According to what scheme is it correct to cut a pear in spring and autumn. Proper pruning pear, timing, old and young, columnar trees Proper pruning pear spring scheme

Pear pruning takes place regularly for many years, because the crown is constantly growing, thickening, aging. A tree grows according to a program laid down by nature, and a person corrects this process in order to receive a harvest, preferably annually.

What is pruning

For fruit trees use several pruning techniques depending on the time of year, the age of the tree and the goal.

Trimming types:

Formative - is of decisive importance in the first 5-6 years, when the active formation of the crown of the fruit tree takes place; held in the spring.
Thinning - a permanent operation applied to a pear of any age; the tops that thicken the shoots are removed.
Sanitary - performed in the fall; remove incorrectly growing (inside the crown, rubbing), dry and diseased branches.
Rejuvenating - old trees need it, in which, as a rule, the upper half of the “trunk” dries out; pruning is done to healthy wood.

When is the best time to cut a pear?

Pruning is carried out in the spring at a temperature of 0 ° C to a stable +5 ° C, but before the start of sap flow, when the buds start to grow. Dates for regions are always individual, but, in general, this time comes in March-April.

In the summer, starting from June, tweezing is carried out - pinching off the tops of young shoots. What for? The forces for the growth of shoots in length are directed to the formation of fruits, the ripening of fruits is accelerated.

From late August to mid-September, when sap flow slows down, autumn pruning is carried out. Before frost, live wood on saw cuts and cuts will dry thoroughly and the risk of freezing will be minimal.

Pruning rules:

use a sharp tool, periodically disinfect it;
the branches are cut into a ring without leaving stumps that heal slowly, and are also overgrown with a brush of tops (what does it mean to cut into a ring? At the base of each branch there is a cambial ring - a thickening or influx at the point where the branch is attached to the trunk, the cut is made parallel to the outer side);
thick branches are cut in different ways:
- in the first run, half of the branch is cut, then the cut passes along the intended line;
- the first cut is made from below, the second and final from above (so the cut fragment does not pull the bark along with it, the cut is smooth and quickly tightens);
if the tree is running, the work is carried out in several stages so as not to weaken it;
saw cuts are covered with drying oil or paint based on it, garden pitch, paraffin or Rannet preparation (artificial bark);
remove a certain number of branches, because excessive pruning provokes the growth of a large number of tops.

The cut runs along the outer edge of the cambial ring

How do pears react to being cut?

Sometimes a pear does not react to pruning the way you would like it to, and grows "in the wrong steppe." Such disobedience depends on the variety and its inherent type of growth. So sometimes light pruning combined with other techniques, for example, bending.

There are varieties with apical (apical) dominance of shoots, there are with lateral ones. There are with good shoot formation, there are with bad ones. There are varieties with a right angle of shoots, there are with a sharp one (mesotonic and basitonic).
Varieties with a mesotonic type of branching with wide angle branch branches: In memory of Yakovlev, August dew, Swallow. It is a pleasure to form such varieties - we cut off a young seedling to a trunk height of + 20 cm and remove unnecessary side shoots in summer, the tree forms itself. The shaping scheme for such pears is sparse-tiered.
And such a variety as the Bryansk Beauty has apical dominance. Those. all the strength of growth goes into one single shoot, which simply clogs the rest. It is impossible to form such a tree by pruning! When pruning, one or two shoots are obtained, but with such sharp corners that they literally run parallel to the trunk. Such varieties form horizontal cordons. This is when one shoot is kicked out, and then it is bent. The shoots that have grown from the places of the bend are thinned out and again bent in the opposite direction, etc.

This technique cannot be bypassed - bending down or pulling the branches up (for drooping type crowns) to give them a horizontal position. It is on such branches that most flower buds are laid. Skeletal branches do not bend. Bending back non-lignified shoots in spring and summer is more productive, safer, easier and takes less time. With spring bending, the branches will quickly take new form, but if this is done in the fall, there will be zero sense - you can’t tell a sleeping branch that you need to fix yourself in a new position. Lignified branches are also bent, but this is much harder to do, it will take physical strength and extreme caution so as not to break anything off. The process takes place gradually, step by step, so it will not be possible to meet in one season.

Acute angles of branching - a zone of constant risk

If a branch moves away from the trunk at the desired (not sharp) angle, and then rushes sharply into the sky, it is deflected to a more horizontal position. A loop of twine is attached at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the branch from the trunk, the second end is fixed to a stake hammered into the ground or to the trunk, or a spacer is placed between the branch and the trunk. Too deviated branches are attracted upwards, which interfere with weeding and loosening the ground. They are fixed to the trunk or to a pole, which is tied to the trunk. A ring is attached to the upper end of the pole, through which one or more garters are passed. To prevent the string from cutting into the bark, a lining is placed on the branch under it. Otherwise, the cord or string will cut into the bark, disrupting the movement of nutrients, the branch dries out, becomes brittle and dies.

You can bend a pear branch in a variety of ways

Bending is great for shaping the crown of a pygmy pear. Branches 15 cm long are bent horizontally, the shoots are cut out at an acute angle, and the stem is shortened so that it is 40 cm higher than the top branch. cm) cut into several buds. Stronger dominant branches are cut into a ring, the central conductor is again shortened to the same height as before.

tweezing

It is carried out in June with the help of secateurs or fingers. The top of a young growth with 4–5 leaves is pinched. After 10 days, the procedure is repeated, i.e., tweezing will take place three times in a month. Pinching slows down the growth of the crown in length and nutrients flow to the fruits.

Video: pear tweezing in summer

The secret of pruning pear with a different crown shape

In general, pruning technology is the same for a tree with any crown shape, but there is little nuance. In pyramidal pears, the crown is “unfolded” - the shoots are cut to the outer bud, that is, located on the outside. New shoots grow more deviated, more flower buds are laid on them, the crown becomes more magnificent, better illuminated. You can replace the pruning of branches growing up by bending down.

Formation of a crown-shaped crown

The crown of pears with drooping shoots is raised: a cut on a branch passes over the inner bud. In the future, the growth is turned inside the crown and, as it were, lifts it. This technique in no way impairs fruiting, but makes the crown more compact and facilitates the cultivation of the earth in near-stem circles.

Forming a pear in the form of a bowl

The crown is given the appropriate shape by sawing off the central conductor on purpose or when it is frozen, sick or dried out. Skeletal branches of the first order surround the resulting void and the whole picture resembles a bowl. The advantage of this form is that the branches, both outside and inside, receive enough sunlight and are well ventilated.

Formation of the cup crown

Video: the main types of pear shaping

Pruning a young pear in spring

Purpose of pruning young tree consists in the gradual formation of a ventilated and well-lit crown that can withstand the load of fruits.

What is a "year-old"

This kind word often referred to as annual seedlings. By the way, novice gardeners may have difficulty determining the age of a seedling. The answer is simple: a seedling that has lived through a season is considered an annual. That is, a pear planted last fall or this spring is considered an annual.

Before buying a pear seedling of a favorite variety, the first thing to do is evaluate the condition of the root system - it should be fibrous, with whole tips, moistened. If the plant is sold with a closed root system (in a bag), lightly pick the bark with your fingernail. The lower layer of green color indicates that the seedling is alive and healthy, if brown is dry, there will be no sense from it.

The yearling usually has a length of 80-100 cm and looks like a twig, as a rule, without lateral shoots or there will be one or two, but very short ones. Therefore, pruning at the first stage is the most unpretentious and will not raise questions even for the “teapot”.

Trimming an annual pear

The seedling is planted according to all the rules on permanent place, fixed to the peg and immediately after that cut off with secateurs. Pears grafted on a vigorous seed rootstock are cut at a height of 70 cm from the ground directly above the bud. And seedlings obtained by grafting on a vegetatively propagated rootstock (dwarf) are shortened to a height of up to 50 cm. (Such nuances are specified with the seller). If you had to plant a pear with damaged roots, it is cut a little more, by about 10 cm, giving it the strength to restore the roots.

Seedling metamorphoses during the first year

A shortened stem (or central conductor) will still grow upwards, it will shoot from the upper bud under the cut, and a few side shoots will also appear. At first, they will be grassy - green, delicate and thin, and only with time will turn into powerful skeletal branches. The skeleton, in turn, will be overgrown with semi-skeletal twigs with leaves, buds and flowers. After some time, growth will appear below the vaccination site, which should be removed. It will draw some of the nutrients onto itself, create a shadow, but it will not give high-quality fruits.

Learning to cut a branch correctly

Pruning a pear seedling for the second year

Two-year-old seedlings usually grow 6–8 side shoots, from which skeletal branches are formed. To do this, leave 3–4 branches (the rest are cut into a ring), evenly spaced around the circumference and spaced from each other in height by about 15–20 cm. the trunk, and the spokes are the side shoots. Only in our case, these spokes, i.e., shoots, are not located on the same level, but each is slightly higher than the other. The angle of deviation of the skeletal branches from the trunk should not be too sharp - 45-50 °. Anywhere in the tree, similar sharp joints at strong wind easily split, leaving deep wounds that are difficult to heal.

An acute angle is the most unreliable for a tree, it splits easily

The skeletal branches are cut ¼ to the outer bud, but in such a way that each of them is slightly lower than the previous one. Thus, the principle of subordination is fulfilled - the branches growing below should not rise above the ones growing above. Lateral branches at the ends of skeletal branches, resembling bird's feet, make the continuation shoot shorter. The central conductor (trunk) is cut so that it rises 25 cm above the rest. If a competitor shoot has grown near the central conductor (and it will definitely grow at an acute angle), it is cut into a ring. If the pear rapidly stretches upwards, the central conductor is cut to the first weak side shoot, and in order for it to grow vertically, it is pulled to the peg with twine.

Pruning a two-year-old pear

Competitors also grow on skeletal branches (the end of the shoot resembles a bunch), they are also cut into a ring. After pruning, nitrogen fertilizing is excluded so that the tree uses all its strength to heal the saw cuts, and not build up the green mass. It happens that one branch grows over another. In the future, the top one will obscure the bottom one, they will get mixed up, so one of them is removed.

Pruning a three year old pear

For the first sitting, the central conductor is cut off by ¼ of the height, about 25 cm are left from the new growth, the rest is cut off already on the inner kidney (so that the crown is not sprawling). The next season, the competitors of the central conductor will also amputate on the skeletal branches. Powerful tops are cut into a ring, and thin ones are bent, shortened by a quarter, turning them into semi-skeletal productive branches. Remove all branches with an acute angle of departure, as well as violating the harmonious structure of the crown. If the stem is low and the lower skeletal branches lean towards the ground, they are shortened. In general, pruning a three-year-old tree is similar to working with a two-year-old seedling.

Trimming a three-year-old and a two-year-old pear is very similar

Pruning a four-year-old pear

At this age, the second tier is laid, observing the already known rules:

to avoid sharp corners departure of a branch from the trunk;
removal of competitors;
subordination - the upper tier should not overlap the lower one, the central conductor is longer than the branches.

Annual growths on four-year-old pears are not shortened, so as not to activate growth processes. Branches that stand out from the general pattern are cut into an annual ring or fruitful wood; eliminate wolves.

Pruning a four-year-old pear also comes down mainly to thinning and eliminating competing shoots.

mature trees

By the age of five, the crown of a pear is considered formed and does not require special intervention for several years. A tree aged 6 to 8 years looks like a self-sufficient bourgeois with a leisurely life schedule. The shortening of branches is minimized, because their annual growth is noticeably reduced. Pruning is mainly aimed at maintaining a good sanitary condition of the tree.

Over time, the crown of adult pears gradually thickens and the overgrown branches will receive less sunlight. In this case, thinning is carried out, which is stretched for 2-3 years. Why so long? To maintain a balance between the crown and its "reflection" - the roots. The thinning procedure begins in the spring. In one sitting, two-three-year-old thick branches are cut down inside the crown into a replacement knot, the diameter of which is half the diameter of the central conductor. No more than two such branches are removed at a time.

Replacement pruning helps replace old branches with new ones

The branch is shortened to a fruiting branch, and the shoot located below is cut into two buds - this will be a replacement knot. By the way, when they say “cut into two or five, etc. buds”, this means that this number of buds remains on the shortened shoot. The following year, shoots grow from the abandoned buds on the replacement knot. They will perform the functions of the previous branch, therefore they are also called replacements. The trunk or central conductor is shortened to 3–3.5 m. Places near the cuts are overgrown with a brush of young shoots (future tops) from awakened buds, they are broken out at the end of May.

It’s good to teach others when the pear itself under the window is begging (now I just feel it) to be “combed”. The tree is 10 years old appearance reminiscent of cypress, height 3 m. Fruits in a year, the minimum fruit weight is 250 g, no one remembers the name of the variety. So, on this specimen, it is necessary to remove the competitors of the central conductor, subordinate the skeletal branches and cut them to the external kidney. Having done some magic in Paint, I got a pretty nice version of the updated pear.

Removing many competitors and trimming side branches should encourage lateral branching.

Video: pruning an adult pear

Pruning an old pear

A tree of 15 years and older is considered an aksakal and requires radical rejuvenation. A signal for this is a decrease in growth to 15–20 cm. Rejuvenating pear pruning is carried out gradually over two to three seasons, and work begins in the spring before bud break. Rejuvenation is best done after a lean year, when an abundance of flower buds has formed on the tree.

After rejuvenating pruning, bald branches are overgrown with twigs

If there are several thick dry branches, several are cut down every year, the wounds are covered with garden pitch. Then the cuts are wrapped with a dark film until September, so the cuts will tighten 2–3 times faster. Annual growth is shortened by ¼ of its overall length. They also cut off the “wrong” branches - growing inward, vertically and crossing.

Pruning dead trees

Depending on the degree of frost damage, appropriate pruning is carried out. If the top of an annual pear planted in autumn is frozen, it is cut to 1/3 of the length. However, this operation is shown to all one-year-old seedlings, so the frost does not seem to cause much harm.

In older trees with a developed system of branches, pruning is more rigid. First, the branches are examined, revealing lesions - the wood in these places is brown or black. If the branch is mostly or completely frozen, it is cut into a ring. Affected upper parts are cut to healthy wood.

Gradual pruning of thick branches is convenient for humans and does not injure the tree

When performing such pruning, they think first of all about the health of the tree, the beauty of the crown is relegated to the background. It is important that dormant buds wake up, which will give impetus to the growth of new shoots. And only after the fouling of the "stumps" with branches it will be possible to talk about the formation of the crown.

Features of pear pruning in various regions, including Siberia

In the zone of risky gardening, especially in the Urals, in Siberia, pear pruning is cultivated by a bush. A tree of just this shape is easier to cover in a frosty winter. To do this, form a bole 10–15 cm high, skeletal branches are placed in random order. The formation of the crown of young trees is accompanied by moderate pruning of skeletal branches and thinning of semi-skeletal ones. In the fifth year, the central conductor is shortened at the level of the upper skeletal branches of the first order. It turns out a tree-bush with a height of about 2–2.5 m, and more is not needed. Crown restoration is carried out at the expense of tops, shortening them by a third of the length.

In the most inappropriate, at first glance, regions, a slate crown shape is practiced. Seedlings are planted at an inclination of 45 ° with their heads to the south, and within three years they form 2–4 skeletal branches about 1 meter long, constantly bending them down. Then, 2 vertical shoots are left on each branch, cutting off all the rest.

A completely different picture is emerging in the Crimea with a favorable climate. Here pear pruning can be carried out practically all year round, the risk of frost occurs only in certain years, which is rare.

Illiterate rejuvenation of an overgrown pear at a Stakhanov pace in one season (up to 3–4 m in height and diameter) is fraught with freezing of the tree even mild winter. And if you cut the crown gradually, every year by 1–2 m in height and width, it will take several years and all this time the yield will be barely. Starting from the Central region, it is recommended to apply anti-aging pruning according to the method of V. I. Susov (Moscow Agricultural Academy named after K. A. Timiryazev). Its essence lies in the gradual thinning of the crown, starting from the half that is most illuminated by the sun.

The cut off part of the crown should be 3 m high and 2 m wide. Outwardly, the picture is somewhat reminiscent of a pie from which a wedge was cut. Half of the tops that have appeared are cut into a ring, the rest are shortened and bent to stimulate the formation of flower buds. All this time, the remaining wilds continue to delight with juicy large fruits.

Original rejuvenation of a fruit tree according to the method of V. I. Susov

When, after 4-5 years, the tops begin to bear fruit, they rejuvenate the second part of the crown and at the same time rejuvenate the roots. To do this, in the fall or spring in the year of pruning, under the cut off part of the crown, they dig a semicircular trench 75 cm deep at a distance of 2 m from the trunk according to the width of the cut crown. Exposed large and small roots are cut with an ax or cut with a saw. This operation stimulates the process of root formation. (Note that such work requires certain skills, if not mastery). The ditch is covered with humus and top layer excavated land in a ratio of 1:1. For heavy soil add river sand and pebbles in the amount of 20% of the total volume of excavated land. At the same time, the winter hardiness of the pear remains at the same level, and the life span is extended by 20–30 years.

Video: pear crown pruning for beginner gardeners

Decisive for a pear is the first 3-4 years of life, when their crown is formed. The following years are devoted mainly to maintaining the crown in good shape. The quality of pruning and the health of the pear depends on correct technique cutting, protection of cuts, cleanliness of the tool and timely work.

Growing a pear is a simple undertaking consisting of irrigation, fertilization and pruning, which is done in spring and autumn. If the crown is adjusted annually by removing excess shoots, the pear tree will bear many sweet fruits and delight in health. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the features of this important part of tree care.

Trimming methods and types

Pears are cut using two methods:

shortening - cutting off the crown part of the branch;
thinning - complete cutting off of the shoot to the ring.

Adjusting the height of the tree and the density of the crown facilitates harvesting, pest and disease control. In columnar pears, pruning is aimed at thinning out growths, giving a decorative look.

According to the intended purpose, the following types of trimming are distinguished.

Formative. It is used for young individuals before entering the time of fruiting. Provides for the creation of a solid skeleton of a certain shape.
Supportive. Need specimens that have entered the time of fruiting. By adjusting the number of fruiting branches, the tree manages to correctly distribute nutrients, which favorably affects the quantity and quality of the crop.
Anti-aging. Applicable to mature specimens that have stepped over half their lifespan. Based on the removal of barren wood. Stimulates the growth of new fruit formations, prolongs fruiting and the life of the culture.

By proper annual pruning, you can get sweet juicy fruits, because sugars in them accumulate only under the influence of solar radiation.

When to prune a pear tree?

Pruned pear throughout the growing season. For beginners, it is important to know that the bulk of the activities are carried out during the dormant period of the plant.

Spring and summer work

Every spring, to maintain the balance of the branches, the crown is shaped, old shoots are cut out, and excess shoots that thicken the crown are removed. Of the shortcomings of spring pruning, unstable weather and tight deadlines are noted.

Therefore, it is important to adhere to the following rules.

Choose a date for the event in accordance with the weather conditions of the region.
Proceed with the adjustment after a stable positive temperature is established.
Check with the weather forecast to rule out return frosts.
In the spring, the pear must be cut strictly before the juice begins to move, while the plant is at rest.

In summer, the plant is not subjected to global intervention. Only diseased or broken branches under the mass of fruit are cut.

autumn pear pruning

Autumn is considered the optimal time for corrective work. In Central Russia and a more severe climate, pear pruning should be done at the very beginning of autumn. In the South of Russia, a later haircut is allowed, which is held in October.

Autumn work involves cutting off damaged and diseased branches, shortening annual growth by a third, and adjusting the silhouette.

If a large number of branches are to be removed, it is better not to risk the health of the tree and leave part of the work for the spring.

It is not worth cutting the tree too much for the winter, the cuts are subject to severe freezing.

Carrying out work in winter

Benefits of winter pruning:

you can see the crown well due to the lack of foliage;
the pear is at rest, the cuts will not cause any tangible damage to it;
infection of the wound with fungi is excluded;
the lack of juice in the wound surface allows the cut to tighten faster.

It should be remembered that in winter it is permissible to form a crown only in adult specimens that have entered the fruiting season. It is necessary to hold the event after the termination severe frosts as soon as the temperature stops dropping below -15⁰C.

Required Tools

To cut fruit crops, you will have to acquire a whole set of tools.

You will need:

secateurs;
garden saw;
delimber;
garden shears and a knife;
garden var or other composition for the treatment of wounds.

All can be bought at the garden center. Be sure to maintain the sharpness of sharpening, disinfect the tool before and after trimming.

To disinfect the instrument, you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate, blue vitriol, alcohol, bleach.

Pear pruning rules

Correction of the pear crown in autumn is aimed at achieving a high and high-quality harvest next year.

You can get the desired result only if the following rules are observed.

Do not remove more than 25% of the total wood mass at a time. In order not to cause severe stress to the plant, stretch the event over several seasons.
The pruner should be directed with a small blade towards the shoot to be removed.
Make a cut on the ring, avoiding the formation of gouges or stumps.
Skeleton shoots big size cut out in stages - first the file is made from below, then from above. This approach will avoid tearing the bark.
The wounds are smeared with garden pitch or special composition based on natural paint (linseed oil).

If cardinal pruning carried out in the spring, exclude the introduction of top dressing. The tree will redistribute soil resources among the remaining shoots.

How to properly cut different types of pears?

Pruning technology depends not only on the time of year, but also on the variety of pear, its age.

The primary formation of the seedling is carried out only in the spring of the next year, since the risk of freezing of the young is high. The seedling will hurt for the first time after planting due to damage to the roots. Pruning part of the shoots will help speed up the adaptation process.

In a young pear, in the first 4-5 years, it is necessary to form the correct skeleton that can withstand the weight of the fruit. This quality is favored by a sparse-tiered crown of a pyramidal shape.

For shaping, use the following scheme.

Shorten the height of the stem of the seedling by a quarter.
Choose 2-4 branches to create the bottom tier.
Balance the length of the branches and the conductor by cutting the branches so that the trunk is 20 cm longer.
Cut off the rest of the growth.
If the branches grow at the wrong angle (more than 60⁰), immediately start bending. To do this, tie them to a peg, after tilting them in a horizontal direction.
After 1-2 years, you can begin to form the second tier of the skeleton. The procedure remains the same.
When the plant is 5-6 years old, cut the conductor at the height of the upper branch of the skeleton. This will limit the upward growth of the tree.

In the future, autumn pruning is supportive. Annually, a third of the annual growths are removed, old and diseased branches, tops are cut off. Thin out the crown, directing the branches to the outside.

Correction of the crown of a ripe pear

An old pear needs rejuvenating pruning to increase productivity. The event is reduced to the removal of branches that have ceased to bear fruit. The best way to prune a tree in early spring. Mature specimens are pruned in stages, trying not to cause serious damage to the tree. For 3-4 years, two tiers of powerful skeletal branches (5-7 pieces) should be left on the trunk, located in 1 meter increments. In addition to rejuvenation, be sure to maintain the correct density, balance of branches.

Do not expect a large harvest from a rejuvenated pear. Over time, the tree will distribute resources and resume fruiting.

Formation of columnar trees

The columnar pear is a low tree up to two meters tall. This culture does not have intensive lateral shoots. On the trunk are short fruit twigs. Pruning is carried out in order to rarefy and preserve the compactness of the culture. To increase yields, some of the branches are completely removed in the fall, providing good ventilation and illumination for fruit development. The remaining shoots are cut at the level of the second or third kidney. The crown of the columnar pear is never trimmed.

Knowing how to properly prune a pear, you can achieve maximum crop productivity, avoid possible problems with fungal diseases. The event will help maintain the necessary dimensions of the culture, facilitate the care process.

The formation of a pear crown is an important procedure, if not vital for a fruit tree. Especially if the gardener wants to harvest a regular rich harvest. Pear pruning is carried out in different seasons and has different purposes. Do you want to know which ones? Then read on.

As soon as the pear planted by you enters the fruiting period, it needs regular shaping pruning. And the point is not only that it is much easier to harvest from the branches of a formed tree - you will also notice a significant increase in the number of fruits. In addition, such a procedure will benefit the plant itself:

the culture is rejuvenated;
branches are strengthened;
if you regularly trim the crown of a pear, you will be able to form its high-quality skeleton;
pear crown formation has a beneficial effect on the condition of the bark;
with the help of such a procedure it is possible to extend the period of active fruiting;
more sunlight gets to the ovaries;
the taste of fruits improves, they themselves increase in size;
kronirovanie has and medicinal properties- the procedure is preventive measure to diseases that are carried by pests that live in cracks in the bark.

If you neglect the pruning procedure and do not carry out regular crown formation, it will only take a few years for your pear to irrevocably run wild.

Another problem that almost all gardeners face is spinning tops. These are powerful side shoots (formed on skeletal branches) that must be removed. Before forming a pear crown, be sure to check for tops - we remove them first. Spinning tops never give fruit, but only thicken the crown, taking away from the tree vitality. The tops always develop the most powerful foliage, which also feeds on the juices of the plant.

Tops are easy to recognize - they almost always grow strictly vertically.

Types and purposes of bookings

No matter how old your tree is, its crown is formed in two main ways - thinning (when the branches are removed directly at the base) and shortening (when only part of the fruiting cutting is cut off so that the branches become thicker and rejuvenated).

As for the main goals of the procedure, there are 3 of them:

Formation. Creating a clear shape of the crown of a young pear.
Support. We maintain yield indicators, take care of the health of the tree.
Rejuvenation. Extension of the period of fruiting culture.

Features of pruning in winter

Any manipulations related to cropping, better in winter do not carry out. But if you're serious about gardening, it's best to do it in February, choosing a relatively warm day when the air temperature doesn't drop below -15°C. It is advisable to start with those trees that are already several years old - in such plants, the buds wake up much earlier.

Features of pruning in the spring

Most experienced gardeners are unanimous in their opinion that spring pruning is optimal. fruit crops. During this period, the pear leaves have not yet woken up, there is practically no sap flow, so it will be easier for the tree to overcome the consequences of the procedure. You need to choose the time for the manipulations so as to protect your garden from sudden frosts and strong temperature fluctuations.

How to properly and when to prune a pear in spring will depend on the region in which it grows. So, in the southern gardens, this procedure is carried out in the first two weeks of March, in middle lane Russia and further to the east - no later than in the first days of April.

Pear seedlings at the age of 1–2 years are best tolerated by spring pruning. For all other trees, the following scheme is practiced:

remove all branches and shoots on which clear signs of freezing are visible;
we remove all shoots that grow incorrectly or crookedly;
we shorten the trunk - by about 25%.

There is one trick that will help to minimally injure the bark in the area of cut branches: when you cut the shoot “on the ring”, first file it from the bottom, and only then cut it off completely.

After such manipulations, the active development of the lateral shoots of the tree begins, those buds that are located below the cuts wake up.

Features of pruning in the summer

Pruning pear trees in the summer is worth it only if necessary. Such manipulation is allowed no later than June, while only damaged branches or too violent young shoots can be removed without resorting to radical shaping measures.

Features of pruning in the fall

Autumn manipulations with the crown are sanitary in nature. All dried branches are removed from the tree, one-year-old lashes are cut by about a third. It is important to choose the right time: there should be no frost for the next three weeks after the procedure, so try to cope with all the manipulations in early September.

Pruning of seedlings, young and old trees

For the first time, pear seedlings after planting are subject to pruning in the fall. On the main shoot, you should select the first bud, from which we will determine the shoots to be pruned. Three ovaries located above the first kidney must also be removed. Now we find the fifth kidney, located on the opposite side of the trunk - it will become the basis for the second branch of the crown skeleton. But the kidneys from 6 to 8 should be removed.

As a rule, any manipulations when planting a young tree give it the opportunity to actively form a crown.

In the second year after planting, young pears should be shortened by about a quarter of their height. In addition, it is necessary to remove all branching shoots, cutting them to the first bud.

In the next few years, all pruning manipulations will be identical - you form a crown and carry out sanitary cleaning. From about the fifth year of the tree's life, the growth of lateral shoots will gradually stop, so the intensity of work is reduced. For the next 5–7 years, you will have only sanitary pruning for purely medicinal purposes.

Formation of the crown of columnar pears

The cultivation of columnar fruit trees in our country is rapidly gaining popularity - it is customary to plant them on almost every personal plot. Planting and caring for a columnar pear is not difficult, with one exception - the trees need regular pruning.

Before proceeding with the procedure, carefully examine the top: if the kidney is healthy, the tree has a central conductor; if not, you should choose the strongest side shoot, removing all others. In a young seedling, it is better to shorten the side shoots - this way you will not provoke their intensive growth.

Now you know what to do so that your pear garden is always generous in harvest.

Video "Formation of the crown of a pear"

From this video you will learn how to properly form a pear crown.

In order for the pear tree to develop quickly and delight us with a bountiful harvest, you need to know only three rules:

Proper planting of the tree;
Proper processing of a pear, which includes:
- root feeding;
- mulching;
- pruning;
- watering;
- foliar feeding.
Proper winter care

Spring pruning: goals, tasks and types

Pruning a fruit tree has several purposes:

thinning and crown shaping that provides maximum amount sunlight, which is very important for such a light and heat-loving tree as a pear;
reduction in the growth of young shoots, which allows you to redirect the influx of juices and nutrients to the fruits;
controlling the height of a tree that can obscure its neighbors and prevent them from developing properly.

The tasks that the gardener faces in the process of pruning a fruit tree is the correct sequence of actions, which is the key to an excellent result.

Trimming types:

forming - the creation of the correct crown;
sanitary - removal of diseased or dried branches;
rejuvenating (supporting) - removal of a part of large branches.

Before you start pruning fruit trees, you need to read the recommendations from specialist gardeners.If you start pruning without knowing the basic rules, there is a high risk of seriously damaging the tree., which will either lead to its death or to the destruction of the crop.

Timing pruning pears in spring

The exact timing of this type of care is difficult to determine unambiguously, because it depends on the region of growth and on specific weather conditions.

Spring pruning of pear trees should be started before sap flow in the branches, that is, after the time of frost has passed, at a stable daytime temperature of +5°C . In temperate Russian latitudes, this period usually begins in the 3rd decade of March or at the very beginning of April. Thus, mid-March is the time of sanitary pruning, April-May is the period of the main pruning.

It is also worth listening to the recommendations of the lunar calendar: successful pruning should be carried out with a waning moon, a few days before the new moon. Manipulation is especially effective if it is performed on Fruit Days. This is the name of the days when the moon passes the signs of Leo, Sagittarius and Aries.

Find out the exact auspicious days for pear cutting lunar calendar in the spring of 2019, you can at.

Always use only sharp and clean tools for work, which must be disinfected before and after it.
Before you start pruning a pear, prepare a garden var or Rannet preparation for processing cuts.
Do not prune the tree at freezing temperatures.
Decide in advance what age pear tree you are going to prune, as the sequence of pruning is different for young and old trees.
Priority is correct formation pear crowns, otherwise, breaks and death of the tree are likely. More on video:

As the pear grows older, the rate of emergence of shoots decreases, shaping pruning is allowed to be carried out every two to four years, but this does not negate the annual sanitary pruning, since there are always broken or frozen branches on an overwintered pear tree.
You don’t need to prune the trees too much at one time, because in this way they will activate all their forces for a speedy recovery, they will release new shoots that will overtake the height of the tree in a couple of years. It is best to divide this process into several parts of the stages - some branches are pruned in the first year, the second part - after a year.
It is always necessary to remove shoots growing parallel to the central trunk - they do not bear fruit, but at the same time they “take away” water and nutrients.
On the trunk always have to leave at least four side branches, which should be located at an angle of 45 °.
When cutting branches, do not remove excess, but do not leave stumps either. The reference point should be an annular influx on the bark (“ring”), perfectly distinguishable at the base of the branches. It is there that tissues “live” that will help to quickly heal wounds to restore the tree. If the incision is made too deep, the wound will heal for a very long time.

Correct spring pruning

Tools : most often, a garden pruner with a narrow blade is used to perform this work.To trim the old branches of neglected trees, a manual or even a chainsaw is used.

pear trees different ages cut differently:

Annual seedlings are cut at a height of about 50-70 cm from the ground, which leads to the growth of branches from the lower buds.

If we are dealing with a two-year-old seedling, its main stem is cut off by 25%, and competing branches are cut off under the “ring”.

At a mature tree, under whichmean pears 8-10 years old,extra branches are removed, which become too much, ramifications , resulting in nutritional deficiencies.At the same time, both thinning of the crown and shortening of the shoots are important.

Old trees are pruned immediately after the end of the winter cold, but only until leaves and buds appear on the branches,while rejuvenating pruning begins with the lower branches, with a gradual transition to the upper ones. In the middle and end of spring, only young shoots shorten in such pears.

Proper, consistent pruning of a pear tree throughout its life helps increase yields and reduces the risk of disease. The gardener's mistakes, due to his inexperience or unwillingness to adhere to the rules, when pruning a pear can lead to best case, deterioration in productivity, at worst - to the death of the fruit tree.

The sequence of actions when pruning pear trees:

Delete shoots that grow from the trunk at an angle of 90 °.
cut off those that grow vertically and have a parallel direction to the central trunk.
We cut the skeletal branches by about 25%, while we follow so that their tops are even.
The shoots, which are the "base" for the formation of a new ovary, must be carefully bent down or given a horizontal position by tying them.

The technique of cutting branches is also important:

branches , diameter of which is thicker than three centimeters,cut as follows:first make an inscription from below, then go up. Otherwise, the bark may be damaged, and the branch will break under the weight.

And so the spring pruning of the pear was carried out in accordance with all the rules, but it should be remembered that the subsequent care of the tree is also important:

We saw the saw places with garden pitch. If this work is not carried out, the trees will begin to "cry" and secrete juice, which will become a real bait for insects and weaken the tree.For young seedlings, it is better to do this procedure not on the same day, but on the next day, let the pruning sites dry out.
You should not “feed” the pear with top dressing after work, because the tree will restore itself, pulling all the substances and nutrients from the root system.

Video: Pear pruning in spring

In the summer, pear pruning, as a rule, is not carried out, but such a procedure in the fall will also help to achieve a good and high-quality harvest. More about it can be read in the article "".

There is no person who does not know the taste of a pear. These juicy and sweet fruits will not leave anyone indifferent. And what compotes and jams are obtained from them!

Nowadays pear can be found in almost any garden plot.

This tree, like any plant in the garden, requires some care. So that year after year it gives good harvest, you need not only watering and fertilizer, but also competent pruning.

Since the pear belongs to a light-loving culture, it is necessary to monitor the density of its crown.

What gives the correct pear pruning:

abundant regular fruiting;
further development of culture;
creating a strong skeleton;
convenience in harvesting;
good access when spraying.

It is necessary to form a crown so that several fruit branches remain on each skeletal branch.

If pruning is done irregularly or incorrectly, then the crown will be compacted, as the tree will begin to give all its strength to the cultivation of young shoots. This will lead to a decrease in yield and a decrease in the size of the fruit.

Another plus of timely pruning of branches: the pear tree is quite tall, and pruning branches will stop its growth upwards. Thanks to this, others garden trees and shrubs will get more sunlight.

Cut the pear, instructions for beginners:

When is the best time to prune the shoots and branches of a tree

You can cut the pear spring, summer, autumn, and even winter. Pruning at certain times of the year serves its purpose.

summer care

Summer is done only when absolutely necessary. It happens that in the spring, when pruning, they looked through several branches, and they began to develop intensively, shading the fruits that had already appeared on other pruned branches. In this case, summer pruning is possible.

A day after the “operation”, it is necessary to cover the cut with garden pitch or a special putty, which is sold in any gardening store.

Also at this time pinching of young shoots is carried out. It is much easier to remove them now, before they become stiff, in addition, thanks to this pruning, leaf buds are transformed into fruit buds.

Can branches be pruned in winter?

Winter pruning has some advantage. It lies in the fact that at this time of the year, when it is cold outside, all plants, including the pear, are in "sleep mode".

Therefore, the inflicted wounds are much easier to tolerate, healing occurs faster, and in the absence of sap, the wood becomes more pliable.

The best month for winter pruning is February. The most optimum temperature- not higher than -15.

Pruning scheme in spring

Spring pruning pear is considered the most important for the plant., it guarantees a good harvest. In the spring, as you know, the buds are born. This requires sunlight.

If in some place the crown turned out to be thickened, then a darkening will be created, respectively, there will be no flower buds there, which means there will be no fruits.

To avoid this, pruning should begin with a one-year-old seedling when its height reaches 50-60 cm.

You need to cut off the top by about a quarter of the length, which will stimulate the lower branches to grow and form the correct crown. The branches in the neighborhood are cut "on the ring".

Trimming "on the ring" is done clearly according to a kind of influx located at the very base of the branch. If you leave a large knot, this will lead to decay, and if you remove the branch flush, then the wound will heal for a very long time.

The branches that serve as the basis of the trunk should be left, they should not be more than four.

As the tree matures, there are fewer young shoots on it. To correct this situation and increase the number of young shoots on an aging tree, it is necessary to regularly trim the crown, rejuvenate it.

Its purpose is to remove weak and diseased old branches. Sections must be covered with pitch or paint.

But it is also impossible to be late with this either, it is important to have time to prune before the circulation of tree sap begins.

After spring pruning should not be applied under the pear nitrogen fertilizers . This can adversely affect the taste of the fruit. After hibernation, the tree itself actively draws all useful substances from the ground.

pear pruning:

How you can and should cut a pear in the fall, rejuvenate it

Need to treat autumn pruning with great care. Winter is ahead, if too many branches are removed, it will be difficult for the tree to survive the coming frosts.

The fact is that in September(namely, this is the best time for autumn pruning) tree sap continues to circulate, although it becomes slower.

The tree will begin to spend its reserves on winter period substances to "heal" the wounds left after pruning.

The scheme of the correct autumn pruning pear:

First, remove dry and diseased branches so that in winter, when they fall, they do not cripple healthy branches.
Find branches growing at right angles to the trunk and remove them too.
Remove branches that interfere with fruit development. The remaining branches, which seem superfluous, should only be shortened in order to remove them next year.
Do not leave large knots, but cut off “on a ring” (see above).

A young pear should be pruned every fall, or even twice a year, starting from the second year after planting. Reason: slow growth and poor cold winter tolerance.

mature trees early varieties ripening can be cut from the second half of August until September 15-20. The procedure is the same:

removal of damaged branches;
thinning of the thickened crown;
removal of branches affected by the disease;
shortening of shoots not older than one year.

At a later date, shortening is not recommended, as the possibility of freezing of shortened branches increases, which will lead to a decrease in yield.

Autumn pear pruning is the most effective way bring back a good harvest from an aging tree. This pruning can be called rejuvenating.

In addition, if earlier to form correct crown didn't have to, then such pruning will provide an opportunity for thinning, which will lead to the appearance of young fruitful shoots.

If the pear is over 18 years old, then it is recommended to trim it once every five years.

How to form a crown of a columnar pear

Not so long ago, in Russian gardens began to appear columnar pear, which has already managed to win the hearts of our gardeners. She differs from her tall "sisters" in her unpretentious care.

The main advantages of a columnar pear:

always gives a rich harvest;
on the same plot of land can be planted large quantity trees;
takes root well;
gives large fruits;
resistant to various diseases;
frost-resistant.

The disadvantages of this pear include the necessary regular pruning, as it is needed to maintain the specific shape and size of the tree. Another drawback is the short period of fruiting (about ten years).

In the first year after planting the pear should not be allowed to bloom so that the seedling gains strength for further growth.

Need next year make sure that a maximum of two flowers remain in one inflorescence to prevent the young tree from overloading with fruits.

Tip for beginner gardeners: before pruning, you need to pay attention to the apical bud. If it is healthy, then the tree has a central conductor.

If this kidney is damaged, then other shoots appear. Of these, the strongest should be left, the rest should be removed.

Columnar pear should not be circumcised often in order to prevent the increased formation of branches. In a young tree, the shoots should not be cut, but shortened, not forgetting to leave a pair of buds.

This should be done in autumn. Most importantly, remove all side shoots growing to the sides. The central conductor can be cut in only one case: if its development is not enough. Then two or three kidneys should be left.

Though pear requires constant care and causes a lot of trouble with pruning, she gives all of herself without a trace with her divine fruits, giving the gardener joy and enjoyment of the results of his work.