DIY Arduino laser engraver. DIY laser engraver: materials, assembly, software installation How to make a manual laser engraver with your own hands
In the previous article, I described the experience of assembling and setting up an engraver from a Chinese set. Having worked with the apparatus, I realized that it would not be superfluous in my laboratory. The task is set, I will solve it.
There are two solutions on the horizon - ordering a kit in China and developing our own design.
CONSTRUCTION DISADVANTAGES WITH ALIEXPRESS
As I wrote in the previous article, the set turned out to be quite workable. The practice of working with the machine revealed the following design flaws:
- Poorly designed carriage design. In the video in the previous article, this is clearly visible.
- The rollers of the movable units are fixed on the panels with M5 screws and are connected to the panel on one side only. In this case, no matter how you tighten the screws, there remains a backlash.
PLASTIC PARTS
Since the frame made of the machine profile is quite worthy, it was possible to eliminate the identified shortcomings by recycling the plastic parts.
I described the laser holder well enough in. I also added an additional detail to the structure, connecting all four rollers on the right and left panels. The detail made it possible to eliminate backlash when moving the panels.
All parts have fairly simple shapes and do not require support or other difficulties in printing.
To order a set plastic parts you need to go to the online store:
Models of plastic parts for printing are available:
DEMONSTRATION OF WORK
The work of the engraver and his appearance can be appreciated in the following video.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE ENGRAVER
The frame of the engraver is built on a machine aluminum profile 20x40. The parts carrying the moving parts of the engraver are made on a 3D printer. Moving parts move on standard rollers. The carriage carrying the laser module allows you to adjust the height of the laser above the worktable, which allows you to focus the power of the laser beam in a sufficiently wide range.
The assembly of the structure is shown in 3D PDF format.
ASSEMBLY
The construction is quite simple. For this reason, a lot of time and pain in the assembly will not go away if the recommended assembly sequence is followed.
STEP 1. FRAME
As described above, the frame is constructed from a 20x40 structural profile. Internal corners are used to twist the profile together.
On longer parts, a thread is cut in the central holes of the ends for mounting the legs and side panels (on the middle length).
The frame is twisted at the corners, with short parts inward. At this stage, do not fully tighten the screws - it is better to do this after installing the legs.
The legs are screwed at four points. This is done so that the frame is assembled without possible distortions.
First you need to secure all four legs, again not fully tightening the fasteners.
Now you need to find the most flat surface! Place all the details in such a way that the frame "stands" tightly, without playing on the surface.
We stretch all the fasteners, starting from the inner corners and controlling possible distortions with a square.
STEP 2. RIGHT PANEL
Before assembling the right panel, a flexible coupling must be installed on the motor shaft.
Then you need to screw the stepper motor through the plastic spacer.
The position of the cable outlet and the spacer are clearly visible in the figure below.
STEP 3. LEFT PANEL
To assemble the left panel, you only need to press the bearing into the hole.
I tried to exclude the gluing operation. To do this, "let a wave" over the surface of the hole to install the bearing. For this reason, it is necessary to press the bearing down with force.
STEP 4. MOUNTING THE LEFT PANEL
Then install the assembly on the profile.
And fasten the lower rollers. The figure clearly shows that the fastening holes of the screws for fastening the rollers have a stroke of several millimeters. This is done so that the upper and lower rollers can be well tightened on the profile, eliminating backlash. The only thing is that you need to act carefully and not overtighten. In this case, the stepper motor will need excessive force to move the panels.
STEP 5. MOUNTING THE RIGHT PANEL
The following parts are required for installation.
You will need to install the top rollers first.
Then install the assembly on the profile and install the lower rollers. Further installation is identical to that of the left panel.
After tightening the screws, you will need to check the movement of the panel. It should move easily enough and there should be no backlash.
STEP 6. MOUNTING THE GUIDE CARRIER
Both panels are used to transmit movement along the Y-axis in this design. In order not to use 2 stepper motors, the torque is transmitted to the left panel through a shaft with a diameter of 5mm. After preparing the details, we proceed.
First, the connecting shaft is installed and clamped with the flexible coupling set screws.
During installation, it is necessary to check that the pulleys are not forgotten. Fasten them firmly into this moment not necessary. Adjustment is required when tightening the belts.
STEP 7. CARRIAGE
The assembly of the carriage is discussed in detail in the previous article ...
The assembly is not difficult.
STEP 8. MOUNTING THE CARRIER ON THE RAIL
First you need to collect all the necessary parts.
All mounting operations are identical to the panel mounting operations.
STEP 9. MOUNTING THE BELTS
The belts are tightened with screws for the profile nuts. You will need to cut off 3 belts in place and prepare the fasteners.
To begin with, the edge of the belt is located in the niche of the profile with the tooth down. After that, the nut is installed. It will take some effort to install the nut.
When tensioning the belt, you will need to set the position of the pulley. The pulley is positioned so that during the entire course the belt rub against the side edges of the pulley as little as possible.
To install the belt of the guide carriage, it is better to raise it as shown in the figure below, since it is still better to install the nuts in the niche from the end.
After that, the guide is lowered to its original place.
Before tightening the second "tail" of the belt, make sure the belt is tight enough.
This completes the assembly of the mechanics.
CONTROLLER
I plan to prepare a description of the controllers for controlling the engraver in a separate article. Follow the publications!
ASSEMBLY KIT AND TURNKEY LASER ENGRAVER
Since December 2017, I have been accepting orders for a complete set for assembly and assembled, customized and completely ready-to-use laser engraver described in the article. Information is available in the online store.
If the article helped you and there is a desire to support new projects, link for support:
Lasers have come into our everyday life a long time ago. Guides use light pointers, beam-assisted builders set levels. The vocation of the laser - to heat up substances (up to thermal destruction) - is used in cutting and decorating. One of the applications- laser engraving. On different materials subtle patterns can be obtained with virtually no difficulty limits.
A rich selection of engraving machines, mainly made in China, is presented in the implementation. The equipment is not very expensive, however, purchasing it simply for the purpose of entertainment is impractical. Much more fun to do homemade laser engraver with my own hands.
How to make an engraver from a printer?
How to make an engraver with your own hands? Making a CNC engraver from an old printer is not difficult at all. It's like an Arduino constructor. Detailed instructions will undoubtedly help you to orient yourself in everything.
However, first it is necessary prepare all the required components for the CNC:
- 3 studs from the hardware shopping center;
- duralumin U-profile;
- 2 metal bearings;
- a piece of plexiglass;
- regular size and large metal nuts;
- 3 stepper motors, can be taken from an old printer.
It is also necessary to have such devices at hand:
- saw;
- screws;
- screwdrivers and other devices.
Only one thing that will need to be done outside the home is to weld the base for the CNC machine, although it is also allowed to make it bolted.
Machine production stages
The production of the engraver begins with the fastening of the lead screw and the profile. The final stage is the use of a sled.
Progress:
The engraving machine in this modification, developed by our own hands, can be an ordinary home dremel. Attach your engraver allowed with plexiglass.
So the do-it-yourself desktop laser engraver is ready. Now all that remains is to connect it using the limit switches. This homemade device makes it possible to carry out in living conditions stone carving, however, does not provide an opportunity to separate it.
How to assemble a laser engraving machine using a diode from an old DVD drive?
Your laser can be produced from a DVD drive. An optical beam that is made with your own hands is unlikely to cope with iron or wood.
However, it will be completely possible for them to share:
- paper;
- a small sheet of plastic;
- plastic wrap;
- other simple and delicate items.
In addition to the above alternatives, a DIY laser from a DVD drive is allowed to come up with a lot of all sorts of tasks. In particular, its potential is well revealed in the creative field.
If no thread is needed, with a laser from a DVD drive, you can:
- burn patterns or pictures on wood surfaces;
- illuminate various objects, distant at a great distance;
- use as a decoration at home;
- make straight lines (since the beam is clearly visible), which will be especially useful when building and repairing.
What is needed to get the job done?
To make a beam, you need certain elements. They are always sold in ordinary shopping centers electronics, therefore, no extra effort to apply.
Thus, for the purpose of production, you will need:
Disassembly of the drive must be carried out with special care. Inattentive handling can not only damage the mechanism, but also damage your own eyes. The problem is that the beam has the ability to blind at some time and negatively reflect in visual acuity.
Now a homemade fixture should ensure electric shock... The power supply of a conventional diode must be 3V, and the consumption must be up to 400 mA. These values may vary depending on the write speed to the drive. The laser does not require huge performance. So, for a drive with a write speed of 16X, 200 mA is enough. It is allowed to increase this value as much as possible up to 300 milliamperes, otherwise it is possible to spoil the crystal and forget about the homemade laser.
A homemade collimator is easiest to make with an ordinary laser pointer... The cheapest Chinese version is also suitable. All that is needed is to remove the optical lens from the "laser" (it is visible). The width of the half-line will be more than 5 millimeters. Of course, this kind of coefficient is huge and cannot claim the title of a laser in any way. The stock collimator lens will help to reduce the diameter down to 1 mm. Although, in order to achieve this effect, it will be necessary to work thoroughly.
Making a laser with your own hands is a very interesting process. It does not require any specialized parts or large economic costs. Completely pretty neat and shallow knowledge of electrics. If production is successful, you can start using the device. Cutting beam effortlessly bursts balloons, burns paper and leaves prints on wood. Nevertheless, when applying, one should not forget about technical safety.
It took the author 4 months to assemble such an engraver; its power is 2 watts. This is not too much, but it allows for engraving on wood and plastic. Also, the device can cut corkwood... The article contains all required material to create an engraver, including STL files for printing structural units, as well as electronic circuits for connecting motors, lasers, and so on.
Video of the engraver's work:
Materials and tools:
Access to a 3D printer;
- rods from stainless steel 5/16 ";
- bronze bushings (for sleeve bearings);
- diode М140 for 2 W;
- heatsink and coolers for creating diode cooling;
- stepper motors, pulleys, toothed belts;
- Super glue;
- wooden beams;
- plywood;
- bolts with nuts;
- acrylic (for creating inserts);
- lens G-2 and driver;
- thermal paste;
- protective glasses;
- Arduino UNO controller;
- drill, cutting tool, self-tapping screws, etc.
The process of making an engraver:
Step one. Create the Y axis
The first step in Autodesk Inventor is to design the wireframe for the printer. Then you can start printing the elements of the Y axis and assembling it. The first part, which is 3D printed, is needed to mount the stepper motor on the Y-axis, connect the steel shafts, and slide along one of the X-axis shafts.
After the part is printed, two bronze bushings need to be installed in it, they are used as slide bearings. To reduce friction, the bushings need to be lubricated. it perfect solution for such projects, since it is cheap.
As for the guides, they are made of stainless steel rods with a diameter of 5/16 ". The stainless steel has a low coefficient of friction with bronze, so it is excellent for plain bearings.
A laser is also installed on the Y-axis; it has a metal case and gets quite hot. To reduce the risk of overheating, you need to install aluminum radiator and coolers for cooling. The author used old elements from the robot controller.
Among other things, in the block for laser 1 "X1" you need to make a hole 31/64 "and add a bolt to the side edge. The block is connected to another part, which is also printed on a 3D printer, it will move along the Y axis. toothed belt.
Once the laser module is assembled, it is mounted on the Y-axis. Stepper motors, pulleys and timing belts are also installed at this stage.
Step two. Create the X axis
Wood was used to create the base of the engraver. The most important thing in this case is that the two X-axes are clearly parallel, otherwise the device will wedge. A separate motor is used to move along the X coordinate, as well as a drive belt in the center of the Y axis. Thanks to this design, the system is simple and works great.
Superglue can be used to attach the crossbeam that connects the belt to the Y-axis. But it is best to print special brackets for these purposes on a 3D printer.
Step three. We connect and check electronics
In a homemade product, a diode such as a diode M140 is used, you can buy a more powerful one, but the price will be higher. To focus the beam you need a lens and a regulated power supply. The lens is mounted on the laser using thermal paste. Working with lasers should be done exclusively with protective goggles.
To test how the electronics work, the author turned it on outside the machine. A computer cooler is used to cool the electronics. The system works on the Arduino Uno controller, which is connected to the grbl. The Universal Gcode Sender is used to enable the signal to be transmitted online. To convert vector images to G-code, you can use Inkscape with the gcodetools plugin installed. To control the laser, a contact is used that controls the operation of the spindle. This is one of the most simple examples using gcodetools.
Step four. Engraver body
The side edges are made of plywood. Since the stepper motor extends slightly outside the housing during operation, a rectangular hole must be made in the back face. In addition, do not forget to make holes for cooling, power connections, and USB port... The edges of the top and front of the case are also made of plywood, and the walls of acrylic are installed in the central part. Above all the elements that are installed in the lower part of the box, an additional wooden platform is attached. It is the basis for the material with which the laser works.
Acrylic is used for the manufacture of the walls orange as it perfectly absorbs laser beams. It is important to remember that even the reflected laser beam can seriously damage the eye. That, in fact, is all, the laser is ready. You can start testing.
Of course, complex images are not very high-quality, but simple engravers can easily burn out simple ones. It can also be used to cut cork wood without any problems.
Attention! Be careful when using lasers. The laser used in this machine can cause damage to eyesight and possibly blindness. When working with powerful lasers, more than 5 mW, always wear a pair of safety glasses designed to block the laser wavelength.
A laser engraver on Arduino is a device whose role is to engrave wood and other materials. Over the past 5 years, laser diodes have moved forward, which made it possible to make sufficiently powerful engravers without much difficulty in controlling laser tubes.
Carefully engrave other materials. So, for example, when using plastic in work with a laser device, smoke will appear, which contains hazardous gases during combustion.
In this lesson I will try to give a direction of thought, and over time we will create a more detailed lesson on the implementation of this difficult device.
To begin with, I propose to see how the whole process of creating an engraver looked like with one radio amateur:
Strong stepper motors also require drivers to make the most of them. In this project, a special stepper driver is taken for each motor.
Below are some details of the selected components:
- Stepper motor - 2 pieces.
- Frame size - NEMA 23.
- Torque 1.8 Nm @ 255 oz.
- 200 steps / revolutions - for 1 step 1.8 degrees.
- Current - up to 3.0 A.
- Weight - 1.05 kg.
- Bipolar 4-wire connection.
- Stepper driver - 2 pieces.
- Digital stepping drive.
- Chip.
- Output current - 0.5 A to 5.6 A.
- Output current limiter - reduces the risk of motors overheating.
- Control signals: inputs Step and Direction.
- Pulse input frequency - up to 200 kHz.
- Supply voltage - 20 V - 50 V DC.
For each axis, the motor directly drives the ball screw through the motor connector. The motors are frame mounted using two aluminum corners and an aluminum plate. The aluminum corners and plate are 3mm thick and strong enough to support the engine (1kg) without kinking.
Important! It is necessary to correctly align the motor shaft and the ball screw. The connectors that are used have some flexibility to compensate for minor errors, but if the alignment error is too large, they won't work!
Another process of creation this device you can watch the video:
2. Materials and tools
Below is a table with the materials and tools required for the Arduino laser engraver project.
| Paragraph | Provider | Quantity |
| NEMA 23 stepper motor + driver | eBay (Seller: primopal_motor) | 2 |
| 16mm diameter, 5mm pitch, 400mm long ball screw (Taiwanese) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| 16mm BK12 support with ball screw (drive end) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| 16mm BF12 Ball Screw Support (no driven end) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| 16 shaft 500 mm long | (seller: silvers-123) | 4 |
| (SK16) 16 shaft support (SK16) | (seller: silvers-123) | 8 |
| 16 linear bearing (SC16LUU) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 4 |
| eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 | |
| Shaft holder 12 mm (SK12) | (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| A4 size 4.5mm clear acrylic sheet | eBay (seller: acrylicsonline) | 4 |
| Aluminum Flat Rod 100mm x 300mm x 3mm | eBay (Seller: willymetals) | 3 |
| 50mm x 50mm 2.1m Aluminum Fence | Any theme store | 3 |
| Aluminum Flat Bar | Any theme store | 1 |
| Aluminum corner | Any theme store | 1 |
| Aluminum corner 25mm x 25mm x 1m x 1.4mm | Any theme store | 1 |
| M5 head screws (various lengths) | boltsnutsscrewsonline.com | |
| M5 nuts | boltsnutsscrewsonline.com | |
| M5 washers | boltsnutsscrewsonline.com |
3. Development of the base and axes
The machine uses ball screws and linear bearings to control the position and movement of the X and Y axes.
Features of ball screws and machine accessories:
- 16mm ball screw, length is 400mm-462mm including machined ends;
- step - 5 mm;
- C7 accuracy rating;
- BK12 / BF12 ball bearings.
Since a ball nut consists of ball bearings rolling in caterpillar against a very low friction ball screw, this means the motors can run at higher speeds without stopping.
The rotational orientation of the ball nut is blocked by an aluminum element. The base plate is attached to two linear bearings and a ball nut through an aluminum angle. Rotation of the Ballscrew shaft drives the base plate in linear motion.
4. Electronic component
The laser diode of choice is a 1.5 W, 445 nm diode mounted in a 12 mm housing with a focusable glass lens. These can be found, pre-assembled, on eBay. Since it is a 445nm laser, the light it produces is visible blue light.
The laser diode requires a heat sink when working on high levels power. The engraver is designed with two 12mm SK12 aluminum supports for both mounting and cooling the laser module.
The output intensity of the laser depends on the current that flows through it. A diode by itself cannot regulate current, and if connected directly to a power source, it will increase current until it collapses. Thus, an adjustable current circuit is required to protect the laser diode and control its brightness.
Another version of the connection diagram of the microcontroller and electronic parts:
5. Software
Arduino sketch interprets each block of commands. There are several commands:
1 - Move RIGHT one pixel FAST (blank pixel).
2 - move RIGHT one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
3 - move LEFT one pixel FAST (empty pixel).
4 - move LEFT one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
5 - move up one pixel FAST (empty pixel).
6 - move UP one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
7 - move DOWN by one pixel FAST (blank pixel).
8 - move DOWN by one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
9 - turn on the laser.
0 - turn off the laser.
r - return the axes to their original position.
With each symbol, the Arduino triggers the corresponding function to write to the output pins.
Arduino controls engine speed across delays between step pulses... Ideally, the machine will start its motors at the same speed, whether it engraves its image or misses a blank pixel. However, due to the limited power of the laser diode, the machine needs a little slow down at pixel recording... This is why there is two speeds for each direction in the list of command symbols above.
A sketch of 3 programs for the Arduino laser engraver is below:
/ * Stepper motor control program * / // constants won "t change. Used here to set pin numbers: const int ledPin = 13; // the number of the LED pin const int OFF = 0; const int ON = 1; const int XmotorDIR = 5; const int XmotorPULSE = 2; const int YmotorDIR = 6; const int YmotorPULSE = 3; // half step delay for blank pixels - multiply by 8 (<8ms)
const unsigned int shortdelay = 936;
//half step delay for burnt pixels - multiply by 8 (<18ms)
const unsigned int longdelay = 2125;
//Scale factor
//Motor driver uses 200 steps per revolution
//Ballscrew pitch is 5mm. 200 steps/5mm, 1 step = 0.025mm
//const int scalefactor = 4; //full step
const int scalefactor = 8; //half step
const int LASER = 51;
// Variables that will change:
int ledState = LOW; // ledState used to set the LED
int counter = 0;
int a = 0;
int initialmode = 0;
int lasermode = 0;
long xpositioncount = 0;
long ypositioncount = 0;
//***********************************************************************************************************
//Initialisation Function
//***********************************************************************************************************
void setup()
{
// set the digital pin as output:
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(LASER, OUTPUT);
for (a = 2; a <8; a++){
pinMode(a, OUTPUT);
}
a = 0;
setinitialmode();
digitalWrite (ledPin, ON);
delay(2000);
digitalWrite (ledPin, OFF);
// Turn the Serial Protocol ON
Serial.begin(9600);
}
//************************************************************************************************************
//Main loop
//************************************************************************************************************
void loop()
{
byte byteRead;
if (Serial.available()) {
/* read the most recent byte */
byteRead = Serial.read();
//You have to subtract "0" from the read Byte to convert from text to a number.
if (byteRead!="r"){
byteRead=byteRead-"0";
}
//Move motors
if(byteRead==1){
//Move right FAST
fastright();
}
if(byteRead==2){
//Move right SLOW
slowright();
}
if(byteRead==3){
//Move left FAST
fastleft();
}
if(byteRead==4){
//Move left SLOW
slowleft();
}
if(byteRead==5){
//Move up FAST
fastup();
}
if(byteRead==6){
//Move up SLOW
slowup();
}
if(byteRead==7){
//Move down FAST
fastdown();
}
if(byteRead==8){
//Move down SLOW
slowdown();
}
if(byteRead==9){
digitalWrite (LASER, ON);
}
if(byteRead==0){
digitalWrite (LASER, OFF);
}
if (byteRead=="r"){
//reset position
xresetposition();
yresetposition();
delay(1000);
}
}
}
//************************************************************************************************************
//Set initial mode
//************************************************************************************************************
void setinitialmode()
{
if (initialmode == 0){
digitalWrite (XmotorDIR, OFF);
digitalWrite (XmotorPULSE, OFF);
digitalWrite (YmotorDIR, OFF);
digitalWrite (YmotorPULSE, OFF);
digitalWrite (ledPin, OFF);
initialmode = 1;
}
}
//************************************************************************************************************
// Main Motor functions
//************************************************************************************************************
void fastright()
{
for (a=0; a
6. Launch and setup
Arduino represents a brain for a machine. It outputs the step and direction signals for the stepper drivers and the laser enable signal for the laser driver. In the current project, only 5 output contacts are required to control the machine. It is important to remember that the bases for all components must be related to each other.
7. Functional check
This circuit requires at least 10 VDC power, and has a simple on / off input that is provided by the Arduino. The LM317T microcircuit is a linear voltage regulator that is configured like a current regulator. A potentiometer is included in the circuit to adjust the regulated current.
Our ancestors were engaged in stone processing in ancient times. This culture has survived to this day, but only working with this material has become much easier and more convenient, thanks to innovations and modern machines. A laser desktop stone engraver makes work easier and allows you to make clear drawings on any kind of stone.
A laser machine is a convenient and quick way to apply any image on a stone, thanks to which you can make a pattern of any complexity, even those that you cannot create with your own hands. With the help of an engraving printer, you can start your own profitable business. But how much does such a machine cost, and which models are popular?
Stone Engraving Machine
Many companies today make good quality laser cutting machines. Each of them has its own pros and cons. The table describes the models of the best manufacturers and prices.
These are the most popular models that allow you to start your own stone engraving service business. But not everyone has the opportunity to immediately purchase such equipment, in this case, you can start your own business with a machine made by yourself. A DIY laser engraver from a printer is the best way to start a business with minimal investment.
How to make an engraver from a printer?
Making an engraving machine from an old printer is a snap. Detailed instructions will help you figure it out. But first you need to prepare all the necessary details:
- 3 studs from a hardware store;
- aluminum U-profile;
- 2 bearings;
- a piece of plexiglass;
- regular size and long nuts;
- 3 stepper motors, can be borrowed from an old printer.
Also, in addition to this, you need to have such tools at hand: a hacksaw, a drill, a jigsaw, bolts, screws, screwdrivers and other tools. The only thing that needs to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the machine, although it can also be made on a bolt mount. Instructions on how to make a laser printer at home with your own hands are described in the table below.
| P / p No. | Machine manufacturing steps |
| 1. | The manufacture of the machine begins with the fastening of the lead screw and the profile. The latter is used as a kind of sled. |
| The bearings are fixed with heat shrink, and soft plastic is perfect for constricting - a regular paper folder. A plate in the shape of the letter "P" with a bolt is attached to the lead screw; it is necessary for fixing the plane of the X axis. | |
| The motor on the X-axis is attached with pieces of studs. The axle is fixed with an adapter and a piece of rubber hose. It is screwed onto the running axle on one side, and the other end is fixed in the adapter. | |
| 4. | It is also very convenient and easy to attach the motor to the frame. |
| 5. | The platform is made of plexiglass, on which it is imperative to put a limiter made of a profile and a pressure roller. The platform should be the size of the working area of the machine. |
| 6. | The Y-axis is assembled identically to the X-axis, the only difference is the motor mount, it needs to be attached to the X-axis. |
| Correctly assembling the Y-axis is not difficult, because it almost repeats all the contours of the X-axis, but only the pressure rollers must be fixed in front. The do-it-yourself engraving machine in this model can be an ordinary household dremel. You can attach it with plexiglass. |
So the do-it-yourself laser desktop engraving machine is ready. Now it only remains to connect it using the limit switches. This homemade device allows you to carve stone at home, but does not provide an opportunity to cut it.
What stones can be engraved on?
Not every stone lends itself to engraving; dark natural materials are best suited for engraving, such as:
- granite;
- marble;
- white marble.
The engraving on snow-white marble looks especially beautiful, since the machine is capable of producing a continuous white-stone inscription or pattern with it, as a result it turns out very beautifully. Laser engraving can be compared to glass matting. Indeed, with the help of such a machine, it will not be possible to make a deep inscription, since the beam is able to melt the material, and in the end result the work is almost invisible. The best effect from the machine is obtained on surfaces in shades of gray.
But as soon as you manage to make money on a good machine, it is worth buying it if there is a prospect of working further in this area. Professional machines allow you to create an image quickly, accurately and accurately, this applies to even the smallest details. A professional grade laser engraver achieves an excellent resemblance to a photographic source. A professional machine, even a desktop one, is capable of applying an inscription of any font and size, so it is convenient and practical.
Save the article in 2 clicks:
Starting a business with a homemade engraver is convenient and inexpensive, but in the future, in order to satisfy all the needs and desires of your customers, you will still have to purchase a modern model of an engraver, albeit an inexpensive one.... This way, your business will flourish and pay off in a short time. Having learned how to create masterpieces on stone with your own hands, you will make yourself a good fame, and clients will come to you with orders.
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