How to make a cardboard teapot for a gift. Master class "Teapot-for tea bags

I present to you a master class - how to make a teapot from threads and decorate it with candy flowers. Such a handmade souvenir will become original gift for any holiday, it can be filled with delicious tea bags or your favorite sweets. See my tutorial here. I also prepared many other simple master classes for children - candy-paper bouquets and corrugated paper crafts.

Making a ball of thread in the form of a teapot

We inflate a balloon.

For the handle and spout, we take a waterproof cardboard, I cut it out of the juice package.

Preparing adhesive solution: dissolve 3 teaspoons of sugar in 50 ml of water, add 10-20 ml of PVA glue. We begin to wrap our ball with threads.

If you want the teapot to be pure white, take cotton threads, because synthetic ones turn yellow from such a solution.

Dries in about 24 hours, sometimes longer. At first, they will drip a little, so it is better to place the blanks above the sink.

Another nuance is that you should not tie the ball with threads, because, after all the manipulations with it, it can simply be blown away even before the glue grabs.

My secret is that I twist the tail of the balloon onto a wire. Firstly, the ball will never deflate, secondly, you can make a hook out of it and hang it to dry, thirdly, when the ball is completely dry, you can simply unscrew the wire, release the air and carefully pull it out without bursting it.

The finished ball already looks beautiful.

We cut out the lid of the future teapot from it.

Glue the top edge.

Prepare the nose and handle. I ran a thin wire along the edge (to keep the shape), and attached lace with hot glue.

I fixed the handle and spout also with the help of wires.

The lid is decorated with lace.

Add some gold and a drop.

Our teapot is ready, it remains only to decorate it with paper flowers. The rest you will find here.

If your house has old dishes and three-layer napkins, then you can, with the help of our tips, ennoble an old kettle. In this article you will find several ways to make a teapot yourself, a list of materials needed for this, as well as step-by-step instructions for each method.

How to make a cardboard teapot with a base

To make such a teapot you will need: ceramic teapot, acrylic paint, three-layer napkins, glue brush, glue and varnish.

From cardboard we make a model of a teapot for tea leaves. You can use the papier-mache technique, in which one layer of torn paper is glued to another, and the base (we will take a ceramic teapot as the basis) is coated with petroleum jelly. We wait for drying and carefully glue together all the details. Joints need to be sanded.
We primed the kettle with acrylic paint. We wait for the first layer to dry and start applying the second one.
Now we stop working with the kettle and wait for the paint to dry completely. In the meantime, we cut out the elements of the pattern from three-layer napkins. Delete two layers, leaving only the top one with the pattern.
After the kettle dries, generously grease its surface with PVA glue. Carefully combine the napkin and the wall of the teapot. We iron the picture with a brush with glue, smoothing out the wrinkles and pushing the air down. Moving down the pattern, apply an additional layer of glue to the surface of the napkin. We wait a day and proceed to decorate the teapot. For this, acrylic paints we apply patterns, curls and edging.
Finally, apply two coats of varnish for decoration.

How to make a clay teapot

In order to make a clay teapot, you will need: clay, oven, paints.

We sculpt an original teapot from household clay. We put it in the oven and wait until the clay is completely hardened. Take out of the oven and leave to cool completely.
Now you can start decorating the teapot. Apply paint in a single layer. We let it dry, apply a new one, and so on until all the gaps are painted over. After that, you can start drawing the pattern.
We let the teapot with the pattern dry again, after which we apply two layers of varnish.

How to sew a teapot

In order to sew a teapot yourself, you will need: threads, scraps of fabric, foam rubber. In order to make such a teapot, you need to cut it out of shreds, and then sew it into the chosen shape. For this type of teapot, it is better to make a foam rubber lining. This product can be used on the farm in order to put it on a teapot - this way it will stay warm longer. When choosing shreds, try to use as much imagination as possible to make the teapot fun and original. By the way, such a teapot can become great gift for tea lovers.

How to make a teapot in the form of a panel

To make a teapot panel, you will need: pebbles, pieces of glass, glue, cardboard, frame. We lay out the glass and pebbles in the picture in the form of a cheerful teapot. We stick them on thick cardboard and insert them into a glass frame. Now you know that the kettle can be made perfectly different ways and for completely different purposes!

In this article, you will learn about an interesting and for some reason forgotten accessory for dummies: a whistle, what it is for, how to use it and how you can make it at home. A whistle is needed in order to know when the water has boiled. Every person should appreciate the function of the whistle, which allows all people who use electric kettles to know when the water boils. But it happens that there is no whistle on the new teapot, or it is broken.

Do-it-yourself teapot whistle

There are many ways to make a whistle for dummies at home. For this, a little free time, materials and, of course, desire are enough. Let's look at the most interesting ways.

metal whistle

It will be shaped like a short cylinder. The top can accept different designs. First of all, you should take the metal without signs of corrosion. After that, you can proceed to the following steps:

Cut out two circles and a rectangle for the cylinder;
Connect these parts into a whole.

cork

You can also make a great teapot whistle with your own hands, using just the usual corks that you use to close bottles of lemonade or water every day. To do this, you need to follow a few simple steps:

Take two corks and connect them into one;
Cut a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

Be careful when using this method, you need to make an extensive cylinder of metal that is located between the plugs.

From a toy whistle

The version of the children's whistle is suitable for teapots with thin spouts. It is located on it, covering the entire surface. And if the kettle has a wide nose, then a metal glass is better for it, in which you will need to drill a hole with a conventional drill.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the metal. A whistle made of high-quality metal will serve you for a very long time and with great efficiency.

Never use aluminum or plastic material for the whistle! These materials are not resistant to high temperatures.

How to fix a whistle if it's broken

If you bought a low-quality device, you can fix it by following these steps:

You need to take the shell in which the whistle is located, and use a screwdriver to get it.
The next step is to remove the spring and prepare the surface for further work. To prepare the surface it is necessary to clean it.
When you move on to soldering, you will need soldering acid. After the surface is prepared, you can start soldering, and then clean the parts from dirt adhering to them.
The last step in this process is neutralization. You need to use alkali. In addition to alkali, alcohol can be used, but remember that this procedure must be carried out outdoors. This must be done carefully so as not to harm your health. To neutralize the craft, place it in a glass and pour alcohol into it, about 10 or 25%.

Following these rules, you can easily repair the whistle or make a new one!

Tatiana Getmanskaya

Next, we take the preparation of our napkins. To do this, carefully remove the lower layers of the napkin, depending on what they are, one or two layers, leave to work colored side. Lubricate the finished blanks with PVA glue and carefully apply a napkin, cut off the excess. Can the inside kettle decorate with one pattern, the outer with another. On the contra it turns out very nice. We let each side dry separately, in order to do the job faster, I dry each side with a hairdryer.

We decorate each half with a decorative cord, glue it with a glue gun for strength

and "gather" teapot

cover with acrylic lacquer

you can put tea bags

everything is ready

Related publications:

Master class for children 6-7 years old. "Stand for pens and pencils."

Municipal Preschool educational institution Kindergarten general developmental species No. 74 "Ray" Master class for children and parents "Feeding troughs.

Master class for teachers. "Gift for mom. Chamomile - needle bed " Educator MDOAU No. 3 "Bell", Novokubansk, Krasnodar.

Master class for teachers "Russian folk games for preschoolers" Scenario of a master class for preschool teachers. Topic: "Russians folk games for kids preschool age» Purpose: transmission and dissemination.

Master class for parents with children. Topic “Hatha yoga for children” Master class outline: 1 What is hatha yoga? 2 The value of exercise on.

Master class for parents on making a table puppet theater. Educators: Geraskina Yulia Sharifzyanovna Zayanchukovskaya Tatiana.

Household appliances for cooking are widely used by mankind and the leader of them, perhaps, is the electric kettle. But the service life of any electrical appliance is not eternal and there comes a moment when you turn on Electric kettle and the water is not heated.

An electric kettle is one of the simplest household electrical appliances, and in many cases it is quite easy to repair it with your own hands, even if you do not have electrical engineering skills.

The principle of operation and the electrical circuit of the electric kettle

To repair an electric kettle, you need to know how it works. This is easy to do by wiring diagram. Although there are many models of kettles, they are all assembled according to the same electrical circuit, regardless of appearance and capacity. There are some differences in the schemes, for example, the presence of a timer, but the basis of the scheme is still preserved.

The electric kettle works as follows. Through an electric plug, the mains voltage is supplied with a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when water is heated. At the base of the kettle there are reciprocal contacts, which, when placed on the stand, are connected to the contacts on the stand.

Next, the current passes through the thermal switch S1, which is turned on using the button on the kettle and turns off automatically when the water boils. The thermal protection switch S2 is not directly involved in the operation, it is always on and only works if the body overheats, if the kettle is on without water. From the switches, voltage is supplied to the outputs of the tubular electric heater, in short - TEN. The HL lamp serves to indicate the on state.

The device of the nodes of the electric kettle

If the voltage of an electrical appliance is different from 220 V, for example, a 12 V car electric kettle, then you can calculate the current consumption using an online calculator.

Attention! When repairing an electric kettle and any other household electrical appliances included in the household network, extreme caution should be exercised. Touching an unprotected part of the human body to live wires and live parts can cause serious damage to health, up to cardiac arrest. Don't forget to unplug the kettle!

How to disassemble an electric kettle

For exact definition causes and elimination of the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the cover from the bottom of the electric kettle. When removing the cover, you may encounter some difficulties.

Usually the bottom cover is screwed to the base of the electric kettle with slotted screws for a Phillips screwdriver. Sometimes the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed into the cover and closed with decorative caps, which must be removed with a sharp object to be able to unscrew the screws.

Some manufacturers to complicate the possibility self repair electric kettle, all or one of the screws is installed with a slot under the shaft of a two-pronged fork screwdriver, which is called Spanne, as in this photograph. A Spanne type screwdriver is rarely available from home craftsmen. In the absence of such a screwdriver, you can unscrew the self-tapping screw using side cutters or tweezers.

If it is not possible to unscrew the screw in this way, then with your own hands you need to make a special screwdriver from a screwdriver with a flat sting, making a selection in the middle of it for the slot profile using a needle file.

When repairing, it sometimes happens that a plastic screw cannot be unscrewed. In this case, you can try to move the screw from its place in the direction of twisting. If it wobbles, it will unscrew easily.

If the self-tapping screw cannot be unscrewed in this way, then you need to heat it with a soldering iron by attaching a sting to the head. The plastic from the heat around the threads of the self-tapping screw will soften, and it will easily unscrew. The stand of the electric kettle is also disassembled using the same technology.

In some models of electric kettles, after unscrewing the screws, the cover can be easily removed. But more often it is additionally fixed around the entire perimeter with latches. There are models in which the lid is held only by latches.

The upper part of the photograph shows a lid with a latch, and the lower part shows the base of the kettle with a square hole into which the latch goes when the lid is in place. On the right side of the base, one of the latches of the kettle handle got into the frame.

To release the latches, you have to carefully insert the flat tip of the screwdriver into different places junction of the cover and body in search of the location of the latch.

When it was possible to remove one of the latches from the hole, the screwdriver is left in this place and the second screwdriver is looking for the next latch located nearby. When a couple of latches are released, the rest are no longer clamped, and the cover can be easily removed. Often removing the cover from the base is more difficult than fixing the problem.

The electric kettle does not heat water, the indicator light is on

By this behavior, it is easiest to determine the malfunction. As can be seen from the electrical diagram, the indicator light or backlight is connected directly to the terminals put on the terminals of the heating element. Therefore, if the light is on, and the kettle does not heat the water, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the poor contact of the terminals with the terminals of the heating element or the breakage of the spiral inside it.

Restoring contact in the slip-on terminals

After removing the lid from the base of the kettle and inspecting the connecting contacts, the cause of the breakdown became obvious. One of the contacts of the heating element was burned, and the terminal practically hung in the air.

On the second output of the heating element, the terminal was also in poor condition, all turned black along with the contact. It's amazing how an electric kettle could heat water before.

The terminal was all burned out, and its further use was impossible. The contact on the output of the heating element, although partially burned, did not require springy properties from it, and the remaining part after stripping will completely provide good contact.

There was no new terminal available and I had to use a used terminal. If there is nowhere to get a new terminal, then you can use the terminal from the stand, with which the ground wire (yellow-green wire) is connected. In the vast majority of apartments, the electrical wiring does not have a grounding conductor, and the removal of this terminal will not affect the operation of the kettle.

Before using the old terminal, it must be freed from the wires pressed into it. To do this, you need to clamp the terminal as in the photo with small pliers and a faceted awl, pressing and rotating it, push the antennae apart. The remaining wires will fall out and the terminal will be ready for reuse.

In the photo on the left you can see two wires that were pressed into the terminal. By thick stranded wire the supply voltage is supplied, and through a thin single-core it is supplied to a neon light bulb or a water illumination system. These wires must be pushed into the terminal shank and crimped with pliers, after which the terminal will be ready for connection to the heating element.

The next step is to shine with a fine sandpaper clean the contact on the output of the heating element from both sides. After that, it remains to put the terminal on this contact, and reliable electrical contact will be provided.

After removing the terminal from the second contact, it turned out that both the terminal itself and the contact on the heating element were in good condition, only covered with oxide. After removing the black coating from the contact with sandpaper, it became like new. Before putting on the terminal for better contact she was a little squeezed by the round-nose pliers. To remove oxides from the internal contact surfaces of the terminal, it must be put on and removed several times on the flat contact of the heating element.

On this repair can be considered completed. It remains, without installing the bottom cover in place, pour water into the kettle to the minimum mark and check its performance. If the kettle did not begin to heat the water, then most likely the spiral of the heating element is broken, but there may be other reasons. In order to continue further troubleshooting, you must first check the health of the heating element. It is impossible to replace the heating element in an electric kettle, since it is welded to its base. This kettle is beyond repair.

Repair of welded contacts

A glass electric kettle of the Polaris PWK 1719CGL model with a backlight was repaired, in which, when turned on, the indicator was on, but the water did not heat up. Such a malfunction indicated a violation of the contact at the connection point of the heating element leads.

The bottom cover was easily removed after unscrewing the three screws. I liked the build quality. The assumption was confirmed, in this model, the connection to the electrical circuit was made in an unconventional way using captive terminals, and spot welding flat brass wire directly with the output of the heating element, one of which has moved away. Obviously, due to a violation of technology, the conductor was poorly welded.

A slight mechanical impact by hand on the second flat wire also led to his failure. The flat conductors were connected to the electric circuit of the kettle with the help of captive terminals. They were removed and the wires were brought under the terminals of the heating element from below, as shown in the photo.

For reliable contact of the flat conductors with the leads, they were pressed with screws using metal strips. The slats were taken from the Soviet power plug (they pressed network wire) and outlets. When installing the slats, make sure that they do not touch the metal body of the kettle.

Checking the electric kettle showed its excellent work. Boiled water was beautifully illuminated with blue light thanks to LED backlight. I liked the design of the kettle, as well as the build quality. It is a pity that the welding of wires with the leads of the heating element turned out to be of poor quality. After the described repair, the electric kettle has been working flawlessly for several years.

The electric kettle does not heat water, the power indicator does not light up

Like any other electrical appliance, an electric kettle to electrical network it is connected using a C6 type electric plug and the first thing to do if the kettle does not heat water is to make sure that the plug is in good condition and there is voltage in the socket. You can check the outlet by connecting any electrical appliance to it, for example, a table lamp.

Repair of the contact group of the electric kettle with a stand

Since voltage is supplied to the electric kettle through the stand by touching its contacts with the contacts of the current collector, it is necessary to check the contact pairs for burning by external inspection. A sign of contact failure in the contact pair appears at an early stage, and manifests itself in the need to rotate the kettle on the stand in order for it to start heating water. To prevent more serious consequences, it is necessary to immediately clean the contacts from carbon deposits.

To check, you need to turn the kettle over and inspect the condition of the contact rings. In the photo of this kettle, the inner ring on the left side is oxidized and burned out by a few millimeters. To restore the contact surface, it is enough to clean it to a shine with sandpaper. The ring contact became bad due to insufficient pressure and oxidation of the contact located in the stand.

Flat contact plates in the contact node of the stand are fastened with screws or hooks. To remove a plate fixed with hooks, you must first remove the plastic insert with a screwdriver, and then, having picked up the hook with an awl, remove the plate.

After removing the cover from the stand and removing the contact plate, from which the current was supplied to the burnt ring, it became obvious that the end of the plate was bent, and the contact area was badly burned. The contact plate itself, although it darkened a little from heating, did not lose its springy properties. After restoring the shape of the plate and sanding the surface of the contact pad with sandpaper, the plate was installed in its original place.

After installing the contact plate, before screwing the bottom onto the stand, attach it to the bottom of the kettle and make sure that the contact plate moves a couple of millimeters, the contact fits in the center and does not cling to the walls of the stand. If everything is so, then you can screw the bottom to the stand and test the kettle after repair by boiling water in it.

But not always so lucky. There are contacts that are burned to such an extent that stripping and straightening the plate no longer helps and you have to replace part of the plate with a new one. The photo on the left shows a contact that burned almost to the ground. To replace it, you need to cut off the plate with contact to the first bend, clean the surface of the remaining plate to a shine with sandpaper and tin it with solder.

If there is an old electric kettle and the contacts in the stand are in good condition, then you can use them for repairs. A new replacement plate can also be taken from any powerful relay, such as a RPU. There are relays even with silver contacts.

A plate of the required length is bitten off from the relay, bent and tinned with solder. Next, the prepared contact plate is pressed against the pre-tinned stand plate, and the assembly is heated with a soldering iron. As a result, the contact element of the stand becomes no worse than a new one.

After installing the contacts in the stand, it is necessary, as after the previous repair, to check the accuracy of their positioning and freedom of movement. The photo shows a stand in which both contacts were replaced by soldering.

Kettle switch button repair

Another malfunction of electric kettles that I had to meet was a failure in the handle of the power control button.

The switch may not work due to the failure of the switching mechanism or the breakage of the key, which happened to the kettle that came to me for repair.

An autopsy showed that one of the axes, with which the key is fixed in the pen body, broke off. As you can see in the photo, the left axle is missing. At first glance, it seems that it is impossible to repair a key, but if you think about it, you can often find a way to restore a broken plastic part.

For repairs from copper wire with a diameter of 2 mm, the curly bracket shown in the photograph was bent. The bracket can be made from aluminum wire and even from a nail. The diameter is selected based on the diameter of the axle seat in the kettle handle.

After the plastic hardened, the key was installed in the handle. The test showed that the button began to work no worse than before the breakdown. With daily use, the electric kettle has been working flawlessly for more than a year.

Kettle switch repair

The switch in an electric kettle is placed on the handle or at the base. The switch may not work due to burnt contacts, oxidation of the bimetallic disk (when water boils, water vapor enters it and the disk may rust over time), weakening of the flat spring, or wear of plastic parts.

The photo shows the electric kettle switch removed from the handle. He has small size and works exactly the same way as any wall switch. The only difference is that it is able to automatically turn off when water boils.

By the way, the switch is finished independent product and it can be used for emergency shutdown of any electrical appliance when the temperature in the controlled area reaches more than 100°C.

Two stable positions of the switch are provided by a flat, curved spring. In the photo on the left, the kettle switch is in the upper off position. In the right picture in the lower position, when the electric kettle is turned on in the water heating mode. The switch engine is connected to the contacts and thus, when moving from one stable state to another, it closes or opens the contacts, thus turning the kettle on or off.

If the switch key is not fixed, then the flat spring is to blame. It may lose elasticity or pop out. To restore the circuit breaker, it is enough to remove the flat spring and slightly increase the radius of its arc (straighten it).

A bimetallic disc is installed at the bottom of the switch. When heated from steam, the tongue of the disk moves up, through the pusher it presses on the engine and it moves to the upper stable position, opens the contacts, thereby turning off the power supply to the heating element.

Another malfunction that occurs in electric kettles is the burnout of the contacts in the switch. Contacts can be placed directly next to the power key or away from it. In this case, the connection of the key with the contacts is carried out using plastic rods.

In the photo on the left, thermal protection contacts, they practically do not work and are always in perfect condition. On the right is the switch contacts, which open frequently and therefore always burn out. To clean them, you need to attach a strip of sandpaper to a narrow tool, for example, to a flat screwdriver blade and remove carbon deposits with reciprocating movements. You can also use a file.

Switches are installed in the handles of some models of electric kettles. closed type and to clean the contacts it must be disassembled.

To disassemble, you need to unscrew one screw and remove the switch from the handle. Next, drown two small latches that are located on the sides of the switch and pull the part with the contacts out of the case by the wires. Contacts will become available, and all that remains is to clean them in the manner described above. When disassembling, you should not lose a small pusher that connects the bimetallic plate with the moving part. Without it, the kettle will not turn off.

How to fix a water leak from an electric kettle

When repairing electric kettles, I had to deal with their leakage in the following places:

at the junction of the measuring window with the body (repair is impractical, since sealing the crack with any adhesive composition gives a short effect)
from a crack in a plastic case (cannot be repaired at home);
at the junction of the metal bottom-disk with the flask of the kettle.

Therefore, when buying a new electric kettle, instead of a broken one due to a cracked body, I purchased a kettle with a glass flask. I hoped that the electric kettle would never give a fatal leak, since the glass case, with careful handling, is almost eternal, and the leak that occurred at the junction of the glass with a metal base can be successfully eliminated.

After several years of operation of a glass electric kettle, water began to appear on its contact pad after boiling water, which also dripped from the bottom. After each boil, the puddle of water on the platform increased, and drops from the bottom of the kettle dripped more and more often. I had to get it repaired.

To determine the location of the water leak, it was necessary to unscrew the two self-tapping screws at the top of the handle and three self-tapping screws holding lower part disassemble the electric kettle.

After disconnecting the bottom, to continue the repair, it remains only to remove the cap terminals from the contacts of the heating element and the overheating protection system. To avoid problems during assembly, before removing the terminals, you should remember or draw which of the terminals, which of the contacts was put on.

The glass flask was sealed to the bottom with silicone sealant. Upon careful inspection of the joint, it was found that at the plant, as a result of a violation of the gluing technology, air bubbles formed in several places in the silicone seam. Over time, water began to flow through one of them.

At first I wanted to seal with silicone only the water leaks, but I was not sure that the leak would not appear in a new place. Therefore, it was decided to detach the glass flask from the bottom, and glue them again.

Using a knife blade, the silicone was cut to the maximum possible depth, both along the inner seam and from outside. After that, the glass flask was separated from the bottom with little effort.

Next, the remnants of the old silicone were completely removed from the mating surfaces with a knife, and then the surfaces to be glued were degreased with a solvent (acetone or alcohol is suitable). If there is no solvent at hand, then you can wash the surface hot water with baking soda or laundry soap and be sure to dry before gluing. In addition, the surface of the metal bottom was polished to a shine with sandpaper.

The bottom of the kettle is made of stainless steel, which was checked with a neodymium magnet - it was not attracted to the bottom. But to my surprise, in the place where there was a leak, a hole appeared, shown in the photograph. How a hole could form in stainless steel remains a mystery to me, perhaps this is a factory defect.

The hole was formed in the lower part of the pairing of the glass bulb and the bottom, and when glued together, it would be closed with a sealant. But I decided everything, using an electric soldering iron, close the hole with soft solder.

The choice of sealant for gluing

The surfaces of the parts of the electric kettle are prepared for gluing and it is time to choose a sealant, which should be harmless to human body, withstand temperatures up to +180°C and be elastic. Silicone sealants fully comply with the requirements.

The best of them is the RTV 118 Q food grade silicone adhesive sealant from the American manufacturer, which can withstand temperatures up to +260°C. But the price of an 82 ml tube of this sealant is comparable to the cost of a new electric kettle.

The market has silicone sealant Russian manufacturer VGO-1, which is also designed for sealing joints of pipes for hot and cold water supply, withstanding temperatures up to + 260 ° C. It is packaged in tubes of 300 ml, but it is also expensive and costs like half the price of a teapot. To seal the electric kettle, you need no more than 20 ml of silicone, so it is economically feasible to purchase a VGO-1 tube if you plan to use it for other work.

When choosing a silicone sealant, a reasonable question arose. Do manufacturers of electric kettles, and they are all made in China regardless of the brand, use expensive food grade silicone? The answer is obvious, they use the cheapest sealant for sealing. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the simplest silicone sealant, in which there are no additives, is quite suitable. After several boilings of water, even if there are contraindicated substances in the sealant, they will all dissolve in water and the silicone will become safe for the human body.

At hand there was a universal construction silicone sealant Soudal, which I decided to use. There are no additives in its composition and the sealant withstands temperatures up to +180 ° C, which is quite enough for the heat resistance of the joint.

Gluing parts of an electric kettle

It remains to take the most crucial step - fill the bottom groove around the entire circumference with silicone sealant and insert a glass flask into it. Before applying the sealant, the surfaces must be degreased with alcohol or a solvent.

The bottom area mating with the glass flask was large, so after applying the sealant strip, I had to smear it with a screwdriver blade.

The glass flask was inserted into the bottom groove. Excess silicone squeezed out by the flask was removed with a rag soaked in soapy water. Then the seams to give beautiful view, aligned with a finger dipped in soapy water. The picture shows the result of the work.

Checking the tightness of the connection of the kettle parts

Bulk silicone usually hardens at room temperature at a rate of 2 mm per day. Given that the depth of the seam in the glued electric kettle was about 10 mm, I had to put it aside for a week, and only after that carry out tests.

For testing, the electric kettle was connected to the mains disassembled, directly, without a protection and control system. To do this, terminals were put on the ends of the cord with a plug, which were then put on directly on the contacts of the heating element. The kettle has been placed in the working position, water has been poured into it and then the plug has been inserted into the socket. It is unacceptable to leave the electric kettle with such a switching scheme unattended.

According to the scheme, all Soviet electric kettles were previously connected directly and you had to wait until the water boiled and turn them off manually by removing the plug from the outlet.

A few minutes later the water boiled. There were no traces of water leaks, silicone sealant reliably sealed the junction of the parts. To prevent accidental harmful impurities from entering the water from the silicone seam, after assembling the kettle, three portions of water were boiled in it with its complete replacement.

Attention! It is unacceptable to pour into any heated electric kettle immediately after the boiled water is completely drained from it. cold water. Due to thermal shock, microcracks may occur in the body of the kettle, from which water will begin to flow over time.

I note that this glass teapot, after the above repair, has been serving flawlessly for more than three years. I didn't even have to clean the contacts.

How to clean an electric kettle from rust

Over time, due to rusty metal water pipes, despite the transparency of the water flowing from the tap and even its subsequent filtration, rust deposits form on the inner surface of the electric kettle. Many do not like it, and obviously it does not bring health benefits.

The simplest and safe means rust removal is lemon acid, which is sold in any grocery store.

To remove rust, you need to fill at least half the electric kettle with water and pour one sachet of citric acid into it.

Next, turn on the kettle and bring the water to a boil. Rust marks can be removed from the top edges and lid with a brush dipped in boiling water. Water turns brown after boiling. If there are several kettles in the house, then water can be poured into each of them and boiled again.

After boiling, let the kettle cool, drain the rusty water and rinse clean water. As you can see in the photo, the electric kettle began to look like new, citric acid completely dissolved the rust.

As you can see, repairing an electric kettle with your own hands is not at all difficult, and if desired, any home master can do it.