Homemade plywood folding boats. Homemade plywood boats: materials and tools, drawings and layout, hull assembly, glue work and painting

Hunting and fishing are the favorite pastimes of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod in the early morning in the thickets of reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.

Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, use different ones - rubber, aluminum, PVC boats and even plywood.

You can buy absolutely any boat, if you have money, but how to make a boat with your own hands? We will tell in our article.

plywood craft

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

most important preparatory moment in construction are the drawings of the boat. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to spend time and effort on reworking and fitting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. Transferring the drawings to paper, we will get full-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now you can “cut out” our product, and cut the blanks with an electric jigsaw. Having received all the cut parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect the supporting structural elements, the transom (aft section) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

To connect all parts, use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having fixed the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to reinforcing the angles between the sides and the bottom. Do it with wooden corners, then move on to sealing the seams.

To obtain a suture material, epoxy resin and aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Further, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the whole structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and the bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs to be processed, it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, after drying, sand the surface. Then prime and paint.

Troubleshooting in PVC inflatable boat

If you already have inflatable boat and you actively use it, then for sure there are often moments of leakage due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult, it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and better repair in the workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat in a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, everything must be redone when returning, since a patch glued hastily and without observing the technology will not last long.

If the puncture occurred while fishing or hunting, use only the defect elimination kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

For overhaul boats you need:

Repair kit (included in the package of the boat);
Scissors;
roller;
Pencil;
Solvent that promotes degreasing;
Adhesive brush.

Cut out a round patch from the spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Note!

Flatten the area to be repaired on a flat surface, remove dirt and degrease with a solvent. Put the patch on the hole and circle with a pencil, smear both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and allow time to dry again. After 5 minutes, restoration can begin directly. Feel the surface of the patch with your finger, it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site, a hair dryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the sticky side, and carefully expelling all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then let it dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Note!

DIY boat photo

Note!

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats in specialized stores, the most different forms and sizes, many are still interested in how to make a homemade plywood boat. main reason such interest lies, perhaps, in the indestructible craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Let you buy anything today, but in a home-made boat or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the Fisherman magazine, there is some kind of indescribable charm.

In the article we will give some tips, using which you can quickly learn how to make boats - homemade plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade plywood mini boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out methods for their manufacture, as well as to determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but for the manufacture of small-sized boats with our own hands, we do not need anything complicated:

Plywood is the most main component . For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Separate parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from a thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
In order to provide the sides with sufficient reliability, for sheathing should be used exclusively quality plywood, without cracks, delaminations, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of material of the first or second grade will be higher, but then you will be sure of the safety of your boat.

Wood is used for the installation of internal struts, the design of the sides, seats etc. It is advisable to use an edged planed board made of light wood species.
The suture material is used to connect individual parts cladding in one piece. Seams can be made using a fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
Glue is needed to ensure the seams are properly sealed.. To date, masters have practically abandoned natural compositions based on casein, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and decay. It is also worth stocking up with fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, fiberglass can be used - then the entire bottom and sides will be pasted over with it.

Well, do not forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

Saw on wood.
Electric jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
Sander.
Hand tool(hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
Brushes for impregnation, varnishing and.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before starting work, we determine what kind of vessel we need. Today, on the net you can find a variety of drawings of home-made plywood boats, so nothing is impossible either in building a punt for fishing or in assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, you can do the design yourself.

True, in this case, you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat can turn out to be extremely decorative.

Having studied available projects home-made boats from plywood, or having made our own, we transfer the contours of the main details to paper.
Using paper templates, we draw lines on plywood sheets along which frames and sheets for sheathing will be cut.
If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then it is necessary to splice them. To do this, we cut the ends of the plywood under acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself.

Having attached the beveled parts to each other, we coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called the connection "on the mustache."
In parallel, we prepare wooden bars from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To facilitate the work on the project, you can assemble special goats from bars with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the details on these goats during the connection process, especially if you work without helpers.

Case assembly

When everything is ready, we begin work:

Using a wood saw or electric jigsaw, . The indentation from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not “converge” during stitching.
We glue the transom parts (tailgate) and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. Glued parts will be somewhat heavy, but it's not scary!
If you plan to install outboard motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the self-tapping screws should be such that the point does not pierce the part through and through.

We install the transom on pre-made goats and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together on the bow.
We fasten the sheathing parts either with the help of suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting off the edge of the plywood at an angle.

At this stage, it is very important that all elements converge in size, since in order to reduce the gap, it will be necessary to disassemble the entire structure and partially cut the frames.

After the "rough assembly" you can start gluing.

Adhesive work

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). We mix the components in a 1:1 promotion using a nozzle on a drill. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
We strengthen the corners between the bottom, sides and transom with the help of wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
Strips of fiberglass and fiberglass are glued to all seams from the inside, carefully lubricating the joints with an epoxy-aerosol compound.

Note!
Since the majority adhesive compositions contain volatile toxins, all paintwork must be carried out with the use of respiratory protection!

After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
To fix the frames, we use the same glue. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.

We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten the oarlocks, seats and other parts provided for by the design.
If it is planned to equip the boat with a cockpit ( closed space in the bow), install the cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting until the whole structure dries, we remove the boat from the goats, turn it over and grind the outer surface. Then we process the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloring

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive outer appearance:

First, carefully degrease all the details.
Then we process the wood with impregnation. Here, the composition for sea or river vessels from Tikkurila is quite suitable.
We putty all planes, masking cracks and irregularities, and then we process it with a special primer.
You can paint homemade plywood boats with almost any paint, but if you want to ensure the vessel's durability, it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden boats.

The average paint consumption is 1 - 1.5 l / m 2. It is best to apply it with a brush, but the use of an airbrush is also allowed.

Conclusion

A homemade plywood boat made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family walks, etc. Of course, it is not worth going out to the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for big rivers and lakes of our country, such a design is quite reliable. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Boat made of plastic bottles

Unusual but effective material to create a boat can become commonplace plastic bottles. Since the most the common volume of such containers is 2 liters, the most difficult stage in the design will be the collection of material.

In order to create a "bottle" boat, you will need the following materials:

bottles;
Waterproof tape and glue;
Knife or scissors;
Wire;
Plywood and cross-beams made of wood or metal.

First of all, you need to carefully clean the bottles of stickers and labels. However, the most important thing to do at this stage is give plastic container density and hardness. The laws of physics will help with this. The bottles are placed in the refrigerator, tightly twisted with lids, and then moved to heat. Thus, the air inside the bottles is heated and gives them an elastic shape. For greater reliability, it is advisable to fix the covers with waterproof glue.

Installation of a boat from plastic bottles

Original logs are formed from pre-prepared bottles.

First step― connection of two bottles bottoms. To secure, pull on a plastic ring cut from the middle empty bottle. The whole structure is smeared with glue and tightly wrapped with tape in several layers.

The tops of the next two bottles are cut off, after which the headless plastic is placed on the edges of the workpiece, again using glue and tape. Thus, a reliable and sealed fragment of the future boat is obtained.

The further process consists of repeating the above steps and ends with the manufacture of a log of the optimal size.

One float consists of eight logs, which are connected with strong wire, polyethylene and adhesive tape. Depending on preferences, the number of logs can vary up or down. The most important thing is to maintain balance and make a reliable means of transportation out of the boat.

The floats are mounted using crossbars made of wood or metal. The bottom of the boat can again be created from different material. It can be plywood, plastic or metal sheet.

The final touch in the manufacture of the boat can be waterproof fabric upholstery or finishing with strong plywood with subsequent painting. So the boat will add in reliability and aesthetics.

Plywood boat

In addition to plywood as the main material, to create such a boat you will need:

Electric jigsaw;
Screwdriver;
Saw;
A hammer;
grinding device;
Clamps and brushes;
Wood;

Glue, resins, varnishes, varnishes, etc.

Mounting a plywood boat

The most acceptable option is large-sized plywood without defects in the form of delamination and cracks.

With the help of drawings, an extremely careful markup of the material is made. If the slightest errors and discrepancies are made, making a boat without gaps will become impossible. For tracing plywood, you can use special patterns.

Next, each fragment is cut with a saw and a jigsaw. Special attention is given to the corners of the docking at the ends. The tailgate and frames will require plywood to be installed in several layers to increase strength. If the design of the boat assumes the presence of a motor, then the tailgate supplemented with hardwood and glued with fiberglass.

Frames and transoms are fixed with tin-plated or galvanized screws. The bottom and sides are attached to the transoms with special glue and other materials for seams. It is advisable to strengthen the bottom of the boat with a slatted flooring.

Seams are glued with a special sealant, which includes epoxy resin and aerosil in a 1: 1 ratio. Fillets are stiffeners and are laid in the corners. All internal joints are treated with sealant, after which fiberglass is applied to them.

After drying the entire structure, the frames, flooring on the bottom, seats and other planned elements are installed.

Before painting, all surfaces are degreased and polished, then carefully treated with impregnation for wood. If after all these actions the surface remains uneven and has cracks, a special putty comes to the rescue, and after drying, a primer.

Usually used for painting ship enamel, hard brush or spray gun.

Folding boat made of duralumin

To create a folding boat you will need:

Sheets of duralumin;
rubberized fabric;
Rivets and overlays;
Wood;
Scissors for metal;
Primer and paint.

Installation of a folding boat made of dualuminum

Duralumin is the most profitable material for creating a folding boat. It is light and very durable, while only six elements are needed to create a watercraft: two for the bottom and four for the sides.

There are only three transverse struts in such a boat: one of them is a seat, the other two are struts made of wood with aluminum tubes at the ends. They are inserted into the holes on the inner sides of the sides, which ensures the rigidity and reliability of the structure.

Before starting to assemble the boat according to the drawings, it is recommended to recreate its prototype from cardboard. So it will be easier to eliminate all errors, besides, such cardboard parts will also serve as patterns for duralumin.

All six parts of a folding boat are cut out with metal scissors, then they are fitted and hem. Holes for rivets are drilled in the joints-seams every 2 centimeters. After that, the fragments of the boat are fastened with rivets, which are sealed with paint. Also, the installation of duralumin can be carried out with rubberized elastic fabric.

The gunwale and seats are made from any available wood and mounted with galvanized nails. In the final, the finished boat is primed and painted.

I have long wanted to have a light boat that can be folded into a small package, in which it would be convenient to fish or travel, reaching the most distant and tempting corners of the Karelian Isthmus, in which two people could sit, and even put a couple of backpacks. From what I saw in stores, some did not suit me as purely single-seat (55-ruble “hunting”, for example), others turned out to be too heavy and not suitable for transportation in the same bus. As a rule, they were all cramped, uncomfortable for rowing, equipped with short oars, under which you could not go anywhere even in a light wind.

Finally, the idea of building folding double boat, which met all my requirements, on its own. I made such a boat, and have been sailing on it for six years now. Tourists and fishing enthusiasts who met on the way asked more than once where I bought it? And most often they did not believe when I explained that it was not so difficult to make such a boat yourself. So I decided with the help of the collection to tell about it in more detail and make it available to everyone. (Or maybe some factories will also be interested in my boat?)

The length of the boat is 3 m, the overall width is about 1.1 m. With the total weight of the boat less than 20 kg, its carrying capacity is more than sufficient for going out together with all the equipment. Even with a load of 400 kg, you can safely continue swimming on it, although at the same time it sits in the water up to half the height of the side.

Under two-meter swing oars, the boat has a good speed - 8-9 km / h, it is easy to control; on it you can freely make large transitions. Seaworthiness restrictions are the same as for any other rowing "two". Once I had a chance to test my folding boat on a real sea wave- in the White Sea. In fresh weather, on an 80-centimeter wave, we safely reached the place.

The boat is also convenient for fishing: it easily goes along the reeds, does not sail; stable enough - it does not roll over if you stand up to your full height or even one person sits on the edge of the side.

The boat is assembled in 15 minutes, the same amount of time is spent on disassembly. A fully folded boat turns into a package measuring 1X0.45X0.2 m, stacked on a lightweight three-wheeled folding cart (the wheels fold like an airplane). With such a package, I can get into any transport, it almost does not take up space at home.

Now about how to make such a boat. I collected it on winter evenings, slowly, spending two or three hours every day. Of course, now, having experience and not wasting time thinking, I could do it much faster.

The main material for 12 flat body parts are duralumin trimmings. I used duralumin 0.5 mm thick and I think that this thickness is quite enough; the use of a thicker sheet (0.8-1 mm) will make the boat heavier, although, of course, it will simplify the design and make it more reliable. To mark the mating edges of parts 3-9, 4-10, 6-12, 5-11, make a cardboard template (one template is enough, since the bow and stern of the boat are the same, symmetrical).

(conditionally shown are keel squares placed outside)

increase
1-12 - duralumin parts; 13-15 - keel square, duralumin 30X30; 16 - rubberized fabric; 17 - butt shorty 30X30; L = 200, 2 pieces; 18 - washer-lining in the area of the bolt hole, δ = 1.

Obviously, this pairing could also be done in a straight line, but it would be better if it were a curve with a crescent (deflection arrow) of about 50 mm. If I had to make a second such boat, then I would try to make deadrise in the bow so that the oncoming wave would not hit, and I would make the stern wider and transom - there would be more space and I could hang the Salyut motor.

As waterproof flexible "hinges" connecting duralumin parts, 50- and 100-mm strips of any reliable rubberized fabric are used; I layered a 9mm drive belt into 3mm layers. The transverse wider strips are made whole, the longitudinal ones are split. At the intersection, the joint is made on B88 glue with a "burr" over a length of 25 mm. I spent a lot of time on these connections, but for all six years I didn’t have to use a repair kit (I always have pieces of a belt and glues with me).

a - fixing the side branches of the frame and transverse struts; b - fastening of stem crossbars; in - support cans.

1 - payol; 2, 3 - longitudinal stem spacers; 4, 5 - folding "fenders", duralumin tube Ø18 with a butt hinge lock and a key; 6 - central frame; 7 - nasal transverse strut; 8 - bow bank, plywood 1000X180X6; 9 - aft transverse strut; 10 - feed bank, plywood 1000X180X6; hang on three or four loops to the crossbar; 11, 12 - stem cross member, square 30X30 L = 100 mm; 13 - square 15X25, which rests on the ends of the bank; 6 pcs; 14 - frame position lock along the length of the boat, strap 20x40x2, 6 pcs.

Stripes superimposed on duralumin with outer side"plating", glued to it with the same B88 glue and riveted with aluminum rivets d \u003d 3 with a single-row seam with a step of 15 mm. At the extremities under the heads, riveted everywhere with inside sheathing, washers are enclosed. According to the keel fold in the DP (it was made only in order to reduce the dimensions of the package) on det. 1 from one side and on children. 4-6 on the other, three parts (13, 14, 15) of the keel square are riveted simultaneously with a strip of fabric. When unfolding the skin - assembling the boat, the ends of these parts are rigidly connected by two 200 mm butt plates 17 (sections of the square 30X30) on M8 bolts - two on the side of the joint.

The rigidity of the hull of the assembled boat, in addition to this outer keel, is provided (see the "set" diagram):
- plywood flooring, against the ends of which longitudinal stem spacers rest with their forks;
- central frame;
- "fender bars" along the upper edge of the side;
- nasal transverse strut;
- bow bank for the rower;
- aft transverse strut with a stern bank.

Plywood floorboard, assembled from two parts with a flexible hinge in the middle, is laid freely on the bottom. Along the length, its position is fixed by longitudinal struts fitted in place. In the middle part of the boat, a middle frame is placed on it.

1, 5 - plywood sheets δ=6; 2, 6 - rectangular cutouts - nests for fixing the position of the lower end of the folding rack under the transverse struts; 3 - duralumin socket (shoe) with a shaped groove for fixing the lower end of the rack under the bow can; the position of the can along the length of the boat is selected depending on the height of the rower; 4 - soft hinge (belt, rubber) for folding the floorboard.

The bottom branch of the frame is made of a dural tube, the side branches and struts are made of a 25X25 duralumin square. The connection of the branches on the cheekbones is hinged (rivet) for the possibility of folding. The struts are hinged at one end, and at the other - on a bolt with a wing nut. To attach the frame to the skin, one hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in the upper part of the side branch and a free shelf is cut off; the end of the frame is between the skin and the tube of the fender.

a - central frame; b - transverse strut; c - fastening of the "fender" and the ends of the side branches of the frames; g - longitudinal stem strut.

1 - dural square 25X25 or 30X30; 2 - M8 bolt; 3 - duralumin tube Ø18-20 mm;
4 - sheathing.

On the bow and stern transverse struts, vertical (side) squares and racks - pillars in the DP - are also hinged. When assembling the boat, the entire set is assembled into a rigid system with ten M8 bolts with wing nuts passed through the fender. Two of the same bolts are attached to the sheathing with stem crossbars pivotally attached to the ends of the longitudinal struts.

To make the fenders folding, the simplest loop locks were used. One edge of the loop bent along the tube is attached to one tube tightly, the second is hinged so that the other tube freely rotates around the axis. In the center of the loop there is a hole for the M8 bolt, which fastens the tube to the bead (the nut is superimposed with outside corps). This bolt must be welded to the hinge.

1 - rivet; 2 - hinge axis, around which one of the tubes folds up; 3 - M8 bolt for fastening to the skin.

The cans lie freely on top of the square supports riveted to the sides; to fix the bow can from shifting along the boat, grooves are made in the ends - cuts for the thickness of the shelf. A tubular piller with clamps is placed under the bow can, when the tube is turned, it enters the grooves of the upper (on the can) and lower (on the floorboard) shoes. You can put the same pillers under the stern can.

To one of the tubes of each fender (not closer than 100 mm from the break), a shackle is riveted.

Oars - composite. The oar itself is wooden (the spindle diameter is 35 mm), the blade is made of 1 mm thick duralumin with three stiffening ribs. In the middle of the length, the paddle is folded due to the sleeve connection; during assembly, to fix the connection, it is screwed on union nut.

1 - blade; 2 - brackets for attaching to the spindle; 3 - two parts of the spindle; 4, 5, 6 - details of the connection: bushings fixed at the ends of the spindle, and a freely put on union nut; 7 - oarlock.

L. K. Pressler, "KiYa", 1976

In fishing and hunting shops you can find anything you want, and boats are no exception.

But many people want to make their own watercraft, because it is interesting and inexpensive.

Do-it-yourself boats have a number of advantages over factory options:

Ease of construction. Such a plywood fixture will be much lighter than wooden or metal structures;
Water stability. For such a boat use solid sheets plywood, and its shapes are ideal for launching;
Low cost. You will only need to spend money on plywood pieces, glue, varnish and boards;

To ensure the safety of the structure, you only need to use quality materials. Plywood must be solid, without damage. The price of the first varieties is slightly higher, but reliability is also important.

For people who have a skill in carpentry, the work will be easy. It will take a week and a half, if you make a boat in your free time, then a couple of full days.

But only a professional can do designing with his own hands, because you need to accurately calculate the carrying capacity, capacity, nose shape and other nuances.

Construction assembly

When there are materials and drawings, then you need to start work. The first step is to cut out the details from plywood. For this, it is best to use a jigsaw. It is important to accurately cut to size, otherwise the design will not converge.

Then the frames are glued to the tailgate, these parts will be very heavy. If a boat needs a motor, then the tailgate is strengthened.

The next step will be the fastening of the transom with the sides and bottom. Sheathing parts must be fixed with glue.

After assembling the structure, you need to prepare aerosil and epoxy resin. These substances are mixed 1 to 1. The resulting substance is used to seal the seams. Also for this purpose, inside the boat, the seams are sealed with fiberglass strips.

Important: in such work, very toxic substances, so you need to work outside, or in a ventilated area, and using special means protection.

When the glue dries, you need to put the frames. Then you need to install seats, luggage compartments and other elements. After the vessel dries, it is necessary to proceed to the final stage, this is grinding and sealing with fiberglass and epoxy mortar.

This is followed by the process of painting the structure, this will help to further protect the vessel from the influence of water and give a good appearance.

Painting consists of:

Degreasing of all parts of the vessel;
Processing wooden elements impregnation;
Surface putties. This will mask all defects;
Primers. To do this, you can use boiled drying oil;
Applications paintwork materials. To do this, you can buy any paint, but special paints will help increase the life of the boat. waterproof materials for plywood;

Prices

Building such a craft with your own hands is an interesting and creative activity for people who like to do things on their own. The main thing is to adhere to the dimensions indicated by the drawings.

It is possible that during this process, there will be errors that need to be redone. But, the result is a great and inexpensive boat. It is best to store such a tool on dry land. This boat is perfect for use on calm lakes and rivers.

It is forbidden to go out to sea or raft down mountain rivers. You also need to carefully monitor the seams and the integrity of the structure, if there are problem areas, then they need to be sealed.

With a thrifty attitude and proper storage, such a watercraft will last a long time, and will help you have a great time fishing, or just while walking along the pond.