DIY semi-replica steering rack with spring damping. DIY RC buggy is real !!! Rear axle with shock absorption system
Any aircraft model needs a landing gear to be more like a real aircraft, and even more so to practice takeoff and landing. This article describes in detail the process of making lightweight wheels, as well as different types chassis for models. This is the most budget options, which are well suited for both novice modelers (for economy) and more experienced (for making more copy wheels).
Materials (edit):
- Foam rubber (from packaging from tablets or phone cases)
- Plastic cards
- Ceiling tiles (trim)
- Docking tape for linoleum
- Refills from ballpoint pens
- Steel wire of different diameters
- Plywood and rulers
- Tin
- Washers, bolts
- Threads
- PVA glue, epoxy, for ceiling tiles
- Terminal blocks
Instruments:
- Drill or lathe
- Screwdriver
- Drill
- Pliers
- Scissors
- Soldering iron, solder, acid
- Knife
- Sandpaper
- Jigsaw
- Paint for metal in a spray can
- Acrylic paints
Step 1. Making wheels
We take the foam rubber plates and mark them into squares, taking into account the future diameter of the wheel.
Depending on the required thickness, we glue the resulting squares into "sandwiches" ceiling glue and leave to dry (foam rubber is not a ceiling, and therefore it will take longer to dry, so I recommend doing this at night).
We cut out circles of the required diameter from plastic (bases from SIM cards or old discounts) and drill in the center of the hole.
We glue plastic mugs to foam rubber blanks with epoxy glue. After the glue has completely dried, insert a bolt into the hole and tighten with nuts. Then we clamp the bolt with the workpiece in the drill chuck or lathe and process to the required shape. After the bolt, the hole may be too large for the thin axle. For this, rods from the handles are needed - it is enough to glue a piece of the rod onto the epoxy into the hole, thereby reducing the diameter of the hole.
The resulting wheels can be painted acrylic paints and varnish.
You can fasten wheels on the axle with purchased clamps, or you can use terminal blocks (in electric stores there are almost any axle diameter).
If the wheels are supposed to be fixed, then they can be fixed with washers and threads on epoxy.
Step 2. Making the front chassis
Option 1: From tin and wire
Cut out two strips of tin from the fuselage width tin can... From bicycle spokes or thick (2 mm) wire we bend parts in the shape of the letter "P". Using soldering acid, we solder them to the sheet metal (it is convenient to do this on a piece of plywood, after fixing the pieces of sheet metal with self-tapping screws).
We glue pieces of rulers or plywood to the bottom of the fuselage, try on the chassis and drill the mounting holes.
If necessary, you can paint the finished chassis with spray paint (I had it lying around after touching up rust in the bottom of the car).
After gluing the model with tape, the chassis can be screwed to the fuselage.
You can also add triangles from the ceiling to the chassis and seal them with tape.
For wider and heavier models, it is recommended to add two more crosswise braces from a thinner steel wire. Then the racks will be less dispersed to the sides when landing.
Option 2: From a thick rod and plywood
From a metal rod (4 mm in diameter) we bend the workpiece, based on the width of the fuselage.
We glue this blank between two pieces of plywood (pieces of a ruler are also suitable on a smaller scale).
We glue a pencil case from plywood and small blocks, into which the rack should fit tightly.
We drill a hole for the bolt in the center of this structure and on one side we glue a nut onto the epoxy.
We glue the pencil case into the fuselage so that there is access from the inside for screwing in the fixing bolt.
Cut out parts for the landing gear from the scraps of the ceiling tile.
We glue the racks on both sides into the ceiling, let the glue dry under the clamps, then skin and paint.
The chassis is ready.
If the chassis needs to be made non-removable, we cut the frame out of plywood, and bend the rack out of the bicycle spoke.
We mark the position of the rack on the frame, drill several holes and fasten it with a thin wire to the frame through these holes.
Then we fill the junction of the strut and the frame with epoxy and glue this frame into the fuselage.
Another variation of the plywood and rod chassis is shown in the photo below. The only difference is that the nose pillar is single, but it is attached to the plywood base in the same way.
I want to note that even though the copy number required to make one wheel in the bow and two in the middle on this model, it did not justify itself in the field - at the slightest unevenness on the runway, the model tumbles its nose into the ground. Therefore, after a test flight, I changed the landing gear to a more familiar scheme, when a single wheel is behind.
Option 3. From joint tape
This type of chassis is more suitable for small aerobatic models, although it adds weight to them.
We take a duralumin joint tape of a suitable width, bend the landing gear out of it and drill the mounting holes and holes for the axle bolts.
We fix the wheels with small bolts.
Then we fasten the chassis with self-tapping screws into the plywood platform in the fuselage.
It is better to fix the base for such a chassis in the fuselage more reliably, otherwise it will vomit "with meat" during a hard landing.
Step 3. Making the rear chassis
Option 1. Non-rotating rear chassis
We fix the wheel on a steel spoke with threads on epoxy or purchased clamps.
We use pliers to make small bites along the entire length of the knitting needle (the main thing is not to overdo it and not to bite it). We spread the needle with epoxy glue and insert it into the previously made hole.
Instead of biting, you can wrap a knitting needle with a thread with glue, let it dry, and then glue it onto the tail end with the same epoxy.
Option 2. Pivoting rear chassis
Bend around steel wire around the screwdriver (one or two turns) and bend one end sideways from the plane of the resulting spring - this will be the axis of the wheel.
From the wire we bend a loop-retainer in the form of the letter "G".
The parts that will be glued into the fuselage and rudder are wrapped with threads and glue. Then we glue them into the tail section of the fuselage so that the landing gear is in the loop (shown schematically in the figure).
Such reinforcement will allow, during landing, not to tear off the rudder together with the tail landing gear.
It remains only to secure in a convenient way rear wheel on axle
Of course, these are far from the only options. self-made chassis, but this is one of the most economical. In addition, as can be seen in the photo, they can be combined using purchased wheels and homemade stands.
The idea of \ u200b \ u200bcreating a radio-controlled car model arose a long time ago. But the implementation of this idea in plastic and metal all the time hindered some objective reasons. Firstly, the complete lack of experience in the design and construction of such a model (my hobby is aircraft modeling, and the structure and operation of some units of car models, the types of materials used, engines, batteries, the selection of a gearbox, etc. I was very vague). Secondly, the complete absence of literature on this topic. Thirdly, the lack of components (motors, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). Surprisingly, the latter problem was quickly and easily resolved. I work at a data center, and the guys who know about my hobby for modeling somehow gave me some decommissioned printing mechanisms from printers and tape drives. From all these "pieces of iron" I managed to pick up several pairs of gears with different gear ratios, several high-quality steel shafts for axles and small bearings. Literature was also quite simple: I reviewed all the magazines "Modelist-Constructor" in my own library and in my library, and found some interesting articles for me. For a start, it was decided to build the most simple model(no differential, no depreciation, no bearings, engine - from the car door lock locking mechanism, power supply - 8-10 SC-0.55 A / h batteries).
After closer acquaintance with the catalog and models of the TAMIYA firm, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop blueprints again. Due to the rather high complexity of the components of proprietary models (almost all parts are cast and of complex configuration), a transmission containing many parts, low strength and durability of mechanisms (please note that this is my subjective opinion), I do not even design an all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis tried to. The prototype was the chassis from the Formula 1 model; the model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet fiberglass, steel, duralumin, caprolactam, microporous rubber. The differential was made according to the description in the "Model-constructor", the front suspension is similar to the proprietary one, but made of fiberglass, the regulator is home-made, mechanical. During operation, some nuances arose that did not suit me. First, the wheels are completely unprotected from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension arms several times and the rear axle axle a couple of times. Secondly, a very dense arrangement of mechanisms under the body of a small volume, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of units. Thirdly, the material for the parts of the differential was poorly chosen, and its work did not suit me.
Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience in the creation and operation of such models, a slightly different version of the chassis was developed. The changes mainly affected the type of chassis (for a closed body), the layout of the units, some parts of the differential, the steering gear protection unit. It is rather difficult for me to give an objective assessment of my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to the TAMIYA models, the chassis is faster (although the comparison was made visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard, without additional options). Parts and mechanisms are simpler than branded ones, in case of breakage, they can be easily repaired or repaired.
Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with the branded components (wheels, differential parts, etc.). But I think that by changing the size and configuration of some parts of the front suspension and rear axle, it is quite possible to apply the standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., produced by firms. In addition, by changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the base and track of the chassis, that is, to make a chassis for any body closed type... And, finally, the chassis did not cost me $ 200 plus about the same for tuning (maybe somewhere the prices are lower, but we have such).
In this material, I in no way want to belittle the merits and achievements of manufacturers of model products, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and accessories for them or pretend to be new ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine, however, I sometimes used other materials, changed something and modified it taking into account the details that I had. In general, what I have succeeded is what I bring to your attention.
Brief technical characteristics
| Chassis type | backward |
| Base | 260 mm |
| Rear wheel width | 200 mm |
| Front wheel width | 188 mm |
| Ground clearance | 14 mm |
| Chassis weight | 700 g |
| Transfer type | single stage open gear; K = 1: 4.2 or K = 1: 4.5 |
| engine's type | Mabuchi 540, Speed 600 of various modifications |
| Front suspension | independent, depreciation - fiberglass plate |
| Rear suspension | dependent, depreciation - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper |
| Batteries | 7.2 Vx1400mA / h plus 4.8Vx260mA / h for on-board equipment |
Description of the structure
Chassis base
Functionally, the chassis consists of three main components: a chassis base, a rear axle with a shock absorption system and a front suspension with a shock absorption system and a protective clutch. The base of the chassis is part 1, cut from 2.5 mm thick fiberglass. On this part, they are installed in the corresponding grooves of the sidewalls 3 and 4, which form a box-case for placing power batteries. After installing these parts, the joints are degreased and spilled epoxy resin... On racks 5 (material-duralumin or Aluminium alloy) the "second floor" of the chassis 2 is attached, on which the steering gears, the travel regulator, the attachment points for the oil shock absorber and the protective coupling of the steering gear are located. It should be noted that the grooves of part 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewalls 3 (these places are not glued!). This assembled design increases the strength of the battery box. Brackets 6 are installed in front of the rear wheels, which play the role of protective "ears" and, in addition, they are equipped with body fastening pins. At the front of the chassis, the body can be attached to similar pins installed in the bumper area. The bumper configuration depends on the prototype bow and is not shown in the drawings. Also, the attachment points of the body pins are not shown. Their location depends on the contours of the prototype hood. Due to the fact that fiberglass is inferior in strength to carbon fiber, the relief windows are cut out only in the parts that form the box for the power battery.
Rear axle with shock absorption system
Rear axle made as a single, easily removable unit, which increases the convenience of repair and maintenance. The base of the bridge (see. section A-A) - fiberglass plate 3 2.5 mm thick (you can use duralumin 2 mm thick). The motor frame 1 and the left wheel rack 2, made of 6 mm thick duralumin, are attached to it with M3 screws. The upper frame of the rear axle 4 is fastened from above with the same screws. Bearing cups 5 (right) and 6 (left) are attached to the engine frame and the rack. The right one was machined from steel and brought to the dimensions shown in the drawing; the left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,
closed type. The axle 20, which connects the rear wheels, is made from a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. In the place where the left wheel is installed in the axle, an M2.5 hole is made for the pin. In the hub of the left wheel 17, a groove with a width of 2.5 mm is cut through. When installing the wheel on the axle, the pin enters the cut in the hub and thus prevents the wheel from turning on the axle. The right wheel is connected to the driven gear 11 (the drawing on the left shows the gear that I found, on the right - it is after revision) through a ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the sockets of the cylindrical insert 10 (the cylindrical insert is connected to the gear with six M1.5 screws; holes for the screws are drilled around a circle with a diameter of 37 mm at 60o; a bronze plain bearing 12 is pressed into the insert) ... On both sides, the coupling is compressed with steel hardened washers 9 (washers size 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is glued into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the thrust disk 8. The thrust disk is seated on the axle through a split bronze bushing 7. The thrust ball bearing 15 (made of steel bar; after grooving under the balls of the part are hardened). Adjustment of forces in the coupling is carried out by tightening the nut with a nylon insert 19. To prevent axial displacements, a bushing 21 is installed on the axle 20, which is fixed on the axle with an M3 screw. The right wheel hub 13 and the left disc 16 are machined from caprolactam; two bronze plain bearings 14 are pressed into the right-hand hub. The wheel tires are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial play, a spacer washer 18 is used.
The rear axle is hung on the chassis base through a fiberglass shock absorber plate 22 using three M3 screws. On the base of the chassis, this part is fixed with a screw M4 and a pressure washer 23, which is screwed onto the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the frictional shock-absorbing unit. The latter consists of 25 disc friction washers and springs. The force of the friction clutch is regulated by movement along the axis of the sleeve 27, which is fixed with an M3 screw. The lower support 26, the spring rests on an additional spring bar 28, which is mounted on the struts 29 on the base of the chassis 1.
To dampen vibrations that occur during the operation of the suspension, a damping spring-oil shock absorber is installed. It is attached to part 2 using a duralumin bracket (Node I). The shock absorber is connected to the upper frame of the rear axle 4 by a ball joint (Unit II).
Front suspension
The front suspension was originally simplified ( section Г-Г), and consisted of an upper and lower strip 1 made of foil-clad fiberglass, interconnected by racks 2 and attached to the base of the chassis 1 through rubber washers (Unit III). The swing arm consisted of parts 3, 4, 5, assembled into one unit by soldering. Amortization was carried out with the help of a spring and by moving part 3 along axis 6. On the axis 6, grooves were made for locking washers. Two bronze plain bearings 9 were pressed into the wheel disk 8.
But I didn't like the work of such a suspension, and with the help of an article from the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine, another suspension was developed and manufactured (details are shown in the drawing to the right of the red dashed line). The base is node 1, assembled from parts 1A, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Parts 1B are glued to 1A, for greater strength tightened with M2 screws; part 2 is screwed in with M2 screws. The lower suspension arm 3 consists of a base 3B and two sidewalls 3A (fiberglass 2 mm thick); after fitting and assembly, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy resin. Upper arm 4 consists of shackle 4A, fork 4B and axle 4B. Earring material and
forks - duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 using axles 15; in their places, the axles are fixed with locking washers 16. Using the same axis, a pivot rack 5 is attached to the lower lever (a factory-made part, but it is quite possible to make it from duralumin, simplifying a little). The post 5 is attached to the upper arm 4 with a fork 4B and an M3 screw. The shackle 4A is attached to the unit 1 as shown in view B (the axis of rotation 15 is fixed with locking washers 16, fluoroplastic bushings 14 serve to prevent axial displacement of the shackle). The pivot arm 6 is a piece of duralumin, a steel axle 7 is inserted into it with some interference, after which a vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the axis of rotation 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a lock washer.
Wheel disks 9 are turned from caprolactam. Hubs 10 are made of duralumin, fastened to the discs with three M2.5 screws. Bearings - 13x6x3, enclosed design. Wheel tires are made of microporous rubber.
Amortization is carried out using a plate 11 made of fiberglass, which is pressed against the base 1B by an M3 screw and a duralumin washer 12. The free ends of the plate rest on fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are put on the axle 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to the thickness and width of the plate 11 rather within wide limits.
The steering gear protector is an assembly shown in section B-B... Compared to the node published in the "Modeler-Constructor", it has been slightly redesigned. The base is a steel axle 1, on which a bronze part 3 is fitted into an interference fit. After that, a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is drilled in these parts together, a pin is inserted and sealed. Thus, part 1 and 3 are tightly connected. The rocker 4 is soldered to part 2, and the assembly is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axle 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the hole in the base 1). The second bearing is a nylon bushing 5, installed in part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm on part 5 must be selected so as to ensure the minimum backlash of the axle 1 of the protective clutch, but at the same time the ease of rotation of the unit. The clutch is set in rotation using a duralumin rocker 7.
Conclusion
A few words about the model itself. The Ferrari F40 served as a prototype, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed based on the actual dimensions of the car, on a scale of 1:10. The body is made of fiberglass, glued on a dummy. Control equipment - Graupner FM-314, steering gears - standard 508 (similar in size to HS 422 Hitec).
I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the course of my thoughts during the development and the procedure for manufacturing the chassis. It is possible that some of the nodes could have been made differently, using different materials, or Constructive decisions... I want to give little advice for those who want to repeat this model. First, you need to select the components (gears, shock absorber, swing arms, etc. homemade parts... After that, you may have to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then start manufacturing. If anyone has any questions, suggestions, criticism, I will be glad to talk on the forum.
Autumn has come. This summer, somehow, very quickly flashed before it offensively. I never went to the lake (and I even dreamed about it a couple of times) ... Well, okay. Let's talk about what interesting happened this summer. Firstly, after an offensive accident, I resuscitated my heavy transport vehicle by putting a half-copy steering rack on it. I'll tell you about her.
I always wanted to do something similar. You can, of course, buy ready-made solution... For example, here is such a rack. Or even a whole set. But, unfortunately, my budget is now very limited. This is firstly, and secondly and thirdly - I still wanted to make it not so difficult to manufacture do-it-yourself semi-copy steering rack for an aircraft model.
How to make a do-it-yourself semi-replica steering rack with spring damping
So, what you need:
We drill holes in a tube of smaller diameter (they have already been drilled in the photo above). The distance depends on the diameter of the wheels. Great accuracy is not needed - the proportions in the photo are enough. The holes must be drilled exactly through the center of the tube. Moreover, the hole farther from the edge - try to drill under the thinnest bolt that you find (for example, under 2mm). What for? And then, the larger the hole diameter, the lower the strength of the tube in this place.
We do not touch the larger diameter pipe at all now.
Bend the clamp out of the aluminum strip and put it on the tube. Actually, here is a composite photo. 
Hmmm .. do you know what I thought now? I think that the hole in the tube for attaching this node in the photo above does not need to be drilled. But then you need to securely fix this knot on the tube in another way. Well, for example. put on glue. Advantages of rejecting the hole - the strength of the tube does not decrease. So, but I digress.
After such an attachment, the rocking chair from the servo must be wound with a strong thread and grease the thread with superglue. We get a very strong monolithic knot. Yes, I just thought it might look very scary. Well, yes. It's true - scary, but it's generally impromptu ... just played. The next rack (and I liked these racks!) I will do more accurately. There is also plan "B" - to get rich and buy ready-made.
Assembling the rack 
Between the plywoods at the place where the wheels are attached - we give some kind of spacer, thick for the diameter of the rack. The spring for the steering shock absorber must be sufficiently stiff.
Next, you need to tackle the larger diameter tube. I didn't bother ... I have a transport plane and so from the inside all polyurethane foam filled. So I screwed a piece of wood to the tube, stuffed it into the fuselage and covered it with foam. 
I think that this steering column with shock absorption without any problems it will be possible to attach it to the plywood (balsa) frame in a less radical way. Well, for aircraft models from the ceiling, it will be necessary to think over amplifications for a tube of a larger diameter.
Ask any kid who builds his first schematic model what he dreams of. Almost certainly he will answer - a copy. This is understandable. It is not for nothing that it is believed that a copy model is one of the most interesting and complex classes of aircraft modeling. By building copies, model airplanes get acquainted with the technical achievements of aviation, master the perfect techniques for using the instrument.
Many letters come to the editorial office with a request to tell about the most simple and affordable option cleaning and landing gear on replica models. We propose a scheme developed in the KYuT aircraft modeling circle of the heavy machine tool plant in the city of Kolomna. It is made on a replica model of the An-24 aircraft. Its designer Yuri Shabalin became the champion of the Moscow region and the silver medalist of the 1974 All-Russian competition for schoolchildren.
The mechanism for retracting and releasing the chassis on the copy model is presented the following requirements: the structure should be simple and reliable in operation, it should contain as few parts as possible, be light in weight, allow you to quickly replace parts that have failed during operation, and check them during routine inspections. Taking these requirements into account, we built the model.
The operation of the mechanism for cleaning and releasing the landing gear is carried out as follows: the DP-10 microelectric motor transmits rotation to the drum through a gearbox. The cable is attached at one end to the bottom of the upper brace, at the other end to the drum. Winding on the drum, it pulls the lower part of the upper brace, which is pivotally connected to the lower one and therefore carries the main strut along with it. The main landing gear is held in the retracted position by a tensioned cable. The intermediate swinging block guides the cable and reduces friction when driving. The upper brace, describing an arc, thereby changes the angle of the harvesting cable in the interval from its attachment point in the upper brace to the movable block. And since the intermediate block is located in bearings, it moves behind the cable, holding it in the groove and guiding it into the connecting tube leading to the working drum.
1 - wheel; 2 - landing gear; 3 - lower ear; 4 - lower brace; 5 - upper brace; 6 - locking spring; 7 - axis of the locking spring; 8 - rear strut hinge bracket; 9 - rack hinge bracket; 10 - bracket mounting bolts; 11 - pivot axis of the rack; 12- cotter pin; 13 - washer; 14 - block roller; 15- sleeve bearing; 16 - block body; 17 - rope for cleaning the rack, 18 - block.
1- wheel; 2 - stoic; 3 - rack hinge bracket; 4 - locking latch; 5 - intermediate block; 6 - cable for cleaning 7. - axle of the rack suspension; 8 cotter pin; 9 - returnable spring; 10 - latch retaining spring; 11-axis hinge of the retaining spring.
The main landing gear legs (fig. 1) are extended in the opposite direction. By loosening the tension on the cable, the steak with the help of a return spring comes out of the nacelle and is placed on the stop.
Harvesting the front steak (fig. 2) of the chassis is as follows.
One end of the cable is rigidly fixed to the drum of the main rack. Stretching by the gearbox drum, it removes the locking latch from the groove (rack stop) and removes the rack through the intermediate block.
The A-pillar is released in the opposite direction. Under the action of the return spring, it comes out, loosening the tension on the cable. The spring inserts the drum latch into its slot.
All parts of the landing gear, except for axles and springs, are made of D-16T duralumin.
When assembling and adjusting the landing gear legs, it is necessary to achieve alignment and free movement of all pivot joints.
The axles of the main landing gear components can be quickly disassembled and malfunctioned.
The control mechanism (Fig. 3) is located on the center section at the junction of the wing with the fuselage. It is better to make it removable so that you can make improvements or repairs.
The mechanism is controlled by a switch. The electromechanism is powered by two 3336L batteries connected in series. They are near the pilot in the center of the circle. The current is transmitted through a cable made of two PELSHO-0.25 wires and suspended from the cords.
The wiring diagram for the control of the retraction mechanism and the landing gear release of the model-copy of the An-24 aircraft is given in Figure 4.
V. KLIMCHENKO, Y. SHABALIN
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The main landing gear of the aircraft is one of the most noticeable elements of the model. In addition to the fact that they actually carry a miniature plane on them, the racks themselves are striking. And on a real plane, they often have braking system hoses and pipes mounted on them, which are quite noticeable and, being imitated, greatly adorn the model. Let's talk about this.
There are quite a few ways to simulate hydraulic or pneumatic piping, all of them are good in their own way, but they are different in terms of labor intensity. The easiest way is to glue the imitation from the photo-etched set, but where have you seen flat hoses or tubes? rectangular section? This means that the most suitable material is the one that has a circular cross-section. Many consider copper wire to be the most suitable - it bends well and holds its shape, it is easy to paint, and is available.
Now I must say about the methods of attaching the "tubes" and "hoses" to the rack itself. There are also several of them. You can simply glue it on, you can fix it with strips of scotch tape, model or foil - the result is good, especially since on real aircraft the hoses are often fastened with clamps, which the tape imitates. But you can do it in another way.
The method resembles the method of attaching tension antennas, which I described earlier in one of the articles. At the heart of the same rings with tails made of thin wire, made with a thin drill, but only in this case, not one revolution is made around the drill, but several. Three turns is enough. The twisted tail is cut to a size of 0.5-1mm and the loop is ready.
Then, in the assembled and painted landing gear, holes are drilled with a diameter slightly larger than the "tails" of the prepared loops. The number and location of loops should be determined from photographs of real aircraft.
The loop is strung on a wire, the tail is dipped into SuperMoment (or any other cyanoacrylate glue, preferably gel, so that the position of the part can be corrected before the glue sets) and inserted into the hole in the rack. The direction of the eyelet hole must, of course, correspond to the direction of the future hose or tube.
We select copper wire of a suitable diameter, cut off a piece with a margin of ~ 1 cm and heat it red-hot over the fire. The segment must be held by the very tip with tweezers and then allowed to cool in the air. Be careful when doing this!
The wire has become much softer and now we carefully thread it through all the loops, laying our own highway. We make a bend in the area of the wheel disk, taking into account that this end of the "hose" will be inserted into the wheel disk, into a pre-drilled hole.
Now you can paint. We paint the loops, pouring abundantly of paint, then, after drying, the loops on the rings will not be noticeable. We paint the "hose" carefully, without climbing onto the surface of the rack.
An already painted wheel is put on the stand, the "hose" is inserted into the hole in the disc, cut from above to size and the stand is ready for installation on the model.
In the same way, you can fix wiring simulations. different systems in other places of the model - engines, various compartments, cabins, etc. I'll show this using the chassis niche as an example (P-47D, Tamiya 148).
In general, the technology is the same as described above. Since the wire will be used different sections, then the diameters of the loops are different. The produced loops are placed in the right places, through them "hoses" and "tubes" are passed, which are laid on the surface in the order corresponding to their placement on the prototype.
Coloring can be done in different ways. For example, first apply base color, carefully install the hinges, carefully mount the wiring and carefully paint the tubing-hoses with a thin brush. And you can first put everything together and paint together, but in this case, accurate painting with a wire brush is very important.
Vyacheslav Demchenko.
