Dieffenbachia diseases. Dieffenbachia - diseases, pests, spots on leaves
In Dieffenbachia, the tips of the leaves often dry out and turn yellow, and other diseases appear. Beginning flower growers do not always know what to do. Consultation with specialists regarding the diagnosis and treatment of Dieffenbachia diseases: the causes of their occurrence, factors influencing development, progressive treatment methods will help restore the plant to its original and healthy appearance.
List of common Dieffenbachia diseases, their treatment with photos
How to treat Dieffenbachia diseases, signs of which are often present on the leaves of the plant? Explanations from specialists with detailed photos.
Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow. It all starts with the lower leaves. Reasons: either this is a natural process of plant aging, if the conditions for caring for Dieffenbachia are fully met, or the watering regime is violated. Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow from excess moisture and sudden temperature fluctuations. The plant needs to be watered abundantly, but not often. Soft, purified water at room temperature is used for irrigation. When overmoistened, Dieffenbachia leaves will turn yellow more intensely than during the aging process.
Dieffenbachia leaves dry out. Both the tips of the leaves and the entire leaf blade can dry out.. Causes of the disease: low air humidity at elevated temperatures. Dieffenbachia is a very sensitive plant, and therefore its leaves can dry out as a reaction to any factor unfavorable to the flower. It is necessary to strictly observe the conditions for keeping the plant.
Dieffenbachia leaves curl. Causes of the disease: unfavorable external factors. Incorrect care. Leaves can curl from cold air currents (draft from an open window or door) and at low temperatures in the room where it grows. Dieffenbachia leaves curl due to a disturbance in the salt balance of the soil and its compaction. It is necessary to replant the plant by transshipment with partial removal of the earthen clod around the roots. For irrigation, use only soft, purified water at room temperature. Carry out the correct fertilizing. The plant should not be overfed.
Why do Dieffenbachia leaves not unwind or open? Young leaves of Dieffenbachia may not open due to lack of sunlight or low air humidity. In this case, the disease is eliminated by normalizing the regime of keeping the flower. In addition, a deficiency of phosphorus in the soil can slow down the development of young Dieffenbachia leaves and they do not open. Calcium deficiency in the soil has a bad effect on the development of the Dieffenbachia root system. As a result, young shoots grow poorly and do not open. It is necessary to treat the disease with regular complex color feedings, especially during periods of intensive growth (spring and summer).
Spots on Dieffenbachia leaves are light brown in color, which appear on old vegetation, gradually spreading to the entire leaf blade. Over time, the Dieffenbachia leaf dies. Disease: Leaf spot caused by a fungus. Causes and treatment: the cause may be high humidity and air temperature in the room where the flower grows, excessive watering and lack of light. Dieffenbachia is isolated, the affected leaves are removed, the plant is completely treated with fungicides (foundazole, etc.).
The Dieffenbachia leaf is covered with a barely noticeable white coating. The leaves gradually lose their decorative effect, turn pale and begin to dry out. Dieffenbachia disease: mealybug. It is often present on plants at the larval stage - mobile, white insects that have many legs on the sides of the body. Causes of the disease: high temperature and low humidity. Treatment: watering and spraying with Aktara, Fitoverm, Aktarin and intestinal preparations. A prerequisite is the isolation of infected Dieffenbachia and the prevention of all plants that were near it.
Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are often attacked by pests.
The most common:
Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of the trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.
Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunted growth, curling and drying of the leaves.
Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.
The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on Dieffenbachia is especially favored by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).
Scale insects and false scale insects, which suck the juice from leaves and stems, leaving a characteristic discharge, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry out and fall off.
Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, attack leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves become deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.
Measures to combat all of the listed Dieffenbachia pests are similar; they consist of their mechanical removal using a sponge and soap solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treatment, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.
Dieffenbachia diseases
Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, the most common of which are:
Leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edges of leaves, primarily the lower ones, of small brown spots with an orange border, gradually covering the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted through plant debris and water.
Anthracnose, in which fairly large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading over the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected plant parts.
Both diseases are provoked by high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil; as control measures, it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazol or vitaros.
Fusarium, affects the root collar and root of the flower, where dark depressed spots of an elongated shape are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and wilts. In damaged areas you can see light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil for a long time and spreads when it touches diseased and healthy plant roots. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.
To prevent fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladine). When signs of disease appear, spray with a systemic fungicide.
Root rot, manifested in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and subsequently lodging and death of the plant. The affected parts are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil; it is facilitated by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperature. If there are signs of damage, limit watering, replace the substrate and treat with a systemic fungicide.
Among bacterial diseases, we note Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. Later they acquire a brown or brown color. The disease spreads through infected plant remains due to mechanical damage, for example, during cuttings. Flowers kept at elevated temperatures and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizer in the soil, are more severely affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.
Viral diseases include:
Bronzing of Dieffenbachia, manifested in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither and remain hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.
Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spotting.
Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is carried by insects, thrips (bronzing) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is treatment with insecticides.
Other problems encountered when growing Dieffenbachia
In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, Dieffenbachia may suffer from improper care and unsuitable living conditions. Let's look at some questions that often arise among amateur gardeners.
Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the reason for this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves also turn yellow when affected by root rot.
Why do Dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when attacked by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.
Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperatures. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by covering the cut with activated charcoal or charcoal; if it is large, cut off the flower and root the top.
Why does Dieffenbachia dry out? If old leaves dry out, then this is a natural process; if the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, the Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting off and rooting the top. If young leaves dry out, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, or drafts.
Why do the edges of leaves turn brown? This is most likely caused by drying out soil or low temperatures in winter.
Why do the leaves become discolored? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.
Why does Dieffenbachia cry? This occurs from excessive watering; the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of Dieffenbachia before rain. As a resident of tropical forests, the plant prepares in advance for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.
Healthy Dieffenbachia is characterized by vigorous growth and bright leaves of appropriate size and color for the variety. If a plant loses its attractiveness and begins to get sick, this is most often due to errors in care, violations of temperature or water conditions. Let's take a closer look at why Dieffenbachia gets sick and what measures need to be taken to prevent damage to the flower by pests and diseases.
Pests of Dieffenbachia
Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are often attacked by pests.
The most common:
Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of the trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.
Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunted growth, curling and drying of the leaves.
Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.
The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on Dieffenbachia is especially favored by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).
Scale insects and false scale insects, which suck the juice from leaves and stems, leaving a characteristic discharge, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry out and fall off.
Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, attack leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves become deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.
Measures to combat all of the listed Dieffenbachia pests are similar; they consist of their mechanical removal using a sponge and soap solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treatment, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.
Dieffenbachia diseases
Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, the most common of which are:
Leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edges of leaves, primarily the lower ones, of small brown spots with an orange border, gradually covering the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted through plant debris and water.
Anthracnose, in which fairly large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading over the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected plant parts.
Both diseases are provoked by high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil; as control measures, it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazol or vitaros.
Fusarium, affects the root collar and root of the flower, where dark depressed spots of an elongated shape are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and wilts. In damaged areas you can see light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil for a long time and spreads when it touches diseased and healthy plant roots. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.
To prevent fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladine). When signs of disease appear, spray with a systemic fungicide.
Root rot, manifested in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and subsequently lodging and death of the plant. The affected parts are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil; it is facilitated by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperature. If there are signs of damage, limit watering, replace the substrate and treat with a systemic fungicide.
Among bacterial diseases, we note Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. Later they acquire a brown or brown color. The disease spreads through infected plant remains due to mechanical damage, for example, during cuttings. Flowers kept at elevated temperatures and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizer in the soil, are more severely affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.
Viral diseases include:
Bronzing of Dieffenbachia, manifested in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither and remain hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.
Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spotting.
Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is carried by insects, thrips (bronzing) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is treatment with insecticides.
Other problems encountered when growing Dieffenbachia
In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, Dieffenbachia may suffer from improper care and inappropriate living conditions. Let's look at some questions that often arise among amateur gardeners.
Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the reason for this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves also turn yellow when affected by root rot.
Why do Dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when attacked by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.
Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperatures. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by covering the cut with activated charcoal or charcoal; if it is large, cut off the flower and root the top.
Why does Dieffenbachia dry out? If old leaves dry out, then this is a natural process; if the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, the Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting off and rooting the top. If young leaves dry out, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, or drafts.
Why do the edges of leaves turn brown? This is most likely caused by drying out soil or low temperatures in winter.
Why do the leaves become discolored? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.
Why does Dieffenbachia cry? This occurs from excessive watering; the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of Dieffenbachia before rain. As a resident of tropical forests, the plant prepares in advance for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.
The homeland of Dieffenbachia, plants of the araceae family, is the tropics of America.
This shrub is named after the gardener Dieffenbach, who worked at the Vienna Botanical Garden.
As a rule, all varieties of Dieffenbachia are poisonous and, knowing this, planters during slavery, in order to punish, were forced to bite off the stem of this plant, which led to swelling of the tongue and oral mucosa. As a result, the plant began to be called the “dumb rod.”
The plant has large oblong leaves.
DIEFENBACHIA VARIETIES
Variety Dieffenbachia spotted (Diffenbachia Picta, or otherwise Diffenbachia maculata)- is the progenitor of all indoor Dieffenbachias. Indoor Dieffenbachias are distinguished by their variegated leaves.
On the green leaf of this plant there are spots of white or cream color, sometimes they merge into light stripes, or, as in Diffenbachia Camilla.connect into a large one spot.
Lovely Dieffenbachia (Diffenbachia amoena)-another popular variety - differs from spotted Dieffenbachia in that its leaves have a more uniform color.
DIEFENBACHIA CARE
If you want this flower to always delight you with its beauty, know that the most favorable temperature for it is +20-25 degrees; in winter the temperature should not fall below +17 degrees. But the most important thing is that there are no sudden temperature fluctuations.
Dieffenbachia loves when the room where it is located is constantly ventilated, but this plant does not like drafts. In summer you can take it out onto the balcony, but remember that the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight. Although Dieffenbachia is spotted and loves light, it should be kept in partial shade in the summer. In general, many varieties of Dieffenbachia can be placed in dimly lit rooms.
Since Dieffenbachia is a tropical plant, it needs high air humidity: at least 70-80%. To do this, the leaves of the plant are sprayed and washed 2 times a month.
When growing Dieffenbachia at home, the soil in the pot must be kept moist, but do not overdo it with watering, since waterlogging at low temperatures can lead to rotting of the plant's stems and roots.
Watering should be done with settled warm water. If you water Dieffenbachia from a tap, the leaves of the plant will become covered with white spots. To clean the leaves from dust, Dieffenbachia should be washed in the shower. However, it should be remembered that flooding Dieffenbachia with excess water will result in a plant with brown leaves.
At air temperatures above +20 degrees, the plant should be placed on wet gravel or wet peat.
Dieffenbachia should not be fed with fertilizers often: in winter, fertilizing and watering are reduced, and from spring to autumn, the plant needs watering and fertilizing more intensively.
The best soil composition for transplanting Dieffenbachia is a mixture consisting of peat soil, turf and sand in a ratio of 4:2:1.
Dieffenbachia is replanted annually in the spring into a larger pot, with drainage at the bottom. In order not to destroy the integrity of the earthen coma, the plant is simply transferred from one pot to another, but do not take too large a pot: excess soil can lead to the fact that the soil, not developed by the roots of the plant, can turn sour, and this in turn can lead to death of Dieffenbachia. You can ensure air access to the roots of the plant by constantly loosening the soil.
REPRODUCTION OF DIEFENBACHIA
Dieffenbachia propagates mainly by stem apical cuttings, less often by air layering.
For rooting, you can also use side shoots that some varieties of Dieffenbachia produce.
For rooting, it is best to use sand, and the optimal temperature for rooting is +25 degrees with high humidity.
Apical cuttings are used in spring and summer; Dieffenbachia is propagated by air layering from May to September.
DIFFENBACHIA. DISEASES. PESTS
Like any indoor plant, Dieffenbachia needs proper care and maintenance. If the maintenance conditions are not maintained, the plant will get sick and react to the disease by yellowing or drying of the leaves, and the appearance of brown spots on them. We need to react in time and understand what caused the plant’s reaction: was it either lacking the required amount of light, or, on the contrary, was there too much light? Or perhaps the reason was a draft and that’s why the plant began to wither?
Why does Dieffenbachia get sick and not grow: the leaves turn yellow. Pests of Dieffenbachia
Healthy Dieffenbachia is characterized by vigorous growth and bright leaves of appropriate size and color for the variety. If a plant loses its attractiveness and begins to get sick, this is most often due to errors in care, violations of temperature or water conditions. Let's take a closer look at why Dieffenbachia gets sick and what measures need to be taken to prevent damage to the flower by pests and diseases.
Pests of Dieffenbachia
Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are often attacked by pests.
The most common:
Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of the trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.
Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunted growth, curling and drying of the leaves.
Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.
The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on Dieffenbachia is especially favored by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).
Scale insects and false scale insects, which suck the juice from leaves and stems, leaving a characteristic discharge, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry out and fall off.
Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, attack leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves become deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.
Measures to combat all of the listed Dieffenbachia pests are similar; they consist of their mechanical removal using a sponge and soap solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treatment, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.
Dieffenbachia diseases
Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, the most common of which are:
Leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edges of leaves, primarily the lower ones, of small brown spots with an orange border, gradually covering the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted through plant debris and water.
Anthracnose, in which fairly large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading over the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected plant parts.
Both diseases are provoked by high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil; as control measures, it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazol or vitaros.
Fusarium, affects the root collar and root of the flower, where dark depressed spots of an elongated shape are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and wilts. In damaged areas you can see light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil for a long time and spreads when it touches diseased and healthy plant roots. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.
To prevent fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladine). When signs of disease appear, spray with a systemic fungicide.
Root rot, manifested in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and subsequently lodging and death of the plant. The affected parts are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil; it is facilitated by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperature. If there are signs of damage, limit watering, replace the substrate and treat with a systemic fungicide.
Among bacterial diseases, we note Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. Later they acquire a brown or brown color. The disease spreads through infected plant remains due to mechanical damage, for example, during cuttings. Flowers kept at elevated temperatures and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizer in the soil, are more severely affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.
Viral diseases include:
Bronzing of Dieffenbachia, manifested in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither and remain hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.
Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spotting.
Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is carried by insects, thrips (bronzing) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is treatment with insecticides.
Other problems encountered when growing Dieffenbachia
In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, Dieffenbachia may suffer from improper care and unsuitable living conditions. Let's look at some questions that often arise among amateur gardeners.
Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the reason for this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves also turn yellow when affected by root rot.
Why do Dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when attacked by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.
Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperatures. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by covering the cut with activated charcoal or charcoal; if it is large, cut off the flower and root the top.
Why does Dieffenbachia dry out? If old leaves dry out, then this is a natural process; if the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, the Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting off and rooting the top. If young leaves dry out, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, or drafts.
Why do the edges of leaves turn brown? This is most likely caused by drying out soil or low temperatures in winter.
Why do the leaves become discolored? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.
Why does Dieffenbachia cry? This occurs from excessive watering; the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of Dieffenbachia before rain. As a resident of tropical forests, the plant prepares in advance for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.
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?Dieffenbachia ailments: how to help cope with them.
Dieffenbachia (lat.) is an evergreen tropical plant, its homeland is the humid forests of Central and South America.
Dieffenbachia can reach two meters in height, the leaves are large, wide, and variegated.
With good, competent care, Dieffenbachia pleases with its exotic beauty, the flower develops well, and new leaves constantly appear. But what to do if your “green household member” gets sick?
Most often, gardeners growing Dieffenbachia are faced with the fact that its leaves begin to turn yellow, dry out and curl, and there are other problems - the flower grows poorly and becomes lethargic.
What is the cause of the malaise: improper care at home or a pest attack? Let's look at all the "sores" of Dieffenbachia in more detail and try to determine the cause of their occurrence and methods of treatment.
Dieffenbachia diseases and their treatment
How to help a tropical beauty?
- Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow, reasons, what to do? Solution to the problem:
- low air humidity. Dieffenbachia, not receiving enough moisture from the air, also begins to turn yellow, so in winter it should be kept away from central heating radiators or buy an air humidifier;
- direct sunlight, there should be enough light;
It is necessary to check whether the roots of the flower have actually begun to rot. To do this, you need to remove the plant from the pot, inspect the root system, remove rot and affected areas of the root, transplant the flower into another smaller container, observing the planting rules (drainage 1/3 of the pot, 2/3 soil mixed with sand and peat)
- fungal infections (atracnose, leaf spot), fungal spores (leaf spot) can be obtained by the plant with irrigation water; dry brown spots appear along the edges of the leaves, gradually spreading over the entire surface of the leaf, it becomes lethargic and lifeless.
Athracnose is provoked by excessively high temperature in the room, dry air, in some cases, waterlogged soil (excessive watering); to get rid of this problem, it is enough to normalize the temperature and watering regime; the affected leaves can be treated with a regular fungicide to prevent infection of other leaves;
- drafts, low air temperatures can also lead to leaves drying out and falling off; to eliminate the Dieffenbachia problem, you need to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the room;
- the plant ages, the lower leaves dry out and fall off, this is a natural process. It is necessary to rejuvenate it by cuttings. To do this, the bare trunk of Dieffenbachia needs to be cut into cuttings, leaving only a small part of the stem in the pot, which will soon give rise to a new shoot and Dieffenbachia will continue to grow;
To combat fusarium, the flower must be transplanted into another pot, after removing rot from the roots and treating the affected areas with a fungicide;
- root rot, which appears when the soil is overly fertilized and moistened. Rot first affects the root system, then gradually affects the trunk, the flower withers and dies. It is necessary to replant Dieffenbachia, having previously treated the roots with a fungicide and limit watering;
- overmoistening in combination with low air temperature, in this case it is necessary to provide the plant with a comfortable temperature and limit watering.
In the photo below you will see the symptoms of the disease in Dieffenbachia:
Pests. Methods to combat them
Despite its poisonous nature, Dieffenbachia is susceptible to attacks by pests, which cause significant harm to it.
It is most often affected by spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects. The method of combating each species is the same: it is necessary to wash the leaves and the trunk of the flower with a sponge soaked in soapy water (which should later be washed off under running warm water) and treat Dieffenbachia with an insecticide solution (karbofos, 15 drops per 1 liter of water).
- scale insect is a small insect with a hard waxy body, it can usually be found on the inside of the leaf, the affected leaves turn pale and fall off;
- the mealybug got its name due to its secretions that look like shreds of fluff, it attacks the leaves, Dieffenbachia begins to turn yellow and fall off, the flower dies;
- spider mite, the presence of which can be determined by the coating of cobwebs on the trunk, the leaves of the flower become sluggish and lifeless;
- aphid is an insect that has a dark green color, it can be seen on the inside of the leaves, aphids are dangerous because they are able to suck out intercellular fluid, weakening the plant and are a carrier of diseases;
- thrips are small beetles that suck the juice from the plant, which leads to curling and drying of the leaves.
- the soil surface becomes slimy;
- a greenish coating appears;
- upon subsequent watering (even if the soil has dried out), an unpleasant odor appears.
- use of high-quality soil;
- compliance with all requirements for the conditions of plant maintenance.
Conclusion
Here is all the information about the most common diseases and problems of Dieffenbachia. Of course, it is possible that none of the above may happen to your plant, but: “forewarned is forearmed,” take this article into account and then you will be able to save your favorite Dieffenbachia in any situation.
In the video below you will learn tips for caring for Dieffenbachia and ways to treat its diseases:
Spotted Dieffenbachia "Camilla" is a spectacular and dangerous plant - how to care for it at home?
Dieffenbachia is an evergreen plant from the South American tropics. There are about 40 species in total, including “Camilla”. Its thick, succulent stems bear large, lanceolate, cream-colored leaves with a light green edge.
At home, Dieffenbachia of any variety blooms extremely rarely, but some gardeners still manage to achieve the appearance of a modest cob-shaped inflorescence. This beauty has only one drawback - its juice is poisonous.
Home care
Care after purchase
Choose the right place for your new pet: spacious, well-lit, but out of hot, direct sunlight. For example, a couple of meters from the south window. If the windows do not provide enough light, artificial lighting will save the situation.
Dieffenbachia loves moisture, but is very demanding on it. The water for watering it should at least be settled or passed through a filter, possibly rain or even boiled. The presence of lime in it is unacceptable.
Watering is required abundantly, but within reason, without stagnation of moisture. In winter, the usual amount of water is reduced, but the soil in the container should not be allowed to dry out completely.
Camilla loves water not only in the form of watering, but also in the form of spraying, as well as wiping the leaves. A warm shower in the bathroom is possible if the plant is small.
In this case, you need to carefully ensure that water does not get on the soil in the pot and wash it away.
Rare gardeners manage to surround the capricious Dieffenbachia with such impeccable conditions in which it would bloom. But those who are especially diligent may be lucky, and in April or May they can see a spadix flower appearing from the axil of a leaf in a creamy-green “veil.”
It fades quickly, after which the wilted inflorescence must be cut off so that it does not take away nutrients from the plant. The fruit is an orange-red berry - of course, inedible.
Crown formation
In order for Camilla to maintain its impressive appearance, you need to get rid of damaged leaves. Pruning is also necessary if Dieffenbachia grows too quickly. The pruning procedure must be carried out with gloves.
Blot each damaged leaf with a napkin so that it absorbs the poisonous juice from the “wounds”, and then use a knife or blade treated with alcohol to cut off the leaf or part of the plant trunk.
In the photo below you can appreciate the appearance of Dieffenbachia “Camilla”:
The optimal soil composition for Dieffenbachia is: leaf soil, peat, crushed sphagnum moss and fine river sand, all preferably in a ratio of 2:1:1:0.5. You can add charcoal.
In spring and summer, Dieffenbachia is fed with liquid mineral or organic fertilizer for indoor plants. It should not contain lime. It is recommended to fertilize approximately once every 10 days.
Planting and transplanting
The minimum frequency of Dieffenbachia transplantation is once every three years. However, sometimes this procedure needs to be carried out twice a year. It all depends on the speed of its growth.
A flower needs a “housewarming” when its root system fills absolutely the entire pot.
The best time to “relocate” is from February to May. The new container should be only a couple of centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one, but not larger - excess soil in an overly large pot can turn sour over time and cause rotting of the roots.
A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the new pot, and then the plant is transferred along with the earthen ball if the soil is in good condition (without pest larvae and traces of rot). It will need to be cleared of fragments of the previous drainage.
Reproduction
There are several ways to propagate Dieffenbachia. It is best to carry them out between May and September.
Apical cuttings. Cut off the top, dry the cut with a napkin so that it absorbs the poisonous juice. Place the cuttings in water, moss, moistened sand or a peat-sand mixture.
It is necessary to provide warmth of 21-24 degrees, protection from direct rays of the sun and regular gentle spraying. When the roots grow 2-3 cm, the cuttings can already be planted in a special substrate for domestic Dieffenbachias.
Stem cuttings. If the plant is old, with a bare trunk, it can be given a second life. Cut the bare trunk into pieces, each of which will have at least one node in the middle.
In the compactions, where there used to be leaves, the buds sleep. Place them on a moistened peat-sand mixture with the buds pointing upward and cover with transparent film.
Optimal temperature for rooting: +25. When the roots appear, plant the sprouts in a permanent place, using the usual substrate for your Dieffenbachia.
Air layering. Make a small cut in the stem and insert a match or sliver into it to keep it closed. Then wrap it with moistened moss, and on top of the moss - a transparent film.
Carefully secure it with tape or thread above and below the cut. Soon the roots will sprout under the film, and then part of the stem along with them needs to be cut off and, carefully removing the polyethylene, plant the cuttings in a regular substrate along with moss.
Only bush Dieffenbachia reproduces by division. The bush can be dug up on one side or completely and divided with a knife into several parts with shoots and root shoots, and then planted in different pots.
Temperature
In summer, the optimal temperature for Camilla is 20-30 degrees Celsius. In winter, it should under no circumstances fall below +15. A sharp cold snap or drafts are unacceptable - they will provoke leaf fall.
Benefits and harms
Dieffenbachia juice poisonous: When it comes into contact with mucous membranes or skin, it causes burning, redness, swelling and even slight temporary numbness.
If it gets into the stomach, it is likely to provoke more serious problems: it will cause vomiting and paralyze the vocal cords.
Therefore, the plant should be in a place where neither children, nor pets and birds can reach. If the troubles described above do occur, you need to rinse your mouth thoroughly, drink activated charcoal and do not neglect consulting a doctor.
However, if you do not deal with the sap of the plant, Dieffenbachia will also bring benefits. It purifies the indoor air from various toxins.
Scientific name
Dieffenbachia maculata Camille
Diseases and pests
The main enemies of Dieffenbachia are aphids, thrips, spider mites, scale insects, as well as mealybugs, well known to gardeners.
They need to be removed from the plant with a sponge well soaked in a soap solution. Then the flower must be washed well. If the plant is severely affected by pests, you need to treat it with a solution of actellik or karbofos, dissolving 15 drops in a liter of water.
Root rot can be indicated by a light gray coating, yellowing or wilting of leaves. In this case, you need to immediately transplant the plant into new disinfected soil and treat it with a systemic fungicide.
Rotten areas of the root system should be cut off with a sterile instrument, and the sections should be treated with crushed charcoal or ground cinnamon. From now on, you should water Dieffenbachia less often and more moderately.
Also, young leaves may turn yellow, dry out and fall off due to improper care (cold, draft, hard water or significant lack of fertilizer). However, the drying out of old leaves can also signal the inevitable aging of the plant.
Under favorable conditions and proper care at home, Dieffenbachia "Camilla" grows amazingly quickly. In five years it can reach a height of two meters or even greater.
Useful video
Below you can watch a video about Dieffenbachia transplantation:
DIEFENBACHIA - DISEASES and pests in PICTURES. - Our garden
Dieffenbachia gets damaged scale insects, spider mites, mealybugs, aphids And thrips .
If not properly cared for, its leaves may fall off or turn yellow, and some of the leaves and stems may rot.
1. Lower leaves Dieffenbachia
fall off. Too cold.
Move the plant to a higher location
2. Dieffenbachia turns yellow and dries out
(lower dieffenbachia leaves
yellowed, dry) .
Give the plant a chance
dry until it
will recover. Then water
less often, especially in winter.
3. Parts of leaves and stems
Dieffenbachia rotted and became
mucous.
Due to spraying from above when
low temperature. Stop it
Sprinkle these areas with sulfur.
4. Leaves Dieffenbachia on
small at the top .
Not enough light. Put in
brighter place.
5. White woolly spots on
underside of leaves
dieffenbachia.
pests with a sponge soaked in
methyl alcohol or spend
spraying with malathion or
6. Leaves Dieffenbachia
turn yellow, cobwebs below.
derris, malathion or
Dieffenbachia leaves wither. The reason is too much lighting.
The lower leaves of Dieffenbachia wither and dry out. It is necessary to transfer (transplant) the plant into a larger container.
The color of Dieffenbachia leaves becomes less bright, the leaf has lost its variegation. The plant does not have enough light, the soil contains an excess of nitrogen and a deficiency of phosphorus, potassium and microelements.
U Dieffenbachia the tips of the leaves dry out, and sometimes the entire edge of the leaf. Necrosis. The most common defect during cultivation Dieffenbachia in room conditions. This can be explained by the following reasons: drafts - the plant is standing under the air flow from the air conditioner, low or high air temperature, or excessive dryness, stagnation of water in the pot, moistening the leaves in the dark or in direct sunlight.
Dieffenbachia leaves and stems curl. Soft false scale insects settle on shoots and leaves Dieffenbachia, usually on their upper side along the veins. Leaves and stems become deformed Dieffenbachia leaves are falling t, and herself Dieffenbachia is dying.
Noticeable harm Dieffenbachia applies sooty fungus, settling on the secretions of false scale insects.
U Dieffenbachia The lower leaves turn yellow, Dieffenbachia does not grow. Over time, the plant dies. Dieffenbachia root rot. The occurrence of this disease is promoted by excessively acidic soil with poor aeration and abundant watering. Destroy the plant or use surgical methods to treat root rot.
Dieffenbachia - diseases and pests.
Dieffenbachia is a fairly common houseplant. Caring for it is not difficult. However, flower growers are interested in Dieffenbachia, what to do in this case, how can you help the plant? In this article we will try to answer these questions.
But first you need to find out why the leaves of Dieffenbachia turn yellow, what reasons contribute to the development of this disease. They may be different. Conventionally, experts divide them into three categories: pests, diseases, and improper care.
Dieffenbachia: leaves turn yellow. What to do?
Dieffenbachia is a light and fairly unpretentious plant to care for. At the same time, it is accustomed to a humid tropical climate, and therefore has a number of maintenance requirements. First of all, the gardener in whose house Dieffenbachia grows needs to know: the leaves of the plant often turn yellow when there is insufficient light, improper watering and choice of soil, or low temperature.
Illumination
This indoor flower prefers diffuse lighting (2500-2700 lux) and does not tolerate direct sunlight. At the same time, it requires additional lighting in the dark season. With its help, daylight hours should be at least 10 hours. The bright sun causes the leaves to burn, after which brown dry spots appear on the surface of the leaf blade, which surround large yellowed areas.
To return the plant to an attractive appearance, the affected leaves must be cut off - they will not be able to recover. Insufficient lighting can negatively affect the overall color of the leaves. For a plant located in the shade, on a north window or at the back of the room, the leaves may initially turn pale, and then they will acquire a slight yellowish tint. But dealing with this problem is quite simple: just move the flower to a more illuminated place - and Dieffenbachia will again delight you with its bright color.
Watering
Another extremely important factor that many novice gardeners neglect. Dieffenbachia does not tolerate excessive amounts of moisture. In this case, the lower leaves turn yellow due to loss of roots. Yellowness in this situation is the last stage, which is accompanied by blackening of the stems. The gardener's mistake is waterlogging of the soil.
When the soil is not allowed to dry out between waterings, its aeration is disrupted, the roots suffocate and rot. This process is accelerated by the development of algae on the surface of the soil, the walls of the pot, as well as the sudden awakening of fungal spores. Is Dieffenbachia really doomed in this case too? In this case, the leaves turn yellow, giving you a signal that the plant needs urgent help. At the initial stage it is quite easy to save. Transplant the flower into another soil, after first clearing it of rotten roots.
Several external factors indicate the need for such a transplant:
To avoid the development of rot, a good drainage layer must be formed at the bottom of the pot, which will save the plant from excess moisture, and the pot must be selected according to the size of the root system.
Sometimes gardeners say that, despite the fact that Dieffenbachia is not watered too much, the leaves turn yellow. The reason may be that the soil is too dry. It is less destructive for the plant, but sometimes it can also cause its death.
And another mistake that many indoor plant lovers make is watering with hard water. It can cause the skin to turn pale and then yellow. To prevent and treat this disease, you should water the plant only with soft, settled water. Dieffenbachia needs to be fed from time to time
Why do the lower leaves of Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Soil selection and fertilizing
This plant loves moisture- and breathable, slightly acidic soils with high levels of humic acids, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. If the soil is chosen incorrectly, with an imbalance in the salt balance, then the roots will not be able to perform their functions, and nutrients will become unavailable to the flower.
Dieffenbachia will immediately demonstrate this to you with its appearance - the leaves (mainly the lower, adult ones) turn yellow. Moreover, the plant will slow down and new growth will be underdeveloped and weak. When the soil contains insufficient amounts of potassium and phosphorus, or when there is an excess of nitrogen, the upper leaves of the flower will turn yellow. Therefore, feeding should be strictly dosed. Balanced complex fertilizers for deciduous ornamental plants are most suitable for this.
Temperature
Dieffenbachia is a heat-loving plant. It requires moderate temperatures throughout the year. It can tolerate a short-term drop in temperature to +10...+12 °C, however, after suffering stress, the lower leaves will certainly turn yellow and fall off.
But Dieffenbachia categorically does not accept temperature changes and drafts. In this case, the leaves turn yellow first along the edges, and then begin to dry out. This is a very common phenomenon, which is called necrosis, and is well known to many gardeners.
Pests
Like most indoor plants, Dieffenbachia is susceptible to pest attacks. These are, first of all, aphids, scale insects, thrips, mealybugs, and the biggest problems are caused by spider mites. All these pests suck the juice from the shoots and leaves, which leads to depletion of the plant, retardation in its development and deformation of young shoots.
Often yellowed leaves signal an invasion of uninvited guests. This is especially common when the plant is infected with spider mites. Initially, groups of small yellow dots appear on the outer side of the leaf plate, which grow quite quickly, discoloring almost the entire leaf. At the same time, from the inside it (and the petiole) is covered with a thin cobweb, along which barely noticeable brown “dots” move. These are ticks.
Infected leaves cannot be restored; they should be cut off, and the entire plant should be washed well under warm water (about +40 °C), having first protected the soil from excess moisture. If this is not enough for a complete cure, then the procedure is repeated or the plant is treated with a special chemical preparation, for example, Fitoverm or Actellik.
Diseases
One of the most serious reasons for the appearance of yellow spots on Dieffenbachia leaves is viral, fungal and infectious diseases. They are not always easy to identify, however, we will describe the most common ones.
Fungal diseases
Anthracnose- large black-brown spots with a yellowish border appear on the edge of the leaf and next to it. Gradually the leaf dries out and dies.
Root rot- dark spots appear on the root collar; light gray mycelium can be seen on the roots. As the disease progresses, the leaves turn yellow, droop, and the plant dies. The fungus is transferred through the soil and develops in a new place with excessive watering and high humidity.
Leaf spot- small brown spots with an orange border appear on the leaf blades. Gradually they grow and cover the entire surface of the leaf. Infection occurs through the remains of diseased leaves and water. The disease is aggravated by waterlogging.
Preventive measures in the fight against fungal diseases include:
When the first suspicious signs of a disease are detected, the plant must be treated with a systemic fungicide, for example, “Fundazol” or “Vitaros”.
Bacterial diseases
The most dangerous of them is bacteriosis It leads to the death of the plant. On an infected flower, watery areas with clearly visible boundaries appear on the leaves and stems. Gradually they turn brown or turn brown. The disease is transmitted from one diseased plant to another through damage to the stems. Treatment for this disease has not yet been developed.
Viral diseases
Bronzing- yellow round or ring-shaped spots appear on the leaves. Gradually, the affected leaves wither, although they remain on the branches.
Viral mosaic- on the leaf plate you can immediately see numerous round spots of dark green color with a light center. The plant stops developing.
Viruses are transferred from an infected plant to a healthy one either through direct contact or by pests: aphids and thrips. It is impossible to cure the plant, so it is destroyed.
Leaf senescence
Dieffenbachia is a fast-growing plant, so it tends to bare its stem. There is no need to worry if one of the lower leaves of a flower has yellowed and fallen off, and this unpleasant defect has not spread to the rest of the plant. This shows that the natural process of aging and dying occurs.
