Muraya: how to grow "orange jasmine" at home. Muraya flower home care growing from seeds and reproduction photo Muraya transplant at home

It is presented in the form of a small tree, the growth of which, most often, reaches no more than 1.5 meters. At the same time, its bark, which can have a gray-white or white-yellow hue, is considered an unusual feature of the plant, and feathery brownish leaves stand out perfectly against its background.

The green part of murraya is very widely used in culinary activities. It is the most delicious and unusual seasoning that has a citrus-lemon flavor. It is also part of one of the famous spices of India - curry.

Murraya flowering begins with the appearance of chic flowers white color. When this process comes to an end, instead of leaves, small red berries appear on the plant. Some believe that they are very easy to confuse with hawthorn.

If you get very close to the plant, you can smell the pleasant smell of jasmine. Fruits that grow on stems can be used as food. They have a spicy taste and a sweetish tint.

This plant belongs to the rue family. In unnatural habitat conditions, only a few varieties of this flower can be grown. These include exotic and panicled murray. In appearance, these two plants are practically indistinguishable from each other.

With proper care, murray at home can grow for many years. At the same time, its young shoots slowly increase in size, thereby contributing to the formation of a lush crown. In order for the branches not to be damaged, the plant must be supported (that is, the construction of special supports will be required). For several years, the flower practically does not develop. But when root system strengthens and adapts to new growth conditions, the active growth of the upper part of the flower begins. Every year, the height of the murraya can increase by a couple of centimeters.

Landing

First of all, growing a plant at home begins with planting a murray. This will require the use of its seeds. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the seeds that are bought in stores do not always germinate. But, the seeds personally collected after flowering are much more reliable and efficient. The guarantee of growth of such seeds usually reaches 99-100%.

Planting murrayi is carried out in moistened soil, which should consist of sand and leafy earth. The container, which is used for growing seeds, must be covered with glass and taken to a room that is well lit throughout the day.

After 2-3 weeks, you will be able to see the first young shoots, which, in turn, will grow quite quickly. It is during this period of time that the glass will need to be removed. After that, you just have to watch the active growth of the shoot, which after a short period of time will turn into a chic little tree.

Upon completion of planting, the young plant must be watered!

Locationand lighting

Murraya refers to plants that will not develop normally without heat. It is for this reason that it is very important to ensure that with the onset of cold weather, the air temperature in the house does not fall below 15 degrees.

It is best to place the flower on the east or west side. The plant loves light, but to avoid burns from the direct rays of the sun, it needs to create a small shade.

In the summer, the balcony or loggia becomes the best place for Murraya to grow. Do not forget that it is necessary to avoid frequent drafts. Otherwise, the leaves may begin to deteriorate.

When daylight is shortened, you can use the help of phyto- and fluorescent lamps. It is necessary that the light falls on the plant for 12-14 hours. If these conditions are not met, the murraya may not bloom at the right time, and the likelihood of a complete drop of foliage also increases.

Pot dimensions

To ensure the normal growth of the flower, it is very important to approach the choice of the required pot size. Most often, when transplanting murray, experts advise choosing a pot that will be 1-2 centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one.

No need to exaggerate with dimensions. After all, then, all the liquid during irrigation will accumulate at the roots of the plant, which can lead to an irreversible process of decay of the root system.

When choosing a pot, pay attention to its stability and the material from which it is made. It is best to choose plastic flower pots that have a wide pallet. This provides reliable support flowerpot.

The soil

In order for the plant to develop well and bloom in a timely manner, when planting or transplanting a flower, it is necessary to choose the right soil.

So, it is believed that for murray the best option is nutritious and loose earth. Its acidity can reach 6 - 7.5 pH.

If you plan to purchase soil in a store, then, first of all, your choice should fall on the soil, which is intended for citrus cultivation. At the same time, you will need to add a little perlite or vermiculite to this soil (this will increase the looseness of the earth).

If desired, the soil for murrayi can be prepared on its own. To do this, you need to mix leaf and sod land, humus and coarse sand. All ingredients are combined with each other in a ratio of 2:2:2:1.

Do not forget that before pouring out the soil, drainage is necessarily lined at the bottom of the pot. To do this, you can use expanded clay or small pebbles.

Transfer

Murraya, like other indoor flowers, needs to be replanted every year. For this procedure, a pot is prepared in advance, which must necessarily be larger than the previously used and the above soil.

When transplanting a flower, you need to be careful and careful, because the plant has very fragile roots that are quite easy to damage. In order not to disturb the root system of the flower, you can apply a simpler method of transplantation. To do this, the top layer of earth of 5 centimeters is removed and sprinkled with a new one. It is not recommended to compact the soil.

An important condition for transplanting murray is the location of the root collar. It is necessary that it is always located at the top, and not deepened into the ground.

Upon completion of the process of transplanting murray, the plant will need to be watered!

Fertilizers and top dressing

The most suitable period for feeding murray is the time from March to September. It is recommended to alternately use mineral and organic fertilizers.

During the period of active growth of the plant, top dressing is desirable to carry out once a month.

If top dressing is carried out too often, then with the onset of flowering, swollen buds may not open.

For greater efficiency, liquid product fertilizers can be used. At high concentrations, they must be diluted in purified water. Using this technique will speed up the growth of the flower, and significantly strengthen the entire root system of murray.

Watering

When the plant begins to grow actively, it is very important to water it regularly. To do this, you will need to use purified, or settled for several days, water. Make sure that the fluid does not contain limescale or other harmful substances.

The fact that a plant needs to be watered is easy to determine by the state of its land. As soon as the soil dries out a little, this means that the flower is ready to receive the next portion of the liquid.

With the onset of cold weather, the frequency of watering is significantly reduced, and with the onset of a dormant period, it may stop altogether.

Temperature regime

For the active growth of murray in the warm season, the mark on the thermometer can reach 25 degrees. And with the onset of cold weather, the thermometer should show at least 17 degrees.

Murraya must be protected from sudden changes in temperature and strong drafts. It is for this reason that the flower must be placed away from the air conditioner, vents and balcony doors.

Air humidity

Murraya, a type of panicled, will adapt quite positively to a reduced level of humidity even if it is very cool outside.

When the dryness in the house reaches a critical point, the plant may begin to wither and dry out. To avoid the death of the plant, its crown can occasionally be watered with warm boiled water. It is also possible to carry out the bathing procedure under the shower jets. This helps not only to revitalize the foliage, but also helps to get rid of dust.

pruning

To make it easier for the plant to develop during the period of its active growth, it is imperative to prune. If the shoots reach large sizes, then they can be shortened to the desired look. Thus, it will be possible to create such a shape of a tree that you have long dreamed of.

Varieties of dwarf and miniature murray do not need pruning. Even without this method, they branch very well and have a beautiful appearance, and unusual crown shapes.

At own desire pruning is carried out at any time of the year. Although, usually, no one risks endangering the flower and carries out the procedure as needed.

Diseases and pests

Murraya, with poor care, insufficient lighting and watering, becomes susceptible to damage from plant pests such as spider mites and scale insects.

If the flower lacks nutrients in the soil, then the leaves may change their color and become more lethargic. To correct this, it is necessary to use fertilizers of a mineral and organic nature.

In bright sunlight, the leaves can get severely burned, and also dry out a little along the edges and in the central part.

If the humidity level in the room is very low, then murraya may begin to shed ripe flower stalks. In order not to harm the plant even more, it is necessary to carry out the procedure of spraying and bathing in the shower.

Bloom

With proper care, murraya is capable of continuous flowering. But most often this unique process occurs from spring to mid-autumn.

At the same time, small white flowers open on the plant. Unfortunately, this unusual spectacle can only last a few days. The flowers have a pleasant aroma, which is somewhat similar to how jasmine smells.

After the flowers fall, small berries appear, which are painted red. They are edible, so they are often used to prepare various dishes.

If the humidity is low and the air temperature in the room is too high, then murray pollen will not be able to perform its main function.

reproduction

The main way to propagate murray paniculata at home is to use seeds. In order to be sure of their 100% ascent, the seeds must be prepared in advance.

Sowing seeds is carried out immediately, as soon as they are freed from the pulp.

In order for the seeds to sprout quickly, it is necessary to maintain a slightly elevated temperature of 25-28 degrees.

When planting, the seeds will need to be immersed in sand, approximately half a centimeter, after which the container in which they are located is covered with glass.

The first shoots can be seen in a few weeks.

rest period

In winter, a dormant period begins for murray. At this time, it is recommended to maintain the temperature in the room at least 16 degrees. Also, a sufficient amount of light plays a very important role.

Watering for several months is significantly reduced, and the use of fertilizers should be completely abandoned.

Plant toxicity and beneficial properties

When deciding to start growing murray in the house, you care not only about the plant itself, but also about the health of those around you. After all, as you know, the elements that the plant emits (phytoncides and aromatic oils) purify the air very well in the room. The aroma of flowers that bloom during flowering normalizes sleep and has a calming effect on nervous system person.

This plant can be used as a medicine. So, it can reduce the symptoms of diseases such as ischemia of the heart, angina pectoris, high blood pressure.

Murraya fruits are advised to be eaten by people suffering from diabetes. The unique properties of these fruits help control blood sugar levels.

With proper care, murraya will not only become an excellent decoration in your home, it also helps to maintain a person's normal well-being and create an atmosphere of comfort and tranquility in the house!

How many more unexplored flowers the tropics will give us. Muraya is one of the representatives exotic plants. This is not only a beautiful, but also a useful plant. For medicinal purposes, all parts of the tree are used, including the underground part.

Description and features of muraya

In wild nature Muraya tree(Murraya) or shrub reaches 3 meters in length. The room stretches up to 1 -1.5 m. Trees can be found on the islands Pacific Ocean, tropical forests, India, Asia.

The plant emits a magical smell. Inhaling its aroma, you can get a charge of vivacity, develop mental ability, restore cardiovascular system and improve sleep. The famous botanist D. Murray discovered this plant back in the 18th century, and the flower was named after him.

Muraya trunk woody with yellow tint. The leaves are dark green, fleshy with a citrus aroma and lemon notes. Due to this, the plant is successfully used in cooking, medicine, cosmetology. The shape of the leaf is varied: oval, round, with some bend in outside.

Muraya flowers snow-white or with milk caps. The diameter of the inflorescence varies from 1.8-2 cm. Moreover, they grow as singles or collected in a brush.

In the photo Dutch muraya

To change colors, red oval ones appear muraya berries. The maturation period lasts about 4 months. The appearance is similar to the fruits of hawthorn, and similarly they have medicinal properties:

• stabilize blood pressure;
• reduce headache;
• tone the body;
• reduce blood sugar.

The uniqueness of the plant in the simultaneous formation of fruits and the growth of new buds. Berries with a peculiar taste, have a sweetish aftertaste. Useful muraya properties not only in fruits, leaves, but also roots, stems, flowers:

1. The first signs of a sore throat can be removed if you take a few leaves and chew thoroughly in your mouth, only then swallow. If the disease progresses, rinsing with decoction will help here. Brew a few leaves like tea. After 15 minutes, you can use the drug every two hours.
2. In the rehabilitation period of the post-infarction state, tincture is used. Fruits and leaves, crushed in equal proportions (5 tablespoons) are infused in a dark place on vodka (250 g). After two weeks, apply 30 drops before each meal.
3. Tincture of the following components will save you from dermatitis: plantain, murraya (3 tablespoons each), brew with 1 liter of boiling water.

Cosmetology has not bypassed the useful gifts of nature and has found application for them:

1. A daily intake of 5 berries per day will help prevent aging of the body. The skin will retain elasticity and moisture.
2. For women after 30 years, a decoction will help balance aging skin. For this, 2 tbsp. spoons of flowers brew with water 0.5 liters. Leave for 7 hours under a warm cloth. Then, strain and use instead of washing with water in the morning.

Muraya contraindications

Each drug can bring not only benefit, but also harm. Therefore, before using prescriptions, you should consult a doctor for advice. Even if the plant does not cause side effects.

It is important to remember about alcohol tinctures! They intensely reduce pressure. Therefore, when taking them, you need to control blood pressure. The following factors that can be used are idiosyncrasy, pregnancy, infants.

Having studied the benefits and harms of muraya, we can conclude. That one should not abuse alcohol tinctures, fruits and ignore the advice of doctors.

Planting and breeding muraya

Choose a place in the apartment with bright diffused light. The soil for planting should be slightly acidic and loose. It is enough to take soil for citrus crops in flower shop, add vermiculite.

At home, you can take river sand with humus and leafy soil. Before use, heat the mixture or impregnate it with a solution of potassium permanganate. Growing Muraya can be done in two ways.

Propagation by cuttings:
1. For this method, mature plants with a sufficient number of shoots, in early spring, are suitable.
2. Cut off the crown cuttings 15 cm long.
3. Cut large leaves in half.
4. Root cuttings well in peat tablet, water, perlite.
5. Before planting, treat the cut with zirconium.
6. Put glass or plastic jars on the cuttings to create a favorable microenvironment.
7. From time to time to do airing, spraying the soil.
8. Keep the container in a consecrated place.
9. The optimum temperature is 26-29 degrees C.
10. The appearance of new leaves will be a signal that the cuttings have taken root.
11. Shelter can be removed and the branches distributed in separate pots.

Muraya breeding from seed:
1. The time of sowing seeds is not tied to time. Once the seeds have formed, they can be used as planting material.
2. Germination is maintained for a long time.
3. The fruits are peeled and soaked for a while (2 hours) in a warm liquid.
4. Pour peat mixed with sand in equal proportions into the container.
5. Lower the seeds and sprinkle a little and moisten the soil. Do not compact the earth, it should be loose on the surface.
6. Create a mini greenhouse, periodically ventilate and monitor the soil moisture in it. It should not be wet or dry.
7. Lighting should be bright with a temperature of 29 degrees C.
8. After one month, one and a half shoots will appear.
9. Remove cover.
10. The signal for picking will be two real leaves. If the seeds are planted immediately in separate pots, picking is excluded.
11. The soil for young seedlings should be looser than for adult specimens.
12. As soon as the roots fill the entire pot, the plants will start to grow.
13. Muraya from seeds will bloom the next year, but the buds should be cut off so that the plant is well strengthened in the underground part.

Muraya care

In order for the plant to bestow flowers and fruits, it is necessary to take care of the muraya , in the following way:

1. Watering muraya plants spend moderate. The exception is hot weather. Irrigation in this case increases, but this does not mean that it should be flooded. Waterlogged soil will not allow the flower to grow, and will provoke rotting of the root system.

V winter period watering is reduced. Special requirements apply to water: soft, settled water. It can be rain or melted snow. The bush responds positively to rubbing muraya leaves from dust and spraying.

2. Top dressing alternate with complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter. No more than once a month.

3. Since the tropics are the birthplace of the plant, do not forget about high humidity. You can achieve it in the apartment, if you spray the bush, place it in an aquarium or put it on a pan with water. These measures are especially relevant when the heating is turned on.

4. Murraya loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. If the apartment does not have an east, west side, then it is worth covering the glass with gauze, using blinds at lunchtime. The north window gives little light. Here, on the contrary, it is necessary to use additional consecration. Otherwise, the flower may shed its leaves. The plant responds well to walks in the summer.

5. Observe the following temperature regime: summer - 25 degrees C, winter - 17. Muraya does not like drafts.

In good weather, muraya can be taken outside

6. Replant young seedlings every year. Choose the next pot 2 cm larger than the previous one. Adult specimens are transplanted once every 3 years. Drainage is of particular importance.
Fill them with a flowerpot should be 1/3 of it. Do not bury the root neck into the ground.

Use the transfer method. When the entire bush with soil is carefully pulled out, the root part is inspected. If there is decay and dead roots, remove. A layer of soil is sprinkled on the drainage, then the parts are seated, removed. Soil is poured over the drainage, and a tree with a clod of earth is planted. New soil is sprinkled on the sides of the plant.

For a few days, put the container in a shaded place so that the flower survives the stress. Then, again put the flowerpot on the consecrated place.

When transplanting, you should carefully look at the root, remove diseased and rotten parts

7. A uniform crown can be achieved not by pinching, but by turning the flowerpot towards the light. In the spring, carry out sanitary pruning. And also shorten large shoots by 1/3. Get rid of the shoots growing inside the bush.

Types and varieties of muraya

According to experts, only 10 species of muraya live in nature. Of these, two species are suitable for growing at home. The first kind - exotic muraya (Muraya exotica) or foreign. This species is native to Japan.

There it is called Japanese myrtle. Earlier, almost 4 centuries ago, mere mortals could not grow it - it was punishable death penalty. The plant was intended only for the elite. Over time, plants related to citrus and rue passed into the possession of the people.

An adult exotic muraya can be mistaken for a lemon one from afar. The trunk of young shoots is green, and the leaves are similar to citrus specimens. The tree itself emits an exquisite tart aroma of rue.

Inflorescences cover the crown with white caps in the form of a garland. The fruits are red in color, reminiscent of a miniature lemon. If you bite into it, then in your mouth, like a juicy persimmon. The benefits of muraya exotic was noticed back in the days of the ancient Egyptian estates. Tibetan medicine also cannot do without this plant.

exotic muraya

The second kind is muraya paniculata(Murraya paniculata). The birthplace of the evergreen shrub is China. Natural specimens grow up to 3 meters. Grown in room culture muraya blooming like bonsai.

Shoots end with flowers collected in clusters. The leaves are leathery, oval, twisting slightly outward. Continuous flowering of snow-white flowers, ending with the appearance useful berries.

In the photo, panicled muraya

Scientists have conducted a lot of research and found that the plant affects cancer cells, and does not allow them to develop, thanks to the active substances that are in the composition of the plant. Buy muraya it wasn't possible before. Now all flower shops are glad to offer you useful flower.

Muraya Koeniga. Some flower growers think that this is a representative of the paniculate species. But the plant has nothing to do with it. In the wild, murraya Koenig grows in India and is considered a separate species.
The tree can be called a giant among other species, since its height is 6 meters. Powerful barrel 0.4 meters. Surprisingly small flowers are collected in one brush up to 80 pieces, like separate bouquets.

Berries after flowering become black, but its seeds are poisonous. Although the pulp is edible. Growing it indoors is very difficult. But there are lovers who want to "tame" a capricious variety.

Diseases and pests of muraya

Improper care for muraya has the following consequences:

• the plant feels good in slightly acidic soil, but if there is an excess of alkali, the leaves of the plant will turn yellow in the composition of the soil;
• the appearance of dry leaves at the edges or in the center. This is the first signal that the bush has received a sunburn;
• inflorescences fall. This indicates that the air is too dry.

The most dangerous pests for the plant are mites, thrips, spider mites, scale insects. In the fight against them, the leaves should be washed with soapy water and treated with insecticides.

Murraya is one of the most popular tropical exotic plants that you can grow on your windowsill. The attractiveness of murray is obvious: an openwork spreading crown, abundant fragrant flowering, responsiveness to attention and care (an abundance of berries). The murraya plant very well cleans the air in the house from chemical compounds emitted building materials and household appliances, and in addition, emits phytoncides and aromatic oils, which help to reduce pathogenic microorganisms in the air.

Yuri Alexandrovich Markin, a collector and florist, shared his experience with us.

Murraya is ours and Dutch

Murraya belongs to the rue family, is the closest relative of citrus. Murraya Paniculata is most often grown at home - it is easier to get seeds, purchase and receive them by mail. Very often you can hear the terminology "murraya Dutch" and "our murraya". What does it mean?

In fact, both are the same species - Murraya paniculata, a synonym - Murraya exotica, the popular name is "Orange Jasmine". The plant got its name in honor of the 18th century Swedish botanist Johan Andreas Murray. And it is written in Latin - Murraya, hence the two letters "r" in the spelling of the name. But first, the second letter "r" began to be skipped in the name of Murraya - it's easier to pronounce it, and then it disappeared from the spelling of the name of the plant, which, of course, is not true.

From observations of numerous seedlings, I can say the following that they grow and develop in different ways - some grow compactly and bloom when the first pair of true leaves appear, others pretend to be Dutch, grow by leaps and bounds and do not think to bloom. In general, very capricious plants, the crown develops in different ways, although it is possible and necessary to form.

There is a variety of Murray "Min a Min" - in nature a very dense shrub no more than 1 m tall, the length of each leaf is about 1.5-2 cm. And of course, in its own way unique look Murraya chokeberry Murraya koenigii- its seeds can also be found commercially, the popular name is "curry tree" - its feathery leaves have more elongated than those of murraya paniculate leaves - lanceolate, pointed at the end with a crenate edge, are included in curry spice mixtures (leaves have a distant smell of turpentine ). The flowers are not white, but rather light cream, in many-flowered corymbs. And the berries turn black when ripe.

Murraya is a self-pollinating plant, the fruits are easily tied. After the berries ripen, the seeds are harvested and they can be sown.

Site note: among flower growers there is an opinion that "Dutch Murraya" is a straight plant, poorly branching with loose branches, its complex leaf consists of 7 - 11 leaves, and flowering for 5 years; in "our murray" the bush is compact, branches well, and the complex leaf consists of 3-7 leaves and seedlings bloom with very early age(for 2-3 months from germination). In fact, there is no such variety as "Dutch Murraya", there are various clones of the same plant. A bit of science:

The latest study, published in the American Society for Horticultural Science HorstScience "Direct Shoot Organogenesis in Murraya paniculata (L.) Jack: A Prerequisite for Genetic Transformation" in July 2013, was conducted to investigate whether there are differences between the leaves and flowers of Murraya paniculata (L.) Jack: various conditions. Plants were grown in vitro and under natural conditions, morphological and anatomical differences were also manifested in the growth rate and shape of the bush, leaf size, flowering rate. Therefore, if you want to get an exact clone of the plant you saw, it is advisable to purchase fruits or cuttings from the selected plant. Dutch and American (Logee's Plants for Home & Garden) suppliers have completely different clones.

Murraya paniculata seed sowing technology

Obtaining and preparing murray seeds

When the seeds ripen, it is better not to overdo it so that they do not start to rot right on the branches if they themselves do not fall off (this has never happened - never).

We eat or wash the pulp, freeing the seeds. If there are remnants of the pulp, we clean it carefully, rinse it in a strainer under running, warm water and place it in a depleted solution of Bordeaux liquid. It becomes depleted, in my case, due to the constant evaporation of moisture from the glass. Topping up with fresh water active substance, anyway, decreases with use. A glass of solution has been standing on a shelf in the bathroom for about a year, it has not lost activity, it just constantly precipitates - you have to mix it when using it.

Depleted solution of Bordeaux liquid - for soaking seeds

Murraya paniculata Russia - seeds in a greenhouse, 06/22/2016

V this example the seeds were aged in a fungicide - a day (there was simply no time for them). And so, in the evening they are soaked - at night, in the morning they are washed under running water and placed in a greenhouse on moistened foam rubber.

Sowing seeds

So, the seeds are preliminarily prepared - cleaned of pulp, washed under running water and soaked in a solution of Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol 2-3 hours, washed again and placed in a greenhouse for spitting roots. All this is done with the aim of visually rejecting low-quality (underdeveloped, rotten, empty) seeds. And so, you can sow all the seeds at once, without sorting, and, hopefully, out of 10 pieces, all 10 will germinate, however, it is not a fact that this will happen. Even viable seeds, for some reason, may not germinate - simply rotting in the ground.

It is noticed that if the seeds are green, then the roots peck quickly, if the seeds have beige shade, then a little longer, brown ones are not viable, they are already rotten and not developed. In such seeds, in the remainder, there are only outer and inner shells, the embryo itself, as a rule, is no longer there or it has rotted, or was very small.

Germination of seeds will take place in a greenhouse from a container, with a foam rubber insert inserted at the bottom, filled with water until this substrate is wetted and water appears on the surface - barely.

The greenhouse is heated, on a glass shelf, which in turn is in direct contact with the heated towel rail. The heating temperature is about 32-35°C. I note that for seeds; murray, citrus, tomato, pepper, pomegranate, fig, kiwi fruit, etc. this high heating temperature is quite acceptable and works well. It has been noticed that pecking of the roots occurs even faster if the greenhouses are removed from the heating at night and left in the same place, in the bathroom. Sown seeds with prickly roots can be placed in a room with a temperature of 26-28 ° C, under cover in the form of a greenhouse from an inverted cup, until the sprout hatches. At lower temperatures (below 24°C), sprouts appear a little later.

Murraya paniculata, heated greenhouse, 06/24/2016

Murraya paniculata Russia - roots hatched, 05/24/2016

Murraya paniculata Russia - seedlings, 25.05.2016

By the way, for seeds Japanese loquat- this temperature was too high. More than 1.5 months of standing on the heating, not a single one pecked at the spine. As soon as the hot water supply was turned off and the greenhouses moved to a room with an air temperature of 28-30 ° C, the roots immediately began to peck. Almost all the seeds have already been planted in individual cups, with shelter from an inverted cup, in the form of a greenhouse - so that the soil is not watered until germination and removal of the shelter.

Planting seeds in the ground

Roots peck in different ways, mainly in 3-4 days, up to 7 days. I plant them in plastic cups with a volume of 100-200 ml, at the bottom they have four cuts crosswise ( drainage holes). The cups are filled with a self-prepared soil mixture, of the approximate composition that is prepared for citrus fruits. The soil is watered until completely wet. This cup is inserted into a similar one, but without slots, or installed in a common tray (wide, large tray).

After disembarkation in 100-200 gram cups, and installation under the backlight, the cups are covered with caps. Thus, a greenhouse is created from inverted cups of the appropriate size. Constant humidity is maintained in the greenhouse, which contributes to faster germination of seeds and release from the outer shell. Also, the soil does not require additional watering and moistening, since its moisture is stored in the greenhouse.

Date of planting, pecked the root of the seed, in a 100 g cup

Murraya paniculata (Russia) first shoots 04.06.2016

Murraya paniculata - installing seedlings under lamps

In order not to accidentally injure the young root, a small depression is made in the moist soil (with a metal nail file) - the seed is inserted without any effort, slightly deepened relative to the ground level and with a nail file, the soil is pressed around the planted seed.

By the way, for planting citrus fruits, in 200 ml cups, I puncture the soil with the same nail file, almost to the very bottom. For planting medlar seeds, shaking the stuck nail file back and forth, I expand the hole. In principle, if you don’t bother, then the seeds can easily be stuck into the freshly moistened, and still quite loose in the upper layer, soil.

Murraya - crop care

In improvised greenhouses, the seeds stand until shoots appear. Glasses, usually at night, are shifted by 1/3-1/2 - for acclimatization. In the morning, before leaving for work, or, in the evening, the shelter is removed. You can play it safe and remove the shelter after 2-3 days.

At the first watering without shelter, it is mandatory to mulch (loosen) upper layer soil - so the water will not stagnate, and if the soil has dried up and managed to slightly lag behind the walls, then, after loosening the top layer with a small screwdriver, a stick, or the same nail file, you can slightly fill the voids around the perimeter of the container.

All the time in the greenhouse, cups with seedlings are in the general lighting of the room by numerous lighting fixtures that illuminate the plants.

Murraya paniculata - removal of the outer shell (06/04/2016)

Murraya sprout freed from the outer shell (06/04/2016)

If you see that the seed began to break through the outer shell, after about 7-14 days, then you can carefully remove it with tweezers without damaging the sprout (you can leave it as it is and wait for the sprout to break through the shell on its own).

As soon as the rupture of the outer shell of the seed is noticed. It can be carefully removed by first (additionally) moistening it with water from a spray bottle, so it will easily separate from the seed. In this case, the cap from the inverted cup is removed immediately.

Usually, I remove the shell myself, wet the sprout with a spray bottle, and remove the cap from the upside down cup - right away.

If this moment is missed, then there are several options for adapting a seedling sprout that has already developed in a greenhouse.

• Option 1, remove the cap for the night and moisten by sprinkling water from a spray bottle.
• Option 2, move the cap from the inverted glass of the greenhouse by 1.5-2 cm and soak for 1-2 days. Then, just remove the cap, you can spray, and again - at night.

Murray seedlings, freed from shells, are placed under lamps for further vegetation. Some stand under an ordinary 11W office fluorescent lamp, but a lot of light also falls from the nearby haze 2x35W + ESL105W - also nearby.

And in a month, young murrays will already grow (in my conditions, from freshly planted and prepared seeds):

Murraya paniculata, seedlings - a month, 05/26/2016

Flowering and fruiting murrayi

I have many copies of Murraya paniculata different ages, large plants and young, photo of murray from different bushes. Murraya Paniculata (Russia) - seed cycle in home cultivation:

Murraya paniculata (Russia) in buds, 17.03.2016

Murraya paniculata has faded and tied up, 05/20/2016

Murraya paniculata - one and adult bushes in bloom 03/18/2016

Murraya paniculata (Russia) - fruiting of an adult bush, 03/17/2016

Murraya paniculata - ripe fruits, 05/03/2016

Flowering of a young murray, 03/17/2016

The flower is ready for pollination - the pollen is ripe, 03/17/2016

Two seeds in the fruit - bloomed and tied - from the cradle, 05/20/2016

Another murraya blooms from the cradle, 05/20/2016

This murraya flower has not matured pollen, 05/20/2016

Murray pruning

Murraya is very responsive to a haircut, easy to shape. The only remark: you do not need to cut all the branches at once and carry out all activities exclusively during the growth season - from the end of winter to the end of summer. It is necessary to gradually shorten the ends of the shoots, this stimulates the growth of the crown. Layers can be made on long side ropes - rooting is better and faster than from a cutting.

You can form a murray with a bole - align one of the lower branches and desired height do pinching and trimming. I do not recommend cutting large branches immediately, they need to be shortened gradually. The stem is convenient in that at first the pot with the plant can be placed on a podium or a table by the window, and later, when the tree grows up, put it on the floor. The crown will just be at the level of the window, and there will be enough light.

By the way, if you are waiting for the fruits to ripen, and then you want to prune, then I assure you, nothing will work out. The fact is that murraya will not give you such a chance. Murraya constantly has buds, ovaries and fruits in the ripening stage. And for good nutrition, like other plants, murraya needs to save all the leaves that will nourish not only the plant itself, but also the fruits.

So you have to choose what you need. If for treatment, then you can cut off some old leaves, twigs that do not fit into the formation of the crown or buy at all - dutch specifically for medicinal purposes.

Site note: Scientific studies show that Murraya paniculata (like Koeninga) blooms and bears better in very good light. If you got a Dutch clone that is not inclined to be lanky and low-flowering or not blooming at all, it is worth trying to increase daylight hours to 16 hours a day. The light intensity is high, however, in the spring it is worth gradually accustoming to the sun to avoid burns.

Murray care

In young seedlings of murray, about to bloom, the buds must be pinched - it will grow faster and save strength (collect buds and petals in tincture or brew tea). Murraya will respond to such an action by re-setting the buds, they need to be pinched again. Thus, we do not let her set fruits until the vegetative mass is set - from about 15 to 25-30 cm in height.

top dressing

Young plants, about 10-15 cm tall, do not need to be fed, it is important to transfer them to slightly larger pots in a timely manner, after the roots have filled the entire volume of the provided soil (this can be seen in transparent plastic cups). I feed my murrays when the leaves indicate a lack of nutrition and when fruit is set. Murraya does not tolerate overfeeding, does not like fatty and heavy nutrient soils.

As for top dressing, I feed very rarely - "Flower Happiness" falls for citrus fruits at the time of gestation, since growth is hampered due to lack of space for large plants. And so, if it is correctly and on time to transship, 2-3 months after transplantation, I start top dressing: organic matter with macro-microelements (from LLC NPO "Force of Life" - Florist (Growth)) - at the time of active vegetation. As well as organo-mineral fertilizers "Emerald" from CJSC MNPP Fart - alternating them, taking into account the condition of the leaves and the season, in the spring - "Emerald", and the rest of the time "Growth".

At the time of fruit setting and gestation - fertilizer for citrus fruits - "Flower Happiness" from Fasco. They can also finish top dressing in the autumn - it has more potassium than other fertilizers. Top dressing is better to make, in a half dose, I prefer the last "Flower Happiness" from Fasco of all. Do not forget the main rule - "It is better not to overfeed than to overfeed!"

Watering

Murrayas love uniform moisture, they can normally endure drying with loss of turgor, but the drying of leaf plates (by about 2/3, especially old ones) can already lead to the final death of the plant. There were such cases, and therefore I speak from the practice of observations, irretrievably lost specimens, as well as those flooded with constant watering with insufficiently dried soil - anything can happen when there are a lot of them in small containers of 100-200 g cups.

Lighting

I have artificial lighting (lamp), completely diverse. They can also grow under 11W fluorescent, table, office lamps 7-10 cm from the crown. Can successfully grow under linear fluorescent lamps, in my case - also 60 cm from the window of the South-West direction. And also under ESL at 32W and 55W at a distance of 10-20 cm. And under ESL at 105W, with a distance of 20-30 cm.

But, murrays grow better in light shading in natural light. Without shading, the leaves fade to a yellow or whitish hue fairly quickly. Those. if you keep it on the “walk”, on the balcony, then it is better near the wall of the apartment, away from direct sunlight at noon, the morning sun is better, it is less active, relative to the evening, taking into account warming up the air and reducing humidity. If murraya is initially grown in natural light, then the leaves may not burn out, since they are already adapted to active solar insolation.

Text and photos: Yuri Alexandrovich Markin (nickname on the YUM forum)

Muraya is evergreen belonging to the Rutov family. Its natural habitat is the islands of Java and Sumatra, as well as the tropical forests of India. The green part of the plant is often used in cooking. The white flowers of this exquisite plant are somewhat reminiscent of jasmine.

Muraya care at home

Muraya is amazing plant. Life cycle indoor flower is long lasting. Muraya care depends entirely on the stage of its growth. At the very beginning of the life path, the development of a home tree is somewhat slow. Then, with the growth of the root system of the plant, there are more and more branches, they stretch out and form a chic lush crown. Muraya does not require care special efforts, but nevertheless has its own specifics. In one year, the plant is able to stretch several centimeters.

If the care of the plant is carried out in compliance with the requirements, then indoor flower will delight you and its beautiful appearance, and refined natural aroma.

Muraya lighting

Muraya, like many other "inhabitants" home garden favors sunlight. However, direct rays have a detrimental effect on the state of the flower. The leaves begin to lose their natural color, fall off. To prevent this process that is detrimental to the plant, you should immediately shade the indoor flower.

Important to remember! The perfect place for the location of muraya in room conditions, these are windows on the western or eastern side of the building.

Muraya, located on the south side of the house, should be shaded on hot summer days. If the indoor flower is placed from the northern part of the building, then it is necessary to provide additional lighting.

The ideal light for muraya is diffused.

Temperature regime

Muraya, like many other indoor plants, is sensitive to temperature regime in the room where it grows. Therefore, you should remember a few simple rules, thanks to which you can grow a healthy and beautiful plant in your home.

• V spring-summer period the temperature of growing a flower should range from +22 to +25 degrees. Many growers prefer to take the flower to fresh air in the warm season. Here it is worth being careful and not placing the muraya in the sun. In addition, with the onset of winter frosts, the plant should be brought back into the house.
• in winter Muraya will feel comfortable if the temperature in the room is set at +15 degrees. We understand that to adjust such conditions in the room, especially in the midst of heating season, it can be very, very difficult. But do not be afraid, because you can simply turn off the battery in the room where your winter Garden. Or place Muraya away from the battery central heating and perform illumination.

Important! Compliance with temperature conditions is very important for the normal cultivation of muraya. If these requirements are not met, then the houseplant will begin to hurt and fade.

Watering muraya

A bright representative of the Rutov family is very sensitive to soil moisture. Again, as with other indoor plants, the intensity and volume of watering is completely dependent on the season.

• in winter the plant should be watered episodically, focusing on the degree of drying of the topsoil. The volume and intensity of winter irrigation differs significantly from the summer regime.
• Summer Muraya should be watered often and plentifully.

The general rule of watering for any season: neither drought nor waterlogging of the soil should be allowed. Too frequent and excessive watering leads to the development of root rot. On the contrary, insufficient watering can lead to yellowing and leaf fall.

Irrigation water quality

Irrigation water plays one of the most significant roles in caring for an indoor flower. If the plant breeder does not pay enough attention to this point, then muraya will react negatively to the neglect of present moment: will begin to drop leaves, wither, lose their decorative properties.

Water requirements for irrigating muraya:

• it must be protected. Chlorine impurities have a detrimental effect on plant development;
• water should be taken exclusively soft;
• an alternative to (temporary) settled water can be artesian or boiled (chilled) water;
• water temperature for irrigation must be at room temperature. Systematic soil moistening cold water will lead to the death of the plant;
• to soften the water, you can add a little vinegar and citric acid to it.

Humidity in the room

It cannot be said that muraya is too demanding on the level of humidity in the room. If the actual level is somewhat lower than required by the growing conditions of the plant, there is nothing to worry about.

Worth remembering! Excessively dry air in the room can cause the flower stalks to fall and the leaves to dry in the muraya.

• So that Muraya does not lack moisture, it is worth regularly spraying it with a spray bottle. The requirements for the quality of water for spraying are the same as for water for watering plants. It should be at room temperature, settled and warm.
• To increase the humidity in the room will help an ordinary saucer of water, placed in close proximity to houseplant. You can also place a pallet with wet expanded clay next to the indoor flower. Another alternative is to use a humidifier.

Remember! It is especially important to monitor the desired level of humidity in the room during the heating season.

Soil for muraya

The brightest representative of the Rutov family prefers to grow in loose soil. The reaction should be slightly acidic. Many beginner growers often wonder how exactly you can cook good soil for muraya? If you have difficulties and you simply don’t know where exactly you can buy all the ingredients for preparing the earth, you can already purchase ready ground in a flower shop.

It is important! As a soil for growing muraya, land for citrus plants is suitable.

For self-preparation of the soil, we need the following ingredients:

• sod land (2 parts);
• leaf ground (2 parts);
• humus (1 part);
• coarse sand (1 part).

Muraya feeding

Muraya should be fed, like most other indoor plants, once a month. In the winter months, the flower should be fed much less frequently: about once every one and a half months. Muraya does not have a pronounced dormant period, therefore the plant should be fed year-round.

The basic principles of feeding muraya:

• Consistency. A houseplant should be fed regularly and in accordance with the time intervals allotted for this. Too frequent, or vice versa, insufficient nutrition of an indoor flower can lead to a slowdown in its growth, the development of diseases and even the death of the plant. Many growers note that it is better to underfeed a plant than to feed it too often. Excessive application of top dressing leads to a rare flowering of muraya and excessive growth of leaves.
• Complexity. You should not give preference to only one type of top dressing, completely excluding others. It is necessary to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers.
• High quality. Before applying any fertilizer, you should make sure that it is really of high quality. For example, as mineral fertilizer you can buy a Bonsai complex.

Muraya breeding

There are two ways to propagate a bright representative of the Rutov family:

• cuttings. To propagate the stalk, you should cut the lignified shoot in half. Then the cutting should be rooted. This can be done in earth, sand, or even water. Whatever you prefer, any environment should be carefully prepared. Water - to defend, sand and earth - to disinfect with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Rooting of cuttings occurs on average after three weeks. You should wait a bit, and then transplant the plant into a permanent pot.
• seeds. Many growers practice this method of reproduction at home. Seeds can be purchased at a flower shop. They will be already prepared for disembarkation or assembled by yourself. Comfortable temperature for planting - 20-25 degrees. The first shoots will appear in about 2-3 weeks.

Diseases and pests of muraya

News that will really please growers: Muraya gets sick very, very rarely. The main cause of root rot, wilting, drying and leaf fall is improper care. If all the recommendations that we have covered in this article are followed correctly, then the indoor flower will grow and delight its owners with a delightful appearance for many years.

Among the pests that regularly attack muraya include: scale insects and spider mite. As in the case of diseases, damage to a houseplant is quite rare. Flowers weakened by any factors are more likely to suffer. Control pests with insecticides.

In addition to its delightful decorative effect, muraya also has medicinal properties. It is able to increase the tone of the body, relieves fatigue, is used in the fight against coronary disease and hypertension. In addition, it is from the leaves of this "Indian princess" that one of the most popular spices, curry, is prepared. Exquisite muraya will delight not only with its wonderful appearance, healing properties, but also with a refined aroma.

Murraya is a perennial evergreen shrub of the Rutaceae family. These plants are common in Southeast Asia, India, the Pacific Islands, Sumatra and Java. The murraya plant got its name in honor of the famous 18th century botanist D. Murray.

Murraya is a small tree, the height of which reaches one and a half meters. The color of its bark is gray-white or with a yellowish tint. The color of its leaves is dark green. The use of its leaves in cooking is very common due to its citrus-lemon flavor. Murraya blooms with bewitching snow-white flowers and at the end an ovary appears in the form of small red berries resembling hawthorn fruits. Their taste is very piquant, with a pronounced sweetish aftertaste.

The remarkableness of this plant lies in the fact that in the same period flowers can bloom, young buds appear and berries ripen. Approaching this plant, you can hear its fragrance with light notes of jasmine aroma.

For gourmets of exotic plants, the murraya flower is a definite find. This unpretentious tree, reaching up to 1.5 meters at home, has a lush green crown, snow-white flowers and the presence of berries, the ripening of which occurs unevenly, due to which the color scheme of this flower is constantly changing. The color of ripe berries has a bloody scarlet color, which gives grace to this flower.

There are many legends about this amazing plant, which say that in ancient China, during the reign of emperors, the protection of this plant was equated with the protection of the owner himself. The main ability of this plant was that it could cure cancer, give youth and immortality. Touching the tender leaves, enjoying the wonderful smell of its flowers, tasting the infusion from its leaves, healing occurs not only for the body, but also for the soul.

Returning to our time, to breed this flower indoors, you need to know how to properly care for it and what conditions are most favorable for its growth. Experts say that there are 8 types of murray in the world. Only two types of this flower can grow at home, the external differences of which are insignificant - this is an exotic and paniculate murray.

Life expectancy in apartment conditions of this flower is long. The branches, stretching out, eventually form a lush crown, but due to the fragility of the shoots, the use of additional support is inevitable. The growth of murray is carried out primarily from the root system, and only after filling the entire pot with it, the rapid growth of the upper part of the plant begins, increasing every day within a few centimeters.

For a long time, the acquisition of this exotic flower was unrealistic for floriculture lovers. But now it can be purchased at almost any flower shop. Moreover, the bush will be of Dutch selection. The unpretentiousness of growth in apartment conditions is the main plus of home murray. Although it will take a long time for this variety to bloom.

Location and lighting

Murraya prefers diffused bright lighting. In summer, the plant can be exposed to fresh air, and in winter, the best place for its growth is a window on the west or east side. If there are none and all the windows are on the south side, then a prerequisite for murraya will be the need to shade them with a film or gauze, because it cannot stand direct sunlight.

Temperature

From spring to autumn the most optimum temperature for growing murrayi about 20-25 degrees. With the onset of autumn, it is desirable to slightly reduce the temperature of the content. In winter, it is desirable to keep the plant at a temperature of 16-17 degrees.

Air humidity

Murraya needs high humidity, so the flower needs daily spraying. Wash the leaves once a week warm water, and once a week the plant can arrange a warm shower. For additional moisture, a pot with a plant can be placed on a pallet with wet expanded clay or pebbles.

Watering

Murraya is very fond of watering and all kinds of water-related procedures (spraying, rubbing the leaves). In spring and summer, the flower needs abundant watering; in autumn and winter, watering is reduced. For irrigation, it is necessary to use settled water at room temperature.

Important!

The soil

Optimal soil composition for successful cultivation murrayi should consist of a mixture of store and ordinary earth with the addition of peat and sand. To ensure the safety of the plant from harmful microorganisms found in ordinary soil, it is necessary to disinfect it with special solutions (potassium permanganate is quite suitable for this).

Top dressings and fertilizers

From March to September, murraya needs to be fed with complex fertilizers 2 times a month, murraya will thank abundant flowering and a gorgeous green crown. You can alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.

Transfer

Young plants are best transplanted annually in the spring. Mature plants need to be transplanted every 2-3 years. The pot should be selected a little larger than the previous one.

Security good drainage- the key to excellent plant growth. It should occupy a third of the pot, preventing water from stagnating, in which the death of the flower is quite likely. When transplanting murray, you need to make sure that there is no deepening of the root neck of the plant, otherwise flowering and fruiting will stop.

Murraya usually does not need pinching. In order for the crown to grow evenly, the plant periodically needs to be turned to a light source. In the spring, before the start of the growing season, long shoots must be shortened by a third or even half. Shoots growing inward and thickening the crown must be cut.

Bloom

Young seedlings begin to bloom in the second year, but it is recommended to pluck the first buds to allow the plant to get stronger. Murraya blooms from early spring to late autumn with small, white flowers. After flowering, small round fruits-berries of a dark red color develop. Berries grow and ripen for about 4 months. On the murray bush, buds can be laid, flowers open, ovaries appear and fruits ripen at the same time.

Murraya can be propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Reproduction by cuttings

Murrayu cuttings are best propagated in early spring. Apical shoots are cut into cuttings. Shorten long leaves by half the length of the leaf to reduce evaporation. Root cuttings in a mixture of peat and sand, mixed in equal amounts. Peat can be replaced with leaf or humus soil. In addition, cuttings can be rooted in a peat tablet, perlite or in water.

The container with the handle is covered with a transparent plastic bag, a glass jar, or a cut plastic bottle and placed in a bright place. Periodically, the greenhouse is opened for ventilation. The soil temperature must be maintained within 26-30 degrees. The soil is kept moist.

After the cuttings take root, they are seated in separate small pots.

Reproduction by seeds

Murraya seeds are usually sown immediately after harvest or at any time of the year (germination persists for quite a long time). Before sowing, the seeds should be soaked for 1-2 hours in warm water. You do not need to use growth stimulants. Seeds are germinated in a mixture of peat and sand, mixed in equal amounts, or a peat tablet.

Seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil and covered with a 0.5-1 cm layer of substrate. The container with seeds is covered with transparent glass or a plastic bag. Periodically, the greenhouse must be ventilated. The soil temperature is maintained within 26-30 degrees. The seed bowl is provided with good lighting, but without direct sunlight. The substrate is kept moist. It is better to moisten the soil from the sprayer, while trying not to erode the topsoil.

Seeds germinate in 30-40 days. When the seedlings grow 2-3 full-fledged leaves, they are transplanted by picking into separate small pots. Seeds can be sown immediately in separate pots, then they will not need to dive.

Over time, when the root system completely fills the pot, muraya seedlings are transplanted into large pots. Seedlings grow slowly for the first two years, so a transplant may not be needed soon.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests appear with improper watering, lack of lighting and humidity. The greatest danger to the plant is the scale insect and spider mite.

Difficulties in growing

• With a lack of trace elements in the substrate or high alkalinity of the soil, the leaves become yellow in color.
• If the light is too bright or due to sunburn, the leaves dry out at the edges and in the center.
• If the air is too dry, the tips of the leaves dry out on the plant, and flower stalks fall off.

Summarizing the above, murraya is an absolutely unpretentious plant that can be grown at home even from a small seed or cuttings, and with good care and care, will give unforgettable impressions and good mood. Also, the flower has medicinal properties - murraya is used to treat many diseases.

Murraya - the rules for caring for an exotic flower (video)