In this article I will tell you how and from what to make a good oblique knife (jamb knife) with your own hands. Such a knife is used for wood carving, for working with leather or other thin sheet materials.

It is known that the quality of a knife is determined by the quality of its blade. And the quality of the blade, respectively, is the steel from which it is made. But where can a home craftsman get high-quality steel, solid, well-holding sharpening ?! And the answer is simple - you just need to look around.

Option one Jamb knife from a construction nail-dowel ... Just excellent steel with hardness and ductility (of course, because they are hammered into concrete and do not break at the same time).

We drive a dowel into the end of the workpiece under the handle (a piece of a shovel handle about 12-25 cm long is perfect).

On an emery or a grinder's scraping disc, grind off the hat from the sides and at an angle of 30-45 degrees to make a blade. Using a knife, a file of sanding paper, cut out the handle under the arm.

Due to the fact that the blade is rather narrow, it is better to use it as a knife for carving wood, although there is also another use for such a blade.

Or an option for finer work with a pen that you can hold like a writing pen

Option two A jamb knife from a cloth from a hacksaw for metal. More precisely, a piece of it, of which there will be a huge amount in any workshop.

The disadvantages of knives made from a hacksaw blade include fragility in the transverse direction (a hardened blade breaks quite easily under the wrong load), in addition, the process of making a knife is more laborious. But the blade turns out to be wider, which means more functional than a dowel knife.

We sharpen the canvas at an angle of 60 degrees. Chamfering can be done both on both sides and on one side. A jamb knife with one-sided sharpening, by the way, is well suited for.

The handle can be made in two versions - simple and fast, as well as beautiful, convenient, but complex. Simple and quick - just wrap a thick layer of electrical tape around the handle - not very nice, but cheap and cheerful. And it's not a pity to break.

The second option is a wooden handle. Made of two halves. You need to take either two planed planks well adjacent to each other, or carefully split one (but only evenly). In one of the blanks, a groove for the blade is cut out with a chisel or simply with a knife, they are coated with glue, folded together and fixed (with clamps, you can wrap it tightly with a rope).

In the example shown in the photo, because the planks were far from perfect and the glue joint was not very strong, I riveted them with three rivets made of aluminum wire - the third one is not visible in the photo - it is not through and goes through a hole in the canvas.

Sculptural composition, work of Novoselov A.V.

To carry out all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, you need a special tool.

Carving tools can be distinguished as main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor, which the master can make himself, are also widely used.

All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily carry out carving work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, lightweight and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the tree is cut like "oil", it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the job. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp instrument, the drawing is clean, accurate, beautiful. By the finished product, you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also with what and how he performed the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from the Bogorodsk sculptural carving.

Bogorodsky knife

Jamb knife(angle of sharpening of chamfers 20 °, bevel angle 35 0; 45 °; 60 °), used for flat, flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork carving.

Jamb knife

Cutter knife- used as an auxiliary tool for various types of thread.

Cutter knife

Straight chisels(sharpening angle 18-20 °); used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

Chisel straight

Semicircular chisels- the main tool used to perform all types of wood carving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R = H), steep (R˂H).

Semi-round chisels

Sameski - cranberries These are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the work surface with the handle. There is cranberry-flat chisel, cranberry-corner. cranberry-semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Tseraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. Their web width is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the cross-sections of which correspond to the profile of the instrument.

Tserazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismuses.(angle between cutting edges 50-70 °). They are used for sampling a V-shaped groove, used for making contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Shtikhel. The graders always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to select various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Shtikhel

Klepiki. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet sword and rivet leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and volumetric threads for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik-sword, klepik-leaf

Chisel-marigold. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. It resembles a fingernail. The purpose of the marigolds is stripping in hard-to-reach places and making staple thread elements.

Chisel-marigold

Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spoons are needed to remove a large volume of material in recesses and to process the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.

Spooners

Punches and embossings- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for embossing backgrounds in flat-relief and relief carvings.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbonaceous (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate asterisks.

2-Alloyed (ХВ5; Х12; Ч12М), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Correct sharpening of the tool is of great importance for making quality woodcarving.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. You can chamfer with an electric grinder (see fig.), A hand-powered grinder, or manually with an abrasive bar.

Electric grinder for sharpening and dressing the tool: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, dressing and polishing the tool: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device ;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the sharpening angle; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - tool for dressing and polishing (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber discs with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; c - on the corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

Chisel position when sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and flat; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Maintain the specified angle of sharpening;

Maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of sticking;

Blurring of the tool is not allowed (prevent from periodic wetting of the tool in water).

2. Edit. Tool dressing is understood as improving the cleanliness of the blade sharpening, deburring, and sharpening. To edit the tool, use microcorundum donkeys (Fig.), Skins, leather.

Jamb sharpening: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - the position of the hands during work;

For semicircular incisors, a straightening board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Straightening boards and belts

1 - a board with a set of profile bars and donuts;

2 - straightening board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas strap for straightening.

Before straightening, GOI paste is rubbed into the straightening board. The inner surface of the semicircular incisors is ruled with round wooden rods wrapped with fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the tool on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool should have a given angle of sharpness, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M .: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forestry engineering. un-t. 2012.

The wood carver's tool is everything! The success of all work depends on its quality and sharpening. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to work exclusively with their own knives. Moreover, making a chisel or the same cutter yourself will not be difficult for an experienced person. The main thing is to have the right materials at hand.

My toolbox contains many chisels, cutters, knives, and other tools needed for wood carving. And I must say that most of them are handmade, that is, made by me personally. They are all distinguished by one feature - a special shape of the arm. I always do it with finger tips so that it is comfortable to hold the knife in my hand and to work conveniently.

We will need:

• leg from an old arm chair
• metal cutter for cutting part
• cardboard for templates
• epoxy resin

Note: the shape of the leg can be either rectangular (which I use) or round.

Tools:

• hacksaw
• chisels straight and semicircular
• Bulgarian
• vice
• drill

Making a template

Before starting work with the material, I always prepare a template. I advise you to follow my example.

We will make it from thick cardboard. The shape of both the handle and the cutting part can be chosen arbitrarily. The main thing is that it is comfortable for you.

For the handle, I am personally going to make this one, as shown in photo # 2. As for the cutting part, I intend to make the "heel" of the future knife obliquely, so that in the future it can be used to cut grooves and slots.

We translate the templates into wood and metal and cut them out.

If you have already noticed, I make two instruments at the same time.

Cut out the cutting part

We place the cutter in a vice and use the grinder to cut out the part we need. We work carefully, not forgetting about safety rules.

Cooking the handle

Cut out the shape of the handle with a hacksaw and process the wood. We make cutting movements in a circle and under the arm.

When the handle is almost ready, we start sanding. We carry out this process with sandpaper until the surface of the wood becomes smooth.

Then you need to drill a hole into which the metal part of the knife will be inserted. We use a drill for this. Moreover, as a result, the hole should be slightly larger than the tail of the knife.

We collect the knife

Now you need to secure the cutting head and the handle. We insert a metal blank into the hole of the handle and fill it with epoxy resin (photo # 4).

You can buy it in the store and can easily prepare it yourself (detailed instructions are attached to the set). After 1-3 hours, the mixture will set, and the joint knife will be practically ready. If you want to shorten this waiting time, add some hardener to the resin.

And the last steps - before use, the knife handle needs to be varnished (I choose nitro varnish for this purpose), and the cutting edge should be sharpened. That's it: our tool is ready to go.

Alexander Tsaregorodtsev, Tomsk. Photo by the author

The work of the master is afraid, but no matter what the golden hands are, and in some cases it is difficult to do without tools. Similarly, in wood carving, it is difficult to get the desired result without a good, convenient tool. Nowadays, you can buy everything, including the best tool, but there is a small snag - finance (not everyone has the opportunity to buy) I suggest making a jamb knife with your own hands.

To make a do-it-yourself jamb knife you need:
- a small block of wood, personally, for this purpose I used a wooden leg from an old chair (this will be the handle for a knife)
- milling cutter;
- pencil and sheet of paper;
- epoxy.

Tools:
- saw for wood (hacksaw);
- several chisels and a semicircular and flat profile;
- grinder;
- vice;
- electric drill.

Making a jamb knife with your own hands step by step

Step 1
Initially, we will make a template according to which we will make a jamb knife. It is best to use cardboard to make the template. We make the shape of the handle and the main cutting part of the knife as needed, depending on the needs, what exactly you will do with this knife and how it will be convenient for you. If you want, you can use a template from a photo. With this shape of the cutting part, it will be convenient for you to cut notches and grooves.

Step 2
The template is ready, let's start cutting out the handle and blade of the knife.
We cut out the wooden handle with a hacksaw, and cut out the blade with a grinder according to the template from the old cutter, after holding it tightly beforehand. Remember to stick to safety rules.

After the handle is cut out, it must be properly sanded. For convenience, it is best to make the shape of the handle along the lice with smoothly passing bends for the fingers.

Step 3
All elements of the knife must be connected into a single whole, therefore, using an electric drill, we make a hole in the handle. Making it slightly larger than the fixing part.

Step 4
We attach the knife blade to the wooden handle. There is nothing complicated about this, you just need to insert the blade into the hole on the handle, using epoxy resin to fix it. Then we leave the knife in a warm place for a while so that the resin hardens properly.

Step 5
Cover the handle with oil, it will saturate the pores, for a long time it will not let the wood deteriorate and will beautifully highlight the texture. You can varnish the handle if you like. As they say: the owner is a master.
The knife blade needs to be sharpened well.
That's all the jamb knife made with your hands is ready. Hope it will serve you for a long time.

One of the most pressing topics for any carver is where to get a good woodworking tool? High-quality well-sharpened wood cutters can help out even an inexperienced craftsman. The cuts are smooth, clean, and much easier to work with such a tool! After trying different raw materials for making woodworking tools, from scalpels to razors, I settled on metal cutters.

They are quite fragile and strong at the same time. Carbon steel allows you to keep the edge of the blade sharp for a long time, it does not blunt even on hard wood.

So, first we cut the cutter on a metal cutter according to a previously applied drawing of the future cutter:

In our case, this is a small knife-cutter, which is the main tool of the carver:

The presence of such an abundance of sparks during cutting indicates that the steel is good, carbonaceous, which means it is suitable for wood carving:

It turns out such a blank:

It is desirable that the part that will be in the handle is larger than the blade. This is for durability.

We grind the knife blade, constantly dipping it into cold water so that it does not overheat:

Now you need to make a handle for the knife. To do this, we take slats from a solid wood. In one part, we draw the outline of the knife, the other as an overlay:

We cut out a recess in the tree in the shape of a knife so that it drowns flush, we coat both parts with Pva glue:

We glue the knife in a vice. It takes 12 hours for gluing:

After gluing, we grind the handle, and bring the knife to the desired sharpness on a sharpener.

By this principle, you can make a knife with your own hands.

By the way, excellent wood chisels are obtained from metal drills:

And semicircular chisels from punch holes:

Knife - a joint can be made from a rapite saw:

Here are some more woodcutters that I made with my own hands from a metal cutter:

The main tools of any wood carver are jamb knives:

They are needed in different sizes and with different angles of inclination.

For wood knives, all zones are used (blade, toe and heel). The main requirements for knives: 1) they must fit well under the hand of the master, 2) must be made of good carbon steel with good sharpening. A jamb knife for wood carving can be made by hand ()

In addition to jambs for curly wood carving, there are also used auxiliary knives:

They come in different sizes and shapes, some for rough cutting, others for cutting through small parts.

For geometric woodcarving, various chisels... They are semicircular with varying degrees of convexity.

And also with a straight section

And a triangular section

Semicircular chisels are sometimes made with a 45-degree beveled cutting edge

Carvers often use cranberries... These are the same semicircular chisels with a blade curved near the cutting end.