Let's get acquainted with different types of echeveria using photos and brief descriptions. Stone rose - caring for echeveria at home Echeveria crimson

Among modern flower growers, both professional and beginners, unpretentious species, in particular succulents, are very and justifiably popular. They do not require careful home care and the creation of special lighting and humidity conditions, however, they bring a sultry desert “zest” to the interior. Echeveria, or echeveria, can easily be classified as such species.

Stone rose: description of echeveria and its differences from young

Echeveria is the brightest representative of the Crassulaceae family, an evergreen shrubby succulent with a short stem. In nature, there are about two hundred varieties of this plant. Common features for all varieties are the presence of a fibrous superficial root system and fleshy leaves collected in a rosette.

In nature, echeveria grows in Mexico and Latin America, on arid plains and small mountains with maximum sunlight, lack of regular moisture and rocky soil.

This species lends itself well to selection, which makes it possible to create a huge number of hybrids with excellent decorative qualities.

The leaf blade is from 3 cm to 30 cm, can be cylindrical or oval in shape, covered with a waxy coating, the tip of the leaf is pointed. The color of the rosette varies from light green to bluish, purple and red-brown tones. The height of some species reaches 70 cm. The flowers of the plant are bell-shaped and come in orange, red and yellow-green colors.

The second name of the flower - stone rose - it received due to the appearance of the rosette. This is also the name of some plants related to Echeveria.

Very often, echeveria is confused with another representative of the Tolstyankov family - the plant was young. Juvenile (sempervivum) is distinguished by its frost resistance, as well as its special method of reproduction - it produces “whiskers” on which “babies” are formed. The leaf blade of the young is thinner and lighter. Due to the lack of stems, the rosette is located directly on the substrate.

On the contrary, echeveria is very thermophilic, and with a lack of light its stem can stretch. The formation of “babies” occurs at the very base of the stem.

An echeveria arrangement looks great in a flat, wide pot, but keep in mind that, unlike juveniles, this rock rose will not survive outdoors

Domestic varieties with different leaf shapes and colors

Despite the fact that there are a huge number of varieties of echeveria, the most commonly grown by gardeners are the following varieties:

• Echeveria graceful (Elegans) is a bluish-green rosette of leaves covered with a light coating. The flowers are orange and red.
• Gibbiflora is an erect plant; the stem may branch slightly. The leaves have tubercles. Color ranges from light green to brown with light edges. The flowers are yellow-red in color.
• Bristle (Setosa Rose et Purp) is a stemless plant, dense rosettes are located directly on the substrate. The color is bright green, uniform. The flowers are small.
• Cushion (Pulvinata) is a subshrub up to 20 cm high. The flowers are red-yellow, with a pubescence, 1–2 cm in diameter. The leaves are bright green with silvery fuzz. There is a spine at the end of the leaf.
• Echeveria Shaviana, or Shaviana, is a dense, neat rosette on a small stem. Erect peduncles have pink flowers. The leaves are bluish-green, sometimes with a wavy edge.
• Echeveria Derenbergii has a creeping stem with neat rosettes at the end. The leaves are bluish-green, with a reddish tint along the edges. The color of the flowers is orange or yellow-red.
• Agave (Agavoides) is a small bushy plant with dense rosettes. The leaf blade is light green, yellowish or pink along the edge. The flowers are small, yellow-red.

Photo gallery: Elegant Echeveria and other varieties

Echeveria Sho has bluish-green leaves with a wavy edge.
At the tip of each Echeveria cushion leaf there is a small spine.
Echeveria bristlecone is densely covered with small bristles
The edges of the leaf blade of Echeveria agave are pink
Echeveria Derenberg has red leaf tips
Echeveria graceful with a lack of light takes on ampelous forms
There are growths on the leaves of humpback-flowered echeveria

Planting after purchase and replanting a flower

A new echeveria purchased in a store needs to be replanted urgently. Typically, the soil in which the plant is sold is unable to provide normal conditions for the life of the flower for a long time. Subsequently, to maintain the decorative appearance of the plant, it is replanted every two to three years..

Young specimens may require annual replanting.

Under natural conditions, Echeveria prefers rocky substrates that do not retain moisture. For growing in a pot, the optimal mixture is: stones, turf soil, sand (1:2:1), a small amount of charcoal. You can use standard soil for cacti, to which you can add any fine drainage.

Choose a wide, low pot, preferably ceramic. Depending on the diameter, one or more drainage holes are made in the bottom.

The transplant procedure is as follows:

1. Lay out drainage from stones, tiles or expanded clay about ¼ of the container.
2. The soil mixture is calcined for disinfection.
3. Add prepared substrate.
4. The transplanted plant is removed from the old soil, diseased and damaged roots are inspected and cut off. The sections are sprinkled with activated carbon
5. Echeveria is buried in well-moistened soil.

   In the first week, additional soil moisture will not be needed.

Making a mixed composition of succulents in a florarium

Currently, it is very popular to grow echeveria, alone or in combination with other succulents, in a florarium (small plant greenhouse), recreating the original desert or semi-desert landscape from one or more varieties of the flower. Echeverias will go well with plants such as:

• Kalanchoe,
• haworthia,
• cacti, both forest and desert,
• lithops,
• spurge,
• Crassula.

To make a florarium:

1. Take a glass transparent container of sufficient size and wipe the inside with alcohol.
2. Prepare succulents for planting, wash their roots, and dip them in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 30 seconds.
3. Pour a layer of oven-calcined or otherwise disinfected drainage, mixed with crushed activated carbon, up to a quarter of the height.
4. Then pour the same layer of soil on top.
5. Using tweezers, plant several echeverias of different varieties or create a composition of succulents.
6. Decorate the free space of soil: fill it with pebbles or colored soil (you can use aquarium soil), and place figures if desired.
7. Water the plants carefully with a small watering can.

   There is no need to cover a florarium with succulents with glass; they prefer dry air.

8. For care, provide bright lighting and less frequent watering than succulents grown in pots.

Be prepared for the fact that sooner or later the florarium will become too small for your plants and you will have to “populate” it again.

Care

Echeveria is unpretentious and can survive long-term drought. Particular attention should be paid to fragile leaves that will not tolerate neglect.

Table: optimal growing conditions depending on the season

Organization of watering and fertilization

Echeveria does not require frequent watering. In summer, the substrate is moistened as soon as it dries well, and in winter, watering is practically stopped.

Moisture should not get on the leaves, especially in the center of the rosette.

Plant feeding is carried out with universal mineral complexes for succulents and cacti. Fertilizers are applied in the spring-summer period once a month along with watering.

Flowering and dormancy

Most varieties of echeveria often bloom at home. The formation of buds occurs in plants that are at least two to three years old.

The flowering period usually begins in May-June and lasts about three weeks.

To encourage the plant to form inflorescences, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for it in the form of 12-hour lighting for 2 months and a room temperature within 15–18 °C. During this phase, echeveria requires regular watering and fertilization.

After active flowering, a dormant period begins, during which it is necessary to minimize watering and stop feeding. The rest period of echeveria lasts several months, until the end of winter, without loss of decorativeness.

In order for the plant to bloom again, during the dormant period it must be moved to a well-lit but cool place for the winter.

Problem solving

Subject to optimal growing conditions, the plant is rarely affected by pests and diseases. But if the microclimate is unsuitable or there are constant mistakes in care, for example, the owners are too zealous with watering, then the appearance of the echeveria worsens, and in the future the plant may die.

Table: the stem is stretched, the leaves are wrinkled - these and other care errors

Problems	Causes	Elimination
Slow growth; leaf shrinkage.	Lack of nutrients and moisture; pot too tight.	Transplant into a new wider pot, into a nutrient substrate; regular feeding; organization of optimal watering regime.
Wrinkling of rosette and leaves	Water scarcity	Water and move to a less hot place.
Pale leaves; pulling out the socket.	Lack of sunlight	Move the flower to a more illuminated place.
Blackening of leaves and stems	Low temperature content; watering too often.	Remove rotten leaves; establish the desired watering regime; Move the echeveria to a warmer room without drafts.
The appearance of spots on the leaf plate	Water getting on leaves; mechanical damage due to careless handling.	Handle the flower carefully when transplanting and watering.

If care errors are not corrected in time, echeveria loses its immunity and is subject to fungal and other infections, as well as attacks by pests.

Table: symptoms of diseases and pests and methods of combating them

Reproduction

To propagate echeveria, apical and root rosettes, as well as leaf plates, are used. For some varieties, propagation by seeds is possible, but in practice this is a very difficult method.

How to separate daughter sockets

This method is rightfully considered the simplest and most effective.

Stages of propagation by daughter rosettes:

How to propagate echeveria from leaf and apical cuttings

Echeveria cuttings take root quite easily, while the mother plant from which they are taken continues to grow.

Reproduction stages:

Video: rooting echeveria

One of the favorite plants of many gardeners is echeveria, or, in common parlance, “stone rose”. It equally elegantly decorates alpine hills and window sills of city apartments. In nature, this flower, like a flower carved from stone, grows in Mexico.

Many people are also attracted to this flower because of its ease of care.

Description and types

Echeveria (from the Latin Echeveria) is a low-growing shrub that has either a very short stem or no stem at all. The leaves are dense, fleshy, oval-shaped, with a sharp triangle at the end. It blooms with inflorescences of small bells 1-3 cm long. The peduncle can reach a size of 50 cm. Adult plants can scatter small rosettes around them. At home, the succulent grows slowly, usually reaching 10-30 cm.

This shrub has a wide variety of species. The most common categories are:

• Root system: filamentous or located on the surface.
• Stem: creeping varieties, the rosette hangs over the ground or is located on its surface.
• Rosette structure: thickened or fleshy.
• Color of plates: pink-violet, shades of red, all shades of green.
• Leaf color: yellow or red.

A wide variety of echeveria species will help you choose the best option for growing at home or in a garden flower garden. They are so different in appearance that you can grow different varieties of flowers at the same time and even mix different types with each other.

Echeveria agave Miranda

A magnificent succulent plant consisting of basal rosettes. In appearance it resembles a lotus flower. It can reach a height of 25-35 cm. The leaves are thick, hard, juicy, triangular in shape, up to 20 cm in diameter. It blooms in late autumn, early winter with small red or yellow flowers.

Interesting! Agave echeveria can be recognized by its smooth, hairless leaves, which are arranged symmetrically and have a wide variety of shades: blue, silver, rich yellow, soft pink. The tips of the leaves are colored purple.

Echeveria "Pearl of Nuremberg"

A hybrid plant with a thick, straight stem. It can reach a diameter of 6 cm. It is a representative of the creeping species. The leaves are round, spoon-shaped, 4 cm long and 2 cm wide, very delicate colors with a pinkish border, the most common: blue, gray, purple, pink. Blooms in spring, towards summer with rich yellow flowers.

Echeveria graceful

This is a perennial succulent, with a stem no more than 5 cm. It has small oblong leaves, only 2 cm wide and up to 6 cm long, emerald in color, the waxy coating gives the impression that they are covered with a silvery haze. The flower throws out many rosettes-daughters on long antennae, which is why it is popularly nicknamed “hen with chicks”.

Important! On the outer side of the leaf, Echeveria graceana has a small pile. There is no need to touch or wipe it, since its natural coating is easily damaged and cannot be restored, and the plant loses its grace.

Echeveria Lau

This species is named after the botanist who discovered it among other varieties of succulents and described its main features. The stem of the plant can reach 2-3 cm, the circumference - 15-20 cm. The rosettes of the flower are shaped like a rose. The round leaves are gray-blue in color; the leaves acquire this color due to a thick waxy coating, which is very easy to damage. Peduncles throw out beautiful sunny flowers, also covered with a waxy coating.

Important! This type of echeveria is more demanding to care for, unlike its relatives. When caring for it, you should pay great attention to timely watering and lighting.

Echeveria 'Miranda'

The trunk of the flower has several rosettes, so in its natural habitat it can stretch up to 70 cm. Outwardly it resembles a lotus flower. It has leaves of various colors: pink, lilac, silver, yellow.

Ehevirya Pulidonis

A very specific plant in structure and color. It has no stem, the diameter of the rosette is 15 cm. Its long, pointed leaves have a bluish color and a bright pink edging along the edge. Blooms with yellow bell-shaped buds.

Echeveria purpuzorum

The plant is small in volume and width, its maximum is 10×8 cm. Its main advantage is a rigid triangular leaf blade with a peaked tip, often their glossy surface is painted with specks or stripes. The foliage is olive or marsh color with brown splashes. At the end of spring, the bush throws out a peduncle up to 20 cm long, on which red buds with an orange tint are formed.

Echeveria Shaviana

It looks very similar to a head of cauliflower and has a thick short stem. Diameter 10 cm, rosette size 20 cm. The foliage is purple with a silvery tint, and has a pinkish corrugated ridge along the edge. Blooms in early summer. The peduncles are thick, not very tall, with several dozen pale pink flowers on the crown.

Interesting! Shaviana sheds most of its lush crown for the winter, during the dormant period.

Echeveria "Black Prince"

This species has the darkest color, its leaves are almost black, greenish at the base. Its loose rosette can reach 15 cm. It blooms with orange or red-brown bells.

Important! Black Echeveria needs excellent lighting and complete rest in winter.

How to ensure a comfortable stay of echeveria in the house

This plant loves a lot of light and is not afraid of exposure to direct sunlight. On the contrary, in the bright afternoon sun, the leaves of the flower begin to play with new colors. As observations show, in plants located on the windows on the south side of the apartment, the leaves are painted with crimson shades, and the flowers turn purple. Therefore, it is best to place pots with succulents on southern windowsills.

Important! A young plant must be gradually adapted to excess sunlight, otherwise it may burn.

For long and beautiful flowering, the plant needs to be provided with sufficient lighting for 12-13 hours a day. In summer, the flower is moved to the garden or to the balcony and placed so that it is in the sun most of the day. In landscape design, it is often practiced to transplant a stone rose onto an alpine hill.

In summer and spring, the plant will feel comfortable at an air temperature of 30 degrees. In the cold season, in the room where the echeveria is located, it is advisable to maintain a temperature of 10-16 degrees, and for flowering species 18-21 degrees. Does not require spraying, prefers dry air.

Proper transplantation and propagation

How to transplant echeveria correctly

The mistake of many novice gardeners is the desire to transplant purchased echeveria from transport soil into good soil as quickly as possible. But it is better not to rush into replanting, but to let the plant adapt to new conditions. It is best to leave the flower for about a month in a dark place and dry it until superficial roots appear. The easiest way to adapt to new conditions are flowers that were grown in specialized nurseries, where the environment was as close as possible to the place of sale. This, of course, will affect their price, but the plant will not die suddenly for no apparent reason. After a month, the plant can be safely transplanted into a pot in new soil.

As for the soil, it is worth noting that in its natural habitat the stone rose grows on stones. Water flows through them and there is no stagnation. These conditions must be taken into account when transplanting.

Here are some practical tips:

• Mix 1/5 part fine gravel, 1/5 part peat and 3/5 part earth, add a little activated charcoal or charcoal.
• Mix soil for succulents with gravel, expanded clay and broken small bricks in a ratio of 4:1.
• Mix fine gravel, sand, humus and leaf soil in equal parts.

It is also necessary to ensure drainage; zeolites are perfect for this - these are minerals that absorb excess moisture.

Attention! To check whether you have prepared the mixture for replanting correctly, squeeze the substrate in your fist. If the substrate crumbles when you unclench your hand, everything is done correctly.

When choosing a pot, you need to take into account the diameter of the plant. The pot should be 1.5 cm wider, shallow, with a hole for draining water. To plant several plants of the same or different species and varieties, use wide low dishes. If the plants are still very small, then small cups are suitable for planting them. Don't forget to check the roots of the plants and rinse them in a weak solution of manganese, and remove the diseased ones.

The soil is poured into the pot in layers:

• drainage (pebbles, gravel);
• a substrate that has previously been calcined, cooled and moistened;
• then the plant is placed;
• substrate up to the root neck.

Attention! Young succulents should be replanted every year, and adults as they outgrow the flower pot.

At home, a stone rose can become an original design solution if placed in unusual containers. The following are suitable for this: an aquarium, glass glasses, shallow ceramic dishes, glass polyhedrons, clay lids, jugs. In your home florarium you can create any compositional mix from the variety of varieties of echeveria. You can also mix ecculents with other types of plants: Crassula, Euphorbia, Haworthia cacti, Kalanchoe, Lithops.

Important! Plants in the same florarium should prefer the same watering and care.

For additional effect, the florarium can be decorated with multi-colored sand, decorative shells, pebbles, and figurines. Watering such a composition is carried out with tweezers, at the root of the plants. Due to the lack of drainage holes, the plants should not be watered frequently. Floor, wall or hanging florariums will not only delight your eye, but also surprise guests with their originality.

Echeveria propagation

There are several ways to propagate stone roses. Cuttings and propagation by daughter rosettes are considered the easiest. More complex and painstaking – seed.

Leaf cuttings

Reproduction by leaves occurs in spring and summer. The cutting is cut using a sterile instrument from the mother succulent and left for 2-3 days in the open air to dry the cut area. A small pot – 6-8 cm in diameter – is suitable for planting cuttings. It needs to be filled with compost soil mixed with sand. After wilting, the cutting can simply be left on the surface of the soil and wait for roots to appear.

There is another, more unusual method of cuttings. Rosettes that need rejuvenation are manually separated by hand, all the leaves are placed in a transparent plastic container and placed in a warm place. After a month, the leaves produce roots, and then small rosettes appear on them, which are placed on the surface of the soil for rooting.

Attention! Manual separation of cuttings, without the use of tools, is more preferable, since with such separation the leaf preserves the meristem tissue in which the future small rosette is formed.

The preferred air temperature for young plants is 25-27 degrees. Watering should be done with warm water by spraying. Rooting usually occurs within a month. Diving into separate containers should be done when the plant has formed a new rosette.

Reproduction by daughter rosettes

This is perhaps the easiest and fastest way to grow succulents. Many varieties of Echeveria produce daughter rosettes. They are separated with a sharp instrument and the surface of the wound is sprinkled with charcoal to prevent disease and rotting of the plant. Then the young rosettes are planted in pots with soil mixture.

Seed propagation

Echeveria seeds are sown in the ground in early spring. A peat-sand mixture is best suited for this. The container with soil is covered with glass or transparent film and placed in a warm, well-lit place with an air temperature of 22-24 degrees. You should lift the film or glass daily and spray the substrate with a spray bottle, gradually increasing the ventilation time. The first shoots appear on the 12th – 16th day after sowing, then the covering material should be removed. After waiting for the first 2-3 leaves to appear, the plants can begin to be planted into separate cups filled with substrate. The picking should be repeated when the diameter of the rosettes reaches 2-4 cm.

Features of care

Echeveria is very unpretentious and does not require painstaking care. If you sometimes forget to water your flowers, this is the plant for you.

Watering

In nature, this plant grows in the desert, and therefore does not require abundant watering. It should be watered when the earthen ball is completely dry. Otherwise, excessive watering can cause rotting of the root system. Only during flowering is echeveria watered a little more often; when the plant has flowered, the previous watering regime should be resumed. Make sure that the water gets on the soil, under the root of the plant, and in no case on the outlet. Water for irrigation should be left to stand for 2-3 days.

Attention! If the leaves of a plant become limp and wrinkled, it still lacks water. Try watering it a little more often. And if in winter you notice that your echeveria has stretched out, then the frequency of watering should be reduced.

Top dressing

The flower is not picky about the nutritional value of the soil, so don’t be overzealous with fertilizing. In the autumn-winter period, the plant rests, so it does not need feeding. It will also be superfluous in the first 2 months after transplanting into new soil. Feeding should begin in the spring and continue until mid-autumn. It is best to use mineral fertilizers in the form of a solution for succulents, once a month, ½ dose. Under no circumstances should you use purely organic and nitrogenous fertilizers.

Diseases and pests.

The greatest danger to stone roses is rotting. This occurs due to excessive watering in the autumn-winter months or insufficient drainage. Rotting can be identified by yellowed leaves.

Stretching of the plant, loose rosettes, faded foliage, and lack of flowering indicate a lack of lighting or too cool an air temperature. Cold climates can also cause leaves to turn black.

The shrinking of rosette leaves indicates that the plant has become cramped in the pot.

The most common pests that attack Echeveria are phylloxera and mealybugs. Spraying the outlets with a systemic insecticide will help get rid of them.

Many gardeners love to grow exotic plants at home. One of these interesting representatives of the flora is Echeveria. People call it stone rose.

Her unusual appearance and colors made it an indispensable inhabitant for alpine slides and multi-level flower beds and for home window sills. But before planting, you should familiarize yourself with the types and varieties of Echeveria, photos are presented below.

Classification of Echeveria

The homeland of this exotic shrub is distant Mexico. Echeveria comes from the Tolstyankov family, belongs to succulents, perennial.

The plant fits in a small flowerpot and lives on the windowsill of the room. You can plant the shrub in open ground or grow it in a greenhouse.

Caring for succulents at home is not difficult, its requirements are minimal: more sunlight, dry air and a small amount of nutrient moisture.

Important! Incorrect placement of a flowerpot on a windowsill, where there is not the required amount of sunlight, will negatively affect the plant. In such conditions, echeveria will quickly die.

Main characteristics of the bush:

1. The foliage is dense, filled with moisture, ending in a sharp tip. Form - convex or flattened;
2. The length of the plate ranges from 3 to 30 cm, while the width will be 1-15 cm;
3. The peduncle, if present, can reach up to 50 cm in size;
4. Flowering is represented by small bells that are collected in inflorescences. Each bud measures 1-3 cm.

The classification of shrubs is quite diverse. There are varieties of succulents in the following categories:

1. By structure: dense or loose rosettes;
2. According to the color of the plates: all colors are green, pink-violet, red tones;
3. By root system: superficial or threadlike;
4. Along the stem: the rosette comes from the ground or rises above it, creeping varieties;
5. By leaf color under special lighting: red, yellow e.

In this video you will see some types of echeveria.

A significant variety of echeveria allows you to choose the best option for growing, like at home and outdoors to create alpine slides.

Popular types

For ease of choice for gardeners, popular varieties of exotic shrubs are highlighted.

Agave echeveria echeveria agavoides

The flower has a bush-like shape, which does not change either in winter or in summer. It stretches 25-35 cm in height and looks like a water lily. Endowed with a short stem.

Attention! The foliage is smooth, without additional hair, and is located symmetrically. The color of the plates is a delicate green tone. At the ends of each leaf there is a translucent reddish color. The length reaches 5-10 cm, the width does not exceed 2-6 cm.

Flowering occurs in the last days of autumn or the first ten days of December. The flowers are small, do not exceed 1.5 cm in diameter, of various colors: red or yellow.

Related Echeveria affinis

Echeveria affinis was first described back in 1958 by the botanist E. Walther. The stem of the bush is short, belongs to the dwarf species, does not exceed 5 cm. The height of the rosette reaches on average 8-12 cm.

The width of the foliage is up to 2.5 cm, and the length is 7 cm. The shade is rich green, reaching black. The top side has no bends, it is almost flat.

Attention! With a lack of sunlight, the foliage loses its dark color, becoming greener, and gradually begins to stretch out.

Graceful echeveria echeveria elegans

belongs to the stemless species– it lacks a main stem. The rosette resembles a lotus flower. The foliage is round in shape with pointed ends pointing upward.

Important! The plate is not large, light green in color, 5 cm in length and only 2 cm in width. A bluish pile is visible on the upper side. You should not touch it, try to erase it, or carry out other manipulations. The spraying is erased and cannot be restored, and the plant loses all its decorative features.

The peduncle is branched, stretches upward and ends in bright orange, red and pink bells. The ends of the bud are yellow.

Echeveria derenbergii echeveria derenbergii

Stone rose rosette flat, up to 6 cm in diameter, regular shape. The shrub is a creeping species.

The foliage has a spatulate appearance, measuring 4 by 2 cm, greenish in color, with a gray tint. A pink border appears at the edges of the plate. The greens are placed crowded, tightly pressed against each other.

Flowering begins in mid-spring. The arrows appear from the axils of the leaves located in the upper part. The height of the peduncles is 5-6 cm, on which 3-4 buds of a bright yellow rich shade.

Echeveria gibbiflora

Succulent has a tree-like stem. Large rosettes with 15-20 leaf blades are formed at the ends of the branches. The color of the rosettes is greenish-gray.

Important! The foliage is large - 15 cm wide and 25 cm long. The shape resembles an irregular oval of a curved structure, with waves along the edges. On the top surface of the leaf there are new growths of irregular shape. Thanks to the growths of echeveria, it got its name.

The bush begins to throw out buds in late August. Flowering is long - open flowers last until mid-winter. The buds appear on a long stem and look like a ball. The color of the blossoming bud is scarlet. The flower resembles a small bell, which is colored red on top and has a yellow tint inside.

One of the common varieties Humpbacked Echeveria – Magic Red.

Metal-flowered echeveria

Feature of the variety - metallic shimmer. Succulents from the genus Tolstyankov, successfully growing at home, bloom. But this view almost never throws out arrows with buds.

Echeveria Lauii

The flower got its name thanks to a botanist, who discovered it among other varieties of representatives of the genus and described its main characteristics.

The trunk of the plant is large, reaches 2-3 cm. A distinctive feature of the species is the fleshy leaf plates, covered with a specific wax coating. There is also a coating on flowers.

The upper shell is delicate and soft to the touch. It is not recommended to wash it - it is a protective layer for the plant. It is because of this coating The plant must be handled very carefully.

brilliant echeveria

The shape of the bush is round, but at the same time sheet plates of strictly geometric shape. The bush does not branch, the plates extend to a maximum of 10 cm in length, and reach only 4 cm in width. The edges of the elastic leaves in some varieties are wavy, and there are minor indentations. Color: gray with a greenish tint.

Important! Flowering occurs in the last weeks of winter, until mid-spring. A large number of flower stalks are formed on the arrows, looking like bells. The color of the buds is bright red with a yellow border around the edge.

Most often, gardeners prefer the Flying Cloud variety from this line. Its appearance resembles a head of cabbage, with a pink border appearing at the ends of the leaves.

Bristly Echeveria echeveria Setosa

The stem of the shrub is shortened or almost completely absent. Under natural conditions, echeveria grows up to 15 cm in height. The rosettes are spherical in shape, with lint present on the leaves. They are almost completely covered with thin whitish bristles.

Villi grow everywhere, even on the peduncle. The latter extends 30 cm. Flowering begins from May to July. The buds are scarlet in color, turning yellow.

Echeveria Shaviana

Outwardly, it resembles a head of cauliflower, located on a thick stem. Foliage shade - purple with gray tint.

Along the edge of the leaf are waves painted pink. But the edging is present if the plant is in direct sunlight. If the bush is located in the shade, the color becomes faded.

Socket size 20 cm. Flowering occurs from July to August. The buds are deep pink.

Echeveria Pearl of Nuremberg Echeveria Perle von Nurnberg

Pearl Von Nuremberg is distinguished by plates with sharp peaks. They have a brown-gray tint, with a pink tint. The rosettes are large, up to 15 cm in diameter, located on a strong, straight stem. The flowering of the plant occurs at the end of spring in a muted red tone.

Echeveria Purpuzorum or Crimson Echeveria Purpusorum

The plant does not differ in significant volumes in height and width. Its maximum dimensions are 10 by 8 cm. The main advantage of this variety is the structure of the leaf plate - it is triangular in shape with a rigid structure and a peaked tip.

The greens are olive or marshy in color with a lot of small splashes of brown. By the end of spring, the bush produces an arrow, 20 cm in height, on which red buds with an orange tint are formed.

Echeveria Miranda Miranda

On the stem of a succulent several sockets are placed. Thanks to this, the plant stretches up to 70 cm in living nature. The appearance of the shrub resembles a lotus flower.

Attention! This variety was developed thanks to the painstaking work of breeders. Thanks to this, there are different varieties of Echeveria Miranda, the foliage of which can be of any shade: yellow, lilac, pink, silver.

The plant is perennial, the foliage is round in shape, but with pointed ends. The plates are folded so that they form a rosette. Large bush: individual leaves are 22-25 cm, and 15 cm wide.

Echeveria Black Prince Black Prince

Echeveria Black Prince is a hybrid species. The color of its leaves is almost black. The succulent does not grow fast, it is low. Its plates are not large - only 7.5 cm in length, flattened on both sides. At the base of the plant, in the center of the rosette, the dark color is replaced by a green tone.

Flowering of Black Prince begins in the last days of October and continues until the first days of January. The plant shoots out short arrows, on which the buds glow in scarlet.

Echeveria Lilacina

Belongs to a slow growing variety. Its leaves are endowed with a dense, hard and thick structure.. The size of the rosette is 25 cm, the shade of the plates varies from bluish-gray to lilac. The buds are neutral in tone - soft coral or pink.

Flowers are formed on arching reddish arrows, stretching 15 cm. Flowering occurs from the end of February to the last days of May.

If the bush is exposed to the sun, it will appear on the foliage. waxy coating that gives the flower its white color.

Echeveria Pulidonis Echeveria Pulidonis

Echeveria Pulidonis has a specific color and structure. Features of the variety:

1. Succulent rosette 15 cm in diameter
2. Foliage – curved, elongated, narrow, up to 6-7 cm;
3. Blue plates with bright pink edging;
4. There is no stem;
5. Flowering is observed in summer.

Produced peduncles are tall, bell-shaped. The buds are yellow in color.

Echeveria Sisaya Glauca

Echeveria Sizaya is distinguished by a specific shade - a bluish tone with a bluish tint. The plant has dense rosettes, located directly on the ground. The foliage is short, up to 10 cm wide, but large - up to 30 cm in height.

In winter, a pink edging appears along the edges of the leaf blades. Flowering begins in spring. Stretched out arrow with yellow buds.

Desmeta

Desmeta – classic a variety of succulent, with rosettes reaching 15 cm. The foliage is a silver-blue hue, with a pink stripe along the edges. As the bush matures, it produces a creeping shoot, which can, if necessary, be rooted into a neighboring flowerpot. The plant is grown from seeds and leaf cuttings.

The bush throws out a long thin stem that stretches 25 cm. Brightly colored buds - orange.

Nodulose

Echeveria Nodulose one of the short-growing species of the family Tolstyankov. It grows to a height of no more than 20 cm. The plates have a beautiful pattern: on top there are red stripes along the entire perimeter, and on the bottom side there are large spots of an identical tone.

Flowers begin to appear at the end of March. The buds are bright scarlet, bloom wildly.

Amoena has thick shoots, miniature rosettes form at the ends. The greenery is bluish in color and triangular in shape. Flowers appear rarely and are yellow in color with a reddish tint. The variety is considered rare. Therefore, in order to get an exclusive specimen, you need to know how the bush reproduces by leaf.

Cushion Echeveria

small bush, with elongated oval-shaped plates, loose in structure. On the surface of the leaf there is a dense fringe of fibers. The color of the plant is pale greenish.

In spring it shoots an arrow with small buds - bells of a reddish-yellow hue.

Echeveria Shaw

The shrub has a short stem on which large greenish sockets, pubescent with a bluish coating. The tops of the leaves are wavy, with cuts, ending in a peak. Buds are formed in mid-June, bloom yellow-pink.

On a note! In winter, the shrub sheds almost all its greenery, exposing a large stem.

Bloom

Echeveria species that shoot arrows ready to bloom up to 2-3 times a year. But the formation of buds occurs only in favorable conditions. Some succulent lovers don't interested in flowering, so when the plant forms shoots, they remove them.

To provoke budding of a succulent, it is worth extend daylight hours. To do this, you must fulfill the following conditions of detention:

1. The room temperature should be +16..+18 0 C;
2. The duration of exposure to sunlight on the bush is up to 12-13 hours;
3. Keeping in such conditions for up to 45-50 days.

Only then can you receive desired result and admire the buds. If the plant blooms, it is recommended to increase watering and apply fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

In this video you will see blooming echeveria and several of its species.

Thus, there are many varieties of echeveria. Rarities include Topsy Torvy, Rainbow, Globulosa and Peacock. Each variety has a special structure and plate structure. Therefore, many gardeners create entire greenhouses from species of this succulent.

Echeveria, (lat. Echeveria) is a genus of succulent plants from the Crassulaceae family. These are perennial herbaceous plants with succulent leaves forming a dense rosette, or low succulent shrubs.

Echeveria is popularly nicknamed the stone rose for its leaves gathered into a rose-shaped rosette. In the wild, most species can be found in Mexico, some grow in the United States.

This genus of succulents was named after the artist Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy, who created illustrations for books on Mexican flora.

Some sources offer two options for the name of this plant: echeveria and echeveria. The confusion arose because of the name of the succulent in Latin, which in Russian sounds like echeveria. However, both names are considered correct.

Popular varieties - names and photos

The Echeveria genus includes 170 species, but not all of them can be grown at home.

Chihuahuaensis (Echeveria chihuahuensis)



Also called Echeveria chihuahua. It is a plant with a bluish tint. The blue-gray toothed leaves end in a bright pink edge and form a rosette approximately 100mm wide. Flower stems can reach 0.25 m above the rosette. They form an inflorescence with coral-pink flowers. This type of echeveria is unpretentious: it easily tolerates sunlight.

Shaviana (E. shaviana)



Its appearance resembles a head of cabbage located on a thick straight stem. The flat, blue-gray leaves have wavy edges that take on a pinkish tint when grown in bright light. The succulent forms rosettes with a diameter of up to 200 mm. This species blooms in mid-to-late summer, producing a long stem of pink flowers.

Pearl von Nuremberg



Pearl of Nuremberg (Echeveria "Perle von Nurnberg") is a variety of echeveria that has pointed leaves that are pale gray-brown with pink highlights. They gather in rosettes up to 0.15 m in diameter. Red flowers appear at the end of summer on long (0.3 m) reddish stalks. This species is a hybrid between Echeveria gibbiflora and Echeveria graceful ().

Important: Pearl von Nuremberg does not bloom at home.

Purpusorum (E. purpusorum)



A small, slow-growing succulent up to 80 mm high, with succulent rosettes up to 80 mm wide. The triangular-shaped leaves have a rigid structure and a pointed tip. They are olive green, grey-green or white-green with mottled small reddish-brown spots. In late spring, red-orange flowers sprout on a stem up to 200 mm long.

Echeveria setosa (E. setosa)



This is a bush species. The stem is shortened or absent. The rosettes are almost spherical in shape, up to 0.15 m in diameter. This type of echeveria has leaves covered with white hairs.. It blooms in summer - red flowers with yellow tips are located on a stem up to 0.3 m long.

Pulidonis (E.pulidonis)



It is a slow growing succulent. Stem star-shaped rosettes up to 125 mm wide consist of elongated, narrow, thick leaves of a pale bluish-green color with reddish tips. In spring it produces bright yellow flowers on long reddish stems that bend under their weight.

Derenberg (E. derenbergii)



A special feature is that a large number of shoots are attached to the stem, which creep. The matte green leaves form dense pagoda-shaped rosettes with a diameter of up to 60 mm. This plant blooms in summer with bell-shaped yellow flowers..

Cushion (E. pulvinata)



A shrub plant up to 15 cm high. The stems bear small rosettes of thick leaves densely covered with silver-white hairs. At the end of winter or spring (sometimes later), an inflorescence up to 30 cm high appears, holding clusters of yellow and orange bell-shaped flowers.

Lola (E. ‘Lola’)



Succulent plant up to 150 mm high. It forms a sculptural rosette with a diameter of up to 150 mm, somewhat reminiscent of a rose bud. Leaves are marbled green with a subtle pinkish blush. Yellow or coral-colored, bell-shaped flowers appear in spring on short stems. Lola is perfect for growing in mini gardens.

Advice: Lola is grown in partial shade.

Gibbiflora (E. gibbiflora)



Shows wide variation in color and shape of rosettes and leaves. The length of the flowering stem varies from 1.6 m to 0.80 m. It is a succulent, perennial evergreen plant that forms large (up to 30 cm in height and 40 cm in diameter) star-shaped symmetrical rosettes. The leaves are flat, wide, reddish-green in color, up to 20 centimeters long. It has bell-shaped flowers, red with a yellow center. This species is drought-resistant. Can tolerate direct sunlight.

Gray (E. secunda or E. glauca)



This succulent was named so because of its bluish-gray hue. The plant forms dense basal rosettes of short leaves with a diameter of about 10 cm. Quite large (up to 30 centimeters in height), when compared with the plant itself, the flowers appear in late spring, have red cups and yellow petals, which gives them a two-color appearance. In winter, pink color appears on the edges of the leaves. Blue echeveria is great for growing in pots.

Lilacina (E. Lilacina)



A slow growing species of echeveria. The leaves are hard, not very thick, arranged in a rosette with a diameter of up to 25 centimeters. The shade of the leaves varies from gray-blue to pale lilac. The flowers are pale pink or coral. They appear on small short arching racemes at the top of reddish stems about 15 centimeters tall. The flowering period extends from late winter to early spring. If you grow this plant in the sun, a waxy coating will appear on the leaves, which gives it an almost white color.

Attention: The wax coating is very delicate, so it should not be touched with hands.

Rainbow or Rainbow (E. ‘Rainbow’)



This is a variety of Echeveria "Perle von Nurnberg". The rosette changes its color with the change of season - this is what distinguishes this species from others. In the center of the rosette the leaves have a pronounced pink color. Closer to the base, their color gradually changes to green. The rosettes are single, up to 15 centimeters in diameter.

Minima (E. Minima)



Miniature plant. The small silver-gray or blue-gray leaves have a striking, pointed pink tip. They are assembled into sockets with a diameter of up to 12.5 centimeters. The flowering period occurs in late spring and early summer. This species produces large numbers of bright apricot or red-orange bell-shaped flowers. In summer, it is advisable to move the plant to an open space with fresh air, for example to a balcony or veranda.

Orion (E. Orion)



It has leaves of a pale purple or gray-green hue. The rosettes reach 15 centimeters in diameter. During flowering it produces pink flowers. This type of echeveria is very drought tolerant..

Important: This plant should be grown in partial shade.

Desmeta (E. desmetiana)



Classic look of a stone rose. A fast-growing perennial, succulent plant with rosettes up to 15 cm wide. The leaves are colored silver-blue and have a reddish edge. After a few years, the plant produces a creeping shoot. It blooms in early summer, producing pink-orange flowers on thin long (up to 25 centimeters) stems.

Let's talk about growing the Echeveria "Desmeta" species from seeds. This can be done at any time of the year:

1. Small trays or containers should be filled with well-ventilated, light soil. Ready-made soil for cacti is suitable.
2. Place the seeds evenly on the surface of the soil.
3. For most seeds to grow successfully, the temperature must be maintained between 20 and 22 degrees.
4. After seed germination, move the container to a well-lit place.
5. After 6-8 weeks, the plant needs to be transplanted into separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm.

Stone rose can be propagated in several ways:

• By leaf: by separating a leaf from the mother echeveria.
• Rosettes: not a leaf, but a whole rosette is separated from the mother plant. The most popular breeding method.
• Cuttings: leaf cuttings are rooted in soil or sand. The simplest method of reproduction.

Echeveria Lau (E. laui)

It is distinguished from other species by an abundant waxy coating, due to which it acquires a dusty, almost white hue. It is a slow-growing perennial plant with blue-gray-white leaves. Echeveria can reach 15 cm in height, but the growth process takes a very long time. The rosettes are symmetrical, up to 12.5 cm in diameter. Peach-pink flowers also have a slight white coating.

We recommend watching a video about the features of growing Echeveria Lau:

Black Prince (E. ‘Black Prince’)

Hybrid look. A slow and low growing succulent plant. It is a cluster of small (7.5 cm in diameter) rosettes consisting of thin blackish sharp leaves. At the base the leaves are greenish in color, but towards the edges they darken and acquire a dark chocolate hue. Black Prince blooms from late fall to early winter, producing dark red flowers on short stems.

Conclusion

Because of its properties, echeveria is a popular indoor plant.. It is unpretentious and requires minimal effort. Due to its appearance, it can look good both on its own and as an addition to other flower arrangements.

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Echeveria or Echeveria is an exotic plant, a guest from the hot and dry regions of Mexico. Growing echeveria is not a challenge for the gardener.

A stone rose requires minimal effort, but gives scope for creating modern compositions:

• on the windowsill;
• in the florarium;
• in the greenhouse.

One very important caveat: if you don't have a bright, warm place for your echeveria, don't buy this flower.

Description of Echeveria

Echeveria (Echeveria) or stone rose is a herbaceous succulent plant or low shrub from the Crassulaceae family. The shape of the plant resembles a rose carved from stone. There is a mention of the stone rose in the works of the mid-16th century by the Spaniard B. de Sahagún. He points to the Aztecs' use of the flower as a refreshing and softening agent. Already in the 19th century, many stone images were presented by Atanasio Echiverria y Godoy in books describing the flora of Mexico. This genus of succulents was named after him.

Stone rose has the following characteristics:

• the leaves are dense, filled with moisture, can be flat or cylindrical, oval with a sharp end, length varies from 3 to 30 cm, and width - from 1 to 15 cm;
• the leaves form dense or loose rosettes;
• leaf color - all shades of green, reddish, purple-pink;
• There are types with a “waxy” or “hairy” leaf;
• the stem is sometimes almost absent, sometimes up to 70 cm;
• there are species with creeping shoots;
• the root system is superficial, thread-like;
• throws out a peduncle (up to 50 cm);
• flowers - small bells (1-3 cm) collected in inflorescences;
• the color of the petals depends on the light, with a bright color - red, with a dull color - yellow;
• babies may develop at the end of the peduncle.

We emphasize that this article is devoted to echeveria, which looks like juveniles, but is exclusively an indoor plant for the middle zone. Please do not confuse these plants, so as not to accidentally plant echeveria in open ground, because it categorically does not tolerate low temperatures, not to mention frost. The young ones winter well, even without shelter. In the genus Echeveria, anyone can find a plant to their liking, because the diversity is represented by two hundred species.

List of sufficient conditions for keeping echeveria.
We always remember that echeverias are desert succulents, and their enemies are overwatering and cold.

Stone roses prefer:

• dry air, humidification is unacceptable;
• bright lighting, direct sunlight - that's it.

In warm and cold seasons, stone roses require different temperature conditions:

• spring and summer – 22 – 28 ˚ C;
• autumn and winter - 10 - 15 ˚ C, for flowering species - 18 - 20 ˚ C.

As for, you need to wait until the lump of earth under the plant dries out for the most part, then water it. In winter, watering is reduced even more. In general, in winter, the main task is to preserve the plant, prevent it from stretching out, leaning to one side, or loosening it. It is necessary to preserve it, as it were, with the help of artificial drought.

Echeverias love dry air, they feel amazing near heating devices, they cannot tolerate spraying, it is not even recommended to water them on leaves or inside the socket, although nothing bad will happen, provided that the water quickly evaporates from the funnel (because tropical rain also does not choose where to pour) .

Water needs to be at room temperature, separated. An excellent result is achieved by watering with water from the aquarium, if possible (the water is already enriched with microelements).

During the warm period (turbulent growing season, flowering), fertilizers for succulents are applied once a month (along with watering, half the dose indicated), during flowering - fertilizers for flowering plants. Echeverias are not fertilized in autumn and winter. Purely nitrogenous fertilizers and organic matter are not recommended.

Primary planting and transplantation of echeveria

After purchasing echeveria, some gardeners recommend immediately replanting the plant from shipping soil, since it is not intended for plant growth. Experienced succulent lovers say that nothing will happen to the plant after a month in the transport soil; this time will give the flower an opportunity to acclimatize, survive stress, and get used to new living conditions.

Place the pot in a slightly shaded place and dry until aerial roots begin to appear. This is especially true for imported flowers (Dutch flowers). Sometimes stone roses do not survive the move and disappear for no apparent reason. Plants grown in local nurseries tolerate changes more easily.

Typically, such material is of higher quality and costs more. However, it should also dry out in the window.
What soil mixture should I plant echeveria in? In its natural environment, it is a rocky desert, where water does not stay at the roots. The same should happen in the pot. The substrate must be mixed with small pebbles, broken bricks, gravel (fraction 3-5 mm).

• garden soil - 3 parts,
• small pebbles - 1 part,
• peat – 1 part,
• charcoal - a little;

• substrate for cacti or – 4 parts,
• pebbles – 1 part;

You can use clean pea gravel plus a little cialite (if slow plant development is desired).
It’s easy to check if the soil mixture has been mixed correctly - a lump of wet substrate, held in your hand, crumbles after being squeezed.

Choosing a pot for a stone rose is a simple matter. You know the approximate diameter of the plant, take a pot 1-1.5 cm larger, flat (to match the root system) with many drainage holes. Small planting material can be planted in small cups for growing, and then transplanted to a permanent place.

A large pot or bowl is used for group plantings of one or different types of echeveria. To prevent water from stagnating in large containers, they need to be watered with extreme care.

We fill the bottom of the pot with drainage and some substrate, place the plant and fill it with substrate up to the root collar. If planting in clean gravel, then cover the bottom a third with pebbles, place the seedling and fill the remaining volume with them. This method is very simple and economically justified, since the stones last forever and perfectly aerate the roots. There is one warning - we use gravel of a larger fraction.

We replant small roses once a year, and as they grow, we select a larger pot. Mature plants - once every three years (as necessary).

How to make echeveria bloom

The stone rose is ready to bloom at 2-3 years of age. In the hot and dry conditions of our apartments, echeverias bloom successfully on the windowsill. There are flower growers who do not like the flowering of echeverias; they prefer the decorative appearance of rosettes.

If you want to see flowers, but there are none, then you need to extend the daylight hours. Keeping echeveria for 45-60 days at 15-18 degrees of heat and light for 12-13 hours will give the desired result - buds will appear. Then turn up the watering a little and feed it with fertilizer for flowering plants.

Echeveria pests and diseases

If a stone rose is infected by a mealybug, the following are observed:

• sticky coating on leaves;
• thin cobwebs in patches;
• small light-colored insects covered in powdery coating;
• plant oppression.

If noticed in time, treat with karbofos solution (6 g + 1 liter of water). In case of severe infection, throw out the plant, separating healthy parts for propagation.
Signs of rootworm damage:

• thin whitish threads on a clod of earth;
• leaves lose turgor.

You should urgently remove the entire substrate and plant, water it with Arcade solution (1g+5l of water) with a break of 1 week.

When a root-knot nematode settles on a stone rose:

• echeveria withers;
• There are pea-sized thickenings on the roots; if measures are not taken, the root will rot.

The plant must be replanted when these signs are detected, having previously removed the infected parts of the roots and kept them in water for half an hour (40-45˚ C). Spill the soil mixture with Arcade solution (1g+5l of water), repeat the operation 3-4 times.

Powdery mildew and fungal diseases occur with chronic overwatering. Control methods include drying the plant and treating it with fungicides. If it doesn’t help, then try saving the non-infected propagation material (leaf, top), and destroy the diseased plant so that it does not become a source of disease for others.

Echeveria leaf propagation

The succulent reproduces by leaf without any problems, and the process does not present any particular difficulties.

Root the echeveria leaf in the soil mixture:

• you need to break off the lower healthy leaf;
• dry for 2-3 hours;
• soil mixture (earth to sand 2:1), perlite on top (2 mm), poured into a container;
• press the sheet at an angle;
• spray the soil with a spray bottle and cover the container with film;
• the greenhouse should be ventilated daily and moistened as the top layer of soil dries,
• the optimal temperature for rooting is 25 degrees Celsius;
• after 15-20 days, babies will grow around the leaf;
• a new plant can be replanted when the mother leaf dries out.

Surprisingly, propagating echeveria by leaf can be even easier:

• separate the bottom large, fat leaf;
• place in a warm, shaded place;
• you should calmly wait about a month (+/-);
• roots and small rosettes will appear on the leaf;
• after which the young plants should be planted in a pot.

You have to be prepared for surprises, because on one leaf several children will develop, but on another there will be none (and this happens). Experiment to see which way you like best will give better results.

Propagation of echeveria by rosettes

• cut off the basal or apical rosette (use a sharp, clean tool);
• remove a row of lower leaves;
• dry for 3-4 hours in the shade;
• pour the prepared substrate into the pot (soil + small stones, coarse sand - 1:1). It is advisable to lay a drainage layer of small pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom;
• plant a rosette of echeveria, lightly moisten the soil;
• maintain the temperature around 22 – 24 ˚ C;
• You will have to wait about a month for rooting;
• grow young echeveria from a rosette in the same pot for 2 months to a year.

Reproduction of echeveria by tops Echeveria stretched out, what to do

• use a sharp knife to cut off the top of an overgrown, elongated plant
• remove the lower leaves
• dry for a couple of hours
• planted in a loose substrate or gravel, rooted using the methods described above
• By the way, the remaining stump will also produce children over time, so we continue to care for it.

How to propagate echeveria vegetatively, look at the video:

Propagation of echeveria by seeds

A complex method, similar to breeding work. Flower growers often grab it, because seeds are much cheaper than ready-made plants.

There are some buts here:

• labor intensity;
• there is no guarantee of results;
• the slightest mistake leads to the loss of seedlings;
• It is difficult to rely on the sellers' integrity - the seeds may be stale and may not match the variety.

If you are not afraid of these difficulties, then get started. The order is:

• in March (possibly in February) prepare a mixture of peat and sand (1:1);
• For seed germination, use a flat container;
• seeds (very small) are scattered over the surface, lightly pressed down;
• moisten with a fine spray;
• cover with glass, cling film or plastic bag;
• For 15 – 20 days, maintain the temperature to 25 degrees, ventilate (excess condensation must be wiped off the glass), moisturize;
• after germination of the seedlings, the shelter is removed;
• 2-3 months after germination, echeveria seedlings can be transplanted into separate containers.

Mistakes when growing echeveria

Before talking about specific plant signals about poor care, a few warnings should be given to novice gardeners:

• don’t expect a miracle, succulents grow slowly;
• any living plant can die; if that fails, try again;
• Panic is your enemy; there is always some time to correct the mistake.

How Echeveria shows that it is feeling bad:

• stems and leaves turn black - overwatering, cold temperature. The plant should be moved to a warmer room and dried;
• Echeveria stretches out, the rosette becomes loose - lack of lighting. The plant should be illuminated and “dried”;
• the stone rose practically does not develop, the leaves are small - it needs to be watered and fertilized;
• the plant has lost turgor - lack of moisture. If it’s hot, then immediately water it and shade it; if it’s winter, then you can wait. A lack of water during periods of low light will allow the plant to maintain its shape and not stretch out. Large echeverias tolerate drought especially painlessly.

Echeverias have enough vitality to survive temporary difficulties. Good luck with your rock rose breeding!

Florarium or succulent garden, what is it and how to create it?

Florarium is a glass greenhouse (like an aquarium), the primary purpose of which was to create specific conditions for certain groups of plants. Since plant compositions look beautiful behind glass, florariums have begun to be used more widely - as interior items.

It's not difficult to create one. Choose any glass container:

• aquarium;
• special designer vase;
• transparent flower vase;
• large glass, etc.

Place a thick layer of coarse gravel on the bottom for drainage, then a thin layer of fine gravel so that the soil mixture does not spill into the drainage, and then a layer of nutritious soil mixture similar to the drainage (as for planting). Using a thin skewer, plant the plants (it’s easier to place the babies with embryonic roots on top).

• create a dense succulent composition, behind which the soil will not be visible;
• place several large plants and nearby small ones in small groups or scattered;
• alternate plants with large natural stones, recreating the natural landscape;
• draw paths with pebbles, divide them into zones with multi-colored pebbles, use your imagination.

Pre-study the types and varieties of echeverias and other succulents used in order to understand how each plant will develop (upward or outward) and how much space it will need over time.

Since the container does not have drainage holes, the substrate dries out much more slowly than in a pot, with careful watering. You can't spray either - it's a desert, it's a desert.

Similar mixes can be made in opaque containers; it is clear that you should not bury plants there; choose flat dishes and create by playing with colors and shapes of echeverias.

It is important to look after the garden, trim the plants in time, this promotes bushiness. You can remove some echeverias and replant others.

Types and varieties of echeveria Photos and names with descriptions

Echeveria agavoides

Echeveria agavoides home care Photo of the variety Romeo

This is a perennial bush, there is practically no stem, the stone rose produces dense rosettes.
The leaves are filled, elliptical, with a sharply tapering end, plate size 9x6 cm. The color of the leaf is light green, turning yellowish or pink towards the edge.

The popular variety Taurus is completely purple, Romeo is a red-orange echeveria, has many shades, there are also variegated ones.

There is a visible bluish tint, which gives a waxy coating, the peduncle rises above the center of the rosette to a height of 40 cm. Unusual flowers are bells, red or yellow. The flowering period occurs in spring or summer.

Echeveria leucotricha

The plant is distinguished by a characteristic short stem; the rosette grows up to 15 cm in diameter. The lanceolate leaves on the back are convex, arched, and filled with moisture. The leaf color is green with a brownish edge. As the name suggests, the leaf is covered with whitish hairs. The peduncle (40-50 cm) ends in brownish-red flowers. Spring bloom.

Echeveria fulgens Lera

It is distinguished by bushiness, the main rosette produces thick shoots with small rosettes - children at the end. The oblong leaves end in a narrow tip. The leaf blade measures 10x4 cm, with a waxy coating along the edge of the leaf. Blooms in February and March with deep red flowers.

Echeveria Gibbiflora

Loose rosettes crown the tree-like stem; the number of green-gray leaves with a pinkish or brownish tint in the rosette is about 20. The rounded leaves in some varieties have a wavy edge. Beautiful purplish-yellow inflorescences (6-15 cm) are crowned with a slightly leafy peduncle (up to 1 m).

Examples of varieties:

• Carunculata (characteristic tubercles on the leaves),
• Metallica (leaves edged with white or red),
• Crispata (highly wavy reddish leaf margin),
• Pearl of Nuremberg (almost lilac).

Echeveria Derenbergii

This stone rose has regular, dense rosettes up to 6 cm in diameter, with succulent shoots spreading along the ground. The spatulate leaves (4x2 cm) are pressed against each other, the color is gray-green, turning into pink towards the edge of the leaf. Short (5-6 cm) flower stalks grow from the axils of the upper leaves in mid-spring. Each peduncle bears 3-5 yellow-orange flowers.

Echeveria elegans

The graceful echeveria has a characteristic stemless shape and dense lotus-shaped rosettes. The sharp ends of the rounded leaves (5x2 cm) are directed upward. A bluish coating is visible on light greenery, which is not recommended to be touched or washed, it practically does not recover and the plant loses its decorative effect. The branched peduncle stretches upward and ends in pink-red bells with yellow tips. This is one of the most favorite types of echeveria for many gardeners due to its high decorative qualities.

Echeveria pulvinata ‘Ruby Blush’ photo

A low-growing succulent, the erect stem is crowned with a loose rosette reaching 10 cm in diameter. The leaves are “fat”, arched below, oval, with a spine at the tip; the light edge gives a special charm. It blooms in early spring, producing a low peduncle with yellow-red flowers. A highly ornamental plant with many varieties.

Echeveria Peacockii or Echeveria Peacockii

It has sessile rosettes (10-15 cm), leaves (5x3 cm) are light, gray, oval, triangularly pointed at the ends, colored pink. You can’t take your eyes off the drooping erect peduncle. The one-sided placement of “frost-covered” pink flowers that appear in June also adds to the effect.

Echeveria Shaviana or Shaw Echeveria Shaviana

The rosette resembles a cabbage in cross section; the stem is very short. The color of the plant is gray-green. A sharp needle emerges from among the flounces of the edge of the leaf plate. In the winter it sheds a significant part of its foliage. The peduncle is much higher than the rosette, dotted with lanceolate leaves. Flower color is pink.

Echeveria septosa

A succulent bush, the rosette resembles a chrysanthemum flower - the leaves are so organically placed that they form a hemisphere. The leaves are fleshy (10x4 cm), green in color, appearing gray in places due to the thick white edge. The peduncle (30 cm) is also covered with bristles; in May - June, many fiery flowers bloom - red, turning into yellow.

Echeveria Laui Echeveria Laui

Most of all it resembles a stone flower due to the thick waxy coating on the bluish leaves, the rosette is large - up to 2 inches in diameter, monumental. The leaves have a size of 6x3 cm. The flowers are massive - 1.5 cm in diameter, orange, and also covered with a waxy coating. The flower is a sissy one, it requires a lot of attention - a lot of sun and little water in winter, it develops slowly.

Echeveria Runyonii ‘Topsy Turvy’ photo

Consider the variety Topsy-Turvy cv. Topsy-Turvy: The rosette resembles a star or chrysanthemum. The leaves are almost white due to the characteristic bloom. Plant hemispheres can reach a radius of 8 cm. The leaves are fleshy, back curved. The peduncle is low, drooping, with a small number of leaves. The flowers are yellow-pink.

Echeveria Black Prince Echeveria Black Prince

Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ photo

Unusual green-brown, almost black coloring of leaves. The maximum diameter is 15 cm. In winter, a period of rest is necessary.