag and pegs): 1.81 kg Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D/190T PU 00 mm Inner tent: Polyester R/S 68D/210T W /R Bottom: Polyester 100D PU 10000 mm Poles: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø8.5 mm Hardware: Duraflex Lightweight universal scarf for 1-2 people on one pole Easy to set up Awning and tent can be set up at the same time Can be set up separately without an inner tent Entrance and ventilation of the inner tent are duplicated with a mosquito net The entrance of the awning in the lower part is fixed with an additional hook

Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L×W×H): 215×110×90 cm Total weight: 0.54 kg Minimum weight: 0.46 kg Materials: Tent: Polyester Mesh Bottom: Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W/R Hardware: Duraflex ® Lightweight mesh tent. It can be used both independently and together with the “Lost” awning. The hinge on the ridge allows you to set up a tent without poles using external supports, for example, between two trees. Trekking poles or improvised material can be used as poles. Comrades Easygoers, pay attention! A full-fledged single tent made of Polyester Mesh with a waterproof bottom! It is recommended to be used together with the "Lost" awning! Of course, the summer option - it is impossible to "breathe" inside, but there will definitely be no condensation. There is plenty of fresh air - you can safely take a tent to the southern latitudes. Ticks, mosquitoes, tarantulas and other snakes will hopelessly trample around the entrance, which closes with a Duraflex ® one-way zipper, looking for non-existent gaps. Of the unequivocal pluses: - Light weight - 0.46-0.54 kg. Add the weight of the awning - 0.213-0.221 kg ("Lost" awning), and up to a kilogram total weight still won't last. - Small amount of packaging. - One-piece waterproof bottom made of Polyester 190T PU 00mm W/R - Easy to install. The loop on the ridge allows you to set up a tent without poles. You can use trekking poles, as well as pull the tent over rocks and/or trees. The seams are partially edged with fabric from the inside, partially made with a sewing seam. Everything is extremely simple, durable and easy. Additional discounts do not apply to products with a red price.

Description: Comfortable camping tent Alexika Grand Tower 4 has become a continuation of the previous model Alexika Tower 4. Its developers have taken into account all the wishes of customers and have provided many new features that make your trips to nature even more comfortable. The capacious tent is designed for an excellent holiday for four people, from mid-May to mid-October. The tent is compact and does not create any problems during transportation. A distinctive feature of the model is a huge vestibule that can accommodate and dining table, and folding chairs. The tambour is equipped with a removable floor supplied with the tent. The wide side entrance is covered with a mosquito net, which allows tourists to forget about mosquitoes. You can rest easy in warm time years, even near a body of water. The entrance to the inner tent is separated by a canopy closed with convenient mounts . Transparent inserts in the side walls of the tent make it possible to fill its interior with sunlight - you can be sure that your temporary home will be light and cozy. Strong arcs and excellent wind resistance of Alexika Grand Tower 4 allow you not to worry about its reliability. Is issued in two flowers: green - an art. 9166.4401 beige - art. 9166.4404 Characteristics: Number of places 4 Weight 12.0 kg Scope Camping Living in nature with high comfort. Seasonality spring-autumn Temperature down to minus, strong wind, prolonged rains, snow. Inner tent yes Wind resistance medium Fresh wind 9-11 m.c (31-39 km/h) Size 520x260x178 cm Size in cover 25x70 cm Tarpaulin material Polyester 190T PU 4000 mm Bottom material Polyester 150D Oxford PU 00 mm Pole material Durapol 11 mm Quantity inputs 3 Color green Technologies: Impregnation that delays the spread of fire. The seams are sealed with heat shrink tape. The loaded elements of the tent are reinforced with a special material. The windproof canopy around the perimeter is stitched with a strong sling. Zippers on the outer tent are fixed with aluminum hooks. The inner tent is equipped with a mosquito net, pockets, a loop for a lantern. The lower part of the awning is reinforced with a protective strip of Oxford 150D. Three entrances to the tent, side with mosquito net. Comfortable case with compression straps. Scheme: Instructions: View in the cover The cover is a compression bag Set: outer awning, inner awning, arcs, pegs, floor in the vestibule, cover Unfold the inner tent Assemble the arcs Carefully thread the arcs p sleeves on the tent according to the color marking Insert the ends of the arcs in the grommet Insert the ends pull the inner awning into the eyelets on one side of the tent Pull the inner tent Attach the awning on the poles with hooks Fasten the inner tent with pegs Throw the outer awning over the installed inner tent Throw the outer awning over the installed inner tent Fix the outer awning with fastexes around the perimeter Pull the outer awning Insert the third arc according to the color marking Stretch the vestibule and fix with pegs Close all zippers and stretch guy lines Customer photos: General characteristics Purpose: camping Inner tent: yes Number of places: 4 Frame type: internal Geometry: hemisphere Design Number of entrances / rooms: 3 / 1 Number of vestibules: 2 Ventilation windows: no Windows : yes Inner pockets: yes Storm braces: yes Canopy: no Possibility of attaching a flashlight: yes Seam sealing: welded Wind/snow skirt: yes Mosquito net: yes Reinforced corners: yes and weight Outer tent dimensions (LxWxH): 520x260x178 cm Inner tent dimensions (LxWxH): 220x260 cm Packed dimensions (LxWxH): 70x25 cm Weight: 12 kg They allow you to remove moisture from the tent, to regulate the flow of fresh air. Weight (from 0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh from 0.8 to 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. Camping tents are the heaviest, since such models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. The weight of some models reaches 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for details, see "Number of seats"). Windproof/snowproof skirt The presence of a protective skirt along the bottom edge of the tent. The skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent, which is adjacent directly to the ground. It can be either sewn or removable. The presence of a skirt is essential when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will not allow snow or rain to penetrate into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and irregularities in the established place. Internal pockets The presence of internal pockets will allow you to organize the space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be installed separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single-layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensate accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the tent (from 300 to 20000 mm w.st.) The maximum height of the water column that the tent awning can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance rating of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning water resistance of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance, one can note a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight Availability of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, such hooks are fixed in the upper central part of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere resists the wind well, but has less living space compared to the semi-barrel. Typically, in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half-barrel has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is reserved for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometry are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models - those in which the frame design can combine several types. For example, half-barrel and hemisphere are used to produce large two-room camping tents. Seam sealing Method for sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams protect the tent from water leakage. Welded seams are very reliable and durable, as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that do not have seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents that don't need to be sealed simply because they will stand above the rain level (above the clouds). Pole diameter (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the poles of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame may have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arcs, the more rigid they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arcs that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to hold the shape or give greater stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can simultaneously accommodate in a tent. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) A tambour is a space separating a room from an exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see fig. "Inner tent") and an exit, which can also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used to store things, equipment. Bottom material The name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and deformation, which allows it to be widely used in the production of tent bottoms. Nylon is also often used in tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various materials processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU has a polyurethane treatment that allows it to withstand a water column pressure of 6000 mm (see "Water resistance of the bottom"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific gravity and is therefore used in the main production of camping tents (see "Intended Use"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents. has a high margin of safety. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good refractory, moisture and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the manufacture of tents. Tarpaulin material The material used to make the tarpaulin of the tent. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made of this material have a longer service life compared to tents made of nylon. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its strength when wet, is more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material has less resistance to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: it "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are imparted to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or by the thinnest film that is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. Such tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant plus when used in the highlands. In addition, silicone-coated fabric is 2-3 times more durable than non-silicone coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. Conventional tarpaulin is currently used quite rarely. The tarpaulin is heavy, but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the design of the tent. In many camping tents, the rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus arranging an awning. Appointment Tourist tents according to their purpose can be classified into models for high mountains, middle mountains and plains. Tents for the highlands are considered extreme, and tents for the middle mountains and plains are divided into camping and trekking. Separately, you can select tents for fishing. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible in order to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style involves the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, campsites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation holes, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling, where weight plays a significant role. Such tents must have high reliability and rigidity, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents, as a rule, are not intended for overnight stays. In it you can hide from bad weather, relax. Typically, fishing tents are compact and light in weight. Fire-resistant impregnation The presence of a special impregnation that delays the spread of fire. To improve safety when using tents, some manufacturers impregnate the fabric with a composition that counteracts the spread of fire in case of accidental ignition. The slow spread of the fire will provide additional time to take action to fight it or get things out of the tent. Frame Type The type of frame provided by the tent design. A tent with an outer frame is more convenient to put up, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is put up first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows you to set up an inner tent without an awning (outer tent). Tents in which there is no frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Reinforced corners Reinforced tent corners. The fabric from which the tent is made can tear at the points of greatest stress. To reinforce the corners, inserts made of durable fabric are used, sewn in a double layer or additional stitching with slings. Storm braces Availability of special braces. Due to the larger number (compared to conventional tents) and a certain fastening scheme, such guys provide a high level of frame rigidity, which is necessary during stormy winds.

Description: Comfortable camping tent model VICTORIA 10 is one of the most spacious models. It is designed for a group of tourists of ten people. Three entrances give them the opportunity to use separate parts tents without interfering with each other. The presence of an inner tent makes it possible to close the passage to sleeping places as conveniently as possible so that the night coolness does not disturb the sleep of those sleeping. When folded, the VICTORIA 10 camping tent weighs only 24 kilograms, which is a very good indicator for a tent of this capacity. The dimensions of the tent allow you to transport it either in the trunk of a car or in a regular tourist backpack. The durable bottom of the tent does not get wet, and the outer surface completely protects it from moisture getting inside. Another advantage of the VICTORIA 10 model is strong steel arches inserted in the corners and in the middle into the tent canvas. Thanks to this, the model is characterized by maximum stability. The tent reliably protects from the wind, so nothing will prevent tourists from indulging in a comfortable rest in the bosom of nature. The large camping tent VICTORIA 10 is indispensable for traveling school groups during the holidays, it will also become perfect choice and for young people who prefer to actively relax in nature. Other tents of the VICTORIA series: 5-seater tent 28.2 kg Number of places 10 Seasonality spring-autumn Temperature down to minus, strong wind, heavy rains, snow. Size 600x300x200 cm Size in bag 27x98 cm Tarpaulin material Polyester 190T PU 4000 mm Bottom material Polyester 150D Oxford PU 00 mm Inner tent yes Pole material Steel 16mm Wind resistance average Fresh wind 9-11 m.c (31-39 km/h) Number of entrances 3 Color green Field of application Camping Living in nature with high comfort. Technologies: Impregnation that delays the spread of fire. The seams are sealed with heat shrink tape. The knots of the tent, experiencing high loads, are reinforced with a more durable fabric. The edge of an awning is sheathed by a strong sling. Zippers on the outer tent are fixed with an aluminum hook. The inner tent is equipped with a mosquito net, pockets, a ring for a lantern. Efficient system ventilation consists of three ventilation windows with mosquito nets and external zippered curtains located around the perimeter of the tent. Additional steel racks for door curtains. Three entrances to the tent. Two large transparent windows on the roof of the tent. The inner tent is divided into 2 bedrooms 5 5 people. Scheme: General characteristics Purpose: camping Inner tent: yes Number of seats: 10 Frame type: inner Geometry: non-standard Design Number of entrances / rooms: 3 / 1 Number of vestibules: 2 Number of ventilation windows: 3 Number of windows: 2 Inner pockets: no Canopy: yes Possibility of attaching a flashlight: yes Seam sealing: taped Wind / snow skirt: no Mosquito net: yes UV protection: yes Reinforced corners: yes Materials Tarpaulin material: polyester (185T PU) Bottom material: polyethylene Inner tent material: polyester (RipStop Light) poles: steel Pole diameter: 19 mm Dimensions and weight Outer tent dimensions (LxWxH): 600x300x200 cm Inner tent dimensions (LxWxH): 480x300x200 cm Packed dimensions (LxWxH): 98x30x28 cm Weight: 24 kg Additional information: inner tent with partition in the middle Terminology: Weight (from 0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh from 0.8 to 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. Camping tents are the heaviest, since such models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. The weight of some models reaches 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for details, see "Number of seats"). Windproof/snowproof skirt The presence of a protective skirt along the bottom edge of the tent. The skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent, which is adjacent directly to the ground. It can be either sewn or removable. The presence of a skirt is essential when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will not allow snow or rain to penetrate into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and irregularities in the established place. Internal pockets The presence of internal pockets will allow you to organize the space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be installed separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single-layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensate accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the tent (from 300 to 20000 mm w.st.) The maximum height of the water column that the tent awning can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance rating of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning water resistance of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance, one can note a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight Availability of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, such hooks are fixed in the upper central part of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere resists the wind well, but has less living space compared to the semi-barrel. Typically, in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half-barrel has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is reserved for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometry are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models - those in which the frame design can combine several types. For example, half-barrel and hemisphere are used to produce large two-room camping tents. Seam sealing Method for sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams protect the tent from water leakage. Welded seams are very reliable and durable, as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that do not have seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents that don't need to be sealed simply because they will stand above the rain level (above the clouds). Pole diameter (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the poles of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame may have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arcs, the more rigid they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arcs that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to hold the shape or give greater stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of ventilation windows (from 1 to 12) The presence of several such windows in a camping tent will be highly desirable, since the size of the tents often allows you to cook food inside, boil water. Usually tents with several rooms (see "Number of rooms") have a separate ventilation system in each of them. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can simultaneously accommodate in a tent. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) A tambour is a space separating a room from an exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used to store things, equipment. Inner tent material The name of the material from which the inner tent is made (see "Inner tent"). Nylon, produced in accordance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used for inner tents. It has greater strength and wear resistance than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the manufacture of inner tents. This tent can be recommended to those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages can also be noted low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom material The name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and deformation, which allows it to be widely used in the production of tent bottoms. Nylon is also often used in tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various materials processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU has a polyurethane treatment that allows it to withstand a water column pressure of 6000 mm (see "Water resistance of the bottom"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific gravity and is therefore used in the main production of camping tents (see. "Destination"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents. has a high margin of safety. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good refractory, moisture and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the manufacture of tents. Tarpaulin material The material used to make the tarpaulin of the tent. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made of this material have a longer service life compared to tents made of nylon. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its strength when wet, is more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material has less resistance to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: it "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are imparted to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or by the thinnest film that is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. Such tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant plus when used in the highlands. In addition, silicone-coated fabric is 2-3 times more durable than non-silicone coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. Conventional tarpaulin is currently used quite rarely. The tarpaulin is heavy, but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the design of the tent. In many camping tents, the rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus arranging an awning. Appointment Tourist tents according to their purpose can be classified into models for high mountains, middle mountains and plains. Tents for the highlands are considered extreme, and tents for the middle mountains and plains are divided into camping and trekking. Separately, you can select tents for fishing. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible in order to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style involves the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, campsites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation holes, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling, where weight plays a significant role. Such tents must have high reliability and rigidity, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents, as a rule, are not intended for overnight stays. In it you can hide from bad weather, relax. Typically, fishing tents are compact and light in weight. Fire-resistant impregnation The presence of a special impregnation that delays the spread of fire. To improve safety when using tents, some manufacturers impregnate the fabric with a composition that counteracts the spread of fire in case of accidental ignition. The slow spread of the fire will provide additional time to take action to fight it or get things out of the tent. Frame Type The type of frame provided by the tent design. A tent with an outer frame is more convenient to put up, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is put up first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows you to set up an inner tent without an awning (outer tent). Tents in which there is no frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Reinforced corners Reinforced tent corners. The fabric from which the tent is made can tear at the points of greatest stress. To reinforce the corners, inserts made of durable fabric are used, sewn in a double layer or additional stitching with slings.

Number of places: 2 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L×W×H): 410×160×110 cm Dimensions of the bed (L×W×H): 220×140/90×100 cm Packed dimensions (L×W×H): 50×22×17 cm Gross weight: 3.89 kg Minimum weight (excluding bag and pegs): 3.29 kg Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D/190T PU8000 mm Inner tent: Polyester R /S 68D/210T W/R Bottom: Polyester 100D PU 10000 mm Poles: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø8.5 mm Pegs: Trigonal aluminum pin Hardware: YKK Tourist tunnel tent with a comfortable interior and a large vestibule Design on 3 external arches allows you to quickly set up the tent in adverse weather conditions Tent and awning can be installed at the same time It is possible to install a separate awning without an inner tent They provide good flow ventilation of the internal volume The entrance to the vestibule and the main tent is duplicated with a mosquito net An additional large ventilation window in the vestibule is closed with a waterproof zippered curtain Guy ropes have a woven reflective thread Guy fastening loops on the tent are duplicated with reflective strips The seams of the awning and the bottom are taped

Geodesic tent with "hallway". Number of places: Full number of beds. Depending on the purpose of the tent, the width of the bed varies from 51 cm to 70 cm. 2 Weight: Shows the weight of the tent without cover and with cover. 5.30 kg Size: 126x270x370 cm Size in case: 55x39x13 cm Tarpaulin material: 185 Polyester PU Lightweight polyester material with a four-layer polyurethane coating. UV resistant. Does not stretch when wet. Bottom material: 210T Nylon Taffeta PU Polyurethane coated tight weave fabric. Inner tent: 190T RipStop Nylon W/R Lightweight and durable material with high breathability and water repellency. Arch material: Alu 7001/T6,9,5 mm Number of entrances: Two or more entrances increase the comfort of living, provide additional convenience of entry and exit and excellent ventilation in hot weather. 1 Description Benefits and Features Ten attachment points for high wind resistance Easy to install. Two entrances to the outer tent. Two entrances to the inner tent with separately closing mesh windows. Two ventilation outlets in the outer and inner tents. Four pockets in the inner tent. Anodized frame aluminum alloy . Reflective elements on the braces. Waterproof execution of coverings, ventilating outlets and joints. Especially reinforced corner straps. General characteristics Purpose: trekking Inner tent: yes Number of seats: 3 Frame type: outer Geometry: hemisphere Design Number of entrances / rooms: 1 / 1 Number of vestibules: 2 Ventilation windows: yes Windows: no Inner pockets: yes no Possibility of attaching a flashlight: yes Seam sealing: Taped Wind / Snow skirt: No Mosquito net: Yes UV protection: Yes aluminum (7001 T6) Pole diameter: 9.5 mm Dimensions and weight Outer tent dimensions (LxWxH): 380x270x126 cm Inner tent dimensions (LxWxH): 240x220x125 cm Packed dimensions (LxWxH): 55x39x13 cm Weight: 5.5 kg Terminology: Ventilation windows Availability in the design of the tent ventilation holes. They allow you to remove moisture from the tent, to regulate the flow of fresh air. Weight (from 0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh from 0.8 to 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. Camping tents are the heaviest, since such models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. The weight of some models reaches 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for details, see "Number of seats"). Windproof/snowproof skirt The presence of a protective skirt along the bottom edge of the tent. The skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent, which is adjacent directly to the ground. It can be either sewn or removable. The presence of a skirt is essential when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will not allow snow or rain to penetrate into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and irregularities in the established place. Internal pockets The presence of internal pockets will allow you to organize the space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be installed separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single-layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensate accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the tent (from 300 to 20000 mm w.st.) The maximum height of the water column that the tent awning can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance rating of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning water resistance of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance, one can note a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight Availability of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, such hooks are fixed in the upper central part of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere resists the wind well, but has less living space compared to the semi-barrel. Typically, in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half-barrel has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is reserved for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometry are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models - those in which the frame design can combine several types. For example, half-barrel and hemisphere are used to produce large two-room camping tents. Seam sealing Method for sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams protect the tent from water leakage. Welded seams are very reliable and durable, as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that do not have seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents that don't need to be sealed simply because they will stand above the rain level (above the clouds). Pole diameter (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the poles of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame may have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arcs, the more rigid they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arcs that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to hold the shape or give greater stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can simultaneously accommodate in a tent. Number of guy lines (2 to 39) The number of guy lines of the tent. Depending on the purpose and design, the tents are equipped with a different number of side guys. The more braces, the greater the resistance of the structure to deformation from the wind (ceteris paribus). But at the same time, it takes longer to set up a tent. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) A tambour is a space separating a room from an exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used to store things, equipment. Inner tent material The name of the material from which the inner tent is made (see "Inner tent"). Nylon, produced in accordance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used for inner tents. It has greater strength and wear resistance than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the manufacture of inner tents. This tent can be recommended to those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages can also be noted low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom material The name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and deformation, which allows it to be widely used in the production of tent bottoms. Nylon is also often used in tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various materials processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU has a polyurethane treatment that allows it to withstand a water column pressure of 6000 mm (see "Water resistance of the bottom"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific gravity and is therefore used in the main production of camping tents (see "Intended Use"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents. has a high margin of safety. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good refractory, moisture and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the manufacture of tents. Tarpaulin material The material used to make the tarpaulin of the tent. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made of this material have a longer service life compared to tents made of nylon. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its strength when wet, is more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material has less resistance to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: it "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are imparted to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or by the thinnest film that is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. Such tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant plus when used in the highlands. In addition, silicone-coated fabric is 2-3 times more durable than non-silicone coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. Conventional tarpaulin is currently used quite rarely. The tarpaulin is heavy, but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the design of the tent. In many camping tents, the rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus arranging an awning. Appointment Tourist tents according to their purpose can be classified into models for high mountains, middle mountains and plains. Tents for the highlands are considered extreme, and tents for the middle mountains and plains are divided into camping and trekking. Separately, you can select tents for fishing. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible in order to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style involves the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, campsites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation holes, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling, where weight plays a significant role. Such tents must have high reliability and rigidity, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents, as a rule, are not intended for overnight stays. In it you can hide from bad weather, relax. Typically, fishing tents are compact and light in weight. Frame Type The type of frame provided by the tent design. A tent with an outer frame is more convenient to put up, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is put up first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows you to set up an inner tent without an awning (outer tent). Tents in which there is no frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.).

The task of any awning is to effectively protect the interior from precipitation, sun, wind, and cold. Even small damages reduce the protective properties of the tent or awning. What damage can be repaired at home?

Repair of punctures and damage to the awning at home

The textile part of the tent and covering awnings are made of dense fabric with a water-repellent coating. Finished products must be completely sealed. Therefore, even microscopic holes from needles at the seams of the awning are boiled with hot air or glued with a special tape.

It is quite difficult to damage such tissue. The tightness of the tent (awning) can be broken for one of the following reasons:

In the first case, the tent should be immediately shown to the repairman. It is possible that the entire surface of the tent is worn out and beyond repair, so the master will advise you to buy a new tent.

Minor "injuries" can be repaired without professional repair. How to do it right? It is not enough to simply sew the damage with a thread - such a repair will not restore the tightness of the product. The fabric must be glued and patched with a piece of a similar awning material.

For a simple repair, you will need a patch, a needle with a strong thread, glue for working with synthetic fabric. Textiles for the patch can be bought at a camping equipment store or cut from an unnecessary awning.

Glue is needed moisture resistant, able to withstand the load on the awning and not crack from frequent folding of the tent:


Simple gluing procedure:

  1. Cut the patch to size 2-5 cm wider than the damage;
  2. Sew the gap to avoid displacement of the torn edges under the patch;
  3. Stretch the awning on a flat, hard surface;
  4. Remove dirt and degrease the gluing site with alcohol, acetone or an alcohol-containing liquid (White Spirit, vodka, cologne);
  5. Apply a layer of glue on the damaged surface of the awning and on the patch;
  6. Press the patch firmly against the awning, straightening the folds on the surface of the textile parts;
  7. If necessary, remove excess glue that has come out along the edges;
  8. Leave the tent under pressure for at least 24 hours.

For another gluing method you will need:

  • Industrial (construction) hair dryer;
  • Silicone roller with a heat-resistant surface;
  • Patch;
  • Needle with strong thread
  • Glue;

For thermal method one of the listed compounds for PVC is suitable. You can also use a special thermoplastic adhesive, such as Rapid.


Tip: Try to choose a patch that is as close in material and structure as possible to the fabric of the awning.

How to repair worn surfaces and seams

After several years active use, even an awning without visible damage can begin to let water through. There may be several reasons:

  1. The layer of polymeric water-repellent impregnation is worn out.

In the instructions for the tent, the presence of such a coating is referred to as "durable water repellent" or DWR. The polymer layer is applied to the outer surface of the tent and prevents moisture from being absorbed into the fabric.

If the DWR wears out, areas of the fabric begin to absorb moisture from precipitation. The fabric becomes heavier, heavy condensation and / or small leaks may appear on the wrong side of the tent.

To fix this problem, you will need to buy impregnation for the awning. For example, McNett ReviveX Durable Waterproofing (McNett, USA), Grangers Fabsil Universal Protector (Granger's, UK), Holmenkol HighTec Proof (Holmenkol, Germany) and others. You can restore the moisture-repellent layer yourself:

  • Clean the fabric from dirt;
  • A straight awning can be simply laid out on the floor, and the tent can be set up on the frame;
  • Treat with impregnation with a spray or sponge;
  • Dry thoroughly when unfolded.

"Home" processing of awning fabric will need to be carried out regularly, at least 1 time in 2 years. Professional tools are much more stable.

Important: impregnation should be applied strictly according to the instructions. Be sure to use protective equipment - goggles, rubber gloves.


Signs of a worn coating:

  • The textile surface becomes sticky. Parts of the tent stick to the hands or "glue".
  • Unpleasant "chemical" ODOUR.
  • Partial delamination of the coating from the fabric.

It is possible to restore the PU coating, but this process will take a lot of time. The main difficulty is to find a composition in the store for applying a new layer of PU. For example, McNett Tent Sure Tent Sealant or Aquaseal Polycoat from McNett (USA). Step by step process repair looks like this:

  • Remove the remnants of the old coating. To do this, you can use a non-metallic hard brush. It is easier to clean the cover if you pre-wash the tent in the washing machine. It is important to use gentle detergents and wash in "manual" or "delicate" modes.
  • Rinse and degrease the cleaned cloth.
  • Unfold (stretch on the frame).
  • Apply evenly with a sponge or brush.
  • Dry unfolded for up to 24 hours.
  • Treat the surface with baby powder (talc), put away for storage.
  1. The seam on the tent with PU-impregnation is leaking.

The seams of the tent, welded or glued with a special tape, cannot always be restored at home. If the parts were thermally bonded, repairs should be carried out immediately in the workshop.

To repair a seam with a peeled tape, you will need:


Before starting the repair, the awning must be laid out (stretched on the frame) with the seams outward. Thereafter:

  • Remove and carefully clean off the remnants of the "factory" tape;
  • Degrease the seam;
  • Mark the place of application of glue with masking tape;
  • Apply a thick layer of glue so that the composition is absorbed as deeply as possible. This can be done with a soft brush or tube applicator;
  • Apply the tape evenly and press;
  • Remove excess glue from the edges of the tape;
  • Dry completely during the day;
  • Before folding, remove the adhesive tape, sprinkle the seams with talc (powder).

Tip: if gaps appear at the seam, they must be sewn with a thick thread before gluing.

  1. The seam on the tent with silicone impregnation is leaking.

Tents with internal and external silicone coating (marking Si/Si, Sil/Sil) cannot be thermally repaired. Often, such models come with a repair kit with special patches and a silicone-based adhesive. If this is not in the set, you can repair the seams using this method:


Tip: silicone treatment is best done outdoors. It is important that the weather is dry and warm.

Urgent repair - how to make a temporary patch

In camping conditions, the tent is not difficult to repair if you have a “repair kit” of glue and a suitable piece of awning fabric with you. If there is no such set, then Ambulance» for a textile tent - any polyurethane adhesive-sealant that can be used to fasten the ends of the gap.

To repair small tears in a polyethylene tent or floor covering, experienced tourists recommend using reinforced sanitary scotch tape.

Pieces of adhesive tape, evenly attached to a degreased surface from the inside and outside tents will allow you to temporarily “patch” the leak. At home, such a patch can be fixed thermally: warm it up with a hairdryer and roll it with a roller.

How not to repair

There are two most “harmful” repair methods that masters do not recommend resorting to even to temporarily fix leaks:


Repair in the workshop: what you need to know

Any inaccurate repair, especially thermal gluing, can ruin the awning fabric. Therefore, it is better to contact the workshop. Where to go for professional repair?


The repairman will inspect the entire surface of the tent, give recommendations on the feasibility and methods of repair. It is possible that during the inspection, other damage and weakened areas of the tissue will be found.

Together with a specialist, the owner of the tent can choose a convenient way to troubleshoot. The workshop offers the following services:


Experts will carry out repairs better and more accurately than it can be done at home. Depending on the region, the cost of repairing 1 meter of an awning is from 700 to 800 rubles. The final price of such a service is determined by the size and complexity of the damage, the degree of deterioration of the fabric.

Tent- This is an indispensable equipment for any serious hike. Modern models are equipped with a durable canvas and a frame made of composite materials, however, even they can be damaged during operation. As a rule, this happens on a hike, far from civilization, which means that any self-respecting tourist should know how to repair a tent on a camping trip, having a minimal repair kit at hand.

Repair of the tent depends on the nature of the damage. Damage can be caused to either the coating or the frame. In the first case, we are dealing with cuts, and in the second case, with deformation of the frame sections. Let's take a closer look at how tent repair.

How to repair a tent?

Cut repair

As with rubber boat repair, the first step is to wipe down the cut. This is necessary to clean it from dirt and water. This is necessary in order to improve the contact between the surface and the patch. To be sure, you can degrease the cut with a cotton swab with alcohol or cologne.

The patch is cut so that its edges are 1 or 2 centimeters larger than the cut. The corners should be rounded so that they do not bulge. If you are lucky and have a self-adhesive patch on hand, then simply remove the protective film from it and carefully stick it on. To ensure a snug fit, glue while stretching the tent fabric. Then smooth the patch well from the center to the edges, removing air and wrinkles.

If you are unlucky and you have damaged the fabric tent, or you simply do not have self-adhesive at hand, then you will need a tube of glue. Adhesives are different, so before using, carefully read the instructions. As a rule, 15-20 minutes is enough for the glue to set. At this time, it is desirable to place the place of gluing under the press.

When repairing cuts there is one nuance- it is better to seal large cuts with an overlap, and as a patch, of course, in extreme cases, you can use a piece of a bag from a tent - it is usually made from the same material.

Frame repair

There is always a possibility breakage of frame sections. The easiest thing to do in this case is to replace the damaged part with a spare one. If only the tube from the repair kit is at hand, then you need to shape the edges of the broken knee in order to pull the tube over them. Tape, adhesive tape or a strip of the same fabric for patches is glued on the sides. On top of all this, a repair tube is pulled tightly. If even this tube is not there, then you can try to build it from improvised materials (can or beer can, sticks or pegs).

What should be in a repair kit?

Usually, complete with a new tent, they immediately sell a ready-made repair kit with everything that can come in handy. According to the rules, it should include: a repair tube, a small amount of self-adhesive patches or a few pieces of fabric, as well as a tube of glue. It is better to repair ordinary fabric ones using glue, especially if it is wet, dirty and damp around (self-adhesive ones behave very capriciously in such conditions).


If something is missing in the kit, then it is better to take care of it right away and buy the missing one. It happens that such sets are sold separately in tourist shops or you can assemble them yourself.

The only difficulty may arise with repair tubes, since it is difficult to find on sale separately the one that would fit you in size. Then it makes sense to purchase a spare section as a whole, and it is much easier to change it.

The task of any tent is to effectively protect the interior from cold, wind, sun and precipitation. Even a slight damage to the canvas can lead to a decrease in the protective properties of hiking equipment. However, any defect can be repaired without much difficulty at home. Read our article on how to properly seal a tent, what materials you need to use for this and what the principle of work is.

What are tents made of?

The question of how to seal a tourist tent arises by itself when one day a cut or damage of a different nature is found on the tourist equipment. In this case, most tourists are in a hurry to hand over the tent for repairs as soon as possible, not even realizing that it can be repaired at home without any problems. However, for this you will have to know some theory, namely, what material modern tents are made of.

For the manufacture of tourist tents use the following materials:

  • based polyester fibers- lavsan, polyester;
  • based on polyamide fibers - nylon, capron.

All of the above synthetic fabrics have good elasticity and strength, are resistant to abrasion, but are quite vulnerable to cuts and punctures. Also, fire carries a great danger for kapron. Even a small ember, flying out from the fire, burns through your favorite product in a matter of seconds, making its further operation almost impossible.

Types of damage

Even intentionally damaging a tent can be very difficult, but almost anything can happen in the forest. The most common reasons that lead to a violation of the tightness of the tent:

  • thermal damage - burning the tent with coals from a fire or a cigarette;
  • wear - long-term use, inaccurate operation;
  • mechanical damage - tears, cuts, punctures.

Each type of damage has its own repair technique, because they are very different from each other. However, minor "injuries" can be special efforts eliminate directly in nature.

Quick repair in the forest

Interested in how to quickly seal a tourist tent while camping? Most experienced tourists will advise using reinforced tape. Even a small piece of this material is enough to repair the damage right on the trip and continue to enjoy your vacation.

If you didn’t have tape with you, then you can use glue and a small piece of any fabric. All that is required of you is to cut off a suitable piece of material, and then glue it at the site of damage. After that, it remains only to carry out better repairs at home.

Choosing a patch adhesive

Another important condition that cannot be neglected is the choice of a high-quality adhesive. To repair the tent with your own hands, you will need to choose a good glue, the composition of which should have a number of advantages:

  • the ability to withstand the effects of precipitation and washing;
  • colorless, lack of smell and traces;
  • dense structure.

Also, the choice of adhesive should be based on the type of material to be worked on. For example, for synthetic tents, the composition of the Moment Crystal substance is best suited.

Materials and tools

Any work cannot be carried out without special materials and tools, and repairing a tent in this case is no exception. To seal a tent made of polyester or other synthetic material, you will definitely need everything from this list:

  • polyurethane adhesive;
  • patch fabric;
  • thread and needle;
  • scissors.

This is just the most necessary set tools and materials. If desired, this list can be supplemented with something. In this case, try to choose only quality tools so that the work goes quickly and without complications.

Repair cuts on the bottom of the tent

Have you torn or cut the awning of the tent? Do not rush to hand over tourist equipment for repair, since all the necessary work can be done without much difficulty at home. In order to seal the bottom of the tent, you must follow a certain algorithm of actions, which will be described below.

  1. We wipe the "wounded" surface from water and dirt. If you decide to repair the tent at home, then do not be lazy and wipe it with cologne or alcohol to properly degrease it.
  2. Cut out the patch to the required size. The edges should be 1-2 centimeters larger than the resulting cut. The corners must be rounded off with scissors, since they are the ones that most often begin to ride up.
  3. Apply required amount glue (you can find out from the instructions) on the surface of the patch and the tent itself. Here it is very important to arrange the tourist tool in a convenient way.
  4. We press the glued surface with a heavy object. Most adhesive manufacturers claim that the pressing force at the time of repair plays a much greater role. important role than duration.
  5. We wait about 15-20 minutes for the glue to grab properly. However, you should not immediately climb into the repaired tent after this. It is better to let it stand for several days, and only then use it.

If there is a large cut, you can try to sew up the tent. However, for this you need to have at least minimal knowledge in this area. The stitches should be frequent and even, and the thread should be very strong. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it would be better to hand over the tent for repair.

Repairing a worn surface

After several years of active use of the tent, the material may begin to pass water without any visible damage. There is only one reason for this - the polymer water-repellent layer has worn out, and now it is not possible to use camping equipment during rain. How, in this case, to seal the awning of the tent, or is it still worth throwing it away and buying a new one?

To eliminate such a problem, it will be enough to buy any impregnation for an awning, for example, British-made Granger's. Water-repellent material is restored easily and quickly at home according to the following algorithm.

  1. We remove the tent canvas from the frame and clean it from contamination with water.
  2. We lay out the fabric on the floor so that it is convenient to work with it.
  3. We impregnate the tent with a sponge or spray.
  4. Dry the material thoroughly in expanded form.

It is worth noting that such treatment should be carried out every 1-2 years, without waiting for the tent to wear out. You should also apply the impregnation strictly according to the instructions, using special protective equipment.

Repair of a raincoat fabric tent

To seal a raincoat fabric tent, you must have the same tools as in all previous cases, adding only a few cotton swabs to this list. It is worthwhile to pre-treat the surface of the tent with water and any degreasing agent, and then leave the tent indoors to dry. It is desirable that there is a fan heater or a heating radiator nearby.

After a few hours, apply polyurethane adhesive to the damaged surface. To make the layer lay evenly, use cotton swabs for this. Moreover, processing should be carried out on both surfaces to be glued, carefully lubricating the fabric along the edges. During gluing, it is necessary to maintain a technological pause, gently and accurately pressing the surfaces to each other. It is necessary to make maximum efforts, since the strength of the fabric connection depends on this.

Repair of a tent with silicone impregnation

Most often, tents with an outer and inner layer of silicone impregnation are damaged in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe seams, so we will consider this particular repair method. If your awning is torn in another place, then repairs must be carried out in the same way as in the previous two cases.

  1. We lay the canvas with the seams out and treat the surface with water.
  2. We disinfect the seams and let the awning dry in a warm room.
  3. Apply silicone adhesive in a thin layer with a brush.
  4. We glue the surfaces and leave them to dry for 24 hours.

Be sure to dust the seams with talcum powder before rolling up the tent. It is also recommended to process fresh air in warm weather as the silicone adhesive can be very toxic. If you have a respirator, then you can spend repair work in a well ventilated area.

How not to repair

Now you know well how to seal a tent at home. However, so that you do not make common mistakes in the process, let's look at the two most "harmful" repair methods that should not be resorted to even if the leak is temporarily fixed.

Never sew the edges of the tent with a hem. This method will not save the tent from leaking, but most of the awning will be damaged by needle punctures. It sounds quite simple, but many people neglect this rule and instead of making quality repairs, they only make things worse.

It is also strongly discouraged to seal any damage with "silver" tape. The effect of such a patch will be temporary, since the adhesive tape is unlikely to last more than two days, but it will be extremely difficult to remove the remaining adhesive from the surface. Sometimes this adhesive comes into contact with a moisture-resistant coating, after which it is completely absorbed into the fabric. In this case, only one thing remains - the complete replacement of fragments of the damaged fabric with a new fabric.

Is it worth it to give the tent to the workshop?

Now it's time to talk about whether it is worth giving the tent to the workshop to glue it, because careless handling of the awning fabric during the repair can completely render the tent unusable. This is especially true in the case of large damage. Therefore, do not completely neglect the opportunity to contact the workshop. In such establishments, a specialist will not only be able to conduct a complete inspection of the entire surface of the tent, but will also give the owner of the tent all the necessary recommendations to avoid damage in the future.

A tent repairman will be able to carry out the gluing procedure much better than an ordinary owner at home. The cost of repairs may vary depending on the region, but it rarely exceeds 700-800 rubles. Sometimes you will have to pay 1000 rubles for repairs, but this is only if the nature of the damage is very complex or the degree of deterioration of the fabric is high.

We hope that now you better understand how you can glue a tent and how to do it right at home. No one is safe from damage to tourist equipment, so every owner of a tent should be able to repair it if necessary. If you are not confident in your abilities or do not have enough time, then you can safely give the awning for repair, but be prepared to part with a certain amount of money. In other cases, it is still worth gluing yourself, since there is nothing complicated in this.