The other day I made another stilt

and decided to get confused by writing an article on their manufacture.

So, friends, I am ready to provide you with my article on making stilts.

To begin with, I made demonstrative pictures from what materials stilts are made from.

Beam:

Mountings:

Foam rubber:

Solid rubber (tire):

Soft rubber:

Plywood:

Fittings:

Quantity:

Beam - 2 pieces
Mounts - 6 pcs. (3 on the go)
Soft rubber - 4 pcs. (2 large and 2 small)
Hard rubber - 6 pcs. (3 on the go)
Plywood - 4 pcs. (2 large and 2 small)
Foam rubber - along the length of the sling
Fittings (described in the picture)

I think we figured out the materials (it is worth noting that minor discrepancies in dimensions and physical properties acceptable).

So, starting to manufacture, I will once again list what materials we will use and how much, I will describe some of their nuances and give a list of tools for work.

Stage 1: Preparation.

Materials:

For the base, we use a pine beam with a section of 40x40 cm.The length is selected individually, but do not forget to take with a margin for individual elements stilt.
For the protective visor, we take plywood. 1 cm thick is more than enough. For one stilt, you need two pieces of 9.6x14 and 8x6 cm in area, two pieces of rubber with an area of ​​approximately 10.8x12.7 and 9.5x12.7 cm.For fastenings, a 5 cm sling is individual, but you can proceed from the figurative standard: 60 cm - foot, 65 cm - middle, 50 cm - top. Velcro is needed on the sling: soft part approximately 24.5 cm for one mount and approximately 10 cm of hard part for one mount. For each fastening there is a 1st buckle under 5 cm strap, better than a metal one, so it is more reliable. For the sole of the stilt, or as it is also called hooves, we take hard rubber with a tread, usually used bicycle tire, for one walker there are 2-3 pieces of such a tire, each 17 cm in length approximately. (2 pieces are usually enough, but if you don't want to bother with races in six months, adding a new tire, then you can put 3 pieces - it will take longer to wipe).
Fittings: here you can buy everything with a margin, especially the little things. For at least one walker: small screws - 9 pcs. , large screws - 4 pcs., small washers for self-tapping screws - 9 pcs., 6x10 bolts - 2 pcs., 6x14 bolts - 2 pcs., M6 nuts - 4 pcs., large washers for bolts - 8 pcs. Based on this minimum, buy a little with a margin, it does not hurt, a lot can happen in your work.
Foam rubber - it can sheathe a sling, it is an optional part of the stilt. The length is selected according to the length of the sling.
Well, scotch tape, electrical tape and paint to taste.

Instruments:

To saw timber and plywood - saw;
Cutting rubber - knife;
Drill holes in wood - drill with different drills;
Screw in fittings and other small things - screwdriver, pliers, hammer, scissors;
Roulette or ruler, pencil or permanent felt-tip pen;
Paint brush;
To grind the edges of a tree - a file;
To glue rubber - glue or hot melt glue.

Be sure to prepare a comfortable workplace... This will affect not only the quality of work, but also your health and comfort.

Stage 2: Manufacturing.

We will make the most common version of the stilt. Attention, decide for yourself at what stage of production you will paint the wooden components, at the very beginning or at the end.

Take a bar, measure 90 centimeters from one end of it, make a notch, measure 45 cm from the notch (this length is individual and depends on the length of your legs, here I did it under my feet. It is important to remember that the protective plywood should be just below the cup) and again we make a serif. At the level of the second notch, we saw off the excess part of the timber, we get 135 cm. We make the same blank for the second stilt. Next, here's what we do with the remnants of the timber, we saw four pieces of 12 cm each and two pieces of 9.5 cm. We take those that are 12 cm each together and attach them to the first notch so that the rest of these pieces go down from the notch. We hold tightly (it is better to ask someone else to help) and drill two holes directly through both pieces of the timber and through the main timber itself (if the length of the drill is not enough, then you can drill as much as possible, and then substitute and mark the point with a pencil or a nail and drill there hole), we take a drill under 6mm or a little more.
Then we take that small piece of timber that is 9.5 cm long and plywood, put them to each other, so that the bar is on the edge of the plywood (and the plywood is horizontal), we take it all together and attach it to the main timber, but already at the very top, so that it is level with the top of the main bar, note that we put it to the side of the main bar, which goes next clockwise (this is for stilts under the right foot!), we also drill two holes through a piece of bar, plywood and the main bar ... We assemble the structure using a 14 cm long bolt for an element with three beams, and 10 cm for two beams and plywood.

We collected everything, now the same thing with the left stilt, but do not confuse the sides: two beams should be with inside, and the plywood is directed towards them, but attached from the end.

Further fastenings. We cut the sling to lengths, as it was said in the first part of the story or in the picture about the materials, we sew a soft and hard part with the appropriate dimensions to them on one side, and a buckle on the other side. Stitch more reliably, better use sewing machine... We made 3 bindings for one stilt and 3 for the second. We take the mount for the foot, install it on two bars, with a buckle to the main bar and with Velcro down, make sure that along the main bar from the buckle to two bars there is a small margin of a foot, so that the buckle moves freely and so that when we put our foot on two bars it was free to push the slings through it. We fix the sling around the main bar with electrical tape in a place just below the buckle, but so that the buckle still moves freely. Next, we fix everything as it turned out with a small piece of plywood on top. We screw it to this two bars and a sling, using 4 self-tapping screws for reliability (but it is possible, as a last resort, to save money, if anything, using at least 2).

We do the same with the second stilt.

We attach the middle mount at a height of about 15 cm from the bottom one (individually!). Fasten on the opposite (outer) side of the bottom sling using three small self-tapping screws with small washers. The fastening is directed so that the buckle is in front on a small free length of the sling in a couple of centimeters, the Velcro looks away from the stilt. Everything is the same, only in a mirror image with a second stilt. Upper fastening: for it we take a sling, cut off the part with the buckle (so that the sewn part remains on the cut piece, otherwise the whole thread can bloom), we screw this part with the buckle with the same three self-tapping screws and washers to the plywood with outside on the left, again so that there is free play of the buckle, we attach the second part of the sling using the same amount of the same fittings to the back of the stilt at the same level vertically, with Velcro from the stilt .. Note that it is better to tuck in double layer the sling at the screwing point.

We do the same with the second stilt.

Sole: we take one piece of the tire, put it on the lower part of the main bar, fix it with tape, then take the second piece and put it on as well, only across the first (i.e., turning it 90 degrees), fix it all with self-tapping screws and from above everything with tape , and for beauty we can also wind electrical tape (the third piece of the tire to taste).

We also make a sole on the second stilt.

Next, take two pieces of soft rubber. We compose them with the same heights to each other and set them like this: big piece on the plywood from the inside, and a small one perpendicular to the two blocks, also from the inside. It is better to put all this a little higher, the knee will be more pleasant, you can navigate on the plywood, right next to the underside of the plywood, for example. And we glue all this at the first and second stilts.

Finally, after checking the reliability and accuracy of the entire structure, we paint the stilts with the paint you like or glue them, as I preferred to do, with aluminum tape.

As a result, we got such stilts =)

Thank you very much for your attention, I am ready to answer any questions.

Companies that are engaged in the production of means of "small mechanization" of internal finishing works have long been offering an alternative to conventional scaffolding or ladders. These are construction stilts reminiscent of the famous devices of circus performers. In this article we will try to understand their practical value.

Design

Outwardly, such stilts at first glance resemble the elements of some kind of exoskeleton: articulated pivoting (albeit only in one plane) feet, adjustable in the length of the "leg", equipped with fastening devices, clamps for fixing the worker's legs. All these parts are functionally interconnected in order to ensure the integrity of the construction stilts during movement.

The most convenient construction stilts for use include the following units:

1. Length (sometimes - width) adjustable feet.
2. Soles with pads made of friction material with sufficient wear resistance, and some manufacturers also include a replacement pair of such pads in the kit.
3. The foot pivot unit, which, in turn, consists of a finger, two bearing seats and return springs, which ensure the safety of the use of the stilts in case of accidental pressing of the feet working on the supporting surface.
4. Aluminum rods, the height of which can be adjusted using an eccentric clamping mechanism. In more expensive models construction stilts, the mechanism can be controlled remotely using a rack and pinion gear.
5. Corrugated footrests that attach to the top of the boom and support the worker's feet.
6. Running rails that connect the rods to the sockets for attaching the equipment in question to the lower leg. Reiki have the ability to discretely change their height in accordance with the height of the person (3 ... 6 positions).
7. Fastening tapes that wrap around the worker's leg. They should be made of elastic rubber-fabric compositions that are tested for fivefold tensile stress (so it is, or not, we can only hope).

In the production of this product, its manufacturers are guided by conflicting requirements. On the one hand, the mass of the stilts should be minimal in order to facilitate them practical use... On the other hand, some structural elements - springs, rack and pinion - for the purpose of reliability, must be made of steel.

Construction stilts are delivered in an assembled state, therefore they do not take up much space in the general equipment. Before you start using them, you just need to adjust the height of the rods and running rails for the specific height of the room and the anthropometric data of the worker.

Features of operation

It is not easy to get used to walking on construction stilts: with a lack of experience, falls from a height are possible, which can be accompanied by serious injuries. This is due to the design of the product: the center of gravity of the stilts does not allow any significant deviation from the conventional longitudinal axis. At the same time, with an increase in the length of the sole, the stability increases, therefore, to the detriment of functionality (too long soles prevent you from getting close to the wall of the room being trimmed), construction stilts with an increased sole, and not height, gain an advantage.

The method of movement will also require special skill, since the sliding of the feet of the stilts on the surface of the room where the tool in question is used is excluded. Therefore, it is necessary to move, alternately pushing forward (it is generally not recommended to move “in reverse” on stilts) one or the other bar, while the step of movement should not exceed half the length of the sole. Obviously, before use, you will need to perform a series of workouts, and with an assistant. And, of course, carefully study the instructions for the product.

The selection of a standard size and subsequent adjustment of all structural elements of building stilts should be carried out taking into account the following factors:

1. User's anthropometry: the size of the foot, the height of the lower leg and its girth in the required place.
2. The height of the room in which it is necessary to carry out the finishing work. When working at the highest point, the user's hand must ensure the angle between the shoulder and elbow joints is not more than 150 ... 160 °.
3. The condition of the floor, on which there should be no irregularities, cracks, grooves. Naturally, the coating should be free of any grease and oil contamination. It is not recommended to use stilts on stepped surfaces.
4. The worker's overalls and footwear should also take into account the peculiarities of using stilts: wet shoes, for example, reduce grip on the sole, and the absence of pockets or shoulder straps for a working tool or bag makes the use of stilts elementary inconvenient, since in this case, getting any objects off the floor impossible.
5. The state of health of the worker. In particular, with the existing vascular insufficiency of the peripheral circulation organs, prolonged clamping of the lower leg can cause a dangerous excess of blood pressure.
6. User weights.

Here, by the way, is a good video where the master shares his experience of using building stilts.

Where can they be used?

It makes sense to use construction stilts in hard-to-reach places where it is impossible to install more resistant to loads building construction- ladders / stepladders, scaffolds, trestles, etc. such places are most often:

• The corners of rooms and halls (when installing tension or false ceilings, in finishing, plastering and electrical work without the use of a massive tool that causes vibration during use);
• Decorating niches, alcoves, bay windows and other perimeter elements where the use of stationary high-rise devices is impossible;
• Internal construction and repair work in rooms where there is furniture or other interior items that cannot be removed from the room, for example, fireplaces, wall-mounted water heaters, etc.;
• Mechanized work on painting ceilings using a spray gun (for manual painting, the absence of a working platform will cause the worker to constantly move across the floor, which is tedious).

In general, the effectiveness of construction stilts increases when the labor intensity of the construction and repair transition at a certain high-rise section of the room increases, and the need for tools that should be at arm's length (moreover, horizontally, not obliquely) is low. Otherwise, you will have to constantly move on stilts, and this, as noted earlier, is not always convenient.

The main technical characteristics stilts are:

1. Carrying capacity, kg. Devices are available that allow a load of at least 110 kg.
2. Sole sizes - from 38 to 45 sizes.
3. Height of adjustment of running racks, mm - 380 ... 1000.
4. Maximum height application, m - 2.65 ... 3.71.
5. Own weight, kg - 5.8 ... 7.3.

When choosing a manufacturer of construction stilts, the intensity of the use of the fixtures should be taken into account. For example, professionals who often use such products prefer the SkyWalker range of stilts from American company Marshalltown. These products are distinguished by reliable assembly, and high-quality aluminum and composite materials... The price of such products is 49,000 ... 54,000 rubles.

The budget niche of construction stilts is represented by products brand Stilts (China). Their price, depending on the standard size, is in the range of 7000 ... 15000 rubles.

Do it yourself?

For low-volume high-rise works, it may be advisable to make construction stilts with your own hands. It is quite affordable for the home craftsman, and drawings of such equipment can be found on the web. In terms of elegance, such products, of course, are inferior to professional ones, but often reliability and minimization of financial costs are more important for the user.

In the very simple execution stilts can be made of duralumin pipes of the required length and a diameter of at least 100 mm, as well as two sets of plywood soles. On the side of the pipes, wooden racks are attached (you can use cuttings from shovels) with the help of which the running rails will be attached to the lower leg or to the waist of the worker. The option of a cruciform connection of both sticks with fastening around the neck is possible.

Instead of aluminum, square bars of dry solid wood (oak, pear, larch) can also be used. Several (up to 10 pieces, with an interval of 80 ... 100 mm) holes are drilled in both bars for bolt fastening of the footrests. The footboards themselves are made from the same material. They are in the form of a corner with a side attachment and a main working platform, the dimensions of which should correspond to the comfortable position of the user's foot. Support platforms with anti-slip rubber pads are attached to the lower ends of the racks (they are nailed, screwed in, or glued).

All contact surfaces must be carefully ground to avoid burrs and cracks. Anti-rotting impregnation with creosote will not be superfluous, which will help to preserve the performance of self-made building stilts.

Comparative ease of manufacture and a minimum of expensive components - undoubted advantages such products in front of expensive tooling, especially if it will be used only periodically.

Almost every person who has visited the circus at least once had the opportunity to contemplate how the artists move on stilts, which are several times higher than human height in height. This idea of ​​moving was to the liking of foreign builders, and for quite a long time this equipment has been successfully used for repair and finishing work on a hill.

Considering the fact that construction stilts have "reached" our consumer, it is advisable to review this equipment and figure out how to make construction stilts with your own hands.

What construction stilts can be used for

Construction stilts refer to a specialized tool, due to which the user can perform work at height, without additional devices, be it goats, scaffolding or ladders. Moreover, unlike acrobatic stilts, stilts for construction have smaller dimensions, are equipped with height adjustment and are distinguished by a stable structure. These innovations were introduced by tool manufacturers with the aim of ensuring that virtually everyone (even without special training) can use this equipment without restrictions.

Using construction stilts, you can move along the entire room at the required height. It is this circumstance that allows many construction operations to be carried out without the use of labor-intensive devices. Works such as plastering and plastering of the ceiling, PVC installation panels, installation stretch ceilings etc. can be produced using construction stilts.

Pros and cons of building stilt

If we talk about the merits of using a stilt for carrying construction works, then you should pay attention to the following ones:

• The high speed of work is due to the fact that there is no need to use additional equipment for work at height (ladders, stairs, scaffolding), which must be constantly rearranged from one place to another.
• Comfortable conditions for work on an elevation are associated with the fact that at any time, the performer will be able to move to the place he needs.
• The possibility of adjusting the height will make it possible to use construction stilts with equal success in different premises and for people of different heights.

The limitations when using construction stilts include their high cost and the need for additional training before use. Indeed, even if basic safety requirements are met, it is easy to fall off the stilts and even get injured. In addition, in order to move along the premises with the help of construction stilts, it is necessary to have an even base (floor), which is not always feasible in a structure being repaired.

What to look at

If you are thinking about buying construction stilts, you should consider the following factors.

First, it concerns the brand. After all, given the fact that this construction device is not represented in our market in a wide segment, it is quite difficult to find high-quality stilts. The most popular are the means of movement of American or European production.

Secondly, the height of the rig and the maximum permissible weight of the user should be taken into account (usually no more than 100 kg). Moreover, in addition to the listed characteristics, it is desirable to use a stilt with the ability to adjust in height.

How to make construction stilts with your own hands

Currently, many types of stilts are known: hand, jump, spring, barrels, etc. Whereas for construction work it is justified to use manual option, which is interconnected bars and steps. And although it is quite problematic to move around on such stilts, they are still sufficiently stable for carrying out various construction works.

In order to make building stilts with your own hands, you should prepare the following components:

• Wooden beams with a section of 50x50mm and a length of up to 2500mm. It is advisable to use hardwood.
• Pieces of boards or plywood. For the formation of supports.
• Sheet rubber.
• Fastening materials (bolts, screws, etc.).

The work algorithm assumes the following:

First, the wooden components are prepared for later use. Why use a planer to remove sharp edges and notches from the beams. In addition, the places that will be used by the user for holding should be sanded with sandpaper and additional impregnation. The resulting bars will act as stilt racks.

Next, on the end of each rack, using self-tapping screws, you should fix the boards (or pieces of plywood) perpendicularly, which will act as paws. In order to prevent the paws from slipping, it is recommended to additionally equip them with a rubber backing. The rubber is cut to fit the paw and glued to it with glue.

The final step at self-production construction stilts is the manufacture and installation of footboards (on which the user's feet will be located during the operation of the rig). For these purposes, you should first prepare the holes with which you can screw the footrests to the uprights.

The spacing of such holes is usually taken at 100 mm, and they are made so that it is possible to rearrange the footrests from 10 to 70 cm from the floor level. In view of this, 7 holes are made.

The footpegs themselves are usually made of timber, the size of which is equal to the size of the foot. And for the possibility of fixation, the corresponding holes should also be drilled in the footrests.

In the future, using bolts and nuts, the footrests are fixed at the required height, and at this the stilt manufacturing process is considered complete.

Of course, the resulting construction stilts are primitive and cannot be used in professional activities, while they are quite acceptable for home use.

Video review of homemade construction stilts:

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to your friends or leave a useful comment.

Walkers help babies learn to walk and give mom a few free minutes to do household chores. Young parents carefully choose products in stores, study the ratings of popular brands and look at the correspondence between price and quality. It is not necessary to spend the family budget on expensive goods, because you can make do-it-yourself walkers for children, taking into account the individual weight and height of the child.

How to make a walker yourself?

Materials:

• a sheet of polycarbonate or plastic;
• a pair of metal arcs (you can take reinforced ones);
• 6 small wheels for furniture;
• fabric in any shade you like;
• foam rubber.

The structure consists of two parts: upper and lower frames, which are held together by metal arcs. First you need to measure the dimensions of each of the frames, let's start from the bottom.

Step 1

Often, the width of the frame is 6-7 cm, and the diameter of the bottom is 65-75 centimeters. You can change the last indicator, depending on the width of the doorways. Use a construction knife to cut the frame to the required size and solder the sharp cuts. Then it's time to mark the places for mounting the wheels, drill holes for the fasteners and install the mechanism.

Step 2

Should now be cut upper frame... Its diameter may be slightly smaller than the lower one, but it should be optimal for the baby to fit comfortably inside. It is recommended to cover the surface with a fabric of bright colors, having previously glued the base with foam rubber.

Step 3

The height of the structure is determined by the height of the child, or rather the length of his legs + 4-6 cm. How to assemble a walker? After taking measurements, the metal arcs are cut in accordance with required size and are fixed at the base of each of the frames, crossing with each other.

How to make a walker with your own hands? We sew a seat

The main part of the structure is ready, it remains to cut, sew and attach the seat. You will need:

• the cloth;
• scissors;
• synthetic winterizer;
• sewing machine.

The picture shows a pattern with which you can sew universal walker seat... The back width depends on the diameter of your perfume top.

After creating the drawing, you need to transfer the drawing to the fabric and cut 2 identical parts. The same should be done with the padding polyester and put it between the textile blanks. Sew the details.

Secure the seat carefully with liquid nails, check for strength. Decorate the body of the walker bright accessories, appliqués and other creative finds. The gadget is ready to use!

Reference! A simple and affordable analogue previous version can become a regular toy wheelchair.

By balancing the gurney with books, cubes or other goods, you can turn it into a safe walker.

It would be a logical continuation to work out the issue of making mini-stilts that would be made of common man a real giant.

Step 1: sketch and materials

First, let's take measurements. We measure the length / width of the foot, as well as the height from the foot to the bottom of the knee joint. We will carefully work out the design of the stilts to make sure they are strong and stable.

Materials:

• Boards;
• Old tire;
• 10 cm (4 in.) Plastic sleeve;
• 10 cm (4 in.) Plastic plug;
• Nuts / bolts / washers;
• Short and long self-tapping screws;
• 5 cm nylon strap and 2 buckles;
• 2 leather belts;
• Metal fixing strip / corners;
• Foam (EVA).

Instruments:

• Drill / screwdriver;
• Building hair dryer;
• Hacksaw;
• Table circular;
• Hot glue gun;

Step 2: cut out the footrests

Let's cut the boards into pieces of a given length. Let's stand on them, circle the feet and cut a groove for the support mounts.

Cut off the ends of the "shoe sole" at an angle, then round off the edges with a file.

Step 3: cut the tire

We go to the nearest tire fitting and beg for a "bald" tire.

Cutting tires is pretty troublesome. All due to the fact that they are reinforced with a metal layer. At any affordable way, with any tool we cut out two strips of the required length. We fasten them on the "soles" with short self-tapping screws.

After everything is fixed, we cut off the excess.

Step 4: fix the slats

We dissolve the boards into slats, cut them into blanks of the required length, and then use them to assemble the shoes together. The slats should be flush with the edges of the stilts.

Step 5: add metal supports

Originally, a fastening strip was used as a support. But since it did not inspire confidence, the structure was too wobbly, I replaced it with a more durable metal corner.

Cut the plastic sleeve in half. Heat the plastic with a hair dryer and shape the staples to the shape of the leg.

Once the desired shape is achieved, drill holes in the plastic and secure them to the corner with nuts and bolts. Make sure the brace is located just below the knee. They will make walking on stilts more stable.

Step 6: lashing straps