DIY slingshot. Slingshot for hunting - photo

A slingshot is a subject familiar to many from childhood. The usual model is made of wood; a tourniquet with a nickle is attached to the spear. Shooting is carried out with stones.

An option for shooting with wire staples could also be made. However, in addition to this familiar device, there are also other varieties of slingshots.

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Paper slingshot

The paper version is done simply and quickly. Let's consider a simplified method. You will need the paper itself, scotch tape and an elastic band.

Take two sheets of paper A4 format. The sheets are curled around a pencil in two tubes. The blanks are done. To prevent the paper from unwinding, the edge is glued with tape. Everything is simple and neat. Then both tubes are folded crosswise, in the form of the letter X. Slightly below the point of intersection, the blanks are squeezed with your fingers and rewound with tape to the very bottom, connecting the two tubes into one whole. It remains to the top of the slingshot, with the same tape, to tie the ends of the rubber band. The "shooter" is ready.

Shooting is in progress paper brackets. In order for it not to bend, the thumb must be resting against the branch of the horns. You can make such a slingshot in a few minutes, but the power of the shot leaves much to be desired.

Slingshot from a bottle

A slingshot from a bottle is also made literally in a matter of minutes. For its production you need:

• plastic bottle,
• stationery knife,
• two rubber bands
• fingertip or balloon.

The neck of the bottle is cut with a knife, so that it turns out small funnel... A fingertip is put on the neck, which tightly wraps around the neck at the base. The fingertip needs to be tucked inside, exposing it in the middle. Stationery elastic bands are pulled together on the neck, tightly fixing the ball or fingertip.

After that he turns back- and the slingshot is ready. You can shoot with plastic or metal balls, small stones, mountain ash or cherry pits.

To do this, the projectile is placed inside and pulled along with the fingertip, then released and flies out of the funnel plastic bottle... It hits hard enough for short distances.

Wooden slingshot

Most traditional way proven over the years. The popularity of wooden slingshots was at one time very high in all courtyards.

A suitable forked branch is selected and cut to the appropriate size. It is better to immediately check the tree for strength so that the slingshot does not break at the wrong moment.

Circular grooves are made near the ends so that the elastic does not slip later and is held in place.

Then choose an elastic band. Previously, they used a tube from a bicycle tire or from a ball, from which a strip of the desired size was cut.

Now there are many more options, up to PVC stretch tape. A nickle is cut from a piece of the same rubber or leather, on which the projectile will fall.

In this piece, cuts are made through which the rubber band runs. To prevent the penny from slipping, the elastic can be cut and tie to its holes. The other two ends are attached to a wooden slingshot. Anything suitable in size is used as charges. But you cannot take too large an object - the ricochet from the branches of the slingshot can harm the shooter himself.

The use of a slingshot as a hunting weapon is more exotic than the norm. In fact, this is, at first glance, a primitive instrument "from childhood", which evokes associations with the ringing of a broken window glass and the word "hooligan" now occupies a well-defined niche in a wide range of hunting arsenal, being adjacent to crossbows, bows and other "ancient" (but by no means primitive) inventions of mankind.

Device and principle of operation

In its traditional, classic form- this is a very compact (slightly larger than the palm) piece of Y-shaped wood (resembling the horns of some representative of ruminants and ungulates), to which are attached flat strips or round plaits made of rubber, with a wider leather strip between them. The shell is inserted into this part, then the rubber bands are stretched and, aiming, releasing the leather jacket with the shell clamped in it, a "shot" is made.

Cutting sharply, rubber bands transfer kinetic energy to the projectile, which is quite sufficient for it to gain a speed of 45 to 80 m / s and a flight range of 50 to 200 meters. A very wide "spread" of these indicators is explained by the numerous options for both designs and materials for the manufacture of slingshots, and a wide selection of "ammunition" for them.

So, simple in its own way technological device weapon, slingshot consists of several main characteristic parts:

● slingshot, or stag - serves to attach a rubber band, hold the slingshot while aiming and firing;

● ropes, throwing ropes, bowstrings - rubber (latex) strips used to accumulate potential energy during stretching (pulling) and the rapid release of this energy to the projectile at the moment of compression;

● leather jacket (leather jacket, saddle) - “charging” part, made, as a rule, of leather and serving to grip and hold the projectile before firing.

Homemade traditional slingshot makers prefer natural wood... The choice of the breed is quite serious. Just as in a rifle butt, a combination of such qualities of wood as elasticity, hardness, and resistance to splitting is required.

The best species are traditionally deciduous - mountain ash, walnut, maple, apple, acacia. Usually a young tree branch is chosen and tied with a rope, pulling the future "horns" to each other. Such a branch is left "to grow", but most often it is cut off immediately if its size already meets the requirements and tastes of the shooter.

An important criterion for the choice of the workpiece is the symmetrical arrangement and the same thickness of the two, working in the future, processes, to which the rubber bands will be attached. After cutting, such a workpiece is cleaned of bark and dried for two to three weeks in a dry room.

The resulting "semi-finished product" is processed - polished and brought to the size and proportions, depending on the individual taste and engineering preferences of the master and the future owner. Of course, there are general logical criteria: sufficient thickness and length of the handle, equal height of the tops of the horns, the distance between them. Depressions are also made for the seats of the rubber band.

The fantasies of the craftsmen are endless - there are slingshots from a steel bar, carved from a deer antler, sawn out of plastic or from thick multilayer plywood, with a notch on the handle, decorated with the owner's initials, with inserted rhinestones and artistic carvings.

There are lovers of various technical options and improvements: all kinds of sights, tension boosters, unusual shapes leather jacket. Sometimes, due to the ornate forms, this brings them closer to modern compound bows or crossbows, but more often it unnecessarily complicates the design and hardly really improves the "combat" characteristics - after all, the very essence of a slingshot is compactness and intuitive shooting.

It is much more important to choose the "correct" material for the manufacture of strands, which must have a sufficient ability to restore its original dimensions as quickly as possible. For many years, the most affordable and popular material for this has been the rubber medical bandage.

Now the "professionals" consider this material to be natural latex... Rows made from this material serve for quite a long time and have the highest rates of contraction rate. Modern king of slingshot rubber - surgical latex, which enthusiasts get in pharmacies or "Medtekhnika". A Russian achievement is the Pezzer catheter, produced in several standard sizes. Especially advanced shooters use only Trumark (USA) branded rubber, red, priced at $ 4.95 per set.

Leading manufacturers of slingshot rubber for sports and hunting models make their rods wedge-shaped or conical, tapering to the leather jacket, which, in turn, must be made of medium hardness material:

• Too soft it is convenient to hold with your fingers, but it can slip out unevenly when fired, which will certainly affect the accuracy of the shot.
• Overly firm - it is difficult to hold the projectile without feeling it. According to the reviews of the masters, good leather jackets are obtained from old belts and shoes, which speaks not only of a creative beginning, but also of a very economical way of making weapons of this kind.

Constructions and models

Moving from the basics and products craftsmen to the industrial production of this type of throwing weapon, we will see an even greater variety of engineering and technical thought. Nowadays, there is a very wide range of slingshot companies on the market, for example, such well-known companies as "Marksman" or "Combow"(USA), producing their products not only in sports and hunting versions, but also fulfilling orders for arming special forces - in the form of a real combat system.

Italian company "Advance" makes "ordinary" (using the term hunting weapon) slingshots - with the widest choice of models and prices.

Of course, Chinese manufacturers did not stand aside and filled the Russian market with countless "different-sized" and different-quality products. It is impossible to pass by such model names: "BlackWidow", "ProDiablo", "Wrist-RocketPro" or "Dragon" ...

Slingshots "Marksman" have a completely traditional look, but are produced using modern technologies and materials. For example, the handles are made of impact-resistant plastic different colors, the flyers are pressed into the handle, rubber straps are made in the form of cylindrical hollow cords with special tips for fastening, the leather jacket (heel) is made of synthetics.

Typically, the grip surface has finger recesses or grooves. In more advanced models, the design provides for a special screw for attaching the flyers to the upper end of the handle, and to it, in turn, is attached magazine for balls (capacity 25 pcs.), made in such a way that it is also an emphasis and protection for the shooter's hand.

For hunters-aesthetes and sophisticated connoisseurs, slingshots are even produced in an elite version. In this case, the handle is made of fine wood, the flyer is made of high-strength steel with an anti-corrosion coating, the rubber bands are two-tone, and the heel is made of calfskin. For shooting, the manufacturer recommends and produces steel balls with a diameter 6.5mm, 8mm and 10.5mm.

In some models of the company's slingshot "Combow", in addition to using standard balls, it is also possible to shoot special arrows, which makes them somewhat similar to a small crossbow. The kit also includes spare rubber cylindrical straps, an elbow rest, a holster, a quiver and a set of special hunting (short) arrows.

The slingshot body is made of aluminum alloy and has a noble matte finish and the vinyl handle is adjustable in length. An interesting feature the design of this sample has become a kind of "Hi-Tech innovation", increasing the effect of the stretched strands on the projectile (as it is positioned in the instructions).

In an ordinary, average slingshot (without such a device), the rubber band is stretched by 460mm, and in the "Combow" slingshot by 740mm, which makes it possible to accelerate a steel ball with a diameter of 12.7mm to a speed of 70 m / s, and a hunting arrow weighing 160 g - up to more than 60 m / s and an impressive flight range of 137-183 m! The holster and arrow quiver attach to the leg or waist belt. The price of such a "combat kit" is over 150 US dollars.

Some foreign models can also be equipped with a kind of underbarrel flashlight, laser sight and other similar options for deep connoisseurs and virtuosos who value modern technological advances.

It is impossible not to mention also special hunting models, which allow using not only a single ball as a projectile (like a prototype of a bullet), but also, thanks to the shape and material of the leather jacket, charge the slingshot with shot, which makes it possible to use it for purely hunting purposes - for shooting for small and, most importantly, moving targets.

Ammunition and shooting

As with firearms, hitting accuracy depends on the entire weapon-ammunition-shooter complex. And the flight of a projectile fired from any weapon is subject to the same laws of ballistics. Therefore - the less the resistance of the oncoming air flow, the more uniform and longer the "acceleration" - the more accurately and further the projectile will fly:

● crushed stone, gravel and other improvised items for the title of an ideal ammunition are poorly suited: the difference in size, mass and shape will not allow achieving stable shooting results;

● glass beads are much better: they are symmetrical and quite heavy. One of the advantages is that the refraction of light makes the trajectory of their flight clearly visible, which is indispensable for practicing intuitive (without the use of sighting devices) shooting skills. Their disadvantages are still insufficient mass and sharp fragments in case of hitting a solid obstacle;

● hunting lead buckshot is almost perfect. The weight of this metal allows smaller balls to be used while maintaining a fairly solid weight, so they experience less air resistance and fly faster and farther. Buckshot is available - sold in all hunting stores. There is only one drawback - lead oxide is poisonous (for those who care own health and ecology environment);

● steel balls are close to perfect. The near-perfect polished surface improves streamlining and reduces air resistance. Environmental friendliness of use. The only "but" - is lighter than lead, therefore, compared to them (of the same diameter) - the distance of their flight will be shorter.

Confident firing distance from a slingshot coincides with that for a pneumatic long-barreled weapon: 10-25 meters(although some trained shooters achieve good results at longer (30-35 m) distances. As in archery, uniformity of pulling and repeatability (uniformity from shot to shot) of movements are important.

The technique is individual: some shooters hold the slingshot vertically, others almost horizontally, and still others at a certain angle. The main thing here is to make it convenient and efficient. Therefore, this is where the term "intuitive shooting", which means an instinctive correction (acquired by practice) for distance, trajectory, target movement, wind strength and direction, and other factors.

It is difficult to give advice here due to the unpredictability of various hunting situations, but the "father of slingshot thought", the mighty old man Jack Koehler, tried to collect them in the immortal work "Slingshot Shooting" faceted eye of a flying tsetse fly.

Slingshot and hunting

Based technical characteristics it can be understood that the use of a slingshot while hunting is quite reasonable and justified. Many hunters use a slingshot to scare a squirrel or marten out of a nest, so that they can then fire a shot with a gun. To get a wounded animal (for example, a duck on the water) so as not to waste extra cartridges - in these cases, the help of a slingshot is in great demand.

As for the direct, hunting use, then, first of all, it is shooting at medium-sized game located at a close distance from the hunter. It can be a hazel grouse that flew up to the whistle of a decoy and landed on the nearest branch, partridges that flew up from under your or a dog's feet, a woodcock on a spring pull in a low forest (in these cases, when shooting at flying game, of course it is better to use shot as a projectile), small animals (squirrel, marten, muskrat, ferret, hare) - balls of various diameters are already quite suitable.

The slingshot forces the hunter to get as close to the prey as possible, which turns such a hunt into a wonderful and reckless training in concealment and disguise. The noiselessness of the shot is also important - often the game does not disappear after the first miss and allows you to make the second shot.

In lands rich in game, it is quite possible to shoot various waders and even black grouse (especially at the beginning of the season, in broods) and ducks. Although you need to be aware that it will never be as effective as with a gun.

So, the pros and cons of this simple but unique invention as applied to hunting:

● compactness and low weight;

● "omnivorous" in relation to ammunition, up to the use of an accidental one that is at hand;

● noiselessness of the shot (this is often important);

● "issue price" - the cost is in the range of 130 rubles. up to RUB 13,000 Domestic goods are much cheaper, not to mention the author's self-made copies;

● easy repair or replacement of any failed part;

● in Russia it is not considered a weapon and does not require registration, license or any other legalization (although one should not forget the articles of the Criminal Code on hooliganism, poaching and infliction of bodily harm of various severity);

● an excellent product for eye training, understanding the basics of ballistics, concealing skills, studying the habits of game, "quiet hunting", which almost does not violate the ecology and tranquility of the wild;

● the efficiency (prey) of hunting with a slingshot leaves much to be desired, but by passion and physical activity quite comparable to gun hunting.

“Carving with a knife. Crafts from the branches ”- a book that will definitely come in handy this summer for boys and those adults who do not consider the folding knife a dangerous pampering in the hands of children. First of all, having mastered the basic ones, it is worth making a slingshot - real, accurate and very durable. Today's DIY slingshot workshop will show you how to do this.

I became interested in slingshots as a child, quite naturally, as well as bows and arrows, various traps, tree houses and blowguns (we used small clay balls to shoot through our wonderful bamboo tubes). Although not everything I did with my many slingshots, I can be proud, it was fun, and useful too - for example, you could get a mango, which was hanging out of reach on a thin branch.

This work, of course, was for two. One stood under a huge, beautiful, ripe mango, and the other stood to the side, armed with a good slingshot with charges of hard unripe guava or nuts. Naturally, the target was not the mango itself. Getting into the fetus would harm it mercilessly. The target was a long stem over a mango. If the "bullet" cut him off, then the mango would fall right into the hands (hopefully) of the waiting catcher.

So, here are the components of a Brazilian slingshot, Mato Grosso brand, 1950s model (2005 modernization, by Lübkemann): a fairly symmetrical slingshot made of deciduous tree; a high-quality rubber medical tube (the thickness depends on the pulling force you need), a piece of durable leather for the skin and dental floss (yes, yes, dental floss! - it can be with menthol, it can be odorless, but I usually use waxed).

Here I must admit that as a boy in the jungle I used the good old rubber of car tire tubes, tongues of old boots and laces! But I suspect it’s hard to find a real rubber car camera today, and it’s not easy to find a leather boot tongue at all. As for the dental floss, I don’t remember how I started using it, but it works great! It is very durable and will not slip when tied.

You will need:

• Symmetrically (reasonably) branching branch of a deciduous tree
• Sandpaper for sanding - a couple of types from fine to very fine (150 and 220).
• Rubber medical tube good quality
• Leather for the jacket (saddles, heels)
• Dental floss

1. Cut the handle to a length that suits you. Round off the tops of the bifurcation.

1. For this particular slingshot, we will remove all the bark. On some of my slingshots, I left a part of the bark, depending on the type I wanted.

1. Cut a shallow “neck” at the top ends of the slingshot.

1. Cut the tubes to the required length, making an allowance so that their ends will both wrap around the ends of the slingshot and fold through the holes in the jacket that you carefully cut.

When cutting these holes, proceed very carefully, making sure to make the edges of the hole smooth, without any burrs or cuts that could rupture the jacket.

1. It is imperative to tie the rubber bands to the slingshot together! One holds the slingshot and pulls the elastic (its "tongue" should be outside the branch), and the second, pulling the thread, tightly winds the thread around the elastic and ties it.

Don't skimp on the thread! Fold it in half and use a long thread. And tie a few knots as you wind.

1. As an additional reinforcement, I cross the string several times on the front of the wrap-around elastic and around the neck of the slingshot.

1. Tie the elastic bands securely (also tightening them) to both holes in the jacket.

1. Ready! Slingshots can be a lot of fun and reward if used correctly. In some places (for example, on summer cottages) there are special restrictions on slingshots as throwing weapons. Be sure to check before use. That says it all!

1. The branch we used for this slingshot, although made of sturdy wood, is still probably a little thinner than I usually used for the rubber we used. A thicker branch would be more suitable - the one in the photo below.

Next time we will make a wooden fork for roasting something delicious over the fire.

Discussion

The main thing is to be careful with such toys)) the kids are nimble now you never know what .. (

Dear dads and mothers ... there is no need to give your child slingshots ... since childhood I had a scar just below the navel because of the slingshot ... the boys from the neighboring yard were naughty ...

Even though I am a girl, as a child I loved to shoot with a slingshot at cats and dogs)) when I remember ... I shudder. Poor animals! What did they not tolerate from me (

Comment on the article "DIY slingshot: crafts for boys. Master class with a photo"

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Despite the fact that many people consider the slingshot to be a child's toy, it can still be a powerful weapon. The difference between the toy and the combat vehicle is the tensile force of the rubber and the strength of the hull. A powerful hunting slingshot made from steel wire or a sturdy stick suitable shape... And excellent rubber will be from a football or volleyball camera, rubber bandage, camera passenger car, medical harness or catheter No. 22. This best materials for really powerful slingshot, with which you can hunt both birds and small animals.

What is the most ideal rubber for a slingshot

Most the best way- These are # 22 catheters or medical harnesses. You can buy them at the pharmacy. They stretch well and contract very quickly, which allows the projectile to fly swiftly and far. Their disadvantage is that when the slightest burrs appear, they break.

The most durable rubber for a slingshot is a car tube. However, in order for the projectile to fly far away (as if released with a catheter), more force from the shooter is required when pulling. But on the other hand, on the hunt, you can be completely sure that the slingshot will serve for a long time.

A camera from a ball or a rubber bandage stretches twice, or even three times more than a car camera, but not a single option can boast of durability. All due to burrs. They are formed by cutting the strips off with scissors. It is only a matter of time here how long such a weapon will last. Usually very short. It is better to cut off the parts with a blade, but from the first time no one succeeds in doing everything perfectly, it takes skill. Such rubber is a very delicate material.

Slingshot handle

If the weapon is planned to be powerful, then the body of the slingshot should be made with an emphasis. With this simple device, the holding hand will not get tired. If the hunting slingshot is not very powerful, and the shooter is confident in the strength of his hand, then you can do without additional support. In this case, the design becomes much simpler both in appearance and in execution.

What you need to create a slingshot

You need:

• wire 5 mm thick or wooden spear;
• suitable rubber;
• genuine leather or a very durable substitute for it;
• insulating tape;
• nylon threads;
• good glue.

First you need to make the metal body of the slingshot. As mentioned above, it can be with or without emphasis. Or you can just cut out a branch that fits the shape. If the body is made of wood, then you just need to peel off the bark, give required size, make slits for the rubber at the ends of the horns and sand. In the event that a do-it-yourself slingshot is made of wire, you must first bend it, as shown in the figure, and insert a piece of hose into the forearm rest so that the surface does not cut into the hand. After that, you need to saw off a piece of wood, which will become the handle for which the shooter will hold his weapon. We split this workpiece in half, make slots in it where the wire will enter, and then drill two holes for the bolts that will tightly tighten the steel body and both parts of the handle.

Making the rubber part of the slingshot

The throwing element of the slingshot consists of two elastic bands, which are connected by a leather heel. It is needed for good fixation, for example, of a stone at the time of the shot. A rectangle of 10 x 4 cm is cut out of the skin. Holes are made at the edges where a tourniquet or a piece of the camera is inserted, and then fixed with a nylon thread. In order for a do-it-yourself slingshot to serve for a long time, all rubber parts must be fastened carefully. And the nodes must be coated with glue.

Attaching the throwing part to a wire spear

A tourniquet for a slingshot or catheter is a thin hose that is put on the ends of the slingshot, lubricated with glue. After that, for reliability, it is wrapped on top with nylon thread or electrical tape.

The attachment of the camera sections or rubber bandage is slightly different. The edge of the rubber piece is applied to a metal rod, after which it is simply wrapped with a thread and the knot is fixed with glue. Then they wrap it with electrical tape on top.

Attaching the throwing part to a wooden spear

Everything is done very simply - rubber is looped into the slots at the ends of the horns, after which it is wrapped with a thread and tied. And, of course, the knots are coated with glue so that they do not come loose during the firing process. It is important not to use wire with such fasteners, because it can damage the rubber.

Slingshot sight

If you need a slingshot with a scope, then the latter can be easily made. It is necessary to make an arc from the wire, in the middle of which there will be a front sight in the form of a recess. She is attached between the horns with duct tape. When aiming, it is worth connecting the front sight and the target, and then making a shot. However, in practice, such additional attributes of weapons do not bring so much desired result... And for a person who knows how to shoot, such devices even interfere.

Slingshot technique

This throwing weapon allows you to hit any target very clearly. However, for accurate hits, you need to feel it well. Only practice will allow you to develop a sense of distance and target, as well as strength for tension. Beginners often ask how to shoot with a slingshot, they try to understand the technique itself.

In principle, everything is simple - you need to visually represent the line between the rubber bands on the spear, and align the center with the target. After that, you need to make a shot. However, everything is not so simple here. When pulling the rubber, it is easy to displace it, and therefore the projectile can go to the side. A beginner will not be able to sense such a displacement, and therefore the scope in this weapon is useless. The shooter is also able to retract the leather heel vertically when firing, which will also lead to a miss.

Only practice will develop muscle memory, which will allow you to feel these displacements and eliminate them. This is precisely the secret of accuracy from any type of weapon, and especially when shooting from a slingshot.

A do-it-yourself slingshot should be comfortable, and the less effort the shooter makes for a long-range shot, the better. Some simple solutions will allow you to shoot longer, and the hand will be less tired at the same time. If the spear itself is long, then due to such a lever, the load on the hand increases. This is especially true for those models that are not equipped with a stop. Therefore, you need to make the horns as small as possible - two centimeters will be enough. Even a little less can be done depending on the rubber.

When pulled, the slingshot strongly rests on the area of ​​the hand between the large and forefinger... Therefore, a thin handle will put a lot of pressure on this place, which also does not contribute to a long hunt. To facilitate the pressure as much as possible, it is worth making the handle rather thick - this will distribute the pressure along larger area reduce its strength. Applying these constructive nuances of geometry in practice, you will get such an excellent weapon as a slingshot, improved and very convenient with your own hands. Usually, having made your first weapon, you will know when shooting what needs to be changed. And subsequently a new slingshot is created, more convenient and improved. However, the main nuances that should be adhered to in the manufacture are fully described here.

Safety engineering

There are some rules for using your slingshot safely. To protect the hand from being hit by rubber and pressing pain during prolonged shooting, it is worth putting a glove on the hand that holds the spear. Rarely, but it happens that rubber under tension can tear and hit the eyes. To be safe from this, it is worth wearing

Desire has arisen do attribute of any bully of the times of the USSR, namely a slingshot.

My first thought, despite the fact that I love to do everything by their by hand, it was easy to go and buy a slingshot. But after weighing all the pros and cons of this venture, I decided that it would be more expedient to make it myself.
So went sleepless nights and endless blog searches on how and what to make under the tree... On them, I actually learned that a standard slingshot consists of three parts: a skin, two rods, a spear. In this article I will show you how do jacket and attach the rods to it. Let's get started)

If anyone didn’t know, then I’ll tell you that the skin is that part of the slingshot, into which the projectile is placed before the shot. The leather can be different forms and sizes. To make it, I bought a piece of leather 80 * 35 mm from a shoemaker. The requirements for the jacket are very simple: it must be large enough to hold decent sized shells. Must be strong to withstand the tension of the elastic around the edges.
So, first we take a piece of leather and outline the contours of the skin on it.

Next, we cut out the workpiece. A utility knife or large shoemaker's scissors is best for this. The holes for the rods can be made with a nail or knocked out with a sharpened tube. The holes should be located at least 5 mm from the edge of the jacket, otherwise the leather will not withstand.


It seems that we figured out the leather jacket, now let's move on to the rods.

The rods are 2 rubber bands due to which the projectile flies out of the slingshot. For the manufacture of rods, you can use several types of elastic bands, we will talk about each of them now.

Probably the most famous and widespread is a tubular tourniquet.


The plus of such a tourniquet is that it is easy to attach to the spear, and the minus - with sufficiently good stretching, very smoothly returns to its original position. I dropped it and decided to look further. Also, it has already been discontinued and it is quite difficult to get it.

The second type of bundle is flat.

Honestly, this is the worst gum I've ever seen. It stretches terribly and very smoothly returns to its original position, moreover, it is unrealistic to fix it on the skin.

You can use elastic bands for fitness, they stretch well and return well to the opposite position.

The next candidate is the Martens bandage. It stretches well, quickly takes its starting position. It was on him that I stopped my choice. To make the rods, we take a bandage, cut off a piece about 30 cm long and cut it lengthwise into two even parts.

In principle, the rods are ready, but for the convenience of fastening, I recommend narrowing them a little along the edges.
Now we put everything together)

It is necessary to fasten the rods so that the tail from the knot is outward and does not interfere with the shooting.


The second part of the article will be published when a sunny day comes out and you can go to the landing and break out a good spear.

OK it's all over Now. Good luck to you homemade.