Peperomia indoor flowers. Peperomia
Peperomia- low-growing, decorative deciduous plant with rosettes of dense, dark green leaves on short, branching stems. Some varieties of flowers are decorated with light patterns in the form of veins, borders or spots.
The succulent came to us from tropical America. The main part of the varieties grow in Brazilian, Colombian, and Mexican forests. Most often they can be found as epiphytes growing on trees.
An unpretentious miniature peperomia with a compact root system is ideal for both a small office space or study, and for spacious winter gardens. Thanks to its modest size, up to 20 cm, it takes root well in the smallest pots and can even be planted with other plants. Some types of succulent reach 50 cm in height, for example peperomia obtufolia.
The flower is perennial; the annual growth of a young plant averages 12 cm. But the older the plant, the smaller and more unsightly its leaves become, so many varieties need periodic pruning and renewal.
| Annual growth averages 12 cm. | |
| Peperomia blooms from mid-spring to late summer. The inflorescences have an original, bizarre shape. | |
| The plant is easy to grow. |
| Perennial. |
Beneficial features
Peperomia silvery. Photo Needs regular care. In return, it improves the atmosphere in the house, cleanses the air of toxins and formaldehyde vapors, gives a good mood and well-being, creates a favorable aura, and saturates the room with oxygen. The house plant has a beneficial effect on the organs of the digestive system.
Features of growing at home. Briefly
Caring for the plant is not difficult. Peperomia at home is unpretentious and requires standard procedures and conditions:
| Temperature | Sudden changes are undesirable. In summer, the optimal temperature is 22-24C, 16-18C, at lower temperatures it is recommended to reduce watering. |
| Air humidity | Air humidity is not important for the plant, but the higher it is, the better. Daily spraying is required. |
| Lighting | Variegated species prefer bright, diffused light, while others need partial shade. Direct sunlight has a negative effect on the plant. |
| Watering | Moderate, as the topsoil dries out. In summer, at least 3 times a month, in winter - every 2.5-3 weeks. Soft water at room temperature is suitable for humidification. |
| Priming | The soil must be pH neutral and well drained. |
| Feeding and fertilizer | From late spring to early autumn it needs specialized liquid fertilizer. |
| Transfer | Replanting peperomia is required every spring, but you should not increase the size of the pot too much. |
| Reproduction | Reproduction occurs by stem, leaf cuttings, or seeds. |
| Features of cultivation | The peculiarities of cultivation include the plant’s love of heat and humidity. The ideal place would be a kitchen where there are no cold drafts. |
How to buy peperomia correctly
When choosing a plant to buy, you need to pay special attention to its appearance. The leaves should be juicy, elastic, bright, without powdery coating and brown scales. A plant with drooping, limp leaves in moist soil may indicate problems with the root system.
You should not buy such a flower, it can quickly die.
Bloom
Decorative deciduous succulent blooms in early spring and summer. The inflorescences are not particularly beautiful, but have unusual, bizarre shapes that attract the eye. In some species they look like a golf club, in others they look like the tails of mice, in others they look like a comb with many teeth.
The flowers included in the inflorescences are small in size and calm in color.
Temperature
Homemade peperomia is a heat-loving and shade-loving plant; it is not for nothing that in nature it grows in the lower tier of the tropical forest. It must be protected from sudden temperature changes, drafts and hypothermia. Optimal indicators are 16-24C.
Hygiene
The juicy, glossy leaves of the flower quickly become covered with dust. To prevent small debris from spoiling the appearance of the plant, it must be periodically cleaned with a damp cloth or rinsed in the shower.
Spraying
The optimal humidity level for a flower is 40-60%. A lack of humidity does not threaten the plant with anything serious, but it is better not to experiment and during dry periods increase the air humidity by periodic spraying. You can place a pot of indoor peperomia in pebbles and pour water into it to evaporate.
Lighting
Comfortable conditions for green-leaved forms of peperomia are diffused light, partial shade. In the summer, they will feel good on the windowsills of eastern, northern and western windows. In winter, the plant needs more light, and southern windows are suitable for growing.
For variegated species, brighter diffused light is needed, but from direct sunlight the design on the sheets will become discolored. Therefore, such varieties are grown on the south side, but placed in the light shade of other plants.
To ensure the vital activity of peperomia at home in winter, add additional lighting. It is necessary to extend daylight hours to 16 hours with the help of additional artificial lighting.
Watering
Loves moisture, but is extremely sensitive to waterlogging of the soil. Watering too frequently can cause root rot and flower death. Therefore, it is better to dry it out than to flood it. You can determine the need for watering by looking at the soil if it has dried to a depth of 3 cm. In the warm season, the soil dries out faster than in winter.
Water to moisten the soil should be several degrees warmer than the air in the room.
Pot
Before planting, you should evaluate the size of the peperomia root system. The larger it is, the larger the pot should be. You also need to take into account that it is recommended to add up to 3 cm of drainage layer to the bottom of the pot before planting.
Preference should be given to deep, tall ceramic containers.
Each subsequent replanting is done so that the roots in the pot are distributed evenly and are not located close to the soil surface.
Priming
The choice of substrate for planting peperomia should be taken seriously. Neutral or slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5 to 6.5 is preferred. Most commercially prepared soils have a high level of acidity and are not suitable. Therefore, 250-350 g of ash or dolomite flour is added to purchased soil for every 10 liters of substrate.
You can prepare suitable soil yourself. To do this, it is recommended to mix sand, humus and peat in proportions 1:1:1 and add 2-3 parts of leaf soil.
Before planting the plant in the soil, it must be treated against pests with a weak manganese solution. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay out drainage, at least 2-3 cm.
Feeding and fertilizer
The peperomia flower in indoor conditions requires constant fertilization. In the spring-summer period, fertilizing is carried out at least once every 2 weeks. Specialized complex organic and mineral products for decorative foliage plants are suitable.
The main thing is not to exceed the proportions and dosages specified in the instructions for the drug.
Peperomia transplant
Young plants under 3 years of age need annual replanting. Older flowers can last up to 3 years without changing soil and pot. Some varieties can withstand no replanting for up to 7 years.
The main criterion for the need to increase capacity is the appearance of the plant and the volume of the root system, which can grow into drainage holes or above the soil surface.
Trimming
To give the flower a more branched appearance, pinching the tops above 3-5 leaves or trimming the stem when it reaches a length of 18-20 cm will help. Cuttings and leaves can be rooted in water.
Is it possible to leave without care during the holidays?
When going on a trip, you need to take care of the flower in advance so that you don’t have to urgently resuscitate it later. To ensure that the plant feels good in the absence of proper care, place a layer of wet expanded clay on the soil, and place a tray with wet peat under the pot. It is better to temporarily remove peperomia from the window to the floor.
Growing peperomia from seeds
Before planting, flower seeds do not need long soaking. To speed up germination, they are carefully cleaned of wax deposits on one side and placed in warm water for 40-50 minutes. At this time, the soil is prepared. Place drainage on the bottom of the pot, then a layer of soil with sphagnum. The seeds are placed in the substrate to a depth of 2-3 cm.
The container is left for a week in conditions of sufficient, diffuse lighting. After 7-10 days, the first shoots appear, which should be moistened regularly. Picking can be planned for 30 days after germination. The next plant transplant will be needed no earlier than in a year.
For planting seeds, choose a container 8-9 cm in diameter.
Reproduction
Plant division is quite simple, and several types of propagation are available.
Propagation of peperomia by cuttings
This is the most accessible and popular type of flower division. The cut cuttings are cleared of all leaves except the top ones, left to dry for 1-1.5 hours and planted for rooting in a sand-peat mixture for 1-1.5 months.
The soil temperature should be at least 25C. Many species can be rooted in water. To do this, place the cuttings in warm water and wait for roots to form.
Peperomia propagation by leaf
A leaf separated from the cutting with a petiole of at least 1 cm is treated with root and immersed in a sand-peat mixture. The container is covered with a bag on top and left at a temperature of 19-21 degrees under diffused lighting.
For 1-1.5 months, the soil is moderately moistened, and the pot is turned towards the light so that new rosettes at the base of the leaf form evenly. Then the new root shoots are divided and planted. Their flowering is possible already in the first year.
Some plant varieties, such as silver peperomia, can reproduce from parts of the leaves. The main condition is the presence of a minimum part with which the leaf is attached to the stem.
Diseases and pests
The following problems may arise during cultivation:
- Leaves droop and fall– insufficient watering. In winter, the reason may be non-compliance with the temperature regime.
- Leaf petioles turn black– excess moisture.
- Blistering appears on the leaves– excessive watering.
- Brown tips on leaves peperomia - exposure to draft or cold.
- Leaves become limp in winter– excess moisture, in summer – excess light.
- Leaves droop with sufficient watering– root rotting due to overwatering.
The most common pests are scale insects, thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites.
Types of Peperomia domestica with photos and names
Among the variety of plant species, the following can be distinguished, the most suitable for home cultivation.
Dense, fleshy, dark green leaves on short petioles. They have the shape of an ellipse or an inverse egg, the apex is blunt. The length of the leaf plate is 6-12 cm, width 2.5-5 cm.
Dense crown, leathery leaves, rich green color, similar to magnolia leaf blades.
Compact flower with wrinkled, raised leaves. Color – dark green, with brown grooves. Attached close to each other on long petioles of a soft pink hue. Blooms in summer with snow-white spikelets.
Peperomia silver (watermelon)
The ovoid, dense leaves up to 8 cm long are green in color with white, beige veins, reminiscent of watermelon rind. The plant is compact, grows no more than 11-13 cm.
An ampelous plant with oval, pointed leaves up to 5 cm in length. The stem has a pink tint and can curl around a support like a vine.
Perennial with large, dense leaf blades 14-16 cm long and 7-9 cm wide. The petioles are short, attached to the stem alternately. The leaves are dark green with a purple or red edge.
Whatever type settles into an apartment or office, it will certainly become a worthy decoration of the room.
Peperomia is still little known to Russian amateur home gardeners. But the plant is steadily gaining popularity. Leaves of various shapes and shades will not go unnoticed even in the largest collection of indoor plants. Additional advantages of the flower are its compactness (even miniature) and low maintenance requirements. And creating comfortable conditions for peperomia is very simple.
A climbing relative of the pepper with succulent properties
Peperomia is a genus belonging to the Pepper family (Piperaceae). These are mainly perennial shrubs, but there are also herbaceous plants. Both have the characteristics of succulents. The genus can boast of a very extensive representation. According to various sources, there are from 800 to 1000 species of peperomia in nature. About 50 have so far successfully adapted to the conditions of modern apartments.
The name of the plant is due to its appearance. Translated from Greek “peperi” means “pepper”, omos – “similar, similar”. If you cut a leaf, a characteristic aroma will spread throughout the room.
Proponents of the teachings of Feng Shui have adopted the American nickname peperomia (“close-knit family”) and recommend that newlyweds or families whose members often disagree and cannot come to an agreement be sure to acquire at least one plant. The flower helps them “get used to” each other and smooth out conflicts, absorbing negativity and spreading the “right” vibes that cause a good mood.
Peperomia are found in almost any tropical forest. Especially many of them were found in South and Central America, Southeast Asia, and India. Under the canopy of the jungle, peperomia can exist both as an ordinary plant, receiving nutrition from the soil, and as an epiphyte, taking root on tree trunks.
The ability of peperomia to store moisture and nutrients (a quality inherent in all succulents) is evidenced by juicy, fleshy stems and thick, dense leaves. In some varieties, the distance between the leaves is minimal - the stems are literally studded with them, the plant itself resembles a rosette.
The shape of the leaves varies significantly depending on the species (they can be almost round, ovoid, heart-shaped, lanceolate, but always whole and with a short petiole). The norm is a soft short edge on both or one side, “wrinkling”. But most peperomia have smooth, shiny leaves. Even a single-color sheet plate looks very elegant, not to mention varieties with different patterns in the form of spots, stripes, and strokes.
The palette is very rich - in addition to the traditional green color, the leaves can be brownish, golden, silver, olive, dark emerald.
Peperomia often blooms, even at home, but this phenomenon often causes anxiety among gardeners, especially beginners. Her flowers are completely different from what most people associate with flowers. They are very small, collected in thin whitish curving ears, similar to mouse tails, with no petals. On a healthy adult plant, 12–15 inflorescences are formed simultaneously. If you don’t know exactly what it is, you can easily suspect some exotic disease contracted by a flower in its historical homeland.
After 1.5–2 months, the cob is covered with tiny dry balls. Ripe fruits are separated from it with a light touch.
Under optimal conditions, flowering can generally last almost the entire year. Peperomia does not need a rest period.
The plant is compact, even miniature. The tallest peperomias do not grow more than 60 cm. The average is 35–40 cm.
The flower looks great in aquariums and bottle gardens.
Peperomia cannot boast of a growth rate (about 15 cm annually). At first it is an upright bush. As they lengthen, the stems begin to droop. If you do not prune, the old shoots located below will hang freely from the edges of the pot, and the young shoots will stick up and to the sides from the middle of the container.
Peperomia is not only beautiful, but also useful. It has been scientifically proven that it secretes phytoncides that destroy pathogenic bacteria (streptococci, staphylococci, sarcina). Their content in the air is reduced by 45–70%. Several pots of plants in the room are an excellent prevention of colds. You can also put them in the nursery - peperomia is not poisonous. There is also some evidence to suggest that it has a positive effect on the digestive system and gallbladder.
Varieties popular among amateur gardeners: clusifolia, magnoliafolia, blunt-leaved and others
Almost all peperomia found in indoor floriculture are of natural origin. Breeders have not yet taken this plant seriously. Most Popular:
- Velvety (velutina). The leaf blade is beet-colored and smooth below, velvety on top (except for the veins) and bright green. The veins are highlighted in light green or silver.
- Dusiaefolia. One of the largest representatives of the genus - about 50 cm in height. The leaves are 12–15 cm long, hard to the touch, almost “wooden”, green with a reddish tint and a purple border. There is a selection variety Variegata - olive, cream or reddish-yellow veins and a dark purple border.
- Silver (argyreia), or Sanders (sandersii). Low (up to 30 cm), intensively branching bush. The leaves are arranged very often, as if in rosettes. The petioles are long - about 10 cm and are attached not to the edge of the leaf blade, but almost to its center. A slight “pearl” shine is visible in the light.
- Shriveled or wrinkled (Peperomia caperata). Maximum height is 10–12 m. Leaf length is no more than 3 cm. Flowering has some decorative value - numerous snow-white spikelets look impressive against the background of dark greenery.
- Pereskiaefolia. The leaves are about 5 cm long, ellipse-shaped, pointed, very dense.
- Magnoliafolia (magnoliaefolia). Bush about 40 cm high, intensively branching. The shape of the leaves is very diverse - from almost regular circles to highly elongated ellipses or spades pointed at the ends. The breeding hybrid Variegata is distinguished by the presence of a pattern in the form of irregularly shaped spots of yellowish, silvery-white and cream colors.
- Obtusifolia. It is very similar to peperomia magnoliafolia; only specialists in the field of botany can distinguish them, distinguishing the bush that is somewhat more pressed to the ground, less foliage and a more rounded leaf shape. Selection hybrids - Alba (milky green or cream leaves), Albo-variegata (light olive center of the leaf blade and an irregularly shaped cream spot around it).
- Whorled (verticillata). Very short and fleshy stems, leaf petioles are almost absent. The length of the olive-colored leaf is no more than 2 cm. The appearance of the plant can vary significantly depending on environmental conditions. The higher the humidity, the greater the intervals between the leaves; they themselves are larger and have less edge.
- Round-leaved (rotundifolia). Very thin (no more than 1–2 mm) brick-colored stems immediately droop, so the plant spreads along the ground. The leaves are small (0.5–0.7 cm in diameter), almost round. The edge present on young leaves disappears with age.
- Polycarpal (polybotrya). A herbaceous plant with almost no branches. The leaves are large (8–10 cm), egg-shaped.
- Tender or pleasant (blanda). The erect stems, about 35 cm high, practically do not branch. Leaves have a pattern of purple spots, drops and edges on a green background that fades with age.
- Spotted or multi-spotted (maculosa). The leaves are very dark on top and, on the contrary, pale green below. The appearance of the inflorescences is atypical - they reach a height of 45–50 cm and are colored dark brown.
- Gray-silver (griseo-argentea). The leaves form "rosettes" lying on the ground, silver-gray or pale green with a metallic sheen. Selective hybrid - Blackie or Nigra with almost black leaves.
- Peperomia Fraser, or Fraser (fraseri), or mignonette (resedaeflora). From below the leaves “twist” into rosettes, from above the intervals between them increase. The inflorescences are quite beautiful - the flowers are collected in snow-white panicles, consisting of individual thin spikelets (a bit like mignonette). There is even a scent.
- Reddish (rubella). The stems are thin, drooping, with a reddish tint; the leaves have the same shade below. They are very small.
- Creeping (serpens). Well suited for growing in the ampel method.
- Gray-haired (incana). A rather tall subshrub, densely covered with white “lint”.
- Peperomia Rosso (rosso). The leaves are very elongated in length and fit tightly to each other, forming something similar to flowers or stars. The species basically does not bloom.
- Peperomia Happy Bean. The leaves are similar in shape to bean pods - this is where the name comes from. They are quite thin and do not unfold completely. Bush about 15–20 cm high.
- Naked, or heady (glabella). The stems are very thin, with a pinkish tint. The leaves are no more than 5 cm long, almost round.
- Marble (marmorata). The pattern imitates the veins on marble. The largest leaves are located at the edges and below on longer petioles. In the center of the bush they are significantly smaller.
- Golden leaf (aurea). From above, the leaf plate resembles a mosaic, laid out from dark green, yellowish and golden pieces of glass.
- Peperomia Foster (fosteriana). The pattern repeats the veins in light green.
- Peperomia Caperata Lillian. The snow-white inflorescences look like the bell of a gramophone or a lily.
Photo gallery: Peperomia Caperata Lilian, wrinkled, round-leaved and other domestic species with different leaf shapes and colors
Caperata Lillian flowers look like miniature lilies 
Peperomia Foster 
The most beautiful of Peperomia goldenfolia are the young leaves. 
Marbled peperomia quite successfully imitates the characteristic pattern 
Peperomia glabra leaves look like coins 
Peperomia Happy Bean does not fully unfold even fully formed leaves. 
Peperomia Rosso appears to have no stems at all. 
Gray peperomia cannot be sprayed - this negatively affects the decorative appearance of the leaves. 
Peperomia creeping in nature is a climbing vine 
Peperomia reddish has very small leaves. 
Peperonia Fraser, unlike other species, blooms quite nicely 
The leaves of peperomia gray-silver look as if they have been coated with a metallic coating. 
Peperomia spotted leaf plate has a spectacular contrast 
Peperomia tender - a very ornamental plant 
In peperomia, the multi-tasseled stalk is attached to the leaf in a very unusual way 
Peperomia roundifolia has very thin stems 
Peperomia whorled changes its appearance, adapting to environmental conditions 
Only a botany specialist can distinguish peperomia obtufolia from magnoliafolia. 
The dark scarlet stems of peperomia magnoliafolia contrast beautifully with the bright green leaves 
Peperomia perestrofolia is well suited for growing in an ampelous manner. 
Pereromiya corrugata is one of the most popular species in home floriculture 
In the sun, silvery peperomia slightly shimmers with mother-of-pearl 
Peperomia clusifolia is a creation of nature, although it is hard to believe 
Peperomia velvety has very showy dark leaves. 
Peperomia chisel is distinguished by unusually “folded” leaves
Sometimes in flower shops you can see something called “peperomia mix”. This is not a special variety, but several varieties of the plant, most often the smallest ones, planted together in one pot.
How to create suitable conditions for plants at home
The habitat of peperomia is hot and humid forests. Moreover, which is quite atypical for tropical plants, it is practically indifferent to humidity and will not require the gardener to turn the apartment into a sauna. The flower does not have a pronounced dormant period, so the conditions remain constant throughout the year.
Table: microclimate required for peperomia
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location |
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| Lighting |
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| Temperature |
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| Humidity |
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Planting and transplanting
It is better not to disturb peperomia unless absolutely necessary. Therefore, only plants under 3 years old are replanted annually. Adult flowers are transferred to a new pot every 2–3 years, at the beginning of spring. The smaller the leaves, the more often the plants are replanted.
The time for transplantation has clearly come if the peperomia, without any additional alarming symptoms, almost stops growing, the roots stick out from the drainage hole. The substrate in the pot has already become excessively compacted, and the flower does not like it.
The container is selected to be low but wide, each time increasing its diameter by about 1.5 times. A pot that is too large is undesirable - peperomia does not have a growth rate anyway, and in this case all the energy will be spent on “developing” the new space by the root system.
The substrate is prepared so that neither air nor moisture is retained in it:
- Universal soil for succulents, leaf humus, peat chips and coarse river sand (5:2:2:2).
- Soil for palm trees or ficus and perlite or vermiculite (8:1).
- Leafy garden soil, humus, crushed coconut fiber or moss, small (1–3 mm in diameter) expanded clay (about equal parts).
However, problems with the soil can be avoided if you grow peperomia hydroponically.
Plants look very impressive in compositions that recreate their natural habitat, for example, on driftwood or in moss.
The transplant procedure is simple:
- Fill one third of the volume of the new pot with drainage. It is advisable to add at least a few pieces of charcoal.
- Sprinkle a layer of substrate 1.5–2 cm thick on top. Lightly moisten and allow the water to absorb.
- Remove the plant from the container and place it together with the earthen lump in a new pot.
- Add soil in small portions between the flower and the walls of the pot and compact it gently. The ground should be 1–1.5 cm below the edge.
- Water the peperomia moderately again, put it in a warm place, and provide partial shade.
- After 12–15 days, you can return the pot to your “place of permanent registration.”
Video: how to transplant peperomia
How to properly care
Peperomia is quite unpretentious. But the plant responds gratefully to care, delighting the gardener with lush green or variegated caps of leaves.
Watering
The only thing that can cause difficulties for novice gardeners is watering. With excessive moisture, the roots of peperomia quickly rot. Therefore, it is important to find a “golden mean” and constantly adjust the intervals between procedures, based on the air temperature in the apartment and outside.
Water is poured into the pot until bubbles appear on the surface. Then wait 25–30 minutes and drain the excess from the pan. Between two waterings the soil should dry out, but not to such an extent that it begins to move away from the edges of the pot.
If in doubt, remember that peperomia, thanks to its “internal reserves,” tolerates a lack of moisture much easier than its excess. But you shouldn’t “test” the flower regularly - the leaves will begin to dry out and fall off.
For irrigation, use only water that has been standing for at least a day and heated to a temperature 2–3 ºС higher than it is now in the room. If there is no soft melt or rain water, add a few granules of citric acid to regular tap water. It neutralizes excess chlorine and fluoride.
Top dressing
Fertilizers are applied only during the active growing season, from approximately mid-March to the end of October every 15–20 days. Any liquid mineral complex designed specifically for succulents or decorative leafy indoor plants is suitable. The concentration recommended by the manufacturer is reduced by 1.5–2 times.
If you are not satisfied with the condition of the flower in winter, you can apply fertilizer, but not more than once a month.
Pruning for simple and ampel growing
To achieve greater bushiness, pinch each peperomia shoot, removing about a fifth of the length. If you carry out the procedure regularly, the bush will become almost spherical.
In peperomia grown in the ampel method, on the contrary, the long shoots along the edges of the pot are not touched, and the vegetation in the center is cut off, leaving about a third of the length.
Possible errors during cultivation
In general, peperomia react stoically to “adversities” caused by the inexperience of the grower, but their decorative effect may suffer significantly. Therefore, it is important to know what you need to do to correct your own mistakes.
Table: brown tips, spots on leaves and other consequences of improper care
| External manifestations | Probable Cause |
| The leaves, starting from the lowest ones, dry out and fall off. | The plant lacks moisture. Reduce the intervals between waterings. |
| First, the very tips, then the entire “edge” of the leaf blade turn brown and dry out. | The flower is in a draft and/or there are frequent sudden changes in air temperature in the room. |
| The leaves lose their tone and color, and gray-brown spots spread on the stems. | Rot develops due to too much watering, especially if the room is cooler than the flower needs. |
| The leaves become wrinkled, wither, and deformed. | Peperomia got sunburn. Shade the pot or find another place for it. |
| Healthy-looking leaves fall off abruptly and en masse. | The room is too cold. |
Diseases and insects dangerous to plants
The main thing a gardener should be wary of is root rot. But there are also some insects that, if not controlled, can destroy the flower.
Table: what diseases and pests does peperomia suffer from?
| Disease or pest | Symptoms | How to cope |
| Rapidly expanding “wet” gray-brown spots appear at the base of the stems and petioles, then spreading to the leaves. The roots soften and become slimy. | Any rot is very difficult to treat. You can save a flower only if you start taking measures by detecting the disease at an early stage.
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| Mealybug | The bottom of the leaf plate appears to be sprinkled with flour. At the same time, sticky translucent discharge appears. |
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| Thrips | Thin short “strokes” of beige color appear on the leaves - areas of dead tissue. The leaf plate acquires a silvery tint, becomes unpleasantly sticky, and becomes deformed. |
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| Shchitovka | The stems and leaves below are covered with almost flat, round, grayish-brown growths. The tissues around them turn yellow, dry out and die. |
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| Nematodes | Rapidly increasing, irregularly shaped areas of dead tissue appear on the leaves. They become deformed, wither and dry out. There are dark spherical swellings on the roots. |
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| Spider mite | The petioles of the leaves are “woven” to the stems with the thinnest, almost transparent threads, similar to a cobweb. Affected leaves dry out very quickly. |
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Photo gallery: diseases and pests of peperomia
Mealybug can destroy a plant in a short time
Root rot is a disease that can only be cured if it is noticed in time. Reproduction
Reproduction of peperomia is a simple procedure that even a novice gardener can handle. There is no shortage of planting material.
The generative method is possible and easy
Peperomia seeds are not difficult to obtain. Even at home, the plant readily blooms. Ripe seeds are placed in paper bags and stored in a dark, dry, cool place until March-April.
Sowing order:
- Shallow flat containers are filled with a mixture of coarse river sand and universal soil for decorative leafy indoor plants.
- The soil is watered moderately.
- The seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil and sprinkled on top with a layer of soil 1.5–2 mm thick.
- The plantings are sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or plastic film, creating a greenhouse.
- The seeds are provided with bright light and a constant temperature of 24–27 ºС.Bottom heating is desirable. The greenhouse is ventilated daily for 5–7 minutes, preventing the formation of condensation and the development of rot.
- As the soil dries, spray it.
- Seedlings with 1–2 mature leaves are planted in small individual containers in a mixture of peat chips, universal soil, fertile turf and sand (2:2:1:1).
- When 5–6 leaves appear (in about six months), peperomia are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 7–8 cm and cared for as for adult plants.
Rooting cuttings
A peperomia cutting is the tip of the shoot or the middle part of the stem cleared of leaves. It is necessary to have at least one (preferably 2-3) “nodes” - points of growth. Rooting occurs on average in 8 out of 10 cases.
You can even use a leaf, but only taken from a plant at least 3 years old, completely healthy and with a petiole shortened to a minimum.
- Cuttings are cut in late spring or early summer with a sharp, disinfected knife.
- Planting material, cut side down, is lowered into a container with a solution of any root formation stimulator or potassium permanganate for 2–3 hours.
- The sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk or activated carbon, and the cuttings are dried for about a day.
- Peperomia are rooted in water, sand, vermiculite, peat chips, and moss. The apical cuttings are stuck into the substrate with the cut down, the stem cuttings are laid horizontally.
- The plantings are covered with glass jars or cut plastic bottles, bottom heating is provided and the temperature is 25–27 ºС.
- The substrate is kept slightly moist at all times.
- Under optimal conditions, roots will appear in 20–25 days. Wait another week, transplant the cuttings into normal soil and care as usual.
Dividing a bush when transplanting into a new pot
The division of a large peperomia bush into several small ones occurs simultaneously with spring replanting. The procedure does not change, only one step is added - dividing the roots with a sharp, clean knife. To prevent rot, the sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
Peperomia is a genus of herbaceous plants from the Pepper family. More than a thousand of its species are found in nature, growing in the tropical and subtropical climates of Central and South America. The name of the culture comes from the words "peperi" (pepper) and "homois" (similar). Recesses are very diverse. These are perennial or perennial shrubs, subshrubs, or hanging plants with different shapes and colors of leaves.
Types and varieties of peperomia for growing at home
The species diversity of the plant is enormous. Moreover, all types can differ significantly from each other. For cultivation at home, a little more than a dozen types of pereromia and their varieties are used.
Velvety (velutina)
The origin of the species is Ecuador. It is a herbaceous perennial with an upright stem with a dark red edge. The leaves are round, arranged alternately on petioles 1 cm long. Their surface is decorated with bright greenish veins. The surface of the leaf blades can be smooth or pubescent.
Clusiifolia
An erect species with long dark green leaves on very short petioles. The length of the leaves reaches 15 cm. They are wedge-shaped at the base and have a blunt apex. The main decoration of the look is the purple edging.
Reddish (rubella)
Branched perennial with thin red stems. The leaves are elongated, oval. Arranged oppositely, 4 pieces each. The leaf blades are green on top and red on the underside.
Multispotted (maculosa)
A low plant with a green stem and brown spots on it. The leaves are smooth and shiny. There are white veins on a green background.
Marble (marmorata)
The species is native to Brazil. This is a low-growing perennial, represented by a lush bush. The leaves are heart-shaped green, with brownish veins running from the base to the apex.
Creeping (serpens)
Epiphytic perennial with recumbent or hanging stems. The leaves are ovate, flattened, with a heart-shaped groove at the base. The color of the leaf blades can be green or variegated. The species is grown as an ampelous plant.
Pleasant (blanda)
Perennial species with densely pubescent stems. The leaves are small, oval, located opposite each other in 3-4 pieces. The outer part of the leaves is green, the underside is red.
Gray-haired (incana)
A herbaceous plant with long stems up to 0.5 m. At first they are vertical, but over the years they begin to droop. The leaves are sparsely scattered, round in shape, slightly tapering towards the apex. Both stems and leaves have a white edge, creating a graying effect.
Silver (argyreia)
The species may be either a stemless epiphyte or a terrestrial perennial plant. The petioles on which the leaves are located grow from the root. The leaves are dense, fleshy, more than 10 cm long, and silver in color. The green veins have whitish stripes.
Wrinkled (caperata)
The bush is about 10 cm high. Leaves immediately grow from the roots. Petioles are ribbed, pink. On the surface of the leaves there are many veins that are pressed into them. The leaves themselves are green, the veins are brown. The species is very demanding of heat. It is grown as a flowering ornamental plant.
Home care
Peperomia can be grown as a houseplant. But in order for it to have an attractive decorative appearance, it needs to create conditions that are close to natural.
Location and lighting
To choose the right place for peperomia, you need to pay attention to the color of its leaves. Variegated species need bright, diffused lighting. Windows on the western and eastern sides of the room are suitable for them.
Plants with green leaves can be placed in a more shaded location. Any type of peperomia is afraid of direct sun. Excess ultraviolet radiation damages the leaf plate. The plant does not have a pronounced dormant period, so in winter it needs to be provided with additional lighting. The culture feels quite good under artificial lighting.
Choosing a flowerpot
It is better to choose a container for peperomia that is shallow (due to the undeveloped root system) and not very wide. If the pot is too loose, the plant will become sick and lose its decorative appearance. The soil will begin to sour and the roots will rot. With each transplant, take a pot a few centimeters larger than the old one. The material of the pot may vary. The main thing is that there are holes at the bottom for drainage.
Soil and drainage
Peperomia can grow only in light, well-permeable soil. Heavy soil does not allow the roots to breathe, which is why they die.
A mixture of:
- peat (1);
- sand (1);
- leaf soil (2);
- humus (1).
If you cannot prepare the substrate yourself, you can buy a mixture for Saintpaulias or succulents. Be sure to line the bottom of the pot with a drainage layer of expanded clay or pieces of broken brick.
Planting and transplanting
Peperomia does not need frequent transplants. Its roots grow slowly, so 1 transplant every 2 years or less is sufficient.
Transplant procedure:
- Fill the pot with a layer of at least 4-5 cm of drainage. Sprinkle it with a little soil.
- Carefully remove the plant along with the soil from the old container.
- Transfer it to a new pot and cover the voids with soil.
- Do not feed the bush for a month after transplantation; water it very carefully.
Visual video - instructions for transplanting Peperomia using the transshipment method:
Temperature and humidity
Peperomia requires stable warmth throughout the year. Optimal conditions for normal development are +20-22°C. In winter, the temperature should not fall below +17-18°C.
If the plant is located on a windowsill, then to avoid hypothermia of the roots, you can place a piece of foam under the pot.
The crop has no special requirements for humidity. Although it naturally grows in the tropics, it can withstand dry air. Species with green dense foliage survive in warm rooms and without spraying. Peperomia with delicate leaves tolerate dry air more difficult. Therefore, it is advisable to spray them periodically in the summer. It is better not to spray varieties with pubescent and folded leaves at all.
Important! Peperomia should not be placed in a draft. In summer, it is not recommended to take the plant out into the fresh air.
Feeding and fertilizers
During the growing season, the plant needs feeding once every 2 weeks. Mineral complex fertilizers for indoor crops are used for it. In winter, fertilizing is not stopped completely, but it is applied no more than once a month.
Watering
The crop is able to accumulate moisture in its leaves. Therefore, it can survive short droughts. In summer, it is advisable to moisten the soil 2 times a month. In winter, watering is reduced. It is necessary that the soil has time to dry completely between waterings. It is important to ensure that the soil does not stagnate and the soil does not dry out. Both harm the plant.
Trimming
Only large and ampelous types of peperomia should be trimmed. Pinching the tops and weak stems stimulates the growth of new side shoots and gives the shrub a decorative appearance. Peduncles are cut off during flowering. They do not have any special decorative value, and the plant has to spend too much energy on flowering.
In low-growing species, only dry, damaged areas should be pruned. It is better to prune peperomia either at the end of the growing season or at the beginning of spring.
Reproduction methods
The culture is propagated by several methods.
Seeds
Sowing is carried out in March-April. A mixture of leaf soil and sand (1:1) is poured into the bowls. Sow seeds and water them. Cover with film and place in a room with a temperature of +25 degrees. Periodically, the cover is removed to ventilate and moisten the substrate.
Picking of seedlings is carried out after the appearance of 2 full leaves. You need to grow the plant from seeds in good light. When the seedlings have finally taken root, they are planted in pots with a diameter of 7 cm, with good drainage and a soil mixture suitable for adult plants.
Cuttings
Both apical and stem cuttings with at least 2 internodes are suitable for propagation. They are placed in a mixture of sand, humus and peat. You can root the plant in water. The main thing is that the room temperature is +25 degrees. After the roots appear, the cuttings are planted in separate pots and cared for like adult plants.
Leaf
Cut off a healthy leaf with a sharp knife or blade. Leave a short stem. Place in a sand-peat mixture or sphagnum. When the leaf sprouts roots, transplant it into a separate pot.
Dividing the bush
If an adult peperomia has grown too much, it can be transplanted by dividing it into several parts. The procedure is best carried out in the spring. You need to divide the bush carefully so as not to damage the roots.
Features of seasonal care
Since peperomia does not completely retire in winter, there are no significant differences in seasonal care. The plant needs warmth throughout the year. The temperature should not be allowed to drop below +18 degrees. The culture also needs good lighting. Watering should be moderate. But in summer they are more abundant, in winter they are rare. You need to feed the flower all year round: in summer - 2 times a month, in winter - no more than once a month.
Care errors and their elimination
The most common problems when growing Peperomia and how to eliminate them:
|
Problem |
Causes |
Solution |
|
Falling leaves |
Cold air, lack of moisture |
Do not overdry the earthen ball; keep the plant in a warm room throughout the year. |
|
Brown spots on leaf tips |
Temperature changes, drafts |
The room temperature must not fall below +17 degrees or be too high; you need to place the flowerpot away from drafts |
|
Root and stem rotting |
Soil waterlogging |
Water the soil when the soil dries out |
|
Wrinkling and wilting of leaves |
Sunburn |
Place the flowerpot under diffused light |
Like many indoor plants, peperomia has its positive and negative sides. It is believed that this plant has a beneficial effect on the energy in the house. It can smooth out the contradictory nature of its owner.
It is recommended to have a plant for those people who cannot find a common language with loved ones and are constantly in conflict. Peperomia maintains emotional purity in the house and also prevents the development of many diseases. It is recommended to grow the culture in the room of frequently ill children. It cleanses the air of bacteria by releasing phytoncides.
Peperomia is an ornamental plant with a wide variety of species. In nature, the plant is found in tropical latitudes. But it takes root well in indoor conditions, does not require complex care, and is very popular even among inexperienced gardeners.
Would you like to know more useful information about caring for Peperomia at home? Watch the video below:
| 1. Growing temperature: kept throughout the year at normal room temperature ranging from 18 to 25 ° C; in winter, the room temperature should not fall below 15 ° C. |
| 2. Lighting: a well-lit place without direct sun or partial shade, growing under artificial light is possible. |
| 3. Watering and air humidity: we water regularly in the warm season, but we dry the top layer of soil 3 - 5 cm thick in spring and summer, in the winter months we reduce the frequency of watering to a minimum, there is no need to increase air humidity. |
| 4. Peculiarities: some varieties of peperomia will require regular pruning and pinching, but in general this unpretentious flower can be recommended for growing by novice gardeners. |
| 5. Priming: tolerates a wide pH range; nutritious soil with excellent drainage is selected for cultivation. |
| 6. Top dressing: in spring and summer, feed monthly with a weak solution of fertilizers for succulent plants. In mid-autumn, feeding is stopped and resumed only in the spring, with the beginning of new growth. |
| 7. Reproduction: stem cuttings, dividing large plants when transplanting in spring and summer, seeds. |
Botanical name: Peperomia.
Peperomia flower - family . Peppery.
Homeland of the plant. The plant originates from Central and South America.
Description. Peperomia is a very large genus consisting of more than 1000 species of perennial, tropical, evergreen plants. Some species form a rosette of leaves, while others behave like vines, often growing as epiphytes - on the trunks of trees or large shrubs.
Leaves fleshy, green, often smooth, round or oblong-lanceolate, from 3 to 12 cm long. Variegated varieties may have veins or leaf edges expressed in a contrasting color; there are also varieties with burgundy leaves. 
In summer, the plant blooms white, pale pink or cream, fragrant flowers 8 - 10 cm long. Most species are grown for their attractive leaves and flowering is not particularly important.
After flowering in nature, they often form fruit- small round berries that dry completely when ripe.(loadmoduleid 824)
Height. In indoor culture, bush peperomia rarely exceeds 30 cm. tall and grows slowly. The shoots of vines can reach a length of 1 m.
The final size of the plants will depend on the varietal characteristics and maintenance conditions.
2. Peperomia - care at home
2.1.Reproduction
In spring and summer, vegetative propagation (cuttings) works well using stem cuttings length 5 - 7 cm.
- The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and the bases are dusted with growth hormones.
- Rooting of cuttings is carried out under a glass or transparent plastic cover. Place the pots with seedlings in a warm place with a temperature of 18 - 20° C.
- Young leaves are formed within 1 - 1.5 months.
Some varieties, especially variegated ones, are propagated by leaf cuttings directly in a glass of water.
It's also possible seed propagation or division large plants when transplanting.
2.2.Diseases and pests of indoor peperomia
- If there is insufficient air humidity, the plant begins to lose leaves.
- Excess water and insufficient drainage causes decay plants - the stems and leaves turn black, This happens especially often in autumn and winter.
- When there is not enough light the leaves turn pale, and when exposed to direct sunlight during the daytime, the leaves can get burned.
- In low light the leaves are getting smaller and lose their attractive, bright color.
- Peperomia crumbles - loses its leaves with a sharp change in temperature conditions, especially if kept in a too cold room.
- Leaf diseases may cause rust.
Among the harmful insects, the flower can be attacked by spider mites, mealybugs, thrips, and scale insects. Nematodes can settle in the roots of plants, and the leaf blades wither and lose turgor.
Insects - pests
| Insect name | Signs of infection | Control measures |
| The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development | Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals: green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm. | |
| The leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown and black. Eventually the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason. | Traditional methods: destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70°C, hot bath - immersing the pot in a large container with water at a temperature of 55°C for 20 minutes. Chemicals: anthelmintics. | |
| Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. | Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik. | |
| The appearance of yellow spots on the leaf blades; small brown dots can be observed on the underside of the leaves. When pests spread, they cause leaves to turn yellow, dry out and fall off. | Traditional methods. Increase air humidity, wipe the surface of the leaves with a soap solution to reduce the number of pests. Preparations based on pyrethrum - 2-fold treatment with an interval of 7 - 10 days, spraying with tobacco infusion, infusion of yarrow or Persian chamomile, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Chemicals: dusting with sulfur powders, using anabasine sulfate in a soap solution. | |
| Scale insect and false scale insect | Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. When scale insects become widespread, they cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development | Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon. |
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2.3.When does peperomia bloom?
Summer However, for most varieties, flowering is not of particular interest.
2.4.Transplant
Peperomia is transplanted in the spring, with the beginning of new growth, when the pot or flowerpot becomes frankly too small for it (which happens very rarely, since the plants have a very modest root system) or there is a need to change the soil.
On average, mature plants need replanting every 2 years. You should not touch the plant unless necessary - it does not like frequent transplants.
2.5.Soil for peperomia
Nutritious soil with excellent drainage.
A mixture of peat, garden soil, leaf humus with the addition of coarse river sand to improve drainage is suitable.
The substrate must have neutral or slightly acidic pH, the soil in which the flower is grown should easily allow moisture and air to pass to the roots.
2.6.How to care and trim
Peperomia is not difficult to grow indoors if the basic requirements of the plant are met. Overall this is a very nice flower that will suit for beginner gardeners.
Peperomia does not tolerate either excess moisture or drought.
Varieties with long stems should be provided support for growth. The tips of young shoots are regularly pinching to get a profusely branching plant.
To maintain a compact form, some varieties will require pruning. It is also necessary to promptly trim old, diseased leaves, which spoil the appearance of the plant and can contribute to the spread of fungal diseases.
Pruning is carried out with a sharply sharpened and sterile instrument - pruning shears or a knife.
2.7.Watering
Watering should be regular in the warm season. Dry the soil to a depth between waterings 3 - 5 cm. In autumn, the frequency of watering is slightly reduced in accordance with the temperature.
In spring and summer, you can water plants by immersion in a large container with water for a few minutes, allowing excess moisture to drain through the drainage holes. In general, plants will prefer short periods of drought rather than overwatering.
During the autumn and winter months, the frequency of watering can be reduced according to the ambient temperature.
2.8.Conditions of maintenance - fertilizer
Peperomia is content modest feeding who conduct monthly from spring to autumn. Plants at rest are not fed.
2.9.Temperature
Peperomia can be grown at home all year round at normal room temperatures ranging from 20 to 25° C. Do not expose the plant to temperatures below 15°C.
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2.10.Lighting
Peperomia needs brightly lit location without access to direct sunlight. Variegated varieties can take sunbaths in the morning and evening hours; when grown in partial shade, their color fades and the leaves turn green. Green-leaved varieties can be grown in penumbra. In autumn and winter, you can provide the maximum possible lighting, as well as add light to the plants fluorescent lamps.
2.11.Spraying
In spring and summer, at elevated air temperatures and with central heating on, the air humidity should be increased. Place near the plant room humidifier or place the pot on tray with wet pebbles. Do not grow peperomia near heat sources or doorways where there are drafts.
2.12.Purpose
Peperomia are so diverse in their appearance that you can put together a whole collection from plants. Some varieties with lodging, creeping shoots can be used as ground cover plants at the foot of large trees or overhead plants, grown in hanging pots. Due to the spectacular appearance and very modest size of some varieties, peperomia has found wide use in compositions placed in florariums.
2.13.Note
Some plants may expose the lower part shoots and become less attractive - they are replaced with new ones obtained using cuttings. Peperomia is not poisonous.
Hydroponics.
3.Types:
3.1. Bush peperomia:
3.2. Peperomia caperata
A perennial evergreen compact plant up to 20 cm high with short green or reddish stems and thick, fleshy, heart-shaped leaves up to 4 cm long on tall petioles. The leaf blades are entire-edged, corrugated, with deep branched veins, dark green or burgundy in color, often with a metallic sheen. During the flowering period, the plants produce thin spikelets with small white flowers.
3.3.Peperomia Rosso
A native of Brazilian forests, it is a dwarf ornamental foliage plant with oblong-lanceolate dark green leaves. The venation is arcuate, the surface of the leaf blades is textured, glossy, the lower part of the leaves is painted bright red. Inflorescences are thin vertical spikelets with small pinkish flowers on red peduncles.
3.4. Peperomia "Lilian"
A compact South American plant up to 25 cm high with thick, heart-shaped green leaves with a glossy surface. The veins are slightly recessed into the leaf plates, and the underside of the leaves is painted in a lighter shade. Long leaf petioles and peduncles are colored pinkish or orange. At the tops of the peduncles, beautiful inflorescences are formed - cobs with many white or greenish flowers. On the outside, the inflorescences are covered with an elegant curved greenish blanket.
3.5.Peperomia obtusifolia
An evergreen, epiphytic, often variegated plant with thick, branching, brown, succulent stems, slightly curved at leaf nodes. The leaves are smooth, green, glossy, round, on small petioles. Variegated plants with various shapes of specks and stripes on the leaves are often found. During the flowering period, the plant produces thin spikes with small white flowers, slightly raised on the leaves.
3.6.Peperomia magnoliaefolia
A low decorative deciduous evergreen shrub with thick, succulent, brown, erect stems and large, oblong-oval, slightly curved, spoon-like leaves. The surface of the leaf blades is glossy; in variegated varieties, it has numerous stripes and specks of greenish, white, yellow or pink shades. Inflorescences are thin spikelets with miniature greenish flowers located on vertical leafless peduncles.
3.7. Peperomia clusiifolia
The variegated varieties of Peperomia clusifolia probably have the greatest number of color variations. The leaf shades of this large-leaved variety include green, white, yellow, pink in all sorts of combinations. The leaves are large, oblong-lanceolate, curved along the central vein. The height of the bush does not exceed 30 cm. Unlike most other species, it can tolerate wet soil and is successfully grown hydroponically.
3.8. Silver watermelon peperomia - Peperomia argyreia,
3.9.Peperomia watermelon
A charming evergreen perennial with large, heart-shaped leaves, colored like a watermelon with light and dark green stripes. The leaf petioles are long, burgundy, juicy. The inflorescences on branched peduncles consist of small yellowish flowers. As the plants age, they form a short, strong stem.
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3.10. Peperomia graveolens
Compact succulent peperomia up to 20 cm high with thick, fleshy, abundantly branching stems. The leaves are long, thick, succulent, bent along the central vein, the upper surface is colored light green, while the lower surface has a bright red tint. Vertical leafless peduncles are painted in a burgundy hue and bear inflorescences at the tops - spikelets with greenish-yellow small flowers.
3.11.Peperomia ferreyrae
A small evergreen succulent with powerful short shoots, on which long, succulent, sessile or short-stalked leaves 4 - 7 cm long are arranged in a spiral. An interesting feature of this species is that the upper edge of the leaves has a transparent surface, which allows the plant to absorb maximum sunlight Sveta. During the flowering period, short leafless peduncles appear at the tops of the shoots, bearing inflorescences on the tops - branched panicles with numerous yellowish flowers.
3.12. Peperomia ferreyrae Happy Bean
This species, of course, resembles Peperomia Ferreira in appearance, but differs in longer and thinner leaves.
3.13.Peperomia metallica "Columbiana"
Plants with short, thick, succulent shoots bearing lanceolate, slightly bent leaves. The upper surface of the leaf blades is painted in different shades of gray, green or brown, and the lower surface has a contrasting burgundy tint. A distinctive feature of the plant is the presence of a metallic sheen on the leaves. The peduncles are thin, with numerous yellowish flowers.
3.14. Peperomia dolabriformis
Another attractive foliage succulent, it has short, thick stems with very densely packed sessile, light green or light brownish leaves. At first glance, it seems that the leaf blades are bent in half. The upper cut of the leaves has a transparent surface, which allows the plant to transmit sunlight deep into the leaf. In the warm season, short flower stalks appear at the tops of the shoots and bear inflorescences - panicles of small greenish flowers.
3.15.Peperomia ampelous:
3.16.Peperomia glabella
A valuable ornamental plant that in nature can behave as an epiphyte or terrestrial bush. This peperomia develops quickly and forms long branched stems with round, glossy leaves on short petioles, colored green. There are variegated variations with a white or greenish border along the edge of the leaf blades.
3.17.Peperomia rotundifolia
Small-leaved species with thin, long, multiply branched brown or burgundy shoots. The leaves are thick, juicy, round, green or bluish-green, on short petioles. The lower surface of the leaves often has a lighter shade. In its natural environment it grows as an epiphyte.
3.18.Whorled peperomia - Peperomia verticillata
A very delicate species with thick, powerful shoots - vertical or hanging over the edges of pots, covered with sparse, long, fine hairs. The leaves are round, green, sessile, collected in whorls in tiers. The underside of the leaf blades can be painted in a contrasting reddish tint. During the flowering period, thin greenish spikelets with small flowers appear at the tops of the shoots.
3.19. Peperomia Angulata
An evergreen perennial hanging plant, resembling Tradescantia from afar. It has juicy, thin, light brown shoots that hang beautifully over the edges of the pots. The leaves are sessile or on short petioles, oblong-lanceolate, dark green, glossy, with arcuate veins. The veins on the surface of the leaf blades are often highlighted in a lighter shade. During the flowering period, the plant forms short peduncles with greenish spikelets at the tops of the shoots.
3.20. Peperomia rubella
A beautiful small-leaved species with long, branched, red shoots covered with sparse and long, velvety pubescence. The upper side of the leaves is bluish-green and has a glossy surface, while the lower edge is red and covered with long, sparse hairs. Often on the upper side of the leaves there is a beautiful pattern of thin, branched veins, highlighted by a lighter shade. The inflorescences are thin spikelets covered with small green flowers.
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Many indoor plant lovers prefer to grow peperomia, as it is quite unpretentious. This article will tell you in more detail about the types, propagation and care of this plant.
Peculiarities
South American countries are considered the homeland of this plant. All kinds of peperomia species grow in the tropical habitat of this region. Thus, there are both annuals and perennial specimens. It is noteworthy that the tallest specimens can reach more than 50 cm in height.
The leaves of this plant are usually fleshy and dense. There may be a wax-like plant coating on the top surface.
This substance is necessary in order to protect the internal environment of the flower from the effects of various unfavorable environmental factors.
Currently, there are indoor species of this plant. These flowers are quite easy to grow. Even a novice indoor plant lover can handle caring for peperomia. Each type of this plant has its own characteristics in the structure of individual elements. For example, plants may vary slightly in the shape and size of their leaves.
The color of the foliage also varies. The leaves are elongated, ellipsoidal or oval. Some specimens have rather small (even miniature) leaves, while others have larger ones. There are different types of such flowers based on the appearance of the leaf plate. It can be either flat or corrugated.
During flowering, several inflorescences appear on the flower. It is worth noting that they look rather discreet. Each inflorescence consists of several white flowers. The flower is small in size. Despite such discreet flowering, peperomia still complements the interior of the room well.
White flowers combined with fleshy, dense leaves create a cozy atmosphere in the house. This houseplant is not poisonous. Therefore, it can be placed not only in the living room, but even in the children's room. For good growth, the flower requires enough sunlight, as well as regular watering.
Varieties
Experts identify quite a few types of peperomia. Among them there are some quite popular ones, which They are in greatest demand among indoor plant lovers.
- One of them is Peperomia obtufolia. This flower is a perennial. Interestingly, this plant can grow not only on the ground, but also on trees. Its leaves are fleshy and dense to the touch. Their sizes are usually 3-6 cm wide and 9-11 cm long. The surface is corrugated, and the color of the leaves can be different - dark green, cream or white.
- Round-leaved peperomia- another type. This flower has thin shoots. Its leaves have a rich dark green color. The shape of the leaves is close to a circle. Experts note that this plant has the ability to grow on the ground, covering it with itself. Because of this property, this variety is used by some landscape designers to create interesting and memorable works.
- Silver Peperomia looks quite impressive in the room. One of the important features of this plant is that its lower leaves are located quite close to the ground. The shape of each leaf is oval. At the same time, their tip is slightly pointed. On the outer surface of the leaves there are elegant silver stripes, which gives the plant a special appearance.
- Headed peperomia "Glabella" refers to ampelous plants. It is characterized by having rather long shoots. The leaves are small in size and oval in shape. Experts note that such a plant is excellent for creating interesting floral compositions.
- Peperomia clusielifolia- a beautiful ornamental plant. It has rather bright elongated leaves of an elongated shape. The height of such a plant can be about 45 cm. This plant is an upright bush. A unique feature of this species is the color of the leaves in dark green and purple. The edging of the sheet is usually light.
- One of the massive types of peperomia is the ampelous type. This plant is characterized by the fact that its height can be up to 1.5 meters. In this case, the leaves have different colors. They can also differ in shape. There are also very interesting types, for example, "Watermelon". The flower received this name because the color of its leaves resembles a watermelon. So, on each sheet, rich green and light colors alternate. In this case, the petioles, through which the leaves are attached to the stem of the plant, have a reddish color. Such a flower in the interior looks quite bright and impressive.
- Variegate peperomia characterized by a special leaf color. They are dark green, reddish and beige in color. This flower looks like a bush.
It is the result of the productive work of breeding scientists. Some natural types of peperomia were chosen as the basis for creating this species.
- "Rosso"- another type of this plant. It belongs to the subshrub species. A plant grown indoors, as a rule, has a relatively small height - only 20-24 cm. Interestingly, the leaves attached to the stem grow in bunches. The peculiarity of this plant also lies in the special color of the foliage. Thus, the upper surface of the leaf, facing the sun’s rays, has a rich, bright green color, and the lower surface is reddish.
- Another decorative species is Peperomia Ferreira. Its leaves look as if they have grown together in the center. The length of each leaf is small - only 6-7 cm. Their color is bright green. This plant can have a height of about 27-30 cm. The leaves of this peperomia are quite dense, it requires proper watering. If the leaves are very dusty, they can be periodically sprayed with a spray bottle.
- "Graveolens"- succulent peperomia, which has a very bright appearance. Nature has awarded the flower with very beautiful leaves that certainly attract attention. Their upper surface is light green, and the lower surface is burgundy and even ruby. In this case, the leaves grow in such a way that they seem to curl towards the main shoot. Some indoor plant lovers note that this flower can be compared to coral in its appearance. At the same time, an even greater resemblance to a marine life can be achieved if the soil in which the flower is planted is covered with pebbles.
- "Polybotry" characterized by rather large leaves. Their color is rich green. The leaves have a round shape, but they become pointed towards the ends. The flower has a rather dense shoot, to which the leaves are attached.
- Whorled peperomia refers to perennial plants. The color of its leaves is gray-green. This plant got its name due to the way the leaves are attached to the shoot. Experts note that this flower is best propagated through cuttings.
- Pereskolea Peperomia characterized by the presence of small leaves. As a rule, they do not exceed 5 cm in length and 3 cm in width. The shape is ellipsoidal or diamond-shaped. At the same time, they are quite dense to the touch. Interestingly, close relatives of this flower grow in Venezuela, Colombia and Peru.
- Variegated Peperomia It looks very impressive in the interior.
Lovers of indoor plants should remember that this species is quite demanding on light. Insufficient lighting can cause various flower diseases, which will lead to poor growth.
- Large-leaved peperomia is a species that is quite often used in landscape design. The grown bush of this plant resembles a soft pillow in appearance. Its leaves have a rich green color and a round shape. If you look at the plant from a certain distance, you can notice a beautiful metallic sheen on the leaves.
Experts in caring for indoor plants recommend that when purchasing, be sure to pay attention to a specific type. Quite popular types include:“Green Gold”, “Ferreira”, “Tupolistnaya”, “Variegatnaya”, “Glabella”, “Whorled”, as well as a different mix of varieties.
Beginners who love indoor plants will find it quite easy to care for round-leaved peperomia at home.
Growing conditions
Peperomia is one of the indoor plants that are quite picky. However, in order for this flower to grow well and delight its owners with the beautiful color of its leaves, it requires certain microclimatic conditions. When creating them, experts recommend taking into account the type of flower.
Lighting
When creating the most favorable conditions for plant growth, it is imperative to focus on their original natural habitats. Peperomia is a resident of predominantly tropical regions. But at the same time, this plant prefers to grow in places with scattered sunlight. Strong insolation can be a damaging factor for this flower.
It is important to remember that prolonged contact with the sun can cause specific spots to appear on the leaves of the plant.
They look like areas with discoloration. So, the leaf may lose its beautiful natural dark green color and become lighter. Such sunburns, if the lighting for a flower is incorrectly selected, can appear on several of its leaves at once.
In order for the plant to grow well, it is recommended to create calmer conditions during the daytime.- for example, remove it from a windowsill that is brightly lit to another place. So that the flower does not need to be constantly moved from place to place, it should be immediately placed in an area of the apartment where there is sufficient lighting, but not too bright. Some experts in caring for such flowers recommend placing peperomia not on windowsills, but at a short distance from them.
It is worth noting that some types of flowers are more demanding of light. These include, for example, variegated specimens. In order to ensure adequate growth, they can also be placed on the windowsill. Quite often, variegated specimens are also placed on the shelves of cabinets indoors. With this placement, experts recommend that you monitor the condition of the flower. If its leaves begin to turn pale, then the plant should be urgently moved to a more illuminated place.
For peperomia that are sensitive to light, additional lighting can be provided in autumn and winter.
Experts recommend doing this, if possible, from mid-October until the end of February. At this time, the length of daylight hours is reduced. For a flower to grow well, it requires at least 15-16 hours of light exposure to the leaves.
Temperature and humidity
Peperomia is a plant that, when growing, does not require constant changes in temperature. Therefore, it is recommended to maintain the selected temperature, if possible, throughout the entire calendar year. Even in winter there is no special need to change it.
The flower is unpretentious and grows well at a temperature of about 22-24 degrees. However, even when the temperature drops to 20 degrees, it does not lag behind in its growth. Experts advise that the temperature in the room where the plant is located should not be allowed to change too much. So, if for some reason the temperature in the room drops to 14-15 degrees in winter, then the plant may simply get sick.
In order to avoid adverse consequences when the room temperature drops, you should definitely move the flower to more favorable conditions. So, peperomia needs to be urgently removed from the cold windowsill.
Peperomia adapts quite well to slight changes in indoor humidity. However, if this indicator is greatly reduced, flower growth can slow down significantly. To maintain optimal humidity, experts recommend, for example, spraying the pebbles that cover the soil with water. If the humidity in the room is slightly increased, then, according to the opinions of many experts, the vital activity of the plant will not be disrupted in any way.
Transfer
Peperomia usually feels pretty good after transplantation. The flower does not worsen its condition only if the transplant was performed correctly. Before moving the plant to another pot, you should determine its original age. Young specimens can be replanted once a year. More adults - once every 3 years.
Many lovers of house plants are interested in the question of how you can independently understand at what time a flower should be replanted. To do this, pay attention to the drainage holes at the bottom of the flower pot where the peperomia is located.
If the roots of the plant are already beginning to break through and come out of such a hole, then the flower can be transplanted into a larger pot. Pots made of ceramics are well suited for this.
The container for the flower should be selected taking into account the size of the plant. For most peperomia, pots with an elongated shape are suitable. Since this flower does not tolerate moisture accumulation at the roots quite well, expanded clay should be poured into the bottom of the container where it will be transplanted. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 2-2.5 cm.
Soil substrate is important for good plant growth. If the soil was chosen incorrectly, then the peperomia will not be able to properly please the eyes of its owners with spectacular green leaves. In order to make a good soil substrate, experts recommend mixing humus, peat and sand in approximately equal proportions. You can also add leaf soil to this mixture - approximately 2-3 parts.
For those who want to significantly save their time, soil for growing flowers can be purchased at a special store. This ready-made soil substrate already contains all the components required for good plant growth. After the flower is transplanted into a new pot, it should not be watered for several days.
Learn how to properly transplant peperomia in the next video.
How to care?
Even a beginner can handle caring for this spectacular plant. At home, you should definitely monitor the condition of the leaves. Also, in some cases, this plant must be fertilized with special components for active growth. An important condition for the good functioning of a flower is regular watering.
Top dressing
Enriching the plant with nutrients helps improve its growth. In order to feed your pet, experts recommend using complex preparations. They contain several components that have a beneficial effect on plant growth.
It is recommended to feed the plant in the spring and summer, when it is actively growing. However, you should not use the product too often, as this can lead to the opposite effect. Therefore, it is recommended to use such a complex product no more than once every 2 weeks. If such a drug is used in winter, then it should be used no more than once a month.
Watering
This flower should be watered regularly. At the same time, experts recommend not to forget about this simple procedure, since otherwise the plant will no longer be able to please its owners with beautiful fleshy leaves. If the leaves have lost volume and are not as elastic to the touch as before, then this is a reason to improve watering.
Since the plant does not have periods of rest in its life, it should be watered throughout the year. The amount of moisture required by a flower is determined taking into account many factors. These include not only the size of the plant, its type, but also the indicators of the indoor microclimate.
For example, in warmer seasons, a flower requires more active and abundant watering. In winter, watering should be moderate.
Often, many lovers of indoor plants have a question about what will happen to this plant if, for some reason, they forget to water it in a timely manner. Experts note that there will not be any serious adverse consequences. However, it is also recommended not to forget that this plant does not tolerate drought quite well.
Water the soil carefully. When watering, avoid excessive accumulation of water in the soil. The accumulation of water (especially frequent) can cause various diseases of the root system. This, as a rule, negatively affects the growth and vital activity of the flower. Therefore, after moderate watering of the plant, it should be thoroughly dried. To do this, you should wait a few days. Too frequent and abundant watering of peperomia is not required.
The quality of water when watering this plant is important. Experts note that if hard water is used for irrigation, this can lead to damage to the root system of the flower. It is better to water your home beauty with water that has been previously settled. If possible, you can use filtered water for irrigation. Some plant care experts recommend watering this plant with melt water. They recommend doing this procedure periodically.
Reproduction
There are different ways to propagate peperomia. The first of these is seeds. At the same time, experts recommend buying them only from trusted manufacturers. The type of flower must be indicated on the package with seeds. According to many home plant lovers, this method of plant propagation is quite complicated. Even with proper seed care, it is not always possible to get a beautiful and healthy plant. This is why novice gardeners are advised to choose alternative growing methods.
This flower also propagates through cuttings. In this case, cuttings can be harvested during the active growing season of the plant. First, you should determine the top of the cutting so that there is a single node on it, and then cut it off. After this, the future shoot of the plant should be transplanted into the ground.
The formation of the root system and further strengthening of the flower in the soil occurs, as a rule, a month after its planting.
In order for the cutting to take root in nutritious soil, it requires a certain temperature - about 24-25 degrees. Experts note that if the temperature drops below 10 degrees, the transplanted cuttings may die. Therefore, after cuttings and planting in the ground, you should definitely monitor the ambient temperature in the room.
Peperomia can also be propagated using leaves. In this case, almost the same principle is used as in cuttings. For propagation, it is recommended to choose a mature leaf with a small cutting. In this case, you should also carefully monitor the air temperature in the room, as with cuttings. After the young plant has grown and become stronger, it can be transplanted into another pot. Experts do not advise rushing with this. First, it is recommended to wait for the formation of a full-fledged root system and a set of leaves.
Diseases and pests
Since peperomia is quite resistant to the effects of various unfavorable conditions, it becomes ill quite rarely. However, improper care of a flower can cause it to develop specific diseases. Often, diseases of this plant are caused by too frequent or excessive watering. Stagnation of water in the soil contributes to disruption of the functioning of the root part of the plant, which leads to the development of diseases. Also, microbes often accumulate in constantly moist nutrient soil, which can cause dangerous plant diseases.
In order to promptly identify any deterioration in the life of a flower, experts recommend that you monitor the condition of its leaves. Changes in color, the appearance of any spots on the leaves, or their drooping are warning signs. If such symptoms appear, the plant should be treated urgently. In this case, you should definitely pay attention to how the flower was previously cared for - whether there was too frequent watering, and whether the plant was in a sufficiently lit place.
If using such preparations it is not possible to clear the leaves of pests, you can also use ready-made products with fungicidal properties. During treatment, be sure to reduce watering slightly, avoid overcrowding of plants and do not forget about good ventilation in the room. If several plants are placed on the windowsill at once, then the diseased flower should be removed from them. This forced quarantine measure will help protect other flowers from infection.
