Grow a peach seed in a pot. How to grow a peach seed in a home garden

Peach (Latin Prunus persica)- a plant of the subgenus Almond of the Pink family. Where the plant came from, there is no reliable data. In any case, it is known that the peach of David grows in the nature of Northern China, which is a wild form of the common peach. In culture, the tree is cultivated in warm regions, and China is the champion in industrial cultivation of peaches.

Planting and caring for a peach

• Landing: in areas with a cool climate - in spring (before the start of sap flow), in warm regions - in spring and autumn.
• Bloom: from mid-April.
• Lighting: bright sun.
• The soil: any well-drained.
• Watering: early varieties - on average 2-3 times per season, late - 5-6 times. Water consumption - from 2 to 5 buckets per tree, depending on age and size. Water the peaches early in the morning or in the evening. The first watering - in late May or early June, the second - in the first half of July, the third - in the first half of August. The soil is soaked with water to a depth of 60-70 cm. For the quality of the fruits, watering is important 3-4 weeks before harvesting: depending on the age of the tree, water consumption is from 30 to 60 liters. The next watering is only after harvesting. The last watering is sub-winter, October. Water consumption for water-charging irrigation is 90-100 liters for each square meter of the trunk circle.
• Top dressing: poor soils are fed annually with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, organic fertilizers are applied to the fertile soil once every 2-3 years.
• Cropping: sanitary and formative - in spring, between the beginning of sap flow and peach flowering. In the fall - pruning for sanitary purposes.
• Reproduction: seeds, grafting, cuttings.
• Pests: plum and oriental moths, aphids, scale insects, striped moths, flower-eating weevils, fruit and miner moths, spider mites.
• Diseases: clotterosporium disease, moniliosis, powdery mildew, leaf curl, coccomycosis, scab, fruit and gray rot, cytosporosis, milky shine, gum lesions, verticillosis, homoz (fungal burn).

Read more about growing peaches below.

Peach tree - description

The peach root system is located close to the surface - only at a depth of 20-50 cm. Peach trees reach an average height of 4 m, and their crown can grow up to 6 m in diameter. Peach leaves are lanceolate, finely toothed at the edges. The flowers are pink or red, almost sessile, open in mid to late April, before the leaves appear on the peach, so from a distance the blooming peach resembles sakura. Peach fruit, usually velvety, can be flat, rounded or elongated-elliptical with a groove on one side. The bone of the fruit is wrinkled, furrowed, with a pointed apex.

Peach trees begin to bear fruit in 2-4 years from the moment of planting, the fruiting period lasts 10-15 years. Peach, like mango and oranges, is one of the most delicious fruits with the finest aroma and refreshing taste. It is related to such fruit trees as almonds, from which it differs only in fruits, apricot, irga, quince, chokeberry, plum, mountain ash, hawthorn, wild rose, cotoneaster, apple, pear and medlar.

We offer you carefully selected material on how to grow a peach in your garden and how to properly care for a peach, how to process a peach from pests and diseases, how to fertilize a peach throughout the season and how to plant a peach if you have a desire to start breeding it ...

Planting a peach

When to plant a peach

Planting time for peaches depends on the climatic characteristics of your area. The further south you live, the more expedient it will be to plant a peach in the fall. In the northern regions, it is better to plant seedlings in open ground in the spring, so that during the spring-summer season the trees take root well and have time to grow. The conditions of the middle lane make it possible for both spring and autumn planting of a peach, but it is better to give preference to the latter.

For the peach, choose an elevated and protected from the wind, but sunny place on the south side of the site. Large trees, shrubs and buildings should not cover the seedling from the sun. Place the peach at least 3 m away from other plants. Do not plant peaches where strawberries, alfalfa, clover, nightshades and melons grew before it, as it can get verticillosis. After the listed plants, a peach can be planted on the site only after 3-4 years.

Planting a peach in spring

The pit for the seedling must be dug out in advance - the more time passes from digging the pit to planting a tree, the better the soil will be. If you are planning to plant a peach in the spring, prepare a pit for it in the fall, six months before planting. The depth of the pit depends on the size of the root system, but, as a rule, a hole for a seedling is dug with a diameter of 50-70 cm, its depth should be the same. A strong long peg of such a length is driven into the bottom of the pit in the center so that it protrudes at least half a meter above the surface level.

If the soil on the site is poor, the top layer of soil removed from the pit is mixed with rotted manure, humus or compost in an amount of 5-8 kg, 200-300 g of wood ash, 50 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium chloride are added and everything is mixed carefully. Only mineral fertilizers and ash are added to the fertile soil. The soil with additives is poured with a slide in the center of the pit.

When buying seedlings, it is worth asking how they are adapted to the area in which they will grow. Make sure that the place where the scion grows with the stock is smooth, without sagging. The peach bark and its root system must also be healthy - pinch off a piece of the bark: its inside should not be brown, but green. Examine the roots of the seedling carefully to make sure they are not dry or rotting. Annual peach seedlings take root best in the open field.

The tree is placed on a mound in the center of the pit, its roots are carefully straightened and the foundation pit is covered with soil. As a result, the vaccination site should be several centimeters above the surface of the site. The soil is trampled down from the edges of the trunk circle to the trunk, then the seedling is watered with two or three buckets of water. When the water is absorbed and the earth settles, tie the tree to a peg, and cover the near-stem circle with a layer of manure 8-10 cm thick. Make sure that the mulch does not come into contact with the stem of the seedling.

Planting a peach in autumn

A pit for a seedling is dug out at least 2-3 weeks before the autumn planting, but in the fall only ash and mineral fertilizers are mixed with the soil. The soil with fertilizers, as during the spring planting, is poured with a slide in the center of the pit around the peg. A peach is planted in the fall in the same way as in spring, but after planting and watering the seedling, when the soil dries up, the tree is spud up to a height of 20-30 cm, and on the eve of the onset of cold weather, the peach trunk is wrapped in burlap, having made holes for ventilation in it from the south side.

Peach care

Spring peach care

Peach care begins in mid-April: the first procedure is the processing of the tree along the swelling buds from the moth, aphids and other pests. Then you have to process the peach with a 3% Bordeaux liquid from fungi. On a pink bud, a peach is pruned to replace and treat fungi with preparations replacing the Bordeaux liquid, since it is impossible to spray a peach with copper-containing preparations during the active growing season.

After flowering, a combined treatment of trees from pests and diseases is carried out.

If the winter was snowless and the spring is dry, do not forget to water the peach in May.

Summer peach care

After the extra ovary falls off the tree, distribute the load of fruits on the tree: on each fruiting shoot, leave so many fruits so that there is one ovary for 8-10 cm in length, remove the rest of the fruits. Monitor the condition of the soil in the near-trunk circle - loosen the soil and remove weeds. The peach needs watering in summer, especially when there is a prolonged heat, but first wait for the seed to harden, otherwise the fruits will begin to crack. In order not to lose crops, treat the tree from diseases and pests.

Before harvesting the fruits, it is advisable to carry out 2-3 foliar feeding of the peach with potash fertilizers to increase the sugar in the fruits, which can be combined with treatment against pests and powdery mildew. Watering the peach is carried out no later than a month before harvesting - this will increase the size of the fruit by a third.

Peach care in autumn

A peach in August and September lays and forms flower buds, and their winter hardiness directly depends on the amount of moisture in the ground, therefore, moisture-charging peach irrigation is so important, which is carried out during these periods.

If you notice that your tree is often affected by fungal diseases, as a preventive measure in October, when the leaves begin to change color, treat the peach with a 3% Bordeaux liquid, and after falling leaves with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or 7% urea solution.

In the fall, organic and mineral fertilizers are embedded in the soil of the trunk circle, which should be enough for the tree until spring.

Watering the peach

The number of waterings during the growing season depends on weather conditions, but on average, early peach varieties are watered 2-3 times per season, and later ones - 5-6 times. For a session, from 2 to 5 buckets of water are consumed per tree. Watering is carried out in the early morning or evening. The first time the peach is watered at the beginning of June, and if the winter was without snow, and the spring was without rain, then it is better to water the plant at the end of May. The next watering is carried out in the first half of July, and the third - in the first half of August. Try to wet the soil to a root depth of 60-70 cm.

It is very important 3-4 weeks before harvesting to water, which will allow the fruits to gain mass. The amount of water for each square meter of the trunk circle is 30-60 liters, depending on the age of the tree. After that, until the very harvest, the peach cannot be watered, otherwise its fruits will become watery and lose their sugar content.

No less important is the winter watering of the peach, which saturates the soil with moisture and increases the winter hardiness of the tree. Water consumption for water-charging irrigation is 90-100 liters per m² of the trunk circle.

Peach feeding

Peach cultivation involves the annual application of fertilizers to the soil. The amount and composition of top dressing depends on the quality of the soil. For example, poor soils require annual application of both mineral fertilizers and organic matter, and organic fertilizers are applied to fertile soils once every 2-3 years. In conditions when it is necessary to frequently water the peach, the amount of applied fertilizers is increased, since they are washed out during watering.

The first spring feeding of a peach through still dormant buds can be processing the tree with a 7% urea solution: this measure will provide the plant with nitrogen and, moreover, destroy pathogens and insect pests that hibernated in the cracks of the bark and in the upper layer of the soil. Make sure the buds on the trees are still dormant before processing the peach, or the urea will burn them. If you are late, and the buds have begun to bloom, instead of processing on the leaves, dig up the soil in the peach trunks while simultaneously applying 70 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of urea per m² of the trunk circle under the young trees. The older the tree, the more fertilizers are needed per unit area: every 2-3 years, the dose of each fertilizer increases by 15-20 g.

In the summertime, it is better to apply fertilizers by foliar method. How to feed a peach during the period of growth and ripening of fruits? The culture reacts well to such a fertilizer composition: 100-150 g of an aqueous extract of superphosphate, 50-60 g of ammonium nitrate or 30-50 g of urea, 50-80 g of ammonium sulfate and 30-60 g of calcium chloride or 50-70 g of potassium sulfate, 15 g of manganese and 10 g of borax, dissolved in 10 liters of water. If the fruits on the peach are already ripening, exclude the nitrogen component and borax from this composition.

To achieve a more intense color and increase the sugar content of the fruits in the phase of their ripening, foliar dressing of the peach is carried out with a solution of 30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water.

In autumn, 40 g of superphosphate and 50 g of calcium chloride per m² are introduced into the soil under the digging of the trunk circle. Once every 2-3 years in the fall, organic fertilizers are added to the soil - humus or compost, but instead, green manures can be grown in the aisles - oil radish, rape, lupine or rapeseed.

Peach wintering

The peach is a thermophilic plant, and for the winter it needs to be covered: next to the trunk, two pegs are driven into the ground as high as a tree stem and wrap the trunk and pegs with a bag of sugar. You can make a box out of cardboard around the trunk and wrap it with plastic. If your winters are not too cold, sprinkle the peach stem with soil to a height of 50-60 cm.The trunk circle for the winter is mulched with a layer of peat or humus 10-15 cm thick.

Peach pruning

When to trim a peach

The best time to prune a peach is two to three weeks between the start of sap flow and the start of flowering. The easiest way for a plant to endure a haircut is from the beginning of the appearance of pink buds to the beginning of their opening - this is a period of time about a week. At this time, the risk of infection of the peach with cytosporosis is minimal. Sanitary pruning of the tree should be done after harvest.

The formation of the peach must be started from the first year of growth, and the formation will be completed only after four years. How necessary is formative crown pruning? First, it regulates the balance between the crown and the root system of the plant. Secondly, it keeps the tree healthy. Thirdly, it promotes earlier entry of the peach into fruiting, and also provides you with convenience when harvesting.

How to trim a peach

Peaches of different ages are pruned differently. The crown of a tree is usually shaped like a bowl. How it's done? In the year of planting, the seedling guide is cut at a height of 60-70 cm. The peach branch located above all should have a wide discharge angle. Select two more growths just below, located at the same angle, and cut all three branches to 10 cm at the outer buds. Cut off the rest of the shoots located on the trunk and conductor immediately after the buds open.

On skeletal branches of trees in the second year of life, it is important to maintain an optimal slope. Continuation growths are shortened to 60-70 cm. Strong upper and lower growths are removed, lateral growths are thinned out, and those that remain are shortened into two buds.

On the upper skeletal branch of trees of the third year of life, two powerful branches of the second order are selected and cut off to 60 cm from the bifurcation of the main branch. The part of the conductor that rises above the upper branch is cut off. The upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches are freed from powerful growths. Annual growths that have reached 80 cm in length are cut into two buds to form a fruit link. The lower shoot is pruned to 50 cm. On branches shortened by two buds last year, the upward growths are shortened for fruiting, and the lower ones by two buds. Fruit links will be formed from them next year.

In the fourth year of the peach's life, two successful third-order branches are selected on the second-order branches of the skeletal branches and shortened by a third of their original length. On the branches of the second order, the formation of fruit links is completed, and the increments on the branches of the third order are thinned out and some are cut shortly - into two buds, and the rest are not touched in order to use them as unstable fruit-bearing branches.

On fruit links of the first order, non-fruiting parts are removed. The branches of the lower growth cut short last year are cut into two buds located below. On the upper growths, 7-8 groups of buds are removed to stimulate future fruiting.

Spring peach pruning

Formative pruning, which we told you about, is carried out in the spring in order to give the crown a cup-shaped shape that is convenient for peach care and harvesting. But peach pruning also serves sanitary purposes: after spring, frozen, diseased or damaged branches can be found on the tree, which must be removed. After pruning, process the cuts with garden pitch.

Peach pruning in autumn

In autumn, trees are prepared for winter: they carefully cut off old, diseased, dry and damaged branches during harvesting, as well as those that grow inside the crown, thickening it: the tree should spend energy and nutrition only on healthy branches and shoots, which next year will give a harvest. Formative pruning is not done in the fall; there will be time for this in the spring.

In summer, the fruiting peach is not unnecessarily pruned.

Peach propagation

How to propagate a peach

Peaches are propagated by seed, grafting and grafting. It is possible to grow own-rooted peaches from cuttings only in the conditions of horticultural farms, since it is very difficult for an amateur to create the conditions necessary for rooting of cuttings.

Growing a peach from seed has some disadvantages: a seed-grown plant may not inherit the characteristics of the mother tree. In addition, it is not so easy to find a good seed: peaches are usually sold in stores and supermarkets, from the seeds of which it is difficult to grow something, and market peaches do not always meet the necessary requirements. It is best to take seed from the owners of healthy zoned peach trees, and then all that remains is to meticulously follow the instructions for growing peach from the stone developed by specialists.

There are disadvantages to the method of propagation of a peach by grafting. Firstly, it is not so easy to get the right stock, and if you grow it yourself, it will take at least a year. Secondly, it is necessary that there be compatibility between the tissues of the scion and rootstock, otherwise they will not grow together. Thirdly, you need to meticulously follow the instructions, otherwise the slightest mistake can nullify all your efforts.

Peach propagation by seeds

Seed propagation of a peach, in addition to its disadvantages, has undoubted advantages:

• self-rooted seedlings grown from stone live twice as long as grafted peaches;
• they are more resistant to droughts, cold weather, gum flow and other diseases;
• in some cases, self-rooted seedlings surpass their parents in many characteristics.

If you are eager to grow a peach from a seed, we are ready to tell you how to do it right.

Find an area for future peaches located no closer than 3-4 m from any mature trees, large bushes and premises. The place should be sunny, but at the same time protected from the cold winter winds. Planting is best done in October or November, so that the seeds in the ground over the winter undergo natural stratification.

Before planting, the bones are not soaked, on the contrary, they are dried in the shade and, carefully opening, the kernels are removed from them. A trench is dug at the site, filled with fertile loose soil, in which peach seeds are planted every 25-30 cm to a depth of 5-6 cm. After planting, the seeds are sealed and watered. Do not panic if you do not see shoots for a long time: first, a root will develop from a seed, and only then a sprout will appear. That is why the soil is poured into the trench soft and loose. At first, the site is watered daily.

When seedlings appear in the spring, they are fed with a weak solution of humus, and the seedlings are treated on the leaves with Ridomil or Tiovit preparations - also of weak concentration.

Peach seedlings are transplanted three times. The first time a peach, together with an earthen lump, needs to be dug out when 8-10 leaves are formed. The central root of the seedling is carefully cut 6 cm below the root collar, then the seedling is planted in its original place, after which the soil is compacted and watered around it.

The second transplant is carried out when the peaches reach a height of 90-100 cm.This is done in the spring, before the sap flow begins: the seedlings are dug around the perimeter at a distance of 25-30 cm from the stems and, having taken them out together with an earthen lump, are transplanted, swapping with each other.

The third time the peaches, when they grow up and get strong enough, are transplanted to a permanent place.

Peach grafting

Peach is a crop with limited winter hardiness, but it tolerates drought well - this is one of its indisputable advantages. You can plant a varietal peach using an apricot, plum, almond or quince seedling as a rootstock. The grafting technology on any of these rootstocks is the same: you should prepare a cutting of the variety you need in advance and graft it on a one-year or two-year-old seedling of one of the listed crops.

Cuttings are harvested at the end of autumn before the onset of frosts, they are stored in a cellar or in a garden, covered with warm material, and covered with a 20 cm thick layer of sawdust on top.As soon as it gets warmer, the cuttings are transferred to the vegetable box of the refrigerator. Vaccination is carried out in the spring, after the start of sap flow.

As a stock, you can use both peach seedlings grown from seed, and wild animals of the crops listed by us, the thickness of which is at least 1.5 cm. The stock is cut to the desired height, it is checked that the bark is smooth and without buds. The methods of grafting, depending on whether the thickness of the scion matches the thickness of the rootstock, can be as follows: bud, cuttings or split.

Peach disease

Diseases and pests of the peach can greatly complicate the life of both him and you. Diseases of the peach are innumerable - this is one of the disadvantages of the culture. Let's talk about those diseases that are most common and are the most dangerous for the plant.

Clasterosporium disease- the most harmful fungal disease of peach, which also affects nectarine. All terrestrial organs of the tree suffer from this disease. Light brown spots with a raspberry or dirty red border appear on the leaves, the tissue inside the spots dries up, dies off and falls out, leaving holes, which is why clasterosporia is often called perforated spot. The bark of young shoots of annual seedlings is covered with orange varnished spots, which spread in length along the fibers, the bark cracks, and gum is released from the cracks. Affected shoots die off, the peach dries up.

Curliness of leaves. This is perhaps the most dangerous disease for a peach, which most often occurs in a prolonged and damp spring. The leaves of the diseased tree become covered with reddish swellings, their surface becomes uneven, wavy, they swell, a white bloom forms on the underside of the leaf plate, the leaves turn brown and fall off. Shoots become bare, taking on the appearance of a lion's tail with leaves instead of a brush at the end, curved, thickened and yellowed. If you do not fight curliness, the peach will begin to lag behind in development and eventually die.

Powdery mildew forms a white felt bloom on the underside of leaves, on the upper part of the shoots of the current year and on fruits. Shoots begin to lag behind in growth, deform, partially die off. The first symptoms of the disease appear from late April to mid-May, and the disease reaches its maximum development in the very heat - in the middle of summer.

Moniliosis stone fruits are a common disease, from which the shoots and individual branches dry out, dark spots appear and grow on the fruits of the peach, the flesh of the fruit becomes brown, rotten peaches wrinkle and dry. A healthy fetus can contract moniliosis from a sick person.

Peach processing

Peach treatment for clasterosporium disease is carried out for the first time with copper oxychloride or Meteor during the period of swelling of the kidneys, but you need to have time to carry it out before they begin to open. The following treatments are carried out before and after flowering with Horus or Topsin M preparations in accordance with the instructions. In the spring, before flowering, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and shoots by treating the sections with an eight percent solution of lime with the addition of a two percent solution of iron or copper sulfate, after which the sections must be covered with garden varnish.

If you determine that the peach is struck by curliness, after harvest, when leaves begin to fall, treat the tree with copper oxychloride or Meteor. In early spring and at the beginning of the appearance of pink buds, the peach is treated with the same copper-containing preparations that can be replaced with Horus or Skor with the addition of Delan. Diseased leaves and shoots are cut and burned before sporulation begins.

To protect against powdery mildew, the peach at the end of flowering is treated with Topaz, Topsin M, Skor, Vectra or Strobi. As preventive measures, spring and autumn pruning of diseased shoots with their subsequent burning, collection and destruction of fallen leaves and fruits, and digging of soil in near-stem circles are very important.

From moniliosis, the peach will have to be treated three times: with Horus before flowering, in the pink bud phase, with Topaz after flowering and Topsin two weeks after the second treatment. Disease-damaged areas are cut and destroyed.

In addition to the diseases described, peach can suffer from coccomycosis, scab, fruit or gray rot, cytosporosis, milky shine, gum decay, verticillus, homoz or fungal burn.

Peach pests

Eastern and plum moth- small butterflies that use the peach to feed their offspring and as a wintering place. Caterpillars of butterflies eat young peach shoots, adults feed on the seeds of its fruit. Insects spend the winter cold in cocoons in cracks in the peach bark or under fallen leaves in the trunk circle.

Ways to fight. To rid the peach of the moth will help you three times treating the tree with insecticides such as Chlorophos, Metaphos, Karbofos or Durban. The interval between sessions is 2 weeks.

Ways to fight. As long as there are not too many aphids, they can be removed mechanically by wiping the affected areas with soapy water. But if you overlooked the appearance of aphids, and she managed to breed, treat the peach with Karbofos, Aktellik or any other similar preparation. The processing may have to be repeated. The interval between sessions is 10-14 days. The last treatment is carried out no later than 2-3 weeks before harvest.

Shield damages all ground parts of the peach: a day after the pest sucks, red spots appear on the bark and fruits. Scabbards deplete the tree by populating skeletal branches, shoot tips and trunk. At the tree on which the scale insects settle, the bark cracks and dies off, the foliage falls off prematurely, the growths dry out, the fruits become smaller and deformed.

Ways to fight. In the fight against scabies, peach treatments are effective with drugs such as Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Inta-vir or Mospilan in accordance with the instructions. Of the folk remedies, the most famous are pepper tincture or onion water, but they are ineffective.

Striped moth no less dangerous pest. Its caterpillars bite into the buds and young shoots, eating away at the core, causing the affected areas to dry out and die. Fruits damaged in the area of ​​the stalk are draining gum. One caterpillar can damage 3 to 5 shoots.

Ways to fight. During bud break, treat the peach with Karbofos, Chlorophos or Zolon. Recognize and cut out damaged shoots in time and burn them.

Flower-eating weevils, fruit and miner moths, ticks and other harmful insects can also be dangerous for peaches.

Peach varieties

Peach subspecies

The Peach species is divided into several subspecies:

• peach- we gave its description at the beginning of the article;
• peach (or almond) Potanin- a low-growing tree, reaching a height of 2 m, with reddish bark, large white or pink flowers and rounded fruits with an elongated stone, unsuitable for food. This type of peach is found only in the nature of China. Since the fruits of this subspecies do not represent nutritional value, it is not grown in culture;
• peach of david- a tree that grows up to 3 m in height. The fruits of this subspecies are small, with a dry pericarp and slightly juicy sweet-sour pulp, therefore, David's peach is grown mainly for decorative purposes;
• gasuan peach native to the wild in China. This is a medium-sized tree with a height of 3-4 m, it looks very impressive during flowering, when it is covered with small pink and white flowers. The fruits of this peach with low palatability are small, round, yellowish, with hard white flesh. This subspecies serves as the basis for breeding valuable varieties of common peach, endowing them with its disease resistance and frost resistance;
• peach peace- a wild, tall-growing oriental subspecies, reaching a height of 8 m, with spherical fruits of low palatability. Does not represent value for cultivation;
• nectarine very similar to a peach. Its main difference is its smooth, slippery skin. The color of nectarine can be yellow, white or yellow-red. The pulp of the fruit is juicy, yellow, not as sweet as that of a peach, but the seeds in the seeds are just sweet, they can be used as almond kernels;
• some scientists also distinguish into a separate subspecies fig peach, or Fergana, which is a tree up to 5 m high with a wide spreading crown. This subspecies has nothing to do with figs. The fruits of the fig peach are round and flattened, with a depressed apex. The peel is slightly pubescent, dense, yellow with a greenish tint. The pulp is light yellow, fibrous, sweet and aromatic. The bone is small. The advantage of the variety is resistance to freezing of buds and buds.

Peach varieties

Today there are many varieties of peach, the fruits of which differ in shape, size, aroma, taste, color and texture of the skin and pulp.

By the type of fruit, peaches are divided into four classes:

• real peaches are velvety fruits, the pulp of which is easily separated from the stone;
• pavia - velvety fruits, the pulp of which does not separate from the stone;
• nectarines - naked fruits, the pulp of which is easily separated from the stone;
• brunions are naked fruits in which the flesh does not separate from the stone.

According to the color of the fruit, the varieties of peaches are divided into:

• yellow (In memory of Rodionov, Solnechny, Donetsk yellow, Glo Haven and Bohun);
• red (Suncrest, Harmony, Krasnodarets);
• green (Juicy, Grisborough).

The best varieties of nectarine include Bountiful, Pink Princess, Autumn Blush, Rylines, Skif, Lola. And the best winter-hardy varieties of nectarine are Skif, Krasnodarets, Fodor, Lyubimets 1 and Lyubimets 2.

According to the ripening period, peach varieties are divided into early, mid-season and late.

Early peach varieties

The best varieties of early ripening peach include the following:

• Morettini- a very early self-pollinating early-growing variety of Italian selection, which begins to bear fruit in 2-3 years after planting. The yield of this variety is up to 30 kg per tree. Fruits of medium size, weighing up to 115 g, are covered with a bright yellow, gently pubescent skin with a bright red blush in the form of spots and dots, occupying 60% of the fruit surface. The pulp is yellow-creamy, aromatic, juicy, with delicate fibers. Medium stone is difficult to separate from the pulp;
• Velvety- a medium-sized fruitful variety with medium and large fruits weighing up to 140 g, rounded, bright yellow in color with a carmine blush, almost completely covering the surface. Fruit pubescence is weak, suede. Very juicy flesh of golden yellow color with delicate fibers of excellent taste. A small bone does not separate well from the pulp;
• Kiev early- early ripening, winter-hardy and high-yielding variety of Ukrainian selection, undemanding to growing conditions. Roundedly elongated light yellow fruits of medium size weighing up to 100 g can sometimes be covered with a bright blush. Fruit pulp is greenish-white, juicy, tasty;
• Redhaven- a variety resistant to frost and curl with large fruits weighing up to 150 g, orange-yellow in color with red spots and specks. The pulp is yellow, tender, very aromatic. Unfortunately, trees of this variety, if agricultural technology is not followed, are attacked by fungi;
• Collins- winter-hardy and fruitful variety, resistant to powdery mildew and curliness, with pubescent fruits weighing up to 150 g, red-yellow color, sweet taste with pleasant sourness. This variety requires careful maintenance - frequent feeding, watering and timely pruning.

In addition to those described, such varieties as Forest-Steppe Early, Juicy, Fluffy Early, Memory of Rodionov, Greensboro, Novoselovsky, May Flower, Arp, Early Rivers, Domestic, Excellent, Red Bird Kling and others are popular.

Medium peach varieties

Of the medium-ripening peach varieties, the following are most often grown:

• Veteran- a winter-hardy high-yielding variety of Canadian selection with rounded, slightly pubescent fruits weighing up to 130 g of yellow color with a red blush covering a significant part of the surface. The pulp of the fruit is yellow, medium density, juicy, aromatic, sour-sweet. The bone is easily separated from the pulp. The variety is resistant to powdery mildew;
• Ambassador of Peace- winter-hardy self-fertile fruitful variety with very large fruits weighing up to 220 g of yellow carmine color with dense yellow, juicy, fibrous pulp of a pleasant taste, which is poorly separated from the stone. Peaches of this variety ripen in mid-August;
• nectarine Krasnodarets- a variety with small, rounded fruits with a barely noticeable seam, weighing up to 50 g, yellow in color with a bright red blush, consisting of dots and stripes. The skin of the fruits of this variety is smooth, without pubescence. The pulp is yellow, juicy, tasty, with delicate fibers;
• Soviet- a variety zoned for the southern regions of Ukraine with oval-blunt fruits weighing up to 170 g, slightly compressed from the sides. The skin is medium velvety, yellow with a carmine blush. The pulp is yellow, medium-fiber, very juicy and aromatic. Medium-sized stone is easily separated from the pulp;
• friendship- a winter-hardy variety derived from Chinese material, with rounded fruits weighing from 140 to 250 g with a ribbed abdominal seam. The skin is soft and elastic, with barely noticeable pubescence, creamy yellow, with a blush of dots and red streaks. The pulp is creamy white, sweet and very juicy, easily separated from the stone.

Of interest are also mid-season peach varieties White Swan, Golden Jubilee, Champion, Dakota, Tuscany Kling, Double Mountain, New Yielding, Fine, Pineapple Nectarine, Salami and others.

Late peach varieties

There are not so many late varieties of peach as there are early and mid-season ones, but for a thermophilic culture this is in the order of things. The best of the late varieties are:

• Jaminat- high-yielding variety with elongated fruits, slightly compressed from the sides, bright yellow in color with marble red. Bright orange pulp of medium density, very juicy and sweet, with a barely noticeable sourish aftertaste. The stone separates well from the pulp;
• Irganai late- a frost-resistant variety with rounded fruits weighing up to 160 g. Skin with suede pubescence, bright yellow, with beautiful red spots. The pulp is yellow-orange, sweet, non-fibrous. A small bone separates well from the pulp. The variety is not resistant to clotterosporia and curl;
• Kremlin- a productive variety, zoned for the Crimea and southern Ukraine, with rounded fruits weighing up to 200 g with yellow-orange skin and marbled carmine-burgundy blush occupying a significant part of the surface. The skin is softly pubescent. Orange-yellow aromatic pulp of medium density and juiciness with a very pleasant taste, easily separates from a small stone;
• Golden Moscow- a winter-hardy high-yielding variety with fruits weighing up to 180 g, bright yellow base color and a blurred red blush covering most of the fruit. The pubescence of the skin is weak, velvety. The pulp is yellow, fragrant, dense, of medium juiciness, well off the stone;
• Tourist- a relatively winter-hardy variety, zoned for the Crimea and southern Ukraine, with fruits of a rounded wide-oval shape weighing up to 200 g, greenish-cream color with a blurred burgundy blush, occupying up to half of the fruit surface. The pubescence of the skin is weak, suede. Greenish-white fibrous pulp, medium density, juicy and aromatic, sweet taste with slight sourness. The large bone separates well from the pulp.

Aidinovskiy oblong, Champion late, Khudistavskiy late yellow, Geokchayskiy late, Oktyabrskiy and others also have good characteristics of their late peach varieties.

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Growing a peach on your own site will not be difficult if you organize the right care for it. At the same time, many gardeners often ask themselves the question of how to grow a peach from a stone in the country, and how such a procedure is performed. In fact, getting a new seedling from a seed will not be difficult, as well as growing it in the future.

Moreover, a sprout grown with your own hands will be resistant to frost and many diseases. So, and how to properly organize his care and consider below.

The optimal timing for planting a peach

First of all, it is worth highlighting that the successful cultivation of a peach directly depends on the timing of its planting in open ground. As a rule, if you live in the southern regions, then you can plant a culture not only in the spring, but also in the fall. Moreover, an autumn planting would even be preferable.

But if your region of residence is colder, then the best option would be to postpone planting in the spring. In this case, the sprout will have time to adapt and strengthen its own root system, due to which the first winter will not negatively affect the culture.

As for the timing of planting, then, as a rule, in the spring, the crop is planted in April. But in the autumn, all planting work should be completed by mid-September.

Choosing a landing site

In order to successfully grow a peach tree, it is necessary to choose the right zone where this crop will grow, namely:

• this plant loves sunny southern places;
• peaches should not be planted next to strawberries and nightshade crops;
• if you are planting several peaches, then the distance between them should be at least 3 meters;
• the soil should not be clayey or marshy.

And one more point that should also be taken into account. When the peach crop is mature, it should not be shaded by various buildings. The fact is that this tree loves sunlight, which is very important for its full development.

Preparing the seeds

To get young and strong sprouts from this crop, you should always take into account the peculiarities of growing peaches. For example, seeds obtained from store-bought fruits are not suitable for seedlings. The fact is that they are harvested at a time when the fruits are barely beginning to ripen. Therefore, the seed of such a peach will probably not have time to fully ripen.

The best option would be to choose the fruits you like on the market, as they say, from hand. At the same time, keep in mind that if you buy peaches from the owner, he will probably tell you all the characteristics about a fruit-bearing tree, and also give recommendations for caring for the resulting planting material.

So, the peaches are bought, and the seeds are taken out of the fruit. Naturally, an urgent question arises, what to do next? First, prepare the seed. It should be noted that regardless of how you plan to grow the crop in the future. In other words, peaches will grow in a greenhouse or in an open field, seed preparation is performed in the same way, namely:

• the bones are removed and washed thoroughly so that there is no pulp left;
• then, the resulting seed should be thoroughly dried at room temperature;
• further, to carry out stratification;
• and just before planting, the bones will need to be soaked in water.

And now it is worth considering all the stages of preparing the bones in more detail. Today there are many ways how to get a strong and full-fledged sprout from a bone. But below we will consider the simplest and most accessible method.

So how to get a seedling:

• well-dried peach seeds are sent to the refrigerator for a week;
• after that, they are planted in a pot with pre-prepared soil to a depth of 7 cm;
• germination of the material is carried out in the light;
• the container where the seed was planted is covered with polyethylene or glass to create a greenhouse effect;
• every day, glass or polyethylene is removed for an hour to ventilate the pot and remove accumulated condensation.

At the same time, keep in mind that this culture is moisture-loving, but it does not tolerate stagnant water. Therefore, before planting the seeds, make sure that small holes are made at the bottom of the pots to remove excess water.

As a rule, the first shoots will begin to appear in at least three months. Therefore, when you see the first leaves, glass or plastic must be removed. From this moment, the young growth will be intensive.

Another important point to consider when planting peach seeds. First of all, the soil must be nutritious so that the sprout can fully develop. It is also very important to regularly moisten the soil so that it does not dry out.

Preparing the landing area

If you plant peach pits around October, then by April the young will be ready to be transplanted into open soil. Therefore, you should take care of the place for the future tree in advance. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a place in the front garden in the fall by following these steps:

• the area for the future peach should be cleared of weeds;
• further, it is necessary to dig up the soil and fertilize it with organic matter.

After completing all the procedures, the site is left until spring. And in the spring, when there are at least six leaves on the shoots, it is moved to open ground.

Disembarkation process

In order to get a harvest from the grown sprouts in the future, the seedlings must be hardened before planting. To do this, from mid-April, pots with sprouts begin to be taken out into the street. First, the seedlings are left for an hour, then the time the plant is outside is gradually increased. Well, when the peaches are hardened, they are planted in open soil. This will require the following steps:

• dig a hole and fill it with warm water;
• then put a layer of broken red brick and a layer of rotted humus mixed with the ground on the bottom of the pit;
• further, a seedling is lowered into the hole along with the earth from the pot in which it grew;
• then the sprout is carefully covered with earth and trampled.

Having planted a future tree, it must be covered for the first time at night. For this, you can use glass containers.

Care after planting in spring

It is worth noting that if the winter turned out to be poor on snow, and there was practically no precipitation in spring, it is necessary to water the young tree abundantly in May.

Summer care

With the arrival of summer, caring for a peach crop comes down to performing simple manipulations, such as:

• the soil around the trunk circle is loosened and cleaned of weeds;
• if the weather is hot outside, the tree should be thoroughly moistened;
• starting from June, peach feeding is mandatory with nitrogen means.

Autumn care

Towards September, the peach begins to form flower buds for the next growing season. And in this case, it depends on their successful wintering whether your culture will bloom next year. And in order for the peach to overwinter and please with flowering the next year, the tree must be prepared for the upcoming wintering.

Well, as for pruning, then, first of all, in the second year of peach growth, it is not pruned. Well, in the case when such a manipulation is necessary, then it is better to carry it out in the spring. In general, after planting a seed sprout, they try not to touch it for the first two years, thus giving time to strengthen the root system.

Preparing the plant for wintering

In the first year of planting a seedling, it is very important to properly cover it for the winter. Naturally, this manipulation is also important for mature trees. But for the young, it is simply vital. Therefore, insulation should be treated very responsibly.

So what kind of care should be arranged and what it will take. As a rule, two wooden slats and a large cardboard box are used to shelter this culture.

And they perform this manipulation as follows:

• first, planks are installed around the culture;
• then a box or burlap is pulled over them, which is more convenient;
• further, dry hay or straw is poured into the resulting space between the tree and the sacking;
• and the final stage, as soon as the snow falls, you need to cover it with snow from above.

The resulting shelter will easily preserve your culture until spring. And next year, the peach will surely please with its intensive growth.

By the way, it is worth noting that most novice gardeners are interested in if the planting material was obtained from the seed, then after how many years the peach begins to bear fruit. In this case, it all depends on the mother tree and on how well the care was organized.

With good care, the culture will begin to produce fragrant peaches as early as 4 years after planting the sprout. Moreover, the plant will be several times more resistant to various diseases, in contrast to the mother tree.

Correct and feeding crop moisture

Separately, it is worth highlighting such a moment as watering a peach. The fact is that this southern inhabitant is very hygrophilous. But at the same time, he does not tolerate stagnation of water. As a rule, in order for fruiting to be generous, irrigation should be performed as follows:

1. The first moistening is carried out at the end of May, after which this crop should be fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. The next watering is done in mid-July. After abundant moisture, they are fed with potash fertilizers.
3. The third time the peach is watered by the end of August, and then phosphate fertilizers are applied.
4. And the last watering is performed at the end of September, along with it, organic matter is introduced into the soil. A tree fertilized in this way will have good immunity, which will give it the opportunity to overwinter even in the most severe frosts.

It should be noted that the number of irrigations can be increased if the summer is very hot and scarce in precipitation. In this case, the gardener must control the condition of the soil itself.

To do this, you can stock up on a so-called probe, with which it is easy to check the condition of the soil.

If the ground is more than 10 cm dry, then peach trees need to be urgently taken up and watered abundantly.

Well, as for the amount of water, then, as a rule, for one adult tree, at least 30 liters of warm, settled water is required. And one more point, which is also very important. The start time for watering should fall in the evening so that the sun does not burn the watered culture.

Conclusion

As you can see from all of the above, it will not be difficult to grow a peach from a stone. But at the same time, it is very important to properly care for the seedling and in this case it will certainly delight you with delicious fruits.

Gardeners are inquisitive people, thanks to this quality of enthusiastic people, we observe an abundance of species of domestic plants, because most modern Russian varieties have appeared over many generations. Gardeners have already mastered the process of growing peaches quite well, frost-resistant varieties have appeared that can withstand the harsh climatic conditions on the site.

Pros and cons of growing peaches from seed

Advantages of peach bone propagation:

• It is easy to get a peach seed and everyone can try their hand at growing a tree.
• Home-grown peach is initially highly adaptable to the Russian climate.

The disadvantages include:

• Pitted peaches are more likely to lose their varietal qualities.
• There is a great risk that the tree may not bear fruit for the first few years, there are often cases when the peach does not bear fruit at all and simply performs a decorative function.

What seeds are suitable for planting?

Experienced gardeners know that choosing the right planting material is half the battle. Only fully ripe peaches are selected. In fact, the bone is a lignified pericarp. Peeled from the pulp, washed thoroughly and dried. Store the future planting material in a dry and cool place.

Peaches are grown closer to where the tree is planned to be planted.

Store fruits are unsuitable for planting due to the following reasons:

• Peaches bring from southern countries.
• Fruits are harvested at the stage of technical ripeness, for long-term transportation of products. In this case, the nucleoli inside remain immature.
• Are processed with various kinds of chemical compounds to extend the shelf life. Substances negatively affect the bones, in particular, they become quite fragile and crack.
• You can grow a seedling from any fruit, but he will not adapt to the climate and will die after landing in the ground.
• Acquire peach fruits grown in Russia or neighboring states for future planting material.

Preparing the seed for germination

Before planting, prepare the planting material.

The preparation process includes the following stages:

Growing methods at home

At the initial stage, the main task is to obtain a sprout from a peach pit. Gardeners achieve the desired result in a variety of ways. There are three widespread methods, which we will consider in detail.

Cold way

Warm way

Cold seed germination steps:

1. Place the bone in the refrigerator before planting., for several days.
2. The planting of the bone is also carried out to a depth of about 7 centimeters., while germination occurs at normal room temperature and normal lighting.
3. The pot in which the material is planted is constantly covered transparent material, such as glass, to simulate a greenhouse.
4. Glass must be removed daily to ventilate the soil and remove condensation accumulated on the covering material.
5. Peach loves moisture, but at the same time does not tolerate stagnation, therefore, several holes must be made in the bottom of the container into which the bone is planted.

Fast way

The method does not provide for stratification:

Care of young sprouts of a peach tree

In order for the peaches to gain sufficient strength, favorable conditions are created. Seed germination is very low, and therefore it is recommended to plant several seeds at once.

How to care for sprouts:

• The soil... Optimal for germination is a soil made of peat, humus, sand and leafy soil. At the same time, they constantly maintain sufficient moisture and do not allow the soil to dry out. Additionally loosen.
• Lighting... Like any other plant, the peach tree needs a lot of light. If sufficient sunlight cannot be provided, additional sources are used. It even gives an acceleration in plant growth.
• Temperature regime... The optimum temperature for the plant varies depending on the season. So, in winter, they maintain about 2-4 degrees above zero. In spring, during the flowering period of the plant, the temperature is about +12 degrees. After flowering, the ambient temperature is raised to about +22 degrees. Do not forget that in winter they arrange the so-called dormant period, during which watering is significantly reduced and additional lighting is removed. Standard care resumes after the buds open.
• Fertilizer and feeding... For rapid growth, the tree is provided with additional sources of nutrition through the addition of organic fertilizers. They start in spring every two weeks. Since September, the process of fertilizing the plants is stopped.
• Transfer... In the process of growth, the plant will have little space, and will need to be transplanted into a larger pot. It is best to do this in early spring before flowering begins, or in the fall, at the beginning.
• Pruning... An item that is neglected by a fairly large number of people. The formation of the crown must begin when lateral shoots appear and the main trunk reaches a height of seventy centimeters.

Transplanting a seedling into open ground

Another crucial stage is directly landing in the ground. As a rule, in the first year, a young peach tree sapling grows up to one and a half meters in height. In the second year, in September, trees are planted in the garden.

It is important to choose the right place where the tree will be placed, success largely depends on this:

• High-quality illumination is required the sun's rays, but at the same time the place is sufficiently closed from strong winds.
• The dimensions of the future tree are taken into account. The peach tree is planted at least 3 meters away from other trees and any buildings.

How to transplant correctly so that the peach tree grows actively:

If you follow the rules described above, the peach tree will take root in the country and will delight you with delicious fruits.

Care after landing

The peach will require special attention in the first few years after planting outdoors. This is due to low adaptation to harsh climatic conditions.

In general, we will give the following tips:

• For the period of cold weather, a young peach harbor burlap and other non-woven material. The barrel is insulated with glass wool.
• It is recommended to constantly trim dried and cracked shoots.

Let's dwell on some points in detail.

Regarding watering the peach tree, note:

• During the season the peach tree is watered about five times.
• In one go about two to five buckets of water are poured out.
• It is recommended to water the plants in the early morning or evening. The first time watering is done at the end of May, the second in July, the third is mandatory in mid-August. The rest of the watering is done as needed.
• Additional watering carried out about twenty days before harvest, this is done so that the peaches can gain sufficient weight.
• Final winter watering- about ten buckets of water are poured out per square meter of the near-barrel space.

Fertilizer

Peach requires organic and mineral fertilizers. During periods of drought, when watering is plentiful, much more fertilizer will be required. This is due to the fact that top dressing is washed out during watering.

Fertilization instructions:

Treatment against pests and diseases

The most common diseases:

• Clasterosporium disease- a dangerous fungal infection. When it spreads, living leaf tissues die off, and cracks appear on the bark.
• Curly leaves- the disease is fatal for the plant. It actively develops in damp conditions. The leaves are covered with reddish-brown swellings and soon begin to fall off. The tree stops growing and dies.
• Moniliosis- the disease is widespread among stone fruit crops. A characteristic feature is the drying of the shoots and the appearance of brown spots on the surface of the fruit.

A serious drawback of the peach tree is its low level of disease resistance.

To combat diseases, drugs are used:

• Horus;
• "Topaz";
• Topsin M;
• "Vectra";
• Strobe.

If we talk about pests, then, as a rule, ticks, aphids and thrips attack the peach tree.

To combat them, use:

• "Karbofos";
• Actellik;
• Fitoverm;
• "Zolon".

Conclusion

Growing a fruitful peach tree from a seed is quite difficult, and requires a certain amount of knowledge and experience from the gardener. By listening to the advice listed in the article, growing will be much easier and more effective.

The cultivation of exotic tropical trees such as orange, kiwi, pomegranate is becoming more and more fashionable among amateur flower growers. They try to "domesticate" other cultures, for example, peach. But going to the store for such a tree is useless. The only way to get it is to grow it yourself from the bone. There is nothing difficult in this, only desire, a little patience and the ability to accurately follow the rules and recommendations are required from the grower. The process is time consuming, but very interesting.

The choice of planting material

There is hardly a person who would not like peaches. That is why more and more flower growers, partly following fashion trends, are trying to grow a fruit-bearing tree on their windowsill. But it would be at least naive to just stick a peach seed in the ground and wait for the harvest. The procedure is much more complicated, it requires preliminary preparation, the ability to act according to these recommendations, the availability of free time and, of course, desire.

Growing a fruiting peach tree at home is a task quite capable of even for an inexperienced gardener.

Extracting seeds from store-bought peaches and planting them is useless. There will definitely not be seedlings. The fact is that these fruits are grown very far from Russia (Spain, China, Thailand, Turkey). In order for the crop to safely endure transportation, the fruits are harvested long before the onset of not only biological, but also technical maturity, almost green. In addition, for better preservation and extension of the shelf life, peaches are treated with chemicals. The seeds inside the seeds simply do not have time to ripen, it makes no sense to talk about germination. And the drugs used contribute to the fact that the shell becomes very fragile, easily breaks, bursts in half. By the way, it is not recommended to eat such fruits.

Store-bought peaches cannot be used to obtain planting material.

Only the seeds of peaches grown on local farms in private garden plots have a chance to germinate. Therefore, for planting material, you need to go to markets, agricultural fairs, to neighbors in the country, and so on. But even the “right” fruit does not guarantee success. Practice shows that, on average, one seed emerges out of four, and a significant part of the seedlings die within two to three months after the emergence of seedlings. Therefore, it is advisable to stock up on planting material in excess.

Seedlings at home only produce peach seeds removed from the tree after reaching full maturity.

And it is also advisable to ask the seller if the peach tree was grafted. In self-rooted plants, the “descendants” fully inherit the varietal characteristics of the “parent”. And germination of seeds extracted from grafted peaches is a kind of lottery. Until the first harvest, no one can tell what the fruits will be.

Even if you cannot get peach fruits at home, you will get a wonderful interior decoration - this tree blooms very beautifully

In principle, peaches of any varieties ripen at home. But if you have a choice, you should give preference to those that are characterized by short stature, early maturity and the ability to self-pollination. Of those cultivated in Russia and the countries of the former USSR, the varieties Pineapple, Krasnodarsky, Kievsky, Mignon early, Redhaven fully correspond to these characteristics.

Redhaven peach is an old well-deserved hybrid, bred in the USA, it is quite suitable for growing at home.

Video: is it possible to grow a peach from a stone at home

Planting seeds and preparing for it

Peach seeds require pre-planting preparation. There are several methods, which differ in terms of duration, labor input and efficiency. The fruits from which the seeds are extracted must be overripe, but absolutely healthy, without the slightest suspicious symptoms indicating the development of pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria or traces that resemble damage left by insects.

Stratification

Stratification or the so-called cold method is the most common type of pre-planting preparation. Its essence is to simulate "winter" for seeds, creating conditions as close as possible to natural ones. In this case, the natural mechanism of seed preparation for germination is triggered, chemical reactions begin, in the process complex organic compounds are decomposed into simple components that the embryo is able to use for nutrition and assimilate.

In order for the stratification to be successful, the peach pits must be thoroughly cleaned of pulp particles

In addition to the low temperature (2–5 ° C), in order for the stratification to be successful, peach seeds need to provide good aeration and high air humidity (70% or more). You can put them, for example, in the refrigerator, in a special compartment for storing fruits and vegetables. And also a good solution - a cellar or basement. If the winter is expected to be warm and snowy, the container is simply dropped in the garden. Preparation begins in the middle of autumn, timing the time so that by the time the seeds germinate, it is still cold enough outside.

The temperature in the fruit and vegetable compartment is optimal for stratification of peach pits

The stratification procedure itself looks like this:

1. Shallow containers are filled with coarse river sand or peat chips. Previously, the substrate must be thoroughly rinsed and disinfected by steaming, calcining in the oven, holding it in the freezer. Some growers recommend sawdust or sphagnum moss as a "soil", but when using them it is very difficult to provide the required humidity.
2. Peach pits, carefully cleaned of pulp scraps (the latter can cause the development of rot), are planted in the ground, deepening by 7-9 cm.
3. The container is placed in a paper or transparent plastic bag, making 3-4 holes in it with a knife, and placed in the refrigerator. The condition of the soil is constantly monitored, as it dries, moistening the soil from a finely dispersed spray bottle. If condensation appears, open the bag for 5-7 minutes to ventilate.
4. After 10-12 weeks, the bones will sprout, their shell will open. When this happens, the container is removed from the refrigerator, the peaches are planted in individual pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm. The soil is prepared independently, mixing peat chips, humus and universal soil for indoor plants or leaf soil in approximately equal proportions.
5. The peaches are provided with ample light by placing them on a south or southwest window sill. A sharp change in the microclimate must not be allowed. The temperature is raised gradually. For 5–7 days, the seedlings are kept on a glazed loggia, at 10–12 ° C. Then they can be brought into the apartment, providing coolness (17–20 ° C). All this time, peaches are watered very sparingly, only when the soil dries out.

Extracting seeds

The existing bone is simply gently split, removing the seeds. If done correctly, seedlings will appear much earlier than with stratification. But due to the complete lack of hardening, such peaches are especially demanding on the conditions of detention, in need of perfect care. Plants do not tolerate even minor fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and so on.

The peach pits are split very carefully so as not to damage the seed, even its shell.

You need to act like this:

1. Peach seeds are thoroughly washed and dried for several days, spreading them out on linen napkins or paper towels. Then they are smashed very carefully using a knife and hammer. Seeds ("kernels") that have received even the slightest damage in the process can be thrown away immediately.
2. The extracted seeds are kept in water heated to room temperature for 3-4 days, changing the liquid every morning. They should swell, noticeably increasing in size.
3. When this happens, peach seeds are planted in individual pots, deepening by 4–5 cm. They create "greenhouse" conditions by tightening the containers with plastic wrap and covering them with glass.
4. Future peaches are provided with bottom heating, darkness, temperature 26-28 ° C. Every day, for 5-10 minutes, the "greenhouse" is opened for ventilation, at the same time washing away the accumulated condensate. Moisten the soil very moderately and only when it dries out. High humidity often provokes the development of rot.
5. As soon as sprouts appear, the "shelter" is removed, the containers are exposed to light, providing a "day" of at least 12 hours. Temperature and watering requirements do not change.

The greenhouse effect is essential for pitted peach seeds to germinate.

Germinating seeds in vivo

The easiest option, requiring the minimum investment of time and effort. The so-called warm method does not require the creation of a special microclimate for the seeds. Normal home conditions are enough. The seeds extracted from the fruit are simply planted in pots filled with soil and hope for the best. If you are lucky, the sprouts will appear in 3-4 months.

Peach seedlings obtained from seeds that have not gone through any preliminary preparation are extremely rare.

You can increase your chances of success in the following ways:

1. The seeds are placed in a refrigerator for 7-10 days, providing at least a short-term stratification.
2. Then they are soaked for 3-4 hours in a solution of any biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. The most common remedies are Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate, succinic acid, aloe juice.
3. The seeds are planted in cups filled with universal soil for indoor plants, deepening at least 5 cm. It is imperative that there are several drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay (or other suitable material) at the bottom, 2-3 cm thick. Beforehand, the soil must be well moistened.
4. The bones are provided with the same conditions as described in the previous method. Particular attention should be paid to watering - the peach categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture. When sprouts appear, the containers are transferred to the brightest place in the apartment, providing protection from any drafts and direct sunlight.

Biostimulants used in the process of seed germination have a positive effect on seed germination and strengthen the immunity of future plants

The growth rate of the peach tree does not differ. Sometimes it even seems that the seedlings do not develop at all. First, the tree forms the root system, and only then - the aerial part. But then it rapidly starts to grow, stretching for 8-10 weeks by 45-60 cm in height. The first harvest can be expected 4–5 years after germination.

A young peach tree does not grow very quickly, but you should not worry about this, it is completely normal for him

Transplant procedure

The first time a peach tree is transplanted when it reaches a height of 15–20 cm. The soil is prepared independently by mixing peat crumbs, humus, river sand and ordinary garden soil in a ratio (1: 1: 1: 2).

Flowering and fruiting greatly deplete the plant, so the soil for it must be nutritious, one of its essential components is humus

Transplanting a peach tree too often is unnecessary. Enough once every 2-3 years. Some tightness will even benefit the roots by encouraging more abundant flowering. The optimal time for the procedure is early spring (before the beginning of the active growing season) or the first half of September (when fruiting ends).

For the peach, choose a pot that resembles a bucket in shape. It's still a tree, so its root system is developed. It is best to purchase a ceramic container - it is more stable and provides proper aeration.

Peach roots just don't have room in a shallow flat pot.

Further care

In nature, the peach grows in the tropics. This is what you need to focus on, creating a suitable microclimate for the tree. It is worth listening to its "requirements", because flowering and fruiting is possible only in optimal or close to them conditions.

Creating the right microclimate

Peach is very light-requiring. The plant needs to be provided with 12-14 hours of daylight. In most of the territory of Russia, natural light will not work, therefore, for additional illumination, you will have to use simple fluorescent or special phytolamps. They are turned on not only in autumn and winter, but also in summer, in cloudy cool weather.

The LED phytolamp does not consume much electricity, but it allows peaches to provide the desired daylight hours

A pot with a peach tree is placed near a window facing south or southeast. As a rule, this is the brightest place in the apartment. But a plant, especially a young one, can suffer from burns, therefore, during the period of maximum solar activity, it must be shaded, covering it with tulle, gauze, and a paper screen.

The plant has a very positive attitude to fresh air, but categorically does not tolerate cold drafts. This must be taken into account when choosing a place in the apartment. In summer, the peach feels great on the loggia, veranda, balcony, in the garden, if you provide it with protection from rain and wind.

Peach is very fond of fresh air, therefore, if the temperature is right, it can be taken outside.

The optimum temperature varies depending on which stage of development the plant is in. He definitely needs a rest period at 2–5 ° C. It lasts from November to early March. Then the temperature is raised to 12-15 ° C. Higher rates can provoke bud fall. After flowering, the plant needs warmth, but not heat (22–26 ° C). The peach tree will not survive freezing temperatures.

Air humidity is not critical for peach. It will be quite satisfied with the standard 50-60%, which does not require any effort to maintain in modern apartments. Nevertheless, in the heat, the peach will not mind the daily spraying. It is also useful for sanitary purposes from time to time to wipe the leaves with a damp sponge or soft cloth, getting rid of dust.

Peach is a moisture-loving plant, but categorically does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in a pot. The soil is moistened regularly, allowing it to dry 2-3 cm deep. This can be easily verified by sticking a toothpick into the substrate. Watering intervals vary depending on the weather outside. In the heat, the peach will have to be watered daily or once every two days, the rest of the time - 2-3 times a week (during the ripening of the fruit, you can do with one). Half an hour after the procedure, it is imperative to drain the excess moisture from the pot.

The plant needs the most abundant watering after it leaves the dormant period, when the leaf buds begin to "wake up". As soon as flowering ends and fruit ovaries are formed, it is reduced. Waterlogging can cause the ovaries to fall off and the fruit to crack. During the wintering period, the peach is watered very rarely and in moderation, once every 2.5–3 weeks.

Water for irrigation is used soft, warmed to room temperature. The one that flows from the tap must be defended for at least a day. Or you can speed up the precipitation process by adding a few citric acid crystals or 2-3 drops of apple cider vinegar to it.

Rainwater, like melt, spring water is ideal for watering a peach

After each watering, after about half an hour, the soil is loosened. It should not be allowed to turn into a crust on the soil surface. This prevents normal aeration of the roots and provokes moisture stagnation.

Flowering and fruiting take a lot of energy from the tree. Therefore, peach feeding is strictly required. For this, you can use organic fertilizers based on vermicompost, and complex mineral preparations. But natural remedies are also suitable - infusions of wood ash, nettle leaves, dandelion. Fertilizers are applied every 12-14 days throughout the growing season. During wintering, feeding is stopped.

Infusion of nettle leaves is a natural source of nitrogen and phosphorus, before use it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 8

When using garden fertilizers (urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc.), when preparing a solution for irrigation, the concentration recommended by the manufacturer is halved. The volume of soil in the pot is limited, because of this, top dressing is not washed out of the soil. Moderate "overfeeding" is not dangerous for the peach - it will only stop bearing fruit, "concentrating" on building up the green mass (sometimes such plants are called "fattening"). But the regular excess of fertilizer doses is already intoxication and the very likely death of the plant.

The macro- and microelements most necessary for a plant are phosphorus, potassium, calcium and copper. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied only in spring, they help to stimulate the peach to intensive growth of green mass after the winter "hibernation". Experienced flower growers, in order to provide it with everything necessary, advise once a month and a half to spray the tree, dissolving soda ash (4-5 g), copper sulfate (1.5-2 g), 2-3 crystals of potassium permanganate in a liter of warm water and a drop of iodine.

A home-grown peach tree is sensitive to copper deficiency, a solution of copper sulfate will help to fill it

A neglected peach tree does not look very attractive and almost always refuses to bear fruit. Therefore, it needs regular pruning. Formation begins in about a year and a half, when the seedling reaches a height of 65–70 cm and several lateral shoots are formed on it.

It is on them that the fruits ripen. Therefore, the growth of the tree upward must be slowed down. In principle, the florist is limited only by the height of the ceilings in his own apartment, but practice shows that the optimal height of a peach is 1.5–1.7 m.

The first pruning of the peach is to pinch the top at the desired height. This is done in the fall. The following spring, the lateral shoots of last year are shortened by 2-3 buds, stimulating more intensive branching. And they also get rid of all unsuccessfully located branches directed inward and downward. It is recommended to leave the 6-8 most developed lateral shoots annually, and cut the rest to the point of growth. Branches older than ten years are also removed, they will no longer bear fruit.

Video: peach pruning rules

How to get vaccinated correctly

A seedling of a peach obtained from a stone, if its variety is known, can be used as a graft for a garden tree. And sometimes, on the contrary, it is grown as a stock for a varietal cuttings. Vaccination is carried out in several ways, but, in any case, the tool used in the process must be disinfected and sharpened sharply. Sterility is also very important. The less the grower touches the cuts, the better.

The most common method, including among gardeners. The best time for the procedure is early spring. The graft (the part of the plant to be grafted) and the rootstock (the plant to which the graft is being grafted) should roughly coincide in diameter. On the first, at least three growth buds are required.

The graft and rootstock should be approximately the same diameter, this applies not only to the peach

The rootstock tree is cut at a height of 25–30 cm. A vertical incision about 5 mm deep is made perpendicular to the cut plane. The base of the scion cutting is cut at an angle on both sides, forming a V-shaped wedge.

To speed up the process, the base of the scion is soaked for several hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. In addition to store drugs (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin), you can use, for example, succinic acid, aloe juice. Practice shows that powdered products give much worse results.

Split grafting is the most popular method among gardeners and florists, you can graft one or two cuttings at once

The scion wedge is inserted into the rootstock split. He must enter there with some effort. Then the entire structure is fixed by wrapping it with plastic wrap, adhesive plaster, electrical tape or covering it with garden pitch. If you don't wrap it tight enough, the moisture from the fabrics will simply evaporate, and the cutting will dry out. When a characteristic "influx", called callus by botanists, appears on the bark around the graft, the film can be removed.

One of the main conditions for the success of grafting is reliable fixation of the structure.

There are other ways of grafting - combining oblique cuts on the scion and rootstock, grafting for the bark (if it is thick enough). The procedure is not fundamentally different from the cleft vaccination, but the first method at home gives the best results. The last method at home is used extremely rarely - the process takes a long time, it is highly likely that the grafted stalk will simply break off after removing the polyethylene.

Budding

Budding is a slightly more complicated method that requires some experience from the grower. In fact, this is the same graft, but not a whole stalk is used as a scion, but only one growth bud. You can carry out budding at any time.

The kidney is cut off together with a layer of tissue 2-3 mm thick and 2.5-3 cm wide (the so-called scutellum). It is advisable to do this in one motion. In the process, try to touch her as little as possible. The tool used is a scalpel or razor blade.

It is advisable to cut the bud for budding in one motion, touching it with your hands as little as possible

Further, an X or T-shaped incision is made on the bark of the rootstock tree, with a depth of 1.5–2 mm. If you gently peel back the bark, it forms something that looks like a pocket. The cut kidney is inserted into it, securely fixed with a strapping. It can be removed when callus forms, indicating that the procedure was successful.

Fixing the bud on the scion requires the grower to have certain skills, if part of the bark sticks out of the "pocket", this is normal

The result of the performed procedure will become clear in about 25-30 days. In addition to the formation of callus, success is evidenced by the activation of the growth of the cuttings or the "awakening" of the kidney. If this does not happen, the winding is carefully removed, the scion is removed, the inoculation site is disinfected by washing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and covered with garden varnish.

The growth bud that has taken root on the rootstock "wakes up" in about a month

What could be more interesting than growing some unusual and exotic plant for our places at home. For example, nectarine. However, this is not so difficult to do. This is not an exaggeration, it really is. But there are a number of their specific subtleties.

We will tell you in detail how to do everything correctly so that a real nectarine tree grows from a small bone in your home.

Preparing the nectarine seed

The first step is to find a suitable planting material. To do this, select a well-ripened nectarine fruit, and, having cut the pulp, remove the bone. Leave it on for two to three days to dry.

After that, you need to get an almond-shaped seed out of it. Take a hammer, place the bone on the edge, and gently break it. As if you are breaking the shell of a nut.

Gently smash the bone with a hammer, extract the nectarine seed

Take a half liter jar and fill it with fertile soil. After that, bury the nectarine seeds shallowly in the ground, compact a little and water. Then cover the jar with a lid and put it in a cold place. Better to put it somewhere further to the back wall in the refrigerator.

This is because the nectarine seed needs exposure to cold to germinate. This is the peculiarity of this culture. Sometimes it takes two or three months, and sometimes all four. Moreover, all this time they do not require any maintenance, and they do not need to be watered at all.

Take out the jar periodically and see if sprouts have appeared from under the ground. As soon as you see them, then the nectarine can be planted in another container.

Another variant

Sometimes you can find advice not to put the nectarine seed in the soil at this stage, but, having wrapped it in paper, simply put it in the refrigerator for four months. Simple cooling is enough for the seed to awaken and grow later. After the refrigerator, it is advised to keep it in water at room temperature for a day, and then plant it in the ground.

Planting nectarine

Pick out the strongest seeds with the strongest and longest shoots. If you want to limit yourself to one plant, then leave one seed, since you will need to plant exactly one seed per pot.

The container should be taken in medium size, with a volume of about two liters. Fill it with good quality soil, and plant the sprouted seed to a depth of three to four centimeters. Now the pot must be placed in a warm place.

Caring for nectarine at home

Pretty soon, literally in two weeks, a sprout should appear.

Remember the basic conditions necessary for the successful growth of nectarine:

this crop requires at least six hours of sunshine per day in the summer. So you need to keep the plant in a well-lit room, or make up for the lack of light with the help of artificial sources. In winter, there is no such need for light, so sometimes it is advised even to take the nectarine to the cellar in a cool place.

nectarine is very fond of water and needs frequent watering. This primarily applies to the summer season. However, moisture should not stagnate in the roots. Therefore, at the bottom of the containers, where it will grow, it is imperative to lay drainage and make holes in them to drain excess water. In winter, watering can be done less frequently so that the ground is only slightly damp.

Feed the nectarine regularly and frequently, especially with phosphate fertilizers. This can be done every ten days, it is good to alternate mineral fertilizing with organic matter. This will promote flowering and fruit formation.

cut the branches off the nectarine tree to form low horizontal branches. This will create a bushy tree shape that is most beneficial for the room.

Subsequently, as the nectarine grows, it must be transplanted into larger containers. The transplant is done every year or two. As a result, you can reach a large tub with a volume of 40-50 liters. But when growing nectarine in a container, you have to accept that your tree will not be as big as if it were planted in the ground.

There are dwarf varieties for which 10-12 liters of soil volume will be enough.

Nectarine is a very early-growing crop, and in nature the nectarine tree begins to bear fruit in the third year. It is difficult to say whether this will happen at home, since a lot depends on the variety and many favorable factors are required.

When growing nectarines from a stone, trees with the same fruits do not always grow ...

Nectarine in your garden

Nectarines are propagated mainly by grafting (budding). At the same time, they retain all varietal characteristics.

Best rootstocks for nectarines – peach and common almond... And on heavy waterlogged soils with a close (less than 1.5 m) standing groundwater as a stock can be used seedlings of cherry plum or homemade plum... However, they are not compatible enough with some varieties of nectarines.

To grow nectarine from a seed it is necessary, if possible, to pay attention to the nectarines growing on your site or on the sites of neighbors, and see which ones are more stable and productive.

Planting nectarine seeds possible in summer, autumn and spring, away from mature trees (3 - 4 m) and the shade of the house. The landing site should be protected from cold winter winds with sufficient sunlight.

In the south, in order to grow nectarine from a seed, nectarine seeds without shells can be planted immediately after removing the fruit from the tree. For this, the seeds are separated from the fruits of nectarine and soaked for at least three days. The water containing the nectarine seeds must be changed at least twice a day. After the bones have been soaked in water, they must be dried so that direct sunlight does not fall on them.

In order to grow nectarine from seeds, they are planted in a kind of school. To do this, dig a trench, fill it with fertile, fertilized soil, plant nectarine seeds to a depth of 5 - 6 cm with a distance of 20 - 25 cm and water abundantly. They cover well for the winter (sawdust, leaves, grass, etc.).

In order to grow nectarine from a stone, you can also plant them before winter; during the cold period, the bones will undergo stratification (aging) and self-reject. In this case, nectarine seeds should not be soaked.

It is better to plant nectarine seeds in October or November and also cover well for the winter.

In the spring you need take off covering layer, leaving a few centimeters so that the soil does not dry out. From the seed of nectarine, the root is first formed, and only later the stem is formed. Therefore, the land is needed loose, soft and fertilized.

To water Nectarine pits are needed daily.

Desirable feed seedlings with diluted humus and sprinkle with special preparations (Ridomil or Tiovit), small nectarines, like peaches, are very painful.

If you decide that you will start growing nectarine from the seed in the spring, and there is a danger of damage to the seeds by rodents, then the nectarine seeds are stored indoors until December - January, and then stratified. To do this, one part of nectarine seeds is mixed with three parts of a substrate of sawdust, sand or a mixture of sawdust and sand, moistened and placed in a plastic bag or clay pot, placed in a cool room or placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of plus 3 - 5 °. During the winter, they are periodically moistened to keep them constant. Sprouted nectarine seeds are sown in the ground.

Nectarine seedlings are well looked after and watered. Already in the third year, the seedlings can bear fruit.

At the same time, it should be remembered that when growing nectarines from a stone, trees do not always grow with the same fruits from which the seeds were taken.

Trimming and shaping the crown of the nectarine. When pruning, nectarine, like a peach, forms a cupped (vase-like) crown that does not have a central conductor. Nectarine is a light-loving plant and this type of crown allows most branches to get better access to light.

The nectarine stem is 40 - 50 cm and usually has 3, less often 4 skeletal branches of the first order, which can be removed from adjacent buds or placed at intervals of 5 - 10 cm from one another.

Nectarine is a delicious fruit brought to us from southern countries. Many people prefer nectarine precisely because of its beautiful smooth shape and taste, a bit reminiscent of a peach.

It turns out that this wonderful plant takes root and bears fruit very well in our country. These are, first of all, the varieties "Rubinovy ​​8", "Fantasy", "Stark Delicious", their fruits are referred to as the most delicious.

Nectarine fruits do not cause allergies, if stored properly, they can be stored for a long time, the skin is dense, so they can easily endure transportation.

Summer residents propagate nectarine in two ways: seedlings and seeds. The seedlings are grafted onto a peach tree and the first fruits are removed the next year. Reproduction with the help of seedlings requires some skill and dexterity, but reproduction with the help of seeds is within the power of any "novice" summer resident.

How to grow nectarine from a seed?

The seeds for planting must be chosen the strongest and "reliable", that is, they must be extracted from the latest nectarine fruits that have reached maturity. The seeds harvested at the end of summer have the best germination rate.

The bones for drying are placed in a dry room for a couple of days. Then they are soaked for a week, and the water must be drained daily and replaced with fresh water. After soaking, the seeds must be planted in a small flower pot (in winter).

During the winter, some seeds should sprout and gradually several sprouts will grow from them. They need to be watered (if necessary) like a normal houseplant, young shoots are picky.

In early spring, the most strengthened ones are chosen from the sprouts and planted in their summer cottage. The main care of seedlings is as follows. It is necessary to water and "feed" on time a couple of times (the first time during planting, the second - a month later). There should be no weeds and country "waste" around the tree.

Nectarine adapts well and grows in loamy and sandy loam soils. For planting, you must choose the southern part of the garden area. The plant should receive the maximum amount of sunlight during the day. A peach tree should not grow near nectarine, this threatens nectarine with infection with various diseases, the main of which are fungal.

In the early years, a plant grown from seeds will begin to bear fruit, the quality of which will be low, but gradually the tree will get stronger and begin to bear fruit fully. If the nectarine is grown in an area where summer is damp and cold, the tree will not bear fruit.

For many of us, the peach is still an exotic fruit that can be enjoyed only by buying it on the market. But there are gardeners who have already tried to grow a peach on their own. Someone succeeded, but someone violated agricultural technology and the young peach disappeared.

If you also want to grow a peach, then you will need valuable experience of successful cultivation of a peach from experienced gardeners. Moreover, peach can even be grown from seed so you don’t even have to buy seedlings or vaccinate. The first thing you need to do is buy some large, ripe, but not tainted peach tree fruits at the point of sale.

It will be very good if these are fruits from a rooted tree, not a grafted tree. We also advise you to buy peaches "hand-held" from gardeners. Since, their fruits will be taken from trees bearing fruit in your area, and not brought from abroad.

A zoned peach seed has a better chance of germinating and surviving in your climate. So, after eating the juicy peach pulp, carefully examine the bones. Select those that are free of defects.

Secrets of growing a peach from a stone

It is necessary to plant peach seeds in open ground before winter (October, November). If you do this in spring or summer, young seedlings may not have time to get stronger and will freeze in winter.

The most optimal seeds for planting are the seeds of late, medium-late and medium varieties of peach. It is recommended to plant the seeds immediately after removing them from the fruit, while they are still wet. If this is not possible, they will have to be stratified.

To speed up germination, some gardeners recommend soaking the seeds in clean water for a couple of days. The water must be changed 2 times a day. Then the seeds should be removed from the water and allowed to dry, after which, by hitting them with a hammer, remove the seed.

But this is not necessary at all. Now let's figure it out,. Peach pits should be planted in loose, soft and well-fertilized soil. The distance to the nearest trees should be at least 3 meters, since the peach loves the sun very much.

Make several rows at a distance of 50 cm from each other, in each row after 10 cm, spread the seeds and sprinkle the pits with earth, then mulch with grass (the thicker the layer, the better). In the spring, after germination, begin to water the sprouts abundantly with water. It will not be superfluous to feed young trees with humus and spray them against pests and diseases. By the end of summer, if everything goes well, your trees will already be about 1.5 meters high, and they will begin to grow overgrown with side branches. If you want to transplant a tree to a new place , you need to prepare a pit for him with a depth of at least 1 meter in the fall.

The place should be sunny and sheltered from the wind. Next spring you can transplant the young tree to a new place. After transplanting, the peach must be thoroughly watered with settled water and mulched with manure or peat.

But before that, remove all diseased and frozen branches. It is necessary to cut the branches of the peach every spring, forming a bowl-shaped crown.

When to expect the first peach harvest?

pitted peach, You will see already for 3, maximum 4 years. But be prepared for the fact that you will grow a semi-wild variety of peaches, and not an exact resemblance to the ones you bought. On the other hand, your peach will delight you with its disease resistance and bountiful harvests.

Landing features

We have already told how and when to plant a peach. Now we will analyze how to choose the optimal terrain and calculate the distance between trees. So, question number 1: where is it better to plant a peach? Choose the most illuminated spot on the site.

The tree is southern and grows well only if it is saturated with sunlight. The more light falls on the plantings, the more juicy the fruits will be. It is advisable that cold air does not stagnate in the selected place.

And remember about moisture, with a lack of moisture, the skin on the fruit will crack. Mulch the tree circle (if the water table is too deep) and water the plant periodically.Before planting a peach garden, be sure to calculate the minimum spacing between trees.

It is equal to the sum of the heights of mature peach plants. Do not trust schemes roaming the Internet. They assume the possibility of planting the maximum number of trees on the site. The harvest is out of the question.

Understand that the quantity and quality of fruits directly depends on the conditions for the growth of plants. The more acceptable the environment (abundance of sun, water, proper care, etc.), the higher the fertility.

Agree, it is better to collect 10 buckets of fruit from one tree than 6-7 bowls from three plants. You can find more information about the distance on our website in the garden care section.

Having decided to grow this crop from seed, you should know how to plant a peach seed correctly, because the success of the work largely depends on this: good rooting, full growth, and subsequent yield. For planting, it is recommended to take the seeds of the ripe fruits of grafted and own-rooted trees.

Seedlings grown from the seed of the fruit of a self-rooted tree will receive 70 - 80% of the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. A peach obtained from the seed of the fruit of a grafted plant is grafted when the thickness of the trunk at the root collar is about 1 cm.

Planting can be done at different times of the year. Experienced gardeners prefer to plant the seeds of this tree before winter (in October-November), since during the cold period they will undergo natural stratification, while only the strongest of them will emerge.

When planted in spring and summer, weak, fragile seedlings may not survive winter frosts. Planting peaches in the fall will be most successful with medium, mid-late and late ripening varieties.

Before embedding in the ground, the bones must be dried in the shade in the fresh air. If planting will take place after a few days, the seeds should be placed in a container with warm water for several days. Change water 2 times a day.

After stratification, the seeds are dried and carefully punctured in such a way that, without damaging the seed, it can be removed from the hard shell.

How to plant a peach pit correctly: site selection

If in the garden there is a possibility of choosing a site for planting a peach, it is recommended to place it in a sunny place, since light and heat are necessary for the ripening of fruits, proper growth of shoots and the establishment of flower buds of this culture. A peach can withstand a little shading, but it will negatively affect its fruiting.

A thermophilic fruit plant should not be planted where cold air stagnates. During flowering, temperatures below 0 ° C by 1 - 2 ° C can ruin the future harvest. Before planting a seed peach in the ground, it is necessary to prepare the soil in advance.

Despite its whimsical growing conditions, the tree can grow well in almost any soil with good drainage. You can get an idea of ​​the drainage of a garden plot using the following observations.

If the soil is poorly dug up, strongly compacted, and after rain puddles remain on it, this indicates a high content of clay in it. In such soil, moisture is absorbed very slowly and also slowly leaves.

You can improve its condition with peat, manure or compost. Soils, in which water is retained for a long time, must be drained, otherwise the roots will rot after a while, and the tree itself will die.

If the soil is too loose, loose, and dries quickly, this indicates an excess of sand or gravel in it, or a lack of nutrients. In this case, organic fertilizer should be applied, which helps to retain moisture for longer and enrich the soil with the necessary nutrients.

The ideal soil for planting peaches is considered to be slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5. Lime is added to overly acidic soil (pH below 5.8). This work is carried out one month before fertilization or one month after that.

Preparing the area where the tree will grow, the soil is cleared of weeds. For severe clogging, herbicides are used. Before planting, organic fertilizer is applied to improve the structure of the soil. The amount of fertilizer depends on its condition and composition.

The prepared peach seed is immediately planted in open ground to a depth of 6 - 8 cm at a distance of at least 2 - 3 m from other trees and nearby buildings that cast a shadow. Some time after planting the peach, the roots begin to form from the stone, then the stem.

In the first month after planting the seeds, the soil must be kept in a loose and moderately moist state. During the summer, the seedling grows up to 130 cm, after which the crown begins to develop, which must be properly formed in the first year of the plant's life. In autumn, strong lateral branches are left, they will form the skeleton of the crown, the rest are cut "under the ring".

Planting and transplanting a peach

In the second year in the spring, you can transplant the plant to a permanent place. Planting peaches in the spring should be done as early as possible, immediately after the soil warms up.

On the day of transplanting a peach, you need to dig a hole of such depth and width so that the roots of the seedling can freely fit in it. At the bottom of the pit, mix rotten turf, manure, peat or compost with the soil. When placing a plant in a hole with a pruner, remove roots that are too long.

When placing a tree, it is important to ensure that the root collar is at the level of the soil. After placement, you can fill the hole. First, sprinkle the roots with the top layer of soil, then the rest of the soil, constantly shaking the seedling so that the earth passes between the roots.

When completing the planting, you should crush the soil and level the surface. Cover the trunk circle with a layer of mulch using rotted manure, peat or compost. It is recommended to tie an annual seedling to a stake with a plastic bunch, folding it in the form of a figure eight. Two-year-old seedlings need a stronger bond, but a spacer must be placed between the stake and the trunk to prevent damage to the bark.

Planting a peach from a stone (with video)

The first 2 - 3 years until the young plant grows stronger for the winter period, it must be insulated with sawdust, grass or fallen leaves. Trees growing near the walls can be protected from frost by covering them with straw or burlap.In central Russia, this culture often suffers from a lack of moisture, frostbite and infection with fungal diseases. To successfully grow a tree, you need to choose varieties with increased winter hardiness and take full care of the peach, which includes annual crown pruning, fertilizing, spraying on dry, hot days, watering and pest control. in practice, within 3-4 years the gardener will receive the first harvest of fruits. You can watch a video about planting a peach below:

Eating juicy peaches, some wonder: is it realistic to grow a peach tree in your own garden? Yes, really, and it is not even necessary to buy peach seedlings for this. The Land of the Soviets will tell how to grow a peach from a stone. Suitable for growing bones of ripe, juicy, but not spoiled fruits... It is best to take peaches of varieties typical for your area for this purpose. "Alien" varieties will either grow poorly or will not take root at all. It is also good if you can find out on which tree the fruit grew - self-rooted or grafted. The first one should be given preference. Carefully examine the bones selected for planting: they must be intact, without defects. Bones are planted in open ground in October-November (before winter)... If you try to grow a peach from a stone in the summer or spring, the seedlings will not have time to get stronger, and may not survive the winter. In addition, seeds of early maturing varieties may not germinate at all; for planting, it is better to take seeds of medium, medium-late and late ripening varieties. You need to plant the bones as quickly as possible, without letting them dry out. otherwise they will have to be stratified. Sometimes, before planting, the bones are prepared by soaking in water for several days (the water needs to be changed twice a day). Then the bones are allowed to dry and are punctured with a hammer to extract the seed (this must be done carefully so as not to damage the delicate core). However, this preparation is optional. Peach pits should be planted in soft, loose, well-fertilized soil. at a distance of at least 3-4 m from mature fruit-bearing trees. The depth of planting seeds is about 5-8 cm (not deeper), in a row the distance between planting should be about 10 cm, the distance between rows should be 50 cm.It is better to plant more seeds than you want to get peach trees, because not all of them will sprout , but it's good if half. After planting, you need to mulch the crops with a thick layer of grass. In the spring, when the shoots sprout, they will need to. It is advisable to feed the peach with diluted humus and sprinkle with special preparations for the prevention of diseases. During the summer, the peach seedling will reach a height of about one and a half meters, side branches will begin to appear on it. When the main trunk reaches a height of 70 cm, you can start practicing. However, the main pruning is performed next spring, removing diseased and frozen branches. peach pruning is done annually, in the spring, between the appearance of pink buds and flowering. The crown of the tree is formed in the form of a bowl. Every year, shoots should be left along the axes of skeletal branches of any order for fruiting (the distance between shoots is 15-20 cm), the rest should be cut "on a ring" (that is, on the entire branch). Also next spring you can replant the peach to a permanent place. To transplant, you need to dig a hole at least a meter deep in the fall in the sunniest and most wind-protected place on the site. After planting, water the peach with two or three buckets of settled water and mulch with peat or rotted manure. Usually the peach begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year.... Please note that there is no guarantee that you will be able to grow an exact copy of the peach you like from the stone, most likely, a "half-savage" will grow. But peaches grown from a stone on their own plot are usually more resistant to diseases and whims of the weather, they freeze less in winter and give more abundant yields. As you can see, it is quite possible to grow a peach from a stone. the main thing is to follow simple rules outlined above. A little patience - and you can feast on peaches grown in your own garden.

How to grow nectarine from a stone at home? (1 of 2)

Everyone at least once in his life has tried some exotic or man-made fruit by crossing. An example is nectarine. Therefore, you need to tell how to grow nectarine from a stone at home. You will need:

• Drainage

Often, some people have the idea to grow nectarine at home. The article will reveal several secrets of growing nectarine. Nectarine is a well-known peach, but its distinctive feature is its smooth surface.

There is a myth that nectarine is a mixture of peach and plum. But in fact, a mutation led to the appearance of this fruit. It is because of her that on the peach tree you can find both the fruits of nectarine and the peach itself.

However, having practically the same origin, they still differ in composition. Compared to peach, nectarine is richer in trace elements such as organic acids, compounds of phosphorus, potassium, iron, fructose, glucose, etc. Also, nectarine contains twice as much provitamin A.

How to grow nectarine from a stone at home in order to always have fruits with therapeutic and prophylactic properties at hand? After all, these fruits not only improve the digestion process (allow to accelerate the assimilation of "heavy" food), but also have a positive effect on the vascular system of the human body.

Also, nectarine is used to remove toxins and other harmful substances from the body. In addition, nectarine is used by cosmetologists. On the basis of this fruit, balms, creams, aromatic oils are produced.

The fruit helps to keep the body in good shape. It should be noted that it is not so easy to grow a tree that would bear the fruits of nectarine, and for the implementation of this idea, first of all, a positive attitude is needed.

Growing P E R S I K A and A B R I K O S A

First you need to purchase at a retail outlet or, if there is such an opportunity, pick the fruit of nectarine from the tree, which should be ripe, aromatic and tasty enough. In this case, preference should be given to later varieties, since it is they who have the ability to preserve the taste properties of the mother tree.

Before growing nectarine from the seed, you should get these seeds. That is, the next step is to separate the seeds from the selected fruits. It should be remembered that they must also be of high quality - without cracks or other damage.

After thoroughly cleaning the bones from the pulp tissue, they should be subjected to a slight heat treatment (maximum a couple of hours) in order to dry them.

The next step is to soak the prepared seeds, which should last from 4 to 6 days. In this case, a daily change of water in the vessel is a prerequisite. At the end of the specified period, a stratification process is performed.

It provides for the arrangement of seeds in a box filled with river sand and sawdust. The box (it can also be a pot) must have drainage holes, the presence of which allows you to regulate the amount of moisture (obtained during watering). After all, excess moisture can lead to rotting of the bones.

After the above steps are done, the container with the hidden bones should be placed in the ground. The box or pot should be level with the ground.

After watering the buried container, you need to cover the place with several layers of grass and sawdust. It should be remembered that the so-called protective cover must be at least 10 cm in height. And the snow that has fallen can also be used to cover this area.

As you know, snow is an excellent protector against sudden and uncontrolled freezing of the soil. How to plant nectarines from the stone at home in order to enjoy their taste in the future?

An important circumstance should be taken into account that all of the above actions should be carried out at the end of autumn. The seeds planted in this way winter, and with the arrival of spring, after they germinate, you need to seed their seedlings in a permanent place.

But that is not all. The attention of the owner is important, because its further fruiting depends on the quality of caring for a young seedling.

He needs quite frequent watering and feeding, and also from time to time it is imperative to give him special treatment, since small pests can destroy the nectarine tree. Although, it is interesting to know that the peach tree is much weaker in relation to such diseases. It is recommended to make selection only after the first harvest is obtained, because it is then that it is possible to reliably estimate which seedlings should be selected.

Pitted mango.

Therefore, in the spring, the right decision would be to give a chance to all the trees that managed to survive in the cold season. Thus, if we take into account all the subtleties mentioned in the process of growing a nectarine tree, then you can achieve good results.

Soon the seedlings will acquire immunity, which will allow them to develop quite actively in the future. And after several years, the nectarine tree will bear its first fruits. Most likely, they will be slightly smaller than the usual sizes, but they will not differ in taste from those purchased in the store.