How to clean up old parquet. Do-it-yourself parquet restoration - how to update an old floor

It is quite possible to renew the parquet without resorting to expensive scraping in 1 day, especially if the wear of the floor is insignificant. But defects are not eliminated in one day. In addition, you will need to spend money on materials and tools.

Materials for renovation of parquet

The most important material for parquet renewal is varnish. Its layer is applied to give a well-groomed appearance to the parquet, as well as to protect it from negative factors: water, debris particles, dust, etc. Lacquer must be used when replacing planks to make the color of the coating uniform.

You need to choose one type of varnish from four:

  • Alkyd. Inexpensive lacquer without toxic substances, dries quickly on the floor, the coating lasts an average of 10 years.
  • Epoxy. Composition with a guaranteed service life of 30 to 40 years. When applied, it is toxic, you need to work in a respirator. You can use the room 8-10 days after treatment.
  • Acrylic. The coating serves more than 50 years, the level of toxicity in the treatment of the floor is low. Differs in high cost.
  • Water based. These non-toxic varnishes contain a mixture of water and polymer. Service life - several decades. Some varnishes of this type have tinting properties.

The choice of varnish is made according to the budget and the required service life.

You will also need putty. It can be bought as a ready mix at any hardware store. Such compositions are white or with various shades. You can also prepare putty with your own hands. This option is suitable for those who need to restore a small floor area, and there is too much ready-made putty in the jar for them.

To make putty, take small sawdust and mix with parquet varnish until a thick mass is obtained. Ideally, if these are sawdust of a tree of the same species as the wood of your parquet.

Of the tools you will need an awl, a metal ruler, a wax pencil, a building hair dryer.

Removing scuffs and scratches

You can get rid of small scratches with the help of a skin. Thanks to it, a layer of old varnish and a small layer of wood are removed. You need to rub the parquet carefully, but confidently, making sure that the same amount of material is removed from the tiles. Otherwise, irregularities will be noticeable. You can use a manual cycle. This is a compact tool that is great for small areas. You can work with it in small rooms, narrow corridors, tight corners.

If there are still traces of scratches on the parquet during the processing of the floor, leave them. You will then put putty on them, and they will close.

After applying and drying the putty, go over the parquet with sandpaper again to level the surface. After that, you need to create the illusion of joints, as if no manipulations were made on the parquet.

For very small scratches, putty is not needed, a wax pencil is enough. It, like putty, comes in various shades. When buying, you need to carefully select the color so that the processing places are not conspicuous. If the color of the pencil and the parquet differ greatly, then even after varnishing stains may be noticeable.

Sealing gaps between planks

This process is one of the most difficult to repair parquet on your own. First, the split planks need to be heated with a building hair dryer until a specific smell of mastic appears. Next, pull the planks away from each other (so that a small gap forms between them, into which you can then insert a piece of wood). Then fill the seams with putty.

After that, it is necessary to walk on the treated surface with sandpaper, then varnish. If the parquet is laid in a herringbone pattern, large gaps will have to be grouted separately. With gaps of no more than 5 mm, you can try to process them in the same way as when eliminating scratches and chips.

Creating a seam effect

After puttying the parquet, it is necessary to make the joints of the tiles visible. Wait until the putty dries slightly and stops sticking, but is still soft. Using an awl and ruler, draw lines where the tiles meet.

If the parquet creaks

Usually old floors creak. Sometimes the cause of the creak is the wrong styling. Correcting the situation will help tighten the tiles from the edges to the middle of the room (squeezing). This procedure can be performed only at low humidity in the room (up to 40%). At a humidity of 50-60%, distillation is possible, but it must be carried out with great care. Humidity over 60% makes it impossible.

The steps for trimming are as follows:

  • Remove the plinth. It will not be required until the final stage.
  • Specify how the wedges for the spacer lie. If there is foam in the gap instead, remove it.
  • Install new wedges firmly and securely.
  • Add new wedges every day and keep an eye on whether there is a sound when walking.

If after a week the old floors continue to creak, they will have to be replaced.

Color change

If desired, you can give the parquet a new color. To do this, it is enough to paint the parquet without sanding the pine boards. You can easily purchase varnishes and paints of any shade in the store, designed specifically for parquet. Repair cracks and scratches with sandpaper and putty, then apply the coloring composition.

When is looping indispensable?

If the parquet is severely damaged, it will not be possible to do without a specialist and professional equipment. Examples of such damage:

  • pronounced dents from active use or heavy furniture;
  • wavy cracks in planks;
  • swelling and swelling of wood from water;
  • change in structure and color;
  • mold and rot.

In these situations, drying, reassembly, replacement of individual strips, processing with special compounds is required. It is necessary to do looping in these cases.

Why is it better to entrust the renovation of old parquet to specialists?

You can restore the parquet yourself. But most property owners prefer to involve specialists, which allows you to get the following benefits:

  • Saving personal time and effort. No need to do everything yourself, the master will do the job quickly. Free time can be devoted to loved ones.
  • Saving money. With self-restoration of the floor without experience, errors are possible. To fix them, you need to buy materials again, and sometimes pay for the work of other people.
  • Optimal choice of materials. The master will accurately calculate how many varnishes, paints, putties are needed. You don't have to buy anything extra. Representatives of the company can buy and bring everything they need. You do not need to buy tools: the master has everything.
  • Warranty. Masters provide a guarantee for the result of their work and materials.

When carrying out repairs, many people think about how to update the parquet without sanding. Over the years, even the most expensive material wears out, loses its presentable appearance and needs to be restored.

The following defects appear:

  • bumps, potholes, cracks;
  • loosening and peeling of individual planks;
  • creaking when walking on the floor.

The most radical and costly way to update a parquet board is sanding. What are the budget alternatives for updating the floor and restoring its lost beauty?

Renovation of parquet without scraping: elimination of scratches and irregularities

To eliminate small scratches and smooth out roughness on wood, you can use sandpaper and a hand scraper. The first step in the restoration work is the removal of the old varnish in the area requiring repair. After that, putty must be applied to the restoration area.

Sandpaper is used to level the surface after the grout has dried. To simulate seams, you will need a metal ruler and an awl. The final stage is the application of varnish. To eliminate minor scratches, you can use a wax pencil. To improve the appearance of the floor, you can cover the worn parquet with a special paint, varnish or protective compound.

How to update the parquet if the boards are loose?

Loose planks can be fixed by driving nails into the end of the boards at an acute angle. If the problem affects a large area, then bamboo inserts can be used around the area requiring restoration to eliminate it. To drive in wedges, you will need to pre-drill a series of holes.

Fighting creaky parquet

With the aging of the parquet, a characteristic creak appears during walking. Measure the humidity level in the room. This value should not exceed 40%. Without resorting to replacing the boards, you can partially eliminate the creak using the technology of "wedging" the parquet around the perimeter. To do this, you will need to dismantle the skirting boards, wedges. After that, new spacers are clogged with an interval of 50 centimeters.

Within a few days after the restoration, it is necessary to check whether the floor creaks, and if there is a defect, knock out the wedges. If it was not possible to eliminate the problem in this way, then 100% elimination of the unpleasant sound will help you in compliance with all the technologies of construction and repair work. Our experts are ready to replace the outdated coating at the highest professional level.

Parquet is a cozy and environmentally friendly floor covering. With proper care, it will last for decades. Ordinary domestic accidents most often do not lead to the final damage to the parquet floor, and do-it-yourself parquet repair in most cases does not require significant costs and any special skills. To prepare for minor and cosmetic repairs of the parquet floor, it is enough to take the furniture out of the room and do a wet cleaning. In this article, we will look at how to renew parquet without sanding over the entire floor area. Full scraping with re-varnishing is an expensive and time-consuming operation. .

Severe cases

In three cases, independent restoration of parquet will require significant costs of money, time and labor:

  • Heavily worn, neglected and trampled parquet with hollows visible to the eye and wave-like cracks in the dies. In this case, most often you can do without replacing the parquet flooring, but it is best to entrust the restoration of parquet to professionals: it will cost less.
  • The floor swollen after abundant flooding over the entire area; dies (parquet) came off the base. This floor needs to be redone. After drying in a stack, old parquets can be used, but the whole complex of sanding and varnishing works is also necessary.
  • The dies have darkened, the wood is loose, with a slight pressure, the awl goes into the tree by 5 mm or more. The parquet floors are rotten and moldy. Required with drying the room and preparing the base floor.

In other cases, the restoration of parquet with your own hands is quite possible. If parquet work is timed to the repair of the premises, they are performed last. Consider first of all what materials and technological operations will be required for this.

Lacquer, putty and paste

Parquet lacquer is needed both to create a protective coating and to match the replaced parquet to match the existing one. Parquet varnishes are available in four types:

  1. Alkyd and uralkyd. Inexpensive, non-toxic, dry quickly: work can be continued, and the room can be populated an hour after application. But the durability of the coating does not exceed 10 years, after which a complete sanding and re-varnishing is required. Uralkyd varnish is a little more expensive and more durable than alkyd. It is recommended to use around the perimeter of the room and for temporary, for several years, covering before repair.
  2. Epoxy varnishes. With proper care, they provide the durability of parquet in 30-40 years, but they are expensive. During curing, highly toxic volatile substances are released, so you need to work in a respirator, rubber gloves and goggles, open the windows wide and close the door tightly. Work can be continued and the room can be settled a week after varnishing: a seemingly completely frozen varnish is gaining strength for a long time.
  3. Acrylic varnishes as well as epoxy, require mixing before using the base and hardener. Little toxic, but very expensive. The durability of the coating with proper care is up to 50 years or more.
  4. Water based varnish in fact, not a varnish, but a finely dispersed suspension of a polymer (PVA or another) in water. Non-toxic, cheap, the coating "ripens" in a day. Penetrates into the mass of wood, which gives it strength for decades; the exact time depends on the quality of the wood. Allows rubbing with mastic. Parquet lacquered with water varnish is not so sensitive to grains of sand. Disadvantages: strongly fades under the action of ultraviolet light and slightly changes the tone of the wood.

Working operations

For minor parquet repairs, you need to master four simple technological methods: preparing tinted putty, simulating joints, scraping with hand scrapers and foot polishing.

Cosmetic putty

You can do without the preparation of home-made cosmetic putty: a variety of restoration pastes for parquet, Bona, and other various shades are on sale. But if you have a few old parquet floors lying around in your closet, the same ones that are laid on the floor, you can prepare a grout for gouges and joints that is ideal for the floor. To do this, you need to file more sawdust with any suitable tool and mix them with parquet varnish to the consistency of sour cream. In epoxy varnish, you can add sawdust filler in a ratio of up to 4:1; it will be something like plasticine.

But it makes sense to prepare putty on your own only in the case described above: to obtain an exactly matching tone, not only the breed matters, but also the period with the conditions for aging the wood. If there are no exactly the same wood samples, it is easier to buy ready-made putty or paste of a suitable shade.

Video: parquet putty


Imitation of joints

Imitation of the joints of the dies on the puttied surface of the parquet is done with an ordinary awl and a metal locksmith's ruler:

  • They are waiting for the gelatinization of the putty, i.e. it should no longer be "taken", but still be soft. In alkyd and uralkyd varnishes, gelatinization occurs within minutes after application and lasts about a minute, so you need to work quickly.
  • Direct false joints are carried out with an awl along the ruler.
  • Curved false joints are made with a ruler edge with a little pressure.
  • False joints on frozen putty, when necessary, are scratched with an awl along a ruler or a galvanized template.

Manual scraping

Small areas of the repaired parquet are manually scraped with a manual scraper. Ready-made cycles are sold in tool stores. You can make a cycle yourself from a piece of iron for a planer by releasing its blade, bending it with a hook and hardening it again. (More details about do-it-yourself manual and machine scraping -).

Grinding feet

For sanding sections of parquet, it is convenient to use old flat-soled shoes: sneakers, “bazaar” Chinese summer shoes, etc. Glue skin number 40 (rougher) with 88th glue on one sole; on the other - number 80 (thinner), for primary and fine grinding. Scuffing with your foot is also somewhat tiring, but it is much more difficult to rub with your hands while kneeling or bending over. And the skin on an elastic sole works more accurately than on a sanding bar.

Parquet repair

Chewing gum and plasticine

It is impossible to wash or remove with a solvent: a stain will remain on the parquet. You need to prepare a plastic bag (not plastic) with ice cubes and put it on the contamination. After 10-20 min. it will rise with the package or fall over without leaving a trace.

Scratches, chips, gouges, corners of dies

To eliminate minor defects without removing the furniture, first with a cycle, and then with sandpaper, the old varnish is removed to clean wood and the defect is sealed with cosmetic putty on a cardboard stencil. After hardening, the putty is rubbed with sandpaper until smooth and immediately, until the putty has gained strength, the false joints are scratched. Then varnished, picking up a varnish to match. At least two layers of varnish are applied, following after the previous one has completely dried.

You can try to remove single scratches and chips with the help of widely sold repair kits, in particular with wax pencils.

Cleavage

Slots often form in old parquet. This is the result of natural drying of the wood, and such a floor is most likely still quite usable. Narrow single cracks are sealed with putty in the same way as scratches with potholes: peeling, putty, false joint, varnishing.

Sealing gaps multiple and wider than 5 mm is somewhat more difficult:

  1. A number of parallel parquet floors (if the laying is not herringbone) are heated for 10-20 minutes with a household hair dryer. A sure sign that it is warm enough is the appearance of the smell of mastic or base putty.
  2. With a laminate hook rule and a rubber mallet, pull the dies towards each other so that one wide gap remains.
  3. A wooden riveting is tightly laid on the putty in the gap flush with the parquet slabs.
  4. After the putty has hardened, the area to be repaired is peeled off, puttied, false joints are made, sanded and varnished.
  5. On herringbone parquet, wide gaps are sealed individually, using wood chips instead of rivets.

The parquet floors are shaking

Fastening parquet on nails

If individual dies are loosened randomly, they are attached to neighboring small carnations at an angle of 45 degrees. Nails are driven in along the long sides of the dies 15-20 mm from the corners. Nail heads are driven into the tree with a hammer and a metal spacer rod (doboynik). Wells with caps putty, without peeling. After the putty has hardened, it is once passed through with sandpaper and varnished with a drop of varnish.

If the dies “play” with whole hearths, then they are fixed with bamboo. Bamboo is not a tree, but a large and hard grass. The cut shows that its fibers are located quite differently from that of wood. With a little moisture from the air, bamboo swells a little more than wood.

The cutting of playing parquet with bamboo is done as follows:

  • On the long sides, 15-20 mm from the corners at the joints, vertical holes with a diameter of 4-6 mm are drilled.
  • Round bamboo logs are driven into the holes tightly, even tightly; the protruding residue is cut off with a sharply sharpened chisel.
  • A week later, the repaired section of the cycles is peeled off, the cracks are puttied, false joints are made, sanded and varnished.

Creak

Perhaps the most common question regarding the repair of parquet floors is what to do if the parquet creaks? The creak of parquet is a consequence of the natural aging of the floor or a violation of its laying technology. Old Soviet parquet, laid on bituminous mastic, can most often be corrected for several years before repair; "hacky" floors - in some cases. First of all, you need to try to pull the parquet from the edges:

  1. We check the humidity in the room with a hygrometer. It should not exceed 60%. With higher humidity, the floor will not work. The optimal value is 40%. Such humidity is typical for winter time with heating turned on.
  2. We remove the skirting boards and check the spacer wedges; most likely, they no longer burst anything, but simply lie in the crack.
  3. If there are no wedges at all, and the gap is foamed, we select the foam with a chisel to a clean groove.
  4. We install new pairs of wedges after 0.5-0.6 m and knock them tight.
  5. Every day we knock in wedges and check the floor for squeaks. If within a week the creak has not decreased, and the wedges sit as tight as at the beginning - alas, the parquet has served its purpose, and you need to think about how to re-lay it. An alternative option for two to five years before repair is to cover the floor with plywood on a soft waterproofing film or, if the old parquet is definitely not needed, on thickly ground mineral paint: whitewash, minium.

Video: self-eliminating floor squeaks


swelling

It is possible to independently fix the parquet that has swollen after wetting is possible only in some cases, and if it was not spilled a little on the entire floor. In this case, you can try to do the following:

  • Warm up the swollen area thoroughly, for an hour and a half or more, with short breaks, with a household hair dryer. The smell of mastic that has appeared is a sign that the repair is likely to succeed.
  • Quickly, until the floor has cooled down, cover it with a dense cloth like burlap and give a weight distributed over the area of ​​at least 10 kg / sq. dm. For this, weights or other weights (basin or boil-out with water, stacks of books or bricks, etc.) are suitable on a piece of magpie board or a piece of thick plywood, fiberboard, etc. The author of these lines observed a case when they worked perfectly as a weight three tube color televisions - "coffins".
  • Withstand under load for at least a day; check if the swelling has subsided. If the “bubble” has significantly decreased, repeat the operation.

If the swelling has not noticeably fallen off - alas, the floor is damaged, you need to re-lay it.

In serious cases, like the one shown in the image, the best solution is to completely replace the damaged elements.

Note: if you decide to start working a week or more after it swelled, you can not try. Fungal spores have already awakened in the solid wood.

A little trick for all cases of floor repair: parquet made of straight-grained wood (oak, walnut) before starting work, you need to slightly moisten it by laying it with a slightly dampened and tightly wrung out cloth until it dries. Fine-layer parquet (beech, birch, mountain ash) and from tropical tree species, on the contrary, it is necessary to dry as best as possible.

Parquet care

As the best way to treat diseases is their prevention, so the best way to repair a parquet floor is proper and timely care of the parquet. There are three main enemies of parquet: excessive / insufficient humidity, sand and ultraviolet. From the “wrong” humidity, the wood shrinks or swells and is more easily affected by the fungus. Sand scratches the lacquer and spoils the upper, decorative layer of wood, and from ultraviolet light, the wood darkens and takes on a sloppy look. So:

  1. During the day, illuminate the room with diffused light. Previously, tulle curtains were recommended for this; now there is a better tool: vertical blinds. But not horizontal, they can, on the contrary, concentrate ultraviolet and direct it to the parquet!
  2. Enter the room with parquet flooring only in slippers. Place a cloth rug in front of the door - it holds grains of sand in itself, and from the pile of the carpet they then fall onto the floor.
  3. In front of the front door to the apartment, lay a plastic mat - shoe cleaner.
  4. In winter, when the humidity in the apartment with the heating turned on can drop to 20%, moisten the air, at least with tin troughs with water suspended from radiators.
  5. In summer, ventilate the room more often; screen windows and balcony doors. It not only keeps mosquitoes out, but also captures large fractions of street dust that are most harmful to parquet.
  6. Vacuum the parquet more often, but never with a washing vacuum cleaner! Wet cleaning - only manual.
  7. Do wet cleaning no more than once a week, with a slightly damp and well-wrung cloth. The best option is a special microfiber cloth.

Video: expert opinion on parquet care

Just in case: the parquet that lasts three generations is not lacquered. Such parquet is regularly, especially valuable - every day, rubbed with mastic based on oil and beeswax. Mastic strengthens the entire top layer of parquet a few millimeters deep. The work of rubbing is laborious, but in our time it is facilitated by water-based parquet varnish. It is enough to rub the parquet lacquered by him once a week.

Parquet cleaning

Parquet cleaning is a special conversation. Parquet should be cleaned with special cleaners that are chemically neutral and do not contain abrasives. They are based on non-ionic surfactants with a neutral acid-base reaction.

Today, parquet flooring has become popular, which steadily occupies a leading position among other floor coverings. It is reliable, practical and has a long service life. Previously, such floors were considered a luxury, indicating the wealth of the owners. Now they are found both in ordinary city apartments and in prestigious country houses.

Over time, parquet loses its charm. Scratches appear on it, cracks may form, it begins to creak, some plank may swell or detach. Replacing the flooring completely is expensive.

Parquet restoration options

There are two ways to incompletely repair such a flooring:

  • surface;
  • updating some plates.

The first type includes the elimination of cracks, chips, potholes, work with the color of the planks.
You should not delay the restoration of parquet if it has begun to lose its appearance, creaks or defects have appeared on it. Then the repair will be cheaper, and it will take less time.

Necessary materials for work

You will need special equipment and tools to carry out the planned damage repair. They can be purchased or rented to save money.
You will need the following: a scraping and grinding electric machine or a manual scraper, a vacuum cleaner, a puncher or a drill with different drills, a hacksaw, a hammer, a chisel and be sure to goggles and a respirator. In order not to spoil the fresh varnish coating, shoes should be on soft flexible soles. Of the materials you will need: new boards in place of damaged ones, glue and wood putty, stain, varnish, paint and oil.

Restoration of parquet flooring without sanding

These are surface restoration works carried out in stages:

  1. Remove skirting boards and sills.
  2. Remove the old varnish with a grinder. In places difficult to access, clean manually with scrapers. If you don't have one, use a hair dryer. After warming up hard-to-reach areas, remove the varnish with a spatula.
  3. Carefully remove all debris and vacuum.
  4. Examine the parquet. If necessary, putty some of its sections.
  5. Sand again the entire surface with a machine with a coarse-grained nozzle to remove roughness, and vacuum again without leaving dust.
  6. First primer with varnish using a roller or a wide brush.
  7. After the varnish has dried, sand the floor with fine emery attached to the nozzle of the grinder.
  8. Remove the dust and varnish the parquet again.

The last two steps can be performed up to 9 times until the surface is completely smooth. The main thing is to prime and varnish along the wood fibers. The last layer dries for at least 3 days. It is necessary that windows and doors are closed to prevent drafts and dust on the lacquered parquet.

Scratches and cracks

From pets, there will always be traces of their claws on the floor. If there is little damage, then scratches and small cracks can be retouched with a wax pencil. If deep wounds are observed, for example, they moved heavy furniture, then here one cannot do without cleaning the varnish. Follow the procedure as described above, and then, using an automatic or manual cycle, remove the top layer of wood.
It will be difficult for a beginner to do this so that everything works out in perfect form. Therefore, get ready that you will have to repeat the actions more than once, but on all sections in turn, which are subject to restoration. Then carefully again remove the dust, primer, putty, apply varnish. Repeat the process until these areas are absolutely smooth.

Chips and potholes

Here are the same steps as described above. Putty is mixed with cycling dust so that the damaged areas treated with it are not conspicuous. The mixture is filled into the recesses along the direction of the wood fibers, using a wide spatula. Now, prime these areas and varnish. Further, the restoration of the parquet takes place according to the scheme: grinding, cleaning, a layer of varnish. Repeat everything in several passes.

cracks

Cracks in wood are formed due to its qualities such as moisture absorption and the ability to dry out in a dry atmosphere. It is not difficult to get rid of these defects. It is necessary, in the same way as in previous cases, to remove the top layer, vacuum all the cracks properly and remove debris with a knife. Now defects can be covered with putty mixed with dust after cycling and the varnish coating can be restored.

Creak, local restoration

Unpleasant creaking of the floor under your feet occurs for the following reasons:

  • loose bars;
  • sagging wedges between flooring and wall;
  • voids formed under the parquet.

To begin with, it is worth checking the wedges under the baseboards. They may be dried out and therefore do not hold the parquet. Take out each element and replace it with a new one. Rotate the baseboard into place and observe the flooring throughout the week. If the floor continues to creak, the origin of the sound is elsewhere. Parquet is mounted on plywood or screed. Over time, the foundation is destroyed and failures form. This is where the creaking starts. We need to find parquet flooring, from under which the sound is heard. Drill a hole and use a syringe to inject special glue or cement. When working with the latter, remember that it quickly hardens, and therefore do everything quickly and very carefully so as not to stain neighboring boards. The operation ends when the mixture stops flowing in and goes out, after which a press must be placed in this place. After 48 hours, remove it and putty the filled hole. If the creaking sounds spread over a large area, the entire flooring will need to be redone.

swelling

This nuisance occurs due to a violation of the rules for mounting the parquet or moisture seeped under it, which led to swelling. If you have panel parquet, then you will have to redo it all.
If small areas are swollen, it is necessary to warm their surface. After a characteristic smell from chemicals has appeared, a load weighing at least 12 kg per 1 dm² is placed on the heated area. After a day, we look, if the tubercle has decreased, the procedure must be carried out again. If the rules are violated during installation, it is necessary to disassemble the entire floor covering. Then dry the boards at room temperature and fold again.

Plank repair

It often happens that individual parquets do not hold and jump out of their place. Then they need to be changed to new boards and restoration operations must be done on the entire surface.
Action plan:

  1. Remove varnish to reveal boards in need of repair;
  2. If the gap between one of them and the rest is more than 0.5 cm, then it should be changed;
  3. Pour glue into small cracks and place the load for several hours;
  4. Carefully pull out the bars to be replaced, splitting them in the center;
  5. Clean the freed space from the glue;
  6. Bring the dimensions of the new bar under the worn one, clean the base and grease it with glue;
  7. Lay the bar so that its grooves coincide with the grooves of the nearby bar and press firmly with a load, leaving for a week;
  8. Putty, sand and varnish the floor in the same way as in the previous cases.

Sticky chewing gum and plasticine

The solvent, of course, will help here, but the stains will remain. Take an ordinary piece of ice, hold it on the "decoration" until it freezes. Now you can easily remove it from the surface of the floor covering without causing any harm to it.

Parquet care

In order for the parquet to retain its original state for longer, it is enough to adhere to the rules for its operation. There are three factors that adversely affect wood flooring. These are: ultraviolet, high humidity or lack of it, sand. If the room is very humid or you often use wet cleaning, the boards will gradually swell, and in addition to this, mold can develop under them, which is a danger to people's health. A dry atmosphere dries out parquet flooring, which leads to their loosening. From ultraviolet light, the wooden flooring changes its color. It becomes unevenly dark, which is ugly. The sand ruthlessly scratches the floor.

You can't walk on the parquet in street shoes. Before entering the room, it is advisable to put a rug in order to wipe the sole on it before entering the house. Blinds on the windows will save from direct sunlight. Wet cleaning of parquet is allowed to be done only once a week, and not more often than that.