Do-it-yourself stirling engine, diagram and drawing. Which Stirling Engine Has the Best Design for Maximum Efficiency Do-It-Yourself Stirling Engine from a Can
Modern automotive industry has reached a level of development in which, without fundamental scientific research it is almost impossible to achieve dramatic improvements in the design of traditional internal combustion engines. This situation forces designers to pay attention to alternative power plant designs. Some engineering centers have focused their efforts on the creation and adaptation to serial production of hybrid and electrical models, other automakers are investing in the development of engines powered by renewable sources (for example, biodiesel with rapeseed oil). There are other powertrain projects that could eventually become the new standard propulsion for vehicles.
Among the possible sources of mechanical energy for cars of the future is the external combustion engine, which was invented in the middle of the 19th century by the Scot Robert Stirling as a thermal expansion machine.
Scheme of work
The Stirling engine converts thermal energy supplied from the outside into useful mechanical work due to changes in the temperature of the working fluid(gas or liquid) circulating in a closed volume.
IN general view the scheme of operation of the device is as follows: in the lower part of the engine, the working substance (for example, air) heats up and, increasing in volume, pushes the piston up. Hot air enters the top of the motor, where it is cooled by a radiator. The pressure of the working fluid is reduced, the piston is lowered for the next cycle. In this case, the system is sealed and the working substance is not consumed, but only moves inside the cylinder.
There are several design options for power units using the Stirling principle.
Stirling modification "Alpha"
The engine consists of two separate power pistons (hot and cold), each of which is located in its own cylinder. Heat is supplied to the cylinder with the hot piston, and the cold cylinder is located in the cooling heat exchanger.
Stirling modification "Beta"
The cylinder containing the piston is heated on one side and cooled on the opposite side. A power piston and a displacer move in the cylinder, designed to change the volume of the working gas. The return movement of the cooled working substance into the hot cavity of the engine is performed by the regenerator.
Stirling modification "Gamma"
The design consists of two cylinders. The first is completely cold, in which the power piston moves, and the second, hot on one side and cold on the other, serves to move the displacer. The regenerator for circulating cold gas can be common to both cylinders or be included in the design of the displacer.
Advantages of the Stirling engine
Like most external combustion engines, Stirling is inherent multi-fuel: the engine runs on a temperature difference, regardless of the reasons that caused it.
Interesting fact! Once, an installation was demonstrated that operated on twenty fuel options. Without stopping the engine, gasoline, diesel fuel, methane, crude oil and vegetable oil- the power unit continued to work steadily.
The engine has simplicity of design and does not require additional systems and attachments(timing, starter, gearbox).
Features of the device guarantee a long service life: more than one hundred thousand hours of continuous operation.
The Stirling engine is silent, since detonation does not occur in the cylinders and there is no need to remove exhaust gases. Modification "Beta", equipped with a rhombic crank mechanism, is a perfectly balanced system that does not have vibrations during operation.
There are no processes in the engine cylinders that can have a negative impact on environment. By choosing a suitable heat source (e.g. solar power), Stirling can be absolutely environmentally friendly power unit.
Disadvantages of the Stirling design
With all the set of positive properties, the immediate mass use of Stirling engines is impossible for the following reasons:
The main problem lies in the material consumption of the structure. Cooling of the working fluid requires the presence of large volume radiators, which significantly increases the size and metal consumption of the installation.
The current technological level will allow the Stirling engine to compare in performance with modern gasoline engines only through the use of complex types of working fluid (helium or hydrogen) under pressure of more than one hundred atmospheres. This fact raises serious questions both in the field of materials science and user safety.
An important operational problem is related to the issues of thermal conductivity and temperature resistance of metals. Heat is supplied to the working volume through heat exchangers, which leads to inevitable losses. In addition, the heat exchanger must be made of heat-resistant metals resistant to high pressure. Suitable materials very expensive and difficult to process.
The principles of changing the Stirling engine modes are also fundamentally different from traditional ones, which requires the development of special control devices. So, to change the power, it is necessary to change the pressure in the cylinders, the phase angle between the displacer and the power piston, or to affect the capacity of the cavity with the working fluid.
One way to control the shaft speed on a Stirling engine model can be seen in the following video:
Efficiency
In theoretical calculations, the efficiency of the Stirling engine depends on the temperature difference of the working fluid and can reach 70% or more in accordance with the Carnot cycle.
However, the first samples realized in metal had an extremely low efficiency for the following reasons:
- inefficient variants of the coolant (working fluid), limiting the maximum heating temperature;
- energy losses due to friction of parts and thermal conductivity of the engine housing;
- lack of structural materials resistant to high pressure.
Engineering solutions have constantly improved the design of the power unit. So, in the second half of the 20th century, a four-cylinder automobile Stirling engine with a rhombic drive showed an efficiency equal to 35% in tests on a water coolant with a temperature of 55 ° C. Careful study of the design, the use of new materials and fine-tuning of the working units ensured the efficiency of the experimental samples at 39%.
Note! Modern gasoline engines of similar power have an efficiency of 28-30%, and turbocharged diesel engines in the range of 32-35%.
Modern designs of the Stirling engine, such as the one created American company Mechanical Technology Inc, demonstrate efficiency up to 43.5%. And with the development of the production of heat-resistant ceramics and similar innovative materials there will be a significant rise in temperature working environment and achieving an efficiency of 60%.
Examples of successful implementation of automotive Stirlings
Despite all the difficulties, there are many workable models of the Stirling engine applicable to the automotive industry.
Interest in Stirling, suitable for installation in a car, appeared in the 50s of the XX century. Work in this direction was carried out by such concerns as Ford Motor Company, Volkswagen Group and others.
UNITED STIRLING (Sweden) developed Stirling, which made maximum use of serial components and assemblies produced by automakers (crankshaft, connecting rods). The resulting four-cylinder V-shaped engine had a specific gravity of 2.4 kg / kW, which is comparable to the characteristics of a compact diesel engine. This unit was successfully tested as a power plant for a seven-ton cargo van.
One of the successful examples is the four-cylinder Stirling engine of the Dutch production model "Philips 4-125DA", intended for installation on a car. The motor had a working power of 173 liters. from. in dimensions similar to the classic gasoline unit.
General Motors engineers achieved significant results by building an eight-cylinder (4 working and 4 compression cylinders) V-shaped Stirling engine with a standard crank mechanism in the 70s.
Similar power plant in 1972 equipped with a limited series of Ford Torino cars, whose fuel consumption has decreased by 25% compared to the classic gasoline V-shaped eight.
Currently, more than fifty foreign companies are working to improve the design of the Stirling engine in order to adapt it to mass production for the needs of the automotive industry. And if it is possible to eliminate the shortcomings of this type of engine, while maintaining its advantages, then it is Stirling, and not turbines and electric motors, that will replace gasoline internal combustion engines.
You can, of course, buy beautiful factory models of Stirling engines, such as in this Chinese online store. However, sometimes you want to create yourself and make a thing, even from improvised means. Our website already has several options for manufacturing these motors, and in this publication, read completely simple option manufacturing at home.
To make it, you will need improvised materials: a tin can, a small piece of foam rubber, a CD, two bolts and paper clips.
Foam rubber is one of the most common materials used in the manufacture of Stirling motors. An engine displacer is made from it. From a piece of our foam rubber we cut out a circle, we make its diameter two millimeters less than the inner diameter of the can, and the height is slightly more than half of it.
We drill a hole in the center of the cover, into which we then insert the connecting rod. For a smooth running of the connecting rod, we make a spiral from a paper clip and solder it to the cover.
We pierce the foam rubber circle from foam rubber in the middle with a screw and lock it with a washer from above and below with a washer and a nut. After that, we attach a piece of paper clip by soldering, having previously straightened it.
Now we stick the displacer into the hole made in advance in the lid and hermetically solder the lid and the jar together. We make a small loop at the end of the paper clip, and drill another hole in the lid, but a little more than the first one.
We make a cylinder from tin using soldering.
We attach the finished cylinder to the jar with a soldering iron, so that there are no gaps left at the place of soldering.
We make a crankshaft from a paper clip. Knee spacing should be done at 90 degrees. The knee, which will be above the cylinder in height, is 1-2 mm larger than the other.
We make racks for the shaft from paper clips. Making a membrane To do this, we put on the cylinder polyethylene film, push it inward a little and fix it on the cylinder with a thread.
The connecting rod that will need to be attached to the membrane is made from a paper clip and inserted into a piece of rubber. The length of the connecting rod must be made in such a way that at the bottom dead center of the shaft the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest, on the contrary, it is extended. The second connecting rod is configured in the same way.
We glue the connecting rod with rubber to the membrane, and attach the other to the displacer.
We attach the legs from the paper clips to the jar with a soldering iron and attach the flywheel to the crank. For example, you can use a CD.
Stirling engine made at home. Now it remains to bring heat under the jar - light a candle. And after a few seconds, give a push to the flywheel.
How to Make a Simple Stirling Engine (with Photos and Video)
www.newphysicist.com
Let's make a Stirling engine.
A Stirling engine is a heat engine that works by cyclically compressing and expanding air or another gas (working fluid) at different temperatures so that there is a net conversion of thermal energy into mechanical work. More specifically, the Stirling engine is a closed cycle regenerative heat engine with a constantly gaseous working fluid.
Stirling engines are more efficient than steam engines and can reach 50% efficiency. They are also able to operate silently and can use almost any heat source. The thermal energy source is generated outside the Stirling engine, and not by internal combustion, as is the case for Otto or diesel cycle engines.
Stirling engines are compatible with alternative and renewable energy sources, because they may become more significant as the price of traditional fuels rises, and in light of issues such as depletion of oil reserves and changing of the climate.
In this project we will give you simple instructions to create a very simple engine DIY Stirling using test tube and syringe .
How to Make a Simple Stirling Engine - Video
Components and steps to make a Stirling motor
1. Piece of hardwood or plywood
This is the basis for your engine. Thus, it must be rigid enough to handle the movements of the engine. Then make three small holes as shown in the picture. You can also use plywood, wood, etc. 
2. Marble or glass beads
In a Stirling engine, these balls perform an important function. In this project, the marble acts as a hot air displacer from the warm side of the test tube to the cold side. When marble displaces hot air, it cools down.
3. Sticks and screws
Studs and screws are used to hold the tube in a comfortable position for free movement in any direction without any interruption.
4. Rubber pieces
Buy an eraser and cut it into the following shapes. It is used to securely hold the tube and maintain its tightness. There should be no leakage at the mouth of the tube. If so, the project will not be successful.
5. Syringe
The syringe is one of the most important and moving parts in simple engine Stirling. Add some lubricant to the inside of the syringe so that the plunger can move freely inside the barrel. As the air expands inside the test tube, it pushes the piston down. As a result, the syringe barrel moves up. At the same time, the marble rolls towards the hot side of the tube and pushes the hot air out and causes it to cool (reduce volume).
6. Test tube The test tube is the most important and working component of a simple Stirling engine. The test tube is made of a certain type of glass (such as borosilicate glass) that is highly heat resistant. So it can be heated to high temperatures.
How does a Stirling engine work?
Some people say Stirling engines are simple. If this is true, then just like the great equations of physics (e.g. E = mc2), they are simple: they are simple on the surface, but richer, more complex, and potentially very confusing until you realize them. I think it's safer to think of Stirling engines as complex: many very bad YouTube videos show how easy it is to "explain" them in a very incomplete and unsatisfactory way.
In my opinion, you can't understand a Stirling engine just by building it or watching it work from the outside: you need to seriously think about the cycle of steps it goes through, what happens to the gas inside, and how it differs from what happens in a conventional steam engine.
All that is required for the operation of the engine is the presence of a temperature difference between the hot and cold parts of the gas chamber. Models have been built that can only operate with a temperature difference of 4 °C, although factory motors will likely operate with a difference of several hundred degrees. These engines may become the most efficient form of internal combustion engine.
Stirling engines and concentrated solar energy
Stirling engines provide a neat method of converting thermal energy into motion that can drive a generator. The most common arrangement is to have the engine at the center of a parabolic mirror. The mirror will be mounted on the tracker to focus the sun's rays on the engine.
* Stirling engine as receiver
You may have played with convex lenses in school years. Concentration solar energy for burning a piece of paper or a match, am I right? New technologies are developing day by day. Concentrated Solar thermal energy is gaining more and more attention these days.
Above is a short video of a simple test tube motor using glass beads as a propellant and a glass syringe as a force piston.
This simple Stirling engine was built from materials that are available in most school science labs and can be used to demonstrate a simple heat engine.
Pressure-volume per cycle diagram
Process 1 → 2 Expansion of the working gas at the hot end of the tube, heat is transferred to the gas and the gas expands, increasing the volume and pushing the syringe plunger up.
Process 2 → 3 As the marble moves towards the hot end of the tube, the gas is forced from the hot end of the tube to the cold end, and as the gas moves, it gives off heat to the wall of the tube.
Process 3 → 4 Heat is removed from the working gas and the volume decreases, the syringe plunger moves down.
Process 4 → 1 Ends the cycle. The working gas moves from the cold end of the tube to the hot end as the marbles displace it, receiving heat from the wall of the tube as it moves, thus increasing the pressure of the gas.
The Stirling engine, once famous, was forgotten for a long time due to widespread another motor (internal combustion). But today we hear more and more about him. Maybe he has a chance to become more popular and find his place in the new modification in the modern world?
History
The Stirling engine is a heat engine that was invented in the early nineteenth century. The author, as you know, was a certain Stirling named Robert, a priest from Scotland. The device is an external combustion engine, where the body moves in a closed container, constantly changing its temperature.
Due to the spread of another type of motor, it was almost forgotten. Nevertheless, thanks to its advantages, today the Stirling engine (many amateurs build it at home with their own hands) is back again.
The main difference from an internal combustion engine is that the heat energy comes from outside, and is not generated in the engine itself, as in an internal combustion engine.
Principle of operation
You can imagine a closed air volume enclosed in a housing having a membrane, that is, a piston. When the body is heated, the air expands and does work, thus arching the piston. Then cooling occurs, and it bends again. This is the cycle of the mechanism.
It is no wonder that many do-it-yourself thermoacoustic Stirling engines are made at home. The tools and materials for this require the very minimum that everyone has in their home. Consider two different ways how easy it is to create.
Work materials
To make a Stirling engine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- tin;
- steel spoke;
- brass tube;
- hacksaw;
- file;
- wooden stand;
- metal scissors;
- fastener details;
- soldering iron;
- soldering;
- solder;
- machine.
It's all. The rest is a matter of simple technique.
How to do
A firebox and two cylinders for the base are prepared from tin, of which the Stirling engine, made by hand, will consist. Dimensions are selected independently, taking into account the purposes for which this device is intended. Suppose the motor is being made for demonstration purposes. Then the sweep of the main cylinder will be from twenty to twenty-five centimeters, no more. The rest of the parts should fit in with it.
At the top of the cylinder for moving the piston, two protrusions and holes with a diameter of four to five millimeters are made. The elements will act as bearings for the location of the crank device.
Next, they make the working body of the motor (it will become ordinary water). Tin circles are soldered to the cylinder, which is rolled up into a pipe. Holes are made in them and brass tubes are inserted from twenty-five to thirty-five centimeters in length and with a diameter of four to five millimeters. At the end, they check how tight the chamber has become by filling it with water.
Next comes the turn of the displacer. For manufacturing, a blank is taken from wood. On the machine, they achieve that it takes the form of a regular cylinder. The displacer should be slightly smaller than the cylinder diameter. Optimal Height they pick it up after the Stirling engine is made with their own hands. Therefore, at this stage, the length should assume some margin.
The spoke is turned into a cylinder rod. In the center of the wooden container, make a hole suitable for the stem, insert it. In the upper part of the rod, it is necessary to provide a place for the connecting rod device.
Then they take copper tubes four and a half centimeters long and two and a half centimeters in diameter. A circle of tin is soldered to the cylinder. On the sides on the walls, a hole is made to communicate the container with the cylinder.
The piston is also adjusted to lathe under the diameter of the large cylinder from the inside. At the top, the rod is connected in a hinged way.
The assembly is completed and the mechanism is adjusted. To do this, the piston is inserted into a larger cylinder and the latter is connected to another smaller cylinder.
A crank mechanism is built on a large cylinder. Fix part of the engine with a soldering iron. The main parts are fixed on a wooden base.
The cylinder is filled with water and a candle is placed under the bottom. The Stirling engine, made by hand from start to finish, is checked for performance.
Second way: materials
The engine can be made in another way. For this you will need the following materials:
- tin;
- foam rubber;
- paperclips;
- disks;
- two bolts.
How to do
Foam rubber is very often used to make home simple not powerful engine Stirling by hand. A displacer for the motor is prepared from it. Cut out the foam circle. The diameter should be slightly smaller than tin can, and the height is slightly more than half.
A hole is made in the center of the cover for the future connecting rod. To make it go smoothly, the paper clip is rolled into a spiral and soldered to the lid.
The foam circle in the middle is pierced thin wire with a screw and fix it on top with a washer. Then connect a piece of paper clip by soldering.
The displacer is pushed into the hole on the lid and the jar is connected to the lid by soldering to seal. A small loop is made on the paper clip, and another, larger hole is made in the lid.
The tin sheet is rolled into a cylinder and soldered, and then attached to the can so that there are no gaps at all.
The paper clip is turned into a crankshaft. The spacing should be exactly ninety degrees. The knee above the cylinder is made slightly larger than the other.
The remaining paper clips turn into racks for the shaft. The membrane is made as follows: the cylinder is wrapped in a polyethylene film, pressed through and fastened with a thread.
The connecting rod is made from a paper clip, which is inserted into a piece of rubber, and the finished part is attached to the membrane. The length of the connecting rod is made such that at the lower shaft point the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest point it is extended. The second part of the connecting rod is made in the same way.
Then one is glued to the membrane, and the other to the displacer.
Can legs can also be made from paper clips and soldered. For the crank, a CD is used.
Here is the whole mechanism. It remains only to substitute and light a candle under it, and then give a push through the flywheel.
Conclusion
Such low temperature engine Stirling (built with his own hands). Of course, on an industrial scale, such devices are manufactured in a completely different way. However, the principle remains the same: the air volume is heated and then cooled. And this is constantly repeated.
Finally, look at these drawings of the Stirling engine (you can do it yourself without any special skills). Maybe you are already on fire with the idea, and you want to do something similar?
Stirling's engine. For almost any do-it-yourselfer, this wonderful thing can become a real drug. It is enough to do it once and see it in action, as you want to do it again and again. The relative simplicity of these engines allows you to make them literally out of garbage. I won't dwell on general principles and device. There is a lot of information about this on the internet. For example: Wikipedia. Let's proceed immediately to the construction of the simplest low-temperature gamma-Stirling.
To build an engine with our own hands, we need two lids for glass jars. They will act as a cold and hot part. The rim is cut off from these covers with scissors 
A hole is made in the center of one lid. The size of the hole should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the future cylinder. 
Stirling engine housing cut from plastic bottle from under milk. These bottles are just divided into rings. We'll need one. It should be noted that at different varieties milk bottles may vary slightly. 
The case is glued to the cover with a plastic epoxy compound or sealant. 
The body of the marker is perfect as a cylinder. In this model, the cap is smaller in diameter than the marker itself and can become a piston. 
A small part is cut off from the marker. At the cap, a part is cut off from the top. 
This is a displacer. During the operation of the Stirling engine, it moves the air inside the case from the hot part to the cold part and vice versa. Made from sponge for washing dishes. A magnet is glued in the center. 
Since the top cover is made of sheet metal, it can be attracted by a magnet. The displacer may get stuck. To prevent this from happening, the magnet must be additionally fixed with a cardboard circle. 
The cap is filled with epoxy. Holes are drilled at both ends for attaching a magnet and a connecting rod holder. The threads in the holes are cut directly by the screw. These screws are needed for fine tuning the engine. The magnet in the piston is glued to the screw and is adjusted in such a way that, being in the lower part of the cylinder, it attracts the displacer. You will also need to glue a rubber limiter on this magnet. A piece of a bicycle tube or an eraser will do. The limiter is needed so that the piston and displacer magnets do not attract too much. Otherwise, there may not be enough pressure to break the magnetic bond. 
A rubber gasket is glued to the top of the piston. It is needed for tightness and to protect the casing from rupture. 
The piston housing is made from rubber glove. You need to cut off the little finger. 
After the casing is glued, another rubber gasket is glued on top. A hole is pierced through the rubber gaskets and casing with an awl. The connecting rod holder is screwed into this hole. This holder is made from a screw and a soldered washer. 
As a crankshaft holder, epoxy packaging was perfect. Exactly the same jar can be taken from under effervescent vitamins or aspirin. 
The bottom of this jar is cut off and holes are made. In the upper part - to hold the crankshaft. At the bottom - for access to the connecting rod mount. 
The crankshaft and connecting rod are made of wire. The white pieces are the limiter. Made from a lollipop tube. Small pieces are cut from this tube and the resulting parts are cut lengthwise. This makes them easier to put on. The height of the knee is determined by half the distance that the cylinder must travel from the lowest point to the highest point at which the magnetic connection ceases to operate. 
So, we are all set for the first test. First you need to check the tightness. You need to blow into the cylinder. All joints can be lathered with dishwashing liquid. The slightest air leak and the engine will not work. If everything is in order with the tightness, you can insert the piston and secure the casing with a rubber band.
In the lower position of the cylinder, the displacer should be attracted to the top. Then the whole structure is placed on a cup with hot water. After a while, the air inside the engine will begin to heat up and push the piston out. At a certain moment, the magnetic connection will be broken and the displacer will fall to the bottom. Thus, the air in the engine will cease to contact the heated part and begin to cool. The piston will start to retract. Ideally, the piston should begin to move up and down. But this may not happen. Either the pressure will not be enough to move the piston, or the air will heat up too much and the piston will not fully retract. Accordingly, this engine may have dead zones. It's not particularly scary. The main thing is that the dead zones are not too large. A flywheel is needed to compensate for dead zones.
Another very important part of this stage is that here you can feel the principle of the Stirling engine. I remember my first stirling that didn't work just because I couldn't figure out how and why this thing works. Here, helping the piston with your hands to go up and down, you can feel how the pressure rises and falls.
This design can be slightly improved by adding a syringe to the top cover. This syringe also needs to be put on epoxy, the needle holder should be cut a little. The position of the plunger in the syringe should be in the middle position. This syringe can regulate the volume of air inside the engine. Starting and adjusting will be much easier. 
So you can fit the crankshaft holder. The height of the connecting rod to the cylinder is adjusted by a screw. 
The flywheel is made from a CD. The hole is sealed with plastic epoxy. Then you need to drill a hole exactly in the center. Finding the center is very easy. Using Properties right triangle inscribed in a circle. His hypotenuse passes through the center. It is necessary to attach a sheet of paper at a right angle to the outskirts of the disk. Orientation is not important. In places where the sides of the sheet intersect with the edge of the disk, we put marks. A line drawn through these marks will pass through the center. If we draw the second line in a different place, then at the intersection we will get the exact center. 
All engine is ready. 
We put the Stirling engine on a cup of boiling water. We wait a bit and he should earn himself. If this does not happen, you need to help him a little with your hand. 
Video production process.
Stirling engine at work
Hello! Today I want to bring to your attention homemade engine, which converts any temperature difference into mechanical work:
Stirling's engine- a heat engine in which a liquid or gaseous working fluid moves in a closed volume, a kind of external combustion engine. It is based on periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid with the extraction of energy from the resulting change in the volume of the working fluid. It can work not only from fuel combustion, but also from any heat source.
I present to your attention my engine, made from pictures from the Internet:
Seeing this miracle, I had a desire to make it)) Moreover, there were many drawings and engine designs on the Internet. I will say right away: it is not difficult to do, but to adjust and achieve normal operation is a little problematic. It worked fine for me only the third time (I hope you won’t suffer like that)))).
Stirling engine working principle:
Everything is made from materials available to every brain:
Well, how about without sizes)))
The frame of the engine is made of wire from paper clips. All fixed wire connections are soldered()
The displacer (the disk that moves the air inside the engine) is made of drawing paper and glued with superglue (it is hollow inside):
The smaller the gap between the covers and the displacer in the upper and lower positions, the greater the efficiency of the engine.
The displacer rod is made from a blind rivet (manufacturing: carefully pull out the inner part and, if necessary, clean it with zero sandpaper; glue the outer part to the upper “cold” cover with the cap inward). But this option has a drawback - there is no complete tightness and there is little friction, although a drop of engine oil will help get rid of it.
Piston cylinder - neck from an ordinary plastic bottle:
The piston casing is made of a medical glove and secured with a thread, which, after winding, must be impregnated with superglue for reliability. A disk made of several layers of cardboard is glued in the center of the casing, on which the connecting rod is fixed.
The crankshaft is made from the same paper clips as the entire engine frame. the angle between the knees of the piston and the displacer is 90 degrees. The working stroke of the displacer is 5 mm; piston - 8mm.
Flywheel - consists of two CD discs that are glued to a cardboard cylinder and planted on the crankshaft axis.
So, stop talking nonsense, I present to you engine running video:
The difficulties I had were mainly due to excessive friction and lack of exact dimensions designs. in the first case, a drop of engine oil and crankshaft alignment corrected the situation, then in the second, you had to rely on intuition))) But as you can see, everything turned out (though I completely redid the engine 3 times))))
If you have any questions - write in the comments, we'll figure it out)))
Thank you for your attention)))
