How to process a log house after grinding - means of protecting a wooden house. Processing of a modern log house made of rounded logs

A rounded log, as a building material, has a lot of advantages, but it is not without some disadvantages. Knowing about them and understanding what kind of wood processing needs to be done, it is possible to achieve the fact that the log house can stand safe and sound for several hundred years.

Factors from which you need to protect the log

The natural origin of the log and the method of processing its surface formed the following disadvantages:

The chemical industry has already responded to all these challenges by developing special products for processing logs. By choosing the necessary moisture-proof, fire-retardant and bioprotective compounds and having maintained the algorithm for processing a log house or each log, all the above risks can be reduced to a minimum.

The use of universal means that can protect against several potential dangers at once is not encouraged by professionals. Like everything universal, such formulations have minimum performance indicators in solving each highly specialized task.

Rules for processing walls made of rounded logs with protective compounds

Before the protective agents are applied to the surface of the logs, it is necessary to wait until the natural moisture is completely removed from the wood. Dried wood better perceives protective natural or chemical agents, allowing you to achieve greater efficiency from their application.

If the house is newly assembled, then the surface of the walls does not need to be sanded before applying protective equipment. If it is necessary to process the walls that have already stood for some time, then it will be necessary to remove the roughness on the surface of the logs and traces of mold, rotting or dirt by grinding. Then the ends are treated with a steam-generating antiseptic and oil paint or slaked lime mixed with manganese solution.

Funds are applied to a rounded log in the following sequence:

Antiseptic.
Moisture-proof composition.
Fire retardant.

This sequence was not chosen by chance. Mold and moisture can come from the inside of the wood, therefore, the deepest possible impregnation is needed special means to create a barrier. The fire most often starts from contact with the outer part of the log, so it is important to protect the surface here.

Other compounds that can be used to process walls from a log

Many specialists in modern housing construction have doubts about decorating (and protecting) a rounded log with paint. It would be unreasonable to hide the natural beauty of wood texture under a plastic film.

Therefore, for those who want to keep the smoothness and perfection of the treated surface of the logs, varnishes or glazing compositions are intended. Varnish (especially if it is frost-resistant) can also be considered protection, because it is a barrier against ultraviolet radiation and pollution.

Sometimes, after treatment with an antiseptic, moisture protection and fire retardant, a layer of preservative is also applied. It is designed to prolong the duration of these protective measures for as long as possible.

The treated house will last for several centuries

If you want to live in a house that for a long time will keep appearance and functionality, then the builders who handle the log properly should be consulted. The Eco-Tech digging pays serious attention to the issue of treating walls with protective compounds.

When building a house from cylindering, all logs must pass necessary processing protective compounds.

It is troublesome to handle the logs yourself, besides, in addition to skills, you need special brushes, spatulas and spray guns and knowledge of the algorithm for applying funds. It would be wiser to order the construction of a house with the obligatory processing of logs.

The ends are the most vulnerable places of the logs, since the wood fibers remain completely open and are more negatively affected by weather factors than other areas. The processes of moistening and rapid evaporation of moisture lead to the formation of cracks at the ends, as a result, the logs can crack, which is very bad for the strength wooden structure... To prevent the development of negative processes, the treatment of the ends of logs from a rounded log with special antiseptic agents will help. If you carry out protective treatment, the wood dries evenly, which has a positive effect on the appearance of the logs and the frame as a whole.

The need to process the ends becomes obvious if you look at an untreated log that has been lying on the street for several years, the ends of which have lost their natural color and darkened, covered with cracks, fungus and mold appeared on them.

This happens because the open ends actively absorb moisture, which then quickly evaporates, and the loose wood structure becomes a refuge for microorganisms and insects.

Moisture evaporates through the end and side surfaces of the logs at different rates. Evaporation of moisture through the ends occurs much faster, which leads to the formation of cracks and deformation of the crowns.

Painting the ends of the log house promotes uniform drying of the logs, since the rate of evaporation through the painted surface slows down, and, accordingly, the process of cracking stops.

The first processing of the ends must be carried out immediately after construction log house... But since in the first years after construction there is an active process of shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to treat the ends with a means that does not interfere with the natural shrinkage processes occurring in the wood.

Must have the following characteristics:

do not interfere with the evaporation of moisture from the logs through the ends along the longitudinal fibers;
do not extinguish the processes of moisture removal along transverse fibers;
do not impede the removal of moisture from the surface.
protect the tree from ultraviolet radiation;
prevent decay processes.

Lime is the traditional end treatment. It is often used for these purposes even today. Lime is a natural antiseptic that protects wood from rotting and UV rays. However, the duration of this product is very short, since the first rain will completely wash away the lime, and the ends will remain unprotected.

Knowing this, many owners wooden houses used for processing the ends of PVA glue or acrylic varnish. But the effectiveness of these funds is also questionable, since they form a film on the surface that prevents moisture evaporation and interferes with the full air exchange of wood.

To ensure their effective protection? Currently, Russian and foreign manufacturers a lot of impregnations are produced for processing the ends. Among domestic antiseptics, three are recognized as the best:

Biotor.

The product has good penetrating power. The antiseptic is absorbed into the wood to a depth of several centimeters, forming on the surface protective layerair permeable and water repellent. The coating helps to remove excess moisture from wood, prevents the development of putrefactive processes, reduces the depth and number of end cracks. The antiseptic does not lose its protective properties for several years.

The product does not contain solvents and does not emit odor, tolerates frost well and has fire retardant properties. For ease of application and control of the treated areas, the antiseptic slightly changes the color of the tree.

The tool protects the ends from biological damage by microorganisms and insects, prevents the formation of fungus and mold and prevents decay.

The antiseptic creates elastic at the ends of the logs protective filmthat does not allow moisture to pass inside, which prevents the accumulation of excess moisture in the wood fibers. At the same time, the coating is vapor permeable, so it does not interfere with the air exchange processes in the wood.

This tool does not affect the aesthetic characteristics of the log house in any way, since the antiseptic retains the natural color and texture of the wood.

Biotor

Has the same characteristics as the above products. The impregnation protects the ends of logs and beams, creating a waterproof transparent coating on the surface that prevents rotting and cracking of the ends, and also reduces existing cracks. The elastic film also helps to reduce the linear deformation of the wood that occurs during shrinkage.

To provide a wooden house or bathhouse with good and durable protection, it is necessary to adhere to a certain order of work. Before treating the ends with an antiseptic, it is necessary to perform a number of mandatory operations.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Log trimming. This operation consists in cutting off the protruding parts of the logs. The size of the logs is not regulated during the construction of a house made of scb. After construction, the length of the logs in the intersections is rarely the same, and the ends, as a rule, are also not perfectly flat. The formation of a neat and even vertical plane is done after construction. The protruding ends are cut off with an electric or chainsaw.
Next, the ends of the log house are polished. By means of grinding, the surface is prepared for antiseptic treatment. After grinding, the absorbency of the wood increases, the ends absorb the antiseptic better and deeper, which ultimately will increase the period of action of the protective treatment.

At the first stage, the surface is roughly treated with a grinder with a large abrasive. Then the ends are ground with an emery nozzle of a finer fraction. Processing must be carried out until a layer of undamaged and clean wood appears.

Can only be produced in dry weather. It is possible to process only completely dried logs, the moisture of which does not exceed 20%. When sanding damp wood, fibers are formed, which do not allow to make the surface smooth and even.

Protective treatment of the ends with an antiseptic. The ends are processed with a wide brush at least three times. The impregnation is applied in a generous layer. After the first layer has completely dried (about a day), the second layer is applied, and then after 24 hours the third layer.
Sealant treatment. This operation is performed after antiseptic treatment to create a durable moisture-repellent coating on the ends, preventing excessive moisture of the wood. For these purposes, it is recommended to use special acrylic sealants.

Processing of ends after shrinkage

After the initial shrinkage of the log house, about 12 months after construction, the ends are painted with a product that creates a strong protective film on the surface. It can be either drying oil or paint containing oil or wax.

Antiseptic treatment is necessary in any case, even if it is assumed in the future

Preferring to everything wooden house building, the owner should not forget that wood is subject to all kinds of destructive actions both from nature - fungus, mold, and the actions of biological species - beetles, moths, etc. Applying protection chemical properties and special purpose, you can achieve an increase in the service life and operation wooden frame baths or residential buildings. It is impossible to do without such an important action as treating logs with an antiseptic, below will be given recommendations on some of their types.

The importance of staged processing

In the free sale there are compositions for several purposes. They can be good, but as practice shows, mixing, the components cannot create a sufficient effect to protect the wood. This can be facilitated by many factors, both weather and chemical.

For example, the sun can make one of the components active and at the same time weaken the action of another. Frost, on the other hand, will slow down all the active ingredients. And if the work on the coating was done superficially or incorrectly, you should not expect protection from him.

Main steps

First, the processing of logs begins with a cleaning stage:

It is better to do this after the impregnation is finished. Then, not only heating, but also steam is welcomed.

You need to use brushes and hard brushes for work. Movements should not be rushed. Time for absorption and drying of the layers is given at least a day. Thus, the question of how to process a log for a log house is being resolved.

Also, wood can be covered with compounds long before it is assembled, but in this case, storage must be at a height, otherwise the washed out compounds will not last long if the logs are not covered with something.

A new word - protection against aging

More recently, the manufacturer suggested new variant protection of decorative wood - from aging. Thus, the rounded log, and not only it, had a chance to stand in beautiful form longer than expected.

These funds have earned approval among the owners of private houses, and it is not difficult to choose, guided by the table, the right one for a specific processing. They are not devoid of other qualities:

Minimum consumption. Of course, it will not be possible to save money if the dose prescribed by the annotation is halved - this rejects the idea of \u200b\u200bimpregnation completely, but the indicated amount is more than enough for the allocated area.
All compounds have a high penetrating power into the structure of the tree, regardless of what quality it is - porous, smooth, etc.
Does not seal the log's natural breathing passages. By the way, you need to take into account that the ends of the logs are not covered with any compounds - this is natural channelsand they must be clean.
Harmless to humans and pets.
The release form allows you to correctly dose and use the formulations without attracting other containers for this.
Many of them are made with the addition of wax and oils, which allows not only impregnating the wood, but also polishing it.

It also becomes clear that if the composition has such a quality as anti-aging, then its appearance is provided for at least 15 years. Processing a log house from a rounded log requires this, because a beautiful appearance should please its owners for as long as possible.

Bath - a special room for impregnation

If the master's bath is also made of beautiful or wild logs, then it needs protection no less. The difficulty of this lies only in the fact that this is such a room where heavy chemicals cannot be used.

Only natural ingredients or those recommended by the manufacturer will do. There are many of them today, but two of them are worth noting:

Senezh. Such a composition is labeled as intended exclusively for baths and saunas. This does not prevent its use for other premises, but only creates a kind of advertising - if it can be used even in baths, then it is also suitable for living quarters. When choosing Senezh for a bath, you need to take into account that there are different types for different protection.
Aquatex. The name itself is related to water, which means that it will be correct to use it for a bath. In addition, such compositions can have a beneficial effect on the external data of wood - in some variants, aquatex decorates wood for valuable species.

This is far from complete list presented products on the chemical products market in relation to wood, but popular. Using these chemicals, the owner of a wooden dwelling or a bathhouse, decorative or not, is guaranteed to receive all kinds of protection for his brainchild. And How important condition without harm to yourself and others. Good luck with your choice!

Is it necessary to protect the bath with an antiseptic?
Wood is one of the most common materials used in the construction of baths. However, under the influence of negative external factors, it not only loses its original appearance, but is also affected by fungi and various woody insects. Favorable conditions for the growth of fungus create high humidity, condensation, temperature drops.
Treatment of the bath with an antiseptic is an indispensable condition for its durability. Many residents of wooden houses or bathhouse owners are faced with the problem of how to properly protect the tree from which they are made with antiseptics.
To do this, you must read the instructions written on the packaging of these products. In addition, sellers in stores will always help you and tell you what purpose this or that antiseptic is needed for.
To begin with, one must understand that some products are suitable for processing outside, on the street, where there is exposure to the sun, rain, wind, dust, birds. And others - for processing inside, where the walls are exposed to hot or cold water... Constant humidity and high temperatures quickly destroy wood.

Log baths are always natural and beautiful, aesthetically pleasing and environmentally friendly, besides warm. For their construction, of course, you need logs, which must be able to properly handle so that your bath will stand as long as possible. Our article will tell you how to process the logs of the bath.

Subject the prepared wood to two obligatory operations: debarking and sharpening. Debarking is the removal of bark from a log; it is usually done without any mechanized tool, manually, but only if the amount of work is small. Just peel off the top dark layer of bark until you reach light wood. When you debark, you will notice that there are not very large, but noticeable areas of bast left on the log, or the so-called "underbark" (a fresh layer of tree bark, which is separated from the trunk itself). When this layer dries, it darkens, and the tree usually becomes variegated in color, as is typical for unplaned logs. If, during debarking, the fibrous composition (fibrous structure) of the tree is not damaged, but the bast is subject to rotting, it is because of this that the log must necessarily go to the jail.
Use an electric plane to remove the underbore (about 0.5-1 cm). Guide the tool along the length of the log. Try to remove an even layer the first time, otherwise the wood will have technical creases. This will not affect the quality of the building material, but over time it will manifest itself in the unaesthetic appearance of the logs - the creases will darken, even if you cover them with an antiseptic and special impregnation. The result of correctly performed actions will be a beautiful, natural golden shade of a log, completely free of bast.

Dry the logs. This can be done in natural conditions (but taking into account the climatic conditions of the country - as a rule, few people decide to do this) or use heat chambers where the tree is kept for up to 5 days. An unfinished tree will crack in length over time, so do not neglect this method of protecting your future bath.

Wood, especially processed wood, is susceptible to the action of molds, insects (for example, bark beetles), as well as the action of various natural factors. You have the right to decide what life span to assign to your bath, treating logs with chemical protective equipment... Use modern antiseptics, insect repellents and wood-staining fungi (in the event that you are going to paint the bath).

Certainly traditional technology manual felling has established itself with the best side: in almost any settlement you can find wooden houses that are fifty, seventy, or even a hundred years old. But please note that these perfectly preserved buildings were not erected by modern cutters, but by old masters - completely different people of a different mentality from a completely different time. Nobody knows how long a house made by a team of modern craftsmen-shabashniks will last; how its walls will look in three to five years - no one can predict either.

Turning to the brigade of craftsmen, be sure to carefully consider those log cabins on which the brigade is currently working and turn your

close attention to the following:

gaps between the crowns; cleanliness of processing cups and inter-wedding grooves; absence of a large spread in the diameters of the logs of one felling; the number of potentially problematic logs in the collected log cabins (crooked, significant radial cracks); the attitude of the cutters to their product (the abundance of dirt on the logs is not just a consequence of inaccuracy, it is evidence that the workers will easily assemble your frame from half-rotten, crooked logs).

Modern technologies, as a result of their implementation, have a significant weakening of the dependence of the quality of the final result on the skill of the workers. In the case of mechanized processing, the quality depends more on the smooth running of production and the technological capabilities of the equipment.

Therefore, an individual developer, turning to a woodworking workshop, should first of all pay attention to:

availability of mechanization during the entire cycle of work; reviews of already completed orders from previous clients; availability and availability of sorted raw materials base; the timing of the manufacture of log cabins (a long production time should definitely alert the customer, because it is a consequence of obvious or hidden problems in technological process); technological capabilities of the equipment - ask, for example, is it possible with this equipment to round logs along the generatrix of a cone ("like a carrot"); age and technical condition production base (old and worn out machine tools are unlikely to lead to a high-quality result).

Timber harvesting methods for building a house or bath.

When harvesting wood, the trunk of a sawn tree is cut into equal pieces of approximately 6 meters in length. The thickest log, the butt, is called the "first cut". The next section of the trunk is the second cut. Etc. It is noteworthy that the closer the cut is to the top of the trunk, the more the taper of the log is observed. The first cut is practically a cylinder.
The wood structure is heterogeneous along the trunk radius. The densest layer is the outer outer layer 1-2 cm thick, located directly under the bark. If this layer is damaged, when external environment begins to contact the surface of the inner layers of wood, the log becomes susceptible to decay and subsequent destruction.

There are differences in wood different breeds... So, spruce wood is richly and evenly saturated with resin from the very early age wood; pine wood is sufficiently saturated with resin only in mature age... Moreover, mainly the outer layers are saturated. Therefore, when using small diameter logs (up to 26 cm), it is more reasonable to use spruce, as it is more durable, because pine at the age when the first cut does not exceed 26 cm in diameter is not yet sufficiently impregnated with resins and, accordingly, less durable.

On the other hand, the abundant resin saturation of mature pine wood can be of poor service in rooms such as saunas or baths. From heating and high humidity wood begins to "cry", losing resinous substances and staining the surface of the log. In the case of using pine wood for hot visits, it is considered mandatory. inner lining clapboard, for spruce log cabins this operation is redundant.

One of the main disadvantages of rounded logs is precisely the short service life due to susceptibility to decay: the removed dense layer exposes the inner surface of the log, which is easily subject to destructive processes. However, when using logs of the first cut, this accusation has no grounds: the original log is an almost ideal cylinder, and peeling off a layer of bark and a few millimeters of the undercorn layer, the cylinder machine does not transform the log into a "short-lived beautiful toy".

Chopped or rounded house - which is better and why?

To illustrate the traditional process, we use photographs that were kindly allowed to be taken by a team of wood bath cutters on the jobsite.

The opponent of the classical technology is the mechanized processing workshop. The self-made cylindering machine allows you to process logs up to 10 meters long and up to 60 cm in diameter. Casing "for carrots" is possible.

Manual felling is cheaper, so a manual felling is more profitable than a log cabin made of rounded logs
In our specific case, a team of craftsmen estimates their work at 5000 rubles per cubic meter of processed wood. Log buildings from the mechanized woodworking workshop will cost the buyer 5500 rubles per cubic meter plus free shipping within a radius of 50 km from the workshop.

The team of craftsmen consists of 8 people: 2 cutters clean the log from bark, 2 planers cylinder the log with electric planers, 2 cups cut down the cups, 2 auxiliary workers in the hold. Such a team adds an average of 2-4 logs to the blockhouse per work shift. A blockhouse of 12 crowns of a five-wall bath will be ready no earlier than a month.

In a mechanized workshop, a team of 4 people will assemble such a blockhouse in less than a week.

Whether your lost time is worth an illusory gain of 5% of the final cost - you decide for yourself.

With traditional felling, manually adjusting each log will ultimately result in a warmer log.

Perhaps this position is true, but only in the case when a house or a bathhouse is being cut down for themselves. A team of custom-made craftsmen is forced to use every log that has been prepared, as a result, crooked, inconsistency and other defective logs fall into the frame.

A curved log laid in a frame leads to deformation of the entire wall, in addition, its behavior in the future, when dried logs lose 5-8% in diameter, is absolutely unpredictable: huge cracks can form, an initially curved log is likely to bend even more strongly and deforms the entire frame.

The inconsistency does not allow you to accurately and equally cut grooves and cups. The ideal cup is cut into half the diameter of the log to be laid. And what kind of ideal cup can we talk about if a log with a diameter of 40 cm is placed on a log with a diameter of 20 centimeters? Indeed, in this case, the "ideal cup" will simply cut the lower crown in half.

And in general, what kind of accuracy are we talking about, if you can easily stick your finger into the holes between the crowns? No matter how much a happy developer who has bought such a traditional log house cheaply, pushes a heater into it, the wind will still blow through the walls of such a log house.

In the workshop of mechanized processing, the listed problems simply do not arise:

There is no confusion, because logs are initially sorted by diameter, in the ordered blockhouse made of 28 cm logs exactly 28 cm billets are placed - loading a forty-centimeter log into the machine to get a 28-centimeter billet is not profitable for the manufacturer himself. Curved logs are initially rejected - they simply cannot be rounded: beating of such a workpiece will break the machine. The grooves between the joints are also selected on the machine, their depth is calculated based on the diameter of the logs. Therefore, there are simply no hesitations in this parameter in the log cabins made of rounded logs. And if there is - this marriage is clearly striking even an inexperienced buyer.

Features in the use of a log house during construction.

It is customary to assemble a blockhouse from winter cutting logs that have not been dried. In the process of wood drying, the log loses 5-5% of its diameter. Uneven drying results in radial cracks, often splitting the log in half. Classical technology in no way protects the log house from such destruction.

The figure shows how radial cracks from uneven wood shrinkage appear on the logs of the assembled frame already during the control assembly.

To protect the log from radial splitting from uneven shrinkage, a special compensation groove is cut in the rounded logs. Cut it from the side of the log opposite the cup to the depth of the radius.

The expansion groove should in no case be visible from the street and in contact with the external environment - usually the groove surface is covered with jaws of the inter-crown groove.

Although the expansion groove cannot resist the radial cracking of the logs, it reliably protects the log from splitting in half.

Another, most often recalled sin of log cabins made of rounded logs, is the destruction in the process of cylindering of a dense subcrustal layer, resistant to rotting and infections with mold and fungus.

But, as already mentioned above, these accusations make sense only in relation to logs from young pines of small (up to 24..26 cm) diameter: large diameter logs are carefully sorted, besides, the resin content in them is more than enough to resist any infection ...

Moreover, the woodworking equipment of a modern mechanized workshop allows rounding the logs "for carrots", i.e. maintain the taper of the original workpiece. This technological complication satisfies the needs of the most fastidious customer and allows the construction of log cabins of both small and very large diameters, guaranteeing their long service, high assembly quality that does not change over time and protection of wood from disease-causing infections.

All photos from the article

During operation, any wooden house must without consequences withstand the effects of a number of climatic factors, but subject to it reliable protection... Impregnation of the walls of the log house with an antiseptic is an excellent way to provide it, protecting it from decay, and the wood will become unattractive for pests.

Do the logs need additional protection?

When choosing a log for a log house, you need to think in advance about its durability.

The fact is that different ways treatments strongly affect the resistance of wood to rotting:

rounded logs are especially susceptible to moisture in comparison with other types of round timber, their natural protection is practically nullified during processing... The fact is that during calibration, not only the bark is removed from the trunk, but also a thick layer of dense wood;

Note! Sometimes when processing on lateral surface even the core of the barrel comes out. In this case, the log has practically no natural protection, so impregnation is simply necessary, and as deep as possible.

but only the bark is deprived, the protective layer of very hard wood remains. Impregnation is also needed here, but the durability of a frame made of such material will be higher. The only thing that can confuse is the high price of debarked round timber in comparison with rounded;

occupy an intermediate position between debarked and rounded.

Impregnation of wood with antiseptics gives not only protection against decay and insects, but also reveals the texture of the wood. So you can apply a layer of clear varnish on top and the wood surface should look good already.

You can find recommendations not to use impregnation at all under the log house, they say the round timber will be perfectly preserved. But it is still better to process the wood at least in order to preserve its appearance, and the protection will be more reliable.

How to process logs

Selection of special formulations for processing wooden surfaces very wide. For the most part, all popular antiseptics give good protection from moisture and insects, the only thing is not to confuse the means for external treatment and internal treatment. Indoors, compounds are usually used that do not then emit substances harmful to humans.

Internal processing of log cabins

Processing logs with inside it is also necessary, although the operating conditions will be more gentle than outside, but the humidity level can vary over a wide range, and you should not forget about insects.

As for the types of agents used, then such types of solutions can be distinguished as:

car washable - saline solution is an example. This is too much a budget option, it can be recommended only for processing auxiliary buildings and then as a temporary measure;

penetrating - the processing of rounded logs with such a composition guarantees the penetration of the antiseptic to a decent depth (depending on the type of wood, but it will reach a depth of 5-7 mm in most cases). They do not wash out over time, moreover, they allow the wood to breathe;
film-forming - they are used rather for decorating the surface of a tree; liquid does not penetrate deep into the tree. Such compositions are applied after impregnation with an antiseptic to give the desired shade to the wood.

For the treatment of wooden surfaces inside the house, for example, SenezhAkvadecor can be used. It does not stain the surface of the wood, it is deeply absorbed and does not create an impermeable layer on the surface after drying, so that rotting from the inside does not threaten the logs.

Processing a log house after installation from a log includes impregnation of rafter frames, as well as elements wooden floors... Since they will not be visible, it is advisable to use formulations with a coloring property. This is done so that you can clearly distinguish between treated and unprocessed areas.

Antiseptics can stain wood green tint, but the shade of the surface treated with a flame retardant is reddish. Of course, such compositions are not suitable for treating a floor or ceiling.

Outside processing

Processing a log house from a log with protective compounds from the outside gives much more scope for creativity. At the same time, antiseptics can be used both as a prophylactic agent and for the preservation of existing defects.

Note! Treatment with a potent composition will freeze the development of rot in wood, but there is a limit to everything. If the log is severely affected, then no amount of impregnation will help.

With external processing, you will have to solve several problems:

carefully caulk the cracks and cracks in the logs;
processing of the ends of the logs is also performed (a separate composition is used);
only after that you can proceed to sanding the wall and applying an antiseptic.

Wide and deep cracks in the logs are far from uncommon, because of them moisture and insects can easily reach the especially vulnerable central part of the round timber.

Fortunately, crack sealing can be done by hand, for this you will need:

clean the crack from dust and dirt;
push the sealing material inside (there are special cords for sale synthetic materials). You can also use ordinary natural fabric;

then fill the rest of the crack with a sealant, it is quite elastic, so that when the house settles it will still provide reliable connection edges.

The question of how to process the ends of the logs is especially important because it is through the ends that an accelerated loss of moisture occurs by the log. This is what causes cracks. In addition, it is easier for moisture and insects to penetrate through the ends.

Note! For processing the end of the logs are used special formulationsthat slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Usually the problem of how to process log cuts is solved even at the stage of harvesting round timber, but it is better to insure yourself and process them yourself again.

To do this, you can use both folk and purchased remedies:

the simplest recipe can be considered the application of paraffin, this "chemical dead" is guaranteed not to let moisture inside;

you can also use purchased compositions, the same "Senezh TOP" does not contain substances harmful to humans, and the treatment of logs with an antiseptic from the ends normalizes the shrinkage of the log in the transverse and longitudinal directions.

Does a chopped bath need processing

If there are no special problems with the question of how to process a log house from a log outside, then in the case of wooden bath it is necessary to take into account the specifics of her work. Experts are nevertheless inclined to believe that impregnation with an antiseptic from the inside is not necessary.

In this case, it is desirable as building material use debarked or planed logs with a sufficiently high natural protection (meaning the content of resinous substances). You just need to take into account that the use of tree species with a high resin content is unacceptable, due to the high temperature the walls will be constantly sticky.

In principle, the instruction allows the processing of a chopped bath from the inside, but with a number of reservations:

it is forbidden to use compounds that, under the influence of high temperature, release harmful substances (that is, the lion's share of antiseptics immediately disappears);
the wood must remain breathable.

If the problem of how to process the logs inside the bath is perplexing, then you can try to limit yourself only to external processing. If inside the wood darkens a little after a while, then you can simply grind the logs with a petal circle, a pleasant shade for several years natural wood guaranteed.

Note! Various folk remediese.g. based on beeswax, oil, resin, etc. are not suitable for internal processing baths just because of their low resistance to high temperatures.

If the bathhouse is built from inexpensive calibrated round timber, then external processing is required. Considering that harmful substances have an unpleasant property to seep through wood and get into the air (especially at high temperatures), the product should be 100% harmless.

In principle, you can buy logs already impregnated with a protective composition, but the question of how better to process a rounded log in a bath is still better to decide for yourself. The fact is that with factory impregnation, they do not particularly think about the environmental friendliness of the antiseptic.

Summarizing

Processing round timber is a good way to increase its durability, and its appearance will remain for a long time. In this case, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances, namely: select individual compositions for the internal and exterior decoration, correctly process the ends of the logs and seal cracks. Subject to these conditions, antiseptic treatment becomes absolutely harmless to humans and prolongs the life of a chopped house.

The video in this article describes the external processing of a log house.