The fuse on the boiler control board is constantly on, what should I do? Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation

Hello everyone! I apologize for such a long silence, it's all to blame new year holidays... By the way, Happy New Year everyone !!!
And so: after replacing the gas valve, the boiler began to give error 02 this low level water in the system. Two considerations emerged: either the water level sensor is to blame, it stands at the top next to the heat exchanger, or the pump. There was no point in ringing the sensor, since I do not know the resistance of the working sensor, but the pump winding was broken! I could not restore the winding, the new pump costs 3900r. I tried to adapt the winding from another pump and from a fan, but to no avail!
After replacing the pump, the boiler started working without any errors!
Because of the jump in the springs, everything that was involved in the boiler went out of order, and this: The gas valve and the pump, the brains turned out to be intact, since they are powered by a pulsed power supply. However, I am satisfied with the boiler for 1.6 years, it worked flawlessly, and the assembly is excellent, almost all the parts are made of stainless steel .. but that's why there are 3 Amp fuses inside the boiler ???? the boiler consumes very little; it was connected to the network through a 100W lamp, the lamp was shining in the incandescent floor. I changed the 1A fuse, it has been working for the second day.
It was not possible to find the boiler circuit, but I measured the resistances of the new gas valve coils and the pump.!
Gas valve coils: 5.4 kOhm - 2 pieces
Modulator coil: 206 ohm
Pump: 236 Ohm
the pump has a capacity of 2.5 microfarads 400v
The flow sensors work simply: when water gets in, they close!
Flame sensor: 50-80 kOhm.
I close the topic! thank you all for your participation ....



With the development of modern low-rise construction and gas networks the boiler has become familiar household appliance in every house or apartment. Basically, after installation, the boiler does not give users any trouble. Modern boilers operate completely autonomously and require only regular Maintenance or inspection. In our opinion, the average operating time of the units before the first breakdown is 4 to 6 years. Some users face problems after 9 years, and some on the contrary - earlier. In this article, I will tell you what can be done if the boiler simply does not turn on, and also consider the most common malfunctions of gas boilers. Under the concept of “does not turn on” there can be completely different problems:

    No indication (display is off)

    The boiler does not light up

    The boiler does not work in a specific mode

Therefore, these different situations should be considered in detail separately. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that user intervention is sufficient to eliminate some malfunctions, but in some cases it is necessary to call a qualified specialist.

The boiler does not turn on - there is no indication

Almost all modern gas boilers equipped with a control board and information panel with liquid crystal display or LED indicators. If there is no indication, first of all, you need to make sure that the boiler is powered. Typically, the boiler is electrically connected through a separate "automatic" - check if it is on or not.

Most the right way make sure that power is supplied to the boiler - check with a multimeter in voltmeter mode for the presence of 220V at the point of connection to the boiler board. If there is no voltage, it is necessary to localize and fix the problem. V real life it so happens that someone from the household simply pulled the plug out of the socket.

Safety fuses

It is also worth paying attention to the location of the fuses. In some boilers, depending on the model (for example, Ariston, Buderus, Vaillant), the fuses are located on the board itself, and in some before connecting to the board. If there are no problems with connecting the electricity to the boiler, you should check the integrity of the fuses (with the same multi-tester in the “dialing” mode).

If the fuses are intact and there are 220 volts at the test points, but it is likely that the boiler does not turn on due to a malfunction of the control electronics.

If during the check it turned out that the fuses are blown, then there was at least a problem with the power supply. In this case, it would be correct to first conduct a study of the actuators (fan, pump, priority valve) and the boiler wiring for the presence short circuit... Nevertheless, in practice, even representatives of specialized organizations simply replace the fuses with serviceable ones and check the boiler in operation. If the fuses blow again, then the high-voltage parts of the boiler are sequentially turned off to identify problem place(This is not a recommendation for action! This approach is not entirely correct).

Several spare fuses are usually supplied with the boiler.

If the fuses blow out due to damage to any of the actuators, it must be replaced (or the cause of the short circuit removed). In the case when it is proved that the mechanisms (and wiring) are exactly working, the control board itself remains. Blown fuses indicate that there was an unacceptable load on the electronics (thunderstorm, impulse voltage surge in the network), therefore, the cause of the malfunction may also be a short circuit on the board itself.

Water (moisture) ingress on the board

Water ingress is one of the most unpleasant situations. Although the board is in a protective case, water can get inside due to leakage or condensation. It often ends up in the box by wire. Water ingress almost always causes damage to the board, in most cases irreparable. Typical stains and oxidation will be visible on the board from water.


Varistor and power supply

Often, if the boiler board is damaged, burnt or charred elements can be visually detected on it. A varistor is a protective element of the board that is installed at the input of the circuit. In most cases, this is a round part. of blue color(but not required). When the rated load is exceeded, the varistor is destroyed and opens the circuit. In some cases, if the varistor has helped prevent damage to the electronics, biting it out is enough to close the circuit break. Important! Although the circuit board will work without a varistor, it should be remembered that the varistor is a protective device and the correct solution would be to replace it. A power supply is a microcircuit that is also damaged primarily by impulse voltage surges or during a thunderstorm. If cracks or damage are visible on it, diagnostics will probably be required.

Display board

For some boiler models (Vaillant, Ariston, Navien), the control unit consists of a main board and an information board (display board). The boiler may also not turn on if the display board is broken. The display board, unlike the main one, is cheaper, but most often it is not repaired. In this case, a malfunction can only be identified by replacing a known good part.


If the gas boiler is working, there is an indication on the display, but it does not start or gives errors, further diagnostics is required.

The boiler does not light up

If the gas boiler does not thrive, then in most cases there will be an error signal on the information panel indicating its number or code, by which you can roughly find out in which boiler system the malfunction occurred and how critical it is. In all double-circuit boilers summer-winter operation mode switching is provided. V summer mode the boiler will not turn on to heat the room (the same is true when using weather-compensated automation or thermostats).

If the boiler does not light up and does not make any attempts to turn on (idle), when necessary, this may be an electronics malfunction, but such cases are rare and concern specific boiler models.

Usually, if there is a malfunction that prevents the boiler from working properly, the user will receive an error. That is, if the boiler does not ignite, you need to determine the error code and find its meaning in the equipment operation manual. Error codes with descriptions are always indicated there.


Next, we will consider the most common boiler malfunctions that users encounter. It is worth making a reservation here that mostly all modern boilers have the same basic structure and operating procedure. Nevertheless, in order to solve a specific problem on a specific boiler, you must at least familiarize yourself with the instructions for this boiler.

Several unsuccessful ignition attempts

This is the very first error code for most hardware manufacturers. For BAXI E01 boilers, for Arison 501 boilers, for Vaillant F28. Ignition of the gas-air mixture in the combustion chamber will occur under two conditions: the presence of gas at the burner nozzles and the presence of a spark. Gas enters the burner through the gas valve, the spark is generated by a transformer on the control board (or remote). A separate case should be noted the situation when ignition occurs, but the boiler cannot detect the presence of a flame and goes out (closes the gas supply valve).

The most common reasons are:

Phasing error... Often, gas boiler boards require that the polarity of the connection be observed. For the average user, this means that the position of the plug in the outlet matters. If the polarity of the connection is violated, the boiler does not see the presence of a flame, continues to ignite (crackle of the electrode) even when there is already a flame on the burner, then it turns off in an emergency. Even if you did not touch the plug, the polarity could change at the substation!

Ignition or flame ionization electrode... It can be separate or combined. The main problems can be associated with contamination (oxidation) of the electrode or its gap relative to the torch. A dirty ionization electrode prevents the board from detecting the presence of a flame and the operation stops.

High voltage wire. High voltage is generated by the transformer and is transmitted through the wire to the electrode, where it breaks down with a spark air gap between the torch and the electrode. If a characteristic crackling sound is heard, but the spark on the burner is not visually visible, it is possible that the breakdown occurs somewhere else. For example, there is a microcrack in the insulation of a high-voltage wire, and a breakdown occurs at the point of insulation failure on the case.


No gas on the burner... The gas valve controls the gas supply to the burner: it opens and modulates (gas dosing). Gas valves regulated and controlled by the control board. Accordingly, the cause of the problems may be a malfunction of the valve (or the need for adjustment), its electrical part or the control circuit on the board. The inspection of this device must be entrusted to a specialist. The lack of gas can also be associated with external factors: counter malfunction, dirty filters.

Control board. In some cases, the lack of ignition or flame control is caused by a malfunction of the boiler main board. This can be considered after others have been accurately verified. possible reasons which are described above.

Insufficient draft (the fan does not turn on)

Also a popular problem. If there is a problem with the removal of combustion products, the boiler will not start and ignite until it is completely eliminated. In more detail, such malfunctions and their solutions are described in a separate article -.

Insufficient water pressure (make-up required)

Traditional gas boilers operate in closed system heating, respectively, so that the boiler does not turn into a hydrogen bomb, there must be a minimum water pressure inside the heat exchanger (in fact, the presence of water and circulation there). The pressure is controlled by a special sensor - a pressure sensor. An additional mechanical pressure gauge is provided for the user in the boilers. Although the systems are closed, the pressure in them can drop over time (for example, water leaves through leaks in the connections). As soon as the water pressure in the boiler falls below the minimum level (0.5 - 0.7 bar), the boiler sensor detects a malfunction and blocks operation. In most cases, you just need to study the readings of a mechanical pressure gauge and recharge the system according to the instructions for the boiler.

The boiler does not work in DHW or heating mode

And finally, situations when the boiler does not work in a particular mode. They happen much less often compared to the rest. In this case, it is likely that the boiler will need to be diagnosed by a specialist. The process of firing up and operating the boiler in different modes is actually the same, except that in different modes there may be different power. In cooking mode hot water boiler power is usually full, but in heating mode it can be minimal. About problems at work DHW mode can be read in a separate article.

Summary

In this article, we have considered the most common cases when the boiler does not turn on or does not light up. No one anywhere on the Internet will definitely tell you why your boiler does not turn on, this requires at least an external examination. This material will help you to get acquainted in general with possible situations and was written based on our statistics for several years.

In the event of a malfunction, it is necessary to identify the error and read the boiler operation manual. Also, for many models of boilers, descriptions of errors with recommendations are on our website. Malfunctions can be simple, which the user can fix on their own, and complex ones that require qualified assistance and spare parts. We strongly do not recommend to perform any actions with the boiler, if there is no complete understanding of its structure and principles of operation, turn off protective devices or change the boiler operation scheme to restore its operation. If there is a malfunction, it must be eliminated! If the cause of the malfunction is not completely clear to you, it is better to call a specialist.

Ferroli boilers - Experts answer questions

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject f24 boiler worked normally for a year. Then he began to work intermittently. It works for a few seconds, goes out and lights up again, and so on all the time. Both during heating operation and during DHW operation. I checked the chimney system, everything is fine. Replacing the prestat gave nothing. I removed the plugs on the top cover of the boiler, it did not help. When I remove the casing of the sealed chamber, it works fine. What
could there be a reason?

Answer:

If the boiler does not show any error and the voltage is more than 200 volts, then the heating heat exchanger is most likely clogged. You can check by connecting a heating sensor for a few minutes in the air or, which is easier, by reducing the gas with a tap in front of the boiler. If the combustion interval has increased, then flushing is needed.

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject f 24 boiler does not cope, the coolant temperature does not rise above 40, and the potentiometer is 70. The heated area is 70m2. And indoors it is 12 degrees. What should be done?

Answer:

This means there is not enough flow. Here's what you need to do: check the return filter, check the pump power and find out if the main heat exchanger is clogged.

Question:

When the heating system is turned off, the pressure in the system drops to 0 (approximately a day to 0.5 when the ECO is off; or to 0 when the ECO is on in a few hours) and the DHW is also cut off accordingly. I add water. The pressure drops again after a while. When the heating is on, the pressure does not drop or does not drop very noticeably. Make-up once every 1-2 months.

Answer:

First of all you need expansion tank pump with nitrogen - air up to 0.8 bar - with the pressure on the water pressure gauge in the boiler = 0. And then look for a leak, check the explosive valve, whether water is leaving it.

Question:

After the installation of the Ferroli Domiproject 24 boiler, the hot water head was almost at the head cold water... Six months later, the pressure dropped. What could be the reasons? If this is scale formation in the secondary heat exchanger, then how to flush it and how, as well as how to avoid scale formation?

Answer:

There is no secondary heat exchanger in this boiler, here it is bithermal, and in it scale is formed in winter mode, especially when the flow sensor is not working and when hot water is leaking. You can wash it with sulfa acid, for example, or hydrochloric acid.

Question:

Please tell me, if the boiler is completely out, nothing burns and does not turn on, although the 220 comes on board, the fuses and varistor are intact, what has burned out?

Answer:

Switching power supply on board.

Question:

The Ferolli boiler worked for 2 weeks normally, after the arrival of the master from service center for the first start, the hot water supply ignites and blows off the flame. If I screw on the gas cock, it works fine. The heating works normally and with the gas valve fully open. How to fix it?

Answer:

If you can adjust the gas valve yourself, the instructions describe the procedure well enough, if you are not sure it is better to call a specialist again. It is necessary to adjust the MAX on the gas valve - with the "reset" button, go to the test mode, press the heating knob three times in the MAX if the flame breaks off with a key 10 counterclockwise, and then with the "reset" button go to the test mode, adjust the power for heating and ignition with the heating temperature knob -power for heating with a water temperature knob-ignition. Procedure 5 minutes

Question:

Hello, I have a problem with the hot water supply, the ventilation hatches are regularly turned off, the ventilation hatches have already been opened and the heating is turned off with the hatches closed. How to be?

Answer:

If everything is in order with the chimney, then the sensor - pressure switch must be checked.

Question:

Ferroli boiler in hot water supply mode. Periodically, in standby mode, the upper and lower LEDs start blinking (at the same time). When hot water is turned on after 3 minutes, the burner goes out, although the burner switch-on LED is on. Also, periodically, when hot water or heating is on, the upper and lower LEDs begin to flash alternately. Stabilizer ON-LiNE with inverter output
sinusoid and 220. The boiler has one heating season.

Answer:

First, check the dual temperature sensor.

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject boiler has been in operation for 1 month, it worked normally and in one night it began to make strange sounds similar to strong boiling (it was heard through closed door). The unit was turned off until the morning, in the morning I checked the pump, the supply voltage (there is a stabilizer) - everything is normal. I started the boiler - the sound returned, I think the scale was formed - I washed the heat exchanger, nothing helped - at a temperature of 40 and above, cacophony begins, if you open hot water - the sound disappears, you close it - it appears again.

Answer:

Perhaps the return filter is clogged, low flow through the heat exchanger - the heating system.

Question:

When the heating circuit heats up, above 55 degrees, the heat exchanger begins to make noise, as if boiling. Could the DHW temperature be exceeded due to a large circulation in the heating circuit? I set the temperature with the heating potentiometer from 45 to 60 degrees. For half an hour, the boiler was gaining temperature, then it began to emit hissing sounds, did not wait any longer, turned the knob to 55, the burner turned off.

I watched the parameters of the gas pressure, after ignition in the furnace, the pressure on the burner maximum, after about 10 seconds, drops to a minimum, so it burns for about five minutes then starts adding 10 pascal and stops. Somewhere at three millibars, it starts to make noise, it works for another three minutes, then after dialing a temperature of 55-60 degrees, it turns off.

I cleaned the boiler (pump, heat exchanger, furnace, filter) - it did not help, then I set the lower gas pressure setting to 40% lower than the passport one - the noise disappeared at 60 degrees. Paradox - take off the cover closed chamber combustion - the boiler does not make noise. When you put it on, it starts to make noise. What could be?

Answer:

Or scale in the heating circuit or some kind of dirt. It is necessary to rinse with a booster, if it helps - well, it does not help - install another heat exchanger or another boiler with separate heat exchangers.

Question:

I have the following problem. Ferroli boiler DOMIproject C24. When you turn off hot water circulation pump the heating circuit may not turn on. It does not turn on until the burner is ignited for heating. The water in the boiler boils and the red LED starts blinking. The boiler gets into an accident. This happens several times a day. How can you solve this problem yourself?

Answer:

Clean the DHW flow sensor.

Question:

The 2A fuses on the Ferroli DOMIproject C24 boiler burn out. What can be done?

Answer:

Just like that, the fuses cannot burn, you need to look for where the short circuit occurs, leading to the blowing of the fuse. First, check the operation of the pump.

Question:

I bought a Ferolli boiler and installed it. Uninterrupted SMART APC 750. Hot water goes without problems. I turn on the heating, the error "overheating protection has triggered" is displayed. The pump is not working. What to do?

Answer:

Unlock the pump shaft. If that doesn't work, connect the pump directly. If it does not work, replace the pump. If it doesn’t help - pay for repair.

Question:

There is such a problem. When the hot water is turned on, the Ferroli Domiproect F24 boiler periodically turns off the heating, and then starts up again. What could be the problem? The board has been replaced.

Answer:

It is necessary to adjust the operation of the gas valve - minimum power.

Question:

Tell me what could be. When I turn on the boiler, the red and yellow lights immediately turn on (they often blink, what can be in addition to the sensor? am I wrong?

Answer:

If you bridging the wires, the error does not disappear, the sensor needs to be replaced.

Question:

Ferroli DOMIcompact c24 boiler. Reduces pressure to 0. There are no leaks in the system. It appears to reset when hot water is on. Cold water supply pressure 2-3 atmospheres. The boiler worked for two years.

Answer:

There may be a breakdown between the circuits, and the pressure drops below the cold water supply pressure due to ejection. You most likely have a different problem! The expansion tank has lost air. The heating system cools down and the pressure drops when you turn on the DHW.

Question:

Tell me, is it possible to adjust the minimum pressure switch so that the boiler turns on at a pressure of 0.8 bar?

Answer:

There is an adjusting screw on the pressure sensor under the cap on the top.

Question:

Ferroli boiler Domicompact C 24 kW. There is a problem. The chimney is clean, the water and gas pressure is normal, but the boiler works as it pleases. I put 45C heats up normally, then like crazy. Turns on at any intervals. There is a leakage of the make-up tap into the heating system, but after the make-up I shut off the taps for supplying and dispensing hot water. What do you advise?

Answer:

Repair the make-up valve, check the NTC sensor (replace). According to NTC data, the boiler is turned on for heating. When t changes, the NTC resistance changes. If the readings are incorrect, then the boiler is also turned on inadequately. Alternatively, you can check the variable on the board.

Question:

Ferroli domicompact F 24 boiler, 4.5 years. The heat exchanger leaked last year. They called the master - sealed it. This winter, another problem arose: The heating temperature jumps set to 60 C, and the pipes are heated up to 80 C. The pressure in this case rolls over to 3.5 bar. Or it drops to 0. Tell me what is the problem?

Answer:

Replace NTC, bleed volume compensator and make maintenance.

Question:

The Ferroli Domicompact F24 boiler works with the room thermostat jumper removed. The problem surfaced when I connected the thermostat (COMPUTHERM Q7 RF). For a while, everything worked fine, then after opening the contacts in the thermostat receiver, the boiler continued to work as it did. Depending on the position of the temperature regulator, heating takes place, heating is turned off, the pump drives water. Thermostat
connected correctly and works for closing-opening - checked by the tester.

Moreover, when to turn it off completely, i.e. the jumper is removed the boiler is working, the DHW regulator is in what position on off it does not matter - everything is the same. Sometimes, after turning on the DHW, it turns off and then (as expected) works normally from the thermostat. Sometimes, after turning off the thermostat, it tries to start, but immediately turns off, so several times, after which the pump runs for 6 minutes and the boiler turns off. If possible, tell me what's the matter?

Answer:

Check the wires going from the board to the room thermostat connector. When the circuit is closed (or the thermostat has closed the contacts) - the boiler operates for heating, when it is open - it waits for the contacts to close to turn on the heating.

Question:

There is such a problem: the Ferroli DomiCompact F24 boiler works perfectly from the 220V network, and when the Leoton 500 watt converter is connected, the gas does not ignite. What to do?

Answer:

Turn the fork over.

Question:

I have a Ferolli DOMIcompact C24 boiler. Everything worked fine, and then suddenly, when the heating of the apartment was turned on, the pressure on the boiler began to rise sharply to 3 bar. To make it clearer: The boiler does not work - I set the pressure to 1 (I hear a clicking sound, the light stops blinking). I set the temperature to 40. The device starts up and starts heating the water.

Literally, in 5 minutes, the pressure rises sharply to 2.5 and more. (This was not the case before.) I drain the water from the system (through the tap on the return line), thereby reducing the pressure. And I do this until the water heats up to the desired temperature. When the water warms up, I drain the water from the tap and set the pressure to 2 bar. When the boiler works constantly at this temperature and does not turn off (in winter), the pressure remains unchanged (sometimes it increases slightly).

And when you turn off the heating of the heating system, the pressure drops below 1 and the device does not ignite. You have to open the make-up tap and draw up water in order to increase the pressure to start the boiler. It's summer now and the heating system is not working. I set the pressure to 1.5 to heat the water. This is how it has been for 2 months already. Tell me what is the problem?

Answer:

The problem is the lack of air in the expansion tank.

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A real boiler repair specialist is hard to find. Therefore, it is important to understand them on your own, because a master is really not always required and many problems can be eliminated by yourself. Consider a list of boiler faults, which covers as much as possible all possible breakdowns... The article is intended for a layman, but for an ordinary person who is capable of eliminating such problems.

There can be several ways to eliminate this malfunction of a gas boiler. Simplest - check if the boiler is plugged in or if the machine is knocked out ... If this does not help, you need to remove the boiler casing and inspect its insides for a short circuit. Perhaps there is some smell or something has leaked. It is necessary to check if all the wires and sensors are in place. If everything is in order, then you need to go on to inspect the fuses on the electronic board. After making sure that the fuse has blown, you just need to replace it with a new one. If the new fuse immediately burns out, then it is necessary to call the master, since this means some kind of serious breakdown, which is unlikely to be fixed on your own. A specialist must be called in the case when all the fuses are in order, This indicates that the problem is not in them.

Pay attention to the varistor. It is designed to protect the boiler from voltage surges. If there was any difference, then the varistor will be blown up and only a small part of it will remain. Because of this, the boiler may also not turn on. The solution to this boiler malfunction is simply to re-solder the varistor.


Such a malfunction of the gas boiler is possible if the sensor circuit in the room thermostat or boiler thermostat is broken. It is necessary to see if the room sensor is turned off. If it is off, then the mechanical thermostat just needs to be turned on, and in the electronic one it is possible to replace the batteries.

The boiler has many safety systems that are included in one circuit. When one of the systems is out of order, the voltage is not supplied. If the room thermostat or the boiler thermostat is out of order, then there will be no errors on the panel, and an error is displayed for another breakdown. Therefore, when the boiler simply does not want to turn on, the first step is to check the thermostats and start repairing the boiler from it.

  1. The boiler also does not turn on, but the problem is not with it

This may be due to a clogged filter under the boiler. It is necessary to find it and by closing both filter taps, unscrew the nut and pull out the mesh from there, which must be rinsed with water and put back. When cleaning the filter, as with any other operation, be sure to turn off the boiler.

Coarse filter

Also, the reason may be in the pump, which does not supply heat for two reasons:

  • due to air accumulation;
  • the rotor is jammed.

To determine the cause of the pump malfunction in gas boiler, first you need to check the operation of the rotor. To do this, unscrew the nut on the pump, from which a little water should flow out, and then insert a screwdriver inside, if a characteristic sound is heard, then everything is in order with the rotor. If not, then you should turn the slots with a screwdriver or do it with a special key.

If air accumulates in the pump, it is necessary to open the air vent and release the air. The air vent is a rotating or upward-moving cap, and the sound of air coming out should be heard when discharged.

  1. The pressure gauge needle is close to the red zone.

When the cold system has pressure near the red zone, it is necessary to turn on the boiler and heat it up. If, with slight warming up, the pressure rises strongly from 0.7 to 1.5 bar, this will mean that air must be added to the expansion tank, due to its loss. To do this, you need to reset the system pressure to zero (open the tap and drain some water) and using the usual car pump or pump the compressor to 1.3 bar and then bring the system pressure to 1.5 bar.

How to repair code malfunctions of the boiler?

Boiler overheating error

A malfunction of a gas boiler in the form of overheating may occur due to a lack of circulation. In this case, you need to check the pump and filter. The overheating thermostat may also have broken.

Low system pressure

If the pressure does not rise when the boiler warms up, then the tightness of the system may simply be broken and the connections need to be tightened, and then the pressure should be slightly added. If this problem arose almost immediately after installing the boiler, then you just need to remove the air through the automatic air vent and add a little water.

There is no draft of the gas boiler

If the boiler is with an open combustion chamber, it is enough to see if it is clogged with something. If the combustion chamber is closed, then with outer pipe condensate drips, getting into the internal and freezing, into winter time years, turns into an icicle, blocking the access of air to the boiler. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to water the resulting icicle. hot water... Another foreign object can also get into the chimney.

The boiler does not ignite the flame when ignited

This indicates a malfunction of the gas valve in the boiler. To verify this, you can unscrew the hose and see if gas is supplied. If there is gas, you should call a specialist who will replace this valve.

The boiler ignites, but the flame goes out immediately

In this case, the panel may indicate a malfunction of the gas boiler in the form of a lack of ionization current. You need to check this by turning on the boiler again, turning the plug, thereby changing the phases. If nothing has changed, then the work of the ionization current may be disrupted due to any electrical work in the house. If, then this is due to voltage surges and a stabilizer is needed.

The panel displays incorrect errors

In general, that's all. If the material was useful, do not forget to share it by clicking on the buttons social networks below this text.

Also find out how to do it correctly so that there are no problems in the future: