How to care for pachypodium: creating conditions for the “Madagascar palm.” Pachypodium: home care Pachypodium lamera branching

1. Growing temperature: summer - 16 - 24° C, winter - it is advisable to provide aloe with a cool rest period at a temperature of about 12° C.
2. Lighting: the plant is very light-loving.
3. Watering and air humidity: Dry the substrate between waterings a few centimeters deep or even a third or half the height of the pot - depending on the air temperature. With the onset of warm weather, it is better to increase air humidity.
4. Peculiarities: a spectacular and at the same time extremely undemanding plant, the maintenance of which even novice gardeners can cope with.
5. Priming: Well-drained, slightly acidic pH, nutrient-poor substrate.
6. Top dressing: a highly diluted solution of fertilizer for succulent plants 2 times a month in the warm season. In autumn and winter, fertilizing is not carried out.
7. Reproduction: stem cuttings, less often - seeds.

Botanical name: Pachypodium.

Pachypodium flower - family . Kutrovye.

Origin. Madagascar, Africa

Description. The genus Pachypodium consists of 13 species of attractive, perennial, succulent shrubs or trees. The stems are thick - they store moisture reserves, in most species they are covered with strong straight spines, reach 60 cm in diameter, light gray or light brown. With age, the stem sometimes forms lateral shoots. The leaves are green, sword-shaped, gracefully curved, arranged spirally or alternately, in the upper part of the stems, forming a crown. The flowers are funnel-shaped, appear in summer, fragrant, white, yellow or pink, with 5 rounded petals, reminiscent of fragrant tobacco. In appearance, the plant resembles a palm tree.

Height. In nature it reaches 8 m; in indoor culture it grows slowly and often does not exceed 120-180 cm.

2.Caring for pachypodium at home

2.1.Reproduction

Growing from seeds is possible, but this is a rather lengthy process. The seeds must also be fresh; they must first be soaked for a day in warm water. Propagation by cuttings should be accompanied by the use of growth hormones and bottom heating.


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2.2.How to transplant pachypodium

Mature plants are replanted only every 3 to 4 years. When replanting, remove dead and diseased roots with sharp pruning shears. For large tub plants, the top layer of soil is replaced with fresh one every year. Since pachypodium has very sharp spines, use thick protective gloves when working with it. For planting, it is advisable to use a heavy clay pot with large drainage holes, the walls of which will allow moisture and air to pass through.

2.3.Diseases and pests

Spider mites can occur on leaves and branches. They are extremely harmful. To prevent their occurrence, it is important to promptly remove old and damaged leaves and to ventilate the room with the plant well. Mealybugs suck sap and nutrients from plants and are usually the main cause of slow growth. However, they can be easily removed with strong water pressure. If kept too wet and cool, the plant may rot.

Harmful insects may include mealybugs, spider mites, scale insects, thrips, rootbugs, and nematodes.

Insects - pests

Insect name Signs of infection Control measures
or felt The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals: green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm.
The leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown and black. Eventually the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason. Traditional methods: destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70°C, hot bath - immersing the pot in a large container with water at a temperature of 55°C for 20 minutes. Chemicals: anthelmintics.
Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik.
The appearance of yellow spots on the leaf blades; small brown dots can be observed on the underside of the leaves. When pests spread, they cause leaves to turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Traditional methods. Increase air humidity, wipe the surface of the leaves with a soap solution to reduce the number of pests. Preparations based on pyrethrum - 2-fold treatment with an interval of 7 - 10 days, spraying with tobacco infusion, infusion of yarrow or Persian chamomile, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Chemicals: dusting with sulfur powders, using anabasine sulfate in a soap solution.
Scale insect and false scale insect Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. When scale insects become widespread, they cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon.
There is a white fluffy coating on the walls of the pot, the plants slow down their development, the leaf blades become dull and pale, and with severe infection, the leaf blades become wrinkled and dry out. Plants attacked by root scale insects are often susceptible to fungal diseases. Traditional methods: manual collection of insects from the soil surface, hot bath - immersing the pot in a large container with water at a temperature of 55 ° C for 20 minutes, removing damaged roots and further replanting into a new substrate. Insecticidal preparations






  • 2.4.How to care

    Indoor pachypodium can live indoors for many years with minimal care. This plant tolerates a wide range of temperatures and light levels. You can take the pachypodium out into the fresh air during the warm season. During the winter months, the plant may lose some or even all of its foliage - this is quite normal.

    2.5.When it blooms

    Spring. Pachypodium rarely blooms indoors, only with proper care and abundant lighting.

    2.6.Water the pachypodium

    The frequency of watering depends on the temperature of the content. Daily watering is only necessary on hot summer days. Allow the soil to dry to half depth between waterings. In the winter months, watering is reduced to a minimum, just trying not to dry out the soil. With the arrival of spring and the appearance of new leaves, watering is increased.

    2.7.Soil

    You need very porous, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH. As a top layer, it is better to surround the caudex with small pebbles or coarse sand to avoid rotting.

    2.8.Containment temperature

    Choose a place with a temperature range from 16 to 24° C. In the winter months, keep it cooler, but not lower than 10° C.

    2.9.Fertilizer

    When growing, use fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium (or balanced), feed every 2 weeks. During the dormant period, feeding is stopped.

    2.10.Lighting

    These plants require a lot of sunlight to develop properly. In the morning and evening, direct sunlight can hit the pachypodium for 3 to 4 hours daily. Please note that the caudex (the base of the trunk) is very susceptible to sunburn. The base of the plant should be shaded.

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    2.11.Spraying

    With the onset of warm weather, high air humidity will be required - regular spraying is necessary. Place a humidifier near the plant or surround the pot with a layer of damp sphagnum moss. In autumn and winter, the air around the plant should be dry.

    Purpose.

    2.12.Note

    Pachypodium contains milky sap, which is poisonous - wash your hands thoroughly after handling the plant. Since most types of pachypodium bear sharp thorns, it is unlikely that children or pets will get to the sap of the plant.

    Hydroponics.

    3.Varieties:

    3.1. Pachypodium lamerei

    Perennial succulent plants with a height of 60 cm to 5 m in their natural habitat. With age, these succulents form a thick, succulent, sparsely branched trunk of a dark green or brownish color with numerous tubercles. At the tops of the tubercles there are thick, short, sharp needles. The length of the needles can reach from 2 to 6 cm. At the tops of the trunks there is a lush crown, consisting of oblong, narrow leaves, slightly bent along the central vein. The lower surface of the leaf plates has a lighter shade. During the flowering period, large, white, attractive flowers with a diameter of 5 to 8 cm appear in the crown. The flowers have a pleasant aroma, but appear only on adult plants with a height of 180 cm and above.

    3.2. Pachypodium saundersii

    Perennial succulents with a thick, turnip-like caudex at the base. The caudex is covered with greenish, brown or silvery-gray bark and reaches a diameter of 1 meter. The stems are sparsely branched, curved, reaching a length of 1 m. The leaves are green, lanceolate, glossy, bent along the central vein, from 3 to 8 cm long, on short petioles. The edges of the sheet plates may be corrugated. The spines are short, straight, sharp, located on the stems of plants. The flowers are large, showy, fragrant, white or pinkish.

    3.3.Pachypodium geayi

    An unusually attractive succulent with a thick, succulent, bottle-shaped stem, which in its natural habitat can reach 4 - 8 m in height. The stems are glossy, silver-gray or light green, abundantly covered with thick, straight spines. The leaves are dark green, glossy, entire, narrow, linear. The central vein is highlighted in a lighter shade. The leaves form a lush crown at the tops of weakly branched stems. The flowers are white, with rounded petals, and fragrant.

    3.4. Pachypodium bispinosum or two-spined - Pachypodium Bispinosum

    A relatively compact shrub with a round, thick caudex at the base, reaches a height of 120 cm. The caudex is covered with brownish or gray bark. The stems are branched, curved, and are often located at the top of the caudex. The leaves are glossy, green, long, on short petioles. The stems of the plant are abundantly covered with long, brownish, straight spines. The flowers are attractive, bell-shaped, up to 1.5 - 2 cm in diameter, solitary, pink, appearing on the tops of the stems.

    3.5.Pachypodium rosulatum

    Attractive, slow-growing succulents with thick, branching stems at the base. The stems bear short, thick, straight spines. At the tops of the stems there is a crown formed from glossy, belt-shaped, dark green, entire leaves. Young leaves may have a burgundy tint. The central vein is highlighted in a lighter shade. The flowers are very large - they can exceed 7 cm in diameter, yellow, collected in small inflorescences on the tops of long, thin peduncles. There is no flower aroma.

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Pachypodium or in Latin Pachypodium comes from the Kutrovaceae family and is a perennial succulent in the form of a tree or shrub. It came to indoor culture from the hot places of Australia, southern Africa and Madagascar. Among the people, this succulent even received the nickname "Madagascar palm", although it has nothing to do with palm trees. Only its appearance in adulthood, when a tall, prickly stem is crowned with a tuft of long leaves, creates the impression of similarity with this tropical tree. The Latin name of the plant comes from the phrase “thick leg,” which indicates the impressive size of the stem.

In nature, the slow-growing pachypodium sometimes grows up to 10 m, while indoors - up to 30 cm (maximum for some species) or up to 1.5 m. You can admire the “green friend” for 15 years or longer, depending on the conditions of detention.

Some flora lovers notice in pachypodium a resemblance to milkweed, and this is not accidental. Plant too poisonous and dangerous however, its juice does not leave burns on the skin. Still, it is better to avoid contact with milky sap, replant the tree very carefully and place it away from children and animals so that they do not get hurt by sharp thorns.

The leaves of the Madagascar palm are simple and entire and grow from the very top of the trunk. The stem of the tree is very thick, fleshy and covered with sharp spines. The flowers collected in brushes are snow-white, quite large and elegantly tubular in shape. They open up and delight the gardener with their beauty mainly during the day.

Kinds

Exists at least 20 varieties this amazing succulent. In indoor floriculture you can find:

Home care

Pachypodium has recently gained popularity and a place on window sills. Just 10 years ago, few people knew about it and the plant was considered a rarity. Then flower growers took a closer look at the plant and discovered that this representative of the flora is not prone to whims: due to its undemanding nature and the lack of need for cold wintering, it is very convenient for indoor growing. Now the succulent is very common in culture, and this has been facilitated by the fact that it does not require any complex care.

After all measures to care for the “palm”, which must be carried out wearing rubber gloves, it is important to wash your hands thoroughly.

Lighting and temperature

Great news - pachypodium does not need shading, loves direct sunlight, but also takes root in partial shade. A south, south-west or south-east window is ideal for growing, but your pet will not die if placed in a different position. In summer, it is advisable to take it out into the garden or onto the balcony. The only one nuance - to the bright rays The succulent should get used to the sun gradually.

"Madagascar palm" is afraid of drafts, but loves frequent ventilation and prefers temperatures from 16 ° C and above in winter and from 18 to 30 ° C or higher in summer. Unlike many other representatives of the flora, it will take root perfectly on the windowsill next to the radiator!

Planting and replanting after purchase

Young pachypodiums replanted annually in the spring, and adults - every 2-3 years. Delicate roots and slow growth are the reasons for rare and very careful transplantation. It is advisable to replant a newly acquired plant - the transport soil mixture is sometimes entirely peat, which means that there is a risk of waterlogging. Besides, changing the soil will protect the “Madagascar palm”- if there were pests in the ground, they will be neutralized. In addition, you should carefully examine it or even wash the leaves with laundry soap and rinse under a warm shower.

Priming

The best substrate for transplantation will be obtained if you mix on equal terms quantities of leaf and turf soil with perlite or coarse sand. Another option:

  • 1 part turf soil
  • 1 part ready-made cactus mixture
  • 0.5 parts peat
  • 1 part perlite or coarse sand

The most important condition- drainage should occupy from a third to half the volume of the pot. It is useful to add pieces of clay, charcoal or brick to the substrate. The holes in the bottom of the container must be large! You can also grow palm trees using hydroponics.

Fertilizer/feeding

In the spring and summer, pachypodium will not interfere with fertilizing every two weeks with fertilizer for succulents. In the first month or two after transplantation, it is not fertilized - the additives included in the soil are enough for it.

Watering and air humidity

Fleshy trunk of pachypodium excellent stores moisture- this makes it not afraid of drought and dry air. However, there is a trick - the perfect balance between moderate watering and drought gives the green pet the best shape. If you overdry a succulent, it will lose its foliage, and if it is over-watered, the trunk will become excessively elongated.

The optimal watering regime is abundant from March to October, but without waterlogging, and moderate in the remaining months. It means that in the warm season, water every 1-3 days, A in winter - 1-2 times a week or month(as the top layer of the substrate dries).

It is possible to spray the “Madagascar palm”, but not necessary. She will like regular wiping leaves damp cloth. Water is required to be warm and settled.

Reproduction

Pachypodium reproduces in several ways:

  • Seeds. First, they are soaked in warm water for a day, then evenly distributed over the surface of wet sand and sprinkled with the thinnest layer of the same substrate (about 0.5 cm). Germination takes 3-4 days, several months or even six months.
  • Stem pieces. This is a problematic method, with almost zero rooting observed. A mixture of peat and sand is used.
  • Cuttings. The method is suitable for Pachypodium Lamera. In summer, the cuttings are separated, dried for 5 or 8 days on a sheet of paper, and then placed in a mixture of sand and peat. Warmth, light and constant light moisture in the substrate are important conditions for success.

Bloom

The flowering period occurs in spring or summer, depending on the variety. Only specimens that have reached 6-7 years of age are covered with flowers. Different species have inflorescences of white, yellow, red, pink shades, some are fragrant. They last on average about a week.

From the second half of October to February, pachypodium goes into hibernation. During the rest period, it may remain completely without leaves. When new ones grow, the “crest” of them moves a little higher.

Common problems

  • If you water the palm tree excessively, it may lose all its foliage.
  • Fresh leaves darken and fall off - too little light or watering with cold water.
  • With poor watering, the succulent loses its lower leaves.
  • Cold and excessive watering can cause the trunk to rot.
  • The foliage withered and the stem shriveled - too little watering.

Pests

Pachypodium can be attacked:

  • Red spider mite
  • Shchitovka
  • Thrips

Fight enemies You can use traditional methods or insecticides. Often, simple laundry soap, which is used to wash the victim, helps to cope with them.

Pachypodium is an unusual and original plant that can emphasize the originality of the grower. Impressive spines, expressive “hair” and delightful flowering - all this speaks in its favor. You just need to give the succulent the right conditions and minimal care - and your green favorite will delight you with a lush rosette of leaves, a beautiful and strong stem and the most delicate fragrant flowers.

Pachypodium is a succulent plant of the Kutrov family. Most of the species grow on the island of Madagascar, the rest settle in the arid regions of South America on rocky soil.

Botanical description

The main feature of the pachypodium is its thickened trunk. The name of the plant literally translates as “thick leg”. The shape and thickness of the trunk varies depending on the species. All known varieties are usually divided into three large groups.

  1. Dwarf (short-stemmed). The height of the plants does not exceed 10 cm. The width is usually greater than the height.
  2. Shrubs. Bottle shaped barrel. The height in nature reaches 4 meters. In apartments they grow much lower.
  3. Cactus-like trees. In nature, small trees are no higher than 5 meters. The stem is cigar-shaped, unbranched or branched.

All pachypodiums are characterized by the presence of long, thick spines. In some species they cover the entire surface of the stem, in others they are located near the leaves. The leaves grow in a spiral pattern. As they grow, the lower ones die off - a bare trunk is formed with a crown of foliage at the top. The leaves sit on short petioles. Their shape is different - obovate or linearly rounded. The surface is dark green with a pronounced gloss. The midrib is lighter and clearly defined. The back side of the leaf is slightly lighter, velvety to the touch.

The flowers sit on short stalks. The shape is correct, five petals overlap each other. The color can be different - white, pink, yellow and their variations are more common. It is almost impossible to achieve flowering in an apartment. Pachypodium is grown exclusively as an ornamental foliage crop.

Pachypodium contains toxic substances - glycosides and alkaloids. The juice causes irritation, vision problems, and even blindness if it comes into contact with the eyes. The consequences of ingestion are even more dangerous - cardiac arrest and tetanus are possible. They work with the plant extremely carefully. If there are children at home, it is better to avoid growing pachypodium.

Popular varieties

In indoor culture there are different types of pachypodium. Five varieties are especially popular.

  1. Pachypodium Lamera. Large variety of pachypodium. In an apartment it grows up to two meters, in nature - up to six. The barrel is cigar-shaped, silver-gray in color. Branching is weak or absent. Young specimens are abundantly covered with long, needle-shaped spines, which are localized in the axils of the leaves and are collected in groups of three. As the plant ages, it sheds its old leaves, but the spines remain on the stem. The leaves are oval elongated, the flowers are small, fragrant, white.
  2. Pachypodium Jaya. Quite a large tree. The trunk is thick, abundantly covered with thorns. Lamera differs from Pachypodium by its narrowed, pubescent leaves. The flowers are white, the core is yellow. In apartments it does not grow more than 60 cm.
  3. Pachypodium Sanders. The main stem is shortened and cylindrical in shape. At the top it begins to branch and forms several curved shoots. The thorns on the stems are long and brown. The ovate, dark green leaves form small rosettes at the ends of the stems.
  4. Pachypodium short-stemmed. Miniature variety. The stem is tuberous, without a definite shape. An adult specimen grows no more than 10 cm, but its width can reach 40 cm. It produces many shoots in the form of small tubercles. They contain rosettes of small leaves. The spines are soft, conical in shape. The flowers are larger than the leaves and have a yellow tint.
  5. Pachypodium succulent. A shrub quite large for indoor cultivation. The main trunk is turnip-shaped and wide. Branching is intense, concentrated at the top. The shoots are thin, the leaves are slightly pubescent, narrow. The spines are thin, not very long, growing in twos.

With good care you can achieve flowering from Pachypodium Lamera. Only mature plants that are at least seven years old bloom.

Pachypodium care: basic rules for gardeners

The cactus plant is considered relatively easy to grow, but there are some special care requirements for the pachypodium (Madagascar palm). First of all, this is the creation of a favorable microclimate - the required level of lighting, humidity, a balanced regime of fertilizing and watering.

  • Lighting. Pachypodium tolerates light partial shade, but looks better in bright diffused light. It is not afraid of the open sun, but after winter the lighting level is gradually increased. On the hottest days, it is better to shade the flower with tulle.
  • Temperature. Loves warmth, reacts neutrally to heat. In summer, moving to fresh air is encouraged - it feels good on the balcony under protection from precipitation and strong winds. In winter, temperatures below 16˚C are not allowed.
  • Watering. In summer it is better to water rarely, but abundantly. Between waterings, wait until the soil dries halfway. In winter, watering is reduced to a minimum - due to dampness of the soil, the base of the stem rots. You can only water with warm water!
  • Humidity. Pachypodium is neutral to humidity levels. It does not need to be artificially increased - no spraying is needed.
  • The soil. Preference is given to light, neutral soils. Mix turf, coarse sand and leaf soil in equal parts. To improve the properties of the soil, finely chopped brick and charcoal are added. A drainage layer must be made at the bottom. After planting, the soil surface is covered with gravel or decorative stones.
  • Feeding. In spring and summer, complex fertilizers are used. It is advisable to choose products for succulents - they have a more balanced composition. You can feed no more than twice a month. They do not fertilize in winter; after replanting, fertilizers are applied only a month later.

Proper wintering is an important stage in caring for pachypodium. Watering is kept to a minimum, the flower is moved to a cool room with low air humidity. The soil is moistened carefully - only if it is completely dry and sagging.

Important stage: transplantation

Growing pachypodium in a pot at home is complicated by the need to replant it. Due to the sharp thorns and vulnerable roots, this can be difficult to do. Slow growth allows replanting every two to four years.

Replant in the spring, immediately after wintering. The container is taken a little larger than before, a third of the pot is filled with drainage. Expanded clay, pebbles, broken bricks are suitable. Some people use aquarium soil. Before use, the soil mixture is calcined in the oven or in a frying pan and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Thick gloves are used to protect hands, and the pachypodium trunk is wrapped in thick fabric. The roots are not freed from the old soil - the plant is moved into a container along with a lump of earth.

Pachypodium does not like to be disturbed. But if you know how to care for the pachypodium after transplantation, then it will adapt normally to the new container. For a while, the flower needs to be given a rest - do not rearrange it, do not touch it unnecessarily. Water very carefully, only to maintain light soil moisture. There is no need to feed the first month, but you can use Epin for quick recovery.

To protect yourself from unnecessary injuries, you can lightly file the spines of the pachypodium. The plant will not suffer from this, and the spines will become less sharp.

Trimming the top

Sooner or later it becomes necessary to prune the pachypodium (Madagascar palm). In favorable conditions, the plant can stretch almost to the ceiling. If you want to curb the growth of pachypodium, carefully trim the top of its head, which can then be rooted. The main stem will give off side shoots. Pruning is carried out as follows in four stages.

  1. The pachypodium stem is cut at the selected height with a sharp, sterile knife.
  2. The sections are immediately treated with charcoal powder. You can also sprinkle sulfur on top.
  3. Place the flower in moderate lighting in a room with dry air. Watering is temporarily limited. Lateral shoots will appear in about a month.
  4. The trimmed top is planted in a separate pot for rooting.

During the period of active growth, it is undesirable to rearrange or turn over the pachypodium. Judging by the reviews, it often reacts to unnecessary interventions by partially dropping leaves.

Reproduction methods

Pachypodium is propagated in two standard ways - seeds and cuttings. Both options are considered difficult - cuttings take root poorly, seedlings from seeds grow slowly.

Cuttings

Pachypodium propagation by cuttings is carried out in the spring, before the start of active growth. The procedure is combined with pruning - the resulting apical shoot is rooted. From branched plants you can take several cuttings at once. Rooting takes place in the following sequence.

  1. Using a sterile knife, carefully trim the crown. The optimal length of the cutting is about 15 cm. Immediately sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder.
  2. Prepare a container with slightly damp sand. It is advisable to calcinate the sand before use.
  3. Place the tip cutting in the sand. No need to cover it with anything!
  4. Keep in a well-lit, warm place.

Additionally, the cuttings can be treated with a root formation stimulator. There is no need to water heavily during the rooting stage. Excess moisture will cause the cuttings to rot.

Seeds

It is impossible to obtain pachypodium seeds at home. They are sold in specialized stores. Seeds lose their viability very quickly, so pay attention to the packaging date. Fresh seeds can germinate in a few days, old ones sit in the ground for up to a month. If shoots have not appeared after a month and a half, you have received old, non-germinating seeds. Seeds are sown in spring according to the following scheme in seven stages.

  1. Prepare the soil: mix equal amounts of sand and vermiculite.
  2. Low, wide containers are filled with substrate, leveled, and lightly watered.
  3. The seeds are treated with a fungicide and soaked in warm water for three hours. You can add a little growth stimulant.
  4. Place the seeds on the surface of the soil, the distance between the seeds is 3-4 cm. Sprinkle with a layer of the same substrate about 3-4 cm thick.
  5. Cover the container with a plastic bag and make small holes around the perimeter to prevent condensation from accumulating.
  6. Place in diffused sunlight and keep at a temperature of 25-30°C. Water with a spray bottle and do not allow the substrate to dry out completely. The greenhouse is ventilated often - up to four times a day.
  7. After the emergence of seedlings, the cover is removed, the humidity is reduced, and watered as the soil mixture dries slightly.

You can plant pachypodium in a couple of months, when the seedlings are strong enough. The soil must be calcined - pachypodium is very sensitive to fungal diseases.


Growing difficulties and diseases

The main disease of pachypodium is root and stem rot. They develop due to excessive watering, the use of a non-sterile soil mixture, and poor drainage. Treatment of rot consists of removing damaged areas, treating with fungicides and replanting in sterile soil. If the roots or base of the pachypodium stem are severely damaged, it is better to cut off and root the crown.

In addition to rot, other problems arise. Loss of decorativeness is often the result of a violation of the rules of care or an inappropriate maintenance regime. For convenience, the most common problems are collected in the table.

Table - Problems of growing pachypodium

Description of the problemPossible reason
Pachypodium leaf tips turn black- Drafts;
- watering with cold water;
- fungus;
- waterlogging of the soil
Growth stops in summer- Overheating of the pot in the sun
The leaves are turning yellow- Pests;
- prolonged drought;
- problem with roots
The trunk is bent, the crown is thinning- Lack of lighting
The leaves are falling- Prolonged drought;
- warmth during the rest period;
- cold in summer;
- natural process of falling of the lower leaves
Constrictions appear on the stem- Lack of moisture;
- heat
A jelly-like mass exudes from the stem- Prolonged exposure to high temperatures
“Wrinkles” appear on the stem- Damaged root system

In all these cases, it is enough to adjust the conditions of detention. Gradually, the decorativeness of the pachypodium will be restored.

Pests and methods of controlling them

Pests quite often attack pachypodium. The most common insects are spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects. Signs of damage and methods of pest control are described in the table.

Table - Main pests of pachypodium

InsectHow to recognizeMeasures
Spider mite- Light dots on the surface of the leaves;
- drying and falling of leaves;
- thin web on the underside of leaves
- Increased air humidity;
- spraying with the drug "Aktara"
Shchitovka- Brown plaques on stems and leaves;
- wilting of pachypodium;
- appearance of sticky drops
- Mechanical removal of insects;
- wiping the affected areas with alcohol;
- spraying with Inta-Vir and Actellik preparations
Mealybug- A whitish waxy coating appears in the axils of pachypodium leaves;
- growth retardation;
- sugary discharge with the addition of sooty fungus
- Cleaning from plaque with a soft brush dipped in soapy water;
- spraying with any insecticide - “Mospilan”, “Confidor”, “Fitoverm”

Knowing how to care for pachypodium and understanding what conditions the plant needs, you can grow a large “palm tree”. Pachypodium looks good in any room, but do not forget that it is poisonous. You can see more photos on the Internet.

A tree-like flower called pachypodium lamerei belongs to the Kutrovye family. It has a needle-like stem and narrow leaves. A distinctive feature of this plant is that it sheds its foliage during the dormant period. In nature, pachypodium (Madagascar palm) is found mainly in Australia, Madagascar and Africa.

Home care rules

Pachypodium loves good lighting. It prefers direct rays of the sun, which improve the appearance and condition of the foliage.

In summer and spring, it is recommended to take the pot with the plant outside. This will significantly increase its decorative properties. If the air temperature increases to 34-36 degrees, then the pachypodium needs to be provided with shade. Heating the soil too much can negatively affect the health of the root system. During the growing season, the trunk of a crop often becomes bent. During this period, the flower pot needs to be turned over from time to time in the direction of the light source.

The Madagascar palm tree in nature is never subject to sudden temperature changes. But the culture is able to withstand a long decrease in temperature to -10 degrees.

Pachypodium has a very massive above-ground part, so to plant it you need to select the most durable and resistant box possible. It is best to use ceramic pots. Ceramics will provide palm roots with reliable protection from overheating.

For compact and slow-growing varieties, you can choose wide containers and small bowls. It is necessary to make 3-4 holes in them, through which the excess reins will drain.

Diseases and pests

Madagascar cactus often suffers from mealybugs, spider mites and scale insects. To control pests, the above-ground part of the plant must be treated from time to time with a weak soap solution. After this, you can use insecticides.

Pachypodium (in Latin Pachypodium) is a typical representative of the Kutrov family (Latin Apocynaceae). Twenty-five species of Pachypodium are known to science. Belongs to the family of dicotyledonous flowering plants, whose representatives are widespread in temperate climates (mainly grasses) and tropical ones. Its name comes from the merger of two words of Greek origin: thick and leg, respectively “παχύ” and “ποδιυμ”.

Pachypodium can grow in cracks and crevices formed on the surface of bare, dry hills and low mountains. Interestingly, pachypodium grows in the countries of the African continent located south of the equator and on the island of Madagascar. Some specimens are found in Australia. The plant is so unpretentious to soil that it can grow on different types of soil. There are unique ones that prefer one type of soil for growth, but there are not many of them.

Not very dependent on external climatic conditions. In arid, desert places, the roots of pachypodium are so extended that they extract the necessary mineral components and moisture from the depths.

In more humid places, pachypodium can look like a giant tree, 5-8 meters in height. The diameter of the trunk at its widest part can reach one and a half meters. It is often found as a shrubby, oval-shaped species, 3 to 4 meters in height. Dwarfs are not uncommon among pachypodiums.

Absolutely all types of pachypodium are succulents, with a thick and fleshy trunk of gray or silvery color. Along the entire column of the trunk there are thorns that can break or wear out from the friction of the branches on the surface of the tree. Therefore, it is possible that “non-spiked” specimens can also be found in nature. Spikes are an important link in a complex chain of extracting moisture from droplets of dew or fog.

The main purpose of the thick, fleshy trunk is to store water along with nutrients for the upcoming drought. This is a necessary measure and is related to environmental conditions.

Some species even have thickened underground trunks. They are also called caudexes.

All representatives of the genus are famous for their very unusually beautiful flowers. The crown of the tree is crowned with narrow and thin leaves.

Due to Pachypodium's ability to exude a white milky sap when damaged, it is often confused with Euphorbia, better known as Euphorbia. This juice is poisonous. But it does not burn the skin upon contact with it.

How to care for pachypodium Growing conditions

1. Light intensity

Preference is given to bright sunlight, so that there is no hint of shadow. In certain circumstances it can also grow in partial shade. In search of more intense light radiation, it stretches out greatly and becomes unattractive.

To cultivate the plant at home, you must choose a room with windows facing south or southwest (southeast). In the summer, it is transferred to the air, to open space, but at the same time it is gradually accustomed to the sun.

With the onset of spring, when the intensity of solar radiation becomes stronger, it is necessary to extremely carefully open the access of rays to the surface of the succulent. He may get burned.

2. Ambient temperature

All types of pachypodium come from hot regions. Therefore, maintaining a high temperature is the most important factor. Temperatures above 30°C in summer are not a problem for him. In winter, if the temperature drops below +16°C, the plant may die (for the Pachypodium Lamera species this figure is + 8°C).

Therefore, in winter, there is no better place than on the windowsill next to the heating radiator. You also need to take into account that the plant does not tolerate drafts. Some types of succulent shed their leaves for the winter.

3. How to water

Regular watering is usually practiced from March to September, during the active growing season. Water for irrigation should be warm and well settled. An indicator that the plant is sufficiently moistened is a slightly wet soil surface.

Pachypodium does not tolerate severe waterlogging of the soil due to the threat of rotting of the root system and the lower part of the trunk. In winter, watering a crop that sheds its leaves is generally stopped for a period until the foliage returns again.

Other types of pachypodium that do not shed their leaves for the winter are watered very moderately to slightly moisten the top layer.

4. Humidity

Humidity is not a vital sign. There is no need to specially maintain it by spraying the plant with water. They can easily tolerate dry air. But it is still necessary to wipe the leaves from dust.

5. Feeding

Fertilizer for cacti is suitable for Pachypodium. Therefore, twice a month (spring-summer period) they fertilize with this fertilizer. If the pachypodium has just been transplanted, feeding is suspended for a period of 1 month. When applying fertilizers, it must be taken into account that the amount of the microelement nitrogen in the fertilizer mixture should be minimal.

An excess of nitrogen affects the condition of the root system, causing it to rot. The optimal ratio of the proportional content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer is 9:18:24. Organic matter is generally excluded from the list of fertilizers for plants.

Pachypodium transplantation

If the pachypodium has grown greatly, it is transplanted. This is not done often, once every 3 years. As for young plants, they are replanted annually and the delicate roots of the crop are treated very carefully.

How to transplant pachypodium, look at the video:

Only a moderately acidic substrate, composed of equal parts of coarse sand, leaf and turf soil, will allow you to easily grow any type of pachypodium at home. You can purchase substrate for cacti. It is advisable to add crushed brick and charcoal to the substrate. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the pot.

Pachypodium is also grown as a hydroponic crop.

Pachypodium from seeds

  • The main method of propagation of pachypodium is by seed. Seeds are germinated at a temperature not lower than 20°C.
  • You can take regular soil for planting, for cacti.
  • Before planting, the seeds should be thoroughly soaked, leaving them in warm water for about three hours.
  • Afterwards, the seeds are planted in the ground at a distance of 3-4 cm, planting depth up to 1 cm.
  • Water occasionally, but do not allow the soil substrate to dry out.
  • You can cover containers with seeds with bags to speed up germination, but you need to ventilate them every day. When shoots appear, the shelter is removed.
  • When 3-4 leaves appear, the plants are planted in separate containers, making sure to arrange a drainage layer at the bottom. This simple action will prevent putrefactive diseases.

The video will tell you about growing pachypodium from seeds:

There should be no difficulties with picking young plants if you are careful and do not damage the roots. The seedlings are taking root well. From seeds you can get a lot of high quality planting material.

Propagation of pachypodium by cuttings

If the lower part of the succulent is very rotten, you can try to grow the plant from a stem fragment. To do this, cut off the non-rotten top, dry the cut area with coal and plant it in a new, prepared according to all the rules, substrate. The trunk can be divided into two or three cuttings. To successfully root them, you need to follow simple steps:

  • The cut areas are washed well with water to wash off the released milky juice.
  • Next, the cuttings are lightly dried in air until a light dry crust forms. This is necessary so that the succulent does not rot when planted.
  • Planted in a light substrate, even sand. Moisten only occasionally so that the soil retains only a little moisture. The succulent will take root using internal reserves, and therefore excess moisture is not needed.
  • The temperature is maintained at room temperature, 24-25 °C.

Rooting usually takes a long time, so be patient. This is the case when a minimum of your participation is required. The plant will do everything on its own, the main thing is not to overdo it with watering.

Difficulties in growing and diseases

When rare, the succulent may shed its leaves. The plant does not like a sharp drop in temperature. Therefore, if the pachypodium is outdoors during the day, it should be brought indoors at night. Excessive watering at temperatures below 20°C (this applies to the winter period) can lead to leaf wilting and root rotting. This warning primarily applies to the species “short-stemmed pachypodium” due to the plant’s increased sensitivity to cold and waterlogging.

Drafts, especially cold ones, cause leaves to turn black, fall off, and stems to wrinkle and rot. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to move the plant to where there is a lot of light, warmth and no drafts. Watering should only be done with warm water. Sometimes rearranging the crop or simply turning it around its axis leads to blackening and drying out of young leaves.

Pachypodium pests

Damaged by scale insects and spider mites. It is also necessary to take precautions when working with the plant. The milky sap of the succulent is poisonous, although it does not irritate the skin if there are no wounds or cuts. After completing any work with the pachypodium, you must wash your hands!

Varieties of pachypodium with descriptions and photos

Pachypodium geayi

This is a tree that reaches 8 meters in height. On average, the height of this species is from 3 to 6 meters. It has a thick, prickly trunk and narrow, lightly pubescent leaves. Light gray young spines are colored black at the end.

The blossoming flowers are boiling white, which is diluted with yellow in the center area. It is also grown at home. Here it reaches a height of just over half a meter.

Pachypodium lamerei Pachypodium lamerei

Its homeland is the island of Madagascar. This species is also called the “Madagascar palm”. In those places where the island's topography is dominated by limestone rocks, you can find this tree growing up to 6 meters in height. It has a thick, erect, prickly trunk with a slight thickening at the bottom. Along the entire height you can see tubercles arranged in a spiral.

On each tubercle there are 3 spines of impressive size. Stems growing in the upper part of the tree are prone to lignification.

In its apical part there are rosettes with elongated, lanceolate, pubescent leaves of a deep green color. The leaves sit on petioles 3 to 5 centimeters long. They themselves are from 15 to 30 cm long and 4 to 10 cm wide and have a rounded end with a small point. There are 3 bare spines above each individual leaf.

When flowering, it produces creamy white flowers with a pinkish tint. They have a yellow throat. The diameter of the flower can reach 10-12 cm. The green fruits of Lamera have an elongated oval shape.

Pachypodium brevicaule

Found in central Madagascar. His ability for mimicry, that is, merging in color and shape with the surrounding elements of living nature, causes complete delight. Despite the fact that this species has a very juicy, prickly, tuber-shaped stem, reaching 60 cm in width, in the absence of leaves it can easily be confused with nearby stones. Its elongated flowers, with a diameter of 2 to 5 cm, are painted yellow.

Pachypodium densiflorum

Found in the arid regions of the island, it is distinguished by a fleshy, gray-green trunk, the maximum diameter of which is 30 cm. Only in the upper part of its trunk are there leaves. If there is not enough light in winter, it can drop all its leaves. It grows very slowly.

Only when it reaches a certain trunk diameter. It is also grown in pots. The maximum height of a crop grown at home is 90 cm.

Pachypodium saundersii or Lundi's Star

Lundi's star or Pachypodium Saunders Pachypodium saundersii home care

The gray-green trunk has a spherical shape, from which small shoots, up to 1.5 cm high, extend. There are small and few spines, up to 2.5 cm long. Wide lanceolate leaves. Characterized by abundant flowering. The flowers themselves are white with a pink stripe.

Pachypodium succulentum

The plant is native to the Cape Province of South Africa.
The trunk of the plant is clearly defined, reaching a height of 30-50 cm. The diameter of its thickened lower part reaches 15 cm. The trunk is deeply buried in the ground. The lateral branched shoots located above the ground are fleshy. Their length reaches 60-90 cm. On the branches there are spines in pairs, up to 2 cm long, and lanceolate-shaped pubescent leaves.

The maximum length of the leaves reaches 6 cm with a centimeter width. In summer, you can observe the flowering of pachypodium succulent. Only mature plants can delight you with pink, bell-shaped flowers with a bright red throat (their diameter is about 4 cm).

Pachypodium horombense

Pachypodium horombense photo

This is a small plant with a wide, smooth silver-green trunk with a thickening at the base. At the end of each branch there is a rosette of small, narrow grayish-green leaves. The branches appear early and extend straight from the base. During the flowering period, large yellow flowers appear on rather long stalks, collected in clusters.

Pachypodium horombeze grows very slowly, and in winter, when daylight hours become short, it sheds its leaves. With the seed propagation method, it begins to bloom almost in the 4th year after sowing.

This species is from Madagascar. On a short, gray-green trunk, which has a very wide thickening at the base, branches are located vertically. Small, narrow leaves emerge from rosettes located at the ends of these branches.

During flowering, you can enjoy lemon or pale yellow flowers. This period begins in mid-spring and lasts until mid-summer.

Southern Pachypodium Pachypodium meridionale

In its homeland, Madagascar, it grows 2-3 meters in height. If you grow it in a flower pot, you can get a specimen up to 1.2 m. This smooth-bore species has a silver-brown trunk. The color of its large and very fragrant flowers is soft pink on the inside, while on the outside the corolla of the flower has a pink-red hue.

Also in nature grow such species as Double-thorned Pachypodium, Pachypodium Lila, which is nicknamed the bottle tree for its visual similarity to this object, Pachypodium Namaquan, Pachypodium Rutenberg.