Repair of plastic parts. How to repair a broken plastic part

Manufacturers love relatively cheap, malleable and lightweight plastic. And car owners have a reason to love it - details from this material. So, there is no need to regularly go broke to replace damaged parts.

Before we tell you how to fix plastic products, let's pay attention to some of their features. Today, manufacturers use various types of plastics, including ABS plastic, polypropylene, polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride and others. They all have different properties, soBefore starting repairs, you must definitely find out what material you are dealing with. Marking to help you - it is on any part. Trying to weld two parts from different plastics will waste your time: joining, for example, polypropylene with ABS plastic will be fragile, and therefore extremely short-lived.

Let's get back to repair and tell you how to fix plastic parts with glue and soldering. Before us is a damaged spare part. Let's get started!

Solution 1: Bonding

This repair method is quite simple. For it you will need, we have dichloroethane, it is the most affordable and perfectly glues ABS plastic. You will also need a brush, preferably synthetic. It is convenient because after the first use, the glued hardened hairs can be cut, and the rest of them can be heated, the hairs will fluff up, and the brush will still serve you.

So, we take a brush, moisten it in dichloroethane, apply it to the parts or parts to be glued - first to one, then to the other. It is better to put the composition in two layers, since the first, preliminary, will begin to actively corrode the plastic ... We apply the parts to each other, press and wait. Dichloroethane dries for quite a long time, up to six hours. With patience, we get the whole part!

Solution 2: Soldering

In fact, there are two ways to weld a plastic part at the site of damage - using a hair dryer and a plastic rod or a soldering iron and a brass or copper mesh. But first, let's talk about the device with which we will carry out the work.

Usually, powerful large hair dryers are used for soldering (they are also called technical ones). But it is inconvenient to work with them: such hair dryers are bulky, heavy and warm up a large surface. Sowe preferred a simple soldering station with a soldering iron and a light, compact hair dryer. It is inexpensive, around 3000 rubles - the price may vary depending on the configuration. We will not need the solder included in the kit, which is used to repair radio components.

Method 1. Repair with a hair dryer and a rod

We remove the hair dryer from the station. We set the temperature required for soldering ABS plastic to 300 °C. In the course of work, the temperature should be adjusted if the plastic melts too much or, conversely, not enough.

We heat the rod with a hair dryer so that it becomes soft and almost starts to melt, we do the same with the damaged area on the part. The counterpart must be well heated, otherwise the adhesion will be poor, and the resulting connection is fragile. If the plastic of the repaired part swells, then the process is proceeding correctly.

Method 2. Repair with a soldering iron and mesh

To perform this work, we put a flat nozzle on the soldering iron. It is inconvenient to press the mesh with a standard sharp tip. Speaking of her. You can use a brass or copper mesh - large or with a fine mesh structure. A piece of brass mesh approximately 250x200 mm in size costs about 250 rubles. A larger mesh will cost less and can also be used, but be prepared to spend more time.

To begin with, we will level and fix the damaged area so that the surface does not play during the repair process. To do this, we connect the edges of the crack in some places, melting them with a soldering iron, and let them cool. After that, we apply the grid and begin to solder it. We do not have a very powerful soldering iron (about 45 W), so we set the maximum temperature so that the process goes faster.

We begin to sink the mesh into the plastic. It turns out a reinforced surface, neat and quite beautiful. It is convenient to connect cracks in a similar way, for example. The work is easy and relatively simple. The main thing is to make sure that the grid is completely soldered. When everything is ready, let the plastic cool. We check. We've got a pretty solid connection. The surface is slightly wobbly because we haven't fixed the pieces on the outside. To get a more rigid connection, you can solder the rod here, then remove the excess plastic and paint the part.

Repair of plastic parts is a painstaking process, but relatively simple and budgetary. In this case, you can choose the most convenient way to repair and, after spending some time, do not spend extra money.

October 8, 2018
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

My victories

Look at the number of things that could have just been thrown away that I saved from that fate by giving them back a second chance:

• glasses;
• chairs;
• buckets;
• kitchen containers;
• toys;
• handles of cabinets and refrigerators;
• hair brushes;
• hangers;
• sandals;
• automotive parts;
• electronic cabinets;
• badges and many other items.

The list is endless. So, let's find out how they can be welded, and for this I need to tell you about a soldering technique that is suitable for most cases.

Soldering technique

In most cases, you will only need:

1. Soldering iron. A simple flat tip used in electronics with tin solder.
2. Respirator. For respiratory protection against plastic gases (extractor to remove vapors is the best solution).

If your plastic is thin, missing a piece, or needs to be liquid-tight or electrical safety restored, you may also need to:

1. Disposable plastic strips.
2. Paperclip or wire.
3. Superglue, solder clips, or another way to hold the parts in place while you're welding them.

Important! Some plastics break quite easily when exposed to sunlight and collapse on their own. In these cases, welding will not help.

I am preparing a soldering iron

• Models with temperature controller. There are many types of soldering irons and soldering stations. In addition to the usual classic ones, there are a number of models that can be set to the desired temperature. If the plastic is heated too much, it can lose its original properties, weaken and break. Exposure to high temperatures also causes the formation of toxic fumes.
• Models with a flat tip. For soldering plastic, it is best to use a flat tip. But if it is not there, you can flatten the existing one. This can be done by first tapping it with a hammer, and then squeezing it in a vise.

Preparing supplementary material

Is your plastic too thin or has holes? Then it is necessary to use plastic parts to add material to the original plastic. The best option is to take strips of the same type of plastic that you are welding.

But if this is not possible, the photos above show simple solutions to this problem:

• cut from thin plastic parts such as shampoo bottles, pet bottles, etc.;
• use plastic zippers or plastic cable ties;
• remove the rim from the PET bottles.

I amplify the details

Although very strong plastic welds will be made during the repair process, in some cases even a small amount of constant stress can break the repaired item again.

To avoid this:

• I fasten the most loaded areas with the help of metal staples of a construction stapler.
• I solder the perpendicular plastic amplifiers.
• I reinforce the seams with thick wire.
• I apply aluminum foil amplifiers from beer cans.

Fixing the details

If there are difficulties when soldering, then it is necessary to securely fix the parts to be welded. To do this, you can use special solder clamps or superglue to temporarily hold them in place before soldering.

Protecting the respiratory system

Here are some tips to avoid the harmful effects of smoke:

• Use a respirator.
• Solder at head level and above (smoke will go up, bypassing the respiratory system).
• Use any fan as an exhaust fan.
• Using a soldering iron with a heat regulator, if smoke appears, reduce the temperature.
• As an alternative to a soldering iron with a regulator, you can connect the plug to a voltage regulator to reduce the power and temperature of the tip.

Gloves and goggles:

• Gloves can protect you from being burned - some soldering irons reach temperatures of around 600°C.
• Don't forget to protect your plastic glasses lenses from accidental heat with a heat-resistant clear coat. It is best to use glasses with glass lenses.

I start soldering

The secret to a successful repair is to melt the plastic at the broken point so that both melted pieces fuse together, literally welding themselves together. Here is how I do it:

1. I place the tip of the soldering iron in the place of the break.
2. I push it forward a little to form a molten plastic mass along the fault.
3. I repeat this again after the last formed part to make another mass next to the previous one.
4. The result is a good weld, reminiscent of the seams formed when welding metals.

When the fixed parts are too thin, or to make up for some missing part, I usually add more plastic:

• I place a plastic strip over the part to be fixed.
• I warm up with a soldering iron until the parts to be soldered and the strip begin to melt.
• I press the strip into the fault and lead the soldering iron further along the welding site.
• If necessary, I add metal amplifiers to make soldering stronger. You need to do this at the moment when the plastic is melted - press the metal until it enters the plastic.

Important! Remember to check the other side to make sure the metal hasn't gone all the way through the plastic. If this happens, you will have to cover the other side with plastic.

Finishing. After making a weld, sometimes you want to ennoble it to make it less noticeable. To do this, I go through the top with a soldering iron, smoothing out the influxes.

Testing. First I let the product cool down, and then I start testing the welds. A good way to check is to use it in extreme situations, like sitting on a chair, or maybe jumping around a bit.

Here is a list of my recent tests:

• The plastic box that was in some of the pictures above showed itself to be rather weak. A simple fall from a low height broke it, so I had to redo the job 4 times, adding 8 metal reinforcements, until the box was strong enough.
• Lid for kitchen container made of PET. This breakdown was fixed in 1 time - I could not break it with my hands.
• The PVC tube also became very strong after being corrected, even doing tough tests with it.

Advice! What should I do if the seam bursts again during the test? Do the work again, but adding more metal and plastic, melt it deeper.

Cartola shared his experience from instructables.com

October 8, 2018

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Plastic is a universal material, but it must be handled carefully and carefully, because its strength closely borders on fragility.

Our workshop offers a full range of restoration and plastic repair any sizes and shapes.

Only professional equipment is involved in the work, which allows you to repair efficiently and quickly in the shortest possible time.

We use a special technology that allows you to restore the surface with high quality. Thus, the product receives the original attractive appearance.

Features of plastic repair

should be carried out by qualified specialists who have all the nuances and skills in the relevant field.

It is important to take into account the details when repairing. For example, polypropylene or polyethylene, the most common types of plastic, have a limited range of temperatures at which they function. It varies from -15 to +120 degrees Celsius.

That is why it is impossible to use cold welding or other adhesive substances in the work.

We work with hot air welding technology, which qualitatively allows you to restore the damaged element.

It is also important to take into account other features of the part, for example, whether pressure arises during its operation. After all, under heavy loads, the soldered seam may not withstand and again become unusable.

Plastic repairs can be done with polymers in several colors, including blue, white, green, gray and black. The repaired part becomes sealed.

What do we offer?

Cooperating with us, you get first-class service at an affordable price. There are two reasons for this: firstly, we have a powerful material and technical base at our disposal, which allows us to independently establish the pricing policy of our work.

Secondly, our specialists have a significant work experience - from 5 years, which allows them to quickly eliminate even the most complex breakdowns.

We work 24 hours, so we can take on repairs within a whole day.

If you have any questions, our consultants will be happy to answer them.

We will also provide you with an online consultation on the topic you are interested in completely free of charge. To contact us, call the number listed on the website.

Repair of plastic has its own price list, the prices of which depend on the degree of damage to the product. We also provide a guarantee for the services provided.

Plastic soldering is a service, the experience of providing which in our workshop is colossal.

Give us a call and we will surely surprise you!

Plastic has many advantages, but it also has one significant drawback - fragility. Plastic products may crack, break, pieces may break off, etc. If the damage is significant, then the thing is easier to throw away and buy a new one than to repair it, but minor damage is quite possible to fix it yourself. Restoration of plastic can be carried out by different methods, the choice of which largely depends on the type of plastic itself. On many plastic products, you can find markings with the composition of the plastic and this will help in choosing a recovery technology. So, thermoplastics are glued with a special glue, and thermoplastics are sealed. Also, the method of repairing plastic products also depends on the nature of the damage - a crack, a scratch, a chip, etc.

When repairing plastic items, the following materials and tools may be needed: solvents (for example, acetone), sanding paper No. 1000, soldering iron or plastic glue, clamps, abrasive paste, brushes or syringe, solder, plastic cleaner, brass mesh, primer and paint for plastic, grinder, varnish.

Repair plastic with glue

• Before starting the restoration, the plastic is treated with sanding paper, removing dirt. It is also necessary to degrease the place of gluing.
• Glue is applied to the crack or seam with a brush or syringe. If necessary, parts of the plastic to be glued can be reinforced with fiberglass.
• Next, combine the parts so that they do not move and at the same time tightly pressed against each other. For best results, you can use a clamp.

Soldering plastic repair

Repairing plastic with epoxy

For this method, you will need an epoxy pier and hardener, fiberglass or serpentine tape (sold in hardware stores), acetone, castor oil, a file and sanding paper, electrical tape or adhesive tape, plastic utensils and wooden sticks, primer for plastic, polyester putty, car enamel.

A broken part of some tool, especially during work, can greatly spoil not only the work process itself, but also the mood for further work. It’s good if, with the breakdown of an insignificant part, the tool has not failed, and it can still be worked on until this most unfortunate part is replaced. In my case, for example, the lining between the frame and the container broke at the garden wheelbarrow.

The damage seems to be minor, and you can continue to work. But not everything is so simple; with a more or less serious load, the wheelbarrow begins to lead in the direction from which the lining broke. This is very inconvenient when carrying heavy loads. Then I decided to remove the second overlay, for symmetry! Thought it would help.

Indeed, it helped - it stopped driving the wheelbarrow to the side. But she began to creak like hell! Ears curl up! No amount of lube oil helps. For a long time I could not bear it, and went to the nearest hardware store, for the part I needed, which, of course, was not there. Traveling around the city, in search of the right thing, there was not the slightest desire. Then I decided to repair the broken thing myself. Today we will consider one of the options for how to put together a thin plastic overlay split in half. This advice will be of great help to those who find themselves in a similar situation. It may not necessarily be an overlay from a wheelbarrow. In this way, you can restore any plastic thing or part. At least until the original one is purchased from the store.

You will need:

• Pliers.
• Pin.
• Glue second.
• Glue composite, type "cold welding".
• Drill, the thickness of a cooked pin.
• Boron machine or small drill.
• Small grinding disc for boron machines.

Broken part repair

First you need to check if any other small pieces have fallen off and study the object of repair in more detail. If the repaired part has stiffeners, then the longitudinal ones will have to be removed. This can be done with pliers and a machine drill with a small grinding disc.

Further, in the thickest-walled places, with a two-millimeter drill, you need to drill holes into the part. Like this:

Depth of 4-5 millimeters. We will need these holes to reinforce the part. For more durability. Next, we take the prepared pin, straighten it, and break it (or bite it off with wire cutters - as it suits you!) into eight millimeter pieces.

Now, using a match, or thin wiring, we lubricate the holes on the drilled half of the broken part, and stick the pins obtained from the pin into the holes.

We do everything extremely quickly so that the glue does not seize in empty holes. Next, drill holes in the second half of the broken part. Strictly opposite the pins sticking out of the first half. If everything turned out as it should, we grease both halves in the split place with second glue, and stick them into each other.

It is necessary to compress the parts to be glued. At least thirty seconds for them to grab on.

Now it's the turn of the composite adhesive. I use the "cold welding" type - a very convenient glue. There is not as much fuss with it as, for example, with the liquid components of epoxy glue. Yes, and it freezes much faster, and in terms of reliability of fastening, they are the same.

In general, we break off, or cut off, the piece we need from the total mass, spray our palms with water, and carefully stir and knead the glue in our palms. Until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

Next, we lubricate with second glue the inner surface of the part being repaired, the one with which we broke out the longitudinal stiffeners. And we sculpt cold welding on the surface smeared with glue.