Knightly armor with their own hands. How to make a polka dot helmet How to make paper armor with your own hands

» offers to master new material for crafts - cardboard. After all, if you approach any business creatively, then our possibilities will be endless. So cardboard is such a material from which, as it turns out, anything can be made (read how to do it).

What do we know about him about cardboard? For us, this is a common packaging material in which we either store unnecessary things or immediately throw them into the trash. But in vain! With it, you can create the most unusual crafts, and even interior items. Many people think that corrugated cardboard is a fragile material. However, in confirmation of its high strength, an experiment was conducted, during which four ordinary cardboard box set a car. And they endured. Therefore, knowing the features of this material, people are already starting to use it outside the box.

We will make of it Knight armour.

We need sheets of corrugated cardboard, knife, glue, adhesive tape, wide summer and be sure imagination.

Redraw on prepared sheets cardboard pattern patterns armor(you can use any others found on the Internet or in books). sharp knife incut each part in 2 pieces (use adults for this procedure).

Cover the surface of the parts with a thin layer of glue. Press them together under pressure. It is better to start gluing parts from the middle. Back and front armor leave clean. Attach fasteners to the back plate before gluing. For fasteners, use a wide tape. After gluing, the product must be well dried.

In the same way, make a shield, sword, armlets, helmet.

If you wish, you can make more complex sets of knightly armor. Everything depends only on your desire.

For dessert, see what unusual crafts from cardboard, you can do it yourself if you wish.

It's no secret that all the boys love to play knights. All improvised means are used. But where to get the armor? And let's make them out of ...... we will need: glass film (so that the armor shines with silver), shampoo bottles, threads, a thick needle and any paper (we used old newspapers). Let's start with the "armor" itself: We cut a men's T-shirt from the sideboard. Cut out the "flakes" from the shampoo bottles, glue them mirror film and we don’t sew on a “shirt”. We don’t sew the sides of our “shirt”, otherwise it will be inconvenient to put on clothes, but we fasten it with an elastic band or a tie. In the center of the chest we sew a coat of arms made of thick paper (at the choice of a knight). handrails and a shield.We will make them from all the same paper.
We impregnate the newspapers with an ordinary paste, on which wallpaper was previously glued (remember how strong?) Cut out 4 ovals from still wet sheets (layers of 100). We form the necessary bend along the “knight’s” leg and let it dry. We paste them with a mirror film, make holes on the sides from one end of each oval and connect them with ropes for mobility. As in the photo. We do the same handrails, but only 2 pieces.
The most interesting thing is ahead: a shield and a helmet. We make a shield from the same "papier mache". From the resulting sheet (20-25 layers), we cut out any shape you wish and decorate it (we painted with silver, formed a convex pattern from impregnated newspapers and pasted over with a film). With a helmet a little more difficult



We formed it directly on the “knight’s” head, after putting on a bathing cap (but you can get by with half a bag), glued the “visor” on the back of the neck and also pasted it over with a film. The visor is made separately. noticeable and attached to the helmet according to the same principle as the leggings. The knight is ready for exploits!

How to make cosplay armor aslan wrote on August 17th, 2017

I have been cosplaying for only a year, and this is the second full-fledged armor in my life that I made on my own and with my own hand, of course.

Daedric was my first armor, I did everything on a whim, shoveled tons of tutorials, snatched information where I could, but generally wandered in the dark, asking idiotic questions to consultants in hardware stores. Therefore, my first armor is made of fiberglass (body kits for cars are made from this material) based on paper model from pepakura, which is certainly very strong, but at the same time very heavy and incredibly restrictive (for example, it was impossible to bend your back or raise your arms above your shoulders. And the weight is 15 kg.

Plus a terribly smelly, time-consuming and painstaking process of its creation, tons of putty and dust during grinding. In general, all these moments led me to a more detailed study of the world of cosplay and I learned about the special materials that cosplayers use. So I became friends with EVA FOAM. This is a material that resembles ordinary tourist foam, only more dense and, when heated, takes desired shape.

As far as I know, this material is produced in several places in Russia. Personally, I ordered from a supplier from Togliatti. There are sheets of different thickness - 1,2,3,4,5, 10 mm. I took 5 mm as the base and 2 mm for the relief.

In general, unlike pepakura, where the program makes a pattern for you according to a 3D model and then you glue it out of paper, with eva foam you make your own pattern. In some cases, you can not do without a partner or your own mannequin. So how is it done.
First, you take a picture of the image that you want to bring to life.

Secondly, you start making patterns. For example, a bib. You wrap yourself with cling film, glue masking tape on top of the strips (just in strips, without wrapping, otherwise everything will be pinched and the part will come out small). Directly on yourself you mark where the necessary detail begins and ends, you mark some important points, joints, patterns, etc. You carefully cut the masking tape and now you have a sketch of the part. Now it can be defined more evenly, figure out how and what.

Cut the part into several parts so that after gluing them together we get a full-fledged and voluminous part (of course, eva foam can also be bent by heating, but not endlessly). Then you transfer the detail to paper (I used the method - put a sketch on a tablet screen glowing white and redraw the contours over the sketch with paper).

Paper cutting necessary elements, we must try to connect them together on the same masking tape and try on the result. It will be much more offensive to immediately cut the eva foam and screw it up. Then you pin the paper with patterns to the eva foam with pins and outline the contours, cut it out. Eva foam is cut with an ordinary clerical knife. When cutting, it is better to consider how the parts will fit together and cut them at the appropriate angle in relation to each other. And then, for example, I got a kind of "comb" on top of the helmet, which I then had to grind off. Although the irregularities in any case after gluing will have to be grinded off with an engraver or sandpaper.

As for the glue... there is different variants. I have personally tried three. 1.Hot melt adhesive glue gun. A huge minus - if it's hot, there is a chance that the glue will float and the suit will disperse. 2. Second glue. Instantly glues everything and holds perfectly. But terribly harmful and stinks. In the process of work, I generally discovered an allergy to it and angioedema occurred. 3.Good old glue moment. You have to fiddle with it longer than with a second, but tolerable. Smear both sides to be glued, wait 10 minutes and glue. Holds up great.

If there is a chance of getting confused in the cut out details, it is better to number them, otherwise it will be too late later.

After creating my black armor, I began to advocate that the suit could move normally and be more or less comfortable. Moreover, I have a habit of walking my cosplay images in hard modes - skiing or boarding at a ski carnival, riding a bike.

Therefore, this time I paid great attention to the mobility of parts and fasteners. For good bending of the knees, I put their elements on iron rivets. Excellent mobility of parts and everything is firmly held. On the same rivets I attached a plate with feathers to the helmet. You saw off the extra pieces of iron with an engraver and everything is fine.

What did you use for armor mounts. Rubber bands, Velcro, buttons, hooks. All this is quite comfortably sewn to eva foam and hides somewhere under patterns or joints.

A lot of questions I have caused and causes the processing of edges and slices. I did it with the grinding attachments of the engraver. Some people just do it with sandpaper. In any case, after such processing, many irregularities and roughness remain. I tried to smooth them out with a hair dryer. It got better, but not perfect. I was recommended to use a burner and next time I will try this method. To smooth joints and seams, it is necessary to use putty. For me the best option is a finishing two-component auto-filler. It stays on tight and polishes well.

But the armor cannot be completely covered, and the material is porous ... In short, we will now talk about the primer. And here the opinions of all the cosplayers I interviewed differ. The trick is that eva foam is pretty flexible material and the applied paint wrinkles and cracks when bent. How to avoid this completely, I personally never thought of it, and if you know, I will be very glad for advice. In general, at first, according to the recommendations, I tried pva glue as a primer. I don't know why, but after applying acrylic black paint on it, it gave such an effect. And the paint completely peeled off.

After that, after reading various sources, I decided to prime simply acrylic paint, that is, put more layers and due to this, close the pores and level the material. Painted with a brush. Then spray for an even color.

Then with a silver brush and a little silver spray for an even color. Then in some places finishing with gold acrylic. Varnish. Also a separate big question. I didn't quite figure it out for myself either. Tried brushing with acrylic lacquer. It dries for a very long time and if the parts are put side by side, they stick together and spoil each other. Spat and covered with aerosol varnish.

Why do I care so much about priming, painting and varnishing? Because as you can see in the picture below, a slight bending of the part leads to cracks... I don't know how to solve this problem. Here, both the primer and the paint and varnish should be elastic ... and not peel off ... probably next time I will try liquid rubber.

Sword. Made from wood for rigidity. The wings are epoxy glued on the sides. Grinding, embossing with pieces of eva foam, putty and sanding. "Stones" on the sword and armor made of two-component cold welding. Primer, paint, varnish.

To my great regret, the artist from me is so-so and I did not succeed in giving the volume to my armor as I wanted to the full extent. I have yet to learn this.

About armor mounts. Upwards. The top of the boot is held at the back by a very wide elastic band, the lining on the boot is also on elastic bands on the toe of the boot and between the heel and toe on the elastic band from the top. Knee pads with elastic bands and buttons. Plus, I forgot to film the production of the top of the knee pads and armor under the breastplate. This is faux black leather as the base. On top of it, cut-out pieces of the same leather are glued on for a moment and all this is tinted with silver acrylic. So. On the legs, the leather part of the knee pads is attached to the back of the hooks, on the hooks with a small strip of leather, they are attached to the corset so that they do not slip. Also, thigh pads are attached to the corset on the sides with Velcro. By the way, under one of the leggings there is a tricky pocket for a phone and money.

Corset at the back with Velcro and hooks. Belt with hooks. Bib with elastic and hooks at the back like a bodice. Now it's more difficult. The shoulder pads are fastened to the bib on fastexes in front, on the back with an elastic band between them, on an elastic band with hooks to the upper bracers, on a button to the elbow pads. The lower bracers are two-piece. The bottom is like a bracelet with an elastic band, the top is with an elastic band with buttons.
Cloak on hooks in front of the armor and on the buttons to the shoulder pads.

By the way, I forgot to write about gloves. These are simple fabric gloves (100 r in a fabric store), cut out pieces of thin eva on top of the hot glue.
Well, in principle, that's all, I made it all in about 2 months.

This article will walk you through the creation process their hands light and durable armor made of a material called Wonderflex.

Wonderflex is a very versatile material, but there are certain limitations to its use.

In the images above, all armor pieces except for the helmet were made from a combination of Wonderflex and Apoxie.

Step 1: What is Wonderflex?

Wonderflex is a low melting thermoplastic (150°-170°F "activation" temperature), with a woven fiber backing on one side. When heated, the material can stretch, repeat the shape of the workpiece.

Wonderflex sheets can be joined together. The more you heat the material, the stronger the bond will be. For heating, I recommend using heat guns, but you can also microwave smaller pieces.

Let's take the “conditional” that most people have at home: markers, rulers, well-lit workplaces. I would like to offer a set of tools for working with Wonderflex:

• Heat gun;
• Trauma scissors (they have a serrated edge that allows you to cut 3 layers of Wonderflex fairly easily)
• Hand punch (Wonderflex is pretty bad at drilling. For clean holes, a punch is best);
• Roller - for gluing sheets together;

• Blanks for molding armor elements;
• Grinding sponges - to smooth the texture of the material;
• Polyester filler and primer;
• soldering iron;
• Respirator, gloves and goggles;

For volumetric parts, we will use a material called Apoxie Sculpt (clay), which hardens overnight, dries, almost no shrinkage and is easy to sand. When working with Apoxie, some clay tools may come in handy.

Step 3: Create Armor Templates

Any project always starts with drawings. There are many ways to get them. First of all, if the image of the desired replica is in a video game, an experienced craftsman will be able to extract files in the form of a 3D model that can be manipulated.

I had a mannequin that matched the size of my torso. After printing out the set of armor templates, tape the pieces together to visualize the shape of the armor. If the pieces do not match and further adjustments are needed, make the necessary changes to the template and then print a new piece.

Paper is a good counterpart to Wonderflex. Spend time customizing templates. If you can set up all the elements properly, you can save a lot of time and frustration later on when trying to mold Wonderflex.

Step 4: Thicken the Sheets

Once the templates are sorted, it's time to transfer them to Wonderflex.

The thickness of one layer is actually quite small and the material will not hold the given shape under any impact on it. In addition, when forming parts from only one layer, the material will wrinkle along those areas that are stretched. To solve this problem, we will connect several sheets together before forming parts of the costume from them.

For large areas, such as chest and back, it was decided to use three layers. We heat them with a heat gun, and then roll them with a roller. In order to pre-fasten the sheets together and they do not move during rolling, you can use a pin or similar object. However, I recommend that you first make sure that the heated Wonderflex will not stick to the surface of the roller. My roller has a silicone drum, so that wasn't a problem.

For other parts that don't wear as much (shoulders and hips), use 2 sheets each to make a preliminary base for the armor pieces.

Step 5: Basic Components

After the sheets are compacted, it's time to cut the blanks.

It is much easier to cut out a shape from a pre-formed piece. After all, if you cut a piece and then stretch it in shape, then in the end the result will be “crooked”.

The first picture shows an "empty" panel. This part was made with 2 layers of Wonderflex. Let's use the old plastic pipe(you can take any non-porous and heat resistant material) to achieve the desired curvature. You can use large adapters from PVC pipes- strict lines and high temperature resistance will make them an excellent tool for Wonderflex molding. In order to prevent sticking, cover part of the sheet with metallic tape.

To cool simple shapes, use a bucket of cold water.

After heating the sheet, give it the desired shape, then immerse it in water. It takes about 5 minutes to cool completely (in air), but with the bucket method, the process takes seconds.

After we got the desired shape, take the pattern and circle it on the workpiece. We use small clamps to fix the template while drawing.

After transferring the contours of the template, simply cut out the desired shape. As I wrote earlier, Wonderflex used trauma scissors for cutting. Although a stationery knife also works great.

Step 6: Grease, Shape, Bend, Repeat...

There are some pieces of armor that cannot be obtained in the above way.

Unlike the previous stage, you first need to transfer the drawing and only after that gradually form the element of the costume.

Starting from the lower leg, I formed the main details using the leg of the mannequin. While this allowed me to achieve fairly accurate basic shapes, fine lines and wavy edges remained. In this case, to smooth them out, you need to concentrate on one area, heat it, form curves, and then soak in a bucket of ice water.

Step 7:

In picture 2 you can see the method of forming the sections of the back and chest. Since these parts are too large to fit in a bucket of ice water, it is worth starting the heating process by placing on top of the sheet wet towel. After completion, the workpiece is covered with a second towel dipped in ice water.

We repeat this process several times until we reach the desired shape. It took several passes and stretching around the corners and edges to get to this "point".

In the picture, you can see the front chest plate after molding. Let's make small cuts along the arms and neck in order to stretch the shape along the edges and increase the curvature. Then we will cover them with thin strips of Wonderflex to strengthen the seams. If the armor needs to be smooth in these areas, you can close these cuts on the back to give the finish a smooth look.

Once the pieces are shaped, it's a good idea to try them on on a mannequin to make sure all the seams line up.

Step 8: Add Overlay Details

Wonderflex works great with large surfaces and wide shapes, but for more defined areas and crisp details, you will need to use a different material.

I prefer to use Apoxie Sculpt 2-component epoxy clay. All volumetric details, with the exception of the details of the shoulder pads, were molded from it.

I would like to note that the placement of additional parts (on the lower leg) will hide the seam line between the two halves of the Wonderflex and make the surface of the armor element a single whole. Apoxie works pretty well with abrasive.

For the manufacture of rivets for armor, we will use furniture nails. Pre-drill a hole, cut off the pointed end and superglue them in place.

Step 9: Sand and Smooth the Surface

Don't forget to wear a respirator first. All work should be carried out outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.

The first step is to sand down the formed armor pieces with coarse sandpaper. Depending on how well you have sculpted the shapes, the process can be either very short or very long.

After the surface of the clay is leveled, cover the parts with a car primer in three layers. All small bumps and ripples will need to be smoothed out. For small defects We will use putty as a filler. It is important to apply small layers of putty to parts that will be subject to folds, because it can break during kinks.

For the chest and back, which have many small dents, we use the sponge sanding method.

If you have areas with deep defects or large dents, you can use polyester filler. This padding can flex slightly, which allows the Wonderflex to not become completely rigid.

After applying the filler, apply a couple more layers of primer. If you are going to age the surface of the armor, you may leave some external defects.

When sanding Wonderflex, you can get edges that stick out of the fibers. A quick pass with a hot knife or soldering iron will fix this problem.

Sketch your future armor. It's better to focus on the basic shapes (their size and how to put the pieces of armor together) rather than the color and details that you can work on later. Decide where and how individual parts will be connected to keep the armor flexible. Simplify the design as much as you can so that a lot of parts don't knock together and don't have to be connected in many places (this will weaken the design). You can also look for ready-made armor templates online, some of which you can even print.

Take measurements from the person so that the armor fits true to size (mark the size of the armor, e.g. S, M, or L). Write down all the necessary volumes that are needed to make a helmet, breastplate, armor on the shoulders and various other coverings. Though it won't be yours the main support when choosing the size of the armor, it will be useful whenever you cut, connect or make any changes that you may not be sure of.

Transfer your measurements to the stencil (template) of the armor. You will be faster if your friend holds pieces of flexible and hard paper (like cardboard) in front of you and draws each detail of the sketch separately, making a rough stroke so that you can then redo it as you need. It will be more accurate if you make a mannequin to assemble a paper stencil around it.

Give the stencil its final shape. Make sure you have all the parts you need and adjust if needed. If the template has 2 identical parts (two shin plates, two gloves, etc.), choose the best one and discard the other. Thus, you can use the best one as a template for the second one so that your armor is symmetrical. When you're happy with the result, clean up and soften the stroke, mark the original sketch and its corresponding part (marking which ones will be duplicated) and cut it out.

Transfer the stencil to the sheet foam. Circle every detail on sheet foam ballpoint pen(she will slide over the foam without catching or scratching it), if necessary, circling a second time. To make very large pieces, you may need to staple 2 sheets of foam together, preferably where it's less visible and can blend into the design (like the seam down the center of a bib). Mark the wrong side and cut out the details.

• To use the foam sparingly, circle the large parts first, then fit the small ones around them.