How to replace a sewer tee. Changing sewer pipes An alternative method of replacing sewers

Bath installation.

What should I do if I don't know how to install bathtubs? Options 2 - ask how, or come up with your own. I chose the second one. And I didn’t just like this option, but very much!

GO!

A frame is required for an acrylic or iron bath. I have thin-walled iron. I wanted plastic, and concrete, but did not have time. As I thought about this frame, it became so sick! Sales designs are somehow lousy and material-intensive. I limited myself to one pipe 20x40 under the edge and two levers.

Continuation of the "balcony is not like everyone else" .

It came to some furniture on the balcony, they didn’t really turn around, so we decided to get by with a couple of pedestals. The furniture makers did their job in principle normally, but there was a nuance that apparently was beyond their power, or there were other arguments. The hostess was satisfied with everything, except for the design of the adjoining countertops to the windowsill. On the one hand, it seems that you can’t do it differently, all the more so the window sill turned out to be bent, on the other hand

Hello brothers in repair! For a long time I didn’t write anything here, and in general I rarely began to come in, everything somehow lacked time: now drinking, now partying, and now a new “attack” has attacked me. But knowing that you, in spite of everything, stubbornly do not forget me, I decided not to be a piglet, and to tell you about my new hobby. I'll start from afar: almost all my conscious life I worked as an electronic engineer, moreover, an engineer-developer of electronic and electrical devices of the widest class and purpose, and at the same time purely in the defense industry. It is clear that the scope of my amateur radio interests was limited only by my laziness, there were simply no restrictions in radio components for me, I had EVERYTHING! Well, following the trends of the then amateur radio fashion, I mainly focus on radios and amplifiers, essno, on transistors and microcircuits. I haven’t been working in this area for a long time, and I threw everything into a landfill for a long time, but in my soul all this time a dream was glimmering - to make a tube power amplifier, and not a simple one, but one that would make everyone gasp. And I must say, at work, most of my time I dealt with electric vacuum devices, radio tubes, if in a simple way, so this topic was well known to me. And then there is this fashion for a "warm tube sound", for which people literally go crazy. In short, a year ago I decided to make my dream come true. I immediately decided: the mainstream, conventional tube amplifiers with an output transformer, are not interesting to me, this is not a royal business! Why not invent a TRANSFORMERless tube amplifier for me. Well, I had a good idea of ​​the difficulties along the way, and I had some of my own thoughts on this matter, but still I decided to consult with the radio amateurs. I found a suitable group on Facebook, began to publish in it myself, and somehow asked a question on the topic: would anyone tell me the circuit of such an amplifier. And they immediately give me a link: http://hifisound.com.ua...a-6s33s-otl/ (I hope I did not violate any Forum rules by providing a direct link here, especially since it is from a completely different area? ). I won’t talk about this scheme, if anyone is interested, I can later explain what’s what, I’ll just say that this scheme immediately interested me, both in its unusualness and in the potential opportunities that I saw in it. Decided to start. And where to start: parts - 0, there is a soldering iron, still Soviet, and a Chinese tester. But, the worst of it is the beginning: I got used to Avito, Ali Express, went a couple of times to the Mitinsky radio market, began to grow into amateur radio junk. ..

Now I’m going, I’ll walk Tinka, and I’ll continue, if you’re interested, already with pictures ...)))

Dear Builders. I would like to know detailed process CORRECT ALIGNMENT walls (reinforced concrete), with a composition such as Knauf ... In this business, I’m a teapot, but I want to make my daughter’s bedroom beautiful, but I don’t have a lot of money to pay professionals for work, and there’s no guarantee that good pros will come across ... So I want to know what and how, and how much a pound is dashing. Thanks in advance for the advice. The walls will be leveled for further painting paint by Sherwin Williams.

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Show something different from the tables on the blog, otherwise I haven’t been for a long time.

Children's theme in recent times I was captured not like a child. Various items were asked to make in the kindergarten.

The first subject, educational, necessary and useful. This is a traffic light, by which children will learn the rules traffic, an archival thing.

I’ll make a reservation right away, they also made a version of the pedestrian with little men, but simpler from cardboard.

In principle, this three eyes were also asked to make a cardboard-simple one, but how can I do it without problems)) I thought, why not make a reliable academic subject right away, and I did. How much is enough.

The concept of the figure is as follows, large enough for everyone to see, stable, durable and with swivel mechanism, the meaning is that there are 4 sides, one side shows all the signals for a general understanding of the device.

The other three sides on one signal, the teacher can turn and show any color from 3 and ask the kids about its purpose.

In general, I thought it would be right

The initial thoughts about color circles on magnets and other light bulbs had to be canceled, we need a simple, understandable solution that is difficult to break, magnet circles can be lost, battery bulbs fail.

I don't know if it worked out, but time will tell.

The whole base is MDF, which glued the pva, for a temporary tack, also fastened it with a micro-pin.

Separately, I note that it is possible to make circles of various diameters on the circular and, most importantly, of the same size, using a non-tricky device, first we cut square blanks, and then on the device, rotating the part, cut off the corners to the polyhedron, and then rotating the part, we add to the circle.

I glued the box, the visors are halves of the eyes of the circles, I made a groove under them with a milling cutter, so such things cannot be reliably glued into the end.

The whole thing revolves on a pipe from the Joker system, in my opinion, for shelving, so that the stops do not fall out and fail, which I fixed with bedbugs.

I made the base massive and wide from thick layers of MDF, with such a base it is not so easy to tilt the traffic light on its side.

I played the fool and drilled through the pipe, I had to slap a plate from the return line.

I painted everything from a spray can, then varnished it, the thing is ready.

I did not paint the signal mugs, they are cut out of self-adhesive paper, so it is easier to update the demonstration item.

Who has read, look at the slides

For a better understanding, a question about replacing a tee without clarification is like asking "how much does food cost?".

I think it will be clearer, the food is different in the case of tees, everything is the same, even more difficult.

1) What floor do you live on? If the latter, the water can not be shut off, if the floors are lower, the cost of replacement includes shutting off the water.

2) What material is the tee made of? Replacing a propylene tee is not % but several times (!) Cheaper than replacing a cast iron tee.

3) Where is the tee located? Replacing a cast-iron tee under a standing sewer pipe is not possible without removing and replacing the toilet, especially if the toilet is installed on the solution.

It is also not possible to change only the tee. you will also have to change the riser vertical pipe.

4) What is the diameter of the tee? If 50-t,

That is a tee for internal sewerage wiring, replacing such a tee is an order of magnitude cheaper than replacing a 110 mm tee.

5) The condition of the sewer pipes (now I'm talking about cast iron)? The fact is that if the sewer pipes are in poor condition, the lateral caulking of the tee from the main pipe is not possible, it will simply crack.

6) How does the toilet go into the tee? If the toilet was installed in the USSR, then usually the neck was walled in forever, replacing a tee for a toilet = replacing a toilet with a tee.

7) Has the riser sewer pipe of the neighbors downstairs been changed? If yes, then when replacing a tee, caulking is not needed, the pipe in the ceiling changes and connects into one with the riser of your neighbors from the bottom, such work is cheaper.

These are just the main questions, without an answer to which even + - a kilometer is not possible to navigate the price.

What is the cost of replacing a sewer tee in Moscow

Replacing a standing sewer pipe, the city of Moscow (along with a tee, of course, but without installing a toilet) the price of the work is 4,000 rubles. Riser pipe and tee, 110 mm in diameter.

Replacement of internal sewer wiring (pipe 50 mm) 3,500 rubles.

One point, a pipe diameter of 50 mm, the cost is 1,000 rubles.

At the end, not much information from personal experience: A large firm will not take on small work, if they do, the price will be exorbitant.

There is no fixed price for many types of work, repairs, the condition of the pipes at the customer, the number of storeys, and so on, all this is very individual, the foreman knows how much he earns per hour (on average) looks at the amount of work (not standard, refers to the standard , replacing a riser, installing a toilet bowl, and so on) estimates how long it will take him to do this work and names the price.

There is a fixed minimum price for small and very small work (change the gasket, tighten the nut, and so on).

Just call the plumbers and describe the situation as accurately as possible (for example, replacing the tee that includes the toilet, or replacing the tee under the sink, and so on) there are no other options at all.

The tee is the most demanded shaped element. For a sewage device, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a particular type will depend on specific situation and a few important points.

Often, when repairing a riser or replacing it, it becomes necessary to replace the sewer tee. This can be done on your own or with the help of specialists. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should immediately be noted that tees can be oblique and straight. Such elements are used for various angles of connection to the sewer riser.

Installation of a plastic sewer tee and connection with a cast-iron pipe

The sewer cross is changed in such situations:

• if you need to reduce the level of placement of this element;
• if this part is already worn out to a large extent.

The reasons for replacing the crosspiece also include the impossibility of cleaning sewer system in the event of serious deposits on the internal surfaces of the pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be made of?

Most often, situations occur when the tee, which connects the riser to the intra-apartment wiring, cracks or rots. Then you can not do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, on the product of which material to choose?

connection of plastic pipes with cast iron

To choose the right part, it is important to familiarize yourself with the range of products available:

• cast iron tees are distinguished by good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. As for the compressive and tensile load, you should not be afraid that this will cause deformation or chipping. The average life of the product is about 25 years;
• The modern material for the manufacture of tees is considered to be polyvinyl chloride. Most of the plastic sewerage is made from this material. The service life in this case will be at least 50 years. The advantages include plasticity, and the disadvantages are splitting under heavy loads and impacts;
• the best material is polypropylene, which is lighter than PVC products, while it has good rigidity, wear resistance and resistance to temperature extremes. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous version.

Now on sale there is a silent plastic sewer, which has a multilayer structure and is characterized by a greater thickness. If there is a need to open cast iron riser, then it is more expedient to give preference to a silent product.

For some, the ratio of the cost of materials is of considerable importance, since it can vary greatly, which affects family budget. For example, consider the need to replace a straight tee, the diameter of which is 110 mm, which has all the necessary bends. The cost of such an element can be increased one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and increased thickness of the surfaces. Of course, such parameters turn out to be attractive, so many do not mind overpaying 100-200 rubles.

When making a choice, you should know that a durable tee in more needed when the section located above it draws down, since it is because of this that the tees often crack. Please note that cast iron product does not prevent drawdown, it only prevents its rapid split.

plumbing plastic pipes in the bathroom

In this case, it is advisable to give preference to lighter, more durable and inexpensive plastic. What will be PVC material or PP does not really matter, since performance characteristics plastics are almost the same.

Tee Replacement

Sooner or later, the time comes when a sewer tee needs to be replaced, mounted under a bathtub or other plumbing fixture. To replace it yourself, you need to follow certain instructions. In addition, it is important to prepare such items in advance:

• directly the tee itself;
• of the same diameter, you need to buy a compensating pipe;
• for transition from a cast-iron socket to plastic pipe a rubber cuff is required.

Work should begin with fixing the pipe over the sewer tee. If this condition is not met, its subsidence may occur, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process should be performed in the following sequence:

• on the riser, you need to turn off the water, warning the neighbors in advance about the plumbing work;
• the toilet bowl is dismantled and the internal sewerage is disconnected;
• a hole should be drilled in the wall behind the riser using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, while the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10 mm piece of smooth reinforcement is driven in;
• the riser must be pulled with wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• it is impossible to allow such a clamp to slip through the pipe;
• the same clamp must be applied over the tee, lifting the pipe with a crowbar for it until it stops;
• the clamp located above must be securely pulled to the armature.

installation of sewer pipes and their connection to the riser

Dismantling works

• Using a chisel or puncher, you need to beat off the concrete embedment for easy removal of the tee and socket that are under it.
• In the process of performing these works, it is important to be extremely careful, because the sewer may become clogged due to pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser.
• Using a screwdriver and light hammer, it is necessary to dismantle the cement seal and the cable from the socket of the tee, if possible.
• The riser is cut at a distance slightly greater than the length of the compensating pipe, namely under the tee from the socket. The next cut should be about 10 cm lower. After that, a piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed with a gas wrench or manually, only it is important to turn it. After removing the part, clean the socket located under it.

Installation work

To replace a cast-iron sewer tee with a plastic element, you need to follow a certain sequence of work:

• it is necessary to clean the riser from contaminants above the incision and old paint for the length of the socket;
• a simple purchased plastic clamp is placed directly under the incision. Its role is to keep the compensator from moving;
• then a compensating pipe should be pulled onto the cleaned section of the pipe. For ease of the process, you can treat the element with liquid or ordinary soap;
• using a rubber cuff, the tee must be carefully inserted into the socket;
• at correct execution process, the compensator must fit into the upper socket of the tee, after which it is fixed with a clamp;
• at the end of the work, the toilet bowl is installed and the comb is connected.

connection of the sewer riser and plastic pipes

To perform the work, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

• new cross;
• compensating clutch;
• tape measure;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves
• A 20 cm piece of pipe, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Phased work

• At the first stage, there are preparatory work. In advance, you need to ask the neighbors from above not to use the sewer for a while. It is easier if plumbing processes are performed on last floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe is marked for its correct cutting. To do this, you need to retreat 7.5 cm from the upper border of the socket, making a mark for cutting. To make an even cut, it is recommended to use the method of welders. The pipe is wrapped with newspaper and the edge is evenly aligned. Further marking is performed along the entire circumference. You don’t need to cut right away, you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to fix the riser to the wall, then they must be removed.
• Now you need to clean the work area from impurities. And prevent a possible drain from forgetful neighbors. To do this, the cover of the viewing tee is unscrewed, then a condom is inserted into the part of the pipe located above this hole. It, as a rule, is put on in advance on the tip of the tube and tied with a thread. Now you need to inflate it and tie it. Performing such actions, you can save yourself from impurities for a while. Despite these precautions, work must be done quickly.
• At the last stage, the pipe is cut according to a pre-prepared markup. The upper area is deflected to the side to dismantle the old cross. Putting on gloves, the old element is carefully removed, while a new cross is installed in its place. Now a compensator should be put on the pipe to make it easier, it is recommended to apply a soapy solution to the sealing cuff of the compensator.

We can say that the main part of the work is done. After that, it is required to pierce the condom and screw the cover of the revision hole back on. If necessary, plugs are installed on the outlets of the cross or pipes are brought to it, which are then fixed to the wall using fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewer, so it is recommended to have an empty basin on hand that can be substituted while draining sewage.

At the very beginning of the repair of the toilet at the stage of dismantling the toilet bowl, sink, plumbing and sewer pipes stumbled upon an unexpected problem in the form of a riser leak. The house is practically new - 3 years of construction. There were no problems prior to the repair. But after the drain pipes were disconnected, and the holes in the cross of the riser were plugged with plugs, the riser dripped.
Well, not like a river. Not even a stream, but such an almost imperceptible drip leak. However, she did not give rest. All this was aggravated by the fact that it was already time to start building a new wall of the plumbing box. And after its erection, access to the lower elements of the sewer riser will be seriously complicated. The reason for the digging was not amenable to any explanation.

Everything looked like this. The lowest joint of the pipes of the riser, or rather the pipe sticking out of the floor and the crosspiece inserted into it, was constantly wet. However, there was no evidence that water was getting in from above. Moreover, upon closer examination with a flashlight, periodic ejection of drops from the lower tube was clearly observed. Actually, this gave rise to the version that the cause of the leak is a poor-quality or missing sealing rubber cuff of the pipe.

One way or another, earlier I still thought about replacing the tee, since two more clients were added at the riser: washing machine and a dishwasher in the kitchen next door. Earlier in the bathroom, we easily changed the tee of the riser together with the godfather, spending 20 seconds on this procedure. But I didn’t really want to change the tee at the obviously current sewer riser on my own. As far as I know, risers, both sewer and water, are the responsibility of the DEZ. Therefore, I called there and invited the plumber Vasily, the author of the legendary phrase "domestic valve with a cap under the stuffing box," to 18:00.

Vasily agreed that the reason was probably the lack of a cuff. However, he said that it would be better for me to invite a team to repair the riser for tomorrow morning or afternoon. To this, I assured him that he could count on me as a member of the brigade, and that if a two-man brigade was enough, then it was time to start repairs right now.

Okay, let's look at the cuff first! - Vasily decided and the procedure began.

We must change! But how to disassemble the sewer riser?

Really? AS? Now everything will be told in detail.

Not- I will tell those who think that in order to remove the pipe from the riser, the entire assembly is fed up or down - this is unrealistic, since the pipes sticking out of the ceiling and floor are fixed quite thoroughly.

And not so- there will be an answer to those who believe that the riser should be deflected to the side and then its length will increase, which will make it possible to release the element.

In fact, the riser is disassembled very simply! To do this, it provides a special element - compensator. This is a short pipe, the socket of which is significantly longer than the sockets of 5 cm common for all other elements of the route. Thus, this compensator can be pushed onto the top pipe by 15-20 centimeters, which will make it possible to safely disassemble sewer riser and replace any of its elements.

IMPORTANT! If you decide on such a replacement, then to facilitate the work, you should drop a little machine oil into the joints of the compensator and other elements that you plan to disassemble 2-3 hours before the start. And on the wall it will be quite useful to mark the initial heights of the joints. Just in case.

So. Having fed the compensator up together with all the tees attached to it from below, we took out and opened the lowest connection. Vasily fished out a cuff from the pipe. And while none of the residents of the upper 9 floors decided to wash, or, which is certainly much more fun, flush the toilet, we pushed the crosspiece back into the pipe.
The cuff did not cause any complaints. There was no particular point in changing the cuff, and I suggested that Vasily replace the lower tee with a new cross. Vasily asked to see it, and after examining it, he expressed satisfaction with the quality of the element, finding it higher than that of the existing element. Indeed, all surfaces of the cross were perfectly smooth, in contrast to the noticeably rough old one.

After waiting 3-4 minutes of the state, when the noise of the water inside the sewer subsides, we again moved the compensator up. Vasily inserted a new (just in case) cuff into the lower pipe - 3 seconds. Disconnected the old cross - 2 seconds. Then a bad and very suspicious sound began to appear in the riser! ( drumroll) Growing in strength, like an approaching locomotive, the sound left no doubt that its cause was 6 liters of water from the toilet bowl + a certain amount of human waste products - in liquid or somewhat more solid form.
Having absolutely no desire to verify the type of product with our own eyes, we installed a new cross in the lower branch pipe with well-coordinated movements and moved the compensator and upper tee down, keeping within 3 seconds. The whole replacement took 8 seconds, although the last three seconds, it seemed to me, dragged on for a very long time ...

Such a quick replacement is possible if all the old disconnected and new elements connected are pre-treated with grease at the joints. If there is no machine oil at hand, then, at worst, you can use ordinary sunflower oil.

Installed back all the holders of the riser, we went to wash our hands and wondered:

Why was the sewer line leaking?

The rubber cuff is excluded, the narrowing of the cross was pushed into the lower branch pipe as far as it will go. There is only one reason left - a crack in the cross. And she can only be in one place - in one that could not be seen in any way while she was part of the riser. This is the bottom corner of the tee.

Turning it upside down, we immediately discovered this crack.

Judging by the appearance, the crack was far from fresh. Apparently it clogged from the inside with you-know-what, and when it dried, it formed a sealing layer. However, it was only necessary to slightly move the outlet and this unreliable sealant ceased to fulfill its functions.

You see what a mess! - Vasily pointed his finger at the defective tee.

I only offered to take this with me to the DEZ as evidence of the repair of the riser without calling the emergency brigade. He politely refused.
Just as politely, he did not refuse a small gratitude, and, as it seemed to me, very pleased with the work done and the reason found, he bowed out.

And who is our hero today?

ZYZH: It is clear that it is wrong to draw conclusions about quality based on such a small sample. Therefore, if you have something to say about the quality of a particular manufacturer of PP sewer pipes, please comment!

Consider replacing a tee (in our case, a cross) of an existing plastic sewer riser. The need for replacement is due to the fact that a flat cross does not suit us - we will install a volumetric one.

To replace the tee you will need:

1. Actually a new cross
2. Compensating clutch
3. Hacksaw
4. Roulette
5. Pencil or marker
6. Gloves
7. Condom
8. A small piece of tube (20-40cm long, 10-30mm in diameter)

The first stage - preparation:

We kindly ask all neighbors from the top of the riser not to use water and especially the toilet for the duration of the work, at the door of those apartments where we did not find anyone we leave a note with a request.

It’s good if the work is carried out on the top floor of the house - you don’t have to do all this.

Second phase:

We make the marking of the pipe cut. We retreat 75 mm from the upper edge of the socket of the old cross and make a mark on the pipe - here we will cut.

In order not to cut obliquely, we will use the method of welders: wrap the pipe with newspaper and evenly align the edge; mark with a pencil around the entire circumference of the pipe. You don't need to cut yet. dismantle the pipes connected to the cross. If the riser is fixed to the wall with fixing cuffs, remove them.

Third stage:

We protect workplace, and most importantly, ourselves from sewage flowing down the pipe, as well as forgetful old women and vindictive neighbors: we unscrew the cover of the revision tee; insert a condom into the part of the pipe above the hole, which was previously put on the tube (not completely, on the tip !!) and secured with a thread. We inflate and tie.

Now for a short time we are saved from impurities, then we act quickly and confidently

Fourth stage:

We cut the pipe according to the prepared markings; we reject the upper part so that it becomes possible to remove the old cross, take it out (do not forget about gloves!); insert a new cross in place; we put the compensator on the pipe until it stops (apply a soapy solution to the sealing cuff of the compensator - then it will be put on much easier) now you see what we used the compensation clutch for - the compensator socket has a length three times longer than the socket on other pipe parts - putting it all the way on the pipe and aligning the parts of the riser coaxially, we have the opportunity to connect them by "removing" the compensator from the pipe.

In fact, most of the work has been done. We blow off or pierce the condom, twist the revision cap. If required, we put plugs on the outlets of the cross or collect pipes connected to the cross, fix the riser to the wall.