Do-it-yourself workbench: carpentry, locksmith, in the garage - drawings, manufacturing. How to make a convenient do-it-yourself workbench in the garage Do-it-yourself workbench drawings

Car repair is a difficult and troublesome task. To facilitate this work and create favorable conditions, you will definitely need to make a locksmith's table. Drawings and diagrams for this may be different, but the principle of how to build a convenient workbench for a garage with your own hands is one. The device should be compact and not take up much space.

It is best to build a prefabricated workbench so that it can be folded or stowed away. A simple structure can be made entirely of wood. This inexpensive material is fairly easy to find and very easy to process. But wooden products have a drawback - they tend to burn. To make a less dangerous and most reliable locksmith's workbench, you need to make a homemade metal structure. However, due to the simplicity and ease of construction, most motorists most often choose wood.

Necessary materials:

wooden bars;
various boards;
hinges;
nails;
screws.

First, you need to decide on a place for the construction of a locksmith's table. If the area is long enough, then it is better to install a workbench against the back wall opposite the gate. This will make it possible to do work while the car is in the garage. With this arrangement of the workbench, the side aisles will remain empty, which will be very convenient for car repairs. When the room has more free space in width, then the best installation option will be on the side. For Russian models on the left wall, and for foreign cars on the right, which will provide a safer entry and exit of the car from the garage.

Simple model

To do this, you need tools:

screwdriver or screwdriver;
ordinary drill or brace;
hand saw;
simple level;
small tape measure;
sharp ax;
hammer.

It is not difficult to design and install a homemade locksmith table in the garage. But first you need to determine the location, and then choose the material. For building a simple workbench, any planks and wooden blocks are perfect. This is the best way, where a rather modest knowledge at the school level is required. In addition, the cash costs will not be so great, since old bars and boards can be used to build such a table. Since wood is easy and quick to process, it will take very little time to complete the construction of a wooden workbench.

When the preparation is completed, and a suitable material is found, then you should first proceed with the construction of the frame. To do this, you need to make measurements of the future table in the garage at the place and cut 4 bars for the bed on them. Of these, two long ones will be located along the wall, and the short ones will be perpendicular. Next, you need to make the legs. The height of the workbench in the garage should be just below the waist for ideal working conditions.

After all the bars have been cut, they are connected into a frame. This is not difficult to do with simple nails or screws. Further, the entire structure is turned over on its legs and installed tightly pressed against the wall. Finally, the prepared boards are nailed on top of the nails and a simple wooden workbench is ready to go. Often, many motorists cover the top of the table with tin or sheet steel. This not only increases strength, but also increases safety in the event of a fire during various welding operations.

Folding workbench

Usually, in order to save money, garage buildings are made small in volume. In a small building with limited space, there is rarely enough free space to accommodate a locksmith's table. In the case when the length and width of the garage does not allow the installation of any device, a folding structure is used here. The advantage of this method is that in the normal assembled state, the entire table is removed and completely frees up space, but there is a drawback. To work on a folding workbench, you will often have to drive the car out of the garage, which is very inconvenient in car repairs.

The folding wooden workbench has the simplest and cheapest design. Therefore, such a construction will require a minimum of materials and time. At first you need to choose the best place in the garage. Then make the correct measurements with a tape measure and draw a simple drawing on them or sketch a diagram by hand. It will be easy to calculate the amount and consumption of materials using it. Any wooden blocks and old boards are perfect for this.

First, make the countertop... The prepared bars are marked with a tape measure and sawn off to size with a hand saw. Then they are folded in a rectangle in the form of a box and fastened together with nails. Next, boards of the same length are sawn, nailed to the bars, and the tabletop is considered done. Two hinges are immediately attached to it with screws and screwed to the garage wall at belt level.

You will get an interesting table, which in one position will hang on the wall, and in the other it will rise and be installed horizontally. To fix the tabletop in working position, you need to make legs. To do this, cut off two identical bars with a hand saw, which are screwed to the free corners of the bed on the hinges with the help of screws. In this position, each leg of the table, as well as the entire structure of the folding workbench, will also fold easily.

Homemade metal equipment

This will require materials:

metal corner;
cutting iron pipes;
tin or sheet steel;
bolts, screws, nuts;
hinges or hinges.

Every car enthusiast tries to make all devices in his garage reliable and safe to work with. Although a wooden locksmith's table is very easy and quick to assemble, this structure is not very strong. Often, additional new equipment is installed upstairs - this is an emery, a vice, a drilling machine. This requires a fairly strong and stable base. In this case, iron is used for construction, which is much stronger than wood. The metal structure of the workbench not only perfectly withstands any load, but is not afraid of fire at all.

To build a metal locksmith table, you need to prepare all the materials. This can be an iron corner or channel, pipe cuttings and sheet steel. During construction also you need to find a tool for working with metal:

welding machine;
electric grinder;
ordinary screwdriver;
powerful hammer;
spanners.

The metal workbench in the garage is installed taking into account the free space. It must be made in such a way that there is enough free space for car repairs. It is difficult to fit additional equipment on a narrow and too small locksmith's table. Therefore, it is advisable to make it the maximum size that will allow you to install not only a vice and emery, but also other devices. For example: a small drilling or lathe.

Build process

The construction of the workbench always starts from the top - the tabletop. From an iron corner or channel with a grinder, they saw off small pieces according to the size of the table. Then, on a flat floor, they are folded into a rectangle and connected by welding. Inside, between the sides, additional spacers are also installed, which will make the frame much stronger. The top of the countertop is usually made from pieces of tin or sheet steel. They are laid evenly on the frame of the future table and through holes are made around the perimeter for bolts or self-tapping screws with a drill.

When the tabletop is completely ready, they begin to build supports. For sturdy table legs, metal pipes are usually used. They are cut with a grinder at the level of the belt and attached by welding to the four corners of the made platform. So that the supports do not diverge in different directions under heavy load, they are fastened together with a profile corner or a channel. Then the table is turned over and pushed tightly against the most convenient wall of the garage. The workbench is ready and repairs can begin. But the construction does not end there, but continues to be equipped with additional equipment - a vice, emery and other devices.

How to deal with vibration and clutter

During hammer blows and machine tools, vibration occurs on the workbench. During this time, all tools and repair parts begin to move and fall off the table. You have to spend a lot of time searching, which is especially annoying for every car enthusiast. Coping with this drawback is very simple: along the edge of the entire perimeter of the tabletop, a small side from a corner or metal tape is attached by welding.

To always have order on the workbench, it is necessary to equip a place where all tools and remaining parts from repairs will be stored. The best way to remove unnecessary tools is to set up a shelving unit. It should be fixed to the wall just above the table. Usually the rack is made of a sheet of metal, shelves are installed on it. And it is also advisable to make hooks on which the tools will hang. It is very convenient when they are in front of your eyes and do not interfere with your work.

Often, drawers are made for storing car repair parts and various fasteners. They can also easily accommodate large tools that take up a lot of shelf space. For this, additional racks and guide rails from a metal corner are installed at the bottom of the table. The boxes themselves are made of sheet iron in the form of boxes with one handle. After installing the shelving and drawers, it will be possible to cope with the clutter that interferes with convenient work.

Folding option

There is a situation when the garage space does not allow making a good workbench. In this case, it is best to choose the foldable option, which does not need a lot of space. In the free space, you just need to weld a simple box in the form of a chest out of metal, and attach the wings to it on the hinges. As needed, it will always be easy to open them, which will significantly increase the area of the table.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to cut 12 identical corners with a grinder according to the size of the free space. Then, with the help of cooking, assemble the frame in the form of a cube and attach a flat sheet of tin or sheet steel to the top. You will get a small table that is perfect for small repairs. To make it longer, you need to make additional metal wings. Their dimensions must match on one side of the frame.

First, you need to cut off 4 corners with a grinder, which will correspond to the edges of the table. Then fold them into a square and hold them together using ordinary electric welding. A sheet of iron should be put on the resulting frame, and then the edges should be cut evenly. Next, drill through holes along the entire perimeter with a drill, insert bolts there and tighten with nuts. To make the wing go up and down easily, you need to attach 2 hinges.

With the help of a welding machine, this is done very simply. One end of the hinge loops connects to the wing and the other to the main frame. It is not difficult to fix the movable plane in a horizontal position. One has only to make two legs from metal pipes and attach them to the free corners of the wing on the hinges.

It often happens that the increased table area is sorely lacking. In this case, it will not be difficult to make another duplicate and attach it to the opposite side of the frame. In this case, you get a long desktop. If you attach an additional wing to the side, then such a structure fits perfectly in the corner of the garage. The advantage of a folding metal workbench lies in the fact that its configuration can always be changed at the request of every car enthusiast.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw a vice, and put tools in boxes.

I managed to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for myself.

Metal parts are blue, and wooden parts are yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The frame of the workbench will be welded from a profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. The shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick planks. From the 40x4 strip, guides will be made for attaching the side panels. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Dikim to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 am, so as not to stretch it for the whole day, we went to the metal warehouse.

The weather was slimy and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea jacket, apparently suffering from a hangover syndrome, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grimy, rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, as it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning, the following were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, for a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, fetid, sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for the homemade countertop was welded.

The base cross members for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, curly cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of how it looks:

In the meantime, scalded the toolbar brackets.

4mm strip pads reinforced the loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

The brackets add additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet of 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired sizes.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b] let's cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.

Made boxes from 15mm plywood. Collected on 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solidly, as I like.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The skids were fastened by welding. I learned to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. Moreover, it is holding securely so.

Now I'm thinking about different options for the facades.

At this point, the welding stage is over. Ahead carpentry and painting. Another small detail is locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller for advice on a good paint.
- Wah, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

I covered the tabletop with a 150x40 edged board. Fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. I used 60 self-tapping screws in total.

I slightly sanded the surface so that the sheet of metal lay tighter.

I talked about protecting a tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion by itself.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and restricts the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared the 1st group of fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow welding metal directly on the surface of the workbench. Boards all the same if they do not catch fire, they will be charred. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grate, which will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from thermal effects.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.

I covered the tabletop with 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to the wooden base by rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The table top is monumental.

I covered the extra openings in the workbench frame with 10mm plywood shields.
Pictured is a paint shop.

I registered permanent residents on the tabletop - a grinding machine and a vice. On a hefty countertop, they get lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on the countertop? I lean towards a rust converter that will create a durable protective film and which is easy to renew when needed. Do you have any better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy, height-adjustable chair?

P.S. I think those reading this thread will be interested - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded ones: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Follow the links to find the process of making everything presented.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin even layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. The film really turned out, as if covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries up again, hiding all the old damage.

From the large one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or one-piece furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I propose an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the table top).

Well, in fact, what is it for ...

Test passed

Class! You no longer have to huddle with a hand-held power tool on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.

I mounted a toolbar. Solid, 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equally hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Drawer fronts made from the remains of 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench has exceeded 200 kilograms. The area of the countertop is 1.65 square meters, the area of the toolbar is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost one cubic meter. The peculiarity of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with the TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and a panel allow convenient storage of almost all of my tools, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here's a homemade dream workbench.
I think my great-grandchildren will still work on it.

P.S. And after a little revision, you get an excellent dressing room)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put an end to the project, a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).

Over time, I will add wrenches, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Fortunately, there is plenty of room to turn around on two square meters. I made an awesome thing. Happy with aki elephant.

First, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last the same for me. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.

The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching the vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the table top with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It was better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.

The rest turned out to be a great thing. All tools are in one place, visible and always ready. The large countertop also has plenty of room to decompose.

You can purchase some of the items from this blog in our VKontakte group:

It is customary to call a carpenter's workbench a table of a special design with a solid and durable surface that allows various devices and mechanisms to be attached to it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted for rigidly attaching additional stationary equipment to it (a circular saw, for example, or a small router) used for processing such common materials as wood or metal.

Before making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as with some of the most popular design options.

Construction requirements

The working characteristics of the workbench table are:

Its height, adjusted to the height of the user, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without stooping, while maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
The dimensions of the tabletop, selected from considerations of the possibility of placing all the necessary tools on it, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the workpieces being processed.
A set of fixtures mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and clamps (screw vices).
Adaptation "under the arm" of its owner, who may be left-handed.

The most suitable for self-production is the option of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a tabletop installed on it. The length of such a structure usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80-100 cm).

Before starting work, you should decide on whether your workbench will be a stationary device, or whether it should be collapsible (collapsible).

Material selection

The most suitable material for the construction of a stationary workbench is wood, from which the supporting base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself, are made. For the manufacture of frames, a standard planed bar with a section of 100 × 70 mm is best suited. As auxiliary lintels, increasing the rigidity of the frame base, the same bar can be used, but with a slightly smaller section (100 × 50 mm, for example).

The workbench tabletop can be made of well-planed and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick.In addition, for its manufacture, a ready-made one-piece canvas (an old solid door, for example) or a workpiece cut to the size of the table from laminated chipboard with reliable and durable coated.

When choosing a material, preference should be given to hard types of wood, such as beech, oak or maple.

Assembling the structure

The manufacture of the workbench begins with the assembly of the frame base, on which the tabletop of the type you have chosen is subsequently installed. The order of the operations performed in this case is as follows:

First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, equipped in the form of two frame structures from a bar with a section of 100 × 70 mm.
Then these frames are connected in the upper part by two longitudinal beams, which together with the upper crossbars of the frames serve as supports for the table top. (Note that for reliable fastening of individual elements to each other in the design we are describing, it is best to use the classic "tongue-in-groove" connection with the obligatory gluing of the joint areas).
The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal bridges made of 100 × 50 mm timber, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (For their fastening, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the bar).
In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and spikes are first prepared in the blanks, after which the entire structure is assembled in one step (after applying glue to the joints).

During the assembly process, special attention must be paid to the next working moment, which determines the quality of all subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to monitor the compliance of the sizes of individual elements with the design data, as well as control the horizontal position of their installation using the building level.

In the case of making tabletops from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that no cracks are formed in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (by 1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the support base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.

When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws to the transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves must be prepared for these bars. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully sanded, and then treated with a protective solution (drying oil is usually used for this purpose). To fix it on the base, special metal corners can be used additionally.

With regard to the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vices, stops, etc.) on the workbench, we can say the following:

It is most convenient to place the working vice at the end of the tabletop, having prepared in advance a small recess for the fasteners at the installation site. On the back of the table, in the attachment area, a plywood gasket must be provided to protect the surface from damage.
In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop, fixing the workpiece in the working area and making it easier to work with it. On a wooden tabletop, it is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), adjustable in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fixing it.
Sometimes the stops are made by simply building up the countertop using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and closed on the back by a bounding bar.

In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench, consisting of a table top that folds to the wall and a special folding frame.

This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width of the support legs of the folding workbench does not exceed half the length of the tabletop (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

You also need to make sure that the top cross member on the supports is located below the board with the fastening of the hinge of the reclining table top. The material for the manufacture of a folding workbench table can be any monolithic workpiece made of chipboard.

The supporting frames of the structure are made of 100 × 40 millimeter bars, the articulation of which is made using pre-prepared metal plates, fixed to the uprights and lintels using bolts of the appropriate size.

Video

This video shows the process of building a joinery workbench:

Photo

Any welder or turner needs a workplace where they can work with metal: processing, sharpening, cutting, grinding. For these purposes, you need a locksmith workbench. The main difference between a locksmith's workbench and a carpentry workbench is the metal surface, while the carpentry workbench is made mainly of wood.

Basic nuances

Most home craftsmen prefer not to buy a workbench, but to make it with their own hands. Firstly, a do-it-yourself metal workbench will cost much less than a purchased one. Secondly, in the manufacture of a structure, it is possible to realize your ideas, and finally, if everything is done correctly, the quality of a homemade workbench will be several times better than that of a purchased one. With the help of simple metal manipulations, a small amount of tools, and skills in welding and cutting, you can get a pretty decent table.

During manufacturing, the workbench should be divided into components (for more convenient assembly) and take into account important nuances:

DIY workbench

First you need to decide where the workbench will be located and what you can fix it to. If the structure is angular, then the best option in this case is to start construction from the walls themselves, while they must be strong.

This option is good because design amendments can be made along the way, but if the master is inexperienced, then it is better to use another option. The optimal solution is to manufacture a workbench according to ready-made drawings. Of course, the cost of such an option is several times higher, but the dimensions and material have already been selected and indicated in the drawing, which greatly facilitates the work.

The base is made of a 35th corner with a wall thickness of 5 mm. A stable structure is obtained from such material. A 3 mm thick sheet is used as a working surface, 60 mm thick boards are present under the sheet, which provides even greater structural rigidity. The strapping of the table can be made from a thinner corner, since the load on it is minimal, and the boards can be used from 20 mm. As for the remaining shelves, plywood is used as a pallet, the thickness of which ranges from 10 to 20 mm. Drawers are made of 2 mm steel. For the manufacture of a locksmith workbench, the dimensions are shown below.

The height and width of the vise table can be changed and adjusted to suit your needs. You will also need the following materials:

Corner 35 mm, wall thickness at least 5 mm.
Corner 20 mm for the frame.
For the support legs, plates must be made from pieces of sheet steel to secure the workbench to the floor.
Plywood.
Bar 60 by 40.

After the frame is ready, it is necessary to clean the metal. Then, in order to avoid metal corrosion, the structure must be coated with a metal primer in 2 layers and then start painting. Wooden elements must also be primed and varnished if possible. Wood treated in this way will last a long time and will not absorb moisture and rot.

Once the boards are dry, they can be laid onto the finished structure. It is advisable to drill holes at the beginning and at the end of each board and attach them to the base using metal screws. The sheet, which will serve as a kind of shield against hammer blows, must be laid on the boards and fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws to the boards. Sheets of plywood must be laid on all shelves and secured in any way. The next step is making the boxes themselves out of sheet metal.

After the sheet of metal has been made according to the drawing, its sides should be bent and scalded. You should get the following construction:

Weld the drawer pull handle to the front. Before installation, you need to prime and paint in the same way as the frame itself. Insert the finished boxes into the workbench.

It should be noted that this workbench has no room for feet. This, of course, is not entirely convenient, but on the other hand, you can put much more tools and blanks. A vice, drilling machine and other equipment can be immediately attached to such a workbench.

Locksmith table

For those who have little workbench space at their disposal, an option that combines a small locksmith's table with workbench elements is suitable... On such a table, you can place the most necessary locksmith equipment. The construction looks like this:

You can make such a table in the workshop from a corner 60 x 60 or 70 x 70. The corners need to be welded together to get a kind of rectangle. You can put boards or plywood on the bottom of the table, but before that you need to drill holes in the lower parts of the corner to fix the table to the floor.

It is advisable to prime and paint the structure. If the table will stand in a dry, heated room, then to save money, you can not process the surface. For the countertop, a sheet with a thickness of 6-7 mm is required, under which boards should be laid to damp vibration from hammer blows and work with a power tool. The sheet is fastened with bolts or metal screws.

All sizes are purely individual and are selected by the master independently.

This design is good because it takes up little space, and even a novice locksmith can make it.

This version is made from a square tube and a corner. The frame is made of a square tube, and the corner will give the structure the necessary rigidity and is used for edging.

Tools for making a workbench:

Welding machine.
Grinder with cutting discs.
Squares.
Roulette.
Plywood, corner and square pipes.
Screws and drawer guides.
Self-tapping screws for metal and anchors.
Paint for wood and metal.
Steel sheet.

The structure must be welded so that the second part of the corners can be welded onto its upper surface, in which the boards under the tabletop will be located.

Now you can start making a frame from the corners for the tabletop. The corners must be cut into two pieces, 2000 mm long. You will also need two corners of 750 mm each. All this must be welded so that the boards under the table top lie in the grooves of the corner.

In order to weld the lathing for the tool, you will need two corners of 2000 mm and 4 corners of 950 mm each. To strengthen the frame, you should fix the corners with a length of 950 mm in the middle and two on the sides. The panel can be welded to the worktop as follows:

The next step will be to strengthen the structure with corners. This must be done as shown in the figure:

It's time to make plywood boxes. The process itself is simple: the plywood should be cut into blanks with a jigsaw, and then twisted with self-tapping screws. Drawers can be positioned on both sides of the table, and their number can be from two to three. It is necessary to attach guides to the boxes, but before that, two metal strips should be attached to each side, to which the guides will be attached.

After all the components are ready, you can proceed to laying the boards on the workbench. The board should be no thinner than 50 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If you cannot find long boards on the farm, then you can get by with short ones of 74 cm. Before laying, the boards should be treated with an "anticorrosive" to prolong their service life. The metal structure must be primed and painted. A steel sheet must be fixed on top of the boards.

At the very end, boxes are installed, and the tool stand is sheathed with plywood.

The last step is to ground the workbench to avoid electric shock. You can immediately attach a vice, a grinding machine and various devices to the tabletop. If desired, it is allowed to run cables for sockets and additional lighting, which will make the work even more comfortable.

As practice has shown, making a locksmith's workbench is a rather painstaking task that carries financial costs, but the craftsman will receive only positive emotions from working on such a table. It will be much easier to work thanks to the fact that all the tools will be at hand.

Most of the home craftsmen, which are the bulk of the subscribers and visitors of our site, to one degree or another have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace by arranging comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who look closely at home handicrafts, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which is becoming a very useful hobby for the family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of a homemade product and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently start arranging a home workbench for a workshop with their own hands.

Workshop workbench types

A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized work on the processing of various materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you will have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. By the type of materials to be processed, workbenches are subdivided into:

carpentry;
locksmiths;
combined.

Based on the design features, the following types are added to them:

universal;
folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with a different list of functions, and a distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you convert your experience as a home craftsman into banknotes outside your apartment or yard of your house, then you can either choose a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable and here three options are possible:

carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of locksmith operations;
locksmith's workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
combined workbench.

Immediately, we note that the last option is not the best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and locksmith's types of work in full, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore, the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.

Making a simple garage workbench with your own hands

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanents.

It is good if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform work on metal or wood, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench, we will take wooden blocks 40x80 and cut 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower lintels 500 mm long. For the 2 upper lintels of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.

It will also go for the top strapping of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm at the bottom and 1600 mm at the top. And at the back we use a 40x150x1600 edged board, but we will need all the long blanks later.

If you have a tool for making finger joints, use it as we did.

If not, make them by hand or you can butt-join the parts using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side racks as shown in the photo below.

After that, you can start assembling the entire bed.

The central lintel inside the bed, made of the same 40x80 bar, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, serves as a stop for two nightstands with drawers from old desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.

For the work surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated fiberboard surface. We screwed a board to the leading edge on metal plates, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for attaching a small locksmith vice with a clamp.

We fastened the working surface to the bed on metal corners and received a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.

Manufacturing of a carpentry workbench with revision for locksmith work

If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a joiner's workbench and make some structural modifications for locksmith operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes until the present day. Its basis is a massive bed on spike joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often stacked) table top with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vise-clamps for fastening workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make wooden doors yourself, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and the width at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. My grandfather's workbench - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he needed 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.

The dimensions of the school joinery workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you, and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But alternative options can also be considered.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different materials for the worktop, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and different vice mechanisms. Now, in order:

1. The frame is made of dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then the connection of its elements can be done in any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The tabletop can be made from ready-made glued wood panels sold in most building supermarkets, or glued from planed blocks with a thickness of at least 50 mm by yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to glue the ends of it with wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.

3. For fixing the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the workbench table top is built up with bars of the appropriate size. The most popular are the following clamping devices:

- carpentry lead screw with two guides of Czech production Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of about 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish vice for joinery Piher, 150 mm, cost approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make some kind of their own semblance, using a hairpin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which of course will not transfer such efforts as a vice, but will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its low cost;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same pins, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 such clamps on one vice.

4. The holes for the stop pegs are made in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them parallel to each other over the entire surface of the countertop for confident fixing of oversized products.

5. Fasten the tabletop of the workbench to the base on strong metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, fix it to the floor with their help.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench variant described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for fixtures for performing locksmith work on such a workbench.

The simplest of them is to make a plate of steel with a thickness of 3 - 5 mm with a frame made of a steel corner, stored separately from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered onto the tabletop if necessary.
The main attribute of a locksmith's workbench is a locksmith's vice. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require going through the workbench top.

You can, of course, fit the holes for the stops for the vise fasteners, but with a thick pad, you can do without this. Also interesting is the option of attaching the bench vise directly to the table top of the joiner's workbench using a transitional support bar and a powerful clamp.

And at the same time, the overlay should not be made over the entire area of the workbench. There are a lot of options, the choice is yours.

Modification of the locksmith's workbench for carpentry work

Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but we will tell you about simple ways of adapting it for carpentry work, especially since it is not at all difficult. For the full use of your locksmith's workbench as a carpenter's, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vice, and make several simple devices.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. From the first picture below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the pins (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we will get a simple and reliable device for attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden lining fixed with recessed clamps, with the entire set of workpiece fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise to its thickness, which can be compensated for by the appropriate height with a ladder at the workbench.

There is nothing to say about the backgauge, it just serves as a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make a planing board with a universal stop shown in the second figure. Increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the bar to be processed) and screwing the bar on the bottom side to stop against the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns a locksmith's workbench into a carpentry workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a rather powerful option for securing the workpiece also allows you to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is also to screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.

The method of installing the last two planers on the workbench is shown in the diagram:

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