Parquet polishing - proper care of parquet flooring. Sanding parquet with equipment Sanding old parquet

Directly laying the parquet is just the first step to get a beautiful flooring. To achieve the desired result, you need to whole line work such as surface leveling, sanding and varnishing. All the same activities are carried out in the case of the restoration of the old parquet.

What is the difference between parquet sanding and sanding?

To date, manufacturers have a large selection of modern tools High Quality. But before proceeding with the review of the most popular equipment, it should be clarified how grinding differs from sanding.

Scouring - means manual polishing of parquet with scrapers. Via this device the shavings are removed.

Grinding - is made by special parquet-grinding machines. Depending on the settings and attachments, they sand with different depths and with different surface smoothness.

But even among professional builders, the first stage of parquet processing is usually called scraping, and all subsequent ones are called grinding. But there are no special machines for sanding, just some models of grinders can also perform primary processing.

Parquet sanding technology:

  • The first stage is the primary scraping. grinders drum or tape type, a rough scraping of the surface of the parquet is performed.
  • The second stage is grinding. Belt grinders with finer abrasives are used. For hard-to-reach places, angle grinders are used.
  • The third stage is the final polishing. With the help of surface grinders, three-disk or single-disk, the parquet is given a perfectly flat surface.
  • Fourth stage. Application of varnish and protective gel.

Parquet sanding equipment

Sanders for parquet drum type

This is the most common and versatile tool. They perform scraping and grinding work. The machine has a simple and robust design. It is produced with two types of grinding drums - centrifugal and rolling. Works with consumable abrasive materials of all manufacturers. With a drum sander, surface treatment is carried out taking into account the fibrous structure of the wooden parquet and can be carried out in three directions.

Belt sanders for parquet


They are used for grinding and sanding. large areas, as well as for working with rough surfaces. The design of the machine is provided in such a way that the center of gravity is located low, which creates a snug fit to the treated surface. In turn, this makes it easier to work with it, because no additional effort is required. They come in different capacities, but the higher it is, the more work can be done non-stop.

To increase the specifics of tasks, belt grinders are equipped with abrasive belt speed controllers. It is easily removed independently, and the new one is installed no less securely. Depending on the functions of the abrasive belt (for scraping or for grinding), it has different width and graininess. In some more expensive models automatic centering of the tape is already provided.

Angle grinders


They are designed to treat hard-to-reach places. The working element in the grinder is a grinding disc, which can be flat, disc, cup, polishing, etc. Modern models are equipped with many useful options: maintaining a constant speed, speed control, protected from unintentional activation, “soft start”.

The most popular manufacturers of power tools, whose quality has remained at a high level for many years: Makita, Bosch, Black & Decker, Sparky, Metabo, Atlas Copco.

Disc sanders for parquet


Most often, surface grinders are used during the final grinding of parquet. Three-disk and single-disk surface is treated before tinting and for varnishing parquet.

They are produced in different sizes and with a wide range of nozzles. This is necessary for maximum maneuverability in hard-to-reach parts - near pipes, under batteries, etc. They are a good alternative to angle grinders.

The most popular brands of disc machines: Janser, Lagler, Bosch, Clarke, Atlas Copco.

Vibratory grinders


They are of the flat grinding type. But thanks to their versatility, they can be used not only for fine grinding, but also for rough primary processing. They work on the principle of reciprocating motion. The greater the amplitude of oscillation of the rectangular sole, the higher the speed of work. But the higher the speed, the lower the quality, so for fine finish a low range of motion is selected.

As Supplies, rectangular abrasive sheets of different grits, coated meshes and sanding cloths are used.

Random Orbital Sanders


They combine the working principle of a grinding wheel and a vibrating machine. The result is a high performance tool. Thanks to the combination of movement and vibration, an excellent quality of parquet processing is obtained.

Productivity is regulated by diameter of a vibrating circle. But, the smaller it is, the higher the quality of processing, and vice versa. The choice of speed is also important, a higher destination for rough grinding. When working with parquet, it is necessary to choose a low speed. The varnish with which it is coated is very sensitive to heat and friction.

Leading positions among manufacturers of eccentric and vibratory machines are occupied by such companies as Bosch, DeWALT, Black & Decker, Metabo, Stomer.

Many grinders have a dust bag, which can significantly reduce the amount of dust during operation, but do not completely eliminate its occurrence.

The most popular cars have been described above. But this is not all that parquet is polished with. In addition to them, there are several more types: delta grinder, straight grinder, pneumatic grinder, etc. They are universal and are used not only for processing wood, but also when working with concrete or metal surfaces.

How to sand parquet with your own hands

Do-it-yourself sanding of parquet is carried out in several stages. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Preparing parquet for sanding

Before starting work, all furniture is taken out of the room. Now you can take a closer look parquet flooring completely, revealing all the shortcomings. For a high-quality result, it is required to tap each plank of the parquet. If the sound turned out to be deaf, it means that it peeled off, and a void formed under it. It is easy to fix this, just drill a thin hole in it, through building syringe download glue for parquet, press down on top with a load and allow to dry.

The surface must be thoroughly washed, remove all screws, nails. Otherwise, you can quickly damage the abrasive skin.

Tools and material for sanding parquet

To sand parquet with your own hands you will need:

  • parquet-grinding machine with the possibility of scraping. The tool is expensive, but available if you rent it. They process the main area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe parquet;
  • manual belt or angle grinder for processing hard-to-reach places;
  • manual cycle. Useful for scraping parquet in places that are very difficult to access;
  • several strips of sandpaper. The lower the number, the coarser the grit of the skin. To work with parquet, you will need No. 120,80,60,40;
  • putty on wood, for covering cracks in the parquet;
  • high quality parquet varnish;
  • vacuum cleaner for cleaning and small improvised tools (screwdriver, scissors, rags, etc.)

Having prepared the room, material and tools, you can proceed directly to polishing the parquet.

Scraping parquet

For scraping, you will need a belt-type grinder with abrasive sandpaper No. 40. With this machine, the main area of ​​the parquet is processed with a distance of about 10 cm from the wall. Hand-held belt or disc parquet sanders are used along the walls.

Tip: Do not use hand sanders to process the entire floor area. This will lead to the formation of pits and other irregularities.

The purpose of this stage of work is to remove the old lacquer coating and level the parquet surface. Grinding is done first along the room, and then across. It is especially important to carefully monitor the condition of the abrasive skin. Heavily worn, she will burn the parquet, leaving on it dark spots. To check the cycled floor, a three-meter rule is used. Irregularities under it should not exceed 2 mm.

After rough sanding, scratches and notches always remain on the floor, which is the norm. They are removed by the following polishing with skins No. 60, and then No. 80. Works are also carried out - up and down. The exception is when the parquet is laid parallel to the walls. In this case, it is polished only along the laying line. And when laying herringbone - diagonally. At this stage, the unevenness of the parquet should not exceed 1 mm.

Parquet putty

When the parquet is sanded with sandpaper No. 80, it is puttied. Putty for these works is selected according to the texture and color similar to wood. Acrylic putty is often used on water based or mix the sawdust left during sanding with parquet varnish. Using a metal spatula, the gaps between the planks are filled with the mixture.

Finishing parquet sanding

After the putty has hardened, the parquet is sanded with finishing abrasive paper No. 120. You will need to relieve the pressure of the grinder on the floor using a special adjusting screw, which is equipped with all modern models.

The direction of grinding is exactly the same as in the previous stages of work. As a result, the parquet should be perfectly smooth, which is quite easy to check by running your hand over it. Now it is important to very carefully remove all the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

On average, all these parquet polishing processes take about 6 hours.

Sanded parquet varnishing

Before starting varnishing, all windows in the room are closed to avoid drafts. Optimum temperature for work is 22-24 degrees.

Parquet is varnished in several stages:

  • a primer is applied as the first layer;
  • then, three layers of varnish are applied in turn. Between each layer, grinding is carried out with a R-220 diamond mesh;
  • as a topcoat, a glossy gel is used to fix the varnish.


How to sand parquet correctly, in more detail, is shown in the video.

How to choose parquet varnish

Varnishes for parquet are divided according to the degree of gloss and wear resistance.

Haze depends on the amount of passive filler in the composition of the varnish. By changing the proportions, glossy, semi-matte and matte varnishes are made. But this filler settles at the bottom, so the varnish is thoroughly mixed before application.

The wear resistance of the varnish is selected based on the functionality of the room in which the parquet is laid. Varnishes with low or medium resistance are suitable for the home, for more crowded places they are selected with increased resistance to abrasion.

Types of varnishes:

  • Polyurethane varnishes. They are also made on the basis of solvents, acrylic or urethane. Their advantages include high elasticity, heat resistance, good adhesive qualities and UV resistance. They perfectly cope with a high load, are not afraid of household chemicals and high humidity. The downside is that the polyurethane varnish sticks the planks together. And if moisture gets in during varnishing, it begins to foam.

  • Waterborne varnishes. This is a fairly new product. It hardens after the evaporation of water, forming a film. They practically do not emit harmful chemicals, and are not inferior in strength to other types of varnishes. Suitable only for rooms with a constant positive temperature. The most wear-resistant is acrylic-polyurethane varnish, and acrylic varnish will need to be updated periodically.

  • Lacquers based on oil resins. It is urethane alkyd and alkyd varnishes made from linseed or wood oil, which allows them to penetrate deeply into the wood. They do not stick parquet planks, and the coating is non-slip. But they are toxic and take a long time to dry.
  • Acid curing varnishes. They are made on the basis of directly varnish and hardener. It has the highest wear-resistant qualities, undemanding to temperature and humidity. The disadvantages are a strong smell and strong bonding of the planks.

Sanding parquet without dust

The only option is to update old parquet- this is to scrape, cover the cracks, sand and varnish. But many owners of parquet floors are in no hurry to return it to its former beauty. And the reason for this is the prospect of dusty and noisy work. Indeed, wood dust, which is formed when removing the old coating, penetrates everywhere and eats into furniture and curtains.

But you can do all this work without dust. Majority modern models parquet grinders are equipped with dust collectors. If we add to this the absence of drafts in the room, then the dust will practically not scatter. For additional protection, a static film is used, which covers the walls of the room in which the work is carried out.

Grinders with powerful dust collectors, on which high-quality filters are installed, are very expensive and are available only professional builders. If you have confidence in your abilities, then you can contact one of the companies and rent a tool. It is especially important to use such machines for processing parquet made of precious woods - wenge or walnut. This is due to the fact that the dust of these wood species has coloring elements. Therefore, when it settles on furniture or walls, it can stain them, but it will be almost impossible to clean them off.

Of course, the grinder will not be able to completely collect dust during operation, but still most of it settles in the dust collectors. This means that they are great for restoring old parquet in already finished rooms.

Qualitative wooden parquet- Extremely durable finish. But even in spite of gentle operating conditions and careful care, sooner or later its surface ages. The lacquer becomes dark or dull, scratches and cracks appear, the parquet darkens and, what is most offensive, is uneven, i.e. spots. And about the condition of the parquet after long-term operation in extreme conditions such as walking in street shoes, furniture on wheels, heavy cabinets and bedside tables without coasters, frequent flooding and much more, and there is no need to say. As a result, deep potholes and grooves from the wheels, peeled or cut varnish in places, large gaps between the planks. What to do? Change flooring? Not worth it. Most of the problems can be solved by sanding the parquet, updating it by removing the top layer and sanding and varnishing the surface. This type of work is quite complicated, very time-consuming and responsible, but it is quite possible to master it on your own if you have patience. A great help is also the variety of special equipment that greatly simplifies the task.

Before you finally decide that you need parquet sanding and all the work that it includes will be enough, you need to check the condition of your flooring. There are times when redecorating a wooden floor is useless.

It does not make sense to sand the parquet if:

  • The parquet has dried out so much that the gaps between the planks are 5 mm. The entire coating is a grid of dried planks.
  • The parquet swelled due to getting wet. This problem cannot be solved.
  • The most passable place is too worn out. For example, in the area of ​​the threshold of the room in the zone of passage of a person there is always a height difference between the planks of the parquet. So, if less than 5 mm is left from the top of the worn planks to the connecting tongue, grinding is meaningless.
  • There are visible deep bumps or potholes.
  • The wooden floor is constantly getting wet from the fumes from below. In this case, it is necessary to completely remove the coating, waterproof the base, and only then lay a new one.
  • Part of the wood has been worn away by a beetle grinder.
  • There was mold or rot in the room.

The problems listed above are related to various factors: initially incorrect laying, under-dried wood, non-compliance with the technology of laying a wooden floor and too difficult operating conditions. In all other cases, it will be quite enough to qualitatively remove the top lacquered layer of the parquet, and the renewed parquet will shine with fresh wood.

Tools and materials for sanding parquet without dust

Parquet sanding can be done both manually and by machine. The latter, although more expensive, is less laborious and faster.

If finances are not enough even to simply rent equipment, then you can cycle the parquet manual cycle. This tool is a metal plate, one edge of which is bent and sharpened so that it is convenient for them to remove the varnish layer, and the rest of the plate is enclosed in a wooden handle. It is very difficult and difficult to work with a manual cycle, the hand gets tired quickly, and working in the “on all fours” position leads to back pain. However, it can be used to treat the entire surface, even in particularly hard-to-reach places. When sanding parquet with a scraper, a fairly large layer of wood is removed, but there is not a lot of dust, as fine as during machine work.

In addition to the manual cycle, you can use sandpaper. It is fixed to the sole of the shoe and then the parquet is rubbed with the feet. This method is also difficult to call easy.

That is why grinders for the mechanized performance of such work are becoming increasingly popular.

Equipment and tools

Sanding old parquet consists of several stages, and for each of them a different type of equipment is used.

Drum parquet sander used for deep scraping of any wooden floors. These machines are in demand on the territory of the Russian Federation, they are reliable, durable and relatively cheap. The most common grinder of this type is the CO-206 unit, which is produced at the Odessa plant in Ukraine. It is equipped with a convenient drum 200 mm wide and a pump that collects the dust generated during the grinding process in a special dust bag. The weak point of the CO-206 parquet grinder is the rubber glued to the drum. It can be damaged if the abrasive (sandpaper) is poorly clamped or the machine runs over a nail or self-tapping screw sticking out of the floor. The total cost of such a grinder is about 1300 - 1700 USD.

Surface grinders There are single and triple discs. They are used for fine sanding of parquet and solid board floors, for sanding before tinting or tinting, for interlayer sanding when varnishing the surface, as well as during tinting or for applying oil. The cost of such a machine is simply fantastic, so they buy it not for personal use, but for high-quality professional work. Surface grinders are in demand not only due to their reliability, but also their ease of use, versatility and the ability to carry out almost jewelry work with parquet. The most common is the German Lagler Trio grinder, the cost of which is 8500 - 10000 USD.

"Boot" used for sanding hard-to-reach places under radiators, in corners and near edges. All machines of this type are unified, abrasive wheels with Velcro with a diameter of 150 mm are used, and they are also equipped with a dust collector. The most common models are SO-401 (Odessa, Ukraine), Lagler Flip and Lagler Elan (Germany).

Grinders are expensive, they are purchased only by companies involved in parquet work or equipment rental. It is the latter service that must be used by those who want to do the work themselves. If you order a grinding service from companies specializing in this, you should know that the prices for polishing parquet in different organizations depend on the equipment used. The more expensive and better it is, the more expensive the work.

industrial vacuum cleaner necessary to remove all dust from the surface and cracks of the parquet floor. If this is not done, the opening with varnish will be of poor quality.

In addition to all of the above, you will need scissors for cutting sandpaper, tools and keys to fix the abrasive on the drum.

Expendable materials

In the process of polishing parquet, you will need materials, the amount of which depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the complexity of the work.

  1. Sandpaper. At different stages of grinding, paper of various grain sizes No. 40, 60, 80, 100 and 120 is used. At least one sample is used on a 20 m2 floor, which is enough to fill the machine. For example, for a drum-type parquet grinder, No. 40 paper is needed, 2000 mm long and 200 mm wide.

  1. putty for sealing cracks (approximately 5 kg). It is selected to match the tone of the wood or prepared independently from the liquid component and wood dust, which remains after grinding.
  2. varnish or oil. Consumption of parquet varnish is approximately 5 kg per 10 m2. The most common are Forbo, Resident, LOBA, Flow and others.
  3. rollers and brushes for applying varnish.
  4. Rubber spatulas for applying putty.

It is better to purchase consumables with a margin, since it is impossible to calculate the exact consumption.

Sanding parquet: cost of work and equipment rental

For comparison, consider two options: if you order a grinding service and if you do everything yourself.

If you ask yourself how much parquet polishing costs, then you should immediately pay attention to the list of works provided. Repair organizations always indicate what is included in a particular cost. Let's take an example.

Parquet sanding services:

  • Work package 1: scraping with a drum-type machine, puttying and varnishing in 3 layers will cost 10 - 11 USD. per m2.
  • Work package 2: sanding with a drum machine, grinding with a surface grinder, puttying cracks and opening with varnish in 3 layers - 12 - 13 c.u. per m2.
  • Separately, grinding with a drum-type machine - 2.5 - 3.5 c.u. per m2.
  • Separately, grinding with a Trio surface grinder - 2.5 - 3.5 c.u. m2.
  • Separately puttying cracks - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per m2.
  • Separate matting 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. m2.
  • Application of an additional layer of varnish - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per layer.
  • Floor covering with gel - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per layer.

Let's calculate how much such a list of works for 20 m2 will cost: sanding with a drum machine, grinding with a surface grinder, filling cracks, matting, additionally 2 layers of gel and 4 layers of varnish. We will count at the minimum rate.

2.5x20 + 2.5x20 + 1.25x20 + 1.25x20 + 1.25x2x20 + 1.25x4x20 = 150 + 50+ 100 = 300 c.u.

In total, parquet grinding services will cost us 300 USD for 20 m2.

Now let's calculate how much it will cost us do-it-yourself parquet sanding:

  • Rent of a parquet grinder - 18 - 20 c.u. per day.
  • Surface grinder rental - 37.5 - 40 c.u. per day.
  • Rent "boot" - 10 - 12 USD per day.
  • Sandpaper No. 24, 30, 36, 40 - 3.25 - 3.5 c.u. per linear m.
  • Sandpaper #60, 80, 100 - $2.875 per m.
  • Sandpaper No. 120, 150 - 2.75 c.u. per m.
  • Putty for parquet - 60 c.u. for 5 l.
  • Lacquer for parquet - 150 - 300 c.u. for 10 l. Consumption 80 - 100 g per m2.
  • Toning composition for parquet - 50 c.u. for 1 liter Consumption 1 liter up to 40 m2.
  • Consumables (rollers, brushes, etc.) - 60 - 80 USD

We count: 18+38+10+3.25x2+2.87x2+2.75x2+60+150+50+60 = $403.

As you can see, even if you can complete the work in one day, i.e. you won’t have to overpay for rent, anyway, taking into account the materials, you will spend more than when ordering a grinding service from professionals.

Do-it-yourself parquet grinding - stages of work

Polishing old parquet is a responsible and time-consuming task, it is better to entrust it to professionals. But if you want to do everything yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists, then you will need exact instructions on what to do. In addition, even if you decide to order grinding in a repair organization, knowing the sequence of work and the nuances, you can control the quality of performance.

Preparatory work before grinding

The very first task that needs to be done is to check the quality of the parquet on the subject, and whether it makes sense to grind it. What criteria was described at the beginning of the article.

Before starting work, all the furniture is taken out of the room, the skirting boards are removed, and the floor is checked to see if there are torn-off dies or not. Quite often, wooden skirting boards in old houses are nailed to the floor tightly. In order not to damage the coating, they can be left. We glue the torn off planks of parquet back. If it is necessary to repair parquet - eliminate squeaks, dips, etc., we carry out repair work.

We inspect the entire surface of the parquet floor for protruding nails or self-tapping screws. They must be sunk into the wood by at least 2 - 3 mm so that they do not damage the abrasive. Finishing touch- Wash and vacuum the floor.

Only after all preparatory work You can buy materials and rent equipment. The best time to book a rental is early in the morning. Please note that the weight of the grinders is very large (about 70 kg), for work you will need at least two such heavy machines. Don't forget to stock up on a mask-gown, earplugs or earmuffs, and a respirator. Despite the presence of a dust bag, it will not be possible to do absolutely without dust. It will be less than without it, but it will be small and very dangerous, as it can easily enter the respiratory tract.

Deep sanding parquet

Before starting work, open all windows and close the doors. On the drum parquet grinder SO-206 fill with coarse sandpaper.

No. 16 is used to remove old drying oil or varnish from the floor.

No. 24 - 40 is used for removing paint and top layer of wood.

No. 60 - universal paper for rough grinding.

Most often, paper No. 40 is taken to begin with. First, we make a passage with the machine along the diagonal of the room, from one corner to another. Then we move the machine to the wall and start the passages along the wall and parallel to it. The width of the drum is 200 mm, so each subsequent pass must be offset by 100 mm.

Important! The movements of the parquet sander should be along the wood fibers. Only on U-turns is allowed a short movement across. For artistic parquet, the movements should be circular in a twisting spiral.

At this stage, the angles hard-to-reach places are not touched. It is better to start from the far wall and move towards the walkable area. Dust from the dust collector can be poured into a plastic or plastic bag.

Important! It is necessary to raise and lower the parquet sander in motion so that a depression does not form on the floor.

Be sure to monitor how hard the drum presses on the floor surface. This can be adjusted with a special screw. If the machine removes too little wood, and the engine speed is normal, it is necessary to increase the pressure of the drum on the floor. If on the contrary - removes too much - reduce.

The abrasive should be changed as needed.

Sanding hard-to-reach places under radiators, corners and edges

After rough sanding, varnish spots should remain in recesses, in hard-to-reach places, near pipes and edges. We carry out grinding of the unfinished surface angle grinder ("boot"). We fill the skin No. 40 or No. 60.

Spots of varnish in the middle of the room are removed in a circular motion, moving from the edges of the stain to the center.

In the corners and near the edges, we remove the top layer of wood, moving the machine from the edge of the treated surface to the wall and back, with pendulum movements.

Work on the primary scraping is carried out until the entire surface of the floor and its shade are leveled.

Now comes to work surface grinder, a good option is a machine with three TRIO disks. With it, it is necessary to remove all the bumps, burrs, scratches and ruts that remain after deep sanding.

Sandpaper is put on the discs in the following sequence: first No. 40, then No. 60, 80 and final - 100. With a surface grinder, we pass along the floor surface only 3-4 times (each time with a different sandpaper).

Each time we make two passes - in one direction and in the opposite direction. Discs of the same grain size change as they wear.

After processing a flat surface, we proceed to grinding hard-to-reach places with the same angle grinder. Only one disc can be loaded into it. First grit #40, then 60 and 100. Sanding until the surface is smooth.

Puttying parquet cracks

Before filling cracks in parquet, it is necessary to vacuum it thoroughly. Despite the dust collector, there will still be wood dust. It must be removed.

For puttying parquet, you can use ready-made putty in the color of wood, or you can knead the liquid component with wood dust that remains after sanding and sanding, and prepare the putty yourself. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions on the package.

The entire floor surface putty the resulting composition. To do this, we use a rubber putty spatula. The solution should be distributed evenly, filling all the gaps, both between the planks and on their surface.

When the putty dries a little, i.e. will not be handled, but will still be soft, you need to quickly complete imitation of joints. This is done with an awl under a metal ruler. Curved joints can be made with the edge of the ruler by lightly pressing on it. The period of gelatinization of putty depends on its composition. For example, for alkyd and uralkyd materials, hardening begins literally minutes after application, so you have to hurry.

Fine sanding of parquet

To remove excess putty from the floor surface, it is again polished with a surface grinder with sandpaper No. 100. This work can be performed only after the complete drying of the putty composition. When finishing grinding, the pressure of the drum is reduced, the machine is moved only in the direction of the wood fibers. Fine grinding is carried out until the surface is perfectly smooth, you can check this by running your hand over the floor surface.

Opening parquet with varnish or oil

Before applying varnish to the parquet, it must be thoroughly vacuumed, otherwise the varnish will lie unevenly. And under a layer of varnish, accumulations of dust or dirt will be noticeable.

Coating parquet with varnish is the most important task in grinding work. If you do it poorly, you will have to scrape and grind again.

The varnish is applied in 3 - 4 layer, each of them dries for about 4 hours, but if you wait longer, it's okay. Under parquet varnish, you can apply a primer or tinting composition. The varnish is applied with a roller immediately to the entire surface of the floor and is quickly distributed over it, as it dries very quickly. If it freezes unevenly, you will have to redo everything.

After applying the first layer of varnish and its complete drying, it is necessary to sand the surface again, removing the raised wood pile. We do this with a surface grinder or angle grinder with sandpaper No. 100 or No. 120. Once again we vacuum the floor, walls and ceiling - suddenly fine dust is electrified and sticks to them.

Now apply the remaining layers of varnish. When the last layer is dry, vacuum the floor surface again.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the grinders are very noisy, you can only work during the day, with the permission of the neighbors, when the children are awake and always wear headphones. In addition, the power and starting current of such machines are very high. Quite often there are situations when the old wiring is not able to ensure the full operation of the grinder and you have to use a generator or a powerful stabilizer. The severity and large vibrations of such machines do not allow them to be used by fragile women. The limited term of equipment rental can make you rush and make mistakes. Consider all this, it may be better to turn to specialists.

Sanding parquet: video - instruction

Particularly parquet. Although the parquet is durable and unpretentious, periodically refreshing its surface does not hurt.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding tools

Hand grinding tools and equipment

The machine method of grinding is as fast as possible, efficient, but too expensive. Therefore, if it is bad with funds for hiring equipment, you can solve the issue of floor scraping with a manual scraper.

On the wooden handle This tool has a metal plate, sharpened on one side and serrated on the other. It is so convenient to cut off a layer of old varnish, but the hand gets tired quickly, and the short handle of the cycle does not allow you to take a comfortable position for work. Therefore, grinding is best done in an automated way, using a manual cycle only in those corners that are difficult to process with a grinder.

Among the advantages of a manual cycler is the absence of dust and the ability to remove a good layer of wood from the surface. Another way without special costs ottsiklevat floor - emery cloth. It is carefully cut to the size of the foot and attached to the shoe sole, which rubs the floor. This is also a rather laborious, but quite acceptable way.

Grinding machines - types, tasks

Full-fledged scraping is carried out in several stages, and each of them requires a certain type of fixtures and equipment. Consider them:

  • PShMBT - drum type parquet grinder - is used for deep processing of any type of wooden surfaces. On the territory of the former USSR, such machines are produced in the Russian Federation and in Ukraine. The device is equipped with a drum and a pump that collects all the waste generated during operation into a special collection bag. Domestic grinders have a significant drawback - the presence of rubber, which is glued to the drum part. If the abrasive is weakly clamped or the machine hits a nail that is sharpening from the floor, the rubber is the weakest point, which is damaged in the first place. The cost of equipment - from 1300 dollars and more.
  • PShM - surface grinders equipped with 1 or 3 discs. The Germans are considered the leaders in the production of such machines, their Lagler Trio costs about 10 thousand dollars, and such expenses justify themselves. PShM is used for grinding floors from massive boards, preparing the floor for tinting or toning, interlayer polishing for varnishing, for applying oil. Typically, such equipment is purchased for the professional activities of construction and repair companies. Imported PSHM are able to demonstrate filigree work in the process.
  • A boot is an additional tool for grinding hard-to-reach places. Boot-shaped nozzle allows you to scrape wooden surface in the corners, under the batteries, along the edges around the perimeter. The unification of such machines allows you to use parts from different manufacturers and change abrasive nozzles. Boots are equipped with bags to collect dust and waste. Such machines are produced both on the territory of the former USSR and in Germany.
  • An industrial dust collector is a heavy-duty equipment that works on the principle of a vacuum cleaner. The surface after scraping is covered with a layer of dust, which must be removed by industrial machines, otherwise varnishing will become impossible. A layer of lacquer or other coloring agent will not be able to spread evenly over uncleaned wood.
List of additional tools:
  • scissors for cutting emery cloth and keys for fixing abrasive materials on the drum;
  • sandpaper (used as a consumable. Depending on the scraping stage, you will need a canvas of varying degrees of grain size - from 60 to 120.);
  • putty (selected in color close to wood, or it can be made from a liquid component and sawdust the smallest fraction, waste from scraping.);
  • varnish (oil) at the rate of 5 kg per ten square meters. We recommend paying attention to Fobro, Resident, LOBA, Flow and other manufacturers;
  • rollers and brushes for uniform coating of the surface with varnish (oil);
  • spatulas - preferably rubber, for flooring with putty;
The amount of consumables is calculated depending on the size of the room. Experts recommend making a margin of about 10% of the calculated value.

Stages of parquet sanding:

It is quite difficult to sand old parquet by hand, but with the use of modern equipment it is quite a feasible task. Even if you are going to resort to the help of professionals, understanding the order of work will allow you to control the process of their implementation more efficiently.

Sanding preparation

First, it is necessary to assess the scope of work and, most importantly, their feasibility. After all, if the parquet can be characterized by the criteria indicated at the beginning of the article, then it can only be updated if it is completely replaced.

On the preparatory stage the room is freed from furniture, skirting boards. Work is underway to strengthen the dies, eliminate the creak, and replace individual components. The floor must be checked for protruding nails or fasteners. The protruding elements should be sunk into the surface by 2-3 millimeters. The floor is vacuumed before the main work.

Equipment selection

Depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the depth of grinding is selected Sander. Please note that the weight of the equipment will be at least 70 kg. For work you need: a special suit, earplugs and a respirator.

Scraping parquet

Produced at closed doors and open windows. Abrasive paper is put on the drum part, taking into account what type of paper is needed:

  • No. 16 - cleans the floor from paint or varnish;
  • No. 24-40 - to remove paint and the surface of the tree;
  • No. 60 - for deep grinding.
We describe other important points:
  • Directions for grinding - from the far right corner to the lower left, and across, further manipulations are performed in a spiral from the center.
  • Attention! The sander should only be manipulated along the grain of the wood. Exceptions can be only for short turns of the device.
  • The beginning of work should be done from the far wall, moving towards the most passable areas. From dust collectors, waste can be moved into a PE bag.
  • Attention! It is possible to raise and lower the PSHM only when it is on, otherwise there will be a height difference on the floor.
  • It is important to keep the pressure on the surface uniform so that the layer removed from the parquet is the same over the entire area. As the abrasive wears, it should be removed and a fresh blade installed.
  • After 1 sanding, it is necessary to use a “boot” and emery cloth # 40-60 to polish nooks and unsanded “spots”.
  • Sanding works are carried out until the floor surface is in perfect condition, until it becomes uniform in level and color.
  • Surface grinder performs final fine work - 3-4 times -,during which eliminate bumps, ruts and scratched places with abrasive from No. 60 to 100.
  • The cycled parquet is vacuumed industrially. Then the cracks are treated with putty using a rubber spatula, if necessary.
  • The last step in the main work will be sanding over the putty with sandpaper No. 100 to perfect smoothness.
  • Finishing the floor, which is once again cleaned of dust and dirt after grinding, is carried out using oil or varnish applied in 3-4 layers with a drying period of 4 hours after each application. You may need another sanding step after the first coat.
You can watch the whole process in this video:


Having learned useful information and received comprehensive instructions about correct execution polishing a portrait, you can perform these works without resorting to the services of construction and repair organizations. This will cut your costs and allow you to sand your floor in a do-it-yourself manner.

To bring your parquet flooring into proper shape, you can not do without such work as high-quality floor grinding. The work is quite complicated, and therefore you should use the recommendations below.

If you notice that the floor covering has changed its original appearance, it is necessary to sand the parquet. Unfortunately, there are several cases when even this work will not be able to return your floor to its former beauty - you will have to lay a new coating..

When grinding won't help:

  • the material has dried out so much that the gaps between the parquets are about 0.5 cm;
  • due to wetting, the parquet swelled strongly;
  • any area in the room has been wiped too dry (near the threshold);
  • if there are visible potholes and too large irregularities;
  • the tree often gets wet due to fumes (in this case, you will have to remove the floor completely, lay waterproofing and re-install it);
  • the parquet was attacked by grinder beetles;
  • rot or fungus began to appear in the room.

All these problems, most often, are caused either by improper laying of parquet boards, or by the use of poor (not dried) material. In other cases, it will be enough that you carry out high-quality grinding to restore the appearance.

A non-specialist can carry out grinding, subject to all the rules, but a professional, of course, will cope with this work much faster. But if you currently do not have the financial means to pay for the services of the masters, you can do all the work yourself. The main thing is to follow all the rules and strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to buy or rent everything necessary equipment and tools:


It is very important to prepare the room itself in advance. So, remove all furniture, debris from it, clean the coating from screws or nails. If there are dies staggering due to poor fastening, you need to fix them well, for which it is best to use bituminous mastic or glue. Of course, you need to remove all the skirting boards around the perimeter of the room.

Like any flooring job, floor sanding starts with preparation. existing coverage. If sanding is to be done, you need to thoroughly clean the floor of dirt so that nothing interferes with the work, for which the floor needs to be vacuumed and washed. After that, you can already start grinding itself.

How to sand parquet with your own hands - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: First Sander Walk - Scraping

Work begins with filling the grinder with sandpaper No. 40. We start the engine and make one circle around the perimeter of the room along the walls, then another circle along the diagonal of the room. Keep in mind that the width of the grinder drum is 20 cm, and therefore each new pass must be shifted by 10 cm. Remember that the machine must move along the wood fibers, and only when turning is it allowed to move across. If we are dealing with artistic parquet, then the movements of the equipment are made in a circle.

Important! During processing, it is only necessary to raise and lower the grinder while driving, otherwise dents may appear on the floor.

Step 2: Finishing corners and hard to reach places

Usually, after the initial treatment, varnish stains remain near pipes, in corners and in other places that are hard to reach for equipment. In this case, you can not do without a special "boot" - an angle grinder. When working in the corners, you may need sanding No. 40 or No. 60. Spots of old varnish should be removed in a circular motion, moving from the corners to the middle of the room. Primary scraping is continued until the floor is completely leveled.

Step 3: Primary sanding of parquet

To complete this step, you will need a surface grinder, preferably equipped with three discs. With its help, you can remove existing scratches and possible burrs that formed after it was carried out. Sandpaper is put on the discs in the following sequence: first comes No. 40, then No. 60, No. 80 and at the end No. 100. With this equipment, the surface is processed literally three or four times, each time using a different skin. Sanding is carried out until the surface of the floor is smooth - to check this, simply run your hand across the floor.

Step 4: Filling cracks and gaps

Before starting to putty the cracks, the parquet is thoroughly vacuumed and washed to remove all dust and small particles of wood. For putty, it is advisable to use ready mix under the color of the parquet. The entire surface of the coating is puttied with a spatula, while it is necessary to distribute the solution evenly so that it fills both the gaps between the parquet planks and the gaps on the floor surface. When the mixture is slightly absorbed (it will be soft, but no longer sticky to the hands), it is necessary to simulate the joints as soon as possible. To do this, you need to use an awl, and joints that are curved in shape are usually imitated using the edge of a ruler.

Step 5: Finish sanding

To remove excess putty from the floor surface, the coating must be processed again with a surface grinder with sandpaper No. 100. However, this work should be carried out only after the putty mortar has completely dried. It is necessary to carry out processing exactly until the moment when the coating becomes perfectly smooth and shiny.

Step 6: Finishing varnish

Before applying varnish to the parquet, the floor is thoroughly vacuumed and washed to remove any small particles of dirt from it. Otherwise, when the varnish dries, round dust will be very noticeable under it. At this stage, you should not relax, because if you make at least one mistake, scraping and puttying will have to be done again. The varnish is applied in at least 3 layers, each of which dries for about 5 hours. Your skill is very important here.

The coating must be applied very quickly, distributing it over the surface of the floor, since the varnish begins to dry in just 10 minutes. After treating the floor with the first layer of varnish, wait for it to dry and once again walk on the floor with a grinder, removing the wood wax that has appeared. It is best to use sandpaper number 100 or 120 for this stage. Vacuum the coating again and apply subsequent layers of varnish.

Finally, I would like to make a few important remarks. We must not forget that grinders work very loudly, and therefore you can work with them only during the day, and only with headphones so as not to go deaf. Check the wiring as well - if it is too old and does not meet the needs of the grinding equipment, it is better to use a powerful stabilizer. Now, having learned how to sand parquet, and what materials you need for this, you can begin to work. Remember - you should not rush here so as not to redo the same thing twice!

No matter how high-quality and expensive parquet is, sooner or later it will require restoration. Mandatory point of restoration work - polishing parquet using special tools and electrical equipment in order to speed up the process and bring it to a higher professional level.

Is it possible to sand wood flooring with your own hands, how to do it so as not to damage the floor, where to start and what work to plan at the final stage? More on that below.

Sanding is sooner or later a necessary and not at all scary process for every parquet.

There are several reasons that affect the loss of a presentable appearance and partly the functionality of parquet. Most often, this is incorrect installation, errors during operation and maintenance, an increased level of loads on the floor, and others. It is quite simple to determine that repair, grinding and polishing of the parquet floor is necessary by the following signs:

  • cover dotted small scratches, covered with cracks - traces of furniture, animal claws, heels, etc.;
  • gaps appeared between the individual elements of the coating;
  • varnish has lost its luster and gloss;
  • floorboards creak when pressed;
  • when tapping, a dull sound is clearly heard - a sign of voids formed under the floor.

These are the main signs indicating the need for work to be carried out first to repair the parquet floor, and then sanding to return it to its aesthetic appearance.

It is not necessary to run the parquet to such a state when its only choice is to replace it.

When is sanding taboo?

The ban on restoration work, which involves grinding or even scraping the surface, is imposed in certain cases after assessing the condition of the old parquet. Most often, this kind of repair and restoration work cannot be carried out if:

  • the gaps between the cracked dies are more than 5 mm, or the entire coating is a mesh of dry slats;
  • the parquet floor is swollen as a result of prolonged contact with water;
  • places of increased loads were so worn out that noticeable height differences appeared;
  • serious potholes and irregularities formed;
  • the floor gets wet due to an improperly arranged waterproofing layer;
  • wood is affected by a grinder beetle;
  • There are traces of mold and fungus in the room.

The problems listed above are indeed an obstacle to parquet sanding, but only temporary. After eliminating major defects with partial repair of areas of the floor that require it, you can proceed to restore its appearance using grinding equipment, both manual and electric.

Before sanding, make sure that the parquet is still in a state where it can still be sanded.

Fine sanding tool set

High-quality polishing of parquet with your own hands implies preparation for the process, regardless of the choice of the method of work - manual or machine. If the option of renting special equipment is excluded, despite its justification in every sense, you should pay attention to a simple and accessible tool for everyone - a manual cycle. This is a plate with a curved and sharpened edge, equipped with a plastic or wooden handle for convenience.

Such a primitive-looking tool allows you to simply remove the top layer of the old varnish from the parquet. The downside of a manual cycle is the laboriousness and duration of the work. Physically removing varnish in this way is difficult, but possible. Moreover, a manual scraper will allow you to process hard-to-reach places on the floor without special equipment. Its advantages include the complete absence of dust, since a sufficiently thick layer of wood is removed in the process.

Manual cycle - good tool and is useful in the household not only for processing parquet

An even more affordable option for working with parquet during sanding is sandpaper. For convenience, it is attached to the sole of the shoe, intensively rubbing the coating. The method is effective, but also, as in the case of manual cycles, laborious and long.

Considering the features of the above floor processing options, it is worth noting that the grinding of old parquet will be better and faster using special equipment. How to use it and what to look for? Below are helpful tips.

The process of restoring a parquet floor is an initial repair with the elimination of defects, after which the so-called primary - rough grinding will definitely follow. To process the coating, it is necessary to prepare the premises and equipment for work. To do this, the room is freed from furniture if possible, and those that remain are covered with a protective film.

The parquet is freed from screws and nails, thoroughly washed, wiped with a dry cloth, and the heads of the fasteners in the tree are masked for several centimeters. At the next stage, the skirting boards are dismantled and the features of the grinding machine are studied, analyzing the power and compliance of the equipment indicators with the sockets in the room.

You need to be aware that grinders are too loud to afford not to wear earmuffs. Also, to protect the mucous membranes, it is worth using a respirator against parquet dust. It does not hurt to use gloves to protect your hands during the exercise. long work for grinding.

When working without headphones, it is quite possible to become partially deaf for a long time.

Stages of grinding work - step by step instructions

Begin work with the elimination of the most noticeable defects. For this you can already use surface grinder belt or drum type. Sandpaper No. 16, 24 or 40 is fixed to the moving part of the equipment, taking into account the condition of the old floor.

At this stage, a tool as wide as possible with a tape up to 20 cm is suitable for high-quality removal of dirt, coating of varnish or oil, along with a small top layer of wood (up to 5 mm).

Belt sander in action

You need to try to sand the parquet yourself, following the proven algorithm of actions - along the walls of the room. Considering high level revolutions of the drum of the machine, the coating after the work will be perfectly even and smooth.

After the first strip in each of the parties, the capture width is shifted. The effect will be enhanced by processing the floor diagonally, followed by processing in the direction of the laid parquet.

It is easy to control the level of drum load on the surface using a special screw. It is important not to overload the machine and at the same time not to switch to too low speed. In addition, you should not forget about the possible voltage drops characteristic of country houses.

After the so-called rough grinding, the parquet floor is treated with putty mixtures to match the color. To achieve the desired shade, parquet chips, formed during the initial finishing process, are added to the mass. It is most convenient to apply the mixture with a wide notched trowel.

And the final stage is delicate grinding and subsequent polishing of the parquet with your own hands. Continue to bring the floor to perfection after the putty mixture has completely cured, using a fine abrasive to eliminate even minor defects. Finished surface cleaned with a vacuum cleaner and covered with several layers of varnish, oil or mastic - as desired.

The main thing is not to be lazy and do everything correctly and accurately

In conclusion, it remains to be noted that parquet sanding is not so difficult and not so long if you choose the equipment that is really suitable for the job and get a small master class on working with it at home.

Manual grinding followed by varnishing is not only an unreasonably long process, but also complex, and most importantly, it does not guarantee a high level of quality, especially if the work is carried out without experience and skills.

That is why, in cases where there is no confidence in the success of the case, it will be enough to study how the parquet is polished, how long and how much the work will cost in order to find a way, if not entrust the work to professionals, then at least act under their remote guidance .