A common phenomenon that can be encountered in multi-apartment or private houses is various kinds of noise coming from the heating system. Like any extra noise in communication systems, buzzing, crackling or knocking in heating pipes have their own reasons, and if they are not eliminated, along with psychological discomfort for residents, this can lead to serious problems in the heating system of a residential building.

Characteristics of noise in heating pipes

Speaking about undesirable noise effects in the pipes of the heating system, we should first mention in a few words the difference between noise and sound. If sound waves are characterized by a certain frequency and amplitude, then noise vibrations are characterized by disorder, lack of uniformity and rhythm. The noise level is measured in decibels, and its normal values ​​​​are up to 30-40 decibels in the apartment and up to 45-55 decibels - on the street. Anything that exceeds this level is a deviation from the norm and causes acoustic and psychological discomfort to a person.

The installation of communication systems in the dwelling is carried out in such a way that the noise coming from them is not felt by the residents and fits within the framework of sanitary standards. This also applies to heating pipes, and therefore the appearance of hum, cod, knocking and other audible noises in them indicates a malfunction in the heating system.

As an exception, it is worth mentioning the noise that occurs in heating communications during the first start-up of the system. Such a knock or crack in the heating pipes is not unusual - it is usually associated with pressure drops in the supply and receiving pipelines when water is first supplied to them. In the future, as all the pipelines of the system are filled with water, the noise in them weakens, and then stops completely.

Noise effects arising from malfunctions in the system can be of a different nature: hum, crackling, clicks, knocks, seething, etc. Their reasons may be associated with errors made during the installation of heating pipes, or occur during operation (read: ""). Noises of different nature have different origins, and therefore identifying the variety of noise plays an important role in establishing its causes.

Causes of buzzing and whistling in the pipes of the heating system

Whistling or hum in heating pipes are quite common, and among the main factors of their occurrence are the following:

• leaks in the heating system;
• the appearance of narrowing in the lumen of pipes that interfere with the normal circulation of water;
• the use in some apartments or premises of a residential building of pipes of a smaller diameter than in the rest of the heating communications.

If the cause of the buzzing pipes is not clear, you should first of all find out if there are leaks in the heating system. To this end, it is necessary to examine all apartments and premises in the house, but if no water leak is found in them, then also the basement, in which nodal plumbing and heating structures are usually located.

Most often, leaks are formed in the fistulas of heating pipeline structures or in valve connections. If such a leak does occur, it is usually not difficult to detect it upon careful examination: as a rule, a small trickle of water flows from the problem area and a small cloud of hot steam comes out. A jet of water can also be found at some distance from the leak, and the buzz of pipes can sometimes spread over quite considerable distances.

If a careful audit reveals that there are no leaks in the system, then another likely cause is a decrease in the patency of pipes in a certain area. The location of this defect is determined by ear by examining the entire heating system. The identified problem area must be replaced. In any case, it would be right to call a plumber to repair and restore the damaged area, since for a non-specialist this task may not be possible.

Why are clicks, crackles and knocks heard

The appearance of clicking or crackling in the pipes of the heating system usually indicates that foreign solid particles have appeared inside the communications. The impact of such small particles on the pipe walls is precisely the direct cause of such noise.

As a rule, heating pipes knock and click when the following problems occur:

• wear of some key elements of the system;
• valve valve malfunctions;
• expansion of metal heating pipes under the influence of heat.

In most cases, knocking in the heating pipes of a private house or apartment building can be eliminated by simply draining the clogged water from the heating system and replacing it with clean water. If such flushing does not lead to the elimination of noise, then the faulty sections of the system must be replaced. In particular, valve valves are subject to inspection, problems with which are often the cause of such noise.

Another reason why it knocks in the heating pipes may be the thermal expansion of the metal structures of the pipelines. Usually in this case, crackling and knocking are quiet and are periodic. Expansion of pipes can lead to small movements and loosening of some structural elements, which leads to the occurrence of noise of this kind. To solve this problem, it is necessary to inspect the fixing points of various parts and elements, and, if necessary, re-fasten them.

Finally, another reason that can lead to clicks and knocks in heating pipes is the so-called water hammer. It occurs when the water circulating in the pipes is instantly shut off by closing a valve, valve or faucet. Since the compressibility of water is practically zero, and the stop of the water jet cannot occur immediately, for a short time at the point of abrupt closing of the tap, the pressure can jump by tens of atmospheres. This can lead to malfunction of valves, valves, threaded connections with the occurrence of clicks or crackling, and even to the failure of some parts. Therefore, in order to avoid this, one should not abruptly shut off the flow of fluid circulating in the heating system.

Boiling water in heating pipes and batteries

Sometimes you have to deal with such a problem as seething or gurgling of water inside heating communications. This noise is caused by the appearance of air bubbles inside the water. In addition to noise effects, another undesirable consequence of such a problem is a decrease in the temperature of the coolant and the efficiency of the system as a whole.

If seething or gurgling noises occur, the system should be checked for slopes and distortions, in which a layer of air can form and stagnate in them. In some cases, to remove air bubbles from the heating system, special air vent valves are installed in the structure on the upper floors. In other cases, correction of distortions and slopes may be required, which requires overlapping and stopping the heating operation throughout the house.

Other sources of noise in the heating system

In addition to the reasons mentioned above, the following factors can be sources of various noises in heating communications:

• sudden pressure surges for one reason or another;
• non-compliance of the coolant with technological standards;
• noise coming from the pumps in the boiler room.

To prevent sudden pressure drops in the heating systems of private or apartment buildings, it is recommended to install special regulatory devices. Sometimes the pumps located in the boiler room can also be the cause of noise, the operation of which can lead to the occurrence of resonance in the water jet elevator of the heating system. In some cases, the resulting buzz or crackling can be eliminated by installing a valve between the elevator and the pipe.

To prevent noise in the heating pipes, it is recommended to avoid the use of threaded valves, and instead install ball valves that close the water flow by turning 90 °. They are much more reliable for such systems, and their operation is almost not affected by coolant flows or other mechanical factors inside the structure.

Boiler equipment used for arranging heating systems can operate on various types of gaseous, liquid or solid fuels, or also on electricity. However, the operation of boilers of any type may be accompanied by certain side processes that often affect the heating system and may cause noise in it.

In particular, wood or coal solid fuels can clog the chimney with reduced draft. The operation of boiler houses on liquid diesel fuel may be accompanied by its incomplete combustion and the accumulation of soot. All this often leads to noise and buzz in heating communications, and requires measures to eliminate these problems.

Noises may also occur due to malfunctions in the operation of pumps, valves or other devices and mechanisms located in the boiler room or in the basement. The solution to the problem in such situations is to repair the faulty elements or replace them.

In general, any specific situation with the occurrence of noise in the heating system requires an individual approach, and there cannot be universal methods here. In some cases, identifying and eliminating faults on your own can be very difficult, and in this situation, the only way out of the situation is to contact qualified specialists.

Why are heating pipes knocking: who is to blame and what to do?

Noise from the battery interferes with sleep?

Let's try to figure out why the heating pipes are noisy and how to eliminate the causes of this noise.

The case when, during normal operation of the system, noise occurs in the heating pipes is not something exceptional; almost everyone has probably encountered a knock or noise in the risers.

Let's try to analyze the most common causes of various kinds of noise.

The risers are buzzing

Most often, residents of apartment buildings complain about a uniform hum or whistle. So why are the heating pipes buzzing?

There are only two main reasons for such noise: a leak in the heating system or a narrowing that prevents circulation, through which a large volume of water passes with difficulty.

Leaks and working discharges

Let's use the most reliable tool: logic. If there is a leak somewhere in the heating system at a short distance from the apartment, then a large amount of hot water is pouring into one of the adjacent rooms.

It's pretty hard not to notice. So, we have to raid the neighbors. The waterproofing of the floors, alas, does not protect from leaks from the upper floors, so if there is at least half of the neighbors in the riser at home, the search will not be long.

However, suppose that all neighbors have dry floors; however, the nerve-wracking whistle continues.

Well, we take a flashlight - and into the basement.

If we are met by clouds of steam, the investigation can be considered complete: it remains only to find the place of the leak and eliminate the leak, whether it is an open bleeder valve on the riser or a fistula in the bed (horizontal heating pipe).

The fistula, by the way, may well hide under thick thermal insulation: all that we see in this case is a stream of hot water running to the ground. Well, we remove the thermal insulation and look for a leak ...

The place where water under pressure escapes into the atmosphere, by the way, does not have to be located near the apartment in which they complain about noise: sounds travel a long distance through pipes.

Of course, noise is more audible in nearby rooms, but do not forget that people react very differently to unfamiliar sounds: someone will ignore, and someone will suffer night after night in fruitless attempts to fall asleep.

Do not be too lazy to reach the elevator node; it is quite possible that for some reason a vent is open there, draining water from the heating system into the sewer.

The operation of the elevator assembly “to discharge” is usually used only when the heating system is started for a very short period of time, however, a negligent locksmith, who was plagued by complaints about cold batteries by residents, may well, instead of coordinating with a higher organization through official channels, change the diameter of the elevator nozzle , simply let the water flow from the supply pipe directly into the sewer.

However, we walked around the neighbors, studied the basement, but there are no leaks, and the noise continues. We are making the following attempt to understand why the heating pipes are noisy.

Reduced patency of pipes

The next step will be very difficult: you need to find the source of the noise by ear, just walking past the pipes and listening for where it gets stronger. By finding its approximate location, we can understand what exactly happened.

In multi-apartment buildings, the source of noise can be primarily elevator units and beds - places where the water flow is fast enough so that its deceleration at the narrowing is amenable to acoustic detection.

In the heating riser, the narrowing will simply lead to a significantly lower temperature of the batteries compared to the neighbors; too low pressure difference between supply and return (in case of bottom filling) risers or between top and bottom (in case of top filling heating system) of one riser.

First of all, half-closed valves or valves with a damaged valve can prevent the flow of water (this, of course, applies to old, screw valves); a piece of slag or scale, standing somewhere across the pipe, can also cause noise in the pipe.

If in the first case you can simply open the valve to the end or repair / replace it (of course, this will require at least a partial reset of the heating system), then in the second case, in order for the cleaning of the heating pipes to be successful, you may need the help of a welder, and in severe frosts and subsequent heating of frozen risers; in regions with a harsh climate, such work is best left until spring.

However, sometimes it helps to stop the heating with any shut-off valves located along the water course higher than the problem area, and the opening of any discharge immediately after the place where the water is blocked: the unfortunate pebble can endure the countercurrent.

A little advice that will be useful at the design stage in any private or apartment building: when it comes to purchasing valves, forget about the existence of screw valves and small diameter gate valves. At all. Modern ball valves that shut off water by turning the handle ninety degrees are incredibly practical, more convenient and create much less problems during operation.

Among other things, they do not have those same narrowings under the valve, where, as a rule, ALL garbage flying through the pipes collects, sooner or later blocking the flow of water, regardless of the position of the valve. In addition, for a ball valve it does not matter how it is oriented relative to the water flow: you can forget about the problem of valve separation in case of improper installation.

Not quite a typical example, but it is probably better to mention it as part of an exchange of experience. In the author's practice, there was a case when the residents of the entrance began to complain: the heating pipes were noisy.

The reason for the continuous noise in the heating riser was the continuous flushing of the battery for several days by the residents. They sincerely believed that it would be warmer for them. If a materialized antonym to the word "economy" is possible, then the owner of this apartment seriously claims its role.

It is worth making one more lyrical digression. The above statement that there cannot be a source of noise inside the heating riser applies exclusively to apartment buildings with permanent heating distribution.

Where there is a so-called barrack wiring - where all the batteries on the floor are combined into a ring, and even made from a great mind not the way it should be - when the batteries crash parallel to the main pipe, but in such a way that each battery breaks the ring - any piece of slag on at the entrance of the liner to the radiator or at any other narrowing, it can sing a song of love to the owners day and night.

Note!

In the case of private houses, the layout of heating appliances, which implies the ability to disrupt the ALL water flow in the heating system with one interference, is aggravated by the fact that private owners' boilers are often equipped with a circulation pump that creates a FAST water flow. At any narrowing, it will make a very noticeable noise.

Batteries gurgling

The next reason for noise in is the air. If something continuously boils and gurgles in the battery, as in the stomach of a sick cow, it is, dear. Sound insulation of heating pipes, even if it were carried out, would not give anything - the sound will be heard through the walls of the radiator.

Are you on the top floor of a house with a bottom outlet (when both the supply and return pipes of the heating system are located in the basement)? Then look for a Mayevsky crane on a radiator or a jumper between adjacent rooms - a device that helps to bleed air.

In all other cases, it is worth looking for a counterslope (of course, if the heating system works normally in all other respects, except for noise). A radiator hanging skewed or a section of the connection to it, which is lower at the riser than near the battery itself - this is what you have to fix, and most likely in the summer - it is hardly possible to stop the heating system in winter for a long time, especially in the harsh climate of Siberia or the Far East would be a good idea.

Batteries are knocking

Another common case is when the heating pipes begin to make not a uniform noise or hum, but periodic clicks, as if someone is hitting the battery with a hammer with tedious constancy. Barabashka? Aliens?

Cracking in heating pipes can be identified by grateful listeners sometimes in a very peculiar way. The author met with a venerable old woman who, in the described case, wrote letters to some government agencies, assuring her that her upstairs neighbors were printing money at night.

So all the same - why do the heating pipes click?

In fact, there are only three typical reasons for such immoral behavior of pipes and batteries:

• Debris in the radiator or riser,
• Broken valve valve
• Thermal expansion coupled with riser or radiator temperature instability.

Debris in the radiator or riser

A variety of pieces of slag that have fallen into the heater and are now spinning in a slow stream of water, periodically tapping on the walls, can be tried to be removed by ordinary washing.

We connected the flushing hose, opened the flushing tap (if, of course, there is one) - and forward. If you want to know how the heating pipes are flushed, videos are easy to find on the Internet.

However, be prepared for an emergency shutdown of the heating riser: cases when the notorious piece of scale jammed the flusher, making it impossible to close, any plumber is ready to list dozens of you.

In the worst case, you will have to remove the heater (after the end of the season, of course) and disassemble it: in the case of a cast-iron or aluminum radiator, unscrew the plugs, in the case of a register - alas, open it with welding.

Broken valve valve

A torn off valve is a typical problem for all types of screw valves, don’t be mentioned by nightfall. When installed “against wool”, when the water flow does not flow from below the valve, but from above, the inevitable erosion of the valve sooner or later leads to the inevitable final: the valve is completely or partially torn off.

It can completely block the flow of water, leaving a dozen or other apartments without heat, or, with a slight misalignment, it can tumble in the jet, creating turbulence, and periodically block the water flow for a moment, creating a water hammer (an instantaneous stop of water - it is practically incompressible, and the pressure jumps many times in a fraction of a second).

Here are the heating pipes. These periodic heavy blows will uncomplicatedly and sincerely rejoice at the whole entrance, and, possibly, more than one.

This is the case when a short-term shutdown of the heating system of the house to replace the valve is fully justified. An hour of torment with replacement and restart is much more pleasant than warming up and restoring risers and radiators thawed into the trash in case one night the valve finds the same cherished position and completely blocks the flow of water.

Thermal expansion coupled with riser or radiator temperature instability

Finally, the third scenario: a periodic soft knock in the heating pipes or in the battery. Quietly, like a gnome with a hammer. Annoying, like a toothache. The interval is from ten seconds to several minutes. Do you still remember the school physics course? When heated, any body slightly expands. When cooled, it cools down.

If we are talking about a sufficiently long object (for example, a heating riser fixed on one side in a sleeve welded to the bracket; the bracket, in turn, is tightly fixed to the wall), then its loose end will move with any significant temperature change in space by fractions, and sometimes even by several millimeters.

If at the same time it is tightly pressed against something, a creak can be heard. Only because of the extremely slow expansion - compression, this creak will be perceived by the ear as rare clicks in the heating pipes.

The problem, to be honest, is more typical for hot water supply systems - simply because the temperature of the supply is less constant there: they drained the water - it heated up, there was no water intake - it cooled down. However, cases when a section of the heating system noticeably changes its temperature several times a day are also not something far-fetched.

A typical example is a window that opens for ventilation directly above an aluminum radiator hung on metal pins. Opened - a little cooled down, closed - warmed up again.

Alas, there is only one method of dealing with the phenomenon: to clearly localize the source of noise, and then eliminate the problem in any way possible. Sometimes for this you only have to put a fluoroplastic plate under the notorious radiator on a steel mount, and sometimes you need to break through the ceiling around the heating riser, that is, consider making it small and filling the cavity with mounting foam, followed by re-plastering the ceiling and sealing the floor.

Such a phenomenon as knocking in heating pipes can actually manifest itself in different ways. It may be, in fact, a knock, or it may be crackling, seething, clicks. In any case, the consequences of knocking can be much more serious than the effect on the nerves. If proper measures are not taken in time to eliminate the knock, then in the end you can get a very serious emergency.

But, before proceeding with the elimination of extraneous sounds, you need to determine what kind they are. It is based on the nature of the noise that it is necessary to look for a way out.

If noises, whistles and hums are heard

These kinds of sounds are far from uncommon in the first place in an apartment building. As a rule, in a single-family dwelling, this is much less common.

The gurgling of water in the pipes, hum, knocks and extraneous noise in the heating system indicate a malfunction of the system or improper installation.

There may be several reasons for this phenomenon:

• There is a narrowing in the system that prevents water from circulating evenly through the pipes;
• There may be a communication leak;
• Or these sounds can be caused by using pipes of a smaller diameter than necessary.

First of all, it is necessary to check the communication for leakage. If there are no leaks in the neighbors, then the pipes are most likely noisy in the basement. It is there that the main nodes of plumbing and heating systems are concentrated.
If there is a place to be, then it can be detected by the rising stream of steam. In most cases, this is caused by the formation of holes in the communication wiring. They can form under a layer of thermal insulation, in valves. By the way, the leak is not always located in the immediate vicinity of the noise source. Indeed, in metal pipes, the rumble spreads over very considerable distances.
To fix the problem, you need not hesitate to call the plumbing team.
If no leaks were found, then it is quite possible that the reason lies in the deterioration of the patency inside the pipe. It will be necessary to listen in which areas the noise is observed. Most likely, it is these sections that will need to be replaced.

A slight noise in the pipes, a hum is heard, then this is not such a critical situation as when knocking occurs. If noise suddenly appears, you must immediately call the plumbing team.

Although it is possible that the deterioration in the capacity of the pipe is caused by lime deposits. Then a reasonable solution would be to call a specialized team that can remove scale and break through the system from congestion.

If heating pipes in a private house knock and crack

In a private house, extraneous sounds can be caused by faulty valves or even pipe damage. But crackling in the pipes can mean the presence of foreign solid particles inside the pipe. In addition, crackling may refer to:

• Premature wear of some components of the heating system;
• Destruction of valve valve elements;
• The process of expanding metal pipes.

If the clicks are too loud, they turn into a real crack when the system warms up, then first of all it can be advised in this case to drain all the water from the system. This will also remove solid pieces of debris. If, in this case, the sounds are not removed, most likely, the heating radiator needs to be replaced.
If dwellings are present in the heating circuit, then they can provoke clicks. It's because they were installed incorrectly. Water flows in this case will irradiate them. Over time, this phenomenon will force the valves to open. In any case, the valve must be replaced. If this is not done, then it can temporarily block the circulation of water, and when opened, there is a risk of water hammer.

Noise and crackling can cause premature wear of some components of the heating system.

Knocks in the pipes and in the batteries of the system can also be provoked by the thermal expansion of the metal. In this case, a temperature drop is observed, as a result, loose parts of the system will be subject to microscopic movements relative to each other. Such shifts are imperceptible to the eye, but will sometimes emit very loud knocks.
The solution is to check the thermal insulation of the pipeline and inspect all pipe attachment points. Fastening must be carried out at uniform small intervals. In this case, they should be fixed as firmly as possible.

What to do if water boils in the batteries

Often you can hear sounds such as gurgling water, up to intense seething. As a rule, this is due to the presence of so-called air jams. They are looking for a way out - as a result of which the water in the system can boil. Moreover, this not only leads to discomfort, but also to the fact that the efficiency of the coolant decreases, since, as you know, the thermal conductivity of air is worse than water.
In order to eliminate air congestion, special taps are often installed at the upper levels of the heating system, through which excess air is released.

Mayevsky crane - a device for releasing air from central water heating radiators, opened with a special key or screwdriver.

Pipe hum due to water hammer

The cause of clicks or knocks may be such a phenomenon as. The reason for it is that water under the action of inertia forces cannot instantly stop in the pipe. If there is a temporary suspension of water circulation in the system (for a variety of reasons), then the water, sharply bumping into an obstacle, hits the inside of the pipe. This is called water hammer. You can control the flow of water depending on the temperature using special regulators.

Note! Water hammer and water noise in the heating pipe occur at the moment when the water is completely blocked. After all, liquids are practically incompressible, therefore, inertia cannot be extinguished instantly. At the point where the water flow stops, the pressure can reach tens of atmospheres. In turn, this can be fraught not only with unpleasant noises, but also with the destruction of system connections, tearing out valves and even rupture of batteries.

Water hammer can occur anywhere in the system. Including even the underfloor heating system. Accordingly, in this case, the knock will be heard under the floor. The length of the pipeline can affect the strength of the water hammer. In the underfloor heating system, it is the most dangerous, since here the pipes are folded into a very large length. Water hammer is also dangerous if a thermostat is installed at the outlet of the heating system. Structurally, it can withstand pressure up to 4 atmospheres, in this case, knocking is not observed.

This figure shows the water pressure in the system and the cause of water hammer.

Other sources of noise in heating pipes

As you can see, the main cause of noise in the heating system is an installation error. But there are a few others too:

• The presence of a large pressure drop;
• The coolant does not meet the proper technical conditions of operation;
• The pump in the boiler room at home may also just sound loud;
• If the boilers run on diesel fuel, then over time soot can accumulate in them. As a result, the patency of communications worsens - and an unpleasant noise is heard.

Even at the stage of drafting a heating system in private housing, it is necessary to exclude screw valves and small valves. It is better to use ball valves instead. They have no constriction under the valves, debris will not accumulate there.

Screw valve - a valve for regulating the output of liquids.

If a poor-quality pump is used during the operation of the heating system, it can also make extraneous sounds that will be transmitted through the pipes. But even a high-quality pump can fail over time. In this case, the solution is obvious: repair or replace the pump altogether.

According to experts

Vladimir Savotkin, heating equipment installer: Recently, modern radiators have become especially popular. They are often mounted in old heating systems. But, since the material of old pipes and new radiators has different physical properties, including the coefficient of expansion, the difference in the change in the size of the heating elements can cause a sometimes very loud crack in the apartment.

Konstantin Ustinovich Petrov, specialist in the installation of radiator heating systems: pipes in the heating system are often noisy during start-up. At this time, pressure drops are observed in the return and supply pipelines, which may exceed the normalized values. That is why water makes noise in the heating pipes. As the houses are connected to the centralized heating system, the clicks become weaker over time and disappear completely. This is normal and should not be feared.

The results of what has been said

Sound phenomena such as crackling, noises and water seething are not so rare during the operation of heating systems. However, this does not mean that you have to put up with it. On the contrary, the slightest extraneous sounds should alert.
Methods for eliminating noise will depend on the cause found. If it is not possible to independently establish the cause of a knock or other noise, then it is better to call a team of specialists, which will not only determine its true source, but also eliminate the cause.
If timely measures are not taken to eliminate noise, the consequences can be quite deplorable - up to serious accidents.

It happens that after installation, heaters and radiators crack and click. What is the cause of extraneous noise during operation?

Causes of noise in the heating radiator

The cause of knocking and noise in batteries is mainly due to violations made during installation. The most common problems are:

• Different diameter of the radiator inlet and piping. Modern systems use control valves, a Mayevsky crane, a bypass, etc. All pipes and shut-off valves must have the same internal section.
• No differential pressure regulator. A special washer is installed in front of the regulator nozzle in the basement of an apartment building, designed to stabilize the pressure. If there is no washer, the coolant makes noise in the batteries when the pressure in the pipeline reaches more than 1.5 bar.
• Heating batteries crackle due to incorrect connection of the thermal valve or poor mounting on the brackets. You can fix the problem by replacing the temperature controller. Water squeezes the valve in the thermostat, which leads to extraneous noise. Cod is also caused by insufficient fixation on the brackets. When heated, the metal from which the radiators are made expands, which leads to noise.
• Air locks - if water gurgles in the radiator, this indicates the presence of air in the system. When the water passes the location of the cork, a sound is made similar to the murmur of a stream. A similar problem is detected if the batteries gurgle when the heating is turned on. The situation is corrected with the help of Mayevsky's crane. By bleeding air from the heating system, you can achieve silent operation.
• Leak in the system. Whistling and buzzing indicates a lack of tightness in the heating system or an excessive narrowing of the pipeline. Moreover, the heating battery is buzzing due to the "fistula" in the riser, not only in the apartment itself, but also in the basement. If a visual inspection does not reveal a break, house management plumbers are called in to look for a pipe break in the basement.

These are the most common causes of noise during heating operation. To determine what became the catalyst for violations, the location and localization of knocking, gurgling or other sounds should be established. After that, identify errors in the installation.

Eliminating noise in radiators is much more difficult than preventing their occurrence. Therefore, it is recommended that the installation of the system be carried out by a qualified installation team.

Why does the heater crackle during operation

The causes of noise in electric heaters, unlike radiators connected to a liquid heating system, are rarely associated with installation errors. The main cause of clicks, crackles and other sounds are violations of operation by the owners themselves.

• Oil radiator– if clicks are heard when the heater is turned on, the problem is related to the ingress of moisture into the oil. This happens for several reasons. During transportation, the heater was turned upside down. They transported the heater in the winter, and then immediately plugged it into the network, etc. Detailed instructions on how to avoid unpleasant noise can be found in the heater manual.
• Fan heater and convector– Noises indicate accumulated dust. The heating process is associated with the use of an incandescent filament. The settled dust causes unpleasant clicks during operation, usually accompanied by a burning smell.

Qualified specialists should eliminate the causes of crackling and clicks in radiators and electric heaters. Regarding the malfunction of the electrical equipment, you should contact the service center. A competent plumber can eliminate violations due to which batteries knock, make noise, creak during heating.

Almost every one of us has ever encountered a situation where heating pipes knock. Consider the most common and frequently occurring causes of knocking in heating pipes.

Hum or whistle in the pipes: identify the causes

Residents of apartments, especially apartment buildings, complain about the hum or whistle in the batteries quite often. This kind of noise occurs either due to a leak in the communication, or due to a narrowing that prevents the proper circulation of water.

In the event of a water leak, the first step is to visually check all areas of the house. If everything is in order with the neighbors in the riser, then you need to go down to the basement. The first sign of a leak in the basement will be steam. If available, check the entire room. Common leak points are valves or vents in horizontal wiring elements.

Often the latter can be hidden under a layer of thermal insulation. It is also necessary to check the elevator assembly, where a vent can be opened, which drains water from the heating system into the sewer. In addition, we note that the place of leakage is not always located in the immediate vicinity of the source of noise - the sound through the pipes propagates over long distances.

If a visual inspection was carried out, no leaks were found, but you still have heating pipes knocking, it is necessary to check the entire heating circuit for a decrease in pipe patency. The most common sources of noise in multi-apartment buildings are elevator nodes and beds, where slowing down the flow of water leads to noise. Quite often, problem areas are identified by ear when walking around the premises.

Half-closed valves, as well as screw valves with valve defects, can create an obstacle to the flow of water. In addition to valves, crackling in heating pipes can be associated with pieces of slag or scale in the pipeline. In the first case, it is necessary to check the functionality of the valves, if necessary, change them, and in the second, to clean the system, which sometimes requires additional help from the welder.

In severe frosts, it is better to postpone such work until the spring. Nowadays, when designing a heating circuit, it is better to use ball valves that block the flow of the coolant when rotated 90 degrees, and you can forever forget about the valve coming off if it is installed incorrectly.

Bubbling in the radiator

Air in pipes is often the cause of continuous seething or gurgling in radiators. It is possible to bleed the air from the heating system thanks to the Mayevsky tap, which can be located either on the radiator or directly on the pipeline connecting adjacent rooms (in houses with bottom bottling). In other cases, it is necessary to check the communications for the presence of a counterslope.

Skewed radiator or part of the wiring to it can contribute to air stagnation. In the latter case, it is necessary to completely block all communication, which is recommended to be done in the spring-summer season.

Knocking in heaters

A fairly common problem is periodic clicks. The occurrence of this type of noise can be triggered by debris in the riser or radiator, a torn off valve valve, or due to thermal expansion of the riser or battery against the background of temperature instability. If it is garbage, then pieces of slag in the heating rotate in the stream of water, tapping on the walls.

To eliminate unpleasant sounds, it is necessary to flush the pipeline. If draining the water did not bring the desired result, then after the end of the heating season, it is necessary to dismantle and disassemble the radiator or change it.

If the house has a heating circuit with screw valves and pipes click, then first of all it is necessary to check the valve valves. If installed incorrectly, the flow of water can erode the valve, which sooner or later partially or completely opens. As a result, the flow of water can periodically overlap for a moment, creating a water hammer.

Clicks and bumps in the pipeline can be associated with the latter. In this case, turn off the coolant supply for a short time and replace the faulty valve.

In the event of thermal expansion, a periodic soft knock will be heard. This effect occurs due to temperature changes - when it rises, any object expands, and when it decreases, it narrows. In our case, such a physical effect can provoke a slight movement in space (literally up to several millimeters) of the unfixed end of the heating system.

If the moving part of the pipeline is tightly pressed against something, then you can hear a creak, and in some cases crack or clicks. When solving this problem, check the thermal insulation of the pipeline, as well as inspect the battery attachment points, and, if necessary, lay fluoroplastic gaskets.