Knight armor do it yourself. How to make a pea helmet how to make a paper armor with your own hands

"It suggests mastering new Material For crafts - cardboard. After all, if you approach any case creative, then our capabilities will be endless. Here the cardboard is so material from which it is possible to do anything (read how to do).

What do we know about him about cardboard? For us, this is an ordinary packaging material in which we either store unnecessary things, or immediately throw out on the trash. And so in vain! With it, you can create the most extraordinary crafts, and even interior items. Many believe that corrugated cardboard is a fragile material. However, an experiment was carried out in confirmation of its high strength, during which four ordinary cardboard Drawers set a car. And they sustained. Therefore, knowing the features of this material, people are already starting to use it non-standard.

We will do with you Knight armour.

We will need corrugated sheets. cardon, knife, glue, tape, wide summer and necessarily imagination.

Perper on the prepared sheets cardon Schemes patterns armpeople (You can use any other internet found or in books). Sharp knife B.do each item for 2 pieces (for this procedure, use adults).

Surface of parts Cover with a thin layer of glue. Press under pressure to each other. Start gluing the details better from the middle. Rear and facial part armpeople Leave clean. Before gluing on the back plate, attach fasteners. Use a wide ribbon for fasteners. After gluing, the product needs to dry well.

In the same way, make a shield, sword, sleeve, helmet.

If desired, you can make more complex kits knight armpeople. It all depends only on your desire.

For dessert, see what unusual crafts From cardboard, if you wish to make it yourself.

It is no secret that all boys love to play in the knights. In the course there are all the remedies. But where to get the armor? And let's do them together ...... We will need: fabric (in our case-ordinary frame), a little self-adhesive A zekal film (so that the armor is glittered by silver), bottle from under shampoo, threads, thick needle and any paper (we used old newspapers). Let's start with the "Armpelov": Crow from the border Men's Mike. I cut out "scales" from a shampoo from the shampoo, we glue them mirror film And they are not sewn "T-shirt". Thinks of our "T-shirts do not sew, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to wear on clothes, but we take a rubber band or string. According to the center of the chest, sew the coat of arms (on the selection of the knight). But one kidnap Failure and shield. We will do them from all the same paper.
We imprust the newspapers with ordinary Clauster, to which the wallpaper was used before (remember how firmly?) Cut from another wet sheets (layers at 100) 4 oval. Forming the "knight" the required bend and give drying. I will dry. We glue them with a mirror film, we make on the sides from one end of each oval holes and connect the ropes for mobility. (Tried elastic, but it makes it difficult to move) Make 4 holes in each part 2 on each side, insert rubber bands (to keep on the leg) As in the photo. Putting the same, but only 2 pieces.
Ahead is the most interesting: shield and helmet. The shield is made from the same "papier of Masha". The resulting sheet (layers in 20-25) cuts out any form according to your desire and design (we painted with silver, the convex pattern was formed from impregnated newspapers and enclosed by film). With a helmet a little more difficult



We formed it right on the head of the "knight", pre-put a bathing cap (but you can walk the floor. Package), the "visor" was glued on the neck of the back a little, the film was placed on the neck. It was made separately. Processes for the eyes were closed with a grid. Crash Noticeably and joined the same principle, as well as the Leggings. Ready for the feats!

How to make armor for cosplay aslan. Wrote in August 17th, 2017

I am a cosplay just a year and this is the second in my life, a full-fledged armor, which I made on my own and personally, of course.

Daedrik was the first of my armor, I did everything in the Nativity, whined tons of tutorials, urged the information where it turned out, but in general wandered in dotmakes, asking idiotic questions to consultants in building stores. Therefore, my first armor is made of fiberglass (from this material makes bodies for cars) based on paper model From the Pepakura, which is certainly very strong, but at the same time very heavy and incredibly strongly dragging movement (for example, it was impossible to bend the back or raise his hands above the shoulders. Yes, and weight - 15 kg.

Plus terribly smelly, time-consuming and painstaking process of its creation, tons of putty and dust with grinding. In general, all these moments led me to a more detailed study of the cosplay world and I learned about special materials that use cosplayers. So I made friends with Eva Foam. This is a material that resembles a conventional tourist foam, only more dense and when heated receiving fit form.

As far as I know, this material is produced in several places in Russia. Personally, I ordered from the supplier from Tolyatti. There are sheets of different thickness - 1,2,3,4,5, 10 mm. I took 5 mm as a basis and 2 mm for the relief.

In general, unlike the Pepakura, where the program makes you a pattern of 3D models and then glue it from paper, with Eva Foam you yourself make yourself a pattern. In some cases, do not do without a partner or own mannequin. So, how it is done.
First, you take a picture of the image that you want to implement.

Secondly, you start making patterns. Suppose a bib. I wear yourself with a food film, we glue the rapid tape with strips (it is strips, without winding out, otherwise everything will pass and the part will be small). Right on yourself celebrate where the necessary item begins and ends, you celebrate some important moments, joints, patterns, etc. Gently cut the greasy tape and now you have an outline of the part. Now it can be designated more smoothly, estimate like that.

Cut the item into several parts so that later we get them with a full and bulk part (Eva Foam, of course you can bend and by heating, but not infinitely). Next, transfer the part on the paper (I used the method - on a white tablet screen to put a sketch and impoverish paper over the sketch over the contours.

Cutting out of paper needed elements, It is necessary to try to connect them between themselves on the same gregarious tape and try the resulting. It will be much offended to immediately cut Eva Foam and swell. Then the paper with patterns pin to Eva Foam Pins and supply the contours, cut out. Eva Foam cuts out the usual stationery knife. When cutting it is better to consider how the items will be shrinking among themselves and cut them at the appropriate angle in relation to each other. And then I, for example, on the helmet from above, it turned out a sort of "comb", which then had to be allaconed. Although irregularities, in any case, after gluing have to be made by engraver or sandpaper.

As for glue ... there is different variants. Personally, I tried three. 1.Therty adhesive pistol. A huge minus, if it is hot, there is a possibility that the glue will float and the costume will disperse. 2. Second glue. Instantly glues everything and keeps perfectly. But terribly harmful and stinks. In the process of work, I generally showed allergic on him and there was a swelling of Qinkie. 3. Style good adhesive moment. With him you have to bother longer than with the second, but tolerant. Mazhet both bonded sides, wait for 10 minutes and glue. Holds perfectly.

If there is a chance to get confused in the cut parts, they are better to numbered, and then it will be too late.

After creating its black armor, I began to ratify that in a suit you could move normally and it was more or less convenient. Moreover, I have a habit of walking my cosplay images in hard modes - descend on skis or beard on the ski carnival, ride on a large.

Therefore, this time I paid great attention to the mobility of parts and fasteners. For a good knee bending, I planted their elements on iron rivets. Excellent parts mobility and everything is tight. On the same rivets attached a plate with feathers to the sloe. Excess chambers discharge engraver and everything is fine.

What used for fixing armor. Gum, velcro, buttons, hooks. All this is quite comfortable to Eva Foam and hides somewhere under patterns or joints.

I had a lot of questions and causes the processing of edges and cuts. I did it with grinding horses of engraver. Someone makes it a sandpaper simply. In any case, after such treatment, there are many irregularities and roughness. I tried to smooth them with a construction hairdryer. It became better, but not perfect. I was recommended to use the burner and the next time I test this method. To smooth the joints and seams, it is uncomfortable to use putty. For me the best option Is the finish two-component auto shutty. She tightly keeps and perfectly polished.

But she completely does not cover armor, and the material is porous ... In short, we will now go about the primer. And here the opinions of all the cosplayers respondents are diverged. The chip is that Eva Foam is pretty flexible material And the applied paint during bending will be wrinkled and cracks only. How to avoid this completely, I did not think that I didn't think and if you know, I will be very pleased with the Soviets. In general, I first tried the glue as a soil of PVA. I do not know why, but after applying acrylic black paint on it, he gave such an effect. And paint and completely descended by the film.

After that, reading different sources, I decided to primitive simply acrylic paint, That is, put more than the layers and due to this closure and align the material. Painted with a tassel. Then an aerosol for smooth color.

Then with a brush of silver and a little silver aerosol for even color. Then in places the finish of the gold acrylic. Varnish. Also a separate big question. I also did not completely solve him for myself. I tried to cover with a brush acrylic varnish. It will dry for a very long time and if it is details to put next to, they blind and spoil each other. Spit and covered with a varnish aerosol.

Why am I so worried about the primer, painting and varnish? Because as you can see in the picture below the small bend, the details leads to cracks ... I do not know how to solve this problem. Here and the soil and paint and varnish must be elastic ... and not peel ... apparently the next time I will test the liquid rubber.

Sword. Made of wood for rigidity. Wings on the sides are glued to epoxy. Grinding, making the relief with the help of pieces of Eva Foam, putty and grinding. "Stones" on a sword and armor of two-component cold welding. Primer, painting, varnish.

To the great regret, the artist from me so-so and give the volume of my armor as I wanted to fully not happen to me. I have to learn this yet.

About fastening on armor. Down up. The boot of boots behind is holding a very wide gum, the lining on the shoe is also on the elastic bands on the sock of the boot and between the heel and the toe on the elastic band from the top. Podpoles on rubber bands and buttons. Plus, I forgot to cover the production of the top of the knees and armor under the bib. This is an artificial black leather as a base. From above on it are pasted on the glue, the carved pieces of the same skin and all this is tinted with silver acrylic. So here. On the legs, the leather part of the knee pads is attached to the hooks, on the hooks with a small skin strip they are attached to the corset, so as not to slip. Also to the corset on the sides on velcro are boosters. By the way, under one of the booms there is a tricky pocket for your phone and money.

Corset from behind on velcro and hooks. Belt on hooks. Bib on elastic and hooks from behind as a bodice. Now harder. Shoulders are attached to the fastexes to the bib front, behind the elastic band among themselves, on a rubber band with hooks to the top violate, on the button to elbow. Lower two-stroke. The bottom as a bracelet on a rubber band, top on an elastic band with buttons.
Cloak on hooks front to armor and buttons to the shoe.

By the way, I forgot to write about gloves. These are simple fabric gloves (in the fabric store 100 p), on top of the thermoclayer cut pieces of fine eva.
Well, in principle, everything, it made it all about 2 months.

This article will familiarize you with the creation process. naughty hands Light and durable reservation from the material called Wonderflex.

Wonderflex is a very universal material, but there are certain restrictions on its application.

In the above images, all parts of the armor, with the exception of the helmet, were made from the Wonderflex and APOXIE combination.

Step 1: What is Wonderflex?

Wonderflex is a low-melting thermoplastic (the temperature "activation" 150 ° -170 ° F), with a woven fibrous substrate on one side. When heated, the material can stretch, repeat the shape of the workpiece.

Wonderflex sheets can be connected together. The more you heat the material, the stronger there will be a connection. I recommend using for heating heat gunsBut you can also warm up smaller pieces in the microwave oven.

Take the "under the condition" that most people have a house: markers, rules, well-lit jobs. I would like to offer a set of tools for working with WonderFlex:

• Thermal gun;
• Traumatological scissors (they have a serrated edge, which allows you to cut 3 layers of Wonderflex quite easily);
• Handpoint (Wonderflex is pretty badly drilled. For clean holes, the Pobbler is best);
• Roller - for gluing sheets together;

• Billets for forming armored elements;
• Grinding sponges - for smoothing material texture;
• Polyester filler and primer;
• Soldering iron;
• Respirator, gloves and goggles;

For bulk parts, we will use the material called Apoxie Sculpt (clay), which is hardening overnight, dries, almost without shrinkage and easily grinding. When working with APOXIE, some tools for working with clay can be useful.

Step 3: Create armor templates

Any project always begins with drawings. There are many ways to get them. First of all, if the image of the desired replica is in a video game, an experienced wizard will be able to extract files in the form of a 3D model with which you can conduct manipulations.

I had a mannequin, which corresponded to the sizes of my body. After printing the set of armor templates, connect the sticky ribbon part together to visualize the form of the armor. If pieces do not correspond to each other and need additional adjustment, make the necessary changes to the template, and then print a new piece.

Paper is a good analog for Wonderflex. Spend time to fit templates. If you can configure all the items properly, in the future you can save a lot of time and avoid big disappointments, while attempts to form Wonderflex.

Step 4: Increase sheet thickness

After the templates are sorted, it's time to translate them to wonderflex.

The thickness of one layer is actually quite small and the material will not keep the specified form with any effect on it. In addition, when forming parts from only one layer, the material will be frowning along those areas that are stretched. To solve this problem, connect together several sheets, before you form a part of the costume.

For large squares, such as breasts and spin, it was decided to use three layers. We heat them with a heat gun, then rolling with a roller. In order to pre-screen the sheets together and they did not move during rolling, you can use a pin or similar subject. However, I recommend first convincing that the heated Wonderflex will not adhere to the surface of the roller. My roller has a silicone drum, so it was not a problem.

For other parts that are not so intensely susceptible to wear (shoulders and hips), we use 2 sheets to make the preliminary basis for armor elements.

Step 5: The main components

After the sheets are sealed, it's time to cut blanks.

It is much easier to cut the shape of a preformed piece of sideways. After all, if you cut a piece, and then stretch it in shape, then ultimately the result will be "cryption".

The first picture shows the "empty" panel. This part was made of 2 wonderflex layers. We use the old plastic pipe (You can take any non-porous and heat resistant material) To achieve the desired curvature. You can use major adapters from PVC pipe - Strict lines and high heat resistance will make them an excellent tool for Wonderflex molding. In order to prevent sticking, cover a part of the sheet with a metallized scotch.

To cool the simple forms, we use a bucket with cold water.

After heating the sheet, we give it the necessary shape, then immerse it into the water. For a complete cooling, it is enough about 5 minutes (in the air), but using the "bucket" method takes a second.

After you got the desired shape, take the pattern and circle it on the workpiece. We use small clamps to fix the template during the drawing.

After transferring the patterns of the template, just cut the desired form. As wrote before, traumatological scissors used for cutting wonderflex. Although the stationery knife is also perfect.

Step 6: Gray, form, we strove, repeat ...

There are some parts of the armor that cannot be obtained in the way.

Unlike the previous stage, it is necessary to transfer the drawing and only after that gradually form a costume element.

Starting from the tibia, formed the main details using a mannequin foot. While this allowed me to achieve fairly accurate basic forms, minor wrinkles and wavy edges remained. In this case, to smooth them, they must be concentrated on the same area, heat it, form the bends, and then soak in the bucket with icewater.

Step 7:

In Figure 2, you can see the method of forming sections of the back and chest. Since these details are too large to accommodate in a bucket with ice water, starting the heating process with the placement from above. wet towels. After completion, the billet is covered with a second towel moistened in ice water.

This process is repeated several times, until it reaches the desired form. It took several passes and stretching in the corners and edges to get to this "point".

In the figure, you can see the front chest plate after molding. Let's make small cuts along the hands and neck in order to stretch the shape along the edge and increase the curvature. Then cover them with thin wonderflex strips to strengthen the seams. If armor should be smooth in these areas, you can close these cuts from the reverse side so that the finish had a smooth view.

After the parts are formed, a good idea will try on them on the mannequin to make sure that all the seams coincide.

Step 8: add superimposed parts

Wonderflex works great with large surfaces and wide forms, but for more definite areas and clear parts, you will need to use another material.

I prefer to use the 2-component epoxy clay "APOXIE SCULPT". All volumetric parts, with the exception of target parts, were molded out of it.

I would like to note, the placement of additional parts (on the tibia) will allow to hide the seam line between two half of the Wonderflex and make the surface of the armor element in a single integer. Apoxie is quite well processed by abrasive.

For the manufacture of rivets for armor, we use furniture nails. We will prelay the hole, cut the pointed end and superclose them to the place.

Step 9: Spin and smoothing the surface

Previously do not forget to wear a respirator. All work should be done on the street or in a well-ventilated room.

The first step will be the processing of coarse emery paper formed details of armor. Depending on how well you cut the form process can be either very short or very long.

After the clay surface is leveled, cover parts by automotive primer in three layers. All small bumps and ripples will need to smooth out. For small defects We will use the smelter as a filler. On the details that will be prone to bend, it is important to apply small layers of putty, because it can break during the beggars.

For breasts and backs, which have many small dents, use the grinding method with a sponge.

If you have areas with deep defects or large dents, you can use a polyester filler. This filler can be slightly bent, which allows WonderFlex not to fully become tough.

After applying the filler, I will appline a couple of primer layers. If you are going to make the surface of the armor, you can leave some external defects.

Shlifuya wonderflex You can get edges from which fiber sticks out. Fast passage hot knife or soldering iron fix this problem.

Make a sketch of your future armor. It is better to focus on the basic forms (their size and on how to connect parts of the armor) than on color and on the details that can be engaged later. Decide where and how separate details Will be connected so that the armor remains flexible. Simplify the design as much as you can, so that many details are not overwhelmed with each other and so that they do not have to connect them in many places (it will weaken the design). You can also search for ready-made templates of online armorings, some of them you can even print.

Remove the measurements per person so that the armor suits the size (mark the size of the armor, for example, S, M or L). Write down all the necessary volumes that need a helmet, bib, lats on shoulders and other variety of coatings. Although it will not be your the main support When choosing the magnitude of the armor, it will be useful whenever you cut, connect or make any changes in which you may not be sure.

Transfer your measurements on stencils (template) of armor. You will handle faster if your friend will keep pieces of flexible and hard paper (like cardboard) in front of you and draw every detail of the sketch separately, making a rough stroke so that you can then redo how you need. More accurately, if you do a mannequin to collect paper stencil around him.

Purify the stencil final form. Make sure you have all the necessary details and, if necessary, tap them in size. If the template consists of 2 identical parts (two plates on the shin, two gloves, etc.), choose the best of them, and throw away the other. Thus, the best you can use as a sample for the second so that your armor is symmetrical. When you are satisfied with the result, clean and soften the stroke, mark the original sketch and the item corresponding to it (noting what will be duplicated) and you can cut.

Transfer stencil on the leaf foam. Circle every detail on sheet foam ballpoint ball (She will slide on the foam not clinging and not scratching it), if necessary, rolling the second time. To make very large details, you may need to make 2 foam sheet together, it is desirable where it is less noticeable and can merge with the design (for example, seams in the center of the bib). Put the wrong and cut the items.

• In order to save the foam to use, first circle large parts, and then contain small around them.