DIY DIY Hello, my dear readers! Greetings videos, fiction!

I will not open America, if I say, the tree is the cheapest and affordable material for needlework creativity. Kornki, twigs, beautifully curved bitches are literally lying under their feet. Take and create original products at home ...

60 products made of wood with your own hands: photos, diagrams, video

DIY DIY

Hello, my dear readers! Greetings videos, fiction! I will not open America, if I say, the tree is the cheapest and affordable material for needlework creativity.

Roots, twigs, beautifully curved bitches are literally lying under their feet. Take and create at home the original products from the tree do it yourself!

To you, my dear readers, it was clear how beautiful handicrafts are obtained from wood material, show visual photos.

What can be made with your own hands

See, be surprised and inspired to create your own exclusive masterpieces!

A real Russian fairy tale is settled on any household plot, if it is used to use birch. Funny little men, a donkey with a cart, a train, a bunnies made of sleeps will be a reason for a fun smile and a summer joyful mood.

In the backyard of the cottage will be much more comfortable if you put out unusual garden furniture there. For example, armchairs, wrapped from a whole log or cute benches for floral seedlings.

On the entire site, you can put the hemp with pillows that will serve as convenient chairs, and if they are backlit to them, at night they will become multi-colored fireflies.

In the home furnishings, creative products made of wood make notes of natural naturalness. What they just do not drink from a shapeless piece of wood: original shelves, watches, vases, candle holders.

Special flavor acquire pictures of sleeps, wooden installations, and rugs, stands and coffee tables look like desired guests from the forest.

Do not forget the masters and about the holidays! By the new year, the odorous trees of pine trees are peeled, plasten wooden toys and decorate life with unusual magic crafts.

Liked simple wooden products? Sure, yes! It is impossible to remain indifferent to such natural beauty. Do you want to create unique homemade from wood with your own hands? Then read the article to the end, learn detailed master classes and take on arms.

From the wood material, you can cut a flap for soup, and you can build a real ship and go to long sailing.

Now for 1 minute I will teach you, dear readers, distinguish the types of wood products:

1. Turning. It is clear that these are objects made on the lathe. Easy design, the device allows you to give wooden hemp ideal forms. Tokari on the machine drink dishes, vases, bales for stairs and even magnificent sculptures.
2. Carpentry. In the workshops, skillful masters of simple boards or flights create useful joinery for life. Stolyarov can be ordered furniture, a curved staircase, a gazebo for giving, doors, a cozy booth for the beloved dog.
3. Exclusive. And the third category that combines non-standard manual crafts. If there are no duplicating machines at home or in the garage, but there is only fantasy and the desire to create, you can still create beautiful wooden products with your own hands.

Let's show on the example, as an experienced joiner makes a luxurious table on wheels. And what is he collecting him? Do not believe from unnecessary boxes.

Pallets - wooden packaging for the carriage of heavy loads. They are in great demand from the masters.

For half an hour of soulless boxes, functional interior items collect, and how they do it, will show a visual master class.

Have you seen how homemade masters are collecting a mini-lathe from the girlfriend? It is interesting! See a short video clip that will demonstrate the assembly of a miracle unit from simple details in 30 minutes.

Wood joinery for sale

Masters, in whose hands, ordinary boards or hemp acquire the perfect form, enjoy great respect in society. In Soviet times in labor lessons, all boys were in mandatory studied to make a stool.

And now with the 5th grade, the subject "Technology" instills the guys elementary household skills. If the guy has thrust for a joinery, then he will definitely find home tools, unnecessary boards and focus a birdhouse, a feeder for small feathered friends.

Note to parents! The joiner is an artist and sculptor in one person.

If the child has abilities from childhood from childhood, it is not necessary to prepare it in the medical institute. Good joiner is a man with a natural talent that can create useful things and make money as a practitioner surgeon.

See how modern joiners look like. Almost like famous actors or rock stars, but the case they can be compared with high art. It is noticeable that these guys earn well in real life, and on the YouTube channel their master classes collect millions of views.

What products from wood for sale are in high demand?

The list is quite extensive and compiled according to the degree of popularity:

• frames, doors, stairs;
• furniture for home and office;
• hedges, fences, garden gazebos;
• small household items - Rolls, Boards, Mops, Stands;
• children's toys and board games (chess, backgammon);
• dishes;
• souvenirs;
• musical instruments;
• icons.

Most carpentry products are made to order, and the income from experienced joiners is 100-150% of the invested funds. The production of molding products (items from boards, timber, lining) for sale has more advantages than minuses.

Stolyar need a large room, technical devices, high-quality material for work. The production process is dusty and harmful to health. But the pleasure and financial benefits that the master gets from creativity, with more than cover technical difficulties.

Let's see how real masters work? Let's! The highest discharge joiner from the array creates a simple, fashionable and comfortable furniture. When you watch step-by-step photos of the creative process, think, so much will work as a master when selling such a chair.

And now I propose to relax and admire the work of this artist. Watch how skillful carpenter works nice, informative and interesting!

It is especially useful to browse such videos of adolescents who are at the crossroads and are in search of themselves.

Wood products with drawings: Mastery at home

The masters continue to work wonders with wood material and generously divide photos with drawings.

What would you like to make from ordinary boards?

Let's first make a simple organizer to fill your hand for further technically complex works.

The diagram shows the details, their size and assembly process. And stylish decorations, minor additions each wizard creates to your taste.

Each guy at least once in life must collect a birdhouse with their own hands. And how to do it, show a visual scheme of work.

How fast and beautifully make a garden table? That's how!

See the visual drawing, collect from ordinary boards an important subject of ego.

And in order not to be bored in the country, make wooden backgammon. Take two beautiful panels, rails, screws, read the scheme. And half an hour in the skillful hands, a handful of materials will turn into a solid useful design.

Tree crafts for beginners: Master classes for children 12 years old and older

It is no secret that creative classes are useful to teenagers. They develop creative thinking, fantasy, perfection. Let's go together with the children to learn how to create small crafts from the roots, twigs and other little things, and beautiful items created by their own hands will definitely decorate the interior of the teenage room.

Master class number 1 - fabulous gazebo

For a pretty gazeboo, a plastic cup, cardboard, twigs, pebbles and hot glue. And how to collect it? Very simple, see visual photos.

Master Class No. 2 - Garage for Machine

Boys like the next exciting lesson. From all sorts of twigs and sticks, the young master collects a garage for a steep car. Dear guys, watch the photo, turn into a step-by-step process and also create a beauty of the cast material.

Master class # 3 - Furniture for a doll house

Little princesses are dedicated to the third interesting lesson. From branches, cardboard, pieces of fabric made items for puppet use. Pope or Moms, looking at the photo, will be able to create wonderful things from small trees with the child.

Caught an idea? She is ingenious in his simplicity! Collect along with children on a walk all sorts of roots, twigs, straws and with hot glue Create creative things.

Souvenirs from wood - homemade homemade

Masters from girlfriend, which are worth a penny, create artistic products of the highest level. Want to see how the real miracle is born of a resin and tree? Then watch a step-by-step photo! Such crafts admire and motivate to create their own unique masterpieces.

First, the joiner pulls out a cone-shaped billet.

Then it climbs a piece of wood so that the uneven cut of a kind of form remains. With the help of a plastic cup and scotch creates a container to fill. Mixes epoxy resin, hardener, polishing varnish, add a little dye for Easter eggs and pours the mixture into the mold.

When the epoxy glue is pouring, it hits the workpiece on the same lathe, giving it the shape of a Christmas tree.

After the processing of eats, the polyrols of the handicraft acquires the finished look and in the dark slightly glows, transmitting the beauty of the debris and frozen resin.

Do you want to get acquainted with the master who creates incredible paintings from the tree bark? An old-year artist collects in the park everything that lies under the legs. Then at the domestic workshop collects almost from the garbage its artistic masterpieces for sale.

For grandmothers in pensions, working with a tree is a wonderful creative activity, it is very useful for physical, psychological health and replenishment of the wallet.

Another experienced master in years works with bark bark. This natural material has a special texture and a unique picture. A diligent master works painstakingly, putting the soul into creative crafts.

At first he soaked the bark in hot water under the lid, then he keeps under the press, in conclusion sticks the basis and processes the special composition.

It turns out a wonderful birch tile, which can decorate the walls, include in the furniture assembly. As the Russian proverb says, hero on fiction of the cherry.

This is accurate, people who are not spoiled by big money create beauty from what generously gives mother-nature.

I want to please my expensive readers and show a wonderful roller with a jewelry carving. Art is called "Woodcarving", and the masters working in this technique are found in all countries of the world. Have you ever seen what wonderful gifts are made of wood made by experienced rabbits? If you have not seen, then look at all eyes and surprise the beauty of the souvenirs created.

So that the article was filled with examples, I collected a photo of creative furniture, useful garden items that were created from unnecessary boxes. See, choose ideas for your office, at home or cottages!

I am sure that each reader of this article has a desire to do something from the tree with their own hands. Dare! Collect the twigs tomorrow, dry bitch in the park and create a small artistic miracle. We write about the results in x, and also press the buttons of social networks and share references with friends.

Waiting for you again at a party on informative blog pages! Come on, always glad!

Sincerely, Natalia Krasnova.

What is the equipment for a joinery workshop, how to learn how to work with a tree, what tools to get - experienced and ideas are divided by forumhouse

Stainwork is not only a room for working with a tree. These are a hobby, which are passionate about many men. After all, it allows you to make everything necessary for home and the site with your own hands - from furniture to the gazebo. What equipment a carpentry workshop is needed, how and where to equip this room to make it convenient and safe to work, what tools to get from what to start, how to learn how to work with a tree, that in general it is possible to make it - experienced and ideas in general, forumhouse.

Articles:

Arrangement of a joinery workshop. The need for a small carpentry workshop in those who are engaged in household exists always. And if you do not know what room the wood workshop should be located, how to plan it, which is primarily placed inside it, which joinery tools beginnier joiner do not acquire - read this article to the end.

Carpentry for home workshop.

Wooden fantasies. Unusual joinery. No matter how many new synthetic materials appear for construction and decor, the tree remains necessary, indispensable and loved at all times. Of the plastic and militant wood, the wizard of the joinery continues to create their masterpieces. Working with a tree does not obsole. From this review you will learn what unexpected things can be made from this most environmentally friendly and affordable material.

Joiner's workbench do it yourself. If the main tools of the blacksmith are hammer and anvil, then there is nothing "relative" for the joiner than his workbench. It is the workshop that can simultaneously be a barrier and assembly table, focusing and stand, tool storage device and even if you want a small joinery.

Dryer for wood with their own hands. The problem of maintaining optimal humidity in lumber is relevant both among builders and among lovers to make anything in their own carpentry workshop. Drying wood at home allows you to safely save on her purchase, because dry raw materials is always more expensive than wet.

Plant - so harvest! The electrical planer is the most important tool for anyone who deals with wood processing or is going to learn this craft, and during construction or repair it can become an indispensable assistant. The electrolake is brought to the desired dimensions, align the surfaces, remove the jar, burrs and knots, cut the edges, select the grooves. How to choose this power tool - we understand the article.

Saw helper. In the household and on the household plot saw - an indispensable tool for which there is always a job. Which saw is better - gasoline or electrical with comparison of functionality and prices read on Forumhouse.

Scaffolding with their own hands - a recipe from FORUMHOUSE. Sooner or later, the construction of the cottage comes to the finish of the facade. And then the question arises: how to carry out work in the range of heights from 4 to 10 meters, because you need to "strip" the frontones, and siding mounted, and install the drainage system. Output one - put the scaffolding. Forumhouse experts tell me how to make them alone.

Video:

Crafting table. What should be the workplace of the joiner - a cabinet driver, tells the famous master of Vsevolod Poltavtsev who has its own carpentry workshop in Moscow. The work of a cabinet driver boils for a special workplace - workbench. And this is not just a table or tool - this is an accurate mechanism, the manufacture of which requires a lot of experience and effort.

Furniture do it yourself. Non-standard solutions. Sergey Ilyin built the house almost completely with his own hands, and after, having the necessary machines for the joinery workshop, the furniture also decided to do himself. For several reasons. Even, one can say with a philosophical approach to its manufacture. From low-cost furniture shields, he made a kitchen, an office, various cabinets, racks. Implemented several non-standard ideas - furnished room, wardrobe, furniture facilitating cleaning. In the plot, the amateur is shaken, it is divided into what results gave his work with the tree with their own hands.

Tools in a joinery workshop. Recommendations of a specialist. A carpentry case for Alexander Koldinikova is a hobby, and the profession at the same time. In the video, Alexander advises how to properly equip his carpentry workshop. What machines are needed for the joinery workshop, what are the necessary tools of the joinery workshop, what raree tools he would recommend buy, especially if you are going to make joinery to order. And also tells about the device of the milling machine, made by hand from the primary materials.

Garage and joiner workshop in one building. Alexander - Moscow carpenter, and makes wooden windows itself. In the acquired country site, he needed a place for work, and he decided to combine the joinery workshop with a garage. By installing carpentry tools and machines, he began to work!

Making a simple attic staircase. In details. With the help of a carpenter, we demonstrate all stages. Production of a simple attic staircase from oak.

Wooden stairs. Often the staircase installed in a wooden house, after time, changes its geometry and begins to shift relative to the main design. But errors can be avoided. How to do this, tells the chamber-chamber Denis Andreev. And at the same time will give a professional advice for those who like to make furniture with their own hands.

Wood formation. Master Class. Braching is a special technology for structuring wood, thanks to which products from wood acquire a noble aged look. In the plot - a master class from the architect Sergey Petrov on the formation of wood for furniture. The method shown by Sergey allows you to make a blackboard smooth, pleasant to the touch and, which is very important for furniture, - without a reference.

Theme on the forum:

The word is the third of the workshop of the joiner ... This topic is a real practical encyclopedia, which you can sing: "Joiner's workshop, tools and equipment." Here everyone who loves to work with the tree and does it every day, will find for themselves the most different useful information - from cleaning air in the joinery workshop and equipment of this room with necessary inexpensive tools to interesting ideas with drawings for the manufacture of wooden products.

Stainwork for home and summer cottages is another multi-volume topic about technologies that can be used to process wood and techniques for working with a woodworking tool. Here the forum users share their secrets and personal experience.

Turning wood. dGUSEPEhe opened a separate theme about the fascinating lesson - the trecent of the tree, and began "with Azov" - safety equipment. Come see what products he and other forum users have managed to make it easier.

Selection of the mill. Handmade woodworking power tools for milling is another good assistant joiner, especially when the joinery is about to grow up to the size of a large shop. Processing the edges, cut the grooves, drill holes - not a complete list of work with which it can easily cope. Provided if you reacted to its purchase with understanding of the case, and not just chose the most inexpensive.

Woodworking

Of course, it is easy to go to the store and purchase a ready-made toy from a tree or any other material that you like. But much more interesting and more pleasant to make a thing himself. Wood products are known to people from time immemorial. Very and very long ago, our ancestors did not know artificial materials (such as plastic, polymers, etc.) and most of the meaning of household goods were made from the tree. All furniture in housing at our great-grandfather was wooden, made of dishes, caskets, toys and even decorations from the same material.

A tree is truly unusual material with which nothing can be compared in warmth, the instrument tool and environmental friendliness. Production of products from it with their own hands is quite painstaking work, which, however, brings a lot of joy. Make a thing with your own hands is not so difficult, there would be a desire and skillful hands. The work itself usually takes a certain time, but then, appreciating the result, you can say that it was spent not in vain.

The most interesting thing in the woodwork is that you can create an unusual thing that you will not find in the store. In addition, such will not have any of your friends and acquaintances. Of course, in addition to the desire to do something with your own hands, you will need tools, drawings, sketches of finished projects and, naturally, useful tips. You can come up with a toy myself, but still first practice on the samples offered in this book with ready-made sketches.

In addition, you can work on a wooden product not one, but with a friend. It will be more fun, and you can help each other. Just agree in advance, which part of the work will perform. Perhaps not all will immediately get. But do not be upset, because the skill comes with experience. The main thing in any work is the effort, and then everything will definitely work out.

How to organize a workplace

For any activity, it is very important to properly organize a workplace. In order for you to work with wood and other materials at home, you need a separate corner. Usually at school for this weigh the whole room - workshop. It is convenient to work in it, as well as it is usually equipped with everything necessary. Of course, at home, it is often not possible to highlight the whole room under the workshop. However, there is a way out: organize in your room the work area. If you do everything right, it will not take much space.

The corner of labor should be well lit by the day. You also need a table lamp, if suddenly you decide to make something in the evening. Before starting work, be sure to ventilate the room. In summer, it is best to work with a tree in the fresh air. For example, in the country, you can organize a corner of labor on an open veranda.

In order to make toys and crafts independently, you need a special workbench or table (Fig. 1). Its cover is made of dry dense wood (for example, birch, beech or ash), and the exposure is best made from pine. In addition, the height of the lid should be adjusted.

Fig. 1. Table for the corner of labor

To save the area of \u200b\u200byour room, pick up the workbench of a small size: height - 65-70 cm, length - 100-120 cm, and width - 30-40 cm. Special table can make anyone from older relatives for you, such as father, Grandfather or older brother. For fixing the workpieces will also need vice, which are attached on the workbench (Fig. 2). In special stores you can buy a children's collapsible workbench. Usually it has drawers and shelves in which you can store the tools and materials necessary during operation.

It is necessary to work for the workbenk, with straight shoulders, because you do not need a violation of posture.

Fig. 2. Visits

The light should fall on the left. After work, I also definitely carry out the room. Do not forget to follow security rules when working. But still it is desirable to have a first-face aid kit. It should contain hydrogen peroxide, green, bandage, leucoplasty, lead rim and paper napkins.

Masite is best in the work apron, so you will not spoil your clothes, staining it, for example, glue, varnish or something else. The workplace is removed after each work, because in the process of work on the table and semi usually sawdust, trimming and other trash. It is easy to always clean and neat.

Tools and materials that you need

Before working on wood, you, dear reader, you will need to purchase basic tools. They should be stored on separate shelves or in a conventional sectional cabinet. It is very important that you can easily take the right tool, so the height of the shelves must be comfortable.

Pliers are needed to pull out nails (Fig. 3). The length of the tool is 13-15 cm, and the mass should not exceed 100-200 g.

Fig. 3. Pliers

The joinery hammer (Fig. 4) consists of a handle and a steel rectangular head. The batche must be even so that it does not slip along the nail heap. It is desirable that its area is not very small. The hammer handle must be about 2.5 times the length of the head.

Fig. 4. Joiner's hammer

Basic saw in a sawing box (Fig. 5) will give you the opportunity to freeze without any danger and prepare the rail or skidding of a certain size. The saw box is needed so that the saw does not deviate from the desired direction. The standard dimensions of this tool must be as follows: The length of the web is 33 cm, the width is 1.5 cm, and the thickness is 0.1-1 mm, the frame - 33 x 28 cm, the strut - 33 cm. The box should be made of durable wood, for example From beech or maple.

The saw blade must be strengthened into the slots in the handles at an angle of 18 °. Under the same slope, slits are made for struts and handles. In the rollover or rake, the saws is mounted with a special clamping screw with a length of 8 cm.

The stand under the saw box should be made longer (approximately 26 cm) so that it performs 4-5 cm on each side. This makes it possible to attach it to the workbench clamps diagonally for the protruding parts.

Fig. 5. Basic saw in a sawing box

Saw-knife (Fig. 6) is constantly used in the manufacture of wooden products. To work, you will need various hacksaws:

Fig. 6. Saw-hacksaw

Fig. 7. Universal tree hacksaw

Fig. 8. Little saw-knife

Universal tree knife length about

Cm, the length of the canvas should be 21 cm, the length of the teeth is 3.5 mm, and their number is 4 per 1 cm (Fig. 7);

Little saw-knife with a length of 28 cm, the length of the canvas is 17 cm, the length of the teeth is 4 mm, and their number is 4 per 1 cm (Fig. 8);

Handsaw with a screw-shaped web length 35 cm, length of the canvas - 19 cm, and the length of the handle is 7 cm.

Fig. 9. Sawing box

During work, you will need to pour bars, boards and planks at a certain angle. All this is very convenient to do in a sawing box (Fig. 9). There are several designs of such boxes. Adult carpenters and carpenters, using sawing boxes, do not apply any special devices to secure blanks in them. They hold the bar or a blank free hand. But it is better for you to firmly fix the piliable item or the blank in the box, which is best to attach to the workbench.

In the manufacture of wooden toys, it is most often found by the details, pumped at an angle of 90 °. Some less often are parts, compiled at an angle of 45 °. And sometimes it is found and the need to sprinkle at a corner of 22.5 °. In this regard, you should have a set of sawing boxes, consisting of a combined box for two angle - 45 and 90 °. In addition, lightweight cylinder boxes will be needed - 45, 90s22.5 °. Such a box is very convenient if you need to cut a lot of blanks at different angles. If you need to repel the parts under the same angle, it is better to use a lightweight box adapted specifically for this angle.

For the manufacture of the saw box, use the wood of a strong rock, the oak, maple and beech are best fit. The boards must be fixed with screws 6-7 cm with shorts. Then the box should be attached to the workbench cover using clamps, so its bottom performs on both sides by 4 cm.

The thickness of the box of the box is usually 3 cm, and the height and width are 15 and 12 cm, respectively. The length of the product is depending on the magnitude of the angle, for the discharge of which it is needed. You should know that the following are considered constant dimensions:

5 cm from the center of the clamping screw hole (s) to the edge of the wall;

7 cm from the center of the clamping screw hole to the center of the cut for direct and stupid angles;

9 cm from the center of the clamping screw hole to the center of the cut for sharp corners.

In the event that there is a need for the manufacture of three rating boxes (90 °, 45 ° right and 45 ° left), the distance from the clamping screw to the cut 90 ° and the edges of the wall can be somewhat shorten. In this case, the length of the walls of the dialing boxes is 24, 26 and 36 cm.

To secure the boxes to the workbench cover, the box must be placed in such a way that its edges coincide with the edges of the cover.

Clamps should be imposed on 2 corners diagonally. As a result, the box turns out to be recorded in 2 setpoint places, which ensures its durable mounting to the desktop and gives stability that will not allow its offset or tipping.

Sponges of clamps put the bar attached at the corners in such a way that the entire bottom of the box width is completely free. Then you can put a blank in it exceeding its length.

On the treated rail or skid, the cut line is usually marked. Billet Insert into the box in such a way that this trait is in the shelfeel of the box, and fasten it with the clamping screws. The length of the presser screw should be at least 8 cm, the thread diameter is 10 mm, the length of the spark is 6 cm, and its diameter is 6 mm. When a small cross section is repeated, and its height or width is insufficient for reliable fixing with clamping screws, you need to put between it and the wall of the lining of the desired size.

When making a box for screws into its front wall, it is necessary to cut the lamellar nuts (6 x 6 cm in size and a thickness of 6-8 mm), and then strengthen them with screws or bolts. It is necessary to strictly follow the safety instructions during sawing not only in relation to the saw, but the gates of the clamping bolts, for which with a negligent circulation you can catch. Always keep your free hand in a safe place. To make the pressure screws of the desired position under them (that is, between the fixed by the workpiece and the front of the screw), it is necessary to put the pieces of cardboard. Screws keep deeply screwed into the box. If they strongly protrude out, unfold the box on the workbench in such a way that they are on the back wall. You can also first fix the workpiece in the sawing box with clamping screws, and then attach the box itself to the workbench.

Shilo (Fig. 10) will need it quite often. It is necessary to facilitate the rigging of nails in the wood, applying pre-markup, etc. You can use a round or quadrangular seer of 3 cm long with a handle with a length of at least 6-7 cm.

Fig. 10. Shilo

A file (Fig. 11) is used to remove sowing on a wooden surface. Its length is usually 20 cm, and the length of the handle is 10 cm. However, instead you can use sandpaper or rasp.

Fig. 11. Flying

Wooden hammer, or kiyanka (Fig. 12), is used in the case when a conventional hammer can damage the workpiece. The weight of this tool is usually about 200 g, the length of the handle is 20-25 cm, and the length of the hammer head is 12 cm.

Fig. 12. Wooden hammer, or kiyanka

Ticests (Fig. 13) You will need to clamp the part being processed. Their length should be 14 cm, the length of the clamping screw is 5 cm, and its heads - 6.5 cm.

Fig. 13. Teastochka

Kollet (Fig. 14) will need you to drill holes in wooden parts.

Nails are used to fasten wooden parts. They differ in width and length. The length of the nail must be more board thickness. It is desirable to take nails of different sizes (from 2 to 4 cm) with a wide hat.

Fig. 14. Kolotovot

The material that will be used for crafts must be perfectly acknowledged in order not to have the offering and when connections did not form gaps.

For your crafts, you will need a plank, bars, sawn and planed rails, as well as roundabouts mostly of soft wood - lime, pine, aspen, olhovy, beech, etc. Also need plywood plates: the best birch, because they are more Light and flexible.

Prevent materials in special sectional cabinets, on the shelves in size. Such an order will help you better navigate. In addition, the tools can also be kept in boxes that can be taken with you, for example, at the cottage during the summer holidays. For convenience, you can draw on each of them the sample of the material stored in it. In addition, you will need auxiliary material: twine, thin wire, fishing line, handles from tassels, coils, plasticine, flaps of matter, covers from tubes, colored paper, cases from thermometers, foam pieces, skin trimming, etc.

And now a little about the wood, because it is from her you will make your crafts. Its strength is directly dependent on breed, hardness and humidity. It is characterized by limits of compressive strength, bending, rocking and tension. Wood can also have the following vices:

Bounds - lively or dead base of branches that reduce strength and make much difficult to process;

Curvature is one or more bends in cross-section;

Roll is an abnormal thickening of the wood layer with a large increase in its hardness on a narrower side and a core displacement;

Koslana is the oblique direction of fibers leading to the charge;

Swearing is irregularly in the structure of wood, when fibers have a sharply wavy character;

Schmelok - a plot of wood of coniferous rocks, rudely impregnated with a resin, which reduces the strength of wood;

Wathly - sections of wood of high humidity, resulting in the formation of cracks during drying;

The abnormality of color is a change in wood color (brown, bluish stains), rot;

Saving is a fairly sharp decrease in the diameter of the barrel from the root of the tree to the top;

Curl - the local curvature of the annual layers due to the presence of bitch and the proper, reduces the strength of the wood;

Double core - the presence of 2 and more cores in one cross section of the tree trunk.

In addition, the wood in which insects (bugs-koroeda, house gravers, Usachi) were settled, is practically not suitable for work, since it is significantly destroyed as a result of their vital activity.

Basic techniques for working with wood

Over time, two absolutely different and at the same time close art appeared: carpentry and carpentry. Both of these crafts provide for the processing of such material like wood. Only the joiner makes various utensils, toys, decorations and furniture, and also engaged in the restoration of things. And the carpenter creates a wooden dwelling from large boards, bars and logs. His work is to put a log house, make floors, make floors, put the roof and install the windows. Finish at home is usually engaged in the joiner. In addition, the carpenter and the joiner use various tools during operation. For a carpenter, need heavier, intended for rough wood processing. At the same time, in the hands of the joiner almost you will not see the saw, chisel or ax.

To the most necessary tools that should be with you include a knife jamb, a hammer, an ax, akin, a wrench, a jigsaw, mites, a nail-cutter, a wooden tree and metal, and an electric drill. In addition, there will be different types of emery paper and the chisels of various types. Next, let's talk about wood processing. To do this, you will need to assimilate several techniques: dough, cutting, sawing, drilling, dragging, planing, grinding and cyclishing of wood. To fulfill each of them you will need certain tools and ownership of some knowledge. If you have never come across such work, at the first experiments you can do something. It is not necessary to upset at the same time: all the most famous and skillful masters have always started with Azov.

Drainage wood applies only when processing groats, plates and quarters. This treatment is consigned to the bark of the crust from the wood massif. The main tool that is used with such a work is an ax. All movements should be directed from the top to the base in the stem circle. In this case, the blade of the ax should not penetrate deep into the cortex layer so as not to damage the wood itself. In the course of work, along with the crust, the protruding knots should be chopped, thereby thoroughly preparing wood to subsequent processing.

Wood sawmills includes two types of activity at once. First, with the mechanical sawing of the ridge and the plates you can get boards of various quality. Secondly, with the help of this reception, you can make some details from the finished boards. We will not consider the first type of sawing, as it requires special equipment that is used only at woodworking enterprises. The second method of sawing can be performed on the workbench at home. Depending on how much the large array of wood is selected, you will need one or another saw. From how you secure on the desktop wood depends on the reception of the sawing. For example, if you secure the workpiece on the workshop horizontally, and the saw is perpendicular to the part itself, this reception is called horizontal. At the same time, the place of cut must be somewhat over the surface of the workbench so that you do not spoil the working board, and the work itself will then be much more convenient.

A feature of the transverse cut is that it passes not along the fibers, but across. At the same time, the risk of oops, both in the left, and in the divergent are increasing. Well, if the discovery occurred on a sipping piece, then you can simply be able to remove excess wood from the desired part. However, if the broken appeared exactly where you need to have a smooth and smooth surface, you will have to either restore the wood, or drink another part. A to avoid such a thin hacksaw with the "mouse tooth" will help you.

If you need to sprinkle a board or a bar at an angle of 45 or 90 °, and at hand there is already a saw box, you will need to put the board in the chute, press to the far on my side and smoothly, without moving the workpiece, unnecessary part.

During the sawing, first a few movements with a hacksaw on the already scheduled line, so you will strengthen the cloth in the workpiece array. If you need to work with the tree, you will only need to adjust the movements of the hacksaw if it can try to get around the bitch or difficult plot. Your efforts are only reduced to the observation of the uniform of penetration of teeth throughout the wood. Excessive physical efforts should not be in the right saw. You can completely flush on the saw, but not with all body, because only a small uniform pressure on the hacksaw during smooth movements will provide a smooth and correct propyl.

The board during this work is best located in such a way that the sinking piece is on the left side. Upon completion of the operation, the free left hand is easier to keep an unnecessary piece and will not let him fall on your foot. All movements when drinking the details do risosists, that is, completely rolled with cutting on cutting. When using electric saw, all operations are made in the same way as when working with manual hacksaw.

Wood planing lies in alignment of the surface of the material after sawing. Depending on the stages of planing, different types of Rubankov are used. Wood cooked to the operation to put on the desktop and the custody. Start with rough alignment, for which we use the ball. At the same time, all movements should be directed across the fibers, but not along them, because sometimes you can remove too much material. If, on the way of the shrinebele, there are bits and irregularities that impede processing, do not focus on them. Otherwise, in this place, wood can get off, and then the workpiece will become unsuitable for further use.

After treating the surface of small parts, the ball should be cleaned with a special single planer, and then double. If you work with long blanks, such as boards, it is better to use fugalok or semi-pugokanok. The promotion of the tool on the surface of the part should be directed along the fibers, and not across them. Only so you can make wood smooth and smooth.

When working with ends of boards and bars, make several movements with a planer from one edge to the center, and then from the other edge to the center it will help you avoid removing the tree on the ends of the off.

Wood drilling is used to do a variety of holes. They can be end-to-end and deaf, deep and shallow, wide and narrow. Before proceeding with this, it is necessary to choose the drill of the desired size, then the mark on the workpiece to the workpiece, fasten the drill in the cartridge and set it exactly to the designated place. If you need to make a deaf hole, as the drill is moving into an array of wood, we gradually loosen the pressure on the drill: so you will avoid the resulting material and the formation of the through hole.

Wood dragging is also known with deep antiquity. Before starting the operation, firmly attacked the bar and the workpiece in the vice. Then apply marking on the surface of the tree first with a simple solid pencil, and after that, make a line with a knife. If you need to make a very deep and wide hole, at the first stage, choose a material of the material, and then proceed to stripping the surface of the chisel. Also remember that, starting to work, you must first choose wood near the edges that are located across the direction of the fibers.

The deaf holes do as follows: Vbey the blade of the bit with the help of a Cyanka, and then slightly tilt it in the opposite side, with which the chamfer on the canvas is removed, and raise the facility up. After that, gently podlomi material and separated several pieces from the main array. Then retreat 2-3 mm from the well-done hole and repeat the same. When finishing the edges of the deepening, always retreat from it by 2 mm, and the chisel plane to it.

If you are lifting the cloth of the bit to the side where the chamfer was removed, while you can dive the wood with the unprocessed surface of the canvase.

When it is necessary to do through the hole, the sampling of wood produce on both sides at the same time, gradually reducing the intermediate layer, and the finished hole is cleaning at the edges of the straight, narrow chisel.

Cutting is always performed by the rocks or a knife-jam. Most often, the sample of wood is carried out by the chisels, which allow you to make accurate holes and deepening of different shapes and depths. Knife jamb can only to some extent replace the tool that is not.

When using that tool that is most suitable for performing this work, you will understand that the replacement should always remain only temporary. The faster you select it, the easier it will be faster work. The chisels can be used in the same way as the chisel, only the impact on the wood is made without a hammer.

The cutting of the wood material is performed as follows: put on the markup to the blade of the hothouse chisel inside the conceived recess. Then rejoin the chisel into the workpiece by 2-3 mm. After the first end, install the chisel after 2 mm in the direction of the alleged hole and turn the same incision. As a result, you will have a small excavation. Gradually moving in depth and exciting more and more wood for one reception, you will make the right hole.

In the middle of the recess, the incision can be made to a depth of about 5-6 mm, but near the edges - only 2-3 mm in order not to damage the parties.

In order to perform a pass-through hole, from the very edges of the manufacture of a break over the entire depth. If necessary, trimming can be made in several stages.

After sampling the material, be sure to deteriorate the bottom and side of the resulting recess to a narrow direct or semicircular chisel.

The cycloying of wood allows you to make the most purely and smoothly to clean the surface of the wood, where it is impossible to make a chisel or a ruble. At the same time, the process itself is more like a healing. The cycles movement are aimed at itself, and the knife itself is installed by the facet.

Grinding is also necessary for high-quality wood processing. After the end of work, you will only be left to align and clean the treated surface after the plane. For surface grinding, a sandpaper skin is used, which is an abrasive coating on a paper, or cardboard basis.

Depending on the magnitude of the grains and the type of abrasive, several types of skins are distinguished. On the inner surface of the roll, pay attention to the digital and alphabetic designation. Letters denote the types of abrasive used in the skirt, and the degree of its grinding. The smaller the number on the inside, the smaller the grains applied to the surface of the skins. If you notice the letter C, it means that the rotated glass is used here. Kb in this case denotes quartz, and CR - silicon. This is one of the most common abrasives. The coarse skin is used for coarse surface treatment, and for the final grinding it is better to take a fine-grained, which does not leave traces from the grains.

So that the fingers of the hands are not tired to hold it properly, take a comfortable bar and blame it with a skin. This bar will allow good to clean the surface without the formation of bugs and depressions. A smooth surface depends on the force of pressure on the bar. The stronger you will press it, the greater the likelihood of an uneven surface. It also has the way in which direction you will process the workpiece. If you move across the direction of the fibers, the strokes will remain more noticeable than when grinding in the direction of fibers or several scenarios.

Types of compounds and fasteners when working with wood

You probably know what to do something completely from the wood massif without one attachment and separation of the crafts on the details is very difficult. Now it is quite difficult to find a large one-piece wood massif. In addition, there is a risk that, a little error, you will spoil all the bar.

It is very easy to split the drawing to separate parts, and not drink each bend or the recess, constantly turning the entire product. In this case, all individual parts must correspond to sizes, and when the compound is a single whole. In addition, the accuracy and strength of the compounds are important factors of the strength of the product. All connections (both carpentry and carpentry) are called landings, since the basis is based on the method of embedding the parts with a spike to the part with a groove. Depending on how the parts in the mount are tightly contact, all plantings are divided into tense, dense, sliding, free and very free. The basis of all connections is a node, that is, the mounting place. Depending on which figure, the combined parts of the product resemble and how the node is located, the types of compounds are distinguished as side, end, angular, T-shaped and cross-shaped.

The side compound is also called "Rapidization". Very often it is used in the manufacture of doors, floors, shuttle or gate. This is a very solid connection. Large arrays, which are obtained as a result of its use, are additionally attached to transverse boards or shields.

If the parts of the product have the processed surface of the side edges and easily glued down when connecting, such a compound is called a smooth fugue. When there is a groove in each part on the side of the side, and the connecting rail is inserted into it, this type of connection is called the side on the plug-in rail. If a quarter and part are removed on the sides and are attached to their help, then this is a side connection to a quarter.

Another kind of this compound is called "lateral in the groove and the comb" and has several types depending on the quality of the ridge. This groove can be both triangular and rectangular. The first kind is most commonly used in the construction of parquet, and the second - when making a canvas for doors. Both of these designs suggest additional fastening with glue.

During the construction of external walls of the house or roof for better removal of rain and snow from the surface and greater protection of the coating from the destructive effects of the weather, the type of lateral compound is used, which is called the "lateral bridge". You need to connect parts of the product in this case: under the bottom plank to place a thin rail and clarify the top side of the part, then install the next bar, making it the bottom of it a small latter to a quarter of the strip thickness, and also fix it with several nails.

In addition, to connect several parts at once to one integer using only one, you can use the rallying with the tip. This species requires the same excavation from the side of the single part and from the end side of the parts connected. It is most often used when drawing up parquet.

As a decorative intake, the lateral connection with the overlapping is most often used, which not only decorates the surface, but also contributes to greater sound and thermal insulation. Such a compound is performed as follows: first through a gap equal to half the width of the plank, the 1st row is laid, and then the 2nd row is installed on top of it, which closes emptiness.

The end connection has another definition - "extension". It is characterized by the fact that all parts of the crafts are bonded between themselves in the end part: in this case the length of the whole part increases. Depending on the type of fastening, such end connections can carry significant loads during compression, stretching and bending. An ordinary whole board here is largely inferior to the product obtained by increasing.

Resisting compression The end connection of parts of the product can have a different design. His main feature is that each piece of wood has a lining and groove, which are very often made equal in thickness and length. You can make extension with a straight line in drapery and the end connection with the oblique overlay. If you doubt the strength of the future connections, you can additionally strengthen it with spikes or special joints. Of course, such a compound requires additional fastening with glue, nails or screws.

The end connection of the parts of the product that will resist stretching, the basis of its design contains a lining into the lock. The main thing - you need to spread the lining. Then make a groove on one detail, and on the other - the protrusion. It is this castle that will help both details avoid separation. Like a compression resisting compression, this type of connection may have a straight and oblique overlay. As an additional attachment, glue, nails or screws can be used here.

Introducing bending an end connection uses a lining with a oblique or step joint. A feature of the first type of compound is that the end sides of both parts are cut under an acute angle. With their discharge, you should respect the cutting angle with great accuracy. The second type of connection (stepped joint) is characterized by the fact that there are small grooves and tires on the end sides of the parts.

Both types of compounds should be accurately to have a straight surface of the lining. The lining with the oblique surface is used very rarely, although they are not inferior to the strength direct. For additional attachment you can also use glue, screws or nails.

Additional fastening of large bars used in construction can be metallic or wooden. A spikes are used as wooden mounts (both extended and plug-in). Metal fasteners can be in the form of a clamp or thick wire winding. Often it is also possible to observe the mounting bolts T-shaped compound named so because of its appearance. After fixing the parts of the product, the plug-in item seems to be out of the array of another. Most often, this type of compound is used when conjugating the joints of the floors and partitions with the construction of the building. The angle in which the details are fastened, must be 90 °. At all corners, the compound is performed fragile and very quickly comes to unsuitability.

Among the large number of varieties of the T-shaped connection, two types are used. With the first type, a secret thorny is observed, it has a trapezoidal shape and is inserted with one side of the beam. The second type for fastening applies a stepped straight overlay. In order to make it, you need to make the usual overlay first, choosing wood from one part half of the entire width, and the other part is one third. Then, from the first part, the wood was removed on the half of the lining still half, thereby the thickness of the unaffected part of the bar will be a quarter from the width of a whole bar. On the second part of the product, where the original wood is chosen only half a half, make a small hole in such a way that the whole wood makes half the entire thickness of the workpiece.

Such a stepped lining is considered the most durable. For additional attachment, glue is usually used here. Screws and nails can only damage the integrity of the product.

Cross-shaped connection is most often used for the construction of roofs and farms. It is very reminiscent of the T-shaped connection. Its varieties differ only in the depth of the fastening lining: from 30 to 50% of the thickness of the bar.

The angular connection is most often used in the mounting of door or window blocks and greenhouse frames. This compound is different from other fact that the rolled parts are located relative to each other at an angle of 90 °. Depending on the use of fasteners, all angular compounds are divided into compounds on spike and compounds on the USS.

Corner mounts on the spike usually have several varieties. The through connection to the spike can use 1-3 spikes (or more) in its design. You should also know that the strength of the design increases with a large number of spikes. A non-separation connection is different from the first the fact that the thorny mount is made in the middle of the parts and externally it is imperceptible. For this, inside the bars, do small recesses under the spikes that will be slightly deeper than the spikes themselves so that there is a place for glue.

The angular fastenings on the mustache are expressed in the ways of parts of the product, interconnecting, cut off at an angle of 45 °. Just like compounds on the thorns, attachment on the Us can be end-to-end, in which weakness, and non-separation, when the connection itself is fixed inside parts. The through mounting on the USS can be fixed both 1 and immediately 3 spikes. The attachment method in this case remains the same as with a corner nozzle on the thorn.

With a non-off-mounted attachment on the mustache, the spike location is impossible. Here, equally can be used both round spikes, and flat, but the mount from this will not be weaker in any way. However, when sampling the material under the spikes, you must make the socket slightly more than the spikes themselves so that the blanks are easily connected to each other.

Out of wood

Since a long time, we reached us samples of the accurate products from the tree. Quite often in the excavations, scientists find all sorts of homemade utensils:

mugs, cups, bowls, plates, trays, plates and solonki. All of the above products are intended for food and beverages. Already in those distant times, the vintage masters worked on primitive lathes, the principle of operation of which is used in a variety of modern woodworking installations.

The old wooden dishes found during archaeological excavations differed in particular strength. The secret of this is that the masters of the past were filtered by utensils not in the direction of growth of the fibers, but across them. It helped not only to store things for a long time, but also the most widely demonstrate the entire texture drawing, as well as decorate the product without the use of thread and mosaic. Old art was not forgotten today. Modern lathes allow you to perform products much faster and better. But first it is necessary to choose the appropriate material for the future product. Only well-dried bar is suitable for work, otherwise your handicaping after pulling it over time, and during grinding you will not be able to completely get rid of the vault and burrs.

At first, you will need a lathe itself, without which there can be no speech about artistic pulling (Fig. 15).

Fig. 15. Turning machine for working with wood

If you wish to make a product of a large length, you should prefer a lathe with a backstone, which fixes the bar on both sides. In the event that you plan to make a small product, you will need a machine with tubular cartridge. It is he who will make the cavity in Bruke. If you want to pull something out of wood, you will need to find a piece of wood, corresponding to the size of the future craft. In addition, depending on what exactly you had to do, you need to pick a bar with the appropriate texture.

For the manufacture of homemade utensils, bars from linden, aspen, oak and birch are most suitable. For decorations, the bark is suitable juniper, walnut, red wood, pine or cedar, which have an excellent texture pattern that does not require any special decoration. Large germers are pulled out on the table cheeper - a special device in the form of a metal circle with clips or holes for screws that the workpiece is attached to the disk.

The wood sampling procedure should be plane and semicircular cutters. If you don't have them, for this you can use the usual narrow and wide chisels with one-sided faster. Semicircular chisels are used for rough wood removal from the bar, and direct will be needed for the final surface treatment of the product.

To make the cavity in Bruke, you will need two special tools - hook and ring. You can give preference to some one tool, but if there is something else in your cabinet, it will greatly facilitate the task.

First of all, on a sheet of paper in a natural value, draw what you want to get at the end of work. Then proceed to the preparation of the bar. To begin processing the hatch, a piece of wood, give it a more or less proper cylindrical shape from one end to insert it into the cartridge. Then after the start of rotation of the cylinder, several movements of the chisel will take off part of the wood, making the right cylinder.

After pretreatment, you can already begin to the outtage itself. If your future product should be inside the cavity, first choose wood from the bar. Then neat movements take off the thin chips, and then - as the cavity is evaporated - do it more and deeper. After the shell is selected from the cavity, apply the size of the future product to the workpiece, for this it is more convenient to use the caliper.

On the workpiece, only light touches are on the workpiece, and then the cutter or the blade of the chisels make the contours of the pattern more visible. At the same time, do not strongly push the cutter on the workpiece and do not lead along the wood with all the blade, but only slightly touching the tip of the rotating bar of the rotating bar, making distinct and shallow cutting. Then a flat widespread or narrow chisel (depending on the distance between risks), a thin chip was removed with an excess wood from the main part, and then proceed to the recession of individual parts.

Rotating Dwarf Coloring with a fine-grained skin and polish with horse hair, dried horsetail or wood sawdust. Not stopping the rotation, the product can be covered with a thin layer of varnish or wax mastic. Only after that the resulting product from the remaining piece of wood. Pretty in demand among wooden products are household items - dishes, plates, mugs, glasses and jugs (Fig. 16-18). For the manufacture of accurate plates most often used old pine bars, whose wood has already acquired a bright golden color with clear brown veins.

Fig. 16. Dish

The use of such billets makes artistic coating unnecessary. In addition, in the future, the dishes will not lose its form, and the natural figure will appear even more. First, apply to the workpiece with light lines of the outlines of the future product, and then crook the wood on the table cheeper.

Fig. 17. Cup

After that, from the rotating disc choose inside the wood in this way, making a small deepening. Then a thin chips take off the blanks of excess wood, giving the product the right outline. On the wash station and polish it from all sides, after which it can be covered with varnish or wax mastic (Fig. 19). Without resorting to the use of dyes, you can create a unique picture by connecting small wood blanks. To do this, you drank bars from one array and spool them with the help of PVA glue. The fibers of each individual billet should go across other bars. All this will ensure the strength of the future thing and create an interesting texture pattern. For a small shallow leg, wood pieces can be glued together with each other, laying them in one line. For a deep jug or vase, square blanks leave on top of each other in the form of a small pyramid. In the manufacture of a wooden mug, it is best to glue the workpiece from the Kliniev sectors.

Fig. 18. Plate

Fig. 19. Vase from wood

With the help of a lathe, you will be able to create not only household utensils, but also a variety of toys for younger brother or sister. Having mastered the calculation of simple geometric shapes, you can combine the figures of people, animals, toy cars and household items for dolls (Fig. 20) from them.

First of all, you need to decide what exactly you want to do, and then put our idea on paper. If the future toy should get a little, choose a convenient scale for the drawing, but it's best if you also make a drawing of a natural value, because then when pulling it, it will be convenient to carry out the size of paper on a tree.

One-piece toys, that is, fully made from one wood massif, are quite rare. Basically, you can see glued toys collected from individual parts and connected with PVA glue.

Fig. 20. Toys, painted from wood

In the case when the glued surface of the parts is large enough, you will not need additional connections. If the surface of gluing is less than the height of the part, in the connected parts it will be necessary to make small cuts, lubricate them with glue and put small protruding chips in them or specially made wands. This type of fastening is called "connection on the thorn". After the toy is completely finished, you can cover it with a layer of wood varnish, emphasizing the natural color of the tree.

You can also place the resulting product in the drive, thus making an emphasis on the beauty of natural pattern. After the surface of the product is well polished and cleaned, apply primer to it, so that the paint does not grow up in the future. As a primer, you can use starchy holter.

If you will use oil paints for coloring, the whole surface of the product must be covered with 3 layers of joinery glue, and if it is not at hand, prepare your primer. To do this, on 5 parts of the usual dental powder, take 1 part of the animal gelatin, mix thoroughly and intersect with warm water to the contestation of the coarse sour cream. I get ready for the surface with a thin layer, let her dry, and then processes the product in the same way 2 more times.

After the primer will dry well, you can decorate your product. The paint is best to apply a special thin brush, which can easily designate a thin contour, and with a light nagged - a line of different thickness. If you use aniline paints for painting, give preference to light-resistant.

For the painting itself, you will have several intense colors: bright red, bright yellow and bright purple. Among the so-called acid aniline paints, choose a red, green, purple and bright blue. Usually, paints are sold in the form of colored powders, which are divided only in hot water, and no more than 10 g of powder is taken on 1 liter of water.

When painting, aniline paints should comply with a number of rules. First, it is impossible to carry out a brush one by the same place twice. Secondly, the aqueous solutions and powders are very poisonous, and the traces of them cannot be laundered for a long time, so you need to be very careful when applied. And if the paint fell on the skin, very quickly removed it, flushing with running water.

So, apply a layer of yellow paint on that surface toy, where, according to your plans, there must be red or green colors. In order to turn out to be bright red, on top of yellow gently apply a layer of scarlet paint. To get bright green color - a layer of blue paint.

After the painting, allow the paint to dry well (about 8 hours), then cover the layer of varnish and leave for 24 hours. After that, apply the second layer of varnish and leave again to dry on the day. If you used gouache for painting, after it is drying it is necessary to cover the product with 2-3 thin layers of transparent wood varnish.

If you want to cover the toy by tempera, after drying the paint, you will not need to apply a few more layers of varnish, because it firmly holds on the tree. Quite often, the painting on the tree is used in combination with the burning of the contours of the ornament. For this, any paints are suitable: gouache, temperature or oil. If you need to draw a doll with bright clothes with a small pattern, bring the blades of the blade blades or a narrow rock with a slim thread, and then cut it with a thin layer of paint. The slots can also be painted with another color or leave a single color, the ornament will still be visible.

Previously, decorations made of wood were very valued in Russia. You can also try to make something similar (for example, for your sister). It is best to start from the bracelet (Fig. 21). The technology of its pulling is no different from the manufacture of homemade utensils or toys. You only need to choose all the wood from the inside, and to make an oval outside. The inner diameter of the bracelet or ring should be equal to the diameter of the wrist or finger. The diameter of the bracelet should be no less than the diameter of the brush so that it can easily wear on the arm.

Fig. 21. Bracelet, painted from wood

Outping a ring or bracelet, do not rush to cut the decoration with blank, because it can be given a wonderful shade with friction. To do this, take a small tree bar of a solid rock and apply to a rotating decoration with a narrow side. From contact with the BRO district, the wood of wood will become dark and charring. The longer you will rub the wood. The more pronounced natural color will acquire the surface of the decoration. In order for the bodies of the woods purchased a brown color, make a piece of Surguche to the wood.

The same result can be achieved in other way. Already a cropped product to lower for a few minutes into a solution of copper sulfate, and then soldering lamp burning upper layer of decoration. So you make a natural tree drawing brighter. After that, the surface with a cloth cloth and cut 2 thin layers of varnish.

Furniture and other wood objects

Production of simple woods made of wood for beginners

Wood has excellent properties and is very convenient for processing. This is one of the most durable and lightweight materials, which, besides, remains warm for a long time. Specially animated or raw wood perfectly takes the form you want to give her. It can be cut out of it and hollow out a variety of household utensils, such as spoons, scoops, glasses, mugs, forks and cutting boards.

It would seem, make a small dish from a tree, a scoop or an ordinary tablespoon is very simple. It is known that our ancestors did very beautiful things for the house for many centuries. With the development of progress in industry at the beginning of the last century, almost all the wooden utensils turned out first metallic, and then plastic, which is considered cheaper and hygienic. But in recent years, people are increasingly wishing to have things in their home made from environmental materials. In the course of research, scientists found out that there are fewer bacteria and pathogens of various diseases on wooden dishes. In addition, products are better to cut on a wooden board than on plastic, and the dish cooked from them will be much tastier and more useful.

Start work with a tree is best with the manufacture of things of simple, but at the same time such that will come in handy in everyday life. For the manufacture of various products, you will need certain materials. For example, to make a cutting board, a piece of thick plywood will be required, and for a wooden scoop or a rig, it is better to choose a block of soft wood or a slice from the trunk. For the manufacture of a tray, a piece of a small log will be required. Thick bars will need in the manufacture of spoons, forks and other kitchen utensils. From the tools, a file will be needed, drill, jigsaw, knife jamb, semicircular chisels, cerazik (thin semicircular chisel) and bezperzes (semicircular and curved stoves in the shape of a scoop).

For the manufacture of wooden products, too much skill is not required, the main thing is to show the effort and patience. You also need a little imagination and perseverance, and then in your house there will be a variety of things made by your hands. It is believed that wood does not apply to complex building materials, but some errors when working with it still should not be allowed, since it is no longer possible to put several centimeters of an incorrectly scaled board or align the spoiled workpiece without prejudice to the future product. When working with wood, you can distort and emphasize its natural drawing. In the latter case, the resulting product will look much better from this.

To make you make a wooden cutting board with your own hands, there will be no big experience (Fig. 22). Just pick up the prepared board or a piece of thick plywood, check the borders of the future product and drank extra parts. If you wish, you can make a handle, posting first a rectangle or a rectangular trapezoid for the base, and then a small protrusion for the handle. After that, drilled a drill hole for the carnation so that the finished cutting board could hang and quickly dry after washing. The file has a little rounded the edges and carefully treat the entire surface of the workpiece by sandpaper, so that there is not a single burr. One side of the board will be a worker, and on the other you can post a mosaic or cut (burn) a beautiful pattern.

Fig. 22. Cutting board

For the manufacture of a wooden plate (Fig. 23) you will need a large-size timber.

First make marking for the future product. Divided the surface of the bar into 4 equal parts, reading 2 median lines, after which they smashed the entire surface to 3 rectangles. Negotiated rectangle and will be the plate itself, and the handles will be cut off from 2 extreme, equal. Then, focusing on the center, draw external and internal ellipses. Then from the external contour of drawing the handles of a plane, which should not be too small and too large, so as not to spoil the appearance of the product.

Fig. 23. Wooden plate

The resulting harvesting on the desktop clamps. Then the large round and semicircular chisels choose wood from an internal ellipse from the edge, gradually moving to the center. After a small deepening is outlined over the entire surface of the internal ellipse, you can use the Cupperazy chisels for convenience. Reduce the sample time can be due to the wide drill holes over the center and around it.

Cover the walls of the loop of the plate is more convenient with a narrow semicircular chisel, which will swing the irregularities remaining after thick chisels and the priperase.

After that, you have to remove all unnecessary wood from the workpiece. To do this, it is better to use a jigsaw. So you can make lines smooth and not remove too much. Then the handmade hacksaw diluted under the handles of the woods, after which Karcarumba completes the draft handles. On the plate attached on the table, the direct narrow chisel processing all the bulges and ribs that remain from the draft. After that, it is vertically onto the product with clamps between 2 wooden bars and sewing the outer surface of the plane. Then hand colors and the inner surface. Her handles and the outer side you can decorate the carvings.

In addition, you yourself can make a wooden scoop. At home, it can come in handy in working with various bulk products, such as cereal, flour, sugar or pasta. The scoop is made somewhat more complicated. For its manufacture you will need a small block of soft plastic wood. Well, if there are no bitch on it. The dimensions of the bar must correspond to the size of the finished product, and its thickness will determine the depth of the product.

Then you will need on a sheet of paper make a drawing of the future scoop in full size. In the drawing, you have two types: on the side and on top, then transfer them to the blank plane. Try to do it in such a way that the main part of the work went to the direction of growth of the fibers, and not against. For this on the wood, do two excavations in the wood-cerasik. If the recess and chips are obtained smooth and smooth, it means that you made a deepening in the direction of growth of fibers. Then, through the copy paper, move the drawing to the surface of the workpiece and circle it again with a solid pencil.

At the place of the largest deepening, where the sample will be made, make a few large holes to facilitate work. Take a thick drill or drill with thickening at the end and carefully drilled part of the wood. After that, the pubsie drank unnecessary pieces. Then, on the workbench, the harvesting clamps, but not very tight, so that there are no traces from them on the wood. Knife-shock or a thick straight point choose wood between the holes. In order not to make a deepening near the edge of the future scoop more than in the middle, fastening the clamps near the edge of the workpiece additional bar.

After that, a semicircular chisel thoroughly choose wood from the deepening. Also, for this procedure, you will need Copperazy chisels, with which you can clean the excess material from the bottom of the recess and walls. Minor unevenness and jar on the surface of the recess is well aligned with a direct narrow chisel.

After the work is completed on the bottom of the scoop, go to the surface of the walls, the thickness of which, if possible, should be the same. The upper part of them should also be smooth. To do this, the surplus of wood was removed by a direct point, which should only go in the direction of the growth of the fibers, and not against. Otherwise, you do not align the edges as they spoil them.

Unscrew clamps and a large round chisel to cut unnecessary wood thin chips. Then flipping the bar, fixes on the workbench clamps and direct chisel to gently choose wood for the handle of the scoop. Then, with the help of the same chisel, choose the base of the deepening of the lodge of the scoop, constantly checking the thickness of its wall.

Having finished the processing of the inside of the lodge of the Lodge, put it on the desktop and the direct chisel deleted excess wood from the outside of the scoop. Soon about a quarter of the length of the lodge of the lion from the edge and make a small cone-shaped cut on this part.

After that, proceed to cutting the handle scoop. Squeezing him on the workbench and clock clamps. Near the knob of fixing with the clamps another bar and carefully a chisel with an excess wood after which the edges of the handle and gripped the surface of a fine-grained sandpaper ran a knife.

Compared to the plate, the saucer is made even easier (Fig. 24). You need to choose a wooden board of the desired size and draw two circles on it. The outer circle will correspond to the size of the future product, and the inner circle is the size of the bottom. Depending on the thickness of the workpiece, you can make a deep or small saucer. After completing the work, decoke the edges of the crafts with a thread or a scorched pattern.

Fig. 24. Swuffling

On the principle of making a plate, you can make trough. The differences are in the size and shape of the handles. For normal trough you will need half a large log, from which it will be manufactured. Handles are made much easier, you just need to choose wood from the inside and not drink curly handles, like a plate. The finished product you can decorate the carving or inserts from the metal (or other wood) on the handles or on the outer surface of the crafts.

In the old days, there were no metal spoons or forks. These products people were made of wood. You can also make a wooden spoon with your own hands (Fig. 25). Depending on the selected billet, you can make both a large spoon and a small tea. However, this you need to find a thicker bar, because the bed of the spoon will have a deepening. It is best to choose wood with a bed and contemporary a little deepening. Then take off the unnecessary wood from the workpiece, where the handle will be, after which the blocking of the bar and remove the material from the entire workpiece. Similarly, you will make a preliminary sample. Then the straight and semicircular narrow rocks align the surface and depress the fine-grained skurt. Pen spoon for giving her beauty you can decorate carvings.

Fig. 25. Wooden spoon

If on the one hand you will make a small nose on one side, and the product itself will have large sizes, you will succeed in not just a spoon, and a halter, which will be convenient to pour, for example, soup.

The plug can be made of the same tree bar as a spoon. It is done on the principle of the blade for stirring. The feature of the plug is that in the box you need to do another one or 3, depending on what as a result you wish to get a large fork for fish or a regular dining room. The edges of the propuls are neatly treating a fine-grained skin, and the edges of the teeth are a little shard by a knife and also beware of the skin. After depressing the entire surface of the plug, on the knob of which you can also perform threads.

The blade is usually used for mixing dishes. To make it, you will need a long bar. On the surface of the tree, to mark the contours of the blade. To keep in mind that her handle should expand a little by the end. The bed is as follows: it is expanding near the handle and has a small slope, which gradually goes into a wide plane. Choose unnecessary wood with a straight wide chisel and escap the surface with a narrow chisel. After grinding the finished product, decorating the handle of the blades thread.

In order to make a glass or a mug (Fig. 26), you will need wood bar with a vertical arrangement of the direction of growth of fibers. On the top side of it to draw 2 circles, which will denote the external and inside of the future glass.

Fig. 26. Wooden glass

If you wish to make a mug, then on the workpiece you will need to leave a place for the handle. If this bar does not allow it to do, draw it on a tree-like texture. In the harvesting of the glass itself, take a few holes of the drill, and then gently choose wood with a narrow semicircular chisel, after which the inner surface of the fine-grained skin processing. You can get the same hole with a lathe.

After you neatly separated the inner surface of the glass, proceed to the processing of the outside. For this, a wide semicircular chisel will take off all extra wood, and then give the shape of a thin chisel, after which you can sand the surface and apply some drawing. So you will get a simple wooden glass. To the finished gland of the punch piled from another bar. If you make a mug completely from a solid piece of wood, after the first sample you need to remove unnecessary wood and give the shape of the handle itself. To do this, it is convenient to use the jigsaw, which exactly and without jar will disconse extra pieces. Then depth the surface and decoken it.

Objects of furniture

Even experienced masters began their activities from the manufacture of simple items made of wood. So you can first do, for example, furniture for dolls of your sisters. She will surely be very glad, and you will develop your skills to work with the tree. In the future, you can independently manufacture and real furniture, such as shelves, chair, table or locker. Start with simple and gradually go to the complex.

It is worth starting with the shelves, which even with all the simplicity of the design is always needed in the house and can replace all attachments. They can be both open, without a lid, and closed, that is, to form a small mounted locker.

In order to make an open shelf (Fig. 27), you will need a durable and thick board, which can also be replaced with a chipboard, and 1 plank from a wooden rail, equal to the length of the shelf. In addition, you will need to pick up 2 pieces of veneer for saving all surfaces and 2 metal corners so that you can hang the finished shelf on the wall. You will also need 2 volumetric cuts of the board, which in width should be equal to the width of the product itself, which will allow it to be firmly hanging on the wall and withstand even significant severity.

First of all, you should make the base of the shelf. To do this, take the board you need length and widths. First, we define the side that will be addressed to you. It is on it after preparation on both sides of the veneer it will be necessary to secure the rail to close the ugly inside of the base. Veneer also creates the impression that only solid wood was used in the manufacture.

Then, from segments of a tree, make fasteners that may have different shapes. It all completely depends on your fantasy, as well as from taste and creative approach to business. Recall once again that the width of these parts in the connection site with the shelf will be equal to the width of the product itself, because they are attached to the end sides of the board or woodcrews. They drank the contours of the fastening legs of the product, carefully sew them and connect with the base of the shelf. Using screws, you will get a more durable and reliable connection than when using ordinary nails. All this is primarily due to the structure of the tree itself, which poorly holds the leg of the nail inside itself.

Fig. 27. Open shelf

To the top of the resulting elements of the shelf clapping the corners so that the product can be hung. After completing all the work, once again thoroughly walk through all the surfaces of the skins and cut them with lacquer.

Such a regiment can be used in the house anywhere: in their room, in the kitchen or loggia. If you set several such shelves over each other, and to screw a few hooks to the bottom shelf, you can get a comfortable hanger for kitchen towels, tapes and cutting boards. In addition, ceramic mugs and cups are well stored in such a position, in addition, in this case, more exempted place on the shelf.

Restrained on an open shelf, you can make a cabinet shelf (Fig. 28). This is also a very necessary thing in the house. Here, a closed shelf, boxes and a locker are connected to one whole. Only at first it may seem that this product is made very difficult. But if you look carefully in everything, it turns out that it is quite possible.

Fig. 28. Shelf-locker

To begin with, make a drawing on which with great accuracy (up to the millimeter), calculate all sizes. In order to correctly place in the complex of one whole elements (i.e., the shelf, a wardrobe and a box), stripped the entire structure along the length of 6 parts: 2 of them will take the shelf, 3 refer to the locker, and the latter - for the boxes. If you want, you can change the ratio of parts by placing everything to your liking.

After the drawing is ready, you need to choose wood from which the cabinet shelf will be made. To do this, in the same extent, you can use a fibrous plate and durable wooden boards. If you decide to use chipboard to work, then you will still need to find a veneer for the product. To install the cabinet door, piano loops are needed, and in order to open the doors or a box, you still need handles.

After that, you can proceed to work itself. At the first stage, prepare the grooves and jacks of fastening on the sides of each part of the product and the winds surface with veneer parts. Then leave the wood until the glue is completely drying, so that it turned out to be imitation to good species of the tree. In order for the surface not to be covered with bubbles, or did not spare from the chipboard at all, it will have to wait approximately 24 hours or a little more: it all depends on the glue that you will apply when working. Then connect the foundations of the base of the cabinet shelf, which includes the rear wall, 2 side and bottom, and leave the design to the complete drying of the glue.

Then, at a distance of one sixth from the bottom of the resulting design, set the bottom of the product, extinguishing the level of the location of the boxes and the cabinet itself. At the same time, you can install the upper border of the locker, the bar itself the shelf itself and the lid. For a complete consolidation, the design will also have to wait 1 day.

While glue solidifies, you can make boxes that consist of the bottom, 2 side, rear and front walls. You need to combine the front wall especially carefully and carefully, because it will always be in sight.

Do not forget before starting work to drill holes in it for fastening the handles. Make it after connecting the parts will be much more difficult, and the probability of openings of the veneer fibers on the front side will increase significantly. To avoid such troubles, first do the hole, then shoot a veneer and, after the glue starts to push (but until it hardened it completely), produce a small nozzle in the form of a cross. Wood veneer under the influence of glue is somewhat soften, and then you can gently cut it out.

After the boxes are ready, make the cabinet doors. They must consist of a door frame and a plank. However, instead of skimming, you can take an ordinary matte or colored glass. You can decorate a plank or glass in different ways. Very nice on the background of a dark veneer looks like a pattern of copper or brass wire, which is glued to the surface with an epoxy or polyester resin.

Carefully bewearing wire via the template, treat it with a special diluent, which can be replaced by the usual medical or technical alcohol. Then the thin layer of resin cut the wire and take it on the surface. When the surface is ready, and the wire is good to stick, you can install piano loops and handles on the doors. After that, you will need to attach the doors to the base of the locker and plug the boxes. Consider that the shelf-wardrobe is almost ready. In conclusion, carefully departed with a fine-grained sandwich surface and cutting a thin layer of varnish.

Make a stool is somewhat more complicated than making the shelf. It consists of a seat, two front legs equal to height level of the seat, 2 rear legs, which determine the height of the chair, 3 leaders (2 side and 1 front), three CARG (2 side and 1 rear) and the back, which may consist of 1-2 details (the top plate of the back will be referred to as the top, and the middle is the middle manual) (Fig. 29).

Fig. 29. Chair

The height of the seat itself mainly does not exceed 45 cm from the floor level, and the height of the entire product depends only on your desire. First you should choose a stool material. Most often, all the main details of the chair are made entirely of wooden boards or bars. But sometimes the chipboard is chosen for the seats, the foam rubber or several layers of batting are then placed on it, and then they are squeezed with a cloth or any other material.

When the accurate drawing is made, you can proceed directly to work. At first they drank from 2 large bars the rear legs of the chair. From the boards smaller do the front legs. In addition, it will be necessary to cut down 3 steps and 3 kings so that the legs of the chair do not ride. After that, collect the sidewall of the chair, which consists of the back and the front legs, the tsargi and the steps. All these parts are connected to a spike with glue. In the meantime, it is seized, make a chair chair, which should have a smooth surface.

After the sidewalls are completely glued, you can start the final stage of the stool assembly. You will need to install the front footboard, seat, rear kingu and parts of the back. Firmly hitting the prepared fasteners, leave the product to completely dry the glue. After that, you should polish it and cover with paint or transparent joinery.

Now you figured out the main compounds and design of furniture. Everything else is built on this database. So, I can easily open the shelf and the cabinet shelf, you can master the manufacture of other furniture items, such as bedside tables, a small locker or rack. And the design option, for example, the tables you can choose depending on your taste, desires and places, as well as from where you plan to put a finished product. This principle concerns both chairs, and chairs that can be made on the basis of a simple stool.

However, sometimes you should not invent anything. The most ordinary chair will look much more attractive if you decorate his legs and a decorative thread back. The ordinary home table will be wonderful, if on its surface, put a mosaic of veneer pieces or perform inlaid with metal wire or pieces of colored glass.

All tables, from a miniature journal to the usual dining, are made according to one principle and consist of the same parts: table tops, legs and fasteners, which are fixed between the remaining structural elements (Fig. 30).

Before starting work, make a standard drawing on which all sizes. If you want to make a coffee table, its height should be about 50-60 cm, and the height of the table under the computer will be 65-70 cm. The desktop of the desktop must be at 80 cm, and the dining table is 10 cm above. The width and length of the countertops can be arbitrary.

Fig. 30. Table

In accordance with the sizes of the future product select the material. You can use chipboard for the table top, and it is better to take wooden bars for fasteners and legs.

First you need to make a countertop. To do this, drank the slab of the necessary sizes and attractions the top surface with a veneer.

So that in the future the edges of the latter did not exfoliate, you can nice a special rail at the edges of the table top. In addition to the fact that it will prevent the edges, this rail will significantly decorate all the product.

As soon as the tabletop is ready, and the glue will dry up, you can start installing bars to which the legs will be attached. For the tables of minor sizes, separate square pieces of wood are most often used, which are from the inside or in the corners. For large tables, such a design is not very suitable, because it is rarely able to withstand significant loads. Therefore, the bars are installed around the entire perimeter of the countertops. The legs of the product in this embodiment are attached to the bars by connecting to the spike.

If you make a small table, and for the connection of the legs with a tabletop you installed individual bars on its inside, in this case the connection goes a little differently. Each leg in this case has a spike that is inserted into the socket made on the bar. For the strength of the combination of the table top inner upwards. Then weakly lubricate the nest and the spike itself, connect and leave the design for 24 hours until complete drying. The finished table will need to be pulled out a fine-grained skin and coat with several layers of joinery lacquer.

Stairs

Very often, at the cottage or in a country house, it is necessary to regularly update the interior. Then you need to update the staircase, then adjust the arbor. Having learned to work with a tree, you can help your father or elder brother to produce carpentry. For the future, this is a very valuable experience. Some interior items you can make it yourself, having certain skills to work with the tree.

Thus, in the country between spans, you can put both a screw and straight staircase (Fig. 31). By the way, in the latter case, it can be single-hour and two-day. The difference between them is as follows: the first is located between 2 floors and has only 1 direction of steps, and the latter, also connecting 2 floors, has an intermediate platform.

Depending on what area you take to build a staircase, and where it will be located, you will need to choose one or another of its type.

Fig. 31. Staircase

But first of all you need to choose a staircase for yourself, that is, it should be comfortable and safe. Provide the latter during the descent or lift you will help with a strong railing.

In order for your future staircase to be strong and served considerable time, it is best to use well-dried wood hardwood or coniferous rocks, such as oak, larch or pine.

Connect the details of the stairs are best with the help of screws that do not weaken over time and firmly hold the design elements. Conventional construction nails first fasten the parts quite tightly, but over time the connection is beginning to break out, and then the staircase has to be repaired, driven into an array of additional nails.

Now about the project of the ladder itself. Any staircase includes two supporting instruments, called the baseboards or strings to which steps and railing are attached. For the instrument, one-piece widths up to 30 cm wide and 6-6.5 cm thick are chosen. The boards length is selected in accordance with the march length. For the steps themselves, the planks are 30-35 cm long, so that the leg is completely placed on the steps, and the 5 cm thick so that it can withstand the weight of 1 person.

The height of the step depends on the angle of the lands on the floor of the lower floor. The greater the angle of inclination, the higher the steps relative to each other are located. For example, if the angle of inclination is about 33-37 °, the height of the step must be about 16 cm. If the staircase is located at an angle of 38-42 °, the distance between the steps should be about 18 cm. If the angle of inclination ranges in the range of 45 °, then The height of the stages should be 20 cm. However, even using these calculations, you must try it all. Sometimes the steps have to do higher or lower than the standard, since the staircase must be convenient for all family members.

To begin with, it is better to simply make a straight staircase that can rely on the wall. A more difficult to fulfill is a two-post staircase, which is done only with the support on the right wall. This direction mainly depends on your wishes. If you decide to make a curvilinear staircase (what should be done only with certain experience), do not forget that the width of the step is even in a narrow place should not be less than 12 cm.

Starting the construction of the stairs, first of all setting the taper, attaching them to the surface of the floor with nails or screws, and at the top - to the beams of overlapping, after performing a cross-shaped mount. The distance between them should be 75-90 cm to be able to freely walk along the stairs.

After the theettes are installed, each of them should be divided into steps, taking into account the amplitude of the step and the thickness of the planks. In any stairs, the number of steps must be odd. Then at this level it is necessary to arrange grooves for fastening steps, equal to the thickness of the planks. For additional mounting of the planks, which are also called coming, accommodates are set between them. So that they keep well and did not fall out from under excess, you can use a quarter or inserting spike.

It is best to put the steps from the bottom up to take into account the step height and check the stability of the attachment. The railing that is installed on the tutor will decorate the staircase, and will also make it safer. The handrails should be located at an altitude of 80-85 cm on the level of the rust.

You can also install the handrails for the height you need. It can be calculated in this way: going down the stairs, a little extinguishing the relaxed hand forward: at this level and the reservoir bar. After that, climb up the stairs, holding it. The hand should be relaxed and somewhat bent in the elbow.

If you are comfortable to move in both directions, it means that the location level of the handrail is chosen correctly.

Toy from wood

Make the toy from the tree is easy, especially if you already have some skills. To do this, you will need the same set of tools as for the manufacture of furniture, as well as standard wood blanks.

Your toy aircraft (Fig. 32) will consist of the following parts: upper wing (5 x 24 x 1.5 cm), the lower wing (5x15x1 cm), the fuselage (5 x 30 x 1.5 cm) and the steering wheel. The corresponding sizes should be the boards, so pre-select suitable blanks for this work.

Fig. 32. Airplane

First, run the sketch of the future product. Clearly draw the main parts of the aircraft and its general view. It is best if the figure will match the size with the estimated product. Then think the sequence of making toys and the connections of its parts. Example the main details and collect them without nails. Actually, a wooden plane is a simple product, so all the main details will surely prepare enough.

In order to make tail wings, take the board, die from half and spend a line for dipping, that is, make accurate marking. Then they dug the part and inspire cut. After that, you can begin bonding the parts of the aircraft with nails. First of all, the upper and lower front fenders are based on the base, and then the tail curves with the base. To note in advance the places where you will score nails on the wings, and it is easy to keep the bottom and top wings on the same level on the basis. Best of all, if they are nailed for a third-length length from the nose of the aircraft.

Then you will need to nail the steering wheel. Take it nails without hats. Carefully connect the top with tail wings. Vbey Nail without a hat Up to half in the middle of the tailings and Nasadi Detail of the steering wheel on the second half of the nail, which can be seen above the aircraft housing. After that, in a pre-marked hole of the Vbey nail. However, it is possible to fix the steering wheel and in a different way: to turn the tail wings, put on the upper part and neatly nails to nail at an angle. It is better to score 2 nails in the middle of the wings.

Roule with tail wings for the base and pribe. After the main details of the toys are fastened, you can add a propeller, wheels, etc. Pickup the product to your liking. For example, you can draw on the wings of the star or something else, as well as to cover the toy with a joiner varnish.

Television

Make a teddy ted with wood (Fig. 33) is also easy. For this, you will need the following details: The body of the product is a rectangular bar in size of 20 x 16 x 10 cm, the TV screen is a board with a size of 15 x 10 x 1 cm, the slats for the legs with a size of 35 x 1 x 1 cm.

As when working on the aircraft, first make a drawing. All future parts of the toy clearly designate on a sheet of paper. Separately draw a general view of the TV. Determine the sequence of work and select the desired material. The capture so that all wooden bars are without cracks, burrs and other defects.

To choose a suitable bar or drank it from a larger in size. Then they saw the screen from the board of the desired size, closing it in vice, and the edges of the edge. The legs must have the same length, so the desired distance will definitely die on the rail. It should be equal to the width of the toy hull.

Fig. 33. TV

If all the details are ready, proceed to the assembly of the TV. First, hammer the nails in the screen, and then a closer to the body. After that, carefully hammer the nails in the legs and cover them to the TV. When the product is ready, you can paint it and draw buttons on it. In addition, you can also attach an antenna: a piece of wire or a thin metal rod is suitable for this.

Sailboat

Ships and sailboats from wood People were made from a long time. They were the favorite toys of children. Wooden sailboat can be allowed to "swim" in the reservoir. Restrained on one ship (Fig. 34), if you wish, you can make a whole flotilla of sailboats.

You will need the following details: a 10x25x1.5 cm sailboat (it should be pointed from two ends) and a 25x1x1 rack. In addition, you still need to prepare a sail fabric and colored paper.

As in the previous case, first make a drawing, depicting parts and a general view of the sailboat. Then take the board with a pointed end and note at its other end the pencil line for dipping. Then carefully dug the corner, directing the knob of the hacksaws along the lines. To make a mast, depth rail of the desired size, then fix in the vice and prepare a hole in it in it. After that, carefully wheys in the center of the sailboat body, a nail without a hat (up to half) and put on it a ready-made mast for better strength it can be pre-lubricated with glue.

Fig. 34. Sailboat

Any fabric is suitable for the sail (you can even use cardboard). To keep in mind that he should be shorter mast. Cutting the sail of the desired size, lock it on the mast with small carnations or glue. The finished product can you paint, cover with varnish and decorate with colored paper.

Making a wooden trolley is also quite simple (Fig. 35). To do this, you will need the following details: The trolley body with a size of 9 x 15 x 1.5 cm and the wheels with a thickness of 1.5 cm and a diameter of 4 cm.

As in other cases, at the first stage, make a drawing of the future product. The details of the trolley will be a bit: the base, 4 wooden wheels, nails and rope.

In order to make the wheels, take the cylindrical shape bar, die on it with a thickness of 1.5 cm and check the pencil. After that, do another 4 such marks (so that 4 wheels are obtained) and on the lines these details. Runs got gently passionate.

You also need a board, from which you need to sprill the base of the cart of the desired size. The resulting frame is cleared of roughness and sowing with sandpaper. After that, to note on it a pencil of the places of the wheel attachment at the same distance from the edges of the frame and do in them shallow holes for clogging nails.

Fig. 35. Trolley

Wheels must rotate. So that it happens, navigate them with a nail with a wide hat, which should be 3 mm at the same time. Twist the wheels around the nail-axis and check how they rotate.

First, the wheel is on the one hand. When you score the wheels on the other side of the frame, they will rely on the already attached wheels and they can enter the axis to the end, then they will become fixed. So that this does not happen, you need to invest between them and the frame of the hairpin with a diameter of 2-3 mm, and then the wheels will retain its mobility.

At the end of the work of the pribe to the center of the front of the frame of the nail, bent it with the help of bruises in such a way that the hook turned out, and tie the rope.

Car

Having learned to make a cart on the wheels, you can make it a car (Fig. 36). In this case, you will need the following details: The base with a size of 8 x 20 x 1.5 cm, a cab in size of 8 x 16 x 2.5 cm and wheels with a thickness of 1 cm and a diameter of 4 cm.

First of all, draw the drawing and consider the sequence of performance. Select the necessary wooden blanks, cleaning and well depress them using sandpaper.

Wheels for the future car make the same principle as for the trolley. You already know how to make them. Then you should prepare the base of the car. To do this, on the board with the help of the ruler, sample the necessary distance and note it with a pencil. Zazhi workpiece in vice and drank base. After that, you need to attach the upper part (cabin). To do this, score nails from the base side, previously noting these places with a pencil. Then in the wheels of hammering nails, until they leave on the other hand, and their bonds to the base in the same way as in the case of a cart.

Fig. 36. Car

When all parts are connected, the cradle should be painted. In addition, you can make headlights on your car, attach the number, etc.

Now try to make a tractor from wood (Fig. 37). Making this toy, you will learn to cut the wheels of a large diameter. For a tractor, the following parts are needed: 5.5 x 6.5 x 7 cm cabin, a base of 14.5 x 6.5 x 1.5 cm, 9x4 x 3,5 cm motor, a lump of 1.5x6,5x 1.5 cm, front wheel 0.8 cm wide and a diameter of 4 cm and a rear wheel of 1.5 cm wide and a diameter of 8 cm.

Fig. 37. Tractor

First, make a drawing of the tractor and look good for a general view of the toy. Determined the main details of the product and block the sequence of its assembly. Then select the necessary material for the parts of the tractor, that is, for the body, cab, bases and motor. For wheels, use a rugby size of different sizes. How to make wheels, you already know. However, when unshamed large wheels, do not rush, do this operation neatly and carefully.

After that, proceed to the assembly of the tractor. Squeeze suitable bars for details and sewing them with emery paper. The base of connecting with the cab and engine, while carefully score nails. After that, there is a small bar in front of the base for fastening the wheels.

Then I attach the rear and front wheels using the studs, and check if they are normal. When the craft is ready, paint it, let me dry and cut the lacquer. In addition, you can attach a small pipe (for example, from a metal rod).

Truck

If you have already made a passenger car, you can also make a truck (Fig. 38). To do this, you will need the following details: The base of 24 x 8 x 1,5 cm base, 5x6x8 cm cabin, 6x4x4 cm motor, the body size 13x8x4 cm and wheels with a thickness of 0.8 cm and a diameter of 3.6 cm.

Fig. 38. Truck

Out on a clean sheet of paper drawing a truck with a drawn line equal to the height of the cab. Then we define how many details you need to get a truck. Pick up suitable wooden bars of the desired size and shape. Thinking in what sequence you will collect parts of the product.

First you should freeze 4 identical wheels for a truck and polish them. After that, the remaining details of the desired dimensions drank and also treat them with a file and emery paper.

Base connection with a motor with 2 nails. Then, in a similar way, fix the cabin and body. After that, the wheel is reappearing so that they spinning, do not forget about the hairpin. The front wheels are accompanied at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the base, and the rear is 6.5 cm. When all parts are connected, proceed to the decoration of the toys. Paint your truck, let him dry and cut the joinery lacquer. In addition, you can attach to it number or check box.

Helicopter

Make a helicopter from a tree (Fig. 39) will be somewhat more complicated. But if you safely coped with previous toys, you can make this and this. You will need to prepare the following details: Cabin (its corners of the cut to the axial line at a distance of 2 cm from the edges at an angle of 22.5 °), a gearbox measuring 2 x 2 x 1 cm, 8x5x4 dimensions, a lifting screw (4 symmetrically located blades 18 cm, width in the center of 1.5 cm, ring in the center - with a diameter of 2 cm). In addition, you will need a tail beam with a size of 16 x 3 x 1.5 cm, the tail screw bar of 8 x 1.5 x 1.5 cm, the tail screw (3 symmetrically located the blades of 5 cm long), bars for fastening wheels 9x2x3 cm and4 wheels with a diameter of 3 cm and 1 cm thick. You also need to prepare glue, seer, scissors and a dense cardboard.

Fig. 39. Helicopter.

First, from dense cardboard, cutting 4 symmetrically located blades of the rift screw with the ring in the center, punctures in its middle a hole with a sewer. Similarly, make the tail screw. After that, make a detailed drawing of toys. Clearly draw all parts of the helicopter and general view. Well, if you have a photo of a real helicopter, then you can imagine why you need one or another item.

As in other cases, pick up or make bars of the desired size. Spill them, after closing in the vice and noting the place of cutting a pencil. Wheels make a familiar way to you. When all the details are ready, proceed to the toy assembly.

At a distance of 1 cm from the line between the corners and 2 cm from the edges of the cabin of Vbey 4 nails half. Cyanka Nasadi on them bars fastening the wheels. After that, on the beads of the tail screw, cover the nail tail screw. The nail is not necessary to drive completely in the middle of the front side surface of the bar. In the finished veto

summer screw should be at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. You can also additionally secure the screw with glue.

Then in the beads of the tail screw of the Vbey nail in the middle of the rear surface to the depth of the bar. Previously, first in the bar of the screwing hole sewing so as not to split it when driving. After that, the tail beam put vertically and the pribe to the upper cut of the pilot with a tail screw. For greater strength, the slice of the bar can be lubricated with glue. Then with two nails in the middle of the bar of the engine of the pribe gearbox and in advance to make a sequel hole for nails.

Inverting the motor bar and put a gearbox to it attached to it, then half a twice of 2 nails without hats at a distance of 1 cm from the edges, turn the part and the conversion of it to the cockpit. After that, the cabin, together with the details nailed to it, put on the side and the nails of the wheel on the left and right side, do not forget to put the hairpin. Pribe to the cockpit tail beam. In order not to damage the wheels, put the cockpit on a small bar and 2 nails of the pribe to the cabin cabin. After all the details are fastened, paint the helicopter and cut it with a varnish.

Wood carving

Very long ago, foreign guests admired the beauty of wooden carved columns and cornices of ancient Russia. Threads were decorated with churches and houses in Novgorod, Moskwe, Chernigov, Pskov, Voronezh and other Russian cities. Until now, scientists surprise the subtlety and grace of works of old masters, when archaeologists discover in the excavations of carved wooden dishes, boxes, chests, household items, children's toys, knives, ridges, women's decorations, etc.

Ancient Slavs were engaged in decorative wood carving. So you can imagine how long this is an unusual art. Russian masters loved to portray in their works of animals, plants, plots of fairy tales and epic, as well as fantastic creatures (mermaids, water, birds sirins, etc.). Since ancient times, a Russian peasant, renovated the house and finishing the field work, in endless autumn and winter evenings were taken for artistic wood thread. And today, despite the many polymers created in recent years, the tree continues to be one of the main materials.

Tools for wood thread

For a tree thread, you will need certain tools that you can purchase in a specialized store.

Knife-jamb. A feature of this knife is his beveled blade. He has another name "shoe knife" because it is used in the shoe craft. The blade can be bevelled at different angles: from 30 to 45 ° (Fig. 40). The wheel width of the knife is also varied from 4 to 50 mm. In addition, knives differ in the chamfer: it is removed from both sides of the canvas, and others have only one. Depending on the side with which the chamfer was removed, the use of single-phase knives is different. They are more convenient to work with the left and right hand, depending on the thread and for embossed rubberizing wood, taking into account the chamfer from which side should be. Knives with two chamfer are more versatile and are intended for simple cutting and other specific operations.

Bit. It often happens that straight chisels confuse with this tool, very similar to them. Externally, they are really similar, but the difference is to use them. Chisel is a slot tool and is used only in a complex with a wooden hammer (Cyanka). This is a more massive and large tool that is designed for more rough work.

Fig. 40. Knives-shoals

Stone chisel (Fig. 41). For wood threads, straight chisels are used, which differ in the width of the canvas. Depending on the purpose of the width of the web can be from 3 to 60 mm. The most common chisels do not go beyond the boundaries of 7-30 mm. The thickness of the canvas may also be different - from 1 to 7 mm depending on the width. The thickness of the chamfer varies from 5 to 15 mm. Straight chisels, as a rule, only single-phase. They are used to cut out the deepening of various shape and align the surface plane.

Fig. 41. Straight chisels

Angular chisels (Fig. 42). The differences between the angular chisels are concluded in the width of the canvas and the magnitude of the corner itself. The angle of the chisel can vary from 45 to 90 °. Their main use is reduced to the sample of deepening and applying the contour of the original drawing along the pencil lines, which during operation are quickly maintained and become invisible.

Fig. 42. Angle chisels

Semicircular chisels (Fig. 43). They are more specific for wood threads and are necessary where it is necessary to make a semicircular deepening or smooth lines that cannot be done using direct chisels. The main difference between semicircular rocks is the width of the canvas and the magnitude of the radius of its circumference: the smaller, the greater the depth of this chisel. Depending on this, semicircular chisels are divided into steep, detached and deep. For a novice carver, it is enough to have 2 semicircular chisels with a width of the canvas about 10-12 mm, one of which should be cool, and the other is otlogoy. The first is used to remove wood and sampling of recesses, and the second is necessary to circumcise the contours of the figures in the ornament.

Fig. 43. Semicircular chisels

Pereski-Kirkarázi (Fig. 44). There is another variety of chisels, which are called pridrise. They are divided into several types: straight, semicircular and coal. From other chisels, they differ in the curved shape and width of the canvas. Semicircular yields are still different from the radius, and the angular is the magnitude of the angle. Incidentally, the nature and value of bending are also presented. The main use of these chisels is reduced to the sample of wood in hard-to-reach places or at a sufficiently large depth, where it is impossible to use a conventional chisel. For a wood thread, several narrow bells are needed: straight, deep, semicircular and coal.

Fig. 44. Verniki-Kercareza

Tools for threads are very rarely found in stores, so most of the masters make everything you need for thread, on your own. At home is the easiest to manufacture a wood carving tool from ordinary industrial chisels.

Semicircular and angular chisels can be made from standard chisels with a width of a web 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16 mm. To do this, with the help of a gas burner or soldering lamp, there is an end of the standard of the standard chisel's web, and then slowly cool. After that, firmly in the vice of the prepared workpiece and sculpted with the metal of the metal of the industrial chisel. Round file on the cloth of the workpiece. Rush the groove of the desired size, after which the usual flat file crawled cloth on the other side.

The angular chisel at home is done in almost the same way as the semicircular. Differences relate only to the profile. The chisel to make the house is much more difficult, but still it is possible. To do this, take a simple semicircular or angular chisel, take off the handle, heightened the chisels of hot and on anvil or tongs make the desired bend. After that, the metal and nasadi to handle again.

After the chisel is granted the desired form, it must be molded. At first it should be done with a sharpening circle, and then tent on the donkey, which is specifically selected under the profile of the chisel. After sharpening and editing tools, make a test cutting, which will allow you to check how correctly the tool is based. When working with a sharp tool, precautions must be observed to avoid accidents. Another rule is that it is necessary to fasten the workpiece while working, and not to use hand as a retainer. In addition, when working, send the tool movement from yourself, and not on yourself.

How to choose and prepare wood threaded material

In order for the planned handicraft to clearly detect the texture drawing of the wood and did not contradict him, you need to study it. To do this, the selected wooden bar must be cut in 3 directions: at an angle of 45 °, along and across the fibers. Angular incision will give an texture pattern in the form of parallel lines. The incision along the fibers will show vertical lines of fibers. The transverse section gives a cone-shaped location of fibers, which are annual rings. Depending on the texture pattern, you can correctly arrange the already conceived pattern or come up with a composition that would emphasize the beauty of the texture. The harder the wood texture, the more beautiful you can create a drawing, and then the composition will look only richer.

All wooded rocks are made to divide into 2 groups: core and sabot (or nuclear-free). Such a characteristic of wood can be given only when transversely cut. The center with the kernels of the tree has a dark color: there is a softer layer of wood.

The center of the trunk of nuclear wood species does not differ in color from the main part of the barrel (Collus) and has the same density of the arrangement of wood cells. In essence, the kernel is missing here.

The group of core wood rocks include all conifers (for example, pine, larch, spruce, tees and cedar) and some deciduous rocks - such as oak, ash and poplar. Most hardwroduks include bare-free rocks: birch, rhine, maple, alder, etc. In addition to the texture pattern, a significant factor affecting the creation of the composition is a tree macrostructure. It is mainly represented by annual rings and heart-shaped vessels. This also includes various bitch, growths and undented eye shoots, deviating the annual rings and forming switches.

The most interesting are tree breeds with a pronounced texture, that is, with clearly distinguished annual rings, horizontal and vertical vessels. These include all conifers, Grab, oak, beech, Ilm and some others.

Organization of workplace

In order for your product to work out, as it was intended, it is not enough to have a desire, effort and good tools. You need a good workplace. If you used carpool for carving, it's good. If you do not have it, you can accommodate for this massive wooden stool, shop or a large wooden box. The surface of the desktop should not be low (so as not to slouch when working) or high (because of this too fast will be tired). In addition, it is necessary to take care of lighting. The light should fall on the left side so that the shadow from the cutter does not interfere with you to see the pattern or relief of the product, as well as it should not make a thread. It is preferably a medium, soft and scattered lighting that will not strain your eyes and will give the opportunity to see the game of shots on the ornament.

Simple threads

Starting classes are needed from the development of the simplest types of wood threads: contour and geometric (triangular-laid) (Fig. 45, 46). These types of carved works do not require complex tools and rare materials. The carved composition can practically be performed by one oblique knife on any of the hardwood, and in the geometric thread - on all coniferous rocks. Despite the ease of performance, the contour and geometric types of carved works have beauty, expressiveness and allow you to acquire the necessary skills and skills.

Fig. 45. Contour thread

The experience and skills you received during the first lessons will be able to successfully cope with more complex types of work: awarded carvings with a custoded and a selected background, and on the third year and with relief carvings. In the contour thread, the pattern is applied by the wood with in-depth lines of various widths, depths and shape of the outlines. Lines are performed by different tools: semicircular chisels, pins, profile cutters, oblique knife. Outwardly, this thread may seem very simple, but it is possible to perform it well, only having mastered the number of necessary techniques. The contour carving can be combined with other types of flat-elder threads: geometric, nail-shaped, jilted, Yavorovskaya.

Fig. 46. \u200b\u200bGeometric (triangular-laid) thread

The contour thread can be performed both in light and toned wood. Recently, a wide distribution among schoolchildren engaged in decorative art circles was the so-called black lacquet carving. This is a very interesting type of work when the image is created on a black brilliant background with clear strokes. Attracts the fact that the result of the effort is immediately visible. Indeed, a black shiny surface from light tool movement suddenly comes to life and transformed. Even portraits and complex landscapes can be created by contour threads. It is worth saying that the contour thread is actually somewhat reminiscent of the drawing, but the drawing is not a barch, but a linear-decorative, contour, the outlines of which are decorative patterns. Here it is necessary to work not by stiffers, but a slant knife and semicircular chisels (for transmitting circular outlines). If you want your work to be high-quality, look for plots for yourself not in postcards and photos, but in illustrated albums on folk decorative and applied art and special magazines.

Deciduous woods are suitable for rubber threads: linden, aspen, birch and alder. Conifer breeds in this case are almost no applied. Wood suitable size and without vices should be prepared for threads. In the event that you use light wood, it is enough to ride a planer. If you have conceived an image on a dark background, it must be toned.

If you want the drawing to be on a shiny surface, it needs to be covered with black varnish, and when it dries, polish the polish station. A uniformly tonned wooden surface under the thread can be prepared differently: for example, wipe the liquefied billet with a liquid stainary glue solution or PVA glue. After it gets dry, gripped the surface of shallow emery paper and again with a glue. After re-grinding, the wood surface is quite primed, so that the black mascara lay uniformly on it. The fascinating mascara should be lacquered and polished once again. For toning, you can use a variety of dyes: mascara, gouache, temperature, watercolor, aniline paints, various veils and dreashes, as well as mangartanous potassium. The surface can be left matte or covered with light varnish (fasten the paint) and polish.

The prepared table is firmly attacked on the surface of the workbench. You can do this in the clamps of the workbench or with the help of special holders - slats with rectangular or angular cuts. As a holder, you can use 4 small bar clamping a wooden surface from all sides.

Cutting the contour groove, carefully led the cutter with both hands. Knife clumps in the fist, and fingers a different hand guide the blade, supporting it, helping the movement or, on the contrary, holding back it.

The process of thread consists of several stages: performing a drawing of a carved composition, translating it to a skip, actually thread and finishing operations. The composition should be compiled, taking into account the characteristics of the type of thread and the nature of the workpiece that decorates. The outlines of the patterns should be extremely clear and clear.

Translation of the image on the workpiece depends on the color of its surface. If a plate of light color, you should take a black or purple copy paper. For dark blanks, it should be bright: yellow, green or red. But you can do without copy paper, using the usual handle with a rod without pasta. If you put it a little more, there will be in-depth lines on a wooden surface, which are clearly visible with any light. For them and carving is conducted.

If the details with small circles are conceived in the figure, cut out them with a semicircular chisel. If you do not have it, it can be made with a slam. At the same time, remember: the smaller the diameter of the circle, the sharper there must be a blade sharpening angle (up to 30 °). This tool (oblique knife) can be cut in all directions: from yourself, on yourself, with a slope to the right, left, inside the circle or outward.

The contour threads are often performed on a tonned and polished surface. If the drawing is cut on light wood, it must be protected from the effects of dust, moisture and air with a transparent varnish. Before applying the processing the carved surface of fine-grained emery paper. If she is acknowledged, it is better to polish it with a skin, put on a wooden bar. Grinding along the tree fibers. If the workpiece is turned out, the work must be carried out when the product is rotated in the machine clips. Do not forget to carefully remove wood dust from all thread recesses. To do this, you can use the clothing brush. Depending on the purpose of the product, the appropriate coating is applied to it. The surface of the wood can be labeled to the brilliance or achieve a matte coating, wiping the thread with a special brush with liquid diluted varnish. If necessary, before the coating of the varnish, you can toned the surface of the product with a thread (after grinding), and the intensity of the tone may be the most different - from the lightweight surface of the surface to a deaf dark tone both on top of the tablet and in carved recesses.

Geometric or triangled-laid thread. It is also called wedge-shaped, wedge-shaped, etc. It consists of a variety of alkaline patterns, the combination of which gives beautiful and expressive images (to the varieties of geometric threads sometimes include contour threads if it has straight or circular outlines).

This type of thread is very ancient and common, due to its simplicity and the possibility of performing one single tool - a cutter with a beveled cutting edge, the so-called knife-jammer. It is made in the form of a variety of recesses, which form geometric shapes on the plane.

The entire variety of geometric thread patterns practically consists of a combination of simple elements known to you: a scree and triangle that can be seen in any composition. Any, the most complex geometric pattern can be divided into the components of its elements, and they will be either scruts, or triangles.

In search of a decorative image, it is best to turn to works of folk art. The masters in different areas of Russia in the art of geometric thread there are, of course, their preferences, although the main elements of this thread everywhere are the same. From the combination of triangles and slightly merging into bizarre patterns (rhoms, snakes, chains, etc.), you can create many beautiful, expressive compositions on a wide variety of products.

All these separate two-man, triangular, four-man and multifaceted elements can be the most different size with straight and curved sides.

This creates a very large variety of geometric shapes. There are the following common variants of ornaments: "Beads" (Fig. 47), "Honeycombs" (Fig. 48), "Eye" (Fig. 49), "Snake" (Fig. 50), "Lestenka" (Fig. 51) , "Sockets" (Fig. 52), "Viteka" (Fig. 53), "Stars" (Fig. 54), "Lights" (Fig. 55), "Chain" (Fig. 56), "Scroll" ( Fig. 57), "wrinkles" (Fig. 58) IT. d.

Fig. 47. "Beads"

Fig. 48. "Honeycombs"

Fig. 49 - "Eye"

Fig. 50. "Snake"

To perform geometric threads, you will need a reliable tool - this is the so-called oblique or shoe knife. It should be durable, tightly sitting in his hand and very sharply honed. Some masters make themselves knives from wide files, old automotive springs or external cohesion of large bearings, and also pulled out on the electrical chip made of cutters cutters on metal. Good cutters are obtained from the spit cloth. Each master uses those opportunities that he has. The easiest, but good knife can be made from a conventional chisel width of 20-30 mm. It is usually thoroughly pulled out on the emery circle.

Fig. 51. "Lestenka"

Fig. 52. "Socket"

Fig. 53. "Witeka"

Fig. 54. "Stars"

Fig. 55. "Lights"

Fig. 56. "Chain"

Fig. 57. "Screws"

Fig. 58. "Wrinkle"

But the easiest way is to buy the right tool in a specialized store.

If you decide to make a knife yourself, make a wooden or plastic handle for it (or, applying a leather or foam rubber from two sides, tightly wrap the insulating tape). When performing a geometric thread, keep the knife firmly in a fist, resting behind the thumb stick in the knife stick. Following the other hand guide the knife tip, setting it on the drawing line.

You will easily master each of the thread elements after you learn from cutting the junction and triangle. In addition, the surface with geometric thread can be supplemented with various finishes that increases expressiveness and charm of the product. The decoration of a wooden surface with geometric thread may be different. It is worth named several species you can learn.

The craft with geometric thread can be covered with a gray tone using watercolor or liquid diluted black mascara. After drying the surface (within 24 hours) it must be pulled to a light tree.

Dark gray geometric patterns on a bright tree background very expressive. Gray has a wide range of shades - from gray-brown to a cold gray-blue. After grinding the prepared surface, light (in 1 layer) is the coating of its liquid diluted varnish.

However, you can perform work and otherwise: in advance to toned the workpiece prepared under the thread in a dark color, for example in gray or brown. Then let him dry and do thread on this background. Light patterns on a dark background will create an excellent decorative effect.

At the exhibitions of applied art, you can see wooden things toned in light-purple color (like divorced ink) with light threads on it. You can do it in a pre-lacquered or polished plank. If you toned the workpiece with the natural color of the ocher or wood, the cut patterns are obtained by matte and lighter than the shiny surface of the skimmer. If the surface is first toned, then lacquered (or polished), and it has already to cut the pattern, then the artistic clarity of the ornament increases significantly.

In order to produce wood tinting, you can use a solution of potassium mangartage. Its concentration can be different depending on the color you want to give the background. From ancient times, a wood berry juice was used as paint for tree tinting, welded onion husks, a decoction of crushed bark of trees (oak, alder or apple trees), decoction of sawdust wood of dark rocks, etc. However, this is a difficult matter. Currently it is best to use ready-made factory dyes for work.

Geometric thread can be decorated with both flat surfaces and volumetric things. Since this type of thread is the most simple, start to learn exactly on it. It is worth considering the technology of performing geometric threads. So, the most ordinary element is a dihedral notch. Such recesses can be different in shape and sizes, they can also be straight and mad, deep and shallow. Three-headed grooves, or just triangles, are also widely used element in geometric threads depending on which side of the triangle is a recess. There are basic (that is, the deepening is at the base of the triangle), vertex, or corners (the deepening is at the top), and the central (the deepening is reduced to one side of the triangle). Triangles also differ in their form.

More complex for execution are tetrahedral notches. They also differ in their form, depth and execution. Four grooves may have a form of a rectangle, square or rhombus. Often there are a variety of round and semicircular eyes, rays and lanterns, which are not the main elements of geometric thread, but very animated it. Even with the help of the most simple figures, you can create a beautiful ornament. For example, from a combination of identical dwarfish recesses, known ornaments of "Lestenka" and "Honeycomb" arise (Fig. 59).

Fig. 59. Four grooves

You should remember: the more faces in the ornament, the more combinations and types of their connections. Compared to dwarfranic ornaments, trigger notches, or triangles, give more variations. Here they appear diamonds, snakes, chains and so-called radiances. The vertex deepening in their connection creates slopes, slices and beads. If a combination of various types of triangles appears in the figure, then the ornament is even more expressive than when connecting the triangles of one species. Combinations of quadrogenous surroundings are somewhat less common. In most cases, they are used with other elements.

In order for the pattern to be accurate, you need to carefully measure and place a wooden plane under the future drawing. Geometric carving is convenient because the markup is easier for it than the other type of thread. This is due to the use of geometric shapes that are applied using a drawing kit and a pencil. Calculate the size of the ornament, and then the hard pencil apply straight lines to the plane parallel to the edges of the workpiece.

Now you can proceed to the markup of the inner space of the composition. Squares of splits into smaller, and then on triangles that can be entered into a circle or ovals for outlets.

After the markup is completed, you can start the thread. First, finish dihedral notches. To do this, vga in the surface of the blank the edge of the knife knife is 3 mm, and then sell all the blade of the knife on the same depth. For the teething of the end faces from the already cutting median line, take 2 small perpendicular cuts. A simple vertical immersion of the knife blade into the end of the median line gives the necessary profile in the depth of the workpiece. Now the plane of the side inclined faces must be cutting with the knife edge, directing its movement along the median line. In order for the plane to be with the desired slope, the knife must be kept at an angle of 30-40 °, since with another value of the angle of recess is obtained by inexpressive. After that, the trigger sins should be easily separated. If this did not happen, it means that some verges of the notch were poorly cut and should additionally cut through them all.

Trigger notches are harder. The cutting of each type of triangles has its own characteristics. Thread of vertex triangles, or so-called corners, must be performed in 3 receptions. First, vertically set the tip of the knife to the point of the triangle vertex, where it will be the maximum deepening. Then, along one of the side faces, rush wood to the desired depth. After that, set the tip of the knife into the cutting top and make the median line on the depth to which the triangle will be cut. Having setting the tip of the knife again into the top, along the lateral cuts of the deeper, each side of the triangle to the middle of the line.

If you want to make a deepening in the center, that is, a central triangular recess, you will have to perform 6 slots, 3 of which pass through the rear edges, and the rest are on the inclined edges of the triangle. Before proceeding with the teet of the sides of the triangles, note on the plane of the Figure Center. To do this, from each vertex to spend perpendicular to the opposite side. The intersection of these lines and give the center of the triangle. After that, set the edge of the knife in the center and the deepening of it by 3-4 mm, and then lower the entire blade of the knife to the vertex of the triangle.

In order for a triangular recess with a deepening at the base, that is, the main triangular excavation, first note the middle of the base. Then set the tip of the knife at this point and towards the top of the coarse knife blade. Then it is a vertically to say the foundation. The side sides of the triangle are already cut through the familiar principle: the blade of the knife should be deepened at an angle of 30-40 ° from the base to the top of the triangle.

The technology of execution of four-man recesses repeats all those techniques that are used in the execution of dihedral and triangular recesses. First, it is necessary to draw the square and enter it another, with smaller sides. Then make cuts of the sides of the inner triangle to a depth of about 3 mm. Then, turn the rosters from the vertices of the inner square to the tops of the outer square. After that, it is necessary to cut through the wood of the square of the square. And the central part and the inner square choose a simple straight line.

Before you start, you should give you several recommendations on the thread of the geometric ornament. Take into account that the rubber notes are oriented relative to wood fibers. First you need to cut the edges going on fibers, and then against them. If the tip of the knife is at an angle to the fiber, turn the workpiece so that the blade takes place along them at an acute angle. When teething faces that are located along the fibers, do not immerse the blade of the knife for the whole length, because they can lead the cutter from the straight line. To do this, it is better to make several cuts, cutting out every time the wood is deeper and deeper. It will be more convenient if you use 2 knife-shoams when performing geometric shapes: with one-sided and bilateral chamfer. The first tool is more convenient to work when creating faces of recesses. The second knife will make sure to cut through the median line or rib strokes. In addition, the blade of the knife must always be from the side of the pinch, and not from the side of the processed face. This will allow carvings better and beautiful.

Unlike the above-described types of threads in a revolving thread there are no clear certain figures. Drawing ornament You can come up with myself. It can be both interesting vegetable garlands, as well as images of animals or people. We consider the features of a membered thread on the example of one of the most remarkable - Kudrinskaya (Abramtevo-Kudrinskaya) (Fig. 60).

Fig. 60. Kudrinskaya carving

The continuity of the pattern of vegetable escapes, the nobility of the garlands from branches, colors, the leaves causes the feeling of "curly" ornament. The main pattering role in this type of thread is played by classic garlands of petals, on the one hand pointed, and on the other - rounded. They are continuous, drawing, which emphasizes the entire style and system of the ornament. Between the garlands, various images are usually cut: people, birds, animals, berries and flowers.

Pictures of animals, birds and fish surrounded by flowers and leaves are quite common motifs in Kudrinsky thread. They are found on wooden dishes, round larges, glasses for brushes, ink devices and female bracelets.

Nowadays, the visual motifs of Kudrinskaya thread have become much richer. There were stories related to the themes of the holidays (New Year, the 8th of March, etc.) and memorable dates in the history of Russia. But the main thing is that the images always have been surrounded by a continuous flow of a vegetable pattern, as if escalating the main drawing.

The preparatory drawing in this form of threads must be carried out in the magnitude of the future work with a tone elaboration (pencil, carcass, watercolor or gouashe colors). This will help you clearly submit the final result of the work.

For the first tasks on the development of this thread, it is recommended to use mainly soft wood species - such as linden, alder and aspen. First, it is better to use the samples that are offered in the literature on a thread, and then using the accumulated experience, you can invent independent compositions.

Transfer pattern to a prepared wooden surface with a copy paper. The cutting process itself is conditionally divided into several stages: heating, background processing and modeling elements. When working, the chisel hold in a fist with a blade vertically down. First, the kings are the coolest curls of the thread, and then more gentle. The sharp edge of the chisels put on the contour line, with pressure go deepen into a tree by 3-4 mm and turn the brush to scroll around the axis. The movement must be performed until the chisel blade moves along the contour corresponding to the diameter of the chisel.

Then you should take a more common chisel and, having witnessed it close to the slot left by the first chisel, make a knuckle further. The cut line should be smoothly (without fesoms and skips) to move from the arc of one diameter to the other arc. Transitions do smoothly, and the most common parts of the pattern cut the knife cutter. All lines of slits must be vertical with respect to the plane. The depth of the knockers is not everywhere may be the same: in the arc of twisted curls, it is the most profound, and where individual petals converge on the general stalk of the plant, the pallows coming to the surface. It can be done immediately throughout the carved surface, but it is possible and consistently, by plots, completing each of them finally.

The following stage is the release of the picture from the surrounding field, that is, cutting the background around each thicker element. This work can be performed by a knife-cutter or semicircular chisels of a larger diameter than those produced by a pattern of pattern. From the edge of the pattern, retreating towards the background for 2-3 mm and at an angle of about 45 ° with pressing the carp of the blade into the tree around the circular circuits around the drawing. The edge between the deepening and the background is removed by additional, flatter cutter cutters. As a result, the ornament becomes easily rising from the background. All irregularities, burrs and residues of fibers should be cut and removed from all the catches and bottlenecks around the pattern. The drawing should clearly and clearly perform from the in-depth background. Then you need to start working out each of the elements of the ornament: Sold up sharp ribs in such a way that the outlines are rounded. At the end of the work, all threads should be gently rounded, not having sharp boundaries, and all contours should be like gently melting. Remove the excess material from the pattern elements follows semicircular chisels (rotated the chute down) and a cutter knife.

Among these gently rounded leaves, petals and stalks, Kudrinsky wizards are sometimes introduced for contrast. Such a notch is the final stage of the finish.

In Kudrinsky thread, the background is best left gently rounded, located on the same level with the upper patterns of the pattern. But it can be done so that the ornament turns out to be raised above the background. In this case, the latter is done around the pattern to the depth of the pallows, and the result is a Kudrinsky carving with a selected background. To make a thread special distinctness and expressiveness, the background is often cleaned. It is easiest to arrange it with a large nail, pre-sharpened and polished. To booze significant planes, you need to make the necessary tools - punches with a notch on the same part. The notch should be deep enough and sharp to leave on the tree clear, evenly in-depth traces.

The product finishing includes grinding of a carved surface, toning it with dyes and applying a transparent protective coating. Usually, the Kudrin threads, the material for which is mainly the bright linden, is toned in dark brown color, lacquer, and then polish the convex places of patterns and background. As a result, excellent sparkling patterns with pronounced matte gaps of an in-depth background. Depending on your desire, you can save the natural color of wood. To protect the craft from dust and moisture, it must be covered with liquid diluted varnish, rubbing it into a tree with a special brush. In this case, the lacquer does not give gloss and retains the color of the tree. Kudrinsky ornaments are equally wonderfully looking at the accurate, dubble and crafted blanks, complementing and emphasizing the shape of products.

Floor thread (Fig. 61) is one of the most common types of wood treatment. This carving is flat, low ornamental relief. It must be done in such a way that the background around the entire pattern is cut or completely removed to a depth of 5-7 mm.

Fig. 61. Floor thread

In this type of thread, the drawing takes bulk forms, while maintaining the same height of most protruding planes or certain faces at the same level of the depth of the main background.

The pattern planes can be separated by notches, recesses and rounding faces, for example, convex, concave or partially straight. Masters of flat-waste thread depicts mainly animals, birds, people and plants. This thread can be performed on different backgrounds: custoded, selected, waspired, undergoed and selected.

So, to perform a flat-strained thread with a membered contour you have to cut grooves. This has similarity with contour threads. The difference lies in the fact that then the contours of the image are curly both from the pattern side and on the side of the background. First you need to make an open-knocker knife along the contour of the pattern. On the roundabilities of the ornament, cuts are made by semicircular chisels of the desired profile, and when the experiment appeared - the blade. If the image of the image is a cooler of the radius of the chisel, then the work can be performed by the corner of the alcohol. To do this, you need to turn it around the axis, and then remove the background with a flat chisel with an inclination to a plane at an angle of 30 ° or a knife and rounding it with further passages with a knife-jammer or a chisel.

From the pattern of the circuit, the contour needs to be cooled than from the side of the outstanding look, in this case the image will look more convex. After inflaming with the help of incisors, the product can also be seized with a skin.

Thread with a custoded background is a type of thread with awarded contour. The difference lies in the fact that the contour does not remain flat and can be lower than the plane of the craft pattern. The technique of work is similar to a thread with a membered contour.

Barbed flat-grained thread (Fig. 62). At a later period, a new element appeared in geometric threads - a bracket. It began to be widely used in combination with geometric recesses and in combination with contour threads. The fact that the bracket is an interesting and bright element made it possible to allocate the brace of thread as an independent direction. However, in practice, it is very rarely used separately and more often occurs in combinations with other elements.

Fig. 62. Barbed flat-grained thread

Sometimes it is believed that the stacked flat-gravy carving is less laborious than the geometric, and requires smaller time spending. In fact this is not true. A characteristic feature of the bracket threads are rounded various forms and lines of the ornament. They give a more muted game of lighting, which is softer here, in addition, it is smooth and is evenly distributed in the excavations. In addition to the knife-shoik, without which it is impossible to do when performing a plane-grained ornament, you will also need a large set of semicircular chisels, because without them this type of thread is simply impossible.

Of the main simple elements of the bracket thread (eyes, brackets, holes and marigolds) you can combine more complex figures of images, such as circles, flowers, leaves, sockets and waves. The technique of performing a globular plane-grained thread is reduced to 2 sequential receptions - notch and trimming. And the result is a pronounced and aesthetic ornament.

The notch is as follows: put the chisel vertically to the processed workpiece and with the help of a small pressure of it with the blade cutting the contour of the element for its entire depth. Unlike notches, which performs vertical profiles of elements, trimming creates all inclined profiles. This is similar to the technique of geometric thread. In order for under the trimming, a clearer notching profile, placing a picture in such a way that the tool blade moves along the fibers, and not across them. Depending on which part of the excavation is located the greatest recess, several types of elements of the broken thread are distinguished. Wells can be performed with a deepening of the oval edge or in the center.

In order to get a hole with a deepening of the oval edge, you will need a semicircular chisel and a knife jamb. First sell the workpiece by the chisel to a depth of 3 mm, and then cut the hole with a knife along the inclined plane at the entire depth of the space.

The well with a deepening in the center is performed differently. First, to read the average line and make a knife vertical knife on it to a depth of 3-4 mm. This notch can be made by a direct point of which the chamfer is made by a semicircle, it allows you to more accurately perform the prospector profile. Then the semicircular chisel make a trim. It turns out an oval concave notch. The chisel, reaching the central line, should completely separate the chips on one side. Depending on how the edge is a deepening, internal and external marigolds are separated. In order to perform internal marigolds, a semicircular chisel make a notch, and then cutting her edge. To make an outdoor marigold, also a semicircular chisel cut out the outline of the future nogot and the cut is already a jamb. After that, also by a semicircular chisel to focus the inclined plane, turning the chisel to the curved side up.

With the help of a semicircular chisel, you can perform a wide variety of patterns. If you turn it all the time in one direction, then the circle will turn out. And if you alternate the nails or wells, directed up, then down, then the ornament is as a wave.

Relief thread (Fig. 63). This type of thread is very similar to the flat thread. However, there are a number of differences. Most often it is used when decorating furniture and interior. It has a deeper and pronounced relief of the ornament from flat-electric thread. In addition, it turns out volumetric and very highly protruding on the background plane. Depending on this, there is a bas-relief and burning thread, which are not much different on the execution technique. During operation, all tools for wood thread are used.

Fig. 63. Relief thread

First draw the pattern on the sheet of paper in full size. If the future relief is quite complex, not consisting of one level, you can make an image from plasticine. Then transfer the pattern to the workpiece using a solid pencil. After that, the contour of the resulting pattern came to a knife or chisel. The incision must be vertical, so as not to pick up a few millimeters from the ornament. Then finish the trim. To do this, it is convenient to use flat or semicircular chisels, directing them to the surface at an angle of 45 °. Try at the same time not to go abroad of the future pattern.

In addition, you need to choose a background. To do this, it is better to start from large plots, gradually moving to the small one. At the same time, you will need much attention and a good eye, so that the background turns out at one depth. Now, when the main outlines of the pattern are clearly visible, you can proceed to the elaboration of the form of the image. First of all, the brink must be replaced. This is done in the same way as with a flat-tech thread. At first, at an angle of 45 ° was removed from the edges of the wood, and then smooth the round chisel.

Before you start a detailed teething of the pattern, come back to the background and make the last stripping. It is necessary to smooth all the small irregularities, small depth differences and other flaws. For stripping the background it is convenient to use flat chisels and priperazy. As before, you first paid attention to the big plots, and then gradually go to the small one. After the entire background is cleaned, it is necessary to level the image surface alignment. After that, you can proceed to the teething of thinner and small parts on the relief and applying on the background of the chased pattern from points.

Volumetric thread (Fig. 64). This type of thread is the most interesting and bright view of the traditional wood thread. There is another his name to this art - sculptural thread. During operation, a wide variety of funds are used, the main of which is the volume. Here you have to be able to think in the amount that sometimes it is not easy.

Fig. 64. Volumetric thread

Before proceeding with the thread itself, make a sketch of the future ornament of plasticine. This is a fairly comfortable material for a novice carver, since it gives great opportunities for experiment and fantasy. First of all, we think about the contours of the product, which must be compact. All items must be well strengthened on the basis of due to the properties of the tree. The feed of that pick up the wooden billet of the appropriate size and move it with strokes of the contours of the future craft to it.

Before starting the thread, make rude draft. To do this, it is convenient to use an ax and a saw that allows you to significantly save time and strength. With the help of the chisels, cut down the main contours and forms of the future figurines. First use large wide sties that are convenient to cut enough large parts of the product. It is better to remove the wood with small layers, because otherwise there is a possibility that you will delete too much and thus spoil the workpiece. After that, using narrower chisels, wean small details. Then give the figure to the finished form, firm and escort all the details, as well as the rush, if necessary, through holes.

Rubber and overhead thread (Fig. 65, 66). This type of thread is different from other the fact that the background may be present, and maybe absent. Depending on this, the flat rubber rubber threads and overhead threads are distinguished. They both are quite widely used to decorate furniture, only here for convenience use a special fixture called a pillow. This is a wooden board, on which a sheet of paper is glued, and then cut down the contour of the workpiece. Paper layer is necessary in order to make it easier to be easier to separate from the pillow. Thanks to the last fragile openwork, the billet is in a fixed position, which allows you to better perform threads.

Fig. 65. Rubber thread

Fig. 66. Overhead thread

From simple to complex

Above, we have already considered the basic principles and techniques of simple geometric threads. It is from it that you should begin to catch your skills. When you master the first testers, you can go to more complex ornaments. But everything is your time, in this matter do not need to hurry, everything needs to be done in stages.

Having mastered the elements of the geometric and contour thread, you can try to work on the flat-stranded ornament. Russian masters very often use in their works such an element of the pattern like a flower. Here on it and should be stopped in more detail. For threads, you will need knives and shocks with a bevel angle of 35 and 45 °, half-plane chisels 12-18 mm wide, steep semicircular chisels with a diameter of 5-8 and 10-14 mm. It is best to use a linden blank 200 per 100 mM, pre-prepared. Then the circulation on the plane of drawing a circle with a diameter of 50 mm, placing it at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edges of the workpiece.

First you need to cut the core of the flower. To do this, take a steep semicircular chisel with a diameter of 10-14 mm. Put it into the center of the circumference strictly vertically to the surface of the board, and then make pressure and deepen it by 2 mm, turning around your own axis (Fig. 67).

The operation should be done carefully so that the core of the flower does not occur. Therefore, do not deepen the chisel more than 2 mm. Outside a chisel to take the wood around the flower core. It is best to choose a chisel with a width of 12-18 mm (Fig. 68).

To increase the relief of the core of the flower, a deeper groove should be made around the circle (Fig. 69).

Fig. 67. The first stage of work on the element "Flower"

Fig. 68. Demolition of wood around the core

Fig. 69. Getting a more convex flower core

In order to cut through the flower petals, use a steep semicircular chisel with a diameter of 7-8 mm. Focusing on the edge of the circumference, put it at an angle of 70-85 ° to the plane of the workpiece, directing the chisel blade from the center of the flower circumference (Fig. 70).

Fig. 70. Cutting edges flower petal

Then successively, the edge of each petal to the depth of 3-4 mm. It will take time, because in the corners there should be no overlaps and gaps. After that, you can start cutting the flower petals. For more accurate execution of this stage of work, their markup is marked with a pencil. To make a bike recess between the petals, take the knife jamb with a bevel angle of 35-45 °. This operation is performed by two cuts directed towards each other at an angle of 45-60 ° to the billet plane (Fig. 71).

Fig. 71. Two-handed deepening between flower petals

You should take into account that two-granular depresses that share petals should be clearly closed with the rounded edges of the flower in the places of contact of the chisels. Each petal form finally, and the surface is separated by 2 passages with a steep semicircular chisel with a diameter of 5-6 mm. For this operation, put the chisel to the outer edge of the petal at an angle of 20-30 ° to the plane of the wood and, capturing a tree on the half of the petal width, lead it to the core of the flower (Fig. 72).

If all the work is done correctly, the flower should turn out to be a pronounced resident in the middle. Its core rounded with a half-plane chisel width 12-18 mm, while holding it with a convex side up (Fig. 73).

The masters often use flower in their works and a combination of it with other interesting elements. As a result, beautiful ornaments with twigs, leaf, berries, etc.

Fig. 72. Formation of flower petal

Fig. 73. Rounding the core of the flower

Wood sculpture do it yourself

A wooden sculpture is a very extensive concept that includes decorative sculptures and compositions, decorative and applied products, miniatures, small genre sculptures, different decorations and forest finds. A figurine of birds, animals, people and various fabulous characters, which are made of dead wood (Fig. 74) also include decorative sculptures and compositions. It is rarely able to achieve the resulting composition well on all sides. Here, first of all, it is important how to put it so that the image is most clearly appeared in front of the audience. Such figures can hang on the wall and stand on any surface.

Fig. 74. Tree figures

In order to make an interesting product, it is often possible to use not only thoroughly prepared pieces of wood. Insert the image of the wondrous bird, an oak animal or some kind of magical creature can also a conventional drying of the tree (Fig. 75). For a forest sculpture, you can use various finds (in the forest or in the park): Dry rhizomes, old stumps, thighs on tree trunks, or bizarre curved branches. Your fantasy will play a big role here, which will help you find among many wooden material exactly that after the processing of which the original figure will turn out. In this case, not only the form of the workpiece, but also the peculiarities of its natural pattern, as well as the original texture and pronounced natural color of wood will come to the rescue.

Fig. 75. Forest sculpture

When working with the workpiece, use the same skills of work as with a wood thread, but only with one difference. The master must not change the inner essence of the sculpture, but only help the wood show itself, to display a hidden image, make it more expressive. Here, it's not the ability to keep the instrument in your hands, but patience. It is important to carefully remove a small layer of wood and see what he can say feel that he says what he pushes. The author of the forest sculpture is the very nature itself, and a person only helps her, expresses as it were already ready to look. It is important to remember that carving in the manufacture of a forest sculpture is only a means that is used quite limited.

Decorative and applied products include all that can be used in everyday life, for example, various vases, cutting boards, candlesticks, trays, dishes, scab, boxes, caskets, and much more. Unlike the decorative sculpture in the manufacture of such things, more skill and careful processing is needed. Most often, various growths on the trunks and roots of trees are taken for this purpose. If you want to cut a casket or a vase from such an outflow, much easier and more convenient when working, do a hole on top of the workpiece, with a convex side. With this approach, it is possible to better distinguish the features of the structure of wood, its texture drawing and future ornament. Making a vase, a casket, a kashpo or tray, do the walls and the bottom of the crafts are quite thick, then you can not think about the wall thickness when performing an external thread.

Miniatures and small figures include all decorative forest sculptures of small sizes. Often their height does not exceed 3-5 cm, and they are made from small elastic bans, barks, pieces of wood bark, various cones, acorns and forest nuts. As a rule, it is not just a sculpture, but a developed genre scene aimed at disclosing the character of the figure.

Wood cuts and sections, most often fruit trees, possess the original pattern. Such drawings are quite well suited for the manufacture of various jewelry - pendants, bracelets, necklaces, hairpins, segments and suspension. Forest finds include all crafts from the branches of old trees, food and roots. To identify the image you will need a little effort during processing, a lot of fantasy and bright creative thinking.

In order for the original figure from the workpiece, you will need some money. First of all, it is the billets that should be well sucked. At the first stage, the wood brought from the forest well to the jet under the jet of warm water to remove the nanish communion of the land and detached pieces of workpiece. After that consider wood. It should not be traces of various wood insects, which began rotting or mold. Immediately after the washing procedure, it is necessary to separate all the bore from the workpiece, as it can still become an interesting element in sculpture.

Sew wood is best at room temperature in a polyethylene package, so you can avoid the unnecessary appearance of cracks and changes in the form. Find a suitable place (preferably some closed box or bedside table) for storing the workpiece and waste, which are obtained when processing wood.

Do not hurry to throw away different sinters, debris and even sawdust, which can then be used to design the composition and refine any items of the product. Sawdust and fine chips are well used to close the seams and unwanted holes and cracks. Such a putty is done very easily: mixing sawdust with varnish to the formation of a viscous mass, which should not be too thick. However, a very liquid smear is also inconvenient to use.

Find material for the future product is quite difficult. Often it is not possible to immediately catch hints of nature, see the dynamics of movement, contours and the very image of the future sculpture. In order to find the desired wood, you should not leave far into the forest wilderness. You can simply resemble the outskirts of the forest or the park, where the trees acquire the vessels. A lot of color roots of trees and branches can be found along the shores of rivers and lakes. Long while in the aquatic environment, wood acquires an unusual beautiful shade and polished surface. Such a tree does not need high costs when processing, you will only need to give the workpiece the desired form.

In peat swamps, it is quite common to be unusually curled and polished amber-brown pine roots, from which you can cut anything: from small miniatures to significant outdoor compositions. Very interesting material can also be found in the city of trimming trees.

As for any work with a tree, you will need an ordinary hacksaw, which will help separate the desired fragment from a large piece of wood. If you wish to make a decoration from a tree, then you will not need an ordinary hacksaw, but a metal knife. It will help to avoid a long processing of a tree cut, which with its help it turns out enough smooth, without jar and irregularities. Knives are the necessary tools when working with a tree. You will need an ordinary knife jamb and a knife curve, the end of which is slightly bent, and the blade is sharpened from 2 sides of the bend. Among the chisels are the most important for the work of semicircular chisels and chisels-Kercareza. Just in case you also need to have a hand drill, a bull, cycle and a wooden hammer at hand.

There are no special recommendations when working with sculpture. All entirely and completely will depend on you. But still there are several moments, without which the manufacture of figures will be impossible. First, it concerns cutting out of the tree bent hands and legs. It is necessary to do this as follows. First, select the branch of the desired diameter and the appropriate texture, the cutting of the neglection under the desired angle and the joints with the workpiece with the help of PVA glue. If the hand or foot should be bended in 2-3 places, you will need to make several fragments from this branch and glue them with each other.

Quite often, the cut is not quite high quality, and then the seams appear when gluing parts. They can be sealed with a mixture of sifted sawdust from the same material and PVA glue, which, if desired, can be replaced with wood varnish. To keep the details better, and the seams between them were invisible, you can also make a patch. To do this, the chips from the same wood, impregnate her PVA and fall into the place of bend. Try to cut completely coincided with the pattern of parts. In order for the patch to be fixed, for 3-4 hours, they clarify it with an ordinary medical bandage, and after drying the trees with a shallow sandpaper and cut the lacquer.

In the manufacture of sculptures and other crafts made of wood, chemical compositions are used, they should also be felt. First of all, you need to call adhesives. Usually, the masters use adhesive based on epoxy resin (EDP) and PVA glue, which fastens pieces of wood. In addition, when processing wood, chemical solutions are used: mangartageous or chromium potassium, copper or iron sulfice, sulfur sodium, bora and chromium oxides.

Lucky is used when finishing almost finished crafts. When coating a nitroloma, you can save time, and after applying oil varnish it turns out a more beautiful and smooth surface.

If you do not want to give your figure glossy glitter, after applying the last layer of varnish, a sandy lacquer coating with a zero sandpaper. The same result is obtained when using a mixture of sand and turpentine, taken in a ratio of 1: 3 or 1: 4. Apply a warm mixture with a cotton swab and scattering a soft cordly rag before the appearance of light glitter. But this coating does not protect the wood from environmental impacts, so it can darken and spoil.

In order for a decorative sculpture for a long time kept and pleased you, put it on a slight exaltation away from the heating devices and sun rays. So that you do not have to wash dust too often from it, place it in the cabinet for the glass door. So you can avoid the growth of dust and various breakdowns caused by the arrival of friends, who always strive to touch everything and hold in their hands.

Rules for successful working with wood

1. Do not rush

Do not waste time and nerves in trying to save spoiled parts if their dimensions were less than required, or if your equipment does not allow our actions to repeat. You will be able to avoid problems, carefully studying a list of materials, the blanks for which are cut off with the allowance. If you want to apply another accessories in the project, be prepared to make changes to the product design. In any case, planning to use the recommended accessories or replace it in your liking, take it before starting work on the project.

2. Prepare materials

If you need straight and flat parts (for example, for a frame or shield), ostrive all the boards on the one hand, and then skip them across a racket machine. The planing machine levels and makes a flat one boards, and after processing on the flight, the opposite ray becomes parallel to the first and also aligns. Before making parts and their assembly, calibrate all the blanks in thickness without changing the settings of the reysmus machine.

3. Pick the texture pattern

Newbies usually do not give the values \u200b\u200bto the pattern of texture and consider all the boards equivalent, but the specialist can mostly identify the properties of each board. Choose boards with an interesting pattern for an attractive casket cover or door panel. Post aside separately layered boards for shield blanks and parts of the frames. Before the shield gluing, take some time on the selection of a better combination of the plot, in which the drawing of neighboring parts coincides, and the joints become less noticeable.

4. Leave a small battery allowance

Sawn boards along on separate parts, leave the allowance of about 1 mm in width. To bring the width to the final, make one or two easy passage on a planer machine to remove traces of sawing.

Before drinking out folds or grooves to insert panels from plywood or other sheet materials, check the thickness of the final details twice and make trial cuts on trimming. Do not trust the factory labels and stamps - the actual thickness of the material may differ from the claimed.

6. Start up

Most projects have to make two and more identical details or several parts of the same length. To be guaranteed to achieve accurate match, use the simplest stops. In many cases, it is enough to fasten the cutting of the trim of a bar or a board on a parallel or corner of a sawing machine, a tracing saw or a milling table, as shown in the photo.

Do not delay the grinding and tinting of individual parts until the end of the assembly of the product. For example, it is better to inhibit the inner edges of the frame and the profile part of the panel, before proceeding to the assembly of the door. If you are going to tint the product, apply a style to the seal to the assembly to eliminate the appearance of unpainted bands if the sealer will subsequently dry.

8. Check dry assembly

Avoid discouraging disappointment when in the middle of the process of complex assembly it is found that two parts are not suitable for each other. Check each connection immediately after its manufacture. Then collect the whole product, fixing the parts only by clamps. If it is inconvenient, then collect dry, and then glue individual assembly nodes and pon them to full correspondence for the final assembly.

If with you to and all connections are evaporated with extruded glue, it means that you apply glue too abundantly. Lubricate the thin layer of glue only one of the details of each connection. When applied to the optimal amount of glue, it is only slightly squeezed out of the joint in the form of small droplets or a thin roller after compression by clamps. After about half an hour, when the glue starts to push, becoming rubber-like, remove it excess with the paint scraper. More often, clean the scraper with a paper napkin, so as not to smear the glue on the surface of the product.

10. Take care of patience

At a temperature of +20 ° C with a compound glued with joinery glue, it takes an hour excerpt in the clamping state and another day to achieve the maximum strength of the gluing. But if you work in a cold garage, you should double the exposure time in clamps for every 10 ° below +20 ° C. Although modern glue can operate at a temperature of about +5 ° C, the temperature of the wood turns out to be more important than air temperature. If the boards were lying all night in the cold, do not hope that they quickly warm up to the optimum temperature with the heater.

Stainwork is not only a room for working with a tree. These are a hobby, which are passionate about many men. After all, it allows you to make everything necessary for home and the site with your own hands - from furniture to the gazebo. What equipment a joinery workshop need, how and where to equip this room to make it convenient and safe to work, what to get, where to start, how to learn how to work with a tree, that in general it can be done from it - the experience and ideas are divided by forumhouse.

Tools in a joinery workshop. Recommendations of a specialist. A carpentry case for Alexander Koldinikova is a hobby, and the profession at the same time. In the video, Alexander advises how to properly equip his carpentry workshop. What machines are needed for the joinery workshop, what are the necessary tools of the joinery workshop, what raree tools he would recommend buy, especially if you are going to make joinery to order. And also tells about the device of the machine, made by hand from the primary materials.

Garage and joiner workshop in one building. Alexander - Moscow carpenter, and makes wooden windows itself. In the acquired country site, he needed a place for work, and he decided to combine the joinery workshop with a garage. By installing carpentry tools and machines, he began to work!

Making a simple attic staircase. In details . With the help of a carpenter, we demonstrate all stages. Production of a simple attic staircase from oak.

Wooden stairs. Often the staircase installed in a wooden house, after time, changes its geometry and begins to shift relative to the main design. But errors can be avoided. How to do this, tells the chamber-chamber Denis Andreev. And at the same time will give a professional advice for those who like to make furniture with their own hands.

Wood formation. Master Class . Braching is a special technology for structuring wood, thanks to which products from wood acquire a noble aged look. In the plot - a master class from the architect Sergey Petrov on the formation of wood for furniture. The method shown by Sergey allows you to make a blackboard smooth, pleasant to the touch and, which is very important for furniture, - without a reference.

Theme on the forum:

This topic is a real practical encyclopedia, which you can sing: "Joiner's workshop, tools and equipment." Here everyone who loves to work with the tree and does it every day, will find for themselves the most different useful information - from cleaning air in the joinery workshop and equipment of this room with necessary inexpensive tools to interesting ideas with drawings for the manufacture of wooden products.

- This is another multi-volume topic of technologies that can be used to process wood and techniques for working with a woodworking tool. Here the forum users share their secrets and personal experience.

. dGUSEPEhe opened a separate theme about the fascinating lesson - the trecent of the tree, and began "with Azov" - safety equipment. Come see what products he and other forum users have managed to make it easier.

Handmade woodworking power tools for milling is another good assistant joiner, especially when the joinery is about to grow up to the size of a large shop. Processing the edges, cut the grooves, drill holes - not a complete list of work with which it can easily cope. Provided if you reacted to its purchase with understanding of the case, and not just chose the most inexpensive.

Tree is a unique material for various works. First, it is a pure material of plant origin and wood products do not have any bad impact on a person, but only positive emotions. Secondly, it is soft and convenient for processing, with the exception of some varieties that are comparable to iron. Thirdly, various shades of wood and its structure allow you to produce very beautiful things, not only by domestic lovers, but also by professionals.

Depending on the purpose, there are many types of wood treatments, both manual and mechanized. In accordance with this, there is a wide variety of tools for working with a tree, some of which were invented for many more centuries to our era. Even then, humanity estimated this material.

Types of work with a tree

The first type of processing can be considered the cutting of wood, it can be started from it. The tree must be cut, then peel on the boards or bars. At the same time, three types of cutting are distinguished: cutting into the end, in which cutting across the fibers, cutting along fibers and cutting across the fibers, for example, for the manufacture of veneer. Each operation exists their types of tools.

Further, according to the technology there is a marking of wood, in which they try to maximally use the workpiece with the smallest amount of waste, to take into account the thickness of the cut, so that the workpiece does not spoil. For this operation there is a very large number of tools that allow you to make marking of accurate and noticeable on wood.

Drainage of wood is mainly used for individual processing of the workpiece before further processing, for example, the logs or edges of the boards from the crust. The only tool for this work is an ax. True, for different work he has a different blade.

Next, the board is placed in order to remove roughness after dusting. For this, there are also their tools - for planing along the fibers and across, for profile planing, for stripping from scaling, for sampling of grooves, grooves and similar works.

To make a sample of various grooves, nests and make spikes, such an operation is produced as dulling.

If you need in the harvesting of the hole, both deaf and drilled through, with the help of drills produce a drilling operation.

Turning is used to give a round-shaped product outside and inside.

Tools that are used for different types of wood processing

If you are working on a tree, you need to have a set of tools for wood work. If you don't have such a set, but you decided to do a carpentry business or other woodwork, you will have to buy such a woodworking tool in a set or, as the experience says, one tool for its need.

Of course, if possible, you need to give preference to tools with an electric motor, it is clear that the cutting with a manual jigsion can beat off the whole interest in the work.

When choosing a tool that you need to pay your attention first is on the quality of the tool. The tool must inspire confidence and this applies to both manual and mechanized. It is advisable to choose the tool itself, especially the one you will enjoy constantly. It should be held in his hand, appreciate the convenience. As for the you choose a tool, manual or with an electric motor, to solve you. If you enjoy them often, take uniquely electrical, manual can be taken if the work is episodic.

Tool for carpentry woodwork

The very first tool that can be said is an ax. Although it is not pictures, but as it was written above, this is a tool for primary processing. And at the stooler and the carpenter he should always be available.

Next, choose a saw for cutting wood. If you have done work manually, choose a manual saw or hacksaw. The two-handed saw you hardly need. When choosing, you need to turn to her teeth. The less tooth, the better the quality of the cut, but the less the speed of work. Here you choose to you, but it is desirable to have a set of several hacksaws, universal, with teeth for transverse cut and for longitudinal cutting.

For planing or stripping the surface, as well as for bringing to the final size, we will not manage without branches, which should also be somewhat: for tracing work and a foam with a single or double blade. They are made of metal or wood. A tree for the housing can be birch, a beech, pear, a maple, a hub. Grab is very solid, it is used more for the sole.

The varieties of the handbanks are so much that everyone can hardly apply at home, although true lovers may well collect them. So: the planer with a single blade, a twin blade shutter, shropel for roughing, fuganoks for final processing, semi-cell, grinding, cycle for the cycle of parquet, Gorbach (for planing of concave and curved surfaces), Zenzubel for sampling quarters, sampling folding , ShpunterTubel for sampling of grooves, soilbeller for scrollings, cinubel for sweeping for lining. You can do the electrical plans with interchangeable nozzles, which, if desired, can be made by yourself.

For hollowing out holes, recesses, especially in the manufacture of furniture use chisel. For more accurate machining, these are used or cutters, it is advisable to buy them in the set. They can also do car thread.

Good set of chisels on wood

A set of good chisels is the pride of every master, they are carefully picking up for work, followed by whatever they lay the embankment that the blades would not be fascinated.

Using chisels in work

Tools such as cutters for wood work, buy in the online store is unlikely rationally, only if you have already used the same set and want to expand it.

Stuslo is used to cut the blank at an angle. It is just such a device with slots at different angles.

For work, you also need to have a workbench for the clips of the workpiece and giving it the right position in space. It can be both purchased and manufactured independently.

Well, a set of a plumbing tool, along the type of passatia, round-rolls, clamps, drain, carpentry pencils.

Use of electrical instruments

If you use the power to work to work, for example, a tracing saw, most models have a rotation function for the production of cutting at an angle. Then such a tool, like a stub, will not be needed. The same can be said about the electric drill. A special device allows you to drill under the angle that is needed by design.

As already mentioned, the electrolybiz significantly facilitates work, especially if you need to cut a curvilinear perimeter.

Wood saw saw, depending on the power and, accordingly, from the diameter of the disk, you can cut a sufficiently large thickness of the blanks.

Electrolakes are also selected by power, size and additional parameters depending on which works are planning to perform.

Grinding machines work well in final finishing, but in truth, it is better to use a hand tool for furniture.

But the mill for the manufacture of various products of complex forms is simply necessary.

Work manual milling

However, like a small lathe. Very often you can find a small lathe in your home workshop, for example, the lathe JET JML-1014i. There are other models, but on this less good reviews and the country - the brand holder - Switzerland.

Turning tabletop on wood JET JML-1014i

If you work for the manufacture of products of various rounded shape, you will have to buy a tool for turning on wood. These are lathes having a different shape. Like the cutters for manual cutting, the turning cutters each wizard picks up for himself, he caresses the blade of the cutter at his discretion, something can redo. Typically, the cutters are divided into two types: a reireer for roughing and macel for finishing.

The remaining types of incisors are called shaped and their form depends on what surface and how difficult they will process.

Turning cutters for woodworking

The tool for turning on the tree constructively consists of two parts: the working part, it is made of metal, and the handle that is made of wood. The working part consists of a shank, body (main part), cutting part or blade.

Tools for work on a tree are not enough, so the online store for their purchase, at least most of them be a good way out. Although some non-standard tools are better to buy personally.

Finally, I would like to show the photo tools for woodwork.

Set of forged chisels for hollowing holes and grooves

Tree cutter

Plantok Faltsgel for sample processing

Plancock - Zinubel