How to choose non-woven fabric: tips and recommendations. Padding materials In Burda magazines, the instructions for each model indicate which one is suitable for the recommended fabric

This material, despite its apparent softness, is surprisingly stable. It does not stretch, so products lined with non-woven fabric are resistant to deformation and shrinkage.

Types of non-woven fabric

Manufacturers offer various types of non-woven fabric:

Adhesive- with a continuous adhesive surface for sealing small parts, and with a dotted one - for large ones.

Non-adhesive- rigid non-woven fabric, which is used for duplicating parts of raincoat fabrics and the like, as well as for appliqué.

Thread stitching— the material is stitched longitudinally. This increases its strength and drapability. Used for gluing small parts and their sections.

Easy tear off- used in embroidery, patchwork and appliqué to stabilize the base fabric. When work on the product is completed, the non-adhesive interlining is simply torn off by hand.

Adhesivewater-soluble can be removed by soaking the finished product in water for a few seconds.

Methods for gluing non-woven fabric

Beginning needlewomen are faced with the fact that when gluing non-woven fabric, the fabric begins to deform, waves appear on it, or the cushioning material does not stick at all. Following simple rules will help you avoid such problems.

1. Select the type of seal according to the type of fabric. For light, lightweight, viscose, wool, cotton and lavsan, non-woven fabrics marked H-180, H-200, C-405 are suitable. A wide range of uses for stitched non-woven fabric (H-410) - from light to heavy fabrics. The densest stabilizer, E-420, is glued to velor, patent leather and artificial leather.

2. The temperature on the iron is set depending on the type of fabric and non-woven fabric. 130-150 °C - for light and heavy fabrics, and 60-85 °C when working with leather and thick non-woven fabrics. It is recommended to first try on a small piece of paper to select the optimal gluing temperature.

3. Iron preferably using a cloth. Wet the ironing sheet only for gluing the stitched interlining. Sometimes the instructions advise to wet the thread seal itself. Some people use a damp cloth when working with wool, linen and cotton.

4. When ironing the interlining to the fabric, do not iron it, but move it evenly over the entire surface. Non-woven N-180, N-200 and S-405 are pressed for 8 seconds, stitched - 10-12 s, and for leather - from 8-19 s. The thicker the interlining material, the longer the ironing time and the force of pressure exerted on the iron.

After gluing the interlining, the fabric should be left until it cools completely and only then continue to work on the product.

In order for the product you sew to have an impeccable appearance and fit well, in addition to a good pattern and sewing technology, it is necessary to choose the right cushioning material and process it. Today, fabric and sewing supply stores offer a wide variety of pads.

If you use ready-made patterns, for example, Burda, then the instructions for the model always indicate a suitable interfacing for the recommended fabric, and also on the reduced details of the pattern or on the cutting plans, the parts that need to be duplicated with sewing interfacings are marked.

How to choose the right gasket

Gaskets can be woven or made of non-woven materials.
The table shows the main types of Vlieseline gaskets.

So, for example, for thin, well-draped fabrics (silk, viscose) for blouses and dresses, a thin, soft interlining, interlining H 180, is used.
For thick cotton fabrics (twill, madapolam) when sewing blouses, light jackets and dresses, a soft, but shape-holding interlining, interlining H 200, is well suited.

When sewing trousers, jackets and coats from very dense wool or cotton fabrics (denim, flannel, velor), use interlining H 410 or interlining G 405. Interlining G 405 is softer, and interlining H 410 has additional stabilizing longitudinal threads that help preserve product shapes.

For thick, heat-resistant fabrics (e.g. linen), the white heat-resistant interlining F 220 is perfect.

Gaskets are divided into iron-on and ground-on

It is easier and easier to work with a gasket attached using a heated iron. It does not need to be basted or stitched, so iron-on pads are most often used.
When selecting interfacing, follow the ironing and handling instructions for your fabric. The processing and ironing rules for the most commonly used gaskets are presented in the table.
For Vlieseline gaskets, the blue edge indicates the bonding conditions.

Cut the gaskets

Most gaskets do not stretch in the longitudinal direction and slightly stretch in the transverse direction. When cutting pieces from the interlining, make sure to follow the direction of the grain thread indicated on the pattern. It is especially important to follow these markings when cutting Vlieseline H 410, a new super-soft material with stabilizing warp threads.
But there are also exceptions. In some cases, interlinings are cut on the bias (for example, the sides of a jacket) and along the transverse (for example, when strengthening the hem of the bottom).

How to iron a gasket

First you need to decate the fabric so that during processing the part does not shrink or bubble.
The interlining is always ironed to the wrong side of the fabric. When only part of the cut piece is reinforced with a spacer, the mark from the ironed spacer will not be imprinted on the front side if the bottom edge of the piece is slightly stretched (1).

To ensure a strong bond between the pad and the fabric, strictly follow the instructions for working with this type of pad – temperature conditions and ironing time.
If it is indicated that a gasket, such as H 410 or G 405, is to be ironed with moisture, be sure to secure the gasket using a damp cloth.
When ironing the gasket, do not move the iron over the fabric: lift it and place it, wait the required time for gluing, lift the iron again and move it to a new place. In Fig. Figure 2 clearly shows how to position the iron when ironing a product part.

Important: Don't forget about seam allowances when cutting out the pads. They should be slightly smaller than the allowances of the main part. If the pad protrudes beyond the edges of the cut part, then when ironing, the adhesive mass will not only stain the pad, but may then be imprinted on the sole of the iron and it will be very difficult to clean.

When cutting small pieces, such as facings and collars, cut the interfacing pieces first with large seam allowances. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric from which the piece is being cut, pin the pattern and cut the piece with the required allowances. Finally, draw the contours of the pattern.
After ironing the spacers, allow the product parts to cool for 20 minutes.

Important: Make sure that the parts lie flat, without bending. Later, this defect cannot be eliminated by smoothing. When the pieces have cooled, fold them right sides inward, pin the pattern pieces again and trace the outlines.

Important: Ironing conditions for pads may vary for different fabrics. Before strengthening the parts with a gasket, do a test on a piece of flap. This is the only way to make sure that neither the adhesive mass nor the edge of the interfacing is imprinted on the front side of the fabric.

Grind-on spacers

If the iron test shows that the iron-on interfacing is not suitable for your fabric, use iron-on interfacing or woven materials such as wool canvas, lining fabric, and for sheer fabrics, organza (a sheer, rigid fabric).
These parts are cut out from cushioning material, observing the direction of the grain thread and allowances, as for the main parts of the product.

Important: Sections that coincide with the fold lines are cut out without allowance.

Pin the interfacing onto the wrong side of the cut piece and baste it on all sides. Sew the edge of the interlining, canvas or lining fabric, aligned with the fold line of the fabric, using a cross stitch.
With modern tailoring, pads make it possible to impart the desired rigidity to the elements of the product, which significantly affects the appearance of the model.
Literature used: "Burda" magazines

Gasket materials There are two main types of gasket materials - adhesive and non-adhesive, varying in thickness and composition. Burda patterns usually use adhesive pads, which are more convenient to process, from Freudenberg. Sewing instructions always tell you what thickness of interfacing is required for each pattern. If the selected fabric differs from the recommended one, then the gasket should be changed to a more suitable one. Here are some guidelines: ■ For thin, well-draped fabrics (silk, viscose), for blouses and dresses, a soft thin interlining, for example interlining H 180, is suitable. ■ For dense cotton fabrics (twill), for blouses, dresses and light jackets it is better take a shape-preserving, but at the same time soft interlining, for example interlining H 200. ■ For very dense wool or cotton fabrics (flannel, velor, denim) for trousers, jackets and coats, interlining G 405 or interlining H 410 is suitable. The first brand of interlining is softer , and non-woven N 410 has additional longitudinal stabilizing threads, which retain the shape of the product especially well. ■ For dense, boil-resistant fabrics (for example, linen), it is better to take white non-woven fabric F 220, which is boil-resistant. ■ Formband interlining is a bias binding made of thin adhesive interlining 2 cm wide. A chain stitch at a distance of 4 mm from the edge of the binding stabilizes its shape. The lining is ideal for fixing the shape of the neck and for working with parts cut at an angle of 45°. The binding is very soft, perfectly fixes the shape, but does not deprive the fabric of its elasticity. Available in white and graphite colors and sold by the meter in specialized stores. ■ Non-woven fleece - water-soluble non-woven fleece designed for embroidery on thin or mesh fabrics. Before starting work, non-woven solufliz is placed on or under the fabric. Upon completion of embroidery, the product is placed in cold water until the interlining is completely dissolved. Iron the non-woven fleece with a low-heat iron without steam. ■ For embroidery on fabrics with elastane fibers, knitted and knitted fabrics, interlining interlining is ideal. This interfacing is ironed for 5 seconds (in the "wool" mode), does not last long and is easily separated from the fabric after the embroidery is completed. Fixirshtikfleece non-woven fabric is available in white and is sold by the meter in specialized stores. ■ Interlining G 785 – soft and light bi-elastic thin lining. It is used for duplicating collars and facings, as well as fronts of jackets and coats made of light fabrics. Principles of working with interlining Details from interlining are cut out with the same direction of the grain thread as parts made from the main fabric, and with seam allowances. The cutting details from the interlining are ironed to the cutting details from the main fabric from the wrong side. To avoid warping the fabric, place the iron on 1-2 sections for a short time, and then move the iron over the entire area of ​​the part for about 8 seconds. Having ironed the gasket, the part must be left unfolded for about 20-30 minutes to cool. When ironing, you should strictly follow the recommended temperature and ironing time, also pay attention to whether this pad needs to be ironed with or without moisture. If you are duplicating the fabric with a moisturized pad, then the pad must be secured through damp cotton fabric in the “Wool” mode for 10-12 seconds. Attention: you cannot use an iron with a steam humidifier for duplication. When using the dubbing method without moistening, the iron is placed on the pad in the “wool” or “synthetic” mode and processed for 8 seconds. It is necessary to ensure that the gasket does not protrude beyond the cut parts of the cut. Otherwise, when ironing the pad, the adhesive trace will remain on the backing or on the ironing board and, when ironing the pad, it will stain the working surface of the iron or even ruin the front side of the fabric. Attention: it is almost impossible to completely remove the adhesive layer of non-woven fabric from the surface of the fabric. Products reinforced with Freudenberg gaskets can be safely washed and dry-cleaned in the future. Even if all the rules for duplicating with interlining are followed, the top fabric can “behave” in an unexpected way, so it is better to perform a test duplication on an unnecessary piece of the fabric being used. If you are convinced that the adhesive interfacing is not suitable for the fabric you have chosen, use non-adhesive interlinings made from non-woven linen, and for transparent fabrics - organza. BurdaStyle

A wide range of gasket materials are now available in stores, but adhesive gaskets are the most popular.
Adhesive gasket materials contain a special fusible coating on one side. They are very easy to use and will free you from a significant amount of manual work.
The adhesive gasket also has its disadvantages:
- do not use adhesive cushioning materials when sewing products that will be subsequently exposed to prolonged exposure to heat and moisture. In these cases, it is better to use a quilting pad;
- the adhesive pad does not stick to fabric with a textured and slippery surface.

There are four types of adhesive pads.
- Woven cushioning materials are stretchable in the oblique direction, but stable in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
- Non-woven cushioning materials stretch well in the transverse direction and poorly in the longitudinal direction.
-Adhesive knitwear stretchable in the transverse direction and practically inextensible in the longitudinal direction. It gives a soft but stable shape.
-Gasket material with transverse reinforcement does not stretch at all: neither in the transverse nor in the lobar directions. It is elastic in an oblique direction. This material provides a stable but flexible shape.

All these cushioning materials are suitable for a classic model, in particular for a suit. The best option is a combination of different types of pads on different parts of clothing.
Experiment with gasket samples, evaluate their molding properties and settle on the one that gives the desired effect.

If you use Burda magazines, then you know that the sewing instructions contain the types of gaskets that it is advisable to use for the models presented there. But so that you can navigate your fabric, familiarize yourself with the properties of German gaskets, which you can purchase in specialized stores.

Pad	Fabrics to be strengthened	Rules for ironing
Non-woven fabric N 180	Thin, soft padding for soft flowing fabrics (silk, viscose). Width 60 cm.	Set the iron to the “wool/silk” mode and slowly iron each section 5-6 times, without wetting.
Non-woven fabric N 200	A denser but softer interfacing for thick, thin fabrics (taffeta, twill, etc.). Width 60 cm.	Set the iron to “wool” mode and slowly iron each section 5-6 times, without wetting.
Interlining G 405	Pad for light and medium fabrics (wool, comb, flannel, velor, jersey). Width 90 cm.
Non-woven fabric N 410	For light, medium fabrics, as well as heavy ones: wool, comb. Width 60 cm.	Set the iron to the “wool/cotton” mode, iron each area with moisture, with good pressure, 10 - 12 seconds.
Non-woven fabric N 315	For heavy fabrics: wool. Width 60 cm.	Set the iron to the “wool/cotton” mode, iron each area with moisture, with good pressure, 10 - 12 seconds.
Non-woven fabric F 220	For dense, boil-resistant fabrics: cotton. Width 60 cm.
Interlining H 250	For light and medium fabrics: cotton, polyester fabric. Width 60 cm.	Set the iron to the “wool” mode, slowly iron each section 5-6 times with pressure, without wetting, for 8 seconds.
Interlining LE 420	Kid leather, velor leather, art. skin, thermosensitive materials (varnish fabric, shaped fabric). Width 90 cm.	Set the iron to “silk” mode, iron with light pressure in sections for 8 - 10 seconds, without wetting.
Interlining H 630	Iron-on bulk non-woven fabric; light and medium fabrics: cotton, muslin, wool. Width 90 cm.	Set the iron to the “wool/cotton” mode, iron with good pressure, moistening in sections for 15 seconds.
Non-woven fabric L 11	For light fabrics that deform when ironed: crinkled, boucle, pleated. Width 60 cm.	Grinded gasket.
Non-woven fabric M 12	For light and medium fabrics: crinkled, boucle, pleated. Width 60 cm.	Grinded gasket.
Non-woven fabric S 13	Heavy bouclé fabrics. Width 60 cm.	Grinded gasket.

How to do a glue test
1. Cut out a strip of the main fabric and squares from the adhesive interfacing samples.
Cut out small triangles from plain fabric and place them under one of the corners of each sample.

2. Glue the pad samples using an ironing iron (to protect the surface of the iron). The temperature of the iron should be appropriate for ironing wool.
- The iron should not slide on the fabric. When rearranging it, make sure that the melting areas overlap each other. This will provide a more secure fit.
- Glue for 10 - 15 seconds. Use your body weight to press down on the iron.
- Iron the finished part with the spacer on the front side. Use an iron to protect the front surface of the fabric.
- The warm gasket is easily deformed, so the part must cool completely before work.

3. Try to tear off the gasket by pulling the unadhered corners with triangles of fabric. It should be firmly attached to the fabric.

4. Fold the fabric with the interfacing in half, drawing the fold of the bead on each of the samples. There should be no creases at the bend.

How to Evaluate Glue Test Results
- If the pad is not firmly attached to the fabric, try gluing again, increasing the temperature of the iron, the pressure on it and the processing time.
- If there are swellings on the gasket, which means the iron is too hot. Reduce the temperature and processing time enough to keep the gasket smooth.
- If wrinkles have formed on the surface of the fabric, try gluing again by increasing the heat time and iron pressure, or perhaps the interfacing is too thick for this fabric.
- If the color of the main fabric has changed, and a noticeable mark has formed from the cut of the gasket sample, then the gasket material is too thick for this fabric.
- If at the bend the fabric with interlining does not give a smooth, rounded edge(creases appear), which means the gasket is too thick.

Keep a selection of different cushioning materials in small quantities at all times. Selecting these materials will allow you to use different types of gaskets in one product.
For example, a thicker one - on the lower collar and lapels, a thinner one - on the hem and other elements of the model.