Natalya Sergeevna to make a chair sheathed with cloth. Do-it-yourself chair upholstery can be done by anyone

There can be a great many reasons to update old chairs or decorate new ones with your own hands. This is the need to adapt furniture to the interior, the desire to correct design flaws, restore chairs inherited from the grandmother or found for nothing at the flea market. In this article, we will talk about 4 ways to transform your “four-legged friends” (including office and garden chairs) beyond recognition, and also present 70 cool photo rework ideas.

Method 1. Painting a chair

Even the most old-fashioned or just ordinary chair, say, a "Viennese" wooden, plastic, folding or office chair, can be transformed with the help of staining. The main thing here is to choose the right color. Here are some inspiring examples where color alone saved furniture from landfill.

Old Viennese chair before and after renovation

A few more examples of reworking the most common bent beech Viennese chairs, which can be found in almost every house or cottage.

And here are a few cool ideas painting stools.

Inspired? Then let's get down to practice!

To paint a chair you will need:

Acrylic paint, and preferably chalk paint in one or more colors;
Synthetic flat brushes (separately for primer, paint and varnish);
Protective gloves (it is better to buy at a pharmacy);
Primer for wood / metal (depending on the frame material);
Wax or matte varnish (polyurethane or acrylic);
Sandpaper of medium and fine grain.

How to paint a chair with your own hands:

Prepare the chair for painting: wash it from coarse dirt and dust, then sand it sandpaper medium grit to remove upper layer old varnish or paint. The surface should be slightly rough.

If you want to update metal chair, then it is not necessary to sand it (although it is still more reliable to grind the top gloss), but before priming / painting the frame must be degreased with white spirit.
Also, you can avoid the tedious sanding step if you use chalk paint, but you can’t do without a primer.
If your stool is varnished, then it can be removed special tool for removing varnish.

If the chair has damage, such as scratches, chips and cracks, putty them with furniture putty.

Wipe the chair from dust, wait for it to dry and apply a primer on the entire frame in two layers, allowing each layer to dry for about a day. Between coats, it is advisable to sand the primer with fine-grained sandpaper (No. 220 is suitable).
Take a new brush and paint the chair in 2-3 coats, letting each coat dry completely. Make sure that the paint does not form smudges.

If you want to paint a chair with a scuffed effect, then first some places (for example, on the edges of the seat, back and armrests) need to be painted with a dark paint, say dark gray or dark blue, and then waxed over them. Next, you should paint the chair with the main paint in 2-3 layers. And, finally, having slightly worked with a fine-grained sandpaper, expose the dark “substrate”.

Do you want to achieve the effect of the perfect factory painting? Then be patient: each coat of primer and paint (with the exception of finishing layers) will have to be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. So the coating will turn out to be as even and reliable as possible.
To paint only certain parts or parts of the chair, use masking tape.

Treat the chair with wax or matte varnish. Voila, your "four-legged friend" has found new life!

Helpful Hints:

Don't know what color to paint the chair? You can’t go wrong if you paint it white, because this color is the most versatile, goes well with any bright upholstery;
Before staining on the back of the chair can be glued stucco decor with wood glue;
Achieve the effect of a very old and dirty chair in Provence style, you can use dark brown wax;
Chalk paint is a relatively new type of paint that is not yet commercially available. However, we recommend using it, because due to its density, increased adhesive properties and super-fast drying (in 30 minutes), it saves a lot of time and effort. Buy in Russia chalk paints you can at the designer Daria Geyler, and in Kazakhstan - at the Vernenskaya Manufactory. Also you can always order paints foreign manufacturers- Annie Sloan and Rustoleum.

Better figure out how to paint old chair this video tutorial will help you with your own hands.

Method 2. Seat upholstery

Most often, if the chair has soft seat, then painting the frame is not enough to completely update it - you need to change the upholstery. Here are some photo examples of how upholstering a seat can turn an old chair into a stylish piece of decor.

Office chair before and after painting, reupholstering the back and seat

By the way, if your chair or stool does not have a soft seat, then you can make it yourself: first, cut out the MDF base exactly according to the shape of the seat, then, following our master class, upholster it and, finally, screw it onto the chair frame with screws.

To make a soft seat for a stool, it is enough to glue the foam rubber directly onto the base, and then cover it with a cloth, hammering the stapler staples onto inside seats.

Upholstered stool

For work you will need:

Anti-stapler (or its alternative);
Furniture stapler and staples with a height not exceeding the thickness of the seat base;
Textile;
Foam rubber about 4 cm thick;
Batting or synthetic winterizer;
Scissors;
Knife-serreytor for bread (with teeth);
Screwdriver.

How to reupholster a chair with your own hands:

First we need to remove the seat from the chair frame with a nail puller or a screwdriver.
We are filming old upholstery using an anti-stapler and remove the filler if it is dilapidated (if it is in good condition, then it can be reused). Next, wipe the base of the seat from dust and dirt.

If the wooden base of the seat seems too old and unreliable to you, use it as a template to cut a new seat out of plywood.

We put the seat on the foam rubber, trace its outline and cut it out.

We cut the fabric and batting in such a size that they can wrap all sides of the seat (along with foam rubber), leaving free 10-15 cm. These surpluses are needed to make it more convenient to stretch the material.
So, we got four blanks: base, foam rubber, batting / synthetic winterizer and fabric. Now we need to put it all in a sandwich. First of all, we spread the batting, put foam rubber on it, and on the foam rubber - the base of the seat with the wrong side up. Next, we simply bend the edges of the batting onto the seat and, slightly pulling the material, fix it with a stapler. The corners of the batting can be cut off, or you can simply bend and fasten in the same way.

How to restore a chair seat

After all the batting is attached to the seat, trim off the excess.

If desired, the foam rubber can be pre-glued to the base or quilted around the perimeter with a stapler, retreating 5 mm from the edge of the seat.

The most crucial moment has come - the stage of reupholstering the seat with a cloth. Spread the fabric inside out and place the seat on it. Next, fold the edges of the fabric along one of the sides and fix with a stapler. Now stretch the fabric slightly over the opposite side of the seat and fix it with a stapler in the same way.

Repeat the procedure on the remaining two sides and proceed to the design of the corners - they need to be wrapped as shown in the photo below.

Chair after restoration

We return the seat to its place and fix it with "native" fasteners.

Helpful Hints:

The upholstered seat of the chair can be additionally decorated with furniture carnations around the perimeter.
Upholstery fabric should be selected in accordance with the style of the chair. So, for example, a traditional jacquard fabric is not suitable for a modern chair, and a classic chair with an elegant back is unlikely to “make friends” with a fabric with a new-fashioned geometric print.
The same fabric from which your curtains are sewn is ideal for upholstery of a chair. In the interior, such a coincidence will look very harmonious.
The print on the fabric may overlap with the carved crossbars as shown in the photo below.

For a more visual master class of upholstery of an old chair seat, see this video.

Method 3. Decoupage of a chair with paper

Do you want to decorate a chair with a cool print or cover up minor defects like scratches and stains with drawings? This can be done using the decoupage technique.

chair decoupage idea

You will need:

Any paper with the desired print, for example, it can be multilayer napkins, pages from magazines and books, geographic Maps, posters, wallpapers, etc.;
PVA glue;
Brushes 2 pcs (for applying glue and varnish);
Scissors;
Transparent matt varnish acrylic or polyurethane;
Water (if necessary);
Roller for working with large formats.

How to update decoupage chairs:

Step 1. Clean the chair from dirt and stains, paint if necessary, following the first instruction in the article.

Step 2. Cut out the fragment that you need from the selected polygraphy. The workpiece can be either large (for example, in the shape of the seat and back) or very small.

If you are using napkins, then first you need to separate the top layer with a pattern and only then cut it out.
If you want to cover the entire chair, including the legs, the paper needs to be randomly torn into small pieces of about 10x10 cm, as shown in the next photo slider.

To decoupage the back and seat, they must be removed from the chair frame with a screwdriver, and then used as a template for cutting the workpiece (see photo below).

Step 3 Lubricate the place you want to decorate with PVA glue liberally and attach your drawing to it, then smooth with a brush with the remaining glue, releasing all air bubbles and smoothing out the wrinkles.

If the cut out print is small, then it is better to grease not the chair, but the reverse side of the workpiece itself with glue.
If the paper is very dense, then it needs to be moistened a little in water - so it will become more plastic.

A top layer of adhesive is not required but is often desirable (it should be thin anyway).

Step 4. Repeat step 3 with other parts of the chair and leave the glue to dry for about a day.

Step 5. Coat the decorated areas or the entire chair with 4 coats of clear lacquer, allowing each coat to dry completely. Ready!

Method 4. Decoupage of a chair with a cloth

It would seem, how else can you radically modify the chair with your own hands, except by painting. In fact, there is another cool way - decoupage with a cloth.

A chair updated in this way will last a surprisingly long time even under heavy loads. And if individual threads are knocked out of the fabric along the edges of the chair, you can simply cut them off and process them with a layer of PVA glue.

Decoupage idea for an old chair

You will need:

Textile;
Wooden chair;
PVA glue or special glue for decoupage;
Sharp clerical or dummy knife;
Brush for applying glue.

How to update a decoupage chair:

Step 1. Using a screwdriver, remove the back and seat from the chair. If you want to paint the chair, do so before taking it apart.

Step 2. Spread the fabric on a flat surface, put the seat on it and circle it along the contour, stepping back about 2.5 cm from the edge, then cut out the blank.

Step 3 Cover outside your seat with PVA glue, then lay the fabric on it and smooth it. Once the fabric is leveled, coat it with PVA glue and leave to dry overnight.

Step 4 When the fabric is dry, make sure it is completely stiff. Next, cut off the excess fabric with a sharp knife exactly along the edges of the seat.

Step 5. Now again treat the perimeter of the seat with PVA glue to prevent wear at the edges.

STEP 6. Repeat steps 2-5 with the back of the chair and other details you want to decorate and finally put the chair back together. The main condition for the successful restoration of the chair is that the pattern must exactly repeat the shape of the surface to be decorated.

Here are some more photo ideas for decorating a chair with fabric.

Decoupage office chair fabric with additional protection with polyurethane varnish

Decoupage ideas for stools

Breathe new life into your favorite chairs by removing the worn upholstery and replacing it with a new one. And upholstery upholstery is a great way to fit your favorite furniture into color scheme renovated room interior. The method of upholstery will depend slightly on the type of chairs. Here are some standard methods.

Steps

Part 1

Remove furniture nails and other fasteners

This section is about how to remove furniture nails and other pointed fasteners. If staples were used for fasteners, skip to another section.

Bring the chisel to the edge of the nail head or other fastener.

Tap the tip of the chisel with a wooden mallet.

Gently lift the nail (or other fastener) up with a lever. Repeat the procedure carefully until the nail is released from the wood.

Put the removed nails in a bag or immediately throw them in the trash. This is to prevent you from accidentally stepping on sharp objects.

Part 2

This section is about the large, reinforced type of staples that hold the upholstery fabric.

Use the regulator to remove the staples. This is a specialized tool used in the wallpaper trade to remove staples from furniture. It can be bought online in specialized stores.

Bring the end of the adjuster under the center of the bracket. Use the lever to lift the regulator up while pressing on the edge of the tree.
- If the wood is polished or this part of the chair is visible, place a metal plate or fabric under the regulator so that the lever touches them and not the wood. So there will be no traces due to pressure with the regulator.
Wait until one of the ends of the staple shows up. The second one usually stays inside.

Take pliers or side cutters and grab the brace. Pull up and twist a little to pull the bracket completely out of the wood.

Repeat the procedure until all staples have been pulled out. Some people prefer the conveyor method: first, they lift all the brackets with the regulator, and then pull them out with the pliers, so as not to constantly switch from the regulator to the pliers on each bracket.

Part 3

Remove the upholstery from the seat, backrest and armrests. Once you remove the fasteners, you can remove the old fabric and use these sheathing blanks to make new ones.

Mark the removed workpieces with arrows, letters, or something else so that it is convenient for you to draw the same on new fabric. No need to be lazy: the effort will pay off later when you need to be accurate.

It will be easier if you draw a chair outline for each piece of upholstery you removed and write down the corresponding letter or number on each piece of fabric, both on the diagram and on the back of the fabric.
Pay attention to folds, folds, bends, etc., so that you can repeat them later when making a new upholstery.

When removing skin sections, write down the order in which you do it. This will help you a lot when you start to collect all this in reverse order. Chair/chair upholstery sections are usually labeled as follows:
- IB = inside back (back of the inside)
- OB = outside back (outer back)
- IW = inside wing (inner wing)
- OW = outside wing (outer wing)
- IA = inside arm (armrest of the inside)
- OA = outside arm (armrest of the outer part)
- S = seat (seat)
- SC = seat cushion (seat cushion)
- FB = front border (front edge)
- SB = side border (side edge)
- AF = arm facing (front of the armrest)
- SK = skirt. (edge)

Part 4

Save the padding

Carefully lift up the padding. Try not to break or tear anything. Her current shape was achieved by years of sitting in a chair, so her shape is already a perfect fit for that chair.
- It should be lifted with both hands, putting the stuffing in the crook of the elbow and holding it with your fingers.
- Prepare a flat, clean area where you will place the padding while you work on the upholstery.
Cut off the glued part of the stuffing. Sometimes you have to cut off the packing, which was attached with glue. To do this, take a long-bladed knife, such as a serrated knife, and carefully slide it under the padding. Smoothly and extremely carefully cut off the stuffing.

Remove other fasteners. You may find that the padding is held in place with additional staples or wallpaper nails or string. Remove nails and staples as described above, and simply cut the rope.

Check the chair frame. Should it be repaired or left as is? If you can leave it as is, you can proceed to the preparation of a new upholstery. And if not, you will have to repair the frame of the chair / armchair.

Part 5

This section is summary bases for a standard modern chair/armchair frame. Here we do not consider such intricate frames that require weaving, dragging and other corrections, because. do not talk about it briefly.

First, decide whether you want to handle this yourself or entrust the matter to a professional. It can be tricky, but you can do the basic frame repairs yourself. The only thing that cannot be done is to leave everything as it is, because the weak frame will not last long and the chair will break.

If you are not in the mood for such a job, take the chair to an upholsterer or furniture maker.

Check the glued joints first. If they need to be straightened or compacted or re-glued, do it yourself. Pull the slats of the chair in different directions to test for stability or strength. If no weak points are found, there are no questions about the joints. If they move in the grooves or bend, they need to be repaired.
- Staples, screws or tongue and groove in old furniture. If you yourself do not understand, then it is better to show the damaged tongue and groove connection to a professional.
- It doesn't take much effort during testing because a pinned (keyed) joint that is well held can come loose if you pull too hard.
Check corner blocks. If you need to re-glue the joints, the corner will have to be removed first. This is a triangular part located in inner corner chair seat frame it can be glued, screwed or nailed in place. To remove it, you need:
- Drive the tip of the spacer bit into the edge of the corner block where it meets one side of the frame.
- Tap the tip of the chisel with a wooden mallet.
- As the chisel advances, use it as a lever to pull the block out of the frame. Don't push too hard, the chisel may break, if you feel the block is giving out, remove the chisel and push with your hand only.
- Do the same for the rest of the corners.
Repair connections.
- Place the chair on the workbench with the part that needs to be repaired facing up (facing you, not the workbench). Hold the chair firmly.
- Tap near the joint with a rubber mallet to loosen it a little. Don't force it.
- Remove the detached part. Clean and sand to remove any old adhesive residue.
Replace broken keys. If you find that the key is broken, it must be repaired before the joint is reassembled.
- remove the edges of the key with a chisel to a flat surface so that you can work with a drill. Then drill into the old key, being careful not to damage the chair frame.
- Squeeze some wood glue into the hole, then insert a new key into it. Tap it lightly with a hammer. Wipe off excess glue squeezed out and let dry completely.
Restore the connection. Pour wood glue into the holes for the dowels. Connect the components carefully but firmly.

Clamp the entire frame together to give proper pressure to the joints and keep them from moving while drying. Wipe off excess glue so that it does not dry out in drops on the chair frame.
- Put the corner blocks in place, wipe off excess glue again before they dry.

Part 6

Applying new upholstery fabric

Here is a simple method using old skin blanks. There are more difficult ways but for beginners this the way is fine it is better.

Measure the fabric for the new upholstery. This requires great care when you shoot. old skin so as not to tear or cut anything, because you will use the old blank as a model for the new one.

Expand the old workpiece. Everything that is chipped or sewn must be laid out to see the seams and allowances that the upholstery manufacturers made.
- Always allow enough allowance for stitching and stapling when you record measurements for new upholstery.
Iron the blanks until they are leveled. They should be as even as possible.

Place the old piece on top of the new fabric as a pattern. Then, with a chalk or invisible felt-tip pen for fabric, circle the contours, and so on for each workpiece.
Cut out new blanks. Here's what to keep in mind:
- Cut along the front side, you should see the structure of the fabric.
- For symmetrical workpieces, you can cut in half, then bend and check if the workpiece is the same with reverse side. If so, continue cutting. Or make adjustments if needed.
- Cut all objects in the same direction, along the thread line.
- Label all the cut pieces with the section names that you have determined for yourself so that they do not mix. Write down the correct indication for a particular workpiece, using the abbreviations recommended above. Add additional arrows so that you know which side the blank is for. Be careful when marking thin fabric, the marks may appear on the right side.

Want to know how easy it is to upholster the seat of your chair with your own hands without much effort?

Then this article is for you! The photo shows dining chairs, but you can upholster any chairs in a similar way.

What you need for homemade:

Construction stapler

Special glue (in this case, glue-foam was used)

Screwdriver

Step 1. First, remove the seat from the chair with your own hands with a screwdriver. (Don't forget where you will leave the screws so you can find them easily later)

Step 2: Use the chair to create a cardboard template slightly larger than the chair itself.

Step 3. Using a cardboard template, carefully cut out the batting for the seat with scissors

Step 4. Apply a generous layer of glue-foam to the top of the chair

Step 5. Then turn the chair over with the glued side down and place it on the cut out batting

Step 6 After you need to determine the size of the fabric for the upholstery of the chair. To do this, you need to measure the chair, including the batting from all sides, taking into account both the length and width.

Step 7. Cut the fabric + 4 cm to the resulting size.

Step 8. Take construction stapler, lay the fabric on a clean, flat surface and place the seat on top, batting side down.

Pull the fabric a little so that there are no ugly folds, but you should not pull too hard, this can also ruin the look and shorten the upholstery's shelf life. Secure one side of the chair with a stapler.

Step 9: Secure the Opposite Side of the Chair

Step 10 Attach the Third Party

Step 11 Attach the Fourth Side of the Chair

Step 12. The result should be such a picture.

Step 13 Use scissors to cut off excess fabric, leaving about 2 cm of fabric in the corners in order to "fold" a beautiful corner, as shown in the next step.

Step 14 Fold the corner, playing with the folds of the fabric, until you end up with a nice and neat corner. Then place 2-3 staples in this place, fasten well and do this with each corner.

Step 15 This is how all 4 pinned corners look like.

Step 16 Flip the finished seat over and voila! You have a beautiful and comfortable soft seat.

Step 17. Attach the seat to the chair with screws and a screwdriver, and that's it - homemade is ready!

Almost every family has old furniture, which was inherited, but far from always this furniture has an acceptable appearance. The upholstery is easy to replace. Then grandmother's favorite chairs and armchairs will get a second life and sparkle with new colors.

Instead of buying new chairs, you can reupholster old chairs by replacing worn seats with new ones, saving money.

For this you will need:

thick tape;
lining fabric;
upholstery fabric;
filler (batting, synthetic winterizer, coconut fiber);
furniture foam;
construction stapler;
hammer and nails.

Fitting chairs on your own is not so difficult if you follow the technology and know the assembly sequence. It happens when not only the skin, but also the internal contents require replacement. The first step is to remove the seat, pull out the old nails with a nail puller, remove the upholstery and filler. You should only have the wooden frame of the seat left.

For the upholstery of the chair, the main tool is a furniture stapler.

Now you need to attach a dense tape along the bottom (in the form of a lattice), which is used for furniture upholstery. Nail one end of the tape with 3 nails, wind the other end around wooden block and pull. On the opposite side, fasten the tape with nails, then cut it off, bend the end and secure with a stapler. The distance between the strips should be about 5 cm. Usually 2-3 ribbons are nailed to the chair seat on each side, while intertwining them together in the form of a lattice. Instead of nails, you can use a stapler - in this case, the staples are arranged in 2 rows, at a short distance from each other. For this purpose, it is better to take staples of 8 mm.

After that, they take the lining fabric and fix it with a stapler around the entire perimeter. wooden frame. Next, a layer of filler is laid. It can be batting, coconut fiber or synthetic winterizer. After that, a piece of foam rubber is cut off so that it is 2-3 cm larger than the seat. First, it is fixed with staples in the center of each side, then the sides are shot. The corners are made last, while the ends are collected in small folds. During operation, it is necessary to ensure that the foam does not warp, otherwise the upholstery will turn out to be uneven and take on a sloppy look.

To pull the chair, you must first strengthen the frame, and then remove the jet upholstery fabric.

It remains only to cover the seat with a cloth. Lay out the fabric on the table, lay the seat on top (foam rubber down), shoot 3 staples in the center of each side. Try to stretch the fabric evenly so that you do not have distortions, otherwise it will affect appearance products. Lay beautiful folds at the corners, shoot them with a stapler, cut off all unnecessary. Fold in the ends and fasten them in the same way, and then place the seat on the chair.

It is more difficult to fit chair seats with your own hands if there are springs in the upholstery. Many furniture makers do not recommend replacing them with less durable foam rubber. The first step is to carefully disassemble the contents. As a rule, the springs are already connected to each other. Then you just have to check the link for strength. If some threads are frayed over time, then they need to be replaced. Once you've nailed the ribbons and lining, place a bunch of springs over it, sewing each on the bottom (a few stitches on all sides). Fasten a dense lining fabric over the structure and sew the springs to it in the same way. This is followed by a layer of batting or synthetic winterizer, after which the seat is upholstered with a cloth and placed on a chair.

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Upholstered chair with hard seat

For this you will need:

thick furniture foam;
dense fabric;
construction stapler;
braid;
glue gun.

Fitting a chair with a hard seat is quite simple: even a person who has nothing to do with furniture business can easily handle it. First you need to cut the foam rubber, it must completely repeat the dimensions of the seat. There is no need to cut the fabric, since it is much easier to work with a cut that is 15-20 cm larger than it should be.

Foam rubber is placed on the chair seat and covered with a cloth. First they shoot (along the side) each side in the center, then on the sides. After that, corners are made: the fabric is collected in small folds and fixed with staples. It is important to ensure that the staples are located clearly along the line. Next, the fabric is cut, stepping back from the fastening by about 5-7 mm.

It remains only to glue the tape that will hide the staples. The easiest way to do this is with glue gun- work, although easy, but requiring maximum attention and accuracy. The stool is upholstered in the same way, but in this case, the upholstery fabric is shot not along the side, but from the back of the seat. Therefore, there is no need to decorate the seam with braid.

Seeing a multi-colored cover on a chair, tightly tied with beautiful ribbons, you just want to lift it up and see what condition the upholstery is in. More often than not, it turns out to be deplorable. Are people really that scared of hauling chairs with their own hands? This work is not as difficult as it seems, and the result will delight you for a long time.

Reupholstery of chairs is within the power of anyone

Preparatory stage

Here is a list of tools and materials that we will need:

Fabric (chenille, jacquard, tapestry, flock). Before going to the store, you should measure the seat of the chair, adding 15-20 centimeters on each side. This margin is needed for the hem and for the height of the upholstery.
Filler (sheet foam rubber 40 mm thick, batting, latex, synthetic winterizer). When deciding how to reupholster a chair, we select the appropriate padding. Definitely not suitable polyurethane balls, buckwheat husks and other bulk materials. Nevertheless, the seat of the chair is not as airtight as the pillow, and it experiences considerable loads. After a while, the fine filler will begin to slowly crumble. If foam rubber is chosen for the seat, its density should be 30-50 kg / m 3, otherwise during operation it will sag down to the plywood itself.
Cardboard for patterns.
PVA glue.
Furniture stapler and staples (or hammer and furniture studs).
Pliers.
Screwdrivers.
Scissors, tailor's centimeter.
Pencil, chalk for marking material, ruler.

Removing old upholstery

Fabric and foam preparation

Padding requires a precise approach. You can't do without a template here. We lay a piece of cardboard on a plywood seat and circle it with a pencil. We remove the plywood and add 2-4 cm in the drawing for allowances. Now the template can be cut out with scissors or a clerical knife.

Using the finished stencil, we cut out the foam rubber for the new upholstery using a sharp knife.

You can make a cardboard template, or copy the plywood seat directly onto the foam

If the old fabric sheathing was not used to pattern a new one, as was said earlier (well, you never know what happened, maybe oil was spilled on it), then we cut the material according to the same pattern. We circle it with chalk on the fabric and add 10 centimeters per hem on all sides. Cut out the resulting outline.

If the fabric is patterned, then do-it-yourself upholstery of chairs is a little more complicated. In this case, we purchase the material with a margin so that the picture lies in the center, without displacement, otherwise the chair will have an unpresentable appearance. We first apply the fabric to the seat, achieving the perfect arrangement of lines and patterns. We fix the result immediately with a clear markup so as not to do the same work twice.

The chair seat in some models may not be a solid plywood blank, but a frame intertwined inside with mesh or rubber. In this case, we check the condition of the wicker base. If the material has become unusable, we replace it with wide and dense rubber bands.

Pay attention to the replaced wicker base

Chair seat upholstery

Glue the foam rubber to the top side of the plywood seat. After the glue has dried, we lay the upholstery fabric inside out, on it is a seat, with foam rubber facing the fabric. We bend the supply of fabric on all sides onto plywood. Now do-it-yourself chair upholstery has ceased to be a secret for us with seven seals.

Consistently shoot the edges of the upholstery to the plywood seat with a furniture stapler

Pulling the material tightly, we successively shoot the edges of the upholstery to the plywood seat, in increments of 1-2 cm. There should be no weak spots and large folds between the fasteners. We knock out unreliable staples with a hammer. Trim off excess fabric. If the seat of the chair is square, we lay folds at the corners directed towards the center of the seat, bend the material and shoot it to the plywood.

Trim off excess fabric

Chair upholstery completed successfully

We install the constricted seat on the chair, fasten the plates and fasten all the screws in place. Now you can praise yourself for giving new life to an old chair, saving the family budget and once again confirming our reputation as a jack of all trades.