How film is welded. How to glue a polyethylene film into a monolithic canvas

Sergey, Chelyabinsk asks a question:

Good day! Interested in the question of how to solder polyethylene film? I'm afraid to spoil the material purchased for the construction of the greenhouse. Can it be glued somehow? I would be grateful for a professional answer!

The expert answers:

In fact, the question of how to solder the edges of a plastic film is of interest to many.

It is known that polyethylene film is used in construction work as a hydro-thermal insulator or part of a soundproofing system. And if you need to create a multilayer version or connect the edges of the film, then what to do in this case?

The polymer film is welded (or soldered) and not glued. This fact is explained by the fact that the surface of polyethylene is absolutely smooth.

To solder such material yourself, you can use two methods:

  • using a conventional iron;
  • use of an open flame.

If you choose the first option, that is, you decide to use an iron, then you need to remember about the melting temperature of different types of plastic film.

And these indicators can differ significantly, so there are no specific recommendations for choosing the heating mode of the iron. We'll have to use the well-known trial and error method. You will immediately understand whether the iron is hot enough or not. If the melting temperature of polyethylene is not reached, then your material will not stick together. Otherwise, you may end up with easily torn seams.

Important: before starting work, check that the iron is not very hot.

For soldering polyethylene, it is better to choose a flat wooden surface, then the seams of the multilayer material will be neat and even. It is necessary to smooth the overlapped edges of the film up to 1 cm wide. This is how soldering is carried out using an iron.

To solder polyethylene using an open flame, prepare metal bars before starting work, welding machine(for example, a burner, a blowtorch or just matches). Bars will be needed to fix the edges of the material. They will also help to remove excess heat from an open flame, which can simply burn the film. After that, we carry out a flame along a narrow strip of polyethylene (3-5 mm), which looks out from under the bars. Upon successful completion of the operation, you will get a roller that will firmly connect the layers of polyethylene material.


Recently, inexpensive devices for welding polyethylene film have appeared on the market, but their disadvantage is that they perform one operation. The author of the homemade product offers to make a multifunctional "sealer" with your own hands. The author also shows several examples of the operation of such a device.

Tools and materials:
-Soldering iron
- Two stings for a soldering iron
- Fluoroplastic tape
-Ruler
-Two screws
-PVC film
-File
-Hammer
-Sandpaper




The author purchased the fluoroplastic tape in the market where heating elements are sold. If it is impossible to purchase a tape, it can be replaced with a substrate from self-adhesive wallpaper. The author advises using a soldering iron at 40-60 watts.

Step 1: Making a Mandrel for Welding and Trimming


The first mandrel is needed to seal the edge of the bag and at the same time remove the excess film.

The principle of operation is simple. The film is pressed against the surface of the guide. A mandrel inserted into the soldering iron is guided along the guide, which seals the edge of the film and at the same time “cuts off” the excess. In this case, the angle of the mandrel is 30 degrees, and the rounding of the end does not allow damage to the template.


Step 2: Making a Mandrel for Bulkhead Welding


The second mandrel is designed for welding partitions in manufactured products and has a flat working surface. In contrast to edge welding, when welding partitions, it is necessary to place a fluoroplastic gasket between the mandrel and the film. Such a mandrel is capable of welding two films of 0.1 mm each. Experienced the author found that with a thickness of a fluoroplastic gasket of 0.08 mm, it is necessary to weld a film of 0.1 mm working surface mandrel equal to 2 mm.


Step 3: Making the Retainer
Not all soldering irons have the ability to replace the tip. The author found a way out by drilling a hole in the bottom of the soldering iron and cutting the thread for the screw.


Step 4: Making the guide
In order for the mandrel to move smoothly on the surface, the author used a ruler. On one edge of the ruler, I fixed the fluoroplastic tape with screws. The guide is ready.




The film soldering device is ready. Consider a few examples of the use of such a device. According to the author, it is best to solder at a mandrel temperature of 300-350 degrees.


Production of packaging for several types of fasteners
You can of course all the fasteners (or others small parts different functionality) to pack in one cell, but it is much more convenient if there is a separate compartment for each type.

First you need to draw, on a piece of paper, a template. The author marked the edge on the template with a dotted line, the middle is solid.


On a hard surface, with the help of adhesive tape, I fixed the template. I put two pieces of film on the template, slightly larger than the template. I installed a mandrel for partitions in the soldering iron. Pressed the film guide against the template. Since it first solders the internal compartments, the guide is installed with a fluoroplastic tape down. Conducts a mandrel, fixed in a soldering iron and heated to the desired temperature, along the internal lines of the template.


After the compartments have been formed, it changes the mandrel and seals and trims the side walls of the package.


Fills the compartments with the necessary parts.


Seams the remaining edges.


Everything is ready.


Case for remote control
For the manufacture of the cover, it is better to use shrink film.
Having measured the remote control in the thickest place, I made a template and cut the film according to the template.


I wrapped the remote control with foil and soldered the edges.


With the help of a hair dryer, I seated the film over the entire surface of the remote control.

How to keep seedlings in an unheated greenhouse during spring frosts

You have an unheated greenhouse, and here, as always, inopportunely unexpected spring frosts, what to do!? And the way out is very simple - take a few bricks, and the more porous they are, the better. Soak them thoroughly with some combustible liquid (kerosene, diesel fuel, etc.), place them on a fireproof stand (metal or concrete) near the greenhouse and light them. To supply heat, you can use a wide tin pipe, fixing it at an angle to the top of the greenhouse, to make thermal curtain from cold air. Such a heater may well function throughout the cold night.

You can also save in a greenhouse during spring frosts with the help of another simple heater. To do this, at a distance of 3-4 m from the greenhouse, you need to kindle a small fire. Then take metal pipe of the appropriate length and put one end into a smoldering fire, and bring the other into the greenhouse at a slight angle to ensure traction. At the other end of the greenhouse, you need to make an exhaust hole.

How to connect the film panels

The film is welded with a soldering iron or iron, glued with appropriate adhesives or simply sewn together with threads. For welding, the edges of the two panels of the film are laid on top of each other and slowly passed through the fluoroplastic film at the welding site with the side edge of a hot iron or the tip of a well-heated soldering iron. If you do not have fluoroplastic tape, you can use two narrow, even strips of metal. To weld the film panel, you need to clamp it between these strips and melt the edges protruding by about 1 cm with a spirit lamp or a blowtorch.

A polyethylene film can also be simply glued with Moment glue, having previously degreased the surfaces to be glued with some solvent (acetone or a solution of chromic anhydride). For polyamide film, PK-5 glue can be used. After gluing, the seam must be ironed with an iron heated to 50-60 °.

The film can also be sewn with threads through a strip of thick paper to give the seam strength. Minor damage to the film can simply be sealed with tape.

How to give a second life to film

You should not throw away the old film removed from the greenhouse, which seems to be already unusable for anything. After all, it can be used without intended purpose, for example, along the perimeter of the beds in your greenhouse, you can dig a groove about a depth of about a spade bayonet (20-25 cm) and the same width with one vertical wall. Lay a strip of old film of this width along this wall and fill the groove with earth along with the film. The result is an excellent protective barrier against rhizomatous pests and weeds. This barrier will serve you for many years, because under a layer of earth the film is protected from the rays of the sun that destroy it. The film for this, of course, must be used without damage and holes, if necessary, you can lay it in two layers. Lay the film strips in an overlap of 15-20 cm, the upper edge of the film strips should be at the level of the soil surface.

Or this option: many gardeners use boards to form the edges of the beds. But after all, the boards in wet ground quickly begin to rot and after a couple of years they become completely unusable, actually turning into humus. But if you carefully wrap these boards old film they will serve you for many more years. By the way, the stakes with which these boards are fixed can also be wrapped with an old film, its ends must be carefully bent and carefully hammered into the soil. At the bottom, the bent film will be held by the earth, and from above it can be wrapped with tape. Thus, such a "waterproof" design of the borders for the beds will serve you for many years.

In the next article we will tell you how to take care of the greenhouse.

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Greenhouse Technical Reinforced Shrink

Web width, mm

1500 (standard) 1000 2000 (reinforced)

A type

sleeve semi-sleeve cloth

Winding length, m

100 (standard) 25 (reinforced) 50 50 (reinforced)

Web thickness, microns

120 (standard) 60 80 100 150 150 200

Number of rolls, pcs

1 2 3 4 5 10 15 20 >20 (opt.)

The LENTAPAK company produces and sells various polyethylene films wholesale and retail:
- greenhouse;
- technical;
- construction.

Roll length - from 15 to 100 m, width - from 1000 to 1500 mm.

Customers are interested in how to get a solid cut large area or how to glue plastic wrap stronger. After all, thanks to the high quality characteristics- elasticity, lightness, strength - our products are used not only in everyday life, but also in many sectors of the economy:
- in construction for waterproofing foundations, basements and ceilings;
- in agrotechnical production for growing early vegetables, flowers and berries;
- in transport enterprises for cargo shelter.

I am writing to you because I cannot find in the literature the answer to the question: how to connect pvc film. Width - 140 cm. And for my greenhouse you need 3.8 m. I tried to sew on sewing machine- prey threads. I tried with tape on both sides - a very unstable connection. Maybe you know a way to make it strong and reliable. There is a film 6 meters wide, but, as it turned out, it is very unstable, it only lasts for 1 year. Sincerely, Rubinsky Yu.B., pensioner

Dear Yury Borisovich, you are not the only one who cares about this question, so we decided to answer you through the newspaper.

The efficiency of using a greenhouse for growing vegetables largely depends on the quality of the film and how it is used. To start, a few general rules, which many people know, but, for some reason, do not perform.

1. Stretching the film over metal carcass greenhouse, place some material under all the racks and crossbars with which it comes into contact. It can be any fabric (tear into strips an old sheet, a curtain and wrap the racks). You can use paper (even newspaper), but it will only last one season. The fact is that the metal is very hot in the sun, and the film "burns". A fabric or paper layer will protect it from this.

2. Do not stretch the film too tight. This reduces its service life.

3. Immediately after harvest, remove the film, wash it, dry it and fold it in a room where it will not be exposed to light. In the light, the film quickly “sprinkles” - it breaks up into separate fragments.

There are several types of film on sale that are frost-resistant. Such a film can not be removed for the winter (if the design of the greenhouse is designed to withstand the weight of snow on the film). However, frost-resistant films, as a rule, have a small width.

You can use it to cover a greenhouse as follows: cover it not with a single canvas, but with stripes, throwing them across the roof across the length of the greenhouse. At the junction, fasten the strips with twine, clothespins or special staples.

On the wooden greenhouse such a film can be nailed with small carnations, stuffing them through a narrow tape of tarpaulin or a strip of linoleum.

I want a big one!

If you need to get a single wide canvas, then there are several ways. The film is welded with an iron, soldering iron, blowtorch or a special roller, glued together with various solvents and adhesives, and also sewn with threads.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Try them out on small pieces of film and see what works best for you.

When welding the film, the edges of the two panels are superimposed on each other, covered with parchment or newspaper and slowly carried over the welding site with the edge of a heated iron, the tip of a hot soldering iron or a special roller heated to 250 C.

With another method of welding, the ends of the film are clamped between two smooth metal strips and the protruding edges (about 1 cm) are melted with a blowtorch or spirit lamp.

At a bonding temperature of 70-75 C, the film is glued with xylene and trichlorethylene, and at a temperature of about 30 C - with concentrated acetic acid (80%, glacial). Please note that special care must be taken when working with these substances.

A polyethylene film can be glued with BF-2 or BF-4 glue if the surfaces to be glued are pre-treated with a 25% solution of chromic anhydride.

The polyamide film is glued with PK-5 glue. The seam after gluing is ironed with a warm iron at a temperature of 50-60 C.

Garden stores have superglue for plastic wrap. It has no smell. In hermetically sealed packaging, its shelf life is not limited. The connection made with superglue has high strength, elasticity, transparency and water resistance. One bottle of glue with a capacity of 50 ml is enough to make a glue line 15-20 running meters long.

The adhesive contains solvents traditionally used in everyday life. It is recommended that you follow the same precautions when handling adhesive as you would when handling household chemicals.

Gluing panels and repairing damaged film coating using superglue is carried out according to the following technology. A thin layer of adhesive about 1 cm wide is applied to the outer surface of the film coating (or around the damaged area) with a brush or stick and dried in air for two hours. Then, another sheet or a cut-to-size patch of plastic film is applied to the seam (or damaged area) and carefully smoothed out with your hands.

As practice shows, not all types of glue are suitable for PVC film. In the description, they claim excellent qualities and results, but in reality the glue peels off over time, and the seam falls apart. This is how, for example, hot glue behaves.

For high-quality gluing, it is important to fulfill two requirements.

1. Ensure exceptional cleanliness of the bonding area and absolute degreasing of surfaces (with acetone).

2. Ensure secure fixation of the gluing site until the glue is completely cured (for example, between two boards with a load on the top board).

In addition to welding and gluing, the film is sewn together with threads. The edges of the individual pieces of film are overlapped. The line for stitching the film should be rare. To increase the strength of the seam, it is necessary to sew the film with a gasket made of paper or fabric strips. For these purposes, dense spunbond is also used.

To reduce condensation in the greenhouse, gardeners cover the greenhouse with a film, and the end sides are entirely made of spunbond, which is sewn to the film. Some craftsmen even sew a zipper into a spunbond, opening and closing it instead of a door.


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