Insulation of wooden houses lined with bricks. How to insulate a log house with a brick facade

Building a house out of one brick in our climate is not the best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which makes the walls thick. But using it as a finishing material is already more economically justified: facing the house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help to save on heating, and the appearance will give the structure "capital". If the walls are kicked out of a foam block or other light and warm building blocks, then such a finish will also be windproof. Brick houses are also lined with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, fungus and expensive repairs with a complete bulkhead finish.

Which brick to use

Facing brick is produced using different technologies, due to which it has different characteristics and prices:

Ceramic. Of all the finishing materials, it is the most inexpensive. The disadvantages include high hygroscopicity: 6-15% depending on technology and batch. The water trapped in the pores expands during freezing, causing destruction, the brick begins to crumble. Even a special finishing, in which in factories the bed (the part that turns out to be outside) is specially protected. Exit - after laying, cover the wall with a hydrophobic compound. Only those that do not form a vapor-tight film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks 25-75 cycles (how many times it tolerates defrosting / freezing without deterioration in quality). The higher this indicator, the higher the price. This is explained by high production costs.
Hyper-pressed or non-fired. This type of facing brick is obtained not by firing, but by pressing. Its composition is no longer clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The ability to use pigments allows a wide range of colors to be obtained. The front surface is often non-linear, imitating a wild stone. It looks decorative. But such nonlinearity threatens delamination: an uneven surface, water flows more abundantly into the pores, freezes in frosts. It is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. Frost resistance of high-quality non-fired bricks is declared by manufacturers from 75 to 150 cycles.
Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it a very high strength and density. The denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for operation, but when laying it leads to difficulties: so that the wall does not "float", you need to put it on a hard, low-plastic solution, and it is more difficult to work with it. Another disadvantage limiting the wide distribution of material that is excellent in terms of characteristics: it is expensive compared to previous materials: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Clinker frost resistance - from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is an expensive pleasure, but the most attractive in appearance.
Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most "rapidly deteriorating" facing brick: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: the average weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so big. If we consider that heating costs will also be higher, then the benefit is dubious. It is advisable to cover the house with silicate bricks in warm regions. In the northern ones it is completely unprofitable.
Facing a house made of silicate bricks is the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of decoration.

Choosing a type of brick is not all. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. Solid finishing brick is rarely used: it costs more, weighs more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they are large and small. With equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar, and increase the strength of the masonry.

If they decided to cover the house with hyper-pressed bricks, it should be produced no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and it can be safely transported and loaded without any fear.

Please note that during storage, no water should enter the brick packaging. This is especially true if you are going to leave it for the winter.

How to overlay a wooden house (log, log, frame) with brick

Most of the difficulties arise when decorating a wooden house with bricks: materials have very different characteristics, it is not easy to make a good bunch of them. The whole secret here is the need for a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation layer, which is usually stuffed onto a wooden wall. A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. A prerequisite is that it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Izospan AS, Tyvek HouseRap, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions the room will have normal humidity and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and the wooden wall.

Instead of wind insulation, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With sufficient thickness of the wooden walls, the thermal insulation layer is simply absent, the wind insulation and ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the basement - and to the top. To ensure the air flow in the first row, ventilation ducts are made through which air enters. Outlets are arranged under the roof in the cornice part. The area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilation holes is 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 of the wall. The airflow in the bottom row can be done in several ways:

put a brick with through holes on its side;
partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, place a ruler, then remove it);
make two or three holes and install the grates.

About what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of foam or polystyrene foam is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the fact that the wood will rot, and the humidity in the premises will be higher than normal.

Another important point: bricking a wooden house can be done only after the main shrinkage of the log house has passed. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: in them the main processes have passed.

Pros and cons of a brick-lined wooden house

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely controversial matter. Of the positive aspects, one can single out:

There are enough negative points:

In general, it is not an ideal solution. If the house is still being planned, think a few times. Maybe it's better to build and then brick them. These materials are much better matched and complement each other's qualities. It is worth covering a wooden house with bricks if the house is old, the wood has darkened, it is necessary to give it a more attractive look.

Wall cladding technology

First, the wood is treated with a protective impregnation for outdoor use. Then the crate is made of planed timber (also impregnated). The dimensions of the timber depend on the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Usually, for Central Russia, the thickness of basalt wool is needed on the order of 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But specifically, everything is considered depending on the thickness of the wall (from a bar or log) and the brick chosen for facing.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the crate is packed taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. This will force the material to fit. It will fit snugly against the crate, which minimizes the formation of cold bridges.

An example of a brick cladding of a wall of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must be vapor-permeable, and if the vapor-permeability is one-sided, then moisture removal is necessary from the room. Fasten the membrane with staple brackets to the crate. Then leave a ventilation gap of at least 60 mm and put a wall of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are several subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually covered with half a brick. Without support, the wall is wobbly, especially in large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be spread over the entire wall surface. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another, or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are going to impose a brick on the house with your own hands, problems may arise with the horizontal and vertical masonry. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

Long pins are horizontally driven in the corners of the house under the roof and above the base. They should protrude from the wall at a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
At one corner, a wire is tied to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry and lowered down, movably fixed on the lower nail.
Its verticality is checked and set with a plumb line, rigidly fixed.
Also, at the same distance, a vertical wire is tied at the other end of the wall.
A horizontal cord is tied between the two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide when laying: it can be moved up as the rows are laid. Only every time it is necessary to check the horizontal position using a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap device. The situation is similar: the outside turns out to be a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. In this case, only wire or sheet metal strips for dressing are attached to the frame posts.

Reinforce or not

In general, the reinforcement makes the wall stronger and more reliable. Therefore, it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the laying, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if the craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then rows with reinforcement should be laid approximately every 5th row. A special mesh with a cell of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm is placed as reinforcement. At the same time, the size of the seam, which, along with reinforcement, should be the same.

Facing the house with brick "live" filmed on video, the technique of laying "under the rod". The seams are beautiful, but water flows into them, which is absorbed by the brick. Therefore, the seams cannot be left in this form. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane with the brick surface. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the "life" of the brick wall cladding will greatly increase. The masonry process itself is demonstrated correctly: the solution is laid neatly, drops that fall on the surface are immediately overwritten.

Facing the house with aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate bricks

The vapor permeability of cellular concrete is also higher than that of bricks. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is a material that better removes fumes. Therefore, in order to ensure a normal indoor climate and a long service life, a ventilation gap is required between the brickwork and the wall and foam blocks.

If you impose a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, gas silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensate will accumulate at the border of two materials. At low temperatures, the frozen moisture will destroy the bubble shell, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly degrading its performance.

Options for cladding an aerated concrete house with bricks and their characteristics

Additional heaters are used very rarely, if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as when facing a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by wind insulation.

The size of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. The number of ties between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross-section is at least 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connection, you can use screw or stainless steel nails with a length of at least 120 mm. They are driven not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45 °. You can use perforated galvanized strips, which are nailed to building blocks on one side, and the other end is fed into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: ties should not be embedded in the masonry joints of the main wall. Only nailed to the face of the blocks.

The best wall cladding made of aerated concrete and aerated concrete - bricks with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag filling house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks spread along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls was increased.

The brick cladding of the house made of cinder block (cinder block) will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The length of the grace period depends on the condition of the material and on the measures taken. On average, he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the cost of an error is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, to carry out waterproofing work. One of which is the external protection of walls from atmospheric precipitation using brick cladding. The brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (only not creating a vapor-impermeable film). The penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations like "Penetron" and analogs. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

On the choice of suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials vary greatly from region to region. To correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, see offers in the region on the network. During the call, you need to get technical data, find out prices. Then compare the characteristics of bricks, compare prices.

Best advice: Don't buy too cheap materials. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely, these are last year's remnants of not the most successful batch. Otherwise, look at the price / performance ratio.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles / piece;
ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles / piece (full-bodied 45-65 rubles / piece);
hyperpressed non-fired - 25-31 rubles / piece;
clinker - 27-40 rubles / piece.

After choosing several possible suppliers, see their product in person. Smooth edges, uniform color, no cracks or any defects are what you should see.

About the size of the party. It is advisable to buy the entire volume of cladding material at once. This will help you save about 10-15%. some suppliers offer large consignments to be brought directly from the factory by dumping norms. It is also cheaper, and additional overload is eliminated, which means less combat.

The advantage of bulk purchasing is that the batch is likely to be one, which guarantees uniformity of color. In any case, brick cladding is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

One of the most common building myths is associated with the natural warmth of wooden houses. In fact, the energy-saving properties of wood, as a rule, are not enough, therefore houses from a bar are insulated, and one of the best ways to protect the insulation is used - brick lining.

Why does a wooden house need brick walls?

The main advertising ploy of companies building houses from a bar is the postulate of "incredibly warm houses, in which ancestors lived for centuries." At the same time, no one mentions that it will be enough warm in such a house only with the constant operation of a Russian stove or other heating system of a commensurate power. Heat engineering of a wooden structure of this type does not stand up to any criticism either according to the SanPiN or SNIP standards, while most of the shortcomings are quite obvious. For example, in a house made of a bar, even factory-made, it is impossible to completely seal the inter-row seals, the only exception is glued sawn timber. And if the house is completely free from blowing, then even the maximum possible thickness of the walls made of timber will not be enough to withstand the coldest five-day period in most regions beyond the latitude of 60 ° and close to it.

But the need for insulation is not the only drawback of houses from a bar. Wood needs constant care, without which the surface of the walls will become extremely unpresentable over time. Due to the mandatory use of impregnations and paints and varnishes, another myth about wooden houses disappears - their ability to self-regulate the humidity of the internal atmosphere. And even in the case of systematic maintenance of the building, it will greatly surrender in aesthetics due to sunlight, wind and rainwater, deep wood restoration will have to be carried out every 7-10 years.

Brick lining is just one of the finishing methods that ensure the safety of the thermal protection belt. Often, the choice in favor of this technology is made only because the view of the brick building appeals to the owner more than others, or such cladding is required for fire safety reasons. Otherwise, the brick lining does not bring significant benefits: it is more expensive, more difficult than many other coatings to install, and requires a capital preparatory base. But the option is interesting at least for its originality: from the outside there is a view of a stone castle, inside it is a natural, living, and most importantly - a warm wooden house.

Building design requirements

Brick cladding is one of the most difficult types of facade finishing. At the same time, even part of its mass cannot be transferred to a wooden house, but not because of exceeding the permissible loads on the frame, but because the outer side of the wooden wall must remain ventilated. Thus, the building requires a sufficiently wide base / plinth overhang to accommodate the cladding and, if necessary, thermal insulation, as well as the possibility of flexible connections.

As for the protrusion of the foundation, it must necessarily have a width of at least 110 mm, provided that facing bricks with a minimum thickness of 65 mm are used and a minimum permissible unventilated gap of 40 mm is provided. The reinforcing frame should be positioned in such a way that the outer rods are located with a protective layer of 50-60 mm. The device of an L-shaped foundation is allowed with a vertical dimension of the visor of at least 250 mm. If the requirements for the foundation were not provided for during the construction of the house, the outer wall of the base is opened with a trench along the perimeter, the cushion is installed, the formwork is installed and reinforced to a width of at least 150 mm and a depth of 500 mm. Reinforcement is reinforced with a mesh of 10 mm ribbed rods with a cell of 200x200 mm. If there is no possibility of rigid attachment to the foundation of the house, you can cast an independent tape with a width of 300 mm and a depth of at least 600 mm, while the reinforcement is performed by a rectangular frame of 12 mm class II reinforcement.

The requirement for flexible connections is to prepare the wall surface. Get rid of the old exterior wall decoration. In a situation where the house has already been used outdoors for more than 10 years, it is recommended to remove the paint and varnish, re-impregnate with a bioprotective agent and apply a coating waterproofing. Additionally, we note the importance of waterproofing between the foundation and the cladding. For these purposes, it is convenient to use aerated concrete blocks, thereby imitating the high basement of stone buildings and providing additional protection for the flange.

Choice of materials

The brick lining of the house is remarkable, first of all, in that it is a box in which another box is placed - the supporting frame of the building. For this reason, even being on different fairly stable foundations, the frame and the finish will perfectly get along with each other. In addition, the size of the indentation of the brick cladding is practically unlimited, respectively, the quality of insulation can be provided with one of the highest.

Of course, getting all the benefits from the brick lining of the house is possible only if it is arranged correctly, which largely depends on the materials chosen:

The foundation is the basis for cladding, the rigidity and strength of the entire facade finish depends on it. Concrete with reduced water absorption should be used, that is, grade W6 or higher.
When waterproofing with raising the basement, it is aerated concrete that should be used, unlike cheaper foam concrete, it has extremely low water absorption and a tendency to capillary suction. If the insulation is arranged with roll materials, it is better to choose a film or membrane.
The choice of brick is completely free, it is only important that the predicted weight of the cladding corresponds to the bearing capacity of the foundation. Typically 88 mm facing bricks are used; porous ceramics and decorative blocks can also be used. In any case, the material should be hollow in order to reduce weight and improve heat saving properties.
For facing masonry, an ordinary solution on a lime-cement binder of a strength grade of 200 or higher will do. It is prepared from a mixture of Portland cement M400 with fluff in equal proportions, using three times as much sifted sand as a filler. It will not be superfluous to use frost-resistant additives and superplasticizers.
The masonry must be reinforced with a belt method, the best material for this is hot-rolled steel wire 4-5 mm. You will also need a plaster mesh to flexibly tie the masonry to the frame. If the cladding is made of PCB, each seam is covered with fiberglass facade mesh to avoid spillage of the solution into the cavity.

The nuances of insulation and protective insulation

The list of materials also had to include glassine, with which the frame is wrapped before the erection of the masonry. However, this issue is worth a separate consideration, because it relates rather to the field of heat engineering.

Such a structure as a blockhouse in a brick shell has its own specificity of heat transfer and moisture accumulation. It is necessary to protect the tree from the accumulation of water in all ways, otherwise its durability is reduced significantly. The main source of moisture is air coming from the building through the cracks between the crowns. Glassine retains this air, but condensation does not fall out, because all surfaces are at a sufficiently high temperature. At the same time, the ability of wood to independently regulate humidity is maintained, the likelihood of moist warm air entering the insulation or air is excluded, and the wall blow-through is guaranteed. The most important condition is to fix it with glue and only to the central part of the timber, leaving small folds between the crowns so that the vapor barrier can “play” as the tree shrinks.

You can insulate a house from a bar with any material with an eye to some of the shortcomings. So, when using mineral wool, it is necessary to protect the insulation from rodents, carefully sealing up all the junctions, and also to beat the material with a windproof membrane from the outside. You can also use boards made of extruded polystyrene foam, foam chips or any other free-flowing filler that is not subject to shrinkage. It is extremely important to pre-calculate the wall cake in the thermal conductivity and moisture accumulation calculator in order to exclude the dew point displacement to the area where moist warm air can be.

Ordering calculation

The good thing about brick lining is that by only slightly adjusting the width of the gap, you can greatly reduce the number of additional ordinary elements or almost completely avoid their manufacture. To do this, you should in advance, knowing the format of the brick used, determine the order of laying. This is done for each wall separately using the simplest technique. As an example, we can take the most complex element of the facade - the section of the wall between the outer and inner corners. Suppose the length of the log wall in this place is 570 cm, and the height to the soffit is 420 cm. In this case, the foundation under the log house has a projection of at least 110 mm.

If clinker bricks of 250x90x65 mm format are chosen for cladding, then 22 whole elements with a seam thickness of 8 mm will be needed to lay the starting row without cutting stones. The most attentive will notice that as a result, the row length turns out to be 32 mm less than necessary, which can be compensated by increasing the gap by 16 mm on one side and decreasing it by the same value on the other. In the second row, the dressing is performed, the pokes of the adjacent walls are taken from the total length of the row 196 mm, taking into account the seams. It will not be possible to lay out this row with whole stones, and the addition will turn out to be too small. In this case, you can make the thickness of the vertical seams in even rows of 11 mm, leaving almost exactly the right size. If the length of the row turns out to be a little longer than necessary, you do not need to cut the extension, just lay a brick with a protrusion of the spoon inside the gap.

Also knowing that the row height is 75 mm, taking into account the seam, you can determine the number of rows of cladding, which in our case will be exactly 56 rows. If this value was not accurate, you can compensate for the discrepancy using aerated concrete blocks. They are easy to cut into a custom size, slightly raise the base and bring the final row exactly close to the soffit. Having counted all the sections of the wall in this way, you can get the number of bricks in pieces, and by adding 4-5% for marriage and battle, you can determine the final order volume.

Facade cladding

It is advisable to lay out the starting row of solid stones on a waterproofing substrate of 3-4 layers of roofing material or 1-2 layers of deaf membrane insulation. The first row sets the dimensions and configuration of the entire cladding, therefore it should be leveled with special care and given sufficient time to set.

All other rows should be started from the corners and aligned with the mooring cord. If, according to the layout scheme, there are extensions, they are placed in the central part of the row in a random place in the areas between the two outer corners or shifted close to the inner one.

When laying the cladding, several points must be considered. The first and most important is to leave gaps for limited air circulation in the row at the height of which the formation of a snow cap is guaranteed. The holes must be protected from rodents and debris, the most accurate way to do this is to cut grooves in the brick with a grinder and insert small fragments of perforated metal mesh into them.

We must not forget about the reinforcement, which is performed in every 4th or 5th row. For this, 2 pieces of wire are used, the length of which is 20-25 cm less than the wall section. The wire is sunk into the seam while the corners are tied with bent anchors. The cover is also attached to the timber with flexible ties, which are well suited for fine plaster steel mesh pieces 15-20 cm wide.

They need to be bent at right angles, with one side nailed to the central part of the timber, and with the other bricked into the joint solution. From this, it is assumed that the installation of insulation and the construction of brickwork are carried out in parallel, which means that the work should be planned for a sufficiently long warm and dry period.

Facing a wooden building with brick is a common occurrence. Brickwork allows you to renovate and give the old house a completely respectable look. However, often at the stage of this event, many do not immediately think about insulation, but during wintering it turns out that the brick wall does not protect the house from the cold. Insulating a brick-lined wooden house is not an easy task. Experts recommend making thermal insulation of the building even at the stage of facing works, but, unfortunately, not everyone listens to their opinion. How to insulate a log house with a brick facade? Let's take a look at this issue.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

Insulate the outside of the brickwork.
Insulate the space between the log wall and the brick wall.
Make thermal insulation inside the house.

The first method is the most acceptable from the point of view of heat preservation and safety of a wooden structure. But at the same time, choosing this option, you will have to sacrifice the aesthetic characteristics of the house, since all the beauty of the brick cladding will be hidden. In addition, it will take a lot of investment in new finishing.

The other two options have significant drawbacks, which we will discuss in more detail.

Can thermal insulation be installed between walls?

Many experts do not recommend filling the space between the walls with any thermal insulation material. And that's why. When facing a residential building or a bath with a brick, a technological gap of about 25 cm must be left. It is necessary for ventilation of a wooden structure. If the brickwork is made close to the wall, then after a certain period of time the tree will begin to rot, mold and fungus will appear on it, and everything will end with rotting wood.

The same can happen if the space is filled with insulation. Some, at their own peril and risk, resort to a similar method of thermal insulation, blowing penoizol into the holes made in the brickwork. The material completely fills empty cavities, depriving the wooden wall of any ventilation. We do not recommend insulating the house in this way, as this can lead to unpleasant, but very predictable consequences.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Internal thermal insulation is also not the best option for both a log house and a log house. Such insulation has several disadvantages:

Moisture and steam generated inside the house do not escape outside, and the effect of a thermos is created in the room.
The dew point moves towards the room, which leads to the formation of condensation on the interior walls.
The house will warm up faster, but also cool down quickly.
The usable area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms decreases.

As you can see, it is highly undesirable to insulate a house made of wood from the inside if it is lined with brick. Moisture will stagnate in the wood, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew, and as a result, wooden structures can rot.

Regardless of what material and method of insulation is chosen, it is necessary to make holes in the cladding through which air will pass and ventilate the walls. In addition, the house must have a good ventilation system.

Materials for external thermal insulation

In this case, the house can be insulated with any materials suitable for.

You can insulate brick walls using:

foam;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam,
thermal panels.

Characteristics of heaters

Very common today. It is an inexpensive material that retains heat well, fits easily, keeps its shape well.
One of the best insulation materials is extruded polystyrene foam. It has minimal water absorption and low thermal conductivity. In addition, EPS is very durable, which makes it often used for thermal insulation of blind areas and foundations.
When insulating a facade with mineral wool, it is necessary to take into account that only stone and basalt wool with a density of at least 80 kg / m3 is suitable for external thermal insulation. Lighter material may lose shape.
Polyurethane foam is excellent for thermal insulation of a brick wall. It has a low density, high thermal insulation characteristics and good adhesion. However, the material is not resistant to UV radiation, therefore, when insulating the facade, immediately after installation it must be covered with finishing.
Thermal panels simultaneously perform the function of both heat insulator and decoration. They consist of several layers of polyurethane foam and EPS, and their front part is made of clinker tiles, ceramics, porcelain stoneware or concrete. They have many advantages, but they are also quite expensive.

External insulation methods

Thermal insulation with polystyrene and expanded polystyrene can be performed in two ways: by laying the tile insulator in the frame cells or by gluing the plates directly to the wall. A detailed algorithm of actions for warming an EPPS house is described in the article. Foam insulation is carried out in a similar way.
is carried out by spraying using professional equipment.
Installation of thermal panels is quite simple. Each element has a groove and spike fastening. First, a starting profile is installed, on which the elements are laid, joining them to each other. After the final installation, the space between the wall and the panels is blown out with foam.
When laying mineral wool, the installation of the battens is mandatory. The material strongly absorbs and accumulates moisture, which is the reason for a decrease in its thermal insulation characteristics.
The frame method of laying allows you to make a ventilation hole between the wall and the insulation, as well as equip a hydro and vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation. Detailed instructions for installing mineral wool can be found in the article.

Internal insulation with warm plaster

Sawdust plaster, which consists of cement, clay, sawdust and paper, is best suited for a wooden house. Air passes through it, which allows the tree to breathe.

The works are carried out in the following sequence.

And although wooden buildings look very beautiful and rich, they also need to be insulated from the outside. This will allow you not only to create reliable protection against moisture, but also from cold. Installation work is not particularly difficult, but if you do not have proper experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Materials

A wide selection of heat-insulating materials allows each owner of a wooden house to choose their ideal option, taking into account the cost and performance.

Stone wool

This material can be cut even with a conventional knife. Since the slabs are lightweight, it is very easy to transport them even by a passenger car.

Stone wool

When laying stone wool, it must be installed in the space between the posts of the lathing, and then lay the vapor barrier material from the inside and a layer of waterproofing outside. But how the insulation of a wooden house takes place outside with mineral wool for siding will help to understand this

Ecowool

This material is characterized by its environmental friendliness. In its manufacture, cellulose fibers were used. Produced in a pressed package. The process of warming with the material in question can occur in several ways:

Styrofoam

This material is considered one of the most inexpensive. It does not absorb moisture, so when installing it, care must be taken to install a moisture-proof membrane. Working with polystyrene, maximum care is required, because it can crumble and break.

Styrofoam

Its sale is carried out in the form of two-component substances. When applied, they foam under the influence of air. The principle of applying this heat insulator is similar to polyurethane foam. With its help, all voids in the wall are filled. Excess material is cut off.

Thus, it is possible to obtain a monolithic layer of insulation, which will not allow heat to escape from the house. Also, polyurethane foam is water-repellent. It is worth paying attention to how it happens

Natural heaters

This category of thermal insulation materials includes slabs of straw and clay, sawdust. They are distinguished by their environmental safety, low cost. Their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber should also be classified as natural insulation.

Sawdust for insulation

The material has excellent antiseptic properties, prevents mold and mildew from forming. It is easy to cut, install and does not cause allergy development. But how it happens, and how to do it correctly, the information on the link will help to understand and understand.

Installation work

The process of installing insulation is different, taking into account which material option was chosen. If the heat insulator is presented in the form of mats, then the installation involves the observance of the following steps:

Treat the surface of the wooden wall with antiseptic compounds. This should be done in two layers, paying special attention to the corners and the bottom crown. The ends of the logs should be processed more carefully, since they are often subject to decay. Carry out such actions in warm weather. After that, you need to wait 1-2 days.
Using the staples, fix the stapler waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating on the walls. Attach the joints of this material with an overlap and glue with mounting tape. Fix a vertical frame made of boards to the film, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the heat insulator. The step of the battens should be 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats.
Mount a heat insulator on the film between the boards, while squeezing it slightly. The final fastening of the material is carried out using anchor nails. If it is required to lay the insulation in several layers, then the next layer must be laid with an offset of the seams. Then the upper layer will overlap the joints of the lower ones.
Fix the waterproof membrane film on top of the heat insulator with brackets. Fasten the joints with an overlap and secure with tape.
On top of the film, make a ventilated frame device. To create it, boards are also used, ensuring the distance between the heat insulator layer and the decorative facade is at least 5 cm.And here is how the floor is insulated from below in a wooden house, and what materials are the best, indicated
Fixing the boards to the lower frame is carried out using self-tapping screws. If the surface of the wall is uneven, then it is worth using perforated hangers for the profile. Thanks to them, it is possible to adjust the distance to the crate. For finishing with metal siding or corrugated board, it is worth using a drywall profile instead of a board.
Fastening of the skin is carried out according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

The video shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

If the house is bricked outside

If a wooden house has a brick cladding, then it is possible to insulate it from the outside using various heat-insulating materials. When choosing a suitable option, it is necessary to focus on the thermal engineering calculation, thanks to which you can understand the effectiveness of a particular heat insulator, as well as its useful thickness.

It is also worth paying attention to what materials are the best.

Styrofoam

This material is most often used when insulating a wooden house with brick cladding. Its main advantage is its low price and excellent thermal insulation qualities. Before installing the styrofoam, the brick wall should be cleaned and leveled. But what is the technology of insulating the facade with foam, and how difficult it is to accomplish, indicated

Polyfoam for insulation

Fastening is carried out using special bolts. They are screwed into the masonry through a heat insulator. Facade plaster is applied on top of the foam.

You may also be interested in information on how insulation occurs in the form

Mineral wool

This insulation material has been in wide demand for many decades. Mineral wool has excellent sound and heat insulation properties, provides decent ventilation and has low flammability. The disadvantages of mineral wool include a decrease in thermal insulation properties over time.

Mineral wool for insulating a brick house outside

Izolon

This modern material allows you to achieve maximum heat savings inside the house. A heat insulator is produced in the form of rolls or a solution. To insulate a wooden house, it is necessary to use a liquid composition. It is pumped into the space between the wall and the brick with special pumps. When using roll material, a number of difficulties arise, therefore it is not used so often.

Isolone application

Isolon is characterized by excellent impact strength, which has a positive effect on its service life. The only drawback of the heat insulator is that it has an unattractive appearance. So you have to take care of additional finishing.

You may also find it useful to know how the

Brick is durable and non-combustible material, it can withstand high loads and is used in the construction of buildings of various storeys. The main disadvantage of such a house is the high thermal conductivity of the walls. The problem can be solved by increasing the thickness of the brickwork or by insulating the building from the outside.

Insulation of brick walls is divided into three types: external, internal and intra-wall. The latter option involves the construction of a building with well masonry and the placement of a heat insulator at the construction stage.

Internal insulation takes away the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe premises, it provokes dampness of the walls and is not effective enough. Its advantage is the ability to complete the work at any convenient time and the low cost of materials. If you have a choice, you should give preference to external thermal insulation.

Among its advantages:

The walls are protected from external influences, so they will last a long time.
Significant reduction in heating costs.
The ability to create the architectural design of the house to your liking.
Lack of moisture, mold and mildew on the surface of the walls.

The main characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For the protection of brick walls to be reliable and durable, the materials used must have characteristics that allow them to withstand precipitation, wind, frost and heat.

Water absorption coefficient is a product characteristic that shows how much moisture it can absorb. It is better to choose a material with a low rate.
The thermal conductivity coefficient is the main criterion in the study of insulation. It shows the amount of heated air lost per hour per square meter. m of material having a thickness of 1 m. This indicator is guided by when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The best products for this criterion are foam and mineral wool.
Flammability - determines how dangerous the material is in a fire. Products are divided into four cash registers according to this characteristic, it is better to give preference to G1, which go out without open fire. Expanded polystyrene boards are susceptible to fire, when using them for cladding, choose with the marking "C", which means self-extinguishing.
Density determines the amount of additional weight per structure - the lower the indicator, the lighter the material.
The sound insulation level indicates the possibilities of reducing the penetrating noise. All popular heat insulators possess this quality to a sufficient extent.
Environmental friendliness - the criterion determines the safety of the insulation for health. For exterior decoration, it is not decisive, but natural materials are preferable to synthetic ones.
The complexity of installation - if the work is done by hand, you must choose a simple and understandable technology for laying thermal insulation.

The list of popular materials for cladding a house outside includes a few products:

styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
warm plaster.

They have a different composition, cost and installation features. Let's consider each material in detail.

Polyfoam - plates made of expanded polystyrene, which are cells with gas. This structure provides a low thermal conductivity of 0.032-0.039, good sound insulation and light weight. The density of the foam is 35-50 kg / m3, the recommended layer thickness is 10 cm. The material is capable of absorbing moisture, therefore it requires waterproofing. The disadvantage of insulation is flammability, vapor permeability and sensitivity to light.

Extruded polystyrene foam - the product has the properties of foam, but in an improved version. The material does not absorb water, it is more durable and easy to process, its thermal conductivity is 0.028-0.032. The cost of extruded polystyrene foam boards is higher than other materials for thermal insulation.

Mineral wool is one of the best insulation materials, it does not burn, it is safe, and has a low density - 35-125 kg / m3. The raw materials for the material are glass, stone and slag. Air voids of 10-15 cm remain between the fibers, due to which the mineral wool has a thermal conductivity of 0.04-0.045, absorbs noise well and passes steam. For effective protection, a layer of 10-15 cm is needed.

The product is produced in the form of rolls, mats and slabs. Basalt wool in the slab version is characterized by resistance to deformation and increased density - 75-150 kg / m3. the material fits easily into the frame and does not cause problems during installation. The only drawback of mineral wool is its high water absorption, which requires mandatory waterproofing. Insulation is affordable, which contributes to its popularity.

Warm plaster is a dry mixture of cement, lime, plasticizers and additives from expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay, perlite. The material is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation - 0.06-0.065, but has many advantages: it does not burn, has vapor permeability, is resistant to moisture and microorganisms, and insulates sound well. The plaster has a significant density of 200-350 kg / m3, therefore it puts additional stress on the foundation. The maximum insulation thickness is 5 cm.

Talking about how to insulate a brick house from the outside, one should not miss the opportunity to finish with thermal panels. This material is characterized by a low thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.025 with a small thickness of 60-100 mm. The basis of the product is polyurethane foam, the decorative part is made of ceramic tiles. The material is resistant to frost and moisture, quickly installed and does not require additional finishing.

Mineral wool thermal insulation technology

Insulation of a brick house is carried out in two ways:

creation of a ventilated facade;
"Wet facade", gluing boards to walls.

Mineral wool is optimal for the first method, which involves the creation of a crate and a multi-layer cake with steam and waterproofing.

A crate made of timber treated with an antiseptic composition or a metal profile is stuffed onto the surface of the walls. The guides are placed with a step less than the width of the insulation by 2 cm. This will allow the material to be laid more tightly.
Mineral wool is placed between the bars and covered with a waterproofing sheet.
The film is attached to the crate with a stapler.
Thin slats are stuffed on top of the moisture protection, which will provide an air gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Siding is attached to the slats.

Basalt wool slabs are strong enough to be mounted without a frame. Correct laying of the insulation begins with screwing on the bottom of a horizontal metal profile, which will keep the material from slipping. Plates are fixed with special glue and dowels with a wide head. Each row starts with an offset. After finishing all facade surfaces, a mesh is laid on the mineral wool and a layer of plaster is applied.

House insulation with polystyrene foam according to the "wet facade" principle

Panels of foam or extruded polystyrene foam are fixed to the wall using a simple technique called "wet façade" due to the presence of processes that require drying.

Preparation of a brick wall is in progress: cleaning from dirt, elimination of defects, priming.
A metal profile is attached at the basement level, which will become a beacon when laying the first row and a drip for moisture.
Glue is dotted on the insulation plates, and they are pressed against the wall.
Additional fastening with dowels is carried out - in the corners and in the center.
Work starts from the bottom of the corner, the rows are stacked with an offset for the stability of the structure.
On top of the finished insulation, a plastic mesh is laid for reinforcement and a thin base layer of plaster is applied.
After the mortar has dried, priming and finishing with decorative plaster are performed.

How to apply warm plaster to the walls?

Working with insulating plaster will take time, especially in the absence of painting skills. To properly prepare the solution, the mixture is diluted according to the instructions.

Brick walls are cleaned, protruding parts are removed. The surface is primed with a penetrating compound.
Plaster mesh and beacons are attached to create a common plane.
The prepared solution is applied to the walls. The thickness of the layer depends on the climatic conditions, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
Various decorative textures can be created on the finished surface.

The considered heaters can be used in any region, the thickness of effective thermal insulation is calculated according to local climatic characteristics.