How to glue paper to plastic. How to glue cardboard to cardboard and other materials

Often in everyday life or in the manufacture of furniture we have to glue various materials. In the carpentry and furniture business, the skills of the master in this type of work play a large role.

The quality of bonding depends, first of all, on the preliminary treatment of the surfaces to be bonded. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, residues of old glue or paint, the surface must always be dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or a file.

When bonding metal, porcelain, glass stone and some other parts, it is necessary to degrease them first by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing them. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab soaked in gasoline, acetone, and a solution of drinking soda soaked in a solution of ammonia.

When bonding various materials, several rules must be observed: apply glue to the surface only with a thin layer, but so that there are no missing places. The glue should be without any impurities (sawdust, dust, and so on) and a uniform consistency, that is, it should not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not at all contribute to a stronger bonding. According to the instructions, some types of adhesives should be heated before use. We would advise you not only to heat the glue itself, but also to heat the glued materials. Then the bonding strength will increase.

As a rule, bonded parts are dried in heat not lower than 18 ° C. Details should be pressed tightly against each other using a press, oppression or vice.

When gluing wood, it is recommended to heat the glued surfaces. It is desirable that the humidity of the parts to be glued is the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. We would recommend dry wood bonding with animals and synthetic adhesives. Animal adhesives include bone and casein. We note right away that preparing bone glue for work requires quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than compensated by its advantages. It is advantageous to apply when a large amount of work is performed. The joints glued with this glue are very durable, which distinguishes it from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. Glued parts withstand a load of up to 60 kg per 1 square. cm, which is several times higher than other glues. And finally, you can store tiles of dry carpentry glue for an unlimited time, they practically do not deteriorate.

To prepare joiner's glue should be in a special glue maker. The glue machine consists of two tin vessels, one of which (wider) is filled with water, and glue is poured into the second (smaller) and placed in the first. The pastry machine can be successfully replaced with ordinary cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) does not allow the glue to burn and can hold heat for a long time. To weld bone glue, first break dry glue into small pieces and fill it with water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then set to boil. To prepare liquid glue for 4 parts by weight of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. Glue should be heated, stirring, so that the entire mass turns out without clots and grains. Do not bring the glue to a boil, this may reduce its stickiness and resistance. The readiness of the glue is determined by dipping a stick in it.

The glue is ready if it flows off the stick slowly, in a thick, even stream. If the glue during cooking is too thick, you can dilute it with hot water. When working, hot glue is used, if it has cooled slightly, it can be heated in a water bath. Do not immediately brew a large amount of glue. Brew as much as you need to do the work; reheating an already frozen adhesive degrades its properties. In the preparation of bone glue, you can also give it refractory properties. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and boil it in a glue maker until a thick composition is obtained, then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil again. An increase in the stickiness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the adhesive at a rate of 25: 2.

When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of water at room temperature and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. The glue powder should be poured into the water gradually, constantly stirring until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. The finished mixture will first be thick and set aside for some time to liquefy. You do not need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should drain from the stick with a continuous stream, leaving a thin shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue does not heat up, since at temperatures above 40 ° C casein coagulates and loses its adhesive properties. Glue powder can be prepared at home, provided the necessary components. The glue contains 7 parts by weight of dry casein in powder and 1 part by weight of borax (sodium boric acid).

To prepare glue from such a powder, you need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour casein with cold water in a 1: 1 ratio and let stand for 3 hours. Dissolve borax in hot water and fill in the swollen casein with the resulting solution. Stir continuously until a sufficiently thick homogeneous mass is obtained. Details glued with casein glue are kept under pressure for 4 hours, but finally the glue dries out only after 12 hours. The big advantage of casein glue is that it can glue wood of high humidity. Wood can also be glued with other glues, for example, synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses, carefully read the proposed instructions.

Sometimes it is required to stick plastic, leather, dermatin, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film on a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood with casein or synthetic wood glue. You can also glue plywood and tiled wood glue, but it forms a noticeable dark seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood, as it may shrink. With a layer of glue, better cover the surface of the wood, and then lay a plywood sheet on it and press firmly on top with yoke. The pressure should be about 8 kg; it should lie under oppression for about 7-8 hours.

To glue the plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. It can be such adhesives as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, "Elastosila-2". Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of wood or plastic.

Clean the wood from dust, and process the back of the plastic with sandpaper until the plastic becomes a little rough. Work corners and edges especially carefully. Then wipe the treated plastic surface with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply glue in a thin layer on both glued surfaces and connect them. Pressing the plastic firmly to the tree, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze all the air out from under the plastic, and then put something heavy on the plastic so that the oppression is evenly distributed over the whole glued surface to be at least 4-5 kg \u200b\u200bper 1 sq. . see. Leaves oppression for half an hour. Such bonding is finally hardened during the day.

Use glues: Oak, Unicum, BF-6, Polyvinyl Acetate to glue fabric, leather, leather substitutes to the wooden base.

Also at home, with the necessary components, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive. To do this, you will need 400 g of wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix dry components, fill with water and put on low heat, or even better, use a gluing machine. During the preparation of the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically so that lumps do not form. As soon as the glue begins to thicken, it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive is uniform. This glue is used only when hot. Leather and leather substitutes (without a fabric base) degrease synthetic films with acetone gasoline. Fabrics do not need pre-treatment before gluing. Glue both surfaces, glue them and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until it dries.

It is better not to adhere fabrics and synthetic films with the BF-6 and Polyvinyl Acetate adhesives, since the BF-6 adhesive can shine through the front surface and stain the fabrics in yellowish color. Glue "Polyvinyl acetate" is destroyed by the action of water.

Metal parts are best glued to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Pateks, Elastosila-2. If you need to glue small metal objects (hooks, shelves) to a wooden surface, we would not recommend using the first three of these brands of adhesives. These adhesives form the so-called "creeping seams", that is, under the influence of loads, a metal object will move off a wooden surface. Before gluing, file the metal surface to roughen it, and then degrease with gasoline or acetone. On both surfaces to be glued, apply a thin layer of adhesive, clamp the parts in a vise and leave for a few minutes. Finally, the glue will dry in 10-12 hours.

To glue smooth surfaces, use the same adhesives "Elastosila-2" glue.

On glue surfaces previously degreased with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue and leave for one hour. After that, wipe the surfaces with a swab dipped in acetone and connect them. Clamp the glued parts for 4-5 hours in a vice. Finally, the glue hardens in 10-12 hours.

Glass is most often glued with adhesives such as Polyvinyl Acetate, Mars, Supercement, BF-2, Pateks, Unikum. These adhesives form practically colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and allow it to dry a little within 10 minutes. Put the second layer and in 2-3 minutes connect the stuck together details. Details for 20-30 minutes should be firmly pressed against each other. The glue completely hardens only after a day.

To glue glass and metal together, take “Adhesive-Sealant”, “Elastosila-2”, “Unicum”. Degrease both surfaces, grease with glue and clamp the parts in the clamp for 30 minutes. The glue finally hardens and becomes waterproof after three days.

You can glue glass to the tree, as well as glue fabric or cardboard on it with glues PVA, PVA-A, Polyvinyl Acetate. Degrease the glass with acetone, grease the surface with glue and put the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.

At home, for bonding metals, BF-2 or Epoxy glue is used. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust, sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces with clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone. Apply glue on the surface with a thin layer and leave it for an hour. Then place the greased blanks in the oven, heated to 50-60 ° C, and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it begins to dry out (it stops sticking to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vice and dry in the oven at a temperature of 130-150 ° C for 1-2 hours. In cold drying
fully hardens only after 2-3 days.

Epoxy glue is irreplaceable in some cases. It consists of two resin and hardener components.

Using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is toxic; if hardener gets on your hands, remove it with a swab dipped in acetone, and then rinse your hands with running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl with hot water, but not higher than 30 ° C. Mix the warm resin with the hardener in the ratio specified in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as well as others.

Also read in this section:

Warming
All about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here is how to make the attic warm, what materials to use. All about the methods and technologies of warming houses, cottages, basements. You can calculate the material consumption.

Materials for insulation
How to correctly select materials for thermal insulation work, in what proportions to prepare a cement mortar for walls, how to insulate a country house. Recommendations will help to stop the choice on the materials possessing fireproof and low heat-conducting properties.

Useful repair tips
Housewives tips on cleaning the apartment, cleaning carpets, furniture care. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly eliminate blockage in the kitchen or restore broken enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.

so that the paper does not wrinkle or spoil tightly.
i tried PVA - more reliable snot.
Superglue does not fit. There is some kind of component that spoils the paper.
What other suggestions?

unfamiliar words, sorry .. on free sale?
Are Arguments Sold?

And clerical - what is it? Normal, which was used in childhood?

Well, silicate.
Or, in Argument, they’re selling lipstick, maybe they’ll just stick

Type of lipstick - is it glue stick?
Will they take it?
I was just struck by the PVA effect .. I tried it - this bitch stained the paper + when it dried, the paper flew off almost by itself

\u003e They will take?
I do not know, whenever it was necessary, glued with superglue.

not, about the quality of superglue - so he even sticks his fingers together - he nevermind. But he has some crap there, and when you glue the paper, it turns out to be one solid greasy stain.

any glue will infiltrate the paper. Deal with it. For strong bonding to plastic (excluding polyethylene, polypropylene and teflon), Moment glue, nitrocellulose glue, epoxy glue are suitable.

sand the plastic before applying glue, should help

what about this option:
glue a layer of paper onto the plastic mass with superglue - the effect of the brand spot will be reflected on the layer + the surface will change. And then with the usual glue (the same PVA), glue what is needed. So a ride?

listen, I need to stick plsmass to shiny paper. Can you help?

What about double-sided adhesive tape or glue for gluing ceilings (it is transparent, glues any materials, I just forgot the name), the last glued demobilization form, held on with a bang.

Stick paper tape on plastic. and to it paper ordinary glue for paper))) everything ingenious is simple)))

screensaver - thanks a lot for the idea.

for the idea of \u200b\u200bsticking one paper first and then what you need, I already broke my head

The paper does not spoil the glue the moment the crystal after drying is flexible but smells very much and has not tried on large surfaces but it sticks normally to the paper buttons

a source

In this thread 5 replies, 3 members, and the latest update Vladimir listok 03/22/2010 | 11:05.

Hello gentlemen!
There is a task of the following kind, the customer gave a paper card printed on an inkjet, to the touch of about 90g / m. The card should lie under transparent acrylic at the back of the PVC card and all this sandwich in Nelson, everything has been assembled, but the card under the acrylic goes in waves, what kind of glue can it be glued to the PVC so that it does not soak? Tape tried to see the stripes. Thanks in advance!

There is 3 M glue in the 77th cylinder, it will perfectly cope with the task.

In order not to bother those who have come across vector topographic maps of Russia. Where can I find?

Orabond (double-sided tape). The best results when rolling in a cold laminator, but more than once were simply rolled with a squeegee. The trouble is, if one of the card sizes is more than a meter ... though, if my memory serves me, I met him somewhere and with a width of 1.26 meters.

In the presence of was only 3M-75th glued like holds

Aha 75 also glues, only 77 more powerful will be the 75th we fix the sublimation printout on the fabric when the flags are printed.

a source

Is there starch? Dilute with hot water, get a paste and glue. This can even be done with flour.

Is there any garlic? It can also be glued with juice. Even glass.

Scotch? Would it be nice to be bilateral? - Go ahead!

Ordinary oil paint - why not glue?

You can dissolve in film acetone washed with boiling water from the photo layer of the film - get a very good glue.

Polyfoam can be dissolved in acetone.

True, it all depends on WHAT exactly and with what you want to glue.

You can try to glue paper boiled potatoes. Smeared the paper with half-sliced \u200b\u200bboiled potatoes and pressed the sides of the paper to each other, at the very least, but it will hold on.

I don’t know any other means, except for brewing starch.

You can also melt a piece of linoleum, a plastic bag, such combustible materials are melted and glued together.

If there is no glue at hand, but you need to glue something, the glue can be made independently. For these purposes, you need acetone and polystyrene.

We pour into the container, the bowl and add a few foam plastic to it, crumbling it. Gently stir until the foam is completely dissolved and the tractors are formed, an adhesive texture that can be glued.

Here the question, of course, is a little incomprehensible: it all depends on what needs to be glued together. If for example paper or cardboard, then this is elementary. In this case, the usual double-sided clerical tape helps me. It is easy to find in any office supply store. Remove the protective layer and voila, you have as many as two adhesive sides. Holds up great.

You can also fasten paper with a stapler, paper clip or potato starch, for example.

a source

Plastic products are widespread in everyday life. If they break, you need to know what glue for plastic will be needed for repair. So that the bonding result is durable and safe, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the types of plastic and the rules for selecting the adhesive composition.

Since some adhesives may not fasten but dissolve the plastic, it is recommended to study the marking on a broken product. An icon with a plastic type looks like a triangle formed by arrows (a recycling symbol). Inside it there are numbers from 1 to 7, and below there is an inscription. According to these identification marks, the material belongs to one or another type of plastic, which will allow you to choose the right glue.

What types of plastic exist:

1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. Food packaging for liquid products is made from it.
2 (HDPE) - high density polyethylene, designed for the production of packaging and shrink film.
3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. Plastic windows, linoleum, etc. are made from it.
4 (LDPE) - low-density polyethylene; toys for children, pipes, bottles, and packaging are made from it.
5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. It is used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
6 (PS) - polystyrene. Disposable dishes are made from it. Foamed polystyrene is widely used in construction.
7 (O) - this type of plastic is not recyclable, consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, foil.

Glue second

The main difficulty is that the labeling of the adhesive does not coincide with the symbols of plastic recycling.

How is adhesive for plastic labeled?:

PE - polyethylene;
PC - polycarbonate;
PP is polypropylene;
PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
PMMA - organic glass;
PUR - polyurethane;
PA 66 - polyamide.

Sometimes it’s easier to find understandable instructions in Russian than a marking icon. But if there are no recommendations on the package, then the designations will help to make the right choice.

Plastic is characterized by low adhesion due to smoothness, therefore it is more difficult to glue it than other materials. In industry, such products are fastened by welding. At home, this method does not apply, but you can pick up a good glue. The principle of action of the composition is this: it dissolves the surface, and with strong compression, the parts are connected. Therefore, the main component of the adhesive for plastic is the solvent of synthetic polymers. For viscosity, the composition contains liquid polystyrene.

Liquid glue for plastic and plastic moment

The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:

Hot glue. Represents solid glue sticks. They must be heated before use. There are special guns for convenient application of hot melt glue, there are also types of glue for use without a gun. Such a composition is suitable for small jobs, as it does not have a special connection strength.
Contact. It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can firmly glue the plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. Personal protective equipment must be used. For better fastening of parts after applying the glue, wait 10 minutes, and only then firmly squeeze them.
Liquid glue for plastic It is made on a water basis and is considered the least effective way of bonding. It dries for a long time (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subjected to increased loads. But liquid glue samples do not deform the plastic, it is very important for working with small parts.
Reactionary - A reliable and affordable version of the adhesive for plastic. There are several types of such compounds: some are designed to work under water, others freeze under the influence of ultraviolet light, and others work outdoors. There are one-component and two-component.

3M Scotch-Weld PR100

Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive to glue children's toys.

What can be found on the shelves of construction and hardware stores:

« Momentplastic" - A type of glue that connects many types of plastics. It has a transparent base, quickly seizes and forms a strong connection. It is a waterproof and heat-resistant composition. However, it contains toxic substances and is not used to repair products that come in contact with food or skin.
"Super Moment"- second glue.
3M Scotch-Weld PR100 - epoxy adhesive, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy to use composition.
Cosmofen is a brand offering several types of glue for plastics. Among them, adhesive-sealant for transparent plastic, composition Plus for PVC PMMA - glue for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
« Second"- superglue for hard plastics. One of the fastest action compounds.
For minor car repairs, special automotive sealants for plastic are sold.
Rexant - hot glue, available in the form of rods. It can be transparent or color (to mask joints if colored parts are connected).
Akfix HT300 - heat and water resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive sealant contains silicone. It reacts to moist air.

This is not the whole range that the adhesive industry offers. This is not to say that some kind of glue is better or worse. Each composition is designed for specific types of work. Read the instructions carefully and follow all the recommendations.

Rexant and Akfix HT300

The type of plastic is installed, the necessary glue is selected. How to glue plastic objects:

Parts should be cleaned. If necessary, the object is degreased with a soap solution or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has greater adhesion, and objects will be easier to adhere.
It does not hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them. So glue is better taken.
Two-component compositions are kneaded only after preparation of the surfaces.
If the parts are covered with glue with a brush, then an object with artificial bristles is taken.
The adhesive is applied in such an amount that when compressed, its excess does not come to the surface.
It is necessary to compress objects among themselves firmly, but accurately.
The duration of adherence to the materials depends on the adhesive selected.

Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.

Sometimes you need to attach a variety of materials to plastic: wood, glass or metal. In this case, the adhesive must take into account the features of the two surfaces to be joined, and not just plastic.

Clay Super moment

Work tips with plastic:

For outdoor use waterproof glue is used.
Despite the high temperature that the adhesive can withstand, plastic objects themselves should not be exposed to it.
When working with contact adhesive, ventilate the room.
The best adhesive for marking 7 (O) is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
If there is no marking on the product, then proceed from this: for plastic toys and artificial glass, mainly polystyrene is taken; for bottles, buckets and boxes suitable adhesive designed for polypropylene and polyethylene.

Take the time to study the labeling of plastic products and glue. If the repair of small toys such as "Lego" is a simple process, then for more serious work, the "Secunda" glue familiar to everyone may not work.

a source

Garlic juice. True smell ..
Well, a torn bill can be sealed up) Anyway, then give it back
Colorless nail polish (not always suitable, but you can stick a photo)
Yeah, starch paste is also gut, And get starch - by rubbing potatoes on a juicer, pouring a basin of water and letting it settle for a bit. He will be at the bottom

stapler)
wallpaper glue)
snot)))
corrector)

cook starch yes thicken

sugar syrup, starch, yes.

Nail polish, paints (not very diluted with water), putty, some kind of sweet syrup.
In extreme cases, there is tape and snot / drool 😀

Maybe egg white? Or soap, or flour paste.

No need to be wiser with any epoxy! Then remove the glue with her hemorrhoids, because very sticky, tenacious and viscous.

Take PVA glue marked D3 (or D2, as a last resort). This marking indicates the class of water resistance. Number 3 is the most affordable and is placed on construction glue intended for external (!) Installation of parts. Such glue is the most durable and absolutely waterproof, transparent. Do not take any PVA from the “moments”, because they tend to burp and are rotten in quality (checked more than once). Take from firms Pufas (best of all), Krass (very good).
Bonding places need to be sanded to clean wood from varnish and paint, old glue. If you doubt the final strength of the connection, then after gluing on the reverse side they are drilled with a thin drill and, through both parts, put a thin wooden pin on the glue (from a toothpick or a confectionery wooden skewer (thicker)). Remove excess glue immediately, as soon as it slightly thickens, with a dry wooden sliver.

P.S. If you nevertheless choose an epoxy, then take the one that is conveniently mixed in small tubes 1: 1. Do not take the one that says "for gluing metal", because it is gray, not transparent. Excess resin should be removed immediately with acetone. It will be difficult to remove it later. In any case, before finishing gluing, make a probe on which you do not mind.

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Dear friends, I again have a question for the audience, "because you know everything." It’s not that I didn’t know how to glue paper. 🙂 But progress is moving forward, the market is littered with a million grades of glue, and the challenge is serious.
Imagine some kind of postcard like this:

Paper - 300g. On it is a glossy print with a plotter. those. the surface is quite smooth. And this card, ideally, will be opened and closed several times in life, i.e. they will move it, and I would like it to not fall apart from this.

Read also: How and how to glue stones for an aquarium

In this postcard, I specially designed everything so that large planes stuck to the ride. But when somewhere it is necessary to glue a very small “tuck” (and the gluing plane - some 5 mm, and at the same time there is some tension, and this place will be subjected to some kind of load) it falls apart with even greater readiness.

I have children's books, so voluminous, which will soon be 30 years old. And they still didn’t fall apart (apart from the places that the children had just torn off with their hands). That's what they were glued to?

For me, by far the most reliable glue is the good old PVA. He, if he dries and grabs, holds tight. But it has two drawbacks: if you smear them with a more or less noticeable plane, it can give waves. And when it dries, it releases quite a lot of moisture. Sometimes you put something freshly glued under the press or in the frame, and with a note in a couple of days, it gets from there - wet! Those. it is not so easy to glue and give - it is necessary to dry. Well, that’s okay. I am mostly confused by waves in PVA.

And everyone else. There is a so-called “hot gun” with plastic tubes that melt and stick with them. It supposedly holds well. But the layer is too thick, and it falls off too.
There are all sorts of such sticks, they are often praised. But I don’t believe them either. After some time, everything glued by them safely collapses.

Of course, it would be nice if the glue doesn’t get dirty too much. That's what PVA is good for - it becomes transparent after drying.

Many praise rubber glue. But firstly, he sometimes suddenly gives greasy spots. And secondly, over time, it also erodes and evaporates.

Still there is a normal paste, which seems to be cooked from starch. Here is one:
http://www.manufactum.de/papierkleber-coccoina-p752391/
But he did not convince me either.

Accordingly, the question is: what is the best glue for paper? To keep well. Even if the bonding area is small, but there is some load? And so that there is not much dirt from it (and all sorts of greasy spots). And so as not to worry the paper, all wet. And for a long time. So that in a year or in five it also holds on.

Well, or maybe just someone knows how in industrial production (in printing houses?) They stick together voluminous books and voluminous postcards?

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What do you think, is it possible to glue something without glue? At first glance it seems impossible. Sometimes to the question of one person: “How can I glue this?” One can hear the answer: “What do you want!” Is it funny? Of course, but there is a certain amount of truth to this. How you can glue without glue, you will learn by doing this simple experiment.

What is required:
seven identical wine corks;
a bowl of water.

Experience
Put the cork in a bowl of water vertically - it will tip over on its side. However, a way to make her swim vertically still exists. It is based on a simple physical phenomenon.
Place seven identical wine corks on the table vertically in the shape of a hexagon (one cork in the center, six around it). Now take the whole seven at once with one hand and immerse completely in water (it should moisten the cork from all sides). Then lift the plugs slightly to the surface and gently release.

Result
Corks will float vertically on the surface of the water, closely clinging to each other, as if they were glued together!

Explanation
This “bonding” of plugs occurs due to a physical phenomenon called intermolecular attraction. The fact is that if the smallest particles of substances - molecules - are located very close to each other, they are mutually attracted. In the overwhelming majority of cases, “pushing” molecules of solids to each other so close so that they “stick together” is impossible due to the surface roughness of these objects. However, water (or another liquid) easily fills these irregularities, and as a result the molecules of one cork are attracted by water molecules, which on the opposite side are attracted by the molecules of another cork. For example, a sheet of paper will not hold on a dry window, but if you wet a glass or sheet, then easily.

The principle of intermolecular attraction, for example, is the basis for gluing protective films (also without glue) on the screens of mobile phones and tablet computers. An elastic film is laid on a flat and smooth surface of the glass screen, which adheres firmly due to the attraction between the molecules.

Difficulty: the experience can be performed independently.

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Unlike thin paper, cardboard is a tougher and denser material, so ordinary clerical (silicate) glue can not do this task, especially when it comes to gluing dimensional parts.

PVA is a classic adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of polyvinyl acetate. This composition is successfully used for bonding various porous materials - paper, cardboard, wood, fiberboard, MDF, fabric, etc. Today, PVA remains the most popular adhesive in cardboard modeling.

Suitable for bonding almost all natural materials.

On sale you can find several varieties of this glue: clerical, household, universal and construction.

Choosing pVA glue for cardboard, we recommend that you pay attention to the universal PVA glue, the so-called PVA-MB. It is not as liquid as clerical, and not as rough as building, which is used for gluing linoleum and carpet.

It is most advantageous to buy universal PVA glue in construction stores, where it is sold, as a rule, in large packages (500 g, 1 kg, etc.). As for the shortcomings, it has one PVA glue - after drying, the glued parts warp a little.

Moment Stolyar Express - a modern adhesive from Henkel. Designed specifically for working with wood, plywood, veneer, fiberboard, MDF, cardboard and other natural materials.

It resembles PVA glue in its composition, but it has been improved with special additives that improve the adhesion of the composition and make it more elastic when dried. Glue Corrugated Cardboard this glue is very convenient, since the glue line seizes quickly, excluding the sliding of glued parts.

After drying, the Joiner Express moment becomes colorless, which is important for modeling - glue will not be visible in the seams between the parts to be glued.

Glue for modeling UHU Holzleim Express - quick-setting glue for wood, has a surprisingly high adhesive ability.

It is specially developed by UHU specialists for modeling, performing housework, repairing wooden furniture, etc. It is designed for gluing any wood and wood-like materials in any combination.

Ideally glues cardboard and paper, it is also intended for gluing cardboard with cardboard.

It is irreplaceable when fast setting of glued surfaces is required. After drying, it becomes transparent, resistant to moisture.

Moment Universal Gel - a modern waterproof and frost-resistant express adhesive in the form of a gel, so it does not spread and does not drip.

It retains elasticity after drying, does not warp and does not deform the glued parts.

The Universal Gel moment is widely used in modeling and creativity when it is necessary to quickly and reliably glue wood, ceramics, PVC, rubber, cork, fabrics and other materials.

Ideal for gluing paper, cardboard and corrugated board, including inclined surfaces and surfaces of a large area.

"505" Universal second adhesive - a liquid transparent adhesive composition, similar in consistency to water. Designed for bonding metal, rubber, leather, ceramics, paper, cardboard, wood, plastic, etc.

It is irreplaceable when instant fixing of small details from paper and a cardboard is required at modeling.

Paper (cardboard) modeling is one of the most affordable types of technical creativity, however, when working with cardboard and glue, certain nuances should be taken into account.

In particular, it is necessary to work extremely carefully with water-based adhesives, since when dried, the water “pulls” the material, and the product begins to deform.

To prevent the paper from warping during drying, apply glue with a thin even layer to one of the surfaces to be glued. After that, the parts are joined and ironed so that air bubbles do not form under them.

No need to try to assemble the model quickly, this should be done in stages, only after the frame has completely dried.

When working with glue Moment, safety precautions should be observed, since it is made on the basis of solvents. It is not recommended to inhale its vapors, since they are toxic, after gluing the product should be left to dry in a ventilated room.

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At home or at work, people often face the need to stick paper to cardboard. This situation is well known to office workers, lovers of arts and crafts (modeling from cardboard, scrapbooking, applique or quilling), as well as to most parents who have preschool children or schoolchildren. How to glue cardboard, or by what glue to stick paper to it, is not an idle question, especially considering the different density of these two materials and the weight of the cardboard. To glue paper and cardboard so that this connection is reliable and looks aesthetically pleasing, not every glue can!

Before deciding what is the best way to glue cardboard and paper, you need to find out what characteristic properties such an adhesive composition should have. For the adhesive bond of cardboard and paper to be strong enough, the adhesive should be:

medium consistency (neither thick nor liquid), so that it can be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued, while thinner paper should not warp from excess moisture;
without a sharp unpleasant odor;
environmentally friendly and non-toxic;
colorless upon drying, so that at the place of gluing there is no yellow tint spoiling the appearance;
convenient and comfortable to use.

The adhesive composition for cardboard and paper should have good adhesion with porous materials, and when hardening form a flexible adhesive seam. It is best to choose a ready-to-use adhesive that can be applied with a dispenser or brush.

In today's market there is a wide selection of adhesives that can be used for gluing paper to cardboard. Each of them satisfies most of the properties necessary for gluing cardboard and paper, but has some disadvantages:

silicate glue gives a strong but not elastic seam;
dry glue stick does not warp thin paper, but has poor adhesion;
pVA glue stationery has a large amount of water;
transparent varieties of polyurethane glue form a neat elastic seam, do not warp paper, but have a high cost;
gum arabic, which is a resin of dried acacia juice of some varieties, is not ready for use;
a flour or starch paste must also be prepared before use.

The most convenient, inexpensive and reliable glue to use, which can gently and aesthetically adhere paper to cardboard, is PVA glue made on the basis of polyvinyl acetate dispersion. Only for this purpose it is necessary to choose not the clerical option, but its other types, for example:

pVA-MB universal glue;
universal KU or KU-27;
super PVA Moment glue;
pVA wallpaper glue and some other varieties with a lower water content.

It is PVA glue that is the most common and popular for gluing paper and cardboard.

To glue the paper to the cardboard as evenly as possible with PVA glue, you must:

apply a thin layer of glue on one of the glued surfaces;
gently lay their friend on top of each other, and smooth by hand, removing air from under the paper;
put the product to be glued under the press for 15 minutes;
allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.

For neat bonding of cardboard and paper, buy high-quality glue from trusted manufacturers - such as our company Concord ChMP!

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Decoupage workshop on wood: Implantation of a laser printout on a nail polish remover.

Workshop on aging of wood and implantation (implantation) of napkins. The author - Zhukova Marie.

Feathering in decoupage. http://www.decoupage-k.com.

“Beauty is in the Details” by N. Rodin At the webinar: Decoupage and decor: famous classic ave.

IMITATION OF METAL HOW I SEE HER Y. IMITATION OF METAL HOW I SEE HER Ya Margarita Tsybato.

Useful tips (what, how and what to glue)

Before proceeding with the direct gluing of the motif to the surface, the surface must be treated so that the motif holds better and the product itself would look like a finished job. The surface can be different: wood, plastic, glass, porcelain (dishes), metal or cardboard. In each case, surface preparation is different.

Wood:before sticking the motive, the tree should be primed with a primer on the tree and preferably painted with acrylic paints (1 layer if you then have a whole motif or several layers if the motives on the surface are selected selectively).

Plastic:before sticking to plastic, it must be degreased with an alcohol solution, for example, and then coated with dissolved PVA glue or a special primer for plastic, this will help the motive to better stick to the plastic.

Glass:before gluing the motive degrease with alcohol or vinegar.

In the process of decoupage on glass, you may encounter such a problem as loss of brightness and contrast of the napkin pattern. This is because the glue makes the base of the napkin a bit transparent. So, if the chosen motif contained pastel tones and delicate color transitions, the picture after gluing will change, the colors seem to fade before our eyes. There is a way out of this situation and it is quite simple. However, it is suitable only if you glued the napkin face down. So, we take the decorated surface with a glued decoupage napkin and paint over the entire paper surface with acrylic paint (preferably white). Turn over - and oops! the colors are back again.

Read also: How to peel off a sticker without traces of glasses

China:the procedure is the same as with glass.

Metal:before gluing to this surface, the metal should be treated first with a rust neutralizer, then a primer should be applied to the metal, and then painted with acrylic paints.

Cardboard:before gluing the motive, the cracks in the cardboard can be varnished and the cardboard should be sanded and painted with acrylic paints in 2-3 layers.

Difficulties in working with a cardboard surface arise due to its deformation when working with paints diluted with water. To prevent this from happening, the surface must first be primed.
This can be done with gypsum diluted with water to a pasty (but not liquid!) State. In this case, it is more convenient to apply it with a dense dry sponge or brush. After complete drying (you can speed up the process with a hairdryer), the surface is treated with fine emery paper, achieving smoothness of the gypsum-coated surface, and after that they start decorating.
You can also process cardboard special. primer on wood and cardboard, apply with a spatula / palette knife or a flat brush with 2-3 layers with intermediate sanding.
And another way to protect cardboard from deformation is to primer it with varnish.
If you are decorating a glossy box, then you need to sand it before priming. If there are holes in the cardboard, they can be “removed” with a papier-mâché mass and then primed.
If you have a cardboard box with a hinged lid, you need to glue the bend with rubber glue so that the paint does not crack and fly off at this point.

Operating procedure.
If we work with a wooden surface, first you need to sand it and apply a primer, which can be used as an acrylic paint of a suitable color.

Cut the pattern you like from a napkin. Next, we separate the two lower layers of paper - we only need colorful - and apply it to the surface.

Apply a thin layer of varnish with a brush, smoothing the napkin and making sure that there are no bubbles under it. After drying (drying time, see the label), apply another layer of varnish.

If we apply a pattern to textiles, it is necessary to cover the napkin with several layers of textile glue. After drying, the fabric with a pattern can be gently ironed with a warm iron through a cloth.

A ceramic product must be burnt in the oven three days after drawing. To do this, put the item in a cold oven, heat it to 140-150 degrees, hold for half an hour and turn it off. It is necessary to leave the product in the oven until completely cooled.

Smooth surfaces must be degreased with alcohol before gluing motifs.

The lighter the soil, the brighter the pattern looks on it and vice versa - the use of the dark color of the base makes the picture seem to dissolve. These properties can be used to achieve various decorative effects. Acrylic paints are best suited as a primer.

How and how to glue?

Here I will try to talk about what means can be used for gluing in decoupage. And I will share the methods that I know.

I glue on PVA glue. I have PVA furniture, imported, Italian.

Pva There are two types:

Furniture (carpentry). You can buy in the construction market. I strongly recommend buying only import options, because something yellow is added to our domestic one. Our glue must be defended, this yellow oily liquid should be drained and only then used. If it is not defended, then over time yellow spots will appear on the product, in those places. where the glue was applied.
Clerical. Sold in any stationery store in small volumes.

before embarking PVA must be diluted with water !!

I dilute about 1: 4, that is, one part of the glue, and four parts of water. Although it is also not always the case, if the picture is denser, then I dilute it less, to the consistency of approximately kefir, and if for a napkin, I dilute it like baked milk .

I still tried glue on varnish, ordinary acrylic water-based varnish. This method is indispensable when the picture is very dense or very glossy. For example a photograph.

Can also glue stick, for egg white. I haven’t tried, I can’t tell anything. If you are interested in non-standard methods, you will find answers to these questions on needlework forums.

Now, how to glue?

For gluing dense picturesno tricks exist. Cut out the motive, put in water for a short time, take it out and pat it with a towel. Smear the picture with glue, apply it to the surface, roll it with a roller (or just a roll of adhesive tape) or press it with your hands, a cloth, anything you like, just to there are no air bubbles under the picture. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

And here sticking napkins without folds, this is a whole science :))) And I hope you will contribute to this matter :)) I know several ways, and I use them, depending on the situation.

The puddle method.

This method is suitable for both small and large motifs. I am a supporter that it is better to swell glue than not to swell :)) In general, I use this method almost always. It consists in the fact that:

Take a napkin, cut out the motive, put it on the place where you want to glue it .. Take the container with the diluted PVA, dip your fingers there, glue on them and plop it on the motive. With gentle movements, smooth out the cut out picture. Where it is not smoothed out, some wrinkles have formed, add more glue and disperse it all .. when smoothing, the excess glue you will drive over the edges, remove it with a damp cloth.

After that, I take a soft damp cloth, and with soaking movements I go through the entire glued area, removing, if I have left, the excess glue and removing the remaining folds (where without them :))

If the motive is not very small or it is a whole napkin, then the diluted glue is applied to the middle (straight from the can) and from the middle in a circular motion, the napkin is straightened. I hope that the explanation is generally understandable, in the near future I undertake to take off a master class .. in the basics.

Bonding with plastic file

An indispensable method for gluing whole napkins and large fragments. It is also ideal for gluing small but very capricious napkin motifs.

And indeed, honestly, ideal for everything, very easy to use. Read the instructions for this method.

Ironing

As I said, there are napkins that are simply unrealistic to glue entirely on diluted PVA. My napkin was used on backgammon and the Savannah box. As soon as glue got on it, it started to creep in all directions and divide into many small fragments.

In this case, it is necessary to smear the surface with diluted PVA and leave to dry. Then, on a dried PVA, a napkin is applied, paper is placed on top of the napkin and ironed with an iron. Then the top is neatly covered with a thin layer of varnish, I try to smear the first layer with a semi-dry brush so that the varnish dries immediately without lifting the napkin. If you apply a lot of varnish at once, then the napkin can rise and wrinkle in some places ...

We will stick half a napkin. Remove the bottom layers. Spray varnish on a napkin evenly at a distance of 20 cm.

We put the napkin on the ironing board, cover it with paper and iron it well.

Now it sticks easily and without wrinkles. The already glued part is shown here. Glue the napkin with PVA glue diluted with water 1: 1. Apply glue with a brush over a napkin, gently smoothing to the sides. You can slowly pull the napkin, thereby getting rid of wrinkles. After varnish, the napkin becomes a little elastic.

What can be glued? Everything!

First things first, we decide "what can be glued?" I can answer: "That's it !!". All that you like by drawing, coloring. invoice, etc., including fabric and polyethylene (the last truth, I have not tried it myself, but heard :)))

1. The most common is napkin.

These are not special, decoupage (as they say in some online stores) napkins. These are the usual three or, more rarely, two-layer napkins that we buy in packs in order to wipe our hands. Horror what.)))

In order to stick a napkin, all lower soybeans are separated from it (no matter how many there are). these are usually two layers. Those. leave for the sticker, only the top layer, the one with the picture.

One layer of a napkin is a rather thin paper substance, which, when soaked, will try by all means to crawl in your hands and be sure to fold. This phenomenon is quite easy to overcome, you need to try a little and everything will work out.))

There are napkins of different companies, and in general, already looking at the packaging, an experienced decoupage worker can tell how this or that napkin will behave. There are companies in which wipes, only you put glue on them, they immediately begin to creep, although I have not done anything with it, and have not touched it. And there are napkins, of the company, which you pour on it and carry it on the surface, and here and there, and to her at least henna, not a single hole.

WORK WITH WIPES

Before work, the napkin must be ironed with steam. This is best done not on the ironing board - it is soft, but on something harder, for example, on MDF.

1) became less transparent, and therefore, it could be glued to a darker background,

2) did not crawl in the gluing process,

and also to make it possible to cut out even the thinnest fragments - almost a thread thick - and to make the perforation invisible, you must sprinkle it with either a colorless varnish or a white spray. You only need to cover the napkin with the thinnest layer, otherwise it will simply soak and it can be thrown away.

It is necessary to spray so that only white dust reaches the napkin, in no case droplets. And the dust should “dry out during the flight”. Look at the side of the stream and you will understand how far to spray. Moreover, a small press on the button provokes drops.

The main thing here is to increase the distance to the napkin and not overdo it so that only a slight haze appears on the napkin. Dries instantly.

If we want to get a clear picture, we cut it out of the napkin with scissors exactly along the edge. And if we want such a slightly “messy” background around (sometimes it looks interesting) or if the drawing on a napkin on a white background, then the drawing can be pulled out, slightly moistened. Then the napkin “dissolves”, and the ragged edges are not visible.

Much depends on the background of the napkin. You can precisely select the paint for the background so that it does not differ from the background of the motive. Then the motive can be cut out or torn out with a margin, glued to a white surface, and then painted over the background with a precisely chosen color. If picked up well, the transition will not be noticeable.

When the background of the napkin is very light, you can first color everything, and then stick the motif with a “contour”. But only if the background color matches our paint.

The colorful layer of the napkin, which is used for decoupage, is very thin, after applying the varnish it generally becomes transparent. Putting a napkin on a napkin is not recommended. It turns out messy, the bottom layer shines through. If you need to combine several motifs with one or several napkins in your work, you will have to cut off all parts that go one after the other.

Varnish wipes are coated with any, no special is needed. They are used on a water basis, since they dry faster and do not turn yellow. It is better to varnish the next day, without brushing twice in the same place, which causes peeling and stretching of the napkin.

Not very common, but very dear to me. In order to glue the card, it must first be soaked and removed the entire thickness, so that only a thin pattern would remain. This is done either with a fine skin or rolled up with your fingers. If you decide to try to work with a postcard, I advise you to see a master class on decorating a box with a postcard, everything is explained in detail in it.

5. Magazine clippings

The work is exactly the same as with decoupage cards and with prints, soaked, blotted with a towel, if necessary, we roll up (sand off) the lower layer, and glue it. You can familiarize yourself with working with magazine clippings in this master class.

6. Rice paper.

There are two types of this paper: with a drawing and without.

Working with rice paper is very easy. Due to its uneven texture, one does not need to be afraid of any folds, etc. Just put it, coat it with glue and pat it with a cloth to remove excess glue and you're done ... done.

With undoubted ease of use, rice paper also provides a very interesting background. It can be made of one color, several can be, or you can even try a lot of different colored pieces :))))

How to make "pseudo-paper paper"

If the work is done on a plate (at the back), proceed as follows:

- we smear the back of the PVA plate

- throw on it the petals of flowers, threads, etc. (optional), you can not throw anything

- and this whole thing (not yet dried) is covered with 1 white layer of napkin

- now we roll everything with a pressure roller, folds in this case are welcome.

- then we cover the napkin with a PVA layer mixed with the paint of the shade we wish

- roll with a roller (just in case)

Well, for normal surfaces, the reverse is true. After all, 1 layer of a napkin is also so thin that it shines through like rice paper, and any color can be given, or even several colors at once, and I generally am silent about filling.

If there is no rice paper, it can be replaced with a third layer of tissue paper. The white layer can be crushed, while the creases form, as it were, “fibers”, “veins”. Of course, it will turn out not quite that, but a little bit like.

Floristic feltsold in a flower shop.

This is wrapping paper, it is made of some kind of grass (maybe even an imitation of grass, you can’t understand it by touch), the blades of grass are glued together, so the paper is quite stiff. The material is extremely non-flexible; it forms coarse and poorly glued folds. The overlap also does not adhere very well. You can stick it, but only on a flat surface and with a fairly large amount of glue. Clay all the time flows through this net.

Dear friends, I again have a question for the audience, "because you know everything." It’s not that I didn’t know how to glue paper. :-) But progress is moving forward, the market is littered with a million grades of glue, and the challenge is serious.
Imagine some kind of postcard like this:

In this postcard, I specially designed everything so that large planes stuck to the ride. But when somewhere it is necessary to glue a very small “tuck” (and the gluing plane — some 5 mm, and at the same time there is some tension, and this place will be subjected to some kind of load) it falls apart more readily.

And everyone else ... There is a so-called "hot gun" with such plastic tubes that melt and stick to them. It supposedly holds well. But the layer is too thick, and it falls off too.
There are all sorts of such sticks, they are often praised. But I don’t believe them either. After some time, everything glued by them safely collapses.

Of course, it would be nice if the glue doesn’t get dirty too much. That's what PVA is good for - it becomes transparent after drying.

Many praise rubber glue. But firstly, he sometimes suddenly gives greasy spots. And secondly, over time, it also erodes and evaporates.

Still there is a normal paste, which seems to be cooked from starch. Here is one:
http://www.manufactum.de/papierkleber-coccoina-p752391/
But he did not convince me either.

Well, or maybe just someone knows how in industrial production (in printing houses?) They stick together voluminous books and voluminous postcards?

Friends, all in a good mood! As usual, the topic of this article will also touch on computer topics, but from a slightly different angle. Let's talk about what glue plastic with plastic tightly.

This life hack was found by me on the Internet and applied in practice even at sub-zero temperatures. The person from whom I learned about this method originally used it to glue laptop cases in the area of \u200b\u200bthe screen hinges. Believe me, this is a very loaded part. And the plastic there is such that not a single super glue takes it at all.

But the matter is fundamentally changing ordinary edible salt. Yes, friends, you just need to make an explosive mixture of super glue and salt. You can, of course, try soda, but after looking at the tests, I came to the conclusion that salt is still better:

So, let's start gluing plastic tightly. Only we will show it on an example bumper car which originally tried to glue different types of adhesives, but it was all useless.

First, the damaged area must be shed degreaser. It is clear that due to the specifics of the crack, this did not work out ideally. But nonetheless, as it is. Next, a pinch of fine salt was taken, which was abundantly sprinkled on the "wound":

After that, we use the usual super glue. By the way, by the way, he had never glued the plastic of this bumper. I tried this way and that, there was no result:

But after applying this life hack, the situation has fundamentally changed. Even though the gluing process took place at a temperature of -2, the plastic finally finally glued tightly. Of course, visually the “fault” remained visible, since a lot of salt was swollen:

In general, friends, these are the things. If any of you have already tried this method, please unsubscribe in the comments about the successes and materials that you glued together. That's all for now and until we meet again!

What does marking on plastic mean?

What types of plastic exist:

1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. Food packaging for liquid products is made from it.
2 (HDPE) - high density polyethylene, designed for the production of packaging and shrink film.
3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. Plastic windows, linoleum, etc. are made from it.
4 (LDPE) - low-density polyethylene; toys for children, pipes, bottles, and packaging are made from it.
5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. It is used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
6 (PS) - polystyrene. Disposable dishes are made from it. Foamed polystyrene is widely used in construction.
7 (O) - this type of plastic is not recyclable, consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, foil.

Adhesive marking

The main difficulty is that the labeling of the adhesive does not coincide with the symbols of plastic recycling.

How is adhesive for plastic labeled?:

PE - polyethylene;
PC - polycarbonate;
PP is polypropylene;
PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
PMMA - organic glass;
PUR - polyurethane;
PA 66 - polyamide.

Types of glue

Liquid glue for plastic and plastic moment

The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:

Hot glue. Represents solid glue sticks. They must be heated before use. There are special, there are also types of glue for use without a gun. Such a composition is suitable for small jobs, as it does not have a special connection strength.
Contact. It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can firmly glue the plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. Personal protective equipment must be used. For better fastening of parts after applying the glue, wait 10 minutes, and only then firmly squeeze them.
It is made on a water basis and is considered the least effective way of bonding. It dries for a long time (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subjected to increased loads. But liquid glue samples do not deform the plastic, it is very important for working with small parts.
Reactionary - A reliable and affordable version of the adhesive for plastic. There are several types of such compounds: some are designed to work under water, others freeze under the influence of ultraviolet light, and others work outdoors. There are one-component and two-component.

Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive to glue children's toys.

Product Examples

What can be found on the shelves of construction and hardware stores:

« Moment plastic" - A type of glue that connects many types of plastics. It has a transparent base, quickly seizes and forms a strong connection. It is a waterproof and heat-resistant composition. However, it contains toxic substances and is not used to repair products that come in contact with food or skin.
"Super Moment"- second glue.
- epoxy adhesive, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy to use composition.
"" - a brand offering several types of glue for plastic. Among them, adhesive-sealant for transparent plastic, composition Plus for PVC PMMA - glue for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
« Second"- superglue for hard plastics. One of the fastest action compounds.
For minor car repairs, special automotive sealants for plastic are sold.
Rexant - hot glue, available in the form of rods. It can be transparent or color (to mask joints if colored parts are connected).
Akfix HT300 - heat and water resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive sealant contains silicone. It reacts to moist air.

How to glue plastic

The type of plastic is installed, the necessary glue is selected. How to glue plastic objects:

Parts should be cleaned. If necessary, the object is degreased with a soap solution or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has greater adhesion, and objects will be easier to adhere.
It does not hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them. So glue is better taken.
Two-component compositions are kneaded only after preparation of the surfaces.
If the parts are covered with glue with a brush, then an object with artificial bristles is taken.
The adhesive is applied in such an amount that when compressed, its excess does not come to the surface.
It is necessary to compress objects among themselves firmly, but accurately.
The duration of adherence to the materials depends on the adhesive selected.

Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.

Clay Super moment

Work tips with plastic:

For outdoor use waterproof glue is used.
Despite the high temperature that the adhesive can withstand, plastic objects themselves should not be exposed to it.
When working with contact adhesive, ventilate the room.
The best adhesive for marking 7 (O) is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
If there is no marking on the product, then proceed from this: for plastic toys and artificial glass, mainly polystyrene is taken; for bottles, buckets and boxes suitable adhesive designed for polypropylene and polyethylene.