Do-it-yourself band saw for wood. Do-it-yourself band saw: drawings and tips for making Homemade band saw for wood drawing

Many tasks can be performed with a specialized band saw created by with my own hands. Using the recommendations of the proposed article, it is quite simple to reproduce this device.

1 - tape drive pulley (lower), 2 - base, 3 - band saw, 4 - V-belt A710, 5 - damper, 6 - guide, 7 - carrier rod, 8 - tape drive pulley (upper), 9 - table ( plywood s20), 10 - AOL-22-2 electric motor, 11 - belt drive pulleys, 12 - bracket (steel angle 40x40), 13 - M12 nut (2 pcs.), 14 - upper support, 15 - adjusting screw, 16 - slider

The desktop of a home-made band saw (dimensions 420x720 mm) is made of plywood 20 mm thick, pasted over with textolite on top. Around the perimeter, it is edged with hardwood slats. There are narrow grooves in the table to guide the saw band. The base is a box measuring 420x720x500 mm glued from 20 mm plywood. Among other things, it serves as a place to collect sawdust.

The carrier bar is a section of channel No. 8 680 mm long, the shelves of which are cut to a height of 20 mm for convenience. The bar is attached to the table with a bracket from a 40x40 mm corner and four M8 bolts. The saw band drive pulleys are machined from 20 mm thick plywood. By working surface they are pasted over with dense sheet rubber, docked at the mustache. Used polyurethane adhesive. After rubberizing the pulleys, the wood is impregnated epoxy resin, sanded and painted. The working surface is barrel-shaped, necessary to hold the running saw blade. A duralumin sleeve is glued into the upper pulley with epoxy resin, in which a socket for a 60203 ball bearing is machined. The lower pulley is mounted on an axle made of 30KhGSA steel and fastened with three 5x20 screws. The axle is inserted into a box with two 60203 ball bearings mounted on the lower end of the carrier rod. At the other end of the axle, the driven pulley of the belt drive is fixed through the spacer sleeve. After installation, the belt pulleys are balanced. The principle of operation and the dimensions of the details of the saw band tension system are clear from the figures shown (section A-A).

Tape drive pulley (upper)

The gear ratio of the belt drive from the engine is i=1, so the driving and driven pulleys are the same, except for the mounting hole, which on the driving pulley depends on the motor shaft. Pulleys are made of duralumin. V-belt - A710 (in this design).

To eliminate vibrations of the saw band, a damper (vibration damper) is provided, assembled from textolite parts on M6 bolts. The fixed element of the damper is fixed at the bottom of the desktop, and the movable bar allows you to select the required gap. It should be noted that an upper damper is also provided on the band saw, however, its installation is advisable if the upper pulley of the saw band begins to "hit in diameter". Otherwise, the upper damper only increases the friction of the belt. By design, it is similar to the main one and, if necessary, is mounted on the bar with M5 bolts using a special bracket 105 mm above the plane of the desktop.

1 - base, 2 - M6 bolt (2 pcs.), 3 - strap, 4 - nut with washer.

The guide for feeding the sawn timber is made of a steel angle 100x100 mm. It is desirable to grind its perpendicular planes on the machine. In one of the shelves, two grooves are made along the edges to adjust the gap between the guide and. tape, and in the middle - a cutout to increase the course of the bar. Safety during work is ensured by a protective casing that covers the entire assembly of the upper pulley of the saw band, which leaves the cavity of the casing only in the working area.

The saw blade itself deserves great attention. It must be sufficiently elastic, on the one hand, and durable, on the other. For its manufacture, we recommend cold-rolled sheet steel grade U8, U10 or 65G with a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm for sawing soft woods (balsa, linden) or 0.4-0.8 mm for harder woods. By the way, many people use steel tape measures made of high-quality metal with a thickness of 0.2 mm and a width of about 10 mm for this purpose. "Automatic" modern roulettes with a curved tape profile are unsuitable - only old samples are suitable. The length of the workpiece for the given dimensions of the machine is 1600-1700 mm. On the blank strip, teeth are cut with a file in increments of about 3 mm, after which the tape is soldered into a ring, the ends are sharpened in thickness by a mustache at a length of 3-6 mm. Then the adhesion site is sprinkled with borax and heated on a gas burner. Solder brand PSR-40 is applied to the joint and the seam is tightly compressed with pliers with asbestos pads on the sponges (otherwise, the joint cools quickly and the metal in this zone becomes brittle). If necessary, the joint is ground. To obtain a better cutting surface, the front and rear surfaces of the teeth are sharpened in the same way as a hacksaw for wood and slightly parted. Of course, you can also use commercially available blades for branded band saws, but then the dimensions of the machine should be made in advance in accordance with the dimensions of the purchased blade.

The considered home-made band saw is used for straight-line sawing of soft woods (balsa, linden, aspen, spruce, pine). Harder woods (beech, oak, mahogany) can also be sawn when a 0.8 mm thick tape is installed on the machine.

The disadvantage of this version of a homemade band saw is a small overhang of the blade, but this greatly simplifies the design. If a small blade overhang does not suit you, then in order for the blade overhang to be like that of branded band saws, you will have to make the location of the carrier bar like theirs and use larger diameter pulleys.

Specifications of a homemade band saw:
Maximum sawing thickness, mm
soft breeds - up to 100
hard rocks - up to 40
The smallest cutting width, mm - 0.25
Tape drive pulley diameter, mm - 240
Center distance of belt drive pulleys, mm - up to 500
Gear ratio from engine to drive pulley, i - 1
Engine speed, rpm - 2800
Electric motor power, kW - 0.6
Rated voltage, V - 380
Linear speed of the tape, m/s - 35
Tape length, mm - 1600-1700
Sawing speed, m/min - up to 5
Overall dimensions, mm - 720x420x920

Making your own saw is a painstaking and difficult, but quite doable task. The easiest way to make a homemade band saw is to wooden frame- you don’t have to cook anything, and almost everyone has a carpentry tool.

Frame assembly

For the frame, it is better to choose strong and hard wood, otherwise the structure will turn out to be unreliable and will vibrate. Some elements, such as a desktop, can be made of plywood, and the ribs are edged with slats for rigidity. Most cheap option- dismantle old furniture by putting plywood on pulleys and a table. A maple beam will do for the carrier bar.

First of all, you need to decide on the drawings, according to which the frame will be assembled in the future. So, the size of the band saw itself will depend on the height of the working room. It is necessary to think in advance about the convenient height of the table, the length of the rod and the diameter of the pulleys. Drawings can be both conditional, reflecting only overall dimensions, and detailed, as in the photo.

Installation of the rod and supports for pulleys

The simplest do-it-yourself band saw is on a wooden C-shaped frame, where the support bar is made of a bar with a thickness of at least 8x8 cm, to which two supports are attached from one (conditionally rear) part.

Pulleys will be held on them. It is better to make such supports from strong material; multilayer plywood with a strong core is allowed.

The distance between the supports must be selected so that the logs needed for sawing fit there. In any case, it is recommended to make the distance “with a margin” so that there are no problems in the future.

Desktop Assembly

The height of the table must be comfortable to work on, while still being able to accommodate the lower and drive pulleys, the motor, and a large amount of chips. The form itself can be any, but often it is made in the form of a closed cabinet that serves as a container for sawdust.

It is advisable to provide an easy way to open the table and the waste tray - this way it will be much more convenient to clean the saw.

The tabletop can be installed directly on the bottom support. If the height of the lower support is not enough, do a simple stand under the entire structure, raising it to the desired height.

Cutting pulleys and attaching them to supports

The diameter of the belt drive pulleys can be chosen arbitrarily, but the larger the pulley, the longer and better the saw works. In this case, it is necessary to select the blades correctly, the ideal ratio is 1/1000 of the blade to the pulley diameter. Thus, for forty cm pulleys, the tape should be 4 mm. But at correct operation even on narrow pulleys, you can safely work with 6 mm blades.

The diameter of the belt drive pulley must be selected depending on the diameter of the main pulleys, the length of the belt and the engine speed.

1. The circumference of the saw pulley is calculated: D = 3.14 * pulley diameter.
2. On average, the web speed should be 30 m/sec.
3. The number of revolutions is determined: O = 30 / D;
4. The ratio (C) of the motor revolutions (OM) to the revolutions of the belt drive pulley is calculated: C = OM/O;
5. Drive pulley diameter = D/S.

The edge of the blade pulleys is made convex, with an angle of 5-10 degrees - thanks to this, the saw blade self-centers and does not fall off.

But on the belt drive pulley it is better to make a shallow groove in which the belt will be located. You can fit the pulleys with ordinary cameras from a bicycle or a wheelbarrow.

The diameter is selected one or two sizes smaller than the pulley. This rubber cover prevents the canvas from slipping.

The upper pulley is mounted on a movable block, which must move horizontally, providing tension to the belt.

For this, a special lifting mechanism is provided. The simplest option is a bar located under the block and attached to the lever with a very tight spring. By pressing the lever, the beam raises the block with the pulley, providing the required tension.

It is necessary to provide a way to fix the lever in a given position, for example, with several bolts located at different levels. The spring will provide the necessary pressure and at the same time will dampen the tension, preventing the tape from tearing.

The lower block consists of two pulleys fixed on the axis - driven and leading.

It is important to correctly balance the upper and lower pulleys in the same plane, minimizing the "eights" when the wheels move.

For fastening the upper pulley, it is convenient to use self-centering bearings, which will allow you to quickly remove and put on the wheels.

But they need to be attached to the pulleys as tightly as possible, otherwise the bearings will loosen very quickly. After attaching the wheels to the frame, test run the saw with the utmost care.

Mounting the blade guides

In order for the band saw on wood to make an even cut and the blade not to be “squeezed” by the sawn tree, guides are mounted along the blunt end of the saw on a narrow beam.

The easiest option is to screw three roller bearings to the beam. The flat side of the canvas rests on one, the other two hold the tape tightly on the sides.

Be sure to perfectly align the guides at the attachment point on the support, otherwise even a microscopic vertical deviation can result in 3 mm at the opposite end. It is best to mark the position of the beam with the canvas stretched to the maximum and the guides already mounted. This ensures their exact position relative to the saw blade.

Instead of two bearings on the sides, you can make wooden stops. Also, it will not be superfluous to install additional guides under the countertop, and not just from above.

It should be borne in mind that the guides should be as close as possible to the workpiece, ideally at a distance of 3-4 cm from the log. Therefore, if you plan to cut workpieces of different thicknesses, it makes sense to adjust the height of the guides.

Finishing

A saw made of wood is ready for use after assembly, but it is better to make a casing that covers the upper pulley.

This is not so much for aesthetic purposes as for safety - even if the tape slips off the pulley, it will linger in the casing.

It will not be superfluous to make a chip container that is easy to get and empty.

It is better to take out the belt drive from under the table so that sawdust does not fall on it. To protect the motor, it is also recommended to arrange a cover to prevent the ingress of dust and other particles.

Finishing wood with varnish or paint will not only prolong its life, but also protect your hands from unpleasant rolling pins and chips from untreated wood. Previously, all surfaces must be sanded and treated with antiseptics that prevent decay.

The video provides an overview of a homemade wooden saw and describes the advantages of such a solution:

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How to make a homemade band saw for wood with your own hands

Doing with your own hands a large number of works of one direction or another, which involve the widespread use of boards, wooden beams and similar materials, is associated with the need for sawing logs. It is clear that you can always purchase ready-to-use materials, which in our time will not be difficult, or you can buy a factory band sawmill for industrial use. But such decisions are associated with significant material costs, and this is not always justified.

Homemade saw for wood

A cheaper option is to develop a band saw for wood with your own hands, but for this you will need to have drawings, a durable metal blade, cutting material, and some other details.

The main part of such a home sawmill is a saw and a motor that will set it in motion. The best option- an engine with a power of 10 kW: in this case, it will be possible to cut any logs into boards without any problems using a do-it-yourself machine.

What is needed for self-manufacturing of the machine?

It is quite possible to assemble such a band saw with your own hands according to ready-made drawings, thanks to this it will be possible to saw any logs into boards right at home. To perform such work - self-assembly of the machine - you will need:

some details of old cars;
rolled sectional type;
carrying out locksmith and turning works;
minor welding work.

During the assembly of such a tape machine for wood, you can use old pulleys from any agricultural machinery, optimal diameter which are about 30 cm. The guides of such a home-made sawmill are best made from pipes of two types of metal: a half-inch diameter and a slightly larger one, as a result of which the latter can be put on smaller pipes, leaving a slight gap of about 0.5 mm.

Making a base and a device for fixing logs

At the first stage of carrying out such work by hand, a base is made for the future machine for turning ordinary logs into high-quality boards. Metal corners are suitable as a material for this. They should be installed upside down, while it is necessary to achieve maximum accuracy in adjusting the wheels, otherwise they will wear out quickly.

Perpendicular to these corners, profile pipes with dimensions of 2.5 × 2.5 mm are welded, between them there is a pipe with a diameter of half an inch, on which claws are fixed, which are fasteners for logs.

Such fasteners should move easily in the right directions. To securely fix the log, it is enough to hit the clamps with a hammer a couple of times, as a result of which the material fixation mechanism will jam, and it will be possible to carry out all the required operations with it.

When assembling a band saw with your own hands, hard metal profile pipes that are installed perpendicular to the base must be made in such a way that they protrude slightly beyond the base. In addition, jumpers should be installed on these pipes: logs will be placed on them before sawing on the machine.

How to properly install pulleys

The pulleys of the machine should be undermined in such a way that, when put on, the belt protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond their edge. All such a structure moves along special guides - pipes, which are located horizontally. This assembly, if necessary, can be fixed in place with bolts.

To prevent the tape from falling off the pulleys while working on the machine, they must not be installed in parallel, but at a slight slope - as a result of such an installation, the tape will “stretch” itself onto the rollers during saw operation.

The right pulley is used as a slave, so it is necessary to attach a spring to it, which automatically tensions it during operation. The left pulley, therefore, is the leading one, therefore it is necessary to fix it rigidly when assembling the tape machine with your own hands. When changing the size of the saw, the drive pulley must be shifted.

How to make the right roller knot

In a hand-made band saw, the best option would be to use hardened rollers. The right decision would be to make the entire assembly with rollers with your own hands and be sure of its reliability, and not use a ready-made one.

This assembly consists of 3 bearings, two of which are brand 202, and one more, at the back, is slightly larger. The shaft and rollers must be machined in such a way that in the event of a decrease or increase in the width of the saw of the machine, it remains possible to install washers between the bearings.

The shaft should fit into two tubes: a half-inch and a slightly larger one, inserting one into the other. In a half-inch pipe, the shaft should have a slight axial offset, in fact it is welded to the bottom wall.

This entire assembly of the machine, which consists of tubes and a shaft, is attached to the guides with their own hands in such a way that it is possible to adjust the roller assembly in height, move it to the sides depending on the diameter of the logs processed on a self-made machine, and also securely fix it after the end of the adjustment.

Frame and accessories

The frame, the height of which should be one and a half meters, is made by hand from channel 100, to give the structure additional rigidity, it is reinforced with scarves. The block of the machine, which will cut the logs, will move along the channels with the help of stud screws. Rigid fixation to the sawmill of the cutting unit of the saw is carried out by means of bolts with locknuts.

To make the machine more convenient to use, you can make an additional device for it with your own hands in which chips will be collected. In the simplest case, this is an ordinary wooden or plywood box, you can also use something else like that.

Ready homemade band sawmill

Thus, a home-made band saw according to the drawings can be made independently even in a garage or a small home workshop. But thanks to such a home-made tool with a saw, you can produce boards right on your site by sawing logs.

Working on such a tool, made according to ready-made drawings with your own hands, is quite simple. Putting a log on the bed, fixing it and turning on the mechanism, he will quickly make the necessary processing of the log with a band saw.

In the process of using a home-made machine, it is necessary to constantly ensure that its saw always remains sharp, and also adhere to safety regulations.

For a good owner, having all the necessary equipment is happiness. It is especially important to have various devices for those people who live in their own home. For example, a homemade band saw will greatly facilitate the work with wooden products. At the same time, as it is already clear, the device can be built by yourself from improvised materials.

Applications and unit design

In principle, the device is used in sawmills in industrial or domestic settings. It has certain advantages and disadvantages, but it is used very widely.

The device of this unit is quite simple. An electric motor and pulleys are mounted on a stable frame. A cutting blade is attached to them. Thanks to the engine, the operation of the device is ensured. Depending on the type of blade, you have the opportunity to cut not only wood, but also metals, alloys, polypropylene.

Advantages and disadvantages of the device

Do-it-yourself band saw is done quickly enough. Naturally, in this case, you must comply with all the requirements of the drawing and be accurate. However, first you need to decide whether it is worth doing it. To do this, it is necessary to consider all the pros and cons of the unit. So, among the advantages are the following:

— High level performance.

- Low heat dissipation.

- Excellent work accuracy and high speed.

- Possibility to produce blanks according to individual parameters. At the same time, you can cut not only in a straight line, but also in curved bends.

- For the manufacture and use of the tool, you do not need a large amount Money.

- A band saw, which is not so difficult to make with your own hands, leaves a cut of a small width. Thanks to this, you get a minimum of waste. This is very important for the production of various wood products.

Naturally, a band saw, which you can make with your own hands in a few days, is not without flaws. For example, you can only make longitudinal cuts with such a device, since its design will not allow you to do something else. During operation, the machine may make a lot of noise and vibration. In addition, the device is large. If you decide to make such a machine yourself, then you will have to use special equipment.

If you are not afraid of the shortcomings, then such a device can bring a lot of benefits to the owner.

Which canvas should you choose?

A do-it-yourself band saw can be made from materials that can be found at home. However, the canvas will have to buy. Before that, it is worth deciding what it should be. To do this, you need to know what you are going to cut. So, there are such canvases:

1. Bimetallic. They are used for cutting sufficiently strong alloys, stainless steel. In this case, you can be sure that the tape will not burst.

2. Diamond. They are used when it is necessary to process marble, granite, quartz and other hardest materials.

3. Carbide. They can be used to cut alloys that are difficult to work with.

4. From tool steel. Such canvases are most often used at home or small workshops. They are best suited for working with simple materials.

Types of machines

Before you start making band saws, you should understand their types. There is such a classification of devices:

- Toothless. They have high performance and can work with metal. A feature of such devices is that they still have small teeth. They work due to friction and additional heating.

- Toothed. They can be used to cut wood or plastic. A feature of the canvases in such devices is that they are closed.

- Electrical. Most often they are installed in large industries where you need to process a large amount of material.

What materials are needed for manufacturing?

It should be noted that not the entire structure can be built from improvised means. Therefore, before making a band saw, you should collect the necessary parts:

1. Wooden boards, chipboard, MDF or plywood. From these materials, the frame and cabinet for the saw, as well as pulleys, are made.

2. Sheet steel for the production of a cutting blade or a ready-made part that can be purchased at a store.

3. Channel and steel bar. These parts are used to make the base frame and the axle on which the pulleys will be installed.

4. Sheet rubber. It is used to protect wood.

5. A strong belt that will ensure the rotation of the wheels on the machine.

6. Polyurethane adhesive to join some parts.

7. Fasteners: self-tapping screws, brackets, bolts, washers and rubber gaskets.

9. Electric motor. Should not buy very expensive model. Just decide how much power the machine should have.

Thus, a do-it-yourself band saw can be built. Drawings of this design should be done, calculating each step as accurately as possible. Naturally, you can find all the schemes already in finished form.

Required Tool

In order to start making a band saw with your own hands, you need to prepare. You need these tools:

- Cutting and grinding machine.

Naturally, other tools may be needed. For example, a milling machine.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of the device

Now you should start producing the presented unit. To do this, you will have to carry out several steps:

1. If you decide to make an assembly such as a band saw with your own hands, you should already have drawings. They are the key to success. It’s worth starting with the construction of a table and a cabinet on which the mechanism will be fixed. For this you will need furniture board or a tree.

3. Now you can make a frame for assembling the entire device. It may have a C-shape, which provides good tape retention. The support frame is made of a channel on which a steel axle is put on.

4. Now let's deal with the pulleys. They must be put on the axle with bushings, and at its different ends. Naturally, both pulleys must be balanced.

5. In order for the tape not to vibrate, it is necessary to use a damper.

6. All moving parts must be connected to the motor.

7. You can also build a guide mechanism with which the material to be processed will be fed. For this, metal corners are used.

Features of setting up the device

A homemade band saw for wood must be carefully prepared for work. To do this, it should be tested and adjusted. The cutting tape must be strictly at a right angle. Any slight distortion can stop the operation of the machine and become life-threatening.

Please note that the cutting belt must be as tight as possible. Use the driven pulley to adjust. It is with his help that you can normally adjust your machine. It should also be noted that the welding of band saws used in the manufacture (doing it yourself is quite simple) will ensure good strength and stability of the machine.

Saw sharpening

Naturally, any equipment needs periodic repair and inspection. For example, sharpening band saws with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing is to know its technology. For work, a special machine is used. All work consists of several stages:

1. Initial sharpening (eliminates cracks that have appeared, restores the symmetry and profile of the teeth).

2. Cleaning the canvas from sawdust and dust.

3. Wiring (for restoring the rear and front corners).

4. Final sharpening. It eliminates all distortion and sharpens the teeth.

If you do not have experience sharpening saws, then all actions should be done as carefully as possible. The quality of the device depends on this procedure. If you are not confident in your abilities, then invite an experienced specialist.

What problems can arise during the manufacture of the device?

First of all, you will need sophisticated equipment to do some of the work. For example, not every master knows how to use welding machine. Not everyone has milling machines. Please note that the entire structure must be stable. In this case, one should not forget about the mass of the material that will be processed.

Not everyone manages to deal with the drawing. Please note that the disadvantage of such an apparatus is a fairly wide cut. In general, if you want to build such a unit yourself, stock up on the necessary tools, material and patience.

Features of the saw

Even after you can make the presented design, you should learn how to use it correctly. For example, try to comply with all necessary rules security. Please note that in some cases the blade may burst, so if you are not sure about the strength of its fastening, then do not get too close to the machine.

Observe the following rules for using the device:

- How more blank, which needs to be processed, the larger the teeth should be at the saw.

- It is better to use universal cutting tapes. This way you don't have to change the blade every time you need to process some other material.

- Before manufacturing the device, it is necessary to choose the place where it will stand. This takes into account the size of the room, the presence of electrical wiring. Naturally, this place should be well ventilated.

- Before working, try to tighten the cutting belt as much as possible. Otherwise, the machine will not only not perform its functions, but will also become hazardous to health.

— The unit must not be operated for more than two consecutive hours. After that, the tape is removed and left alone for at least a day.

- After long work machine needs to be lubricated. Find the right product for your car.

- Proper tooth setting is required.

That's all the features of the manufacture and use of a band saw. Please note that this device requires appropriate care. If you see that it does not work correctly, then it is better to wait a little with the start of its operation. Be attentive and careful.

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Do-it-yourself band saw - the drawing is not so terrible as its embodiment

With a large amount of use of lumber, sooner or later the question of own sawmill arises. Similar installations are commercially available, but their cost is excessively high.

Therefore, many home craftsmen make their own sawing machine. The following options are used:

There is a slot in the working table, from which a part of the toothed disk comes to the surface. The workpiece moves across the saw, which is stationary. From the point of view of self-production - the easiest option;

Chain (usually a chainsaw).

The chainsaw is mounted on a bracket with guides, or permanently. The operator either leads the tool along the workpiece or the workpiece moves onto the chain. Simple enough for self-production, but only suitable for rough cutting;

Tape feed.

In this design, the endless web moves in a circle, relying on two shafts (pulleys). The most difficult fixture, in terms of handicraft production. But the quality of work and versatility compensate for all costs.

Homemade band saw - how to make a sawmill

The main problem of such an installation is its dimensions. Owners of apartments with balconies need not worry. This device is not for you. Unless the desktop version is a substitute for a manual jigsaw.

If we are talking about dissolving round timber into logs, you need a spacious shed, a barn or a separate workshop. Of course, all this is located in the courtyard of a private house.

IMPORTANT! Considering the potential danger of the structure, and the dimensions of the workpieces, the room is selected taking into account the free space around the sawmill.

Drawings are best made using specialized programs, for example, AutoCAD. A general view of the structure in a three-dimensional image is shown in the illustration:

This material describes a vertical band saw.

Frame manufacturing

The most important part of the machine is the frame, or bed. It bears the entire weight of the structure and is a support for the desktop. You can make it from a steel profile or a corner, but in terms of material cost, wood is preferable.

The sawmill can be for wood or metal, depending on the selected canvas. At the same time, a properly manufactured frame will ensure reliable operation with any material.

It is undesirable to build a frame from plywood or chipboard. best material there will be a 20 mm board, from which any configuration of the bed can be assembled. The design is glued according to the principle - each next layer crosses the previous one with the direction of the fibers.

It is possible to strengthen the structure by using self-tapping screws to fasten the layers, however, glue remains the main binding material. The “C” shaped structure is rigid, and at the same time relatively elastic. That is, the frame, in addition to the bearing component, acts as a kind of damper, which allows you to smooth out the jerks of the blade for the band saw.

Top pulley block

The next critical part of the installation is the adjustable block of the upper wheel (pulley). The shaft must move vertically to provide tension to the web when it inevitably stretches during operation. The frame is made of durable wood (beech or oak).

Inside the frame is a wooden insert made of the same wood, in which the shaft for the wheel is directly attached. The shaft is machined according to the inner diameter of the wheel bearing.
The insert with the shaft must have one degree of freedom to adjust the axis inclination.

This will be required when adjusting the belt tension. The inclination is adjusted with a threaded stud and a set of nuts integrated into the wood.

Vertical movement is carried out by means of a screw mechanism with a hexagonal head. You can tighten the block with a socket wrench, or install a stationary handle for adjustment. The block frame itself moves along the guides installed in the upper part of the frame.

To do this, they are pre-milled grooves corresponding to the racks of the frame.

IMPORTANT! All nuts in the adjusting mechanism are reinforced with metal plates. Nuts can be welded on if necessary.

The shaft is machined with a flange, with which it is fixed with back side on wood insert. An example of such a flange in the illustration:

Manufacturing of wheels (pulleys)

Material for gluing wheels - plywood circles. Cut with a milling compass. Depending on the thickness of the material, there can be 2 or 3 layers. The total thickness of the wheels is about 30 mm. After gluing, it is necessary to cut a hole for the bearing.

For structural stability, it is better to fix the bearing in a coupling machined from fluoroplast or textolite. You can get by with aluminum if you find a circle of suitable diameter.
From the side of the block, a fluoroplastic washer is put on the shaft.

It is undesirable to use metal, due to accelerated wear. Outer side The bearing is fixed by a flange, in the illustration it is square in shape.

The running surface of the wheels is turned to a barrel shape. In this case, the band saw is self-centering. On finished surface the bicycle camera is put on and glued. After final assembly wheels are balanced. This can be done by changing the diameter of the holes that are drilled into the disc.

IMPORTANT! When installing the bearing, it is necessary to ensure that the shaft is perpendicular. In the event of a deviation (even a slight one), the wheel will have a beating on the plane, and the tape can come off.

A drive pulley is attached to the lower wheel. The shaft is installed rigidly, without the possibility of adjustment. It is better to adjust the tension of the drive belt by the position of the engine; for this, its foundation is equipped with longitudinal grooves at the points of attachment to the base of the machine.

The normal wheel speed for a band saw is 700-900 rpm. When calculating the diameters of the drive pulleys, it is necessary to take into account the operating speed of the electric motor.

Sawing table

The tabletop along with the base is also made of wood. The base is made in the form of a cabinet, inside which the engine with a starting device, and boxes for fixtures and spare parts will be hidden.

The table is made of thick plywood, textolite is glued on the working side. A good option might be a countertop from kitchen furniture with durable laminate on the surface.
For convenience, the tabletop can be made swivel.

In this case, it will be possible to cut at the desired angle. It makes no sense to describe the mechanism for tilting the tabletop, since each master will decide for himself what degrees of freedom he will need.

Complete with a table, it is necessary to make a parallel stop. The design is the most diverse: from a profile with two clamps to a roller guide system.

Band saw setting

To begin with, the wheels are set strictly parallel to each other. The vertical displacement of the pulleys is removed with the help of fluoroplastic washers put on the shafts. The initial start is carried out without guides, and a test cut is made without load. Properly tuned wheels rotate without jerks, the belt does not tend to come off the pulleys.

After setting, the web guide block is installed. Without it, it is impossible to cut under load. Design feature - the module consists of two parts, but both halves must be set strictly along the line of the saw blade.

Band saw blades

There are craftsmen who make their own band saw blades. You can purchase a blank in the form of a steel strip, and sharpen the band saw according to the template. Connecting the web into a closed tape is the most difficult step in manufacturing. Welding of band saws is carried out by butt contact method. There should be no overlap.

After joining, the joint is polished.
However, the modern range of canvases allows you to buy a kit for any material at an affordable price.

So don't waste your time making consumables - this is not the case when it makes sense to apply your skill.

Before buying, use the reference material on the selection of the width of the web, depending on the radius of curvature. Perhaps you will cut out curly wood products at your sawmill.

The video shows step by step how to make a homemade saw for wood from plywood and a hub from a Zhiguli. After assembly, a 6TPI wood blade 3380 × 0.65x10 mm is used to work on the saw. from machine JWBS-18 Jet PW10.3380.6. In general, the saw blade must be selected according to the tooth profile, depending on the type of wood. For example: hardwoods are sawn with a tape with a width of 80 mm or more.

How to make a band saw with your own hands

When selecting equipment for a home workshop, a band saw is rarely included in the category of a primary tool: most operations can be performed without it. I AM long time made do with what I had, but as a result, it was ripe for making a band saw. As a result of searching, I came across the website of the Canadian inventor Matthias Wandel. He suggested making a band saw almost entirely out of wood. At the same time, its characteristics were very decent, and then it is easy to make any spare part yourself.

The main features of my homemade band saw

My saw is different from the one in the developer's drawings, but I did not seek to repeat the project one-on-one. Much depends on the selected motor, saw blades and workpieces. I used the canvases that I could find. An asynchronous electric motor of suitable power was also lying around in the bins. The saw blades turned out to be a little shorter than recommended - I decided not to risk it and reduced the internal size of the frame by 10 mm.

Band saw design. Most of the details are made of wood.

Height (without pedestal), mm

Width (with table), mm

Depth (with table), mm

Table (width x depth), mm

Table tilt, degrees

Weight (without pedestal), kg

Maximum workpiece thickness, mm

Blade offset from the frame, mm

Blade length, mm

Web width, mm

Making a band saw frame

This is the main element of the machine. I used a pine inch, planed on a thickness gauge to a thickness of 19 mm. The frame is glued from several layers of boards with an overlap. Do not use chipboard, MDF, plywood or furniture board for the frame. The frame has a C-shape, where the base for the tension mechanism guide with the upper wheel is mounted on top, and two legs are attached to the bottom, connected to the base. The frame consists of six main layers and additional overlays. Diagonal elements are provided to increase rigidity. With phased gluing, it is necessary to control the perpendicularity of the elements so that the frame is flat (without twisting). I glued the frame without a base, leaving empty grooves under it. It is more convenient to glue the base after installing the lower wheel axle block. My supply of clamps was not enough, and I additionally used self-tapping screws. The surfaces of the finished frame were sanded and varnished in two layers.

1. Bonding the first layer of the frame. This operation sets the shape of the frame. 2. When gluing the next layers, the lack of clamps is compensated by self-tapping screws. 3. Guides for the movable block of the upper wheel are screwed to the finished frame. 5. Sawing grooves in the movable frame of the upper wheel block for inserts. 5. Now the triangular inserts can be glued into the grooves of the movable frame... 6. select the quarters on the sides. 7. Saw blade tensioning device. 8. In this position, the stop is visible, assembled so far without the rotation handle. Three adjusting screws of the adjusting block oak plates act as a spring. top wheel. 9. Gluing the wheel from three plywood circles. 10. Flanges (part with bearings) with linings are fitted to the wheel blanks and marked. 11. The engine pulley sharpened directly on the engine itself.

Top wheel mounting block

The next stage is the assembly and installation of the movable upper wheel mounting block. It must move in the vertical direction and provide tension to the saw blade. To do this, I fixed an oak profile on the prepared "horns" of the frame, which forms a guide groove. The block is a rectangular frame with a movable upper wheel shaft holder inserted into it. The frame was made from oak wood. For amplification corner connections used additional inserts. Having glued the frame, sawed grooves in the corners. Then I cut out triangular inserts and glued them into the grooves. In conclusion, on the sides of the frame I chose quarters for guides in the main frame. The frame should move in the grooves without tangible backlash. At the top of the frame, I installed a long bolt to move it and adjust the tension of the saw blade. On the holder (bar with a hole and selected quarters on opposite sides) of the wheel shaft, a screw is installed at the top to adjust the wheel tilt. The holder is attached to the frame with two self-tapping screws, and due to the backlash, its mobility for adjustment is achieved. A metal lining is installed under the screw. The shaft in the holder after setting the saw is fixed with a self-tapping screw. The springing effect when the web is tensioned is created by three oak plates.

Saw wheel manufacturing

The saw wheels have a diameter of 400 mm. They just need to be made from plywood or MDF. My wheels are 29mm thick. I glued them from three plywood circles. The most critical area here is the central part of the wheels. The blanks were cut using a milling machine. In the center of the circle, I drilled a hole 0 6 mm and installed the center of the milling compass in it. Then this hole was used for combining blanks and gluing. Cut circles with an allowance of 10 mm for finishing. Shafts 0 25 mm (for purchased bearings) were made for me by a turner. They have a limiter on one side, and an M12 internal thread on the other. For the manufacture of flanges used plywood. Before drilling holes in them for the bearing, I drilled a hole of 0 6 mm in the center and, aligning it with the center of the wheel, drilled four holes for the dowels. The position of the flange on the wheel marked. The flange consists of two parts. The 15 mm thick outer part holds the bearing, while the 10 mm thick inner part forms a gap between the wheel and the bearing. The diameter of the hole in the wheel should be slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. The most important operation is drilling a hole with a diameter of 52 mm for the bearing in the outer part of the flange. Especially for this I bought hole saw 0 52 mm and after checking it was polished along the outer diameter by 0.3 mm. The bearings were then pressed in with a mallet. Before gluing the flanges to the wheel, I cut out the lower wheel shaft holder - a wooden block with a hole for the shaft, which is attached to the bottom of the frame. Drilling a hole directly in the frame is undesirable: it is likely that the drill will lead away. The holder is easier to turn to the desired angle for correction. I drilled four technological holes in the wheels so that clamps could be threaded through them when gluing. Immediately after gluing the wheel put it on the shaft. Thanks to the pre-centering of the flanges and drilled holes under the dowels, one of my assembled wheels had practically no runout, but the second had an uncritical “eight” up to 3 mm. To fit the wheel to the size of the diameter and to form the profile, it was necessary to connect the wheel to the engine. At the first stage, I used a temporary plywood pulley - I screwed it with screws to the wheel. I machined the pulley for the engine using the engine itself, and then connected the engine and the temporary wheel pulley with a belt. Having fixed the wheel, I screwed a wooden block as a stop and turned the wheel to 0 400 mm with the help of turning tools. It is difficult to control the diameter of the wheel on the shaft, so I measured the circumference. It is equal to 1256 mm. The machined edge of the wheel was barrel-shaped. Thanks to this, the tape does not slip off the wheel, but, on the contrary, self-centers on it. The bevel angle should be 5 degrees on each side.

12. When all the details were ready, I glued the flanges to the wheel. 13. I used the lower shaft mounting block as a holder. 14. I turned the wheel to the desired diameter, giving the edge a barrel shape. The bevel in each direction is approximately 5 degrees. 15. After pre-assembly of the wheel. 16. Guide complete with thrust bearing blocks. 17. A guide with an upper support bearing has been installed, but so far without “crackers”. Rubber chambers are stretched over the wheels (after the final assembly they need to be glued). 18. The desktop support is equipped with one-plane adjustment. tilt mechanism

Having made both wheels, I installed a regular drive pulley on one of them (read about similar decision here). Its thickness and shape was adjusted to the belt used, and the diameter was calculated so that the speed of the saw blade was approximately 800 m / min. Now all that was left was to balance the wheels. To do this, I took bearings with an external 0 22 mm. They were then used as support for the saw blade. Having fixed the temporary axis horizontally and putting bearings on it, he set the wheel so that it rotated easily, and its heaviest part fell down. With a Forstner drill, I made small indentations in the lower zone of the wheel from the back. As a result of such manipulations, I made sure that the wheel stops rotating in any position. This completes the balancing act. Wheels varnished in two layers.

Then I pulled cut chambers from 16″ wheels of a children's bike onto the wheels. The rubber protects the wheel surfaces from being damaged by the belt, reduces noise and prevents slippage. Balancing, however, had to be repeated.

Mounting wheels on the band saw frame

Installed the top wheel first. I put PTFE washers on the shaft. The wheel was fastened with a bolt with a thick washer, screwing it into the end of the shaft. Adjusting bolt set the upper wheel parallel to the frame. I fixed the lower wheel block on the frame with clamps and hung the lower wheel. With the help of a ruler and fluoroplastic washers, I set the wheels in one plane. By shifting the lower block, I ensured that the line connecting the centers of the shafts was parallel to the vertical rack of the frame. This operation was performed with a regular saw blade installed. After setting, the lower shaft mounting block is fixed. After checking the rotation of the saw manually, I decided on a test run. Being careful, I turned on the machine. The tests were successful. The tape moved in the middle of the wheels, no vibration and suspicious noises. Replacing the canvas with the narrowest one, I conducted a second test. It was possible to glue the base under the engine and attach it to the frame.
21. A work table with a zero clearance plate and a saw tension knob were installed. The machine is ready for testing. 22.The desktop can be tilted to the desired angle. The support screw for adjusting the position of the desktop is visible. 23.Strong frame of mobile cabinet-stand.24.Protective engine screen.

Adjusting the saw blade guides

The smooth end of the saw blade rests against the outer ring of the bearing, and “crackers” hold it from the sides. At first I made "crackers" from PTFE, but they quickly wore out. Therefore (on the advice of the author) I replaced them with wooden ones. As a protective casing, I used a rectangular duralumin pipe, cutting it circular saw. The casing was screwed to the tire with self-tapping screws. The tire must be set with high precision, since with a length of 300 mm, even a slight misalignment in relation to the saw blade will be noticeable. To mount the tire in the frame, I chose a groove. The markup was carried out on a stretched wide canvas. Then he specified the marking of the groove according to the size of the guide rail. But no matter how hard I tried, when choosing a groove, I made a mistake of 0.3 mm, which led to an error at the bottom point of almost 4 mm. Therefore, I cut out a corner from the rest of the duralumin pipe, expanded the groove in the frame to its thickness, and to correct the position I glued several pieces of self-adhesive paper 0.1 mm thick. Having achieved the desired result, fixed the corner with self-tapping screws. The latch has two holes. One main one is for the maximum tire pressure area, the second is used only with very thick workpieces in order to maximize the tire.

Making a desktop for a band saw with your own hands

First, I made a support with a table tilt mechanism. Made it from oak wood. It is attached to the lower block of thrust bearings. I attached a chipboard lining to the rotary mechanism of the table to increase the rigidity of the table. On the table itself, I put a piece of chipboard worktop. It is quite thick and durable, and its surface is smooth and slippery. Edges sheathed with beech slats. In the working area in the table, I sawed out a rectangular hole, and then milled a notch for an MDF insert. I installed the insert with the saw turned on: I put the insert into the grooves and pushed it all the way, while sawing it to the desired length. When the table is rotated at an angle, I either remove the insert altogether, or make a new one at a specific angle. I made a knob on the nut of the web tension mechanism. I set the tension force by eye - it is almost impossible to tear the canvas. To make it more convenient to set the table perpendicular to the canvas, I made an additional stop for the table. A self-tapping screw screwed into the stop allows you to adjust the position of the table. And to prevent sawdust from sticking to the wheels, I installed a cut-off toothbrush on the lower wheel.

Making a cabinet for a saw

I chose the dimensions of the cabinet based on the dimensions of the base of the saw, and adjusted the height so that the table was at a level of 1,050 mm from the floor - this is just right for me. The curbstone was made from scraps of a tongue-and-groove floorboard 35 mm thick. The frame of the pedestal was assembled on dowels. Reinforced the corners from the inside with metal corners. Side inserts - from laminated chipboard. The back wall is made of MDF. In general, everything from scraps. The top drawer of the cabinet serves to collect sawdust. The curbstone is established on wheels with a possibility of their fixing.

25. The right wall of the lower wheel housing is beveled at the top to make it easier to change saw blades. 26. The rear wall of the lower wheel guard is tilted and guides the sawdust into the box. 27.The parallel stop is fixed on the desktop. Protection installation. 28. This is how the protection of moving parts looks like. Saw start button and backlight switch installed.

Protective covers and elements of the saw body are at the same time guides for removing sawdust. All working elements of the saw are protected by screens. As a material for casings and screens, I used MDF 8 mm thick and pine boards.

Wiring

In addition to the start button, I immediately decided to install a backlight working area. To do this, I used a lamp with a flexible bracket, and placed its switch next to the start button. I passed the wires through the frame and fixed it at the back.

Parallel stop

The band saw could already be used, but there was a shortage parallel stop. The mechanism for fixing the stop was built on the basis of an eccentric. Due to the rounded front edge of the table, a movable pusher with a semicircular leading edge had to be cut out additionally. The stop tire was made of larch. On the opposite side of the tire, I attached a grip that rests against the edge of the table. It took me almost two months to make the saw. True, I did not work on it every day. The project turned out to be very exciting. Satisfied with the performance of the machine. Now I can’t even imagine how I used to do without a band saw. As a test for the saw, I made several caskets.

Do-it-yourself band saw for wood - all photos

©Sergey Golovkov, Novocherkassk

Below are other entries on the topic "How to do it yourself - to the householder!"

Alexander Kupriyanov, Bryansk
2017-04-07 (17:26) #

Do-it-yourself saw with a square

When you need to cut a board or a rail strictly at a right angle, but there is no square at hand, I use a hacksaw with a small addition.

I riveted two wooden blocks of suitable shape to the canvas at the very handle, as shown in the figure. To apply the markup, I apply the handle to the edge of the workpiece and with a pencil (you can use a nail) draw a line along the canvas along the part, then cut off the necessary part according to the mark.

good machine .. well done master .. and about chipboard - I have a band saw made with wheels made of chipboard 15 mm thick ... from a door from an old chiffoner that lay in a barn for 20 years .. wheels - 25 cm in diameter .. saw blade 6.3 mm long 180 cm.. cutting height = 200 mm.. my machine has been standing on the street for three years. covered with a cellophane bag .. in mins 20 I saw firewood calmly .. who wants to make a band saw for wood - make sure .. saving on electricity - I have a 550 watt engine .. the speed of the engine is 900 rpm .. I reduced it by three .. and it makes noise not loud .. the only advice is to make a frame out of plywood - less vibration .. steel still vibrates a little .. cast iron does not vibrate, but there are no cast iron corners

Well done. Where can you get drawings?

Alexander
2015-07-28 (20:41) #

Well done! The first site where it is most fully described how to make a saw (the sizes are there and everything else), the rest are just panache, but window dressing, they say, this is how I can or reprints of each other. From chipboard and MDF, it’s clear why you can’t do it, but with plywood, what’s wrong? To be honest, I'm not good at woodworking. And we should also add here about the engine (revs, power pulleys under the belt). And that's great, thank you so much!

A cheaper option is to develop a band saw for wood with your own hands, but for this you will need to have drawings, a durable metal blade, cutting material, and some other details.

The main part of such a home sawmill is a saw and a motor that will set it in motion. The best option is an engine with a power of 10 kW: in this case, it will be possible to cut any logs into boards without any problems using a do-it-yourself machine.

What is needed for self-manufacturing of the machine?

some details of old cars;
rolled sectional type;
carrying out locksmith and turning works;
minor welding work.

During the assembly of such a band machine for wood, you can use old pulleys from any agricultural machinery, the optimal diameter of which is about 30 cm. will fit on smaller pipes, leaving a slight gap of about 0.5 mm.

Making a base and a device for fixing logs

Perpendicular to these corners, profile pipes with dimensions of 2.5 × 2.5 mm are welded, between them there is a pipe with a diameter of half an inch, on which claws are fixed, which are fasteners for logs.

How to properly install pulleys

The right pulley is used as a slave, so it is necessary to attach a spring to it, which automatically tensions it during operation. The left pulley, therefore, is the leading one, therefore it is necessary to fix it rigidly when assembling the tape machine with your own hands. When changing the size of the saw, the drive pulley must be shifted.

How to make the right roller knot

Frame and accessories

To make the machine more convenient to use, you can make an additional device for it with your own hands in which chips will be collected. In the simplest case, this is an ordinary wooden or plywood box, you can also use something else like that.

In the process of using a home-made machine, it is necessary to constantly ensure that its saw always remains sharp, and also adhere to safety regulations.

Band saw unit for processing wooden products is one of the main devices for high-quality woodworking on an industrial scale. In the conditions of work at home, it can be easily replaced with a simple electric jigsaw, but high expectations can be placed on this unit in terms of production.

Modern band saws for wood are easy to make with your own hands, using low labor intensity, as well as the material component when equipping the equipment. This unit allows you to produce no less products, as it would be in the case of acquiring an expensive purchased mechanism, especially since it is not inferior in its characteristics in any case.

Areas of use

Using this type of band saw unit, you can make cuts with your own hands, while the accuracy remains on top even with minimal labor. Therefore, such machines are often referred to as jigsaw type. The basic principle of operation of such units was laid down more than a hundred years ago, and even at the moment such machines do not lose their relevance in terms of processing wooden products.

Naturally, today's models of this mechanism are an order of magnitude or two superior to their counterparts from past generations in most technical indicators. But the basic components and the principle of operation have not changed much. First of all, the saw for the annular section has not undergone major changes, which is capable of performing cuts both for real and at an angle.

A used wood band saw is able to perform both a high-quality cut in a cut and do simple work on processing wooden products on a table. This feature of this mechanism gives a unique opportunity to perform carpentry work at specialized factories for the production of furniture, as well as most industrial wood processing complexes.

Modern belt processing machines are extremely common in combination with many well-known building materials. Basically, work is done on wood with your own hands, as well as on plastic and complex foam materials.

In the manufacture of furniture, such machines are used primarily for cutting long plank openings, as well as for sawing complex elements on wood. But the frequent use of tape machines is also the work on the processing and cutting of metal structures. Work with materials such as:

Cast iron.
Complex non-ferrous metals.
ferrous alloys.
Alloys from durable metal materials primarily made of stainless steel.

The main advantages of a band saw machine for wood, which is used to a lesser extent with the use of other devices of this type:

The ability to make high-quality cutting of the workpiece thickness and penetration depth, which can be at least 400-500 mm.
The ability to perform sawing areas exclusively in difficult materials, which can be less involved in other similar machine mechanisms.
Cutting materials in the form of a curved trapezoid with a conical base.
When working on a machine for band saw units, there is a minimum of waste, such as dust and chips, because the blank cut is always smooth and clean.
The band saw machine is very compact, it takes up a minimum of space, with a low weight, so it can be easily installed with minimal dimensions and without the need for additional working tools.
During the operation of the saw, the action of its noise reaches the operator's eardrums to a lesser extent and thus creates less discomfort.
An apparatus of this class practically does not disturb others who live in the immediate vicinity of a working mechanism.
The simple, almost elementary, design of the unit makes it possible to create an apparatus for a band saw mechanism using its own forces.

Technical capabilities

Every practical owner of such a mechanism should, before purchasing a machine, first familiarize himself with it. technical features, as well as with the principles of functioning when performing the necessary work. Conventionally, all units for the implementation of band saw work are divided into several types, which can be divided into the following main categories:

The size and indicative data of manufactured products for a certain period of time.
The width of the belt row on the processed unit.
The angle at which the mechanism is rotated.
The number of speed modes for running the material.

The main indicator that determines the difference between a machine designed for industrial scale and for single work at home.

If the thickness of the tape does not exceed 13-14 mm, then it is best to use it in household work with a small volume of products, but in the case when it is necessary to make a really large volume of products on an industrial scale, then thicker tapes are used, as a rule, not less than 20 mm to prevent the release of low-quality products.

The main arrangement of the saw band on the device: horizontal and vertical. Thus, all machines of this type have only two standard classifications: horizontal machines and vertical ones.

A special console is installed on the vertical unit, which makes it possible to control the workflow, based on special working parts. The device operator is able to fully control his console, while simultaneously monitoring the production process.

On small-sized mechanisms, only the saw surface is fixed in a special way, while there is the possibility of free movement of the main workpiece for the unit. Horizontal placement is characteristic primarily of machines with a horizontal tape. Their main purpose is to cut hard wood.

It is these belt machines that are often used for professional cultivation of heavy metal plates and high-quality production of products.

Significant differences in the form of feeding the workpiece to a special working body are also not ruled out. In mass production of products, complex automatic machines are common. They are mass produced. Feeding elements is possible using special vice holders, as well as an electric motor. The motor can also be made at home.

Homemade semi-automatic feeders are used primarily in blank production. They differ from other types of machines in that they can be fed using manual feed, and their use is mainly due to home and household production.

The best example for a band saw can be called a Belarusian-made device under the number MP8-1558-007. The sawmill of this mechanism is also of Belarusian origin. With its help, it is possible to qualitatively process many complex parts with a width of at least 90-300 mm, with a length of 1100-8100 mm.

The mechanism for processing wood and metal under the number MP8-1558-007 has a standard power of not more than 8 kW, and the voltage for the operation of the machine does not exceed 380 V. The blade rotates at a frequency of at least 32 m / s.

Features of the structural assembly of the unit

Before you purchase and even more so make a mechanism with your own hands, you must first study specifications, which will allow you to take a comprehensive look at the device and make an informed decision about its staffing.

The main components of a standard machine are as follows:

sawing mechanism;
electric motor;
work platform;
bed for standard processing;
elements for the guiding moment;
shutters for the enclosing surface.

In the event of an incident, complex brake mechanisms are activated, the pads of which instantly slow down the operation of the saw. With a potential rupture of the tape surface, the clamps are set in motion, which slow down this process and stop the rupture of the template. It does not hurt to install such an element as a guide ruler to ensure the adjustment of the layer width.

On what principle does a home-made machine that was in use work?

First of all, it is necessary to fix it qualitatively, while the probability of vibration of the desktop must be reduced to zero. This is extremely important for the stable retention of production volumes at the proper level.
The workpiece is cut along the guide line, when stopped by a movable stop. Special devices are able to feed the product to the required length.
Machines of this type are capable of cutting threads at a cutting angle of at least 45 degrees.
Automatic feeding is carried out by a special roller bracket. It is on it that the workpiece of the required size is laid.
By means of rollers, it becomes extremely easy and simple to control the entire process of cutting the product, while the electrical unit itself does not represent a source of potential danger, because special attention is paid to this moment under factory assembly conditions.

Video: do-it-yourself band saw.

How to make a band saw mechanism with your own hands?

To make a vertical band saw at home, it is enough to have only a basic idea of \u200b\u200bhow the assembly process takes place.

First of all, they make all the necessary sketches of the unit and all its operating key parts.
After that, according to the drawings, the mill is welded for the desktop. As a rule, the dimensions of the table are as follows: 400 by 700 mm.
A tabletop is installed as a frame cover. Most often it is made from plywood flooring with a penetration depth of 20 mm.
By welding the transverse profile to the corner, a carrier bar is installed.
The upper and lower pulley becomes the main deck to provide a quality working surface based on sheet rubber.
Using a special resin, a dural alloy bushing is installed, inside which an opening for the bearing is first machined.
An engine is placed inside the desktop surface, which is the drive for the operation of the machine. A drive pulley is attached to the engine.
To reduce the vibration of the installation, a damper is installed, made by hand from textolite material.
When overheating, the machine must be given a “drink” from time to time.

There are many different tools for sawing workpieces - these are hand saws, cut-off saws, electric jigsaws, etc. But a band saw occupies a special place among them. This article will focus on the manufacture of a homemade band saw.

Introduction

Everything should be at hand in the workshop, and the abundance of tools makes the master truly free to choose the methods and techniques of work. One of the most basic operations in any workshop is sawing workpieces. Moreover, sawing is different - somewhere you need to saw off quickly and the quality of the cut is not important, somewhere you need a deaf saw and can handle it or with a special one, somewhere you need an exceptionally even saw, and so on.

A band saw for wood, made by hand, deserves a place of honor in the workshop. Not everyone has it, however, the convenience of its use is undeniable. Its advantages include the following features:

High sawing quality, as there is no return movement of the cutting blade.
High sawing speed as the cutting band moves at high speed.
High maneuverability when sawing due to the small thickness of the cutting blade.
High versatility and flexibility in tool use.
High work safety.

However, the band saw also has disadvantages. Let's list them:

This stationary saw, respectively, there is no possibility of its mobile movement.
Limited sawing area due to design features.
Large dimensions.

Band saw manufacturing

Preparation for work

Getting started, you need to prepare all the tools and materials, as well as a place where it will be comfortable and safe to make a homemade band saw.

Tools:

Basic tool	Description operation	Alternative Tool
	Performance longitudinal cut blanks	Band saw with the ability to cut parts over half a meter long. Electric jigsaw. The disadvantage of a jigsaw is the poor quality of the saw.
	Sawing a niche, a groove and an upper valve. Manufacturing of pulleys.	Band-saw. Manual jigsaw. High labor intensity of the process.
Clamps	Fixation of workpieces during gluing, as well as during other operations	There are no worthy alternatives, but you can adapt and try using a carpenter's vise or some heavy object as a press.
Drilling machine (+ )	Hole drilling	Manual electric drill. Worse, it does not guarantee the correct geometry of the holes. The process of drilling with a drill is more laborious.
	Surface grinding of workpieces and edges	Hand-held electric drill with grinding attachments. Difficulties may arise when grinding at an angle of 90 degrees. . The problems are the same as with a hand-held electric drill. And also the limited power of the tool is added.

Materials, accessories, fasteners

15 mm thick;
A block of solid wood;
Bolts for horizontal and vertical adjustment;
PVA glue for carpentry;
Lamb for adjustment bolts;
Insulating tape;
Bearings for the upper axle;
Two bearings for the drive axle;
two shafts;
cutting blade;
Two bushings with internal thread;
Self-tapping screws, nuts, washers, futorka, studs;
Ribbons or nozzles for or.

Main structural elements

The band saw drawing will include the following components:

Base;
Tape tension mechanism;
Pulleys;
Saw blade (cutting band).

Manufacturing of structural elements

The manufacturing instructions will be broken down into 5 points and include steps for making a homemade bandsaw. The article provides photo and video materials that will help you not to make mistakes in production.

Base

Since the band saw must be strong, it is necessary to prepare at least 15 mm thick. We cut four blanks 550 mm long and 23 mm wide.

Next, we make markings according to a previously created stencil, or you can make markings directly on the workpiece. The two plates located inside should have a niche for an adjustable mechanism. For external parts, it is necessary to draw a through groove. Value vertical adjustment will depend on the size of this groove. Next, you need to mark the through hole for the drive lower shaft. In addition, we need a surface for a saw table, the dimensions of which along the width of the table will not exceed 150 mm. In all blanks, it is necessary to cut a square between the circles in height equal to 15-20 cm, and not exceeding 15 cm in width.

Using the necessary parts, as well as the groove for adjusting the upper pulley, then drill a hole for the lower drive shaft.

Next, you need to assemble the future base. For assembly, PVA glue or any other wood glue is used. We apply it in an even layer on all surfaces to be glued, then apply the parts to each other, avoiding inaccuracies. Fixation of products must be carried out with clamps, since for high-quality gluing, a snug fit of the workpieces is necessary. Until the glue dries completely, it is necessary to withstand a day.

We install bearings for the lower drive shaft.

Saw blade (tape) tensioning mechanism

To make a band saw tension mechanism, you need to make a bar, the dimensions of which will correspond to a niche in the saw body. At the end of the bar, a hole is drilled for the stud and futorka. Bearing slots are cut out on both sides.

We insert the hairpin and fix it in the bar. It must be held firmly in the hole. To increase the strength of the fastening, before inserting the stud, apply PVA glue to its surface, and you also need to additionally fix the stud with a self-tapping screw or screw.

It is necessary to install a handle on the hairpin, the rotation of which will allow you to change the depth of immersion of the bar into the base, thereby changing the distance between the pulleys - this is how the tape is tensioned.

Pulleys

While the base glue dries, we proceed to the manufacture of moving elements, namely pulleys. The whole process of their manufacture is reflected in the above photos.

On a sheet 15 mm thick, it is necessary to mark the contours - circles with a diameter of 150 mm.
Cut blanks along the outlined contours and drill a hole in the center of the circle.

Even the most accurate and accurate sawing will not give the workpiece perfectly regular shapes, so it is necessary to grind the ends. To do this, it will be used with a table at 90 degrees in relation to the processed plane. If you do not have the right tool, it is possible to grind the face with a manual grinder or a home-made fixture for with a grinding nozzle. The workpiece is fixed with a bolt or self-tapping screw to some base. Thus, when it is fed to the grinding wheel and rotated around the axis, a perfectly even circle is obtained.

After processing the pulley on a grinder, you need to wrap its ends with insulating tape in several layers, and you can also use rubber from bicycle chambers.

The saw table will be 15 cm wide. It will be installed on a special end face of the machine base between the pulleys. In the table, you need to make a cut for the free movement of the saw blade. The dimensions of the manufactured table depend on the needs and preferences of the master. You can make a small table that only protrudes slightly from the machine and save space, or make the top surface area larger for ease of operation. As always, in life you need to choose the "golden mean", so the final decision is up to the master.

Saw blade (cutting band)

It is best not to make a cutting blade yourself, but to buy a ready-made one. In stores, you can find a wide variety of options that differ in type, size, type of steel used, hardening of the material, shape of the teeth, their wiring, etc.

Below is a table with some parameters of saw blades.

International marking	Decryption	Body hardness	Teeth hardness	Application feature
constant hardness	with the same hardness over the entire area	45 - 48 units HRc	45-48 units HRc	This type is used on pulleys of small diameter.
Flexback—Hard Edge	with high teeth hardness, but flexible body	30-33 units HRc	63-65 units HRc	The upper part of the tooth is hardened, while the rest of the product is flexible. Able to carry a large flow, in comparison with the previous type.
hard back	hardened over the entire area of the canvas	48-53 units HRc	63-68 units HRc	The saw blade production technology is the most modern and is used in industry. Able to perform more work, but the price is much higher. The canvas is used in professional machines.

In addition, band saws differ in tooth size:

with a small tooth
with middle tooth
with large teeth

The greater the hardness of the tape, the greater the resistance to blunting it has. Rigid blade allows you to cut material at high feed rates without reducing performance characteristics work.

In this case, for our band saw, the best option was to choose a 1065 mm long carbon steel blade marked with Constant Hardness.

Assembly

Base processing. After the glue has completely dried, you need to remove the clamps and process the gluing site, ends and other surfaces.
Installation of the saw blade tension mechanism. It is installed in the mounting groove, and a thrust element must be placed on top. During operation, the mechanism must be firmly fixed.

Pulley installation. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the pulleys to be installed must be parallel to each other and easily rotate around their axis, while the axis must be absolutely static. Strong runout of the wheels is not allowed, as this can lead to the saw blade slipping off the pulley and injuring the master. The lower drive shaft must pass through the housing and have a sufficient end on the reverse side so that it can be clamped into the drill chuck. The upper pulley is installed in the saw blade tension mechanism.

Installing the cutting blade. The saw blade must be installed over the ends of the pulleys. First, it should be freely put on this structure, and by rotating the adjustment knob, the bar with the axis of the upper pulley moves up, thus increasing the distance between the centers of the pulleys. In this case, the tension of the tape occurs. After tightening, it is necessary to tighten the screw a of the nut to securely fix the tension mechanism.

Setting up the saw table. The saw table is located on the horizontal surface of the base, as shown in the photo. Its area should be sufficient for a comfortable process of sawing the workpiece. It should be noted that the perpendicularity of the table to the saw blade is very important, and in two dimensions - longitudinal and transverse. The table is fastened with self-tapping screws. Although there is an option to “plant” it on glue, and install dowels for strength.
Power tool installation. At the very last stage, you need to make this design come to life. To do this, you need to clamp the shank of the drive shaft of the lower pulley into the drill chuck. Alternatively, you can use a puncher or. But the power will be clearly insufficient, so still a drill or a hammer drill.

Setup and adjustment. Before starting work, turn on the band saw at idle. Make sure that the tape does not slip and runs smoothly. Check its tension and the fixation of the saw blade tension mechanism.

Band saw rules

A large volume of processed materials requires the installation of a blade with large teeth on the machine. The best option is to use universal band saws.

at big size the workpiece to be processed should be installed on a band saw with large teeth; it is better to use cutting tapes of a universal type. So there will be no need to change the blade when processing various materials;
Decide on the installation location of the machine and fix it securely on a static surface avoiding vibrations during operation. The room in which the band saw will be installed must be well ventilated.
After finishing work, remove the saw band and, accordingly, tighten it only before work. This will extend the useful life of the blade.
Every two hours of operation, turn off the band saw and allow the engine to this example drill, relax, and at the same time check for faults. Compliance with this rule will protect the worker from injury, and the tool from overheating.
Check the setting of the cutting teeth from time to time.

Conclusion

With proper assembly and use, the band saw has a long service life. You should only sharpen the tape from time to time and monitor the condition of the main parts.

Video

Video for this review: